Hiking – Page 2 – Roaming About

Category: Hiking (page 2 of 13)

Cusco, the Sacred Valley & Machu Picchu in Peru – With Visitors

Note: For more info and photos of Cusco and the Sacre d Valley, which Mark and I visited before, check out this post and this one.

(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)

Cusco in Peru

Cusco & the Sacred Valley

Cusco

After our two-week adventure in Arequipa and Colca Canyon, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the tourist mecca of Cusco. We slept the first night for free on the edge of town to walk to the grocery store and stock up, and to have dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Teryaki.

Shrimp poke bowl at Teryaki

The following morning, the three of us walked to and through the two areas we had booked Airbnbs, to get a feel for them. We stumbled across a “market” along a busy street, where locals were selling puppies. It put a bad taste in our mouths. There are so many stray dogs that need help and a good home, yet, just like in the western world, people would rather buy animals than rescue them.

Locals selling puppies

Puppies crammed in crates

More puppies being sold

After our reconnaissance, we relocated higher up, to the Quinta Lala campground, where we met our American friends Heather and Rodney. The idea was to relax for one week, catch up on much needed sleep, and prepare for the visit of my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, on November 20^th. Of course, that didn’t happen.

Working on the roof at Quinta Lala

Parked next to Jeff and Sheri’s truck camper, before they arrived

Mark was hired by our friends to install their new Starlink system and did his freelance job other times and I received translation project after translation project, leaving little time for fun and rest. Whenever we had a moment, we enjoyed the company of Heather and Rodney.

Homecooked dinner with Rodney and Heather at Quinta Lala

They had brought parts for us from the US, among which a new laptop, so we focused on fixing and installing a few things in – and on – Bella and getting Mark’s computer ready for use. It was all time consuming.

Our friends Rodney and Heather brought a bunch of gear back from the US for us

We needed a new 12V vacuum cleaner (our old one broke) to dry out our ceiling.

We also had to make sure Maya received enough exercise, did laundry by hand to save some money, met up with a Canadian friend (tour guide and climber Marie, who surprised us with maple syrup and maple butter), cleaned the interior of the car and camper, and walked into town a couple of times, taking a cab back up the hill. All the while, we needed to consider daily downpours, as the rainy season in Peru had started in earnest.

Treats from Quebec, Canada, brought by our friend Marie

Rodney takes a break near the top of the steps

Aqueduct in Cusco

Climbing steps in San Blas

Cute bars, restaurants, and decorations in San Blas

Another mural in Cusco’s historic center

San Blas church and square

Arequipa and Colca Canyon – Exploring Southern Peru in a Truck Camper

January 8, 2024 / Liesbet / 22 Comments

After our crazy, stressful, and unexpected three-day “border run” to Bolivia, hoping to receive sixty extra days as a tourist in Peru (and eventually succeeding), Mark and I needed a quiet place to recover. Our next destination was Arequipa, but we were not in a rush.

Southern Peru

Visited Sites Southern Peru

First, we drove the three hours from the Kasani border to Puno, where we stocked up on groceries. Then, we continued for another two hours to a peaceful, remote lake, Laguna Sara Cocha, to rest and catch up on internet chores. Because the elevation was still quite high, at 13,800ft (4,200m), the nights were cold, so we couldn’t linger too long.

Welcome to Puno

Driving by Puno and its Lake Titicaca

Laguna Sara Cocha

Laguna Sara Cocha

When our trio arrived at the lake, we were happy to find a pretty, free camping spot, surrounded by alpacas and llamas. Perfect!

Camped for a couple of nights by Laguna Sara Cocha

Greeted by alpacas

This is llama and alpaca territory

Curious llamas and alpacas

Flamingos live at high elevations as well!

Imagine our surprise, when at 6am the next morning, a Sunday, we woke up to the sound of hundreds of cars driving by. If we wouldn’t know any better, we’d think we were parked next to a gravel highway! We were baffled by the commotion and brainstormed reasons as to why traffic had picked up so much. Did the inhabitants of the little hamlet nearby all go to church – in their own cars – in Puno? Nope. The cars were driving in the opposite direction, towards no-man’s land. A massive party in the middle of nowhere?

