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A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Truck camper living (page 10 of 12)

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad (in Mexico) – March 2022

April 9, 2022 / / 26 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Last month, Mark, Maya, and I happily kept traveling throughout Baja California Sur in Mexico. The grocery and car expense categories battled for the top position. As to be expected, fuel burned a lot of money as we rounded and explored the southern part of the peninsula. The gas prices in Baja haven’t changed much from last year, but they are fluctuating, just like propane. In any case, these prices are less than in the US now, so we will fill all our tanks before returning.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Filling our tank when it’s close to empty is an expensive endeavor – more than US$100!!
The top price is for gasoline and one of the cheapest per liter that we have found in Baja this year
Gasoline prices in Loreto, one year ago (the top number)
Driving on rough roads is not good for the fuel economy!
Rough road downhill to Agua Verde
Rough road to one of the Pacific beaches

Our utility cost while in Mexico is higher than in the US, because we kept paying for our cheap and discontinued AT&T data plan north of the border and for internet in this country. We also pay for drinking water now and keep having to fill our propane tanks to run our fridge and cook. We can’t wait to get a compressor fridge that works on electricity, which we have plenty of thanks to our solar panels.

Free camping along Camino Cabo Este
Parked for the night at Playa Palmilla in San Jose del Cabo
An entire arroyo, just for us
Boondocked along the road to Agua Verde
Parked in a free public lot in La Paz again, for a couple of nights
Camped at El Canejo beach
One of our favorite free campsites in Baja California

As always, most of our camping spots were free and attractive.

We stumbled upon an international triathlon in La Paz
Baby turtles ready to be released
Turtle release after sunset in Todos Santos
Hiking above Agua Verde
Hiking with friends of the furry kind
Beach walks with Maya
Hiking in Mesquite Canyon, worthy of a separate blog post…

Just like lots of activities we enjoy: witnessing a triathlon in La Paz and a turtle release in Todos Santos, hiking, bird watching, beach and town strolling, hanging out with friends, snorkeling, watching sunrise and sunset.

Van pizza made by Greg and Duwan and eaten with them and our new friend, Gehn
Snorkeling in Agua Verde
Even Maya made new friends: Delilah and Pyros…
… and Lola, the beach dog, of course.

In March we did stay at a couple of pay campgrounds (south of El Pescadero and in Loreto), ordered a part for our awning (which was shipped to a friend in San Diego, CA), and cooked more meals than in February.

Camped for a few nights in Rivera Del Mar RV Park, Loreto
Dinner out with friends, Greg, Duwan, and Gehn in Todos Santos
Delicious fish tacos in Todos Santos – the cheapest we’ve bought in Baja
Homemade pizza in the truck camper of our new friends, Deb and Andy, who have an oven!!!
Sharing a fabulous homemade pizza with Deb and Andy on our beach in Agua Verde
Mark made the most delicious tortilla soup for dinner one evening – with fabulous toppings!

There were also a few smaller expenditures: laundry, new flipflops and a quarterly blood test for Mark (did you notice how cheap these are in Mexico?), a small turtle souvenir for me, and a bone for Maya. All in all, not a bad month…

Walking around Todos Santos
Hotel in Todos Santos
Sunset in Agua Verde
Sunset over the Pacific Ocean, which has bigger waves than the Sea of Cortez
Another sunset over the Pacific Ocean

March 2022 Overview:

Groceries:

Car (fuel: $233; car wash: $5):

Utilities (internet: $68; propane: $40; water: $15; dump: $5):

Dining out:

Alcohol:

Camping:

Camper (repairs):

Laundry:

Clothing:

Medical (blood test Mark):

Miscellaneous (souvenir):

Dog (treat):

 

TOTAL:

 

$244

$238

$128

$72

$36

$30

$22

$11

$10

$6

$5

$4

———

$ 806

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Sunset over the Pacific Ocean through a cactus

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Off the Beaten Path in Baja California Sur, Mexico – Cabo Este or the East Cape

April 2, 2022 / / 56 Comments

While any visit to the Agua Verde area by vehicle can only happen after taking a 30-kilometer/20-mile slow, steep, uncomfortable, and extremely bumpy ride (after another 10 kilometers/7 miles of pavement), exploring the East Cape by its access road Camino Cabo Este is even tougher and more demanding. No wonder this stretch is called one of the worst roads in Baja.

