Before (Cirrus 820)
After (Lance 830)
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics, check out the travel/adventure/personal memoir I wrote:
Roaming About
A Life Less Ordinary
Month: May 2022
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.
For most of last month, Mark, Maya, and I happily kept traveling and living throughout Baja California Sur and Baja California (Norte) in Mexico, slowly making our way back “home.” After 3.5 months south of the border, we returned to the United States on April 26th, 2022, and spent about a week in Southern California. We have covered thousands of miles since then.
Entering the state of Baja California, the northern half of the peninsula
Rows of bumps in corners to slow us down
Topes in towns are often unmarked, blended in, or fake
Back to the border – and border wall – in Tecate. The line wasn’t too long and the crossing itself was uneventful.
Back to highways and complicated road infrastructure!
And, super expensive fuel in California
That’s why we filled up in Mexico at US$4/gallon before crossing the border
Once we reached the historic town of Loreto by the end of March, we regretfully felt our time on the Baja peninsula was diminishing, as we would start making our way back to the US from there – where to, we didn’t know yet.
Camped along the dirt road to San Basilio after a failed attempt to reach the beach ten miles in
Back in Mulege, camped at our favorite spot south of the river, except, conditions change…. The humid climate (wet sand and salty air) chased us inland a bit
Our second spot to camp for a couple of nights, north of the river. This is where Katherine and Brandon “found” us
Little did we know that a couple of weeks later, a chance encounter with Katherine and Brandon in Mulege, sent us south again, back to Loreto Bay/Nopolo. Our new friends had invited us for a few days of splurging at their condo (showers, laundry, great company, a pool), which was followed by another handful of days of beach camping near town.
View from the condo’s balcony
Dinner at our friends’ condo in Loreto Bay/Nopolo
Fabulous food, drinks, and company
T&T parked near the condo building of our friends
Clean and beautiful Nopolo neighborhood
Narrow alleys in Nopolo village
Camped on the airport beach in Loreto for five nights, where I dealt with a dreadful flu
On April 22nd, we did – finally – start our long journey north and pretty much drove every day for the remainder of the month, slowly covering the 850 miles from Loreto to Julian, California, via San Diego. If you think our gas price for this jaunt in Baja was high, wait until the expense report for May comes out…
Driving north again…
…past the pretty Bahia Concepcion beaches, without stopping this time
Mission de San Ignacio
Interior of the San Ignacio Mission
Restaurant along the square in San Ignacio
Camped for the night along the shady square
We finished all the food in our fridge before crossing the border, so an extensive shopping spree was in order. Fortunately, our friend Janis made dinner in San Diego on our first evening back in the US. We had a nice time with her and her husband Paul.
One night in Mission Hills – photo taken by Janis Heppell
Meeting up with Janis and Paul in San Diego
In Baja, it was still affordable to go out for dinner, so we did this a few times, to celebrate our postponed combined birthdays at the amazing restaurant Mi Loreto and to eat fish and shrimp tacos in San Ignacio. After taking Katherine and Brandon on the incredible Mesquite Canyon hike, they were extremely generous by treating us to a delicious seafood lunch on the drive home.
Birthday dinner out at Mi Loreto
View of the Mission from Mi Loreto
Swimming through Mesquite Canyon
Seafood lunch at the “clam shack” on the beach – thank you, Brandon and Katherine
Restaurant where we had fish and shrimp tacos and a Jamaica (hibiscus) juice for me
Our last meal out in Mexico at Victor’s
Mark and I swore we would not eat out – or do take-out – anymore once we left Mexico, as inflation is hurting us, but we happily bought our friend Amy a pho on our second night in San Diego and were treated to pizza by our friend Diana, once settled for a few days on her beautiful and peaceful property in Julian, CA.
Stocking up on fresh ratone pastries in Loreto before leaving the area and the peninsula
Diana taking a selfie by the fire with Doug, Mark, and me in it
We paid for six nights at campgrounds in April – in Loreto, Playa La Perla (Bahia Concepcion), and near Ensenada on our last night in Mexico, which happened to be the least attractive and priciest stay of the bunch.
We returned to Rivera del Mar RV Park in Loreto and tried to sell our electric bikes, unsuccessfully.
Home for three nights – Playa La Perla along Bahia Concepcion
Sunrise over Bahia Concepcion
Pancake breakfast at the beach
Finally a spot to hang our hammock up again!
Walking south from La Perla
Homemade gnocchi dinner with new friends Mary and Ted
Our last night in Baja was spent at Mi Refugio in Ensenada; not our favorite
The rest of the month, we boondocked (camping without facilities) in nature for free.
Camped in an arroyo for one night after visiting Mission San Javier
Maya waits to go for a walk
Cactus in bloom
One of our last nights in Baja, surrounded by cacti in Catavina
And we finally bought a souvenir – a handmade Mexican blanket. We’d been keeping an eye out for one and gauging prices at a few markets to get a feel for what they were worth. Eventually, after three months on the peninsula, we bought one from a beach vendor at a very fair price.
Our Mexican blanket, which will grace one of our dinette cushions one of these months
Parked near Mission San Javier
Mission San Javier near Loreto
Looking out through a door in the church
Surroundings of the mission
Now that we are back in the US and expect to spend thousands of dollars on camper preparations, parts, and fuel, we have to cut down on expenses in other categories. The coming months, we will avoid eating and drinking out, buying alcohol, and paying for laundry. We are fortunate to have friends in the Pacific Northwest, who will happily host us and provide services, like a level driveway, tools, water, electricity, a shower, and laundry facilities. Let the camper work and another transition begin!
Changing gears again the coming months
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
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A hike in Mesquite Canyon, located about an hour south of Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico, was on the agenda last year, especially after seeing photos about it on our friends Sandie and Karsten’s blog. They had told us how to get there, but our mistake was not writing down the instructions and neglecting to search for the approach on Google Map’s satellite image.
Hiking in the heat to find the trail last year – in vain
We found the correct entrance road in the spring of 2021, drove through the gravel pit area, parked, and explored two approaches on foot with Maya. One brought us to a gate, which we didn’t think allowed public access (it did) and the other gravel path brought us into the mountains after a couple of hot and rocky miles, before we believed this wasn’t right.
The gate was closed last year, so we didn’t proceed. The trail starts two miles past this point.
It was late afternoon by the time we returned to Zesty, so we spent the night in the peaceful environs of a gravel pit. Bummed, we gave up on this alleged incredible canyon hike. When we saw Sandie and Karsten again, they mentioned the trail started two miles past the gate.
Camped with Zesty near the gravel pit, last year
Needless to say, this hike in Mesquite Canyon was high on the list during our recent return trip to Baja California Sur. This time, we did enough research and were determined to find the trail. Except, it was Sunday and the access road to the canyon was blocked off. Despair and disappointment arrived.
Oh no, the access road is blocked!
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