When vehicles surrounded Thirsty Bella and people got comfortable on blankets and in chairs near us, I inquired. Apparently, the annual car rally around the lake took place that day and spectators drove in early to pick good “podium seats”! Unbelievable. Our peace and rest would have to wait until the following day.

Camped close to the action

A car race in session

We embraced this unusual event and reveled in the families having fun on a Sunday morning and afternoon. By the end of the day, only garbage remained.

Laguna de Salinas

Two Highlights in Peru: Pallcoyo Colored Mountains and the Reed Islands of Uros in Titicaca Lake

November 21, 2023 / Liesbet / 34 Comments

After we departed the Sacred Valley and Cusco, we had less than two weeks left in Peru, so we headed towards the border with Bolivia, slowly. The idea was to obtain another 60 days or more to meet up with family from Belgium and friends from Canada back in Cusco, the end of November.

Laguna de Huacarpay

Our first night heading east was spent along a small and peaceful lake, enjoyed by local families that Sunday afternoon. The night was relatively quiet, until we were awakened by knocks on the side of the camper at 5am. It was a Peruvian man asking us if anyone else had been camped here in a tent last night. Not that we knew, but why was that important enough to wake up two gringos? We will never know.

A popular campsite for dogs during the weekend

Laguna Huacarpay

Pallcoyo Colored Mountains

Then, we headed to what would become our favorite destination in this country to date. It was a tough one to get to. From the moment we turned off the main road and onto the one-lane side track, we had to back up for three tour vans. We figured in the afternoon, it would be quieter; hence our late start… These were tourists heading back to Cusco at 3pm, after two hours of driving down the mountain.

Luckily, we didn’t encounter anyone else on our way up this narrow, tricky road. After an hour of exercising steel nerves and concentration, we pulled over along the river. Our only company some locals passing by on motorcycles or cars, but mostly a shepherd and her flock of sheep, llamas, and alpacas.

Narrow road driving up the mountain

Camped among sheep, llamas, and alpacas

Curious llama

Our riverside camping spot for a few nights

Maya loves splashing in the water

The mountain river next to our campsite

The following day had one purpose: watch the traffic patterns on this tight, gravel road (to use that information for our drive to the top – and back down) and figure out if we would take the camper up or just the truck (leaving our home behind for half a day again). Or, to hitch a ride or pay our way with a tour van, which would mean less flexibility and a bigger crowd.

After deciding to take our entire truck camper up, we left at 6:30am to arrive at Pallcoyo Mountain, also called Three Colored Mountains or Three Rainbow Mountains, an hour later. I was impressed by the scenery along the way. It was as if we were driving through a nature documentary in the Andes Mountains (we were!) – stunning terraces, bucolic scenes like a kid tending to a donkey and a Quechua woman carrying a lamb in a bag on her back that jumped out as we passed, and spectacular yet barren mountain sides at this high elevation.

Leaving with the first light

Making our way up the mountain, along terraced fields

Before we reach the real Colored Mountains

Signing in and paying our entrance fees

Thirsty Bella among colorful mountains

The Sacred Valley in Peru – As Overlanders

November 6, 2023 / Liesbet / 29 Comments

After two weeks in Cusco, doing camper projects, running errands, being sick, and exploring the historic center, our plans turned a bit tricky. My cousin and her husband, perfect guests who visited us frequently when we sailed in the tropics, had booked plane tickets to join us in the Cusco area for two weeks, towards the end of November, following a two-week bus tour through Southern Peru. Nothing tricky about that, except for the fact that our immigration stamps expired the end of October…

Based on accounts from other overlanders, we believed we had a good chance to obtain another sixty days in Peru, at the border with Bolivia; an ordeal we’d have to figure out later and something I worried about for over a month. It was mid-October now and we had two weeks left in the country.

We expected to visit the Sacred Valley with my family, but what if we wouldn’t be allowed back into Peru? Were we willing to miss out on this country’s highlights, like Machu Picchu, Arequipa, and the villages and archeological sites in the Valle Segrado?

Mark and I opted for an in-between solution: we skipped famous Machu Picchu (expensive and a hassle to get to) – for now – and bought a two-day tourist ticket for 70 soles/$20 each to visit the highlights of the Sacred Valley. This would be a different way of traveling for us, who usually take it slowly, camping wherever it looks attractive. We had two days to explore five sites and two historic villages!