Camino Cabo Este

Luckily, you don’t have to drive the entire 100 kilometers (60 miles) of washboard and potholed dirt track in one go! As a matter of fact, it took us twelve fabulous days to complete this one-way adventure.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)

La Paz

But first, Mark, Maya, our friends Duwan and Greg, and I spent a few days in La Paz, where we found a decent parking spot for three nights. Mark and I remember the capital of Baja California Sur as a pleasant town with a good vibe and historic charm. In the last sixteen years, it hasn’t changed much.

Fishermen next to our camper, going out in the early morning
Mural at our La Paz parking lot, at night
Mural on the property of the Marea Hotel
Happy hour in La Paz
Dinner out at a local seafood restaurant
Sharing a pink smoothie on Valentine’s Day
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Ten Days at a Pebble Beach in Baja – Friends, Wildlife, Hikes, and Views

March 26, 2022 / / 48 Comments

Our arrival in Baja California, Mexico, was delayed by six weeks, because we decided to work for a month in the Phoenix area (Arizona, USA) after spending more money than anticipated on the cross-country drive from east to west. We also had a few important phone calls requiring unwavering internet and we needed an extra two weeks to prep our camper for the trip.

The majestic Sea of Cortez

Soon after crossing the border in mid-January, we decided Mark should fly back to Massachusetts for a family matter. To accommodate that impromptu trip, we “rushed” south on the peninsula and prepared for his imminent return. Maya and I stayed at a campground in Loreto (Rivera Del Mar) during his ten-day absence.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos to read their captions.)

The Malecon in Loreto
Loreto: a cute, historic, and colorful town
The Mission in Loreto

After all those arrangements and adjustements, you can imagine that we were more than ready and excited to take “a break from life” and start our Baja adventures. On February 1st, we filled our truck camper, T&T, with drinking water, propane, and food, emptied our sewage tanks at the campground, and headed south for a beach vacation along the Sea of Cortez. We spent one night at Juncalito Beach to get a decent start the next morning. The road to our destination in the Agua Verde area would be slow, treacherous, and mind blowing; a perfect introduction to Baja’s roughness and beauty.

Camped along the beach in Juncalito
A calm bay at Playa Juncalito

As expected, the single-track dirt road contained sharp turns, potholes, small rocks, and gravel. Some parts were steep and nerves of steel were required. Mark did a great job bringing us down to the coastline, where the track turned into the usual Baja secondary road: washboard, sand, and gravel. The cloudy, drizzly weather was unusual.

The cloudy and drizzly approach to the Agua Verde coastline
Slow and careful drive, back up!
Hopefully nobody is coming from the opposite side!
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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad (in Mexico) – February 2022

March 18, 2022 / / 34 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Mark, Maya, and I spent the entire month of February in Baja California Sur, Mexico. It was a fabulous time for the mind, body, and wallet, once Mark returned from his 10-day visit to Massachusetts to spend quality time with his dad.

Sunrise in the Sea of Cortez
Our home beach for ten days, near Agua Verde
Walk along the beach and rocks
Beautiful waters of the Sea of Cortez
Maya in the dunes

As a matter of fact, February 2022 was a month for the books – we generally had a really good time, exploring the peninsula, discovering peaceful beaches, spending time with friends, and eating delectable fish tacos. I hope to elaborate on some of our fun Baja experiences in upcoming blogs, whenever resources allow.

Dinner at our place with Jon and Gail
Campfire with friends
Happy hour with Duwan and Greg on a hill – Cabo Pulmo

Our biggest February expense was the car again, mostly because our annual Newburyport residency tax was due. Since we sat still for a chunk of the month, the fuel amount wasn’t too bad. In Baja, Mexico, a liter of gasoline costs around 22 pesos at the moment. This is roughly $4.20 per gallon. Usually, this is more expensive than in the US. While prices for fuel have gone crazy there, in Mexico they have gone up less than 1 peso per liter (20 cents per gallon) since March 2021. Food for thought…

Rock formation with Maya
Rock with a view – Cabo Pulmo
Endless beaches along the Cabo Pulmo peninsula

We didn’t spend a lot on groceries for a few reasons: prices for produce are cheaper than in the US, we don’t care about imported or brand products, and we have eaten out multiple times, which is reflected in the higher than usual dining out category. Once a week, Mark and I order fish or shrimp tacos from a street vendor or at a restaurant. These cost around $2 a piece, of which we each consume three or four. And, there might have been an extra meal or two on top of that.

