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A Life Less Ordinary

The Romantic Road in Bavaria, Germany – Medieval Towns, Castles & Surprises

Not too many people seem to have heard of – or been to – the Romantic Road (Romantische Straße) in Germany. When Mark, Maya, and I found ourselves at the southern end of it while visiting friends, it was a no-brainer that we would explore the area during our four days off. We actually had six days left before we needed to be back in Belgium, but the drive itself took two.

After little research and talking to Sabine and Michael in Murnau am Staffelsee, I created a short-list of the seven towns along this route that sounded most appealing. As always, we never researched much ahead of time or looked at photos. Actually, Mark had no idea whatsoever where we were going or how long we’d stay. So, the surprise and wow-factor were genuine for both of us.

The most picturesque view in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Schongau

Our first stop was only an hour or so away from our friends, whom we left in the afternoon. It was a quick drive and an easy, short visit since the town was small and we were camped at a free parking lot on the edge of the town walls.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Landsberg am Lech

The following morning, a short drive and a lucky break secured us the last spot on a free parking lot about 15 minutes by foot from the historic center.

Once we crossed the bridge into the heart of Landsberg am Lech, we were drawn to the watery ways and the colorful buildings. We splurged on a pastry while taking in the market area and its surrounding structures and gates.

Harburg Castle

On this trip, I wanted to visit one castle. Harburg it would be!

Approaching Harburg Castle by camper

To our surprise, the dedicated RV parking spots alongside the popular river were open, so we doubled back and picked a spot. After our lunch with a view, we crossed into town and climbed a narrow trail towards the top of the hill. There, Harburg Castle awaited.

We paid our entrance fees, which I thought included access to the interior spaces. Maya was allowed on the grounds and – understandably – not inside the buildings. We could work around that, taking turns.

But our tickets only allowed us to visit the exterior areas. For the rooms, towers, and walkways, a guided tour was required. Unfortunately, we just missed the 2pm tour, and exploring the grounds took less than an hour, so I didn’t get my inside-the-castle look.

The actual village of Harburg looked cozy and picturesque as well, but we decided to move on since we didn’t have much time for this driving route and needed some relaxation as well.

Nördlingen

I had higher hopes for the free camping spot we found in our Park4Night app, based on the positive reviews. Yes, it was big and fit any rig, but being located next to a very busy road and near a clock tower made it loud! Traffic never ceased, and the bell kept tolling every 15 minutes, even throughout the night!

Camped for one night along a busy road in Nördlingen

And what’s with European RVers not giving others space or privacy and parking right next to each other when there’s a plethora of empty spots elsewhere? This was our first introduction to that behavior.

The round city of Nördlingen is built in a crater and completely walled.

After a not-so-great night, the three of us set out to explore the “round” town of Nördlingen, which is built inside a meteor crater and surrounded by medieval walls. The entire 2.7 km (almost 2 miles) is covered and walkable. So we had to check that out and I loved it!

I didn’t know where to look first. To the left, the town opened up with colorful facades and red rooftops. And to the right, gardens, parks, playgrounds, and private yards revealed themselves through the narrow slits and square openings in the wall. This was a special experience.

We completed circumnavigating this medieval town and turned inwards and explored the center a bit. I climbed the 340 steps to the top of the church for an expansive view. Five dollars well spent!

Mark and Maya relaxed on a wooden recliner near a fountain. Listening to and looking at several storks who had taken up residence in the center was rewarding as well.

Dinkelsbühl

After lunch, we continued along the Romantische Straße for a stop in Dinkelsbühl. Don’t you love the name of this town?

Maya in Dinkelsbühl

The main gate looked very inviting, and we managed to park in a free lot nearby. When we discovered a festival would start that evening, we contemplated staying. After not finding a decent spot to camp and checking the schedule of the festivities, which was heavily focused on children, we stuck to the plan.

Our walk through this colorful medieval town was pleasant too, since not too many visitors were taking in the cuteness overload. My camera was trigger-happy while the three of us strolled the pretty streets and the green spaces along the outside of the walls.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Rothenburg has the reputation of being the most crowded and popular of the medieval villages along the Romantic Road. We almost skipped it, but that would have been a big mistake. As it so happened, this became my favorite destination.

Free private property camping – Donations and/or the purchasing of homemade jelly were encouraged

We arrived late in the afternoon and had to wait an hour before a camping spot opened up on the private property of a local family that allowed self-contained campers to stay for free. This was super generous and worth the wait! By 6pm, we were settled and ready for happy hour.

The following morning, we beat the tourist crowds as we explored this fairytale town. Wherever you looked, medieval walls, colorful buildings, or iconic towers popped up.

When we overheard a woman tell her mom that they should go to “that special place” first, we were intrigued. We lost track of them, so Mark Googled “special place Rothenburg ob der Tauber,” which brought us to this scenic setting.

At the opposite side of town from where we entered, we also found an interesting area of medieval bliss, where we could actually enter the circular walls and rooms of the past.

The entire city is surrounded by green spaces outside the walls, which gives one yet another option to explore the surroundings. A couple of viewpoints add to the diversity.

In the late afternoon, the three of us decided to escape from the heat at a beer garden that was located under gigantic trees along a river. My head was bothering me, so I had only one drink before switching to water. I also ordered a plate that sounded intriguing (since the better-known and more popular food wouldn’t be served for another hour) but tasted disgusting. It was called a Swiss sausage salad…

A hefty climb brought us back to the campground for a second peaceful night.

The following morning, a Sunday, we ventured into Rothenburg again for a bakery to buy pastries for breakfast. The one we targeted was closed, but we managed to find a more expensive one, where we each splurged on just one item.