Location Sacred Valley in Peru

Highlights of the Sacred Valley

Pisac archeological site

From the Cusco campground, we headed uphill, past the trio of ruins we’d checked out previously, via a viewpoint that offered potable water from a spigot, to a pull-out along a quiet road for the night. The following morning, we descended into the valley and spotted the famous terraced hills of Pisac.

Getting potable water at a viewpoint

The terraces of Pisac, seen from the viewpoint

Incredible stonework and paths!

Traveling with a camper makes it easy to leave our dog behind, in a cool and shady environment with plenty of water. Mark and I braved the long climb to the citadel, breathing heavily in the thin air and taking many breaks.

The Pisac archeological site is a large Incan complex of agricultural terraces, residences, guard posts, watchtowers, and a ceremonial center along a mountain ridge above the town of the same name. It was built around 1440.

Fort-like structure when entering Pisac

Buildings at a lower level

View into the valley and over the switchback road to the ruins

Structures higher on the hill, a serious climb away

Meandering through the old fort

Little is known about the site’s actual purpose. Researchers believe that old Pisac defended the southern entrance to the Sacred Valley and was an observatory and religious site.

Famous terraces of Pisac

Walking over the top terrace to get to another side of the grounds

Well-maintained Inca wall

The terraces and valley seen from the other side

Climbing up and among the buildings of the upper part of the site

Remnants of the old Inca village of Pisac

The best way to explore this destination is by taking a taxi or minibus to the entrance, climbing the hill, and then following a path down to Pisac town. Since we had our vehicle with us, we only visited the top part of this impressive site.

A llama and an alpaca grazing in the old walls

Trying to leave this touristy site that had gotten much busier by the time we finished exploring

Quechua mother and child on our way down the mountain

Pisac town

Overlanding in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru – Rough Roads and Splendid Scenery

September 20, 2023 / Liesbet / 37 Comments

From the sleepy fishing village of Tortugas, Mark, Maya, and I headed inland again, back to the Andes Mountains. After traveling around Northern Peru for three weeks in our truck camper Thirsty Bella, our first impressions of the country had not been positive. Fellow overlanders kept telling us “It would get better further south.” We were both looking forward to “better,” “prettier,” and, above all, “quieter.”

Location Cordillera Blanca in Peru

Close-up Cordillera Blanca in Peru

Map of our sights in the Cordillera Blanca

Huaraz

We drove from sea level to 14,000ft (4,200m) in one day, so, as you can imagine, the scenery changed drastically as we climbed from littered roads and uninspiring plots of dirt to green fields, pine trees, and, above the tree line, views of the impressive snowy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Driving into the Andes

View of the Cordillera Blanca

Snowy tops in the distance

Happy for the blue skies at this altitude!

Quechua woman along the road

On our first night in the hectic town of Huaraz, we decided to camp at its viewpoint (11,000ft or 3,350m) for a more peaceful experience. We failed to learn that the road up was narrow, rocky, and stressful. I can’t say the view was that special, but we did, at least and at last and despite a vague headache, have a quiet night – after trying to level up a bit, getting dressed for and dealing with a police visit at 11pm, and meeting expat and missionary Larry, who thought it was a good idea to scream “Good morning, Liesbet and Mark” on his 5am run the following day.

Cross at the mirador (viewpoint)

View from above Huaraz

Huaraz by night

Huaraz by day

First Impressions of Northern Peru – Noise, Nature, and Necropoli

August 29, 2023 / Liesbet / 32 Comments

Peru has been a struggle for Mark, Maya, and me, but we hope to find our groove one of these days. Not that anything bad happened. Just that things have been difficult – finding internet, being able to sleep at night due to noise, witnessing all the trash, not connecting with the locals, weird vibes, the bad quality of food in stores, the higher cost of living – and fuel…

Jaen

The border crossing from Ecuador into Northern Peru in La Balsa was busier than usual on a Sunday, but everything went relatively smoothly and was wrapped up within two hours. As always, the TIP (Temporary Import Permit) for the vehicle took the longest to obtain. Our biggest disappointment happened at immigration. Mark and I requested a “visa” for six months, but the officer was only able/allowed/willing to give us three. Peru is a huge country to explore within three months by camper.

