Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Month: April 2021

Missed Opportunities in Baja – Busy Behind the Scenes

April 28, 2021 / / 67 Comments

If you have been following my blog, you know that Mark, Maya, and I recently spent two months in Baja California, Mexico, traveling around in our campervan, Zesty. So far, I have been sharing the fun experiences and why we love the Mulegé (and Bahia Concepcion) area so much. Just how much will become clear in this post. While it appears that we just bummed around beaches, watched whales, and explored a couple of towns, most of our time in Baja was dedicated to other, unexpected pursuits.

Maya relaxing at the beach

The dogfood saga

Before we left the US, Mark and I had bought one 30-pound bag of dogfood for Maya, as always. It’s not that we could have carried more in our well-stocked and filled-to-the-brim 19ft home on wheels. We had no idea how long we’d be in Mexico and were fully aware of her food potentially running out. We will find decent dogfood somewhere on the peninsula, we thought.

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Encounters of the Human Kind – Making Friends in Baja

April 22, 2021 / / 53 Comments

Something magical happens once nomads venture across the border of the United States. It occurred to us in the past and then again, recently. As van dwellers and RVers for years in the US, we rarely connected with fellow travelers. Campers generally stay to themselves – especially during the pandemic – in familiar areas: RV parks and official campgrounds, which we don’t frequent, or out in the boonies, which we enjoy. Conversations are short and shallow. All this seems to change once we leave the country and are confronted with like-minded, universal travelers.

Bumping into friends – unexpectedly – at our Loreto campground

Kathi and Mary from Missouri, USA

It started with the Facebook group Talk Baja, where Kathi replied to one of my posts and we discovered that we both had entered Mexico on the same day, at the same border crossing. We even thought we’d seen each other’s vans along the eastern highway, Mex 5. Eventually, we shared a campground in San Ignacio and later in Mulegé.

The campground in San Ignacio, where we first met Kathi and Mary

Our acquaintance led to a few (masked) chats, the women buying and reading my travel memoir Plunge, and remaining in touch. They even invited us for a visit to their home in Missouri, which we considered on our journey back to the US East Coast. Due to our schedules, however, we never managed to spend quality time together. Yet.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in the galleries to read their captions.)

Kathi and Mary bought a copy of Plunge in Mulege
Maya made friends in Mulege as well (see previous post); some of them gathered bones for all to chew on.

You can find Kathi’s Facebook page here and Mary’s here.

Ivan from Spain

One of our first evenings on a (rocky) beach in Baja, Mark, Maya, and I sat in our chairs enjoying the view, when a man purposefully walked towards us, masked. He appeared to be the only other camper at Papa Fernandez and had braved a mile of sinking-in-the-pebbles effort to reach us. We chatted, became friends, and met up several times afterwards, expectedly and unexpectedly. Ivan introduced other seasoned travelers to us in Mulegé, some of whom we ran into again later.

Ivan’s campsite at the opposite end of the Papa Fernandez beach
Early on – sitting on the beach where Ivan initially met us
Ivan joined us on this rocky beach south of Mulege – we are all sheltered from the strong north winds
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Tale of Two Towns – Mulegé & Loreto in Baja California Sur

April 15, 2021 / / 50 Comments

Mark, Maya, and I entered Baja California, Mexico, on February 1st 2021 in Zesty, without much of a plan. No surprise there! The main reason for our decision to cross the border was threefold: we needed a break from the US and its chaos, politics, and atmosphere, we aimed to find warmer weather, and we were both ready for a little “vacation” after all the hard work on my travel memoir Plunge.

Baja California, Mexico
Mulege & Loreto, Baja, Mexico

Other than that, we’d drive until we found 1) warmth or 2) an area that spoke to us. Number two came first in the form of Mulegé, a town off the beaten tourist track about 2/3 down the Baja peninsula on the Sea of Cortez side.

Why Mulegé?

Sometimes, when you find a place that touches your heart, it’s difficult to describe why. Mark and I drove through and stayed in this town – actually in the exact same campground – fifteen years ago on our journey south (which brought us all the way to Panama and back) in a truck camper with our dogs Kali and Darwin. But it didn’t leave an impression. Also, we had different goals of sightseeing and exploring back then, not hanging out and immersing ourselves.

The official name of Mulege is Heroica Mulege
Entrance to the town of Mulege from the highway, Mex 1
Local brewery
Colonial-looking beer store

Here’s what we liked about this little gem on our recent visit:

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Monthly Expenses – March 2021 (on the Baja Peninsula, Mexico)

April 12, 2021 / / 26 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Pretty much the entire month of March, Mark, Maya, and I lived and traveled in Zesty in Baja California, Mexico. In general, life is cheaper south of the border, with the big exception of fuel. That’s why these final numbers were a bit surprising to me; I thought we’d do better. But, there were some unusual additions to our normal spending habits.

Sunrise at Playa La Perla
Our favorite campsite along Bahia Concepcion: Playa La Escondida
Laundry facilities at our campground in Loreto
Laundry prices – $1.50 per load of washing and $1.50 per load of drying
The only facilities at this $10 a night campground of Rancho Mil, an hour south of the US border, were trash, pit toilets, and cold showers.

One of them was the annual city tax for our camper, which ironically is rarely ever in Newburyport and when it is, it just sits on the driveway unused. We splurged on a whale tour, which was seriously worth the money – but not so much the effort getting there… Our annual Chase Sapphire Reserve visa card fee is always due in March. While this seems high, we get much more than $150 back in credits, points, and other benefits during a year of usage. We also had a wonderful dinner out for Mark’s 50th birthday.