After wandering through different streets than the day before, it was time to return home and head towards our last destination on this four-day vacation: Schwäbisch Hall.

Schwäbisch Hall

Schwäbisch Hall came recommended to us by our friends Sabine and Michael. Technically, it’s not on the Romantische Straße anymore, but the vibes and looks of this pretty town match the others.

Since the weather had turned and all of us felt pretty tired, we only spent about an hour roaming about this special place. What made it different from the others was that it’s located on a hill, facing a pretty river.

My camera went into overdrive again to capture the photogenic buildings and special setting, before we turned in for the evening and our last night in Bavaria.

Next up: Our August 2026 summary – Girl time in Belgium for Maya and me and Vario time in Germany for all of us

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:

Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Available on Amazon and elsewhere

eBook: US$ 5.99

Paperback: US$ 13.99


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20 Comments

  1. Each town seemed prettier than the last! fabulous.

    • I really felt like we were walking around in a fairytale along this route, no matter which village we were in. Had you heard of this area, Anabel?

  2. marianbeaman6811bce9e7

    August 12, 2026 at 3:58 pm

    The buildings and the vistas in Bavaria have a fairy tale quality indeed. I enjoyed the 360° view from the church tower. Thanks, Liesbet! 😀

    • Thanks for watching the viewpoint video, Marian. I feel that was the only way to give a good representation of the roundness of the town.

  3. So many charming towns! Europe has beautiful old places that are always well taken care of; I never tire of it. Glad you are enjoying some fun travel amid all the work to secure your new camper.

    • Hi Lexie,

      That’s what I’m learning now – and how could I not already know this as a European? – that this continent holds a lot of beautiful and special towns with well-kept cores. It was a surprise in southern France and it was one in Bavaria as well. It makes me look forward to exploring Europe in depth soon.

  4. Seemed to have no problems with your new mobile home!

    • Hi Jacqui,

      Duke has been a decent and comfortable home, but he does have some shortcomings. Especially when it’s hot out. There are no fans and half of the windows are blocked when the bed is down. For example. When the heat is trapped inside after being parked in the blazing sun all day, it’s quite hot and miserable to sleep.

  5. Wow! I could comment on so many things, but I’ll limit it. The architecture in Germany is wonderful. I can see why you wanted to explore Harburg Castle. It really is striking to the eye. A city built inside a meteor? I’m not sure how big the city is, but that sounds like an enormous meteor. I bet the average person doesn’t realize how big they can get.

    • Hi Pete,

      I’m glad you enjoyed this peek into the Romantische Straße! Nördlingen was a sizeable city to be contained within this meteor crater. So, yes, it was a pretty huge hole, which was created almost 15 million years ago!! Isn’t that how the dinosaurs were wiped out?

  6. Never thought of a driving tour through Germany, but this looks lovely!

    • Thanks, Annie. These cute medieval towns were a surprising discovery for us. I think the only other way than renting a car to explore this area is on a tour.

  7. Every time I see pictures of this part of Germany, it always makes me think of toy town as the buildings seem to be so toy like. Love Maya’s pose in the guard box. And thank you for the tip about Swiss Sausage salad. Thankfully, not available in The UK (well, at least I don’t think it is).

    Can we have some pictures of those mouth-water breakfast pasties, please? It made me hungry just reading about them.

    • Hi Hugh,

      I can see why you compare these neat, colorful Bavarian towns to a toy city. They are so well taken care of and it almost appears that you could just pick up the cute houses and move them around the town. 🙂

      You know, the best breakfast pastries I’ve had are still only available in Belgium. So, it’s a dangerous time here for me, but I try to restrict myself to only eating them on Sundays.

  8. What a picturesque trip – your photos are lovely! Since I’m “all about the food”, I was intrigued by your Swiss Sausage Salad and I had to look up a recipe. I’m sure I would have ordered it, too – it sounds as though it should have been tasty (albeit a bit odd). How disappointing that it wasn’t! I hope you had lots of other yummy meals as a consolation.

    • Hi Diane,

      No more Swiss sausage salads for me. If you know that we usually don’t eat processed meats (and not much meat in general), me actually ordering and buying (and spending 10 dollars) on this pile of cold, sliced Vienna sausage dish was a grave mistake. I had expected cooked sausage as it is known in North America sliced into a salad.

      Of course, I should have remembered the Vienna sausages in a can from my youth and the location of this city and made the link to “Swiss sausage”. So it was truly my mistake; wanting to try everything didn’t end too well. I even felt the meal was too gross to give to Maya!

  9. Wonderful! I love the city in the crater. How wild! So sorry that you didn’t get to tour the inside of the castle. It seems like many of the large estates here in the US do that too—charging for touring the grounds and extra for the inside. And I hate the ones that won’t let you take pictures inside!

    I love that you had so many wonderful views of these buildings. I hate going to a fun looking city only to find cars parked in front of the cute buildings.

    • Hi Duwan,

      Luckily, Europe has a lot of castles, so it’s all about locating and passing the one(s) that sounds interesting to see inside and with an affordable price tag. I’m sure it’ll happen one day. And, to be honest, I find castles and forts most visibly striking from the outside anyway and that’s usually free. 🙂

      In busy Europe, there are often cars parked in front of pretty buildings and murals. Strangely, even the narrow pedestrian areas have quite a bit of traffic, because there’s always a store owner arriving or a delivery truck pressing through.

  10. Your journey looked like a fairytale! I love all the colorful houses. Thanks for the mini tour. 😋

    • Hi Debby,

      I’m glad you liked my photos of the fairytale Bavarian towns. It was a nice diversion and visit for us, albeit a bit rushed. Maybe we will return for more discoveries, since our good friends live in that area.

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