Mezcal tasting and dinner out with Duwan and Greg
Dinner out in La Paz with Duwan and Greg

Utilities include propane (which, luckily, is cheaper here than in the US), water (which we buy at agua purificado shops that have a hose to fill our tank – average cost is 13 cents per gallon or about $5 for a full tank), discharging our black tank (when we’re careful, it takes three or four weeks to completely fill Temp’s toilet tank; this has never happened – in Zesty we could only go one week), and internet. We keep our US data plan going, even though we are not using it right now. At $35/month for unlimited data, we don’t quite want to give that up, because this particular AT&T plan doesn’t exist anymore.

Ordering purified water in La Ribera

In Mexico, we use a local SIM-card and buy internet plans. Our friends Duwan and Greg (from Make Like An Apeman) had extra data the end of February, so they were super generous to let us use as much as we wanted. Most of the time, however, we are not in areas with cell (data) service. Because we make phone calls through Google Voice (over the internet), we don’t need phone plans.

Flor de Cana tasting on the beach
Birthday happy hour on the beach
Happy Birthday, Mark

We started celebrating Mark’s birthday a day early, on February 28th. I’d bought him a 7-year-old bottle of our favorite rum, Flor de Caña, and we did a tasting – adding the 4- and 5-year-old versions we already had – on our “private” beach in a remote area of the peninsula. Tip for anyone else who likes Flor de Caña rum, which originates in Nicaragua: the 4-year-old one is pretty much the cheapest rum here on Baja, at 160 pesos ($8) for a 75cl bottle!

Sea of Cortez

I joined Duwan and Greg on a day trip to the Sol de Mayo waterfall and a couple of other sites. Dogs were not allowed, so Mark stayed home with Maya. At seven dollars, the entrance fee to the falls seemed steep, but it was worth it. One could spend an entire day there, swimming, photographing, and walking upstream to smaller pools and cascades. Plus, I snuck a shower in the refreshing water!

Visiting Sol de Mayo
Sol de Mayo waterfall
Walking upriver revealed more pools and cascades
Under the waterfall

We managed to camp for free the entire month, finding some amazing places off the beaten track. As always, we couldn’t have done it without our trusted iOverlander app and tips from friends. Special thanks to Jon and Gail and Sandie and Karsten.

Playa Juncalito, south of Loreto
Parked in La Paz with Ballena Blanca for a few days
Sunset at our camp spot in La Ventana – T&T and Ballena Blanca
Camped on the small peninsula of Cabo Pulmo town
Less windy campsite in Cabo Pulmo
Beach-side camping
Beach camping by ourselves
Camped in a peaceful arroyo along the Cabo Pulmo peninsula

Our total expenses were well under average last month and we hope that’s an indication of how we can live and travel south of the border. Once we arrive in South America, we hope $800 (instead of $1,300) can become our new average…

February 2022 Overview:

Car (fuel: $159; city excise tax: $106):

Groceries:

Dining out:

Utilities (internet: $55; propane: $14; water: $10; dump: $2):

Alcohol:

Gifts (B-day Mark):

Drinking out:

Transportation (MA train Mark):

Laundry:

Entertainment (waterfalls):

Computer (app for streaming):

Dog (vet procedure):

Accommodation/camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$265

$132

$126

$81

$41

$23

$20

$10

$8

$7

$5

$5

$0

———

$ 723

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Duwan and Greg also covered their month of February in two blog post: here (part 1) and here (part 2).

Sunset on the sandspit in La Paz

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Extremes in Baja California, Mexico – From Peaceful Paradise to Ferocious Flames

March 13, 2022 / / 58 Comments

I invite you to come along for a particular 24-hour time period in Mark and my life, last week, in an area south of Todos Santos, on Baja’s west coast.

Mark, Maya, and I are driving north along the southwest coast of Baja California in Mexico. We’ve picked a free camping spot for the night at Jimi Beach, which we read about in iOverlander. Tomorrow morning, we will try to access a different place by a waterfall, which promises to be peaceful yet adventurous to reach. That’s why we opt for an early start and not push our luck today.

“I’m not sure camping at Playa Jimi is such a good idea,” I mention as our truck camper T&T (Temp & Thirsty) bridges the gap to our destination’s turnoff on the GPS.