One of the many whales approaching our little boat

The utility category is higher than usual, because we kept our affordable and discontinued AT&T plan in the US  ($35/ month for unlimited data use) while also buying a Mexican equivalent from Telcel for our time in Baja. The same happened with our dog, Maya. We needed new dog food in Mexico, which wasn’t a good idea (more about that in an upcoming blog) and which resulted in ordering better food that awaited us upon our return across the border.

Eating out(side) with our camping friends Sandie and Karsten from Germany
Free camping south of Mulege
Camped for free near Mesquite Canyon

On the flipside, groceries were affordable. We only bought enough for a few days at a time and ate out frequently. Based on that, I did expect the dining out category to be higher, especially since it includes a fancy (very!) delayed birthday meal for me, joined by our friends Sandie and Karsten. On my actual birthday (and book launch), our bubble of friends only had snacks to hold us over because nobody felt like cooking.

Free camping near Posada Concepcion
Calm morning walk
The settlement of Posada Concepcion
Free camping north of Loreto
Beach and view towards Loreto
More chances to do my favorite walk along Bahia Concepcion

While it sure adds up, camping appeared cheaper than anticipated as well. Half of the nights in Baja, we paid for Zesty to be parked at an official campground ($10 a night) or on the beach ($7 – $10/night), where Mexican concessionaries would collect their fees. I did bargain when we stayed longer in one place along Bahia Concepcion and we intermittently camped for free in Mexico and always once back in the US.

Free camping between Bahia Concepcion and Loreto
View over the bay
Maya enjoys being outdoors
Parked overnight (for free) at Villa Jesus and Maria on our drive back north
Free camping south of San Felipe

To see how fellow nomads Duwan and Greg made out in March, click here.

March 2021 Overview:

Camper (diesel: $184; city tax: $77):

Groceries:

Camping:

Bank charge (visa card):

Dining out:

Entertainment (whale tour):

Utilities (internet: $61; water: $9; prop: $6; Skype: $5):

Dog (food: $61; vet: $4):

Gifts (B-day dinner Mark):

Household:

Alcohol:

Clothing (flip flops):

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$261

$189

$162

$150

$97

$94

$81

$65

$50

$25

$8

$6

$6

———

$ 1,194

Compare this result to the one from last month – also in Baja California – here. Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Writing Update April 2021 – Baja Bounty

April 7, 2021 / / 49 Comments

Every first Wednesday of the month, the IWSG (Insecure Writer’s Support Group) engages writers to share their fears, thoughts, progress, struggles, excitement, encouragement, or anything really, about their writing. A different question is posed each month as a writing prompt. Answering it is optional. For April, the question is: “Are you a risk-taker when writing? Do you try something radically different in style/POV/etc. or add controversial topics to your work?”

This amazing, supportive group of writers was founded by Alex J. Cavanaugh. Today, the co-hosts are PK Hrezo, Pat Garcia, SE White, Lisa Buie Collard, and Diane Burton! Click on their names to see what they are up to this month..

My answer to the question – Do I take risks when writing?

People who have followed this blog for a while know that I am not averse to risk taking. Although I call my swift decisions, adventurous lifestyle, and “going with the flow” attitude “calculated risks.” ???? You only live once, so you better do the things you’re passionate about, and enjoy your precious time on earth. That sometimes involves expanding horizons, nudging comfort levels, taking risks.

I don’t feel like I’m taking big risks with my writing as it reflects my personality and doesn’t push my personal boundaries. That being said, I am aware that my travel memoir Plunge is different and a tad controversial. For starters, the story is set in the present tense, taking the reader along for the ride – physically and emotionally. I don’t cover things up, have no taboos, and touch on the good as well as the bad and the ugly when it comes to my alternative lifestyle and 24/7 relationship with my husband. This makes some readers uncomfortable; they are not used to “brutal honesty” and don’t care for an exposed soul (another aspect that makes my memoir unique).

Based on that – and the fact that this approach led to a one-star review and some criticism – I guess I am a bit of a risk-taker in my writing, too!

Sunrise at the beach

My book news

Mark, Maya, and I spent February and March enjoying our lives in Baja California, Mexico. This was a reward for all the hard work finishing and publishing Plunge last year. I knew that once we arrived on the peninsula, internet would be sparse and unreliable and that my time would be better spent charging my batteries (other than usual work commitments). Therefore, I laid a lot of groundwork spreading the word about my book before we crossed the southern border of the US.

Relaxing and reading

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Encounters of the Whale Kind

April 5, 2021 / / 44 Comments

The shallow Ojo de Liebre Lagoon (also called Scammon’s Lagoon) and the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California, Mexico, are the breeding grounds of the California gray whale, who migrate here every winter. Peak season to watch the adults and babies is from January through March. Ojo de Liebre (“hare eye lagoon”), a coastal lagoon near the town of Guerrero Negro, is a prime location to spot these humongous yet gentle creatures.

Whale and tail

Attempt One: Laguna Ojo de Liebre Campground

Sometime in February, Mark, Maya, and I drove 12 miles down a bumpy, gravel road past a salt mine to reach the departure point for whale watch tours ($50 per person) and set up camp for a few days.

Salt mine
Driving through one of the salt mines
Maya enjoys the scenery

It’s a beautiful location with lots of birds and trails to walk Maya – all for the price of 100 pesos ($5) for however long you’d like to stay. We could watch whale spouts through binoculars all day long. While a tad pricey for us, I decided to sign on for one of the tours, using birthday money from my parents.

Nice and quiet campsite at Ojo de Liebre (as long as it wasn’t too windy)
Maya dug out a shady hole in the dunes to rest
I could sit there and look for whales all day.
Frolicking Maya
Sunset over Ojo de Liebre

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