At the Peruvian land border

Waiting in line to get access into the country

Bye, bye Ecuador

From the moment we touched Peruvian soil, the roads turned into smooth pavement and offered a welcome change. People were drying coffee beans alongside, which cut the width of usable surface in half, but traffic was light. We took in the sights and pushed all the way to Jaen, the first city. We found a decent-looking camping spot by a river and needed the local currency (soles), a Peruvian SIM card and data plan for internet, and food.

Plenty of space in between, as long as nobody comes from the other side…

Drying coffee beans

We were surprised to see rice paddies, but the border was at a low elevation with a temperature of 90 degrees F.

Volcanos and Waterfalls in Central Ecuador – Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Quilotoa, and Baños

August 4, 2023 / Liesbet / 48 Comments

After Mark, Maya, and I finished our car projects and left the comfortable and safe haven of friend Graham’s driveway in Ibarra, we only had four weeks left to explore the central and southern part of Ecuador, before our three-month visas expired. We hadn’t gotten very far yet, after two months!

Our visited sites in Central Ecuador

Cotopaxi Volcano

We drove a bunch to pick up our trail from a month prior, south of Quito, the country’s capital. Our first stop was the impressive Cotopaxi volcano, which is often hiding in the frequent clouds at this altitude.

Cloudy arrival at our camp spot

Thanks to our free iOverlander app, we found a peaceful wild camping spot near the national park. We failed to see the mountain, but we persevered, spending two nights at 12,000ft (3,650m) without internet, walking Maya in the paramo, meeting wild horses, running our heater at night, and waiting for a glimpse.

Pretty horse

More wild horses

Morning walk with Maya

Small waterfall during our explorations

On our second evening, after the sun set, we spotted Cotopaxi’s snowy top. The light was not ideal for optimal viewing or photography. We crossed our fingers for a clear morning the following day as, unfortunately, we couldn’t stay longer due to the lack of cell service.

Waiting for a glimpse of Cotopaxi’s top

The volcano appeared in the last light of the day.

And, look what we woke up to on day three! Time for photo shoots – and to drive into the national park for an up-close view and feel of Cotopaxi!

Early morning glimpse of Cotopaxi

A joyful walk

The moment to take selfies

The same small waterfall, now with the volcano in the background

Another family portrait attempt

Since dogs are technically not allowed in Ecuadorian national parks (which are free), Maya stayed in the car and camper during our visit. We first drove to a small lake with decent views.

National Park entrance

Hand-drawn map of the park

Driving into the National Park

Getting closer to the active volcano

Not too much snow left

A detour to the lake

A mellow day

Then, our heavy vehicle managed to climb the volcano itself, to the parking lot at 15,000ft (4,570m), from where visitors can ascend the mountain to a glacier and refugio (shelter/restaurant). It is possible to climb further to the top with a guide. As you can imagine, the air was thin here and putting one foot in front of the other laborious. Mark made it “up there,” but I had to turn around when dizziness and a serious headache threatened.

Slowly climbing to 15,000ft with Thirsty Bella

Approaching the road up Cotopaxi

Ready to ascend the mountain on foot to the “refugio” (building up ahead)

View from the climb up, before I turned around

When we drove back down the volcano around 11am, it was already shrouded in clouds again.

Quilotoa Lagoon

Quilotoa has been a highlight for many visitors to Ecuador, so we had to check it out. The road to the small town with the same name was paved and pretty, but realizing that hundreds of homeless, starving dogs are being dumped and now linger along this “highway” was heart-breaking.

Stray dog in the gutter

Waiting for food

I really hope someone picks a dog up once in a while

Another pretty, abandoned dog

Not a lot of indigenous people have cars.

Mindo, Pululahua, and Ibarra in Ecuador – Hiking in the Jungle, Camping in a Crater, and Being Stationary for Three Weeks

July 21, 2023 / Liesbet / 44 Comments

After our time in Quito, Mark, Maya, and I had less than a week left, before Mark would fly out of Ecuador for seventeen days.

June stops in Northern Ecuador

We contemplated traveling to Amazonia/El Oriente, the jungle in the eastern part of the country, but soon realized we’d need more time for that massive detour and unique experience. So, we headed west, to Mindo.

Mindo

Mindo is a popular destination for travelers alike, especially backpackers and families. While the town is nothing special, activities in nature abound. From tubing to hiking; from cable cart riding to ziplining. We found a decent place to camp for free near the center of town, which allowed us to splurge at some of the western-style restaurants.