“Why is that?” Mark asks.

“Well, you also read that people were robbed at gunpoint just south of there, two weeks ago. We want to be able to sleep at night and not worry about intruders.”

So far, we have never felt unsafe on the Baja peninsula, but it appears that the southern tip is more crowded, touristy, and potentially dangerous.

“I guess we can go to the waterfall spot instead. Better safe than sorry. It is getting late, though,” Mark says, as he focuses on the road ahead.

We usually aim to be settled by 5pm. It is 4pm and we have no idea what to expect. We change the waypoint on the GPS to the turnoff for this new location. Mark had scrutinized that area on satellite images ahead of time.

“I read the turnoff is very tricky, so look for it carefully. It is situated just past the second bridge,” he says. These “bridges” span arroyos (washes or dry river beds), which are often used as roads.

We slow down and pull over, off the main road. The turnoff is behind us, an extremely sharp bend that double-backs parallel to the highway. The only way to get there is by making a U-turn over four lanes. Luckily, this section of the pavement does not have a divider.

The access road to the fence and arroyo runs parallel to the highway and requires an approach from the north.

We wait until no cars are seen and make a quick loop on the asphalt to reach the dirt road, which leads to a barbed wire fence. I drag it open and close it again after Mark passes. That would keep the riffraff out, we both think.

The highway, seen from the dirt road after the turn-off

“Well, that was the worst part,” Mark sighs.

We follow the dirt track and turn left. Based on Google Earth, this is a short and easy stretch to join the wide arroyo Mark had spotted. Except, now, years later, pointy bushes and plants with needles have grown and the access route is very narrow.

Google Earth image of the area

Not again, I think, remembering our hours of cutting and sawing trees and brush to reach a lovely pebble beach last month. All in an attempt to prevent scratching up our truck camper.

Mark grabs our handsaw, which now lives in the cab of the truck, and jumps out. “You drive, while I cut branches,” he instructs.

For the next forty minutes, he labors and sweats, while I inch our camper forward, trying to avoid the remainder of overhanging branches. There is no room to turn around and we have no idea how much further it is to a less narrow part of “road.”

Mark saws branches while I slowly inch the truck forward

The sun is setting fast. Eventually, we reach a wider stretch – we have arrived in the arroyo, where soft gravel and sand await us. Mark takes over the wheel and stops again after a few yards (meters).

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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad – January 2022

February 24, 2022 / / 24 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

This monthly expense report is a bit delayed for two reasons: I recently posted our yearly report (and who wants to be bombarded by numbers every week?) and I have taken a step back with internet “chores,” because our data is limited, expensive, and often inaccessible. And, I’d rather explore the Baja peninsula at the moment than sit behind a computer. 🙂

(As always, hover over or click on the photos to read their captions.)

Building a frame for our platform at the Home Depot of Yuma, AZ – another failed attempt as it didn’t support the camper enough
Using 2-inch foam as part of our platform did not work well – it compressed due to the off-set weight of the camper. We needed a new solution.
New platform, which consists of a built-up frame and stall mat
Taking the camper off the truck again in the California desert, to fix the platform
Mark lowered the bumper of the truck to make the camper fit better in its bed.
The newest platform set-up, which is much lower and thinner than ever before.

Mark, Maya, and I started our new year in the desert just west of Yuma, Arizona, getting ready for our postponed multiple-month trip in Baja California, Mexico. We had to fix a few more things on the camper and the car, like rebuilding the platform that goes in the bed of the truck for the umpteenth time and making sure the “basement” was secure. We eventually ended up dropping the bumper of our pick-up truck and taking the clearance lights off, after another improvement attempt on another Home Depot parking lot failed.

Greg helps Mark inspect the “basement” of our truck camper
Mark takes off the clearance lights on the truck and needed electricity from inside the camper to drill out the holes in order to plug them.
Thirsty without the orange lights on top of the cab – we’d already put black caps on them as a blend-in mechanism right after buying the truck.
Mark assembles the truck’s interior parts after the job is done.

While the camper was off the truck, we decided to go on our first off-road adventure to explore a bit of the area, like the “Valley of Names.” What a bouncy endeavor that was! None of us can say we actually enjoyed the jerky experience…

Our first time “off roading” in Thirsty
A bumpy ride
Extinct volcano along the way to Valley of Names
Valley of Names
Walking by hundreds of names formed by people using rocks
The Valley of Names stretches for miles!

