When I realized early last year that I would turn 50 in 2025, I promised myself to do something special for this milestone occasion. But I had no idea what this would be yet. Because of our flexible lifestyle and undetermined schedules, who knew where we would end up in November? It could be Brazil. Or Chile. Or back in Colombia.
Once we secured buyers for Thirsty Bella, whom we would meet in Santiago de Chile at the beginning of December, my excitement for a destination grew. I’d always wanted to visit Rapa Nui (Easter Island), which belongs to Chile. Mark and I actually had plans for a week-long vacation there in 2014, when we were sailing in French Polynesia. But fate had something much less fun and more impactful in mind twelve years ago. So, we hopped on a plane to the US instead of Rapa Nui to deal with Mark’s health.
Sunrise on Rapa Nui/Easter Island
This magical destination had always been in the back of my mind. Now that I’d be in the capital of Chile, the only place left with regular flights to Hanga Roa, the main town of Easter Island, it was the perfect time to book this trip. Unfortunately, prices for everything—from hostel rooms to flights to the national park fee—had gone up immensely since the pandemic. I sucked it up, yet tried to keep my five-day excursion as cheaply as possible.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
With only one personal item (Latam Airlines charges extra for carry-on bags as well), I took a cab to the airport early on November 16th and hopped on a plane for five hours. This domestic flight was comfortable and smooth. There was entertainment and—to my surprise—a meal was included. When exiting the plane, passengers were welcomed with Polynesian drumming and dancing. I felt immediately transported back to the South Pacific of our sailing days. It felt great! I had missed the islands and the culture.
To save money, I walked the half hour—a bit overdressed—from the airport to my hostel, enjoyed the views of the ocean and some old and newer statues along the shoreline, and was settled by 2pm, ready for my solo adventure.
That first afternoon, I had hoped to book a “full” island tour, buy my mandatory national park ticket, inquire about activities, and get my bearings. But because it was Sunday, I couldn’t do much more than explore the town of Hanga Roa and enjoy my first sunset over the moai of Ahu Tahai.
I had three full days to take in the sights of Easter Island. My return flight would leave on the afternoon of day five. It seemed like plenty of time.
On Monday, my plan was to hike along the northern shore and end up at a couple of national park sites to peek at. I had bought my pass for $102 (which had gone up that month from $75 and the bad exchange rate with the US$ made it even more expensive), but most of the sites are only accessible with a guide. Another change since Covid.
Nevertheless, I enjoyed strolling over the bluffs and the volcanic rocks, following horse trails, and spotting the “sunset statues” by day, without the crowds. Statues on the island were erected to honor the (affluent) deceased and later in history, (mass) burials took place underneath the platforms.
Continuing along the shoreline, I passed another single moai and eventually, I walked through a gate where I was immediately yelled at and kicked out by a ranger. Luckily, a more friendly local gave me a ride back to the village.