We also moved to a riverside spot for one night, to be able to sleep better, but since there was no cell signal, we couldn’t stay long.

This school group decided to pose in front of Thirsty Bella for their photo.

Our camping spot was a popular place to launch tubing adventures from.

Our main reason to come this way was a hike in the jungle among a plethora of waterfalls. Mindo is at a much lower elevation than we have been used to in Ecuador. At only 4,000ft (1,200m) above sea level, the climate turned hot and humid, yet still very rainy. It’s the perfect place to grow mold and we can’t quite see the attraction of living there. Is that why so many properties are for sale?

In tourist towns, everything is more expensive. The usual way to reach the park with the waterfalls is via two cable carts, in which Maya was allowed. The lower one was pricey; the second one was included in the waterfall trail walking fee of $5 a person. Since the entrance to the park is quite the hike up and our camper couldn’t fit over the bridge to get there, we paid for a single cab ride.

Waterfalls, Lakes, and Hot Springs in Northern Ecuador

June 19, 2023 / Liesbet / 41 Comments

On May 4^th (an easy one to remember), Mark, Maya, and I crossed the border from Colombia into Ecuador; a non-event that took about two hours and was much more relaxed than any Central American crossing we remember from 2006. Our visa stamp allows us to stay for 90 days.

Welcome to Ecuador!

Getting our entry stamp was easy and fast; the temporary car importation paperwork took about an hour to retrieve.

Northern Ecuador Sights

Tulcán

Our first stop – after shopping for groceries and being pleasantly surprised to see dumpsters everywhere – was the topiary garden of the Tulcán cemetery. That first day in Ecuador, we also managed to get a SIM card and buy data and non-sweet bread, before settling at a great little spot by a pond.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Our first stop in Ecuador

Cool designs

It was a joy to walk around in the garden

The garden had a lot of alleyways

Enjoying the “plant statues”

San Gabriel

Laguna El Salado

If you’ve been reading my previous blog posts, it won’t come as a surprise that Colombia wore us out. Despite being enamored by its cute towns, beautiful scenery, and extremely friendly (and curious) people, the country is still rough around the edges and quite busy and loud. So when we stumbled across our first free boondocking (wild camping) spot and discovered it was quiet and attractive, we stayed for almost a week, catching up on sleep, work, and walks with Maya.

Camped by Laguna El Salado, which does not have salt water

Nice weather and quiet days

In Ecuador, people are curious to learn more about our lifestyle as well.

El Centro

Coming from Colombia, which has heaps of colorful, historic pueblos (towns), we knew not to expect much architectural eye candy in Ecuador. The center of San Gabriel was alright – tiendas (stores) and panaderias (bakeries) abound – and we learned that prime street parking spots (marked with blue lines) come with a fee.

The center of San Gabriel

Main plaza

Colorful church in the city center

Cascada de Paluz

Some locals had told us about this off-the-beaten-track waterfall, so we decided to check it out. After following a potholed dirt road for fifteen minutes, we reached this well-maintained and pretty park. The waterfall was impressive and overlooked by elves!

Lots of elves were keeping a close watch.

Approaching the waterfall

Cascada de Paluz

A Popular & Fascinating Destination in Colombia: San Agustin’s Archaeological Park

May 30, 2023 / Liesbet / 23 Comments

San Agustin in Southern Colombia seems to be on the list of every visitor. We marked it way back as a top destination as well as another archeological site in Tierradentro, but gave up on the second, “underground” part when hearing reports of recent criminal activity in that region.

San Agustin in Colombia

Location San Agustin

We reached San Agustin in the middle of April, after a two-day drive from the Tatacoa Desert.

(Click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Beautiful view of the Magdalena River along the way to San Agustin

We’ve often driven through rows of trees like this in Colombia

Snacks I bought from vendors on these long rides – tiny grapes and two kinds of nuts. The “cheese sticks” were a gift from a Colombian family also waiting in line for another landslide cleanup.

The town itself doesn’t have much to offer. We might be spoiled with all the cute and colorful pueblos we encountered north of here.

It was still nice to walk to town from our free camping spot, shop for produce at the market or Ara grocery store, go out for a couple of meals, and watch the scene from a park bench. The main reason we spent a handful of days here was to do online work.