I also needed a dental check-up (and a $10 haircut apparently) right across the border in Los Algodones before we could really head south. Luckily, none of these visits and repair tasks were expensive, so we were off to a good year, moneywise, despite a few more delays. Having friends around made everything more fun!

Strolling in the border town of Los Algodones, famous and popular for its amount of dentists and pharmacies
Walking around Los Algodones
Long line at the border to cross back into the US
Short hair again, for $10
Visit from Patti and her dogs, in the desert near Yuma
Maya had doggie friends visit.
Our friend Greg, from the blog “Make Like An Apeman” joined us for a little while as well, in between house sits.

Life in Mexico is cheaper than in the US, so we had high hopes for a less-than-average month as far as living costs were concerned. We knew gasoline would be pricey (the equivalent of $4/gallon) and ended up driving bigger-than-planned distances from the start.

Our first boondocking spot in Baja California, at Shell Beach, half an hour south of San Felipe
Sunrise on Shell Beach, along the Sea of Cortez
Expansive and pretty Shell Beach
Walk along Shell Beach
Bounty after a long beach walk

We arrived in Baja on January 12th and soon realized that Mark should leave the country for an impromptu visit back to his parents in Massachusetts. The price for that “detour” resulted in an extra $530 for flights, public transportation, parking, a Covid test, and a ten-day campground stay for Maya and me in Loreto. All our other camping spots last month were free.

The dunes of Guerrero Negro were our second stop on the peninsula, before heading south to Loreto.
Hiking in the sand dunes of Guerrero Negro
Maya digging a hole to cool off – or have fun, or get me all sandy!
Funny girl!
Resting on the dunes with my pup
Nope, we are not in the Sahara Desert…

From 2022 on, we are splitting the camper category into two parts – car and camper – to keep better track of those expenditures separately. Our Mexican car insurance was higher than stated below ($442 instead of $113), because it incorporates the refund for our American insurance, which we paused.

Camped for free in Mulege, the last stop before “settling” in Loreto for twelve days
The mouth of the Mulege River
Moonrise in Mulege
Delicious dinner after finding clams at low tide on a rocky beach in Mulege
Ospreys are abundant in Mulege

The grocery category is lower than usually, as food is cheaper in Mexico and we eat out more often for the same reason. Since our favorite rum (from Nicaragua) is available on the peninsula, we splurged buying several bottles of Flor de Cana instead of Bacardi, hence the pretty high number for alcohol. For now, we kept our affordable unlimited (and now unavailable) $35 AT&T data plan in the States, on top of buying data for our Mexican SIM-card ($27), which explains the larger number in the utilities section.

T&T in our preferred campground in Loreto
Rivera del Mar RV Park was much busier this year than in 2021.
One of the bathroom buildings at the campground in Loreto

Tourist cards for Mexico cost about $33 a person, which created an extra expense category this past month. Other than the money needed for Mark’s trip back to attend to a family situation, January had us on track for an average $1,300 month… February – so far – is looking much better. ????

January 2022 Overview:

Car (fuel: $337; insurance: $113; repairs: $13):

Travel (flights Mark):

Groceries:

Alcohol:

Utilities (internet: $62; propane: $10; water: $6):

Accommodation (camping):

Camper (repairs):

Customs & Immigration:

Dining out:

Medical (Covid test Mark):

Drinking out:

Health & Fitness (tooth brush M, haircut L):

Gifts (B-day friend):

Transport (trains M):

Laundry:

Clothes (flip flops L):

Postage:

Miscellaneous (agricultural spray Mexico):

 

TOTAL:

 

$463

$402

$217

$98

$77

$74

$72

$67

$59

$40

$39

$32

$21

$17

$11

$10

$2

$1

———

$ 1,702

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

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Five Things to Do in Loreto, Baja California, Mexico

February 16, 2022 / / 47 Comments

Mark, Maya, and I visited Loreto for a few days last year, in our campervan Zesty. It was pretty much our most southern stop on the peninsula during a two-month Baja California sojourn. We spent most of that time on the beaches of Bahia Concepcion and in Mulege, a town we liked better than Loreto. I wrote about that “comparison” here.

Every city in Baja California has a statue of their name in colorful letters.

When it became clear and imminent for Mark to fly back to Massachusetts last month, we decided Loreto would be the best, most convenient, and cheapest place for Maya and me to await his return. We managed to snag a “dry camping” spot at Rivera del Mer RV Park ($5/person/night), which has splendid bathroom and laundry facilities.

T&T at Rivera del Mar RV park this year
Zesty parked at Rivera del Mar RV park last year (spring 2021) – nobody else was around
In perspective: T&T parked in the corner of the tight “dry camping” area

Vendors with fresh tortillas and other goodies pass right by the gate and the center of town is a short walk away. Unless you have a dog. That requires a detour to avoid all the barking, aggressive, local canines guarding their properties.

Lunch on fresh corn tortillas, bought from a passing vendor

(As always, hover over or click on the photos to read their captions.)

Here are my five highlights of Loreto, which grew on me when I camped there in T&T the last twelve days of January.

Seal on the pedestrian walkway in town

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Annual Expense Report of a Nomad – 2021

February 1, 2022 / / 25 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. “The less money you spend, the less you need to make” is our motto. ???? At the beginning of each year, I produce an expense report for the previous 12 months. This is the most recent one, for 2021.

Our first yearly expense report (2016) can be found here, the report of 2017 is here, the one for 2018 here, our 2019 expenses are located here, and our total costs for 2020 are documented here.

These reports include ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and a 60-pound dog. We adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019. Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast. The utility cost refers to phone data plans with AT&T.

In 2021, Mark, Maya, and I traveled in our campervan Zesty for three months (in California and Mexico) before selling it, drove across the USA in a rental car for one week, lived in the “room above the garage” at my in-laws in Massachusetts for five months (to change gears), and headed to the southwest again in our new-to-us truck camper T&T (Thirsty the truck and Temp the camper) during the last four months of the year.

(As always, click on photos or hover over them to read captions. Note: a bug must have slipped into my most recent WordPress update, because I can’t move photos around within my galleries anymore. The result is that my images are not shown in chronological order. My apologies.)

Camped at the beach in spring, Bahia Conception, Baja, Mexico
Back on the road – waterfalls in New York state
Boondocked in Colorado on the way west – happy our Alde heater works at this altitude
Boondocked in the fall
Snow in the Black Hills of South Dakota
The badlands of South Dakota
Approaching Chicago, Illinois

Despite our fears of spending way more than our annual average in 2021, because of inflation and the rising costs of living and fuel, our final sum is pretty close to that of the previous year. The reason: we received a few thousand dollars in credits after issues, claims, customer support calls, and points from using our trusted Chase credit card. Years past, these points went to flights which then didn’t get recorded in my expense reports. Last year, they went against groceries (during the height of Covid) at 1.5X their value and towards credit card payments. If you’re interested in a new credit card that offers 60,000 points (a value of $600) when you spend $4,000 in the first three months.

Many projects occurred before we left New England again…
Mark installs the tie-downs for our truck camper
Mark cleaning up the wiring in the lithium battery he built
One of the many attempts – and expenses – to build the right platform to rest the camper on
Our friend John helps Mark figuring out an issue with the battery
Fixing some issues with the bathroom sink

Our main expenses, just like other years, were the camper and groceries ($328 a month, which appears pretty high). The biggest chunk of vehicle money went to fuel, insurances, parts, and maintenance. Why is the maintenance amount ($53) so low then, you ask? Because we received $1,907 from a claim when a third party put a scratch in the side of Zesty. We managed to buff it out ourselves and used the money against other camper projects. We also sold $1,600 worth of accessories that came with our “new” truck and our camper.

The new set-up is complete! Picking up the camper in Vermont, last August.
The pick-up truck came with a nice Tonneau cover, which we managed to sell separately.
The new owner of a big storage box, we sold off our truck camper
Getting more fuel in a small town in the Midwest
Pemex fuel station in Loreto, BCS, Mexico

A lot of “cash” went to plane tickets (to Belgium), our trip across the country in a rental car, a root canal and crown for me (which I had done in Mexico), an early Covid test for me, and a Shingles shot for Mark (both in Arizona). We hope to cut these kinds of expenses down in 2022. But other surprise costs will pop up, no doubt!

Driving east into the sunrise…
My new dentist is located in Los Algodones, Mexico
My first Covid test ($75) in January 2021, after feeling flu-ish. It was negative.
Our crappy rental car with a crappy bike rack we had to buy to transport our bikes back east.
Catching up on work and research after a full day on the road.
We stayed at pet-friendly Morel 6’s along our drive across country, last April.
Driving across the country from west to east again, in a rental this time

Did you know that taking care of one dog can cost upwards of $800 a year? The dogfood category was higher than usual, because we stocked up on bags of it for our trip in Baja, where they don’t sell high-quality kibble with salmon. Of course, Maya is worth every dollar!

Fish oil, a lovely (but costly) supplement for Maya
Birthday gift for Liesbet
Taking my mom out for dinner in Belgium for her 70th birthday
Going out for Mexican food in Benson, Arizona, to treat our friend John.

Unlike our drinking out category, which is minimal, dining out (on patios and take-away) took a big bite out of our budget. This has to do with birthday celebrations and reconnecting with friends. We also spent quite a bit on gifts in 2021, part of that for an Airbnb “weekend” in Bahia Concepcion, Baja California, Mexico, for Mark’s 50th birthday.

Dinner with friends at Mi Loreto, our favorite restaurant in Loreto, Baja California, Mexico
Friends’ get-together in Massachusetts this past summer
Celebrating New Year 2021 with friends in the desert of California
Street tacos for lunch in Baja
A fancy bottle of whiskey for the anniversary of my in-laws.
64th anniversary party organized for my in-laws
Family visiting in Newburyport, MA

Utilities are what they are. We are bummed about the high propane costs, because we prefer a fridge that works on electricity; hopefully we can solve that issue later this year by replacing it. Internet is what keeps us connected and in Mexico, we pay for drinking water. I decided to add our Arizona campground expense from December to this report (and updated last month’s as well), to avoid “hidden costs.” Sure, we usually don’t stay in RV parks and this amount was incorporated into Mark’s wages, but it was still something we paid for. Hopefully, never to be repeated.

Huerta Don Chano, a lush campground in Mulege
Laundry prices at Rivera del Mar in Loreto, BCS, Mexico
Propane filling station at Leaf Verde RV Resort
Our home for a few weeks in Arizona, while Mark worked the night shift at Macy’s warehouse in December

The other two categories we might be able to do better with this year are household and alcohol. The first one contains items we needed to equip our new camper (which will only be repeated somewhat if we change gears again). As for the booze, beer, and wine, we are social drinkers and enjoy a glass on the weekends and when hanging out with friends. No excuses needed. I’d say we did pretty well with the bottom part of the report underneath. Who else spends $30 a year on clothing? 🙂

The new bike rack solution allows us to carry our bikes with the new set-up.
Mark installed a new battery in his phone. Yes, there was smoke involved!

In conclusion (and to our relief), 2021 seems to be another average expense year, in which we succeeded to live on around $16,000 a year, which amounts to $1,333 a month. It proves to be a feasible goal, especially when we leave the first world…

Cheers to friendship, with Denise

2021 Overview:

Camper (fuel: $2,760; ins.: $1,281; reg.: $152; maint.: $53;

tolls: $40; parking: $14; credit: + $3,507):

Groceries:

Travel (plane tickets, rental car, motels, camping Mex.):

Medical (root canal L in Mex., shot M, meds):

Dog (food: $339; vet: $262; supplies: $254):

Dining out:

Gifts (B-days, Christmas):

Utilities (internet: $478; prop.: $123; water: $45; Skype: $11):

Rent (Leaf Verde RV Resort):

Household (tools, supplies, battery parts, bike rack):

Alcohol:

Health & Fitness (haircut L, vitamins M):

Customs & Immigration (new passport M, visas Mex.):

Entertainment (whale watching, parks):

Bank charge (Chase visa card):

Computer (phone batt., router, domains):

Laundry:

Clothing (flip flops M, T-shirts L):

Drinking out:

Postage:

Miscellaneous (carwash, copies):

 

TOTAL:

Credit:

 

TOTAL:

 

$4,300

 

$3,942

$2,786

$939

$855

$737

$720

$656

$529

$497

$485

$234

$187

$161

$150

$133

$64

$63

$40

$21

$10

———

$ 17,509

$    1,699

———

$15,810

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

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Free Power – How Do We Get Sufficient Electricity to Camp Off-grid?

January 27, 2022 / / 30 Comments

Most of you already know that Mark, Maya, and I enjoy boondocking, also called wild or dry camping. This means we don’t utilize hook-ups (connection to electricity, water, and sewer), which are standard utilities at RV parks and most campgrounds. Not only is boondocking free (or affordable in official camping areas), but it provides us with privacy, space, and peace. We just love to spend our nights in solitude, surrounded by Mother Nature – a quiet environment, starry skies, the distant howl of coyotes.

Our RV has three tanks: fresh water for drinking, showering, dishes, and cooking; a “grey” tank to collect water going down the drains, and a “black” reservoir to collect contents from the toilet. We usually fill the fresh water tank and dump the others at dump stations. In Mexico, we buy our water at the “agua purificado” store. So, these essentials consist of the process “fill, use, dump, repeat.” But how about that other commodity called electricity? How do we collect and retain enough “juice” for our computer, lights, and few appliances? How do we manage to keep our devices charged when sitting still?

Ever since we owned our 35ft sailing catamaran Irie from 2007 to 2015, we have been fans of solar power. It allows us to be self-contained, free, and camp/anchor off the beaten path. If you are curious how that materializes in our current truck camper, Temp, please read on…

Mark and I recently installed an additional solar panel on the roof of our camper to augment the existing 160W panel that came with our “new” set-up. Last year, Mark built a 270Ah LifePO4 12V (Lithium) battery for Temp and we have been using that successfully for the past months. Our camper came with a Zamp Solar 160W roof-mounted solar panel and a Zamp Solar 30A PWM charge controller when we bought it last June. The charge controller does not work well with LifePO4 batteries, so changing that out was also on our to-do list to get the camper’s electrical system better prepared for full-time living.

We installed an additional 180W fixed solar panel from BougeRV (link here) to our existing roof rack. This avoided drilling new holes into the roof for the panel itself. We used the Z-bracket mounting hardware that BougeRV sells specifically for their panels, (see link here) which attached directly to the new 180W panel and then provided a horizontal surface to mount it on our roof rack. We also utilized their pass-thru gland for the new wiring into the camper from the roof (click link here), and received 30ft of 10AWG wire (see that link here).

Panel and accessories arrive

Unpacking the panel

Junction box

Inside junction box

Z-Brackets

30ft of 10AWG cable

Gland for camper roof

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Back in Baja (Kind of) – A Week of Dunes, Drives & Decisions

January 24, 2022 / / 53 Comments

It might not have been obvious in my previous blog posts, but Mark and I were antsy about returning to the Baja California peninsula of Mexico this winter, because we had a great time here last spring, meeting like-minded travelers and taking a welcome break after publishing a book. On this subsequent visit, we hoped to hang out with friends, explore this 1,000-mile narrow stretch of land a bit more, and relax on its many beaches. Our initial goal was to arrive in early December and stay until sometime in April.

Shell Beach vista

After multiple delays – trying to find jobs in Arizona, going to the dentist in Los Algodones, more camper projects in the desert, and a few important phone calls while still in the US with good cell service, we finally crossed the border into Baja on January 12th, six weeks later than planned. It was a good day! We had arrived back in Mexico and we could feel the stress and anxiety leave our bodies. Yet, we realized it would take a while to fully adjust to the life we intend to have: one of plenty adventures with a good balance between work and leisure, and plenty of walks for Maya.

On the access road to Shell Beach, 4WD is recommended
Parked at the end of the dirt road. We didn’t feel comfortable driving and camping on the soft-sand beach

Now that we have a 4WD vehicle (as opposed to our campervan Zesty, last year), more remote campsites are accessible and we feel that’s what a lot of Baja California is about: reaching peace and solitude surrounded by nature and the sea. One thing we noticed from the start, though, is that it’s much busier than last year. We were spoiled in 2021, when rarely a soul crossed into Mexico, and we often camped by ourselves.

A big shell!
Walking Maya on the pretty beach

Half an hour south of San Felipe is “Shell Beach” along the Sea of Cortez. This was our first stop and an awesome one. Miles and miles of empty beach, low dunes, gorgeous sunrises, clear night skies, and oh-so-quiet.

Sunrise on Shell Beach (Photo courtesy of Mark Kilty)
The empty beach runs for miles
The mountainous backdrop of our camping spot
Small dunes along the beach
A huge flock of pelicans on a sand spit at low tide
Huge sand spit
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