Most of you already know that Mark, Maya, and I enjoy boondocking, also called wild or dry camping. This means we don’t utilize hook-ups (connection to electricity, water, and sewer), which are standard utilities at RV parks and most campgrounds. Not only is boondocking free (or affordable in official camping areas), but it provides us with privacy, space, and peace. We just love to spend our nights in solitude, surrounded by Mother Nature – a quiet environment, starry skies, the distant howl of coyotes.
Our RV has three tanks: fresh water for drinking, showering, dishes, and cooking; a “grey” tank to collect water going down the drains, and a “black” reservoir to collect contents from the toilet. We usually fill the fresh water tank and dump the others at dump stations. In Mexico, we buy our water at the “agua purificado” store. So, these essentials consist of the process “fill, use, dump, repeat.” But how about that other commodity called electricity? How do we collect and retain enough “juice” for our computer, lights, and few appliances? How do we manage to keep our devices charged when sitting still?
Ever since we owned our 35ft sailing catamaran Irie from 2007 to 2015, we have been fans of solar power. It allows us to be self-contained, free, and camp/anchor off the beaten path. If you are curious how that materializes in our current truck camper, Temp, please read on…
Mark and I recently installed an additional solar panel on the roof of our camper to augment the existing 160W panel that came with our “new” set-up. Last year, Mark built a 270Ah LifePO4 12V (Lithium) battery for Temp and we have been using that successfully for the past months. Our camper came with a Zamp Solar 160W roof-mounted solar panel and a Zamp Solar 30A PWM charge controller when we bought it last June. The charge controller does not work well with LifePO4 batteries, so changing that out was also on our to-do list to get the camper’s electrical system better prepared for full-time living.
We installed an additional 180W fixed solar panel from BougeRV (link here) to our existing roof rack. This avoided drilling new holes into the roof for the panel itself. We used the Z-bracket mounting hardware that BougeRV sells specifically for their panels, (see link here) which attached directly to the new 180W panel and then provided a horizontal surface to mount it on our roof rack. We also utilized their pass-thru gland for the new wiring into the camper from the roof (click link here), and received 30ft of 10AWG wire (see that link here).
It might not have been obvious in my previous blog posts, but Mark and I were antsy about returning to the Baja California peninsula of Mexico this winter, because we had a great time here last spring, meeting like-minded travelers and taking a welcome break after publishing a book. On this subsequent visit, we hoped to hang out with friends, explore this 1,000-mile narrow stretch of land a bit more, and relax on its many beaches. Our initial goal was to arrive in early December and stay until sometime in April.
Shell Beach vista
After multiple delays – trying to find jobs in Arizona, going to the dentist in Los Algodones, more camper projects in the desert, and a few important phone calls while still in the US with good cell service, we finally crossed the border into Baja on January 12th, six weeks later than planned. It was a good day! We had arrived back in Mexico and we could feel the stress and anxiety leave our bodies. Yet, we realized it would take a while to fully adjust to the life we intend to have: one of plenty adventures with a good balance between work and leisure, and plenty of walks for Maya.
On the access road to Shell Beach, 4WD is recommended
Parked at the end of the dirt road. We didn’t feel comfortable driving and camping on the soft-sand beach
Now that we have a 4WD vehicle (as opposed to our campervan Zesty, last year), more remote campsites are accessible and we feel that’s what a lot of Baja California is about: reaching peace and solitude surrounded by nature and the sea. One thing we noticed from the start, though, is that it’s much busier than last year. We were spoiled in 2021, when rarely a soul crossed into Mexico, and we often camped by ourselves.
A big shell!
Walking Maya on the pretty beach
Half an hour south of San Felipe is “Shell Beach” along the Sea of Cortez. This was our first stop and an awesome one. Miles and miles of empty beach, low dunes, gorgeous sunrises, clear night skies, and oh-so-quiet.
Sunrise on Shell Beach (Photo courtesy of Mark Kilty)
The empty beach runs for miles
The mountainous backdrop of our camping spot
Small dunes along the beach
A huge flock of pelicans on a sand spit at low tide
This post is not about resolutions, goals, plans, or gratitude. It’s not a bucket list (a word that is wrongly and over used in my opinion). It’s about what I have in mind regarding this blog, my online presence, and our upcoming adventures.
But first, I would like to wish everyone a healthy, prosperous, recovering, and adventurous new year. I truly hope that we will turn a leaf in 2022, on many fronts. Have a rewarding and happy one!
Roaming About blog
Like my previous website, It’s Irie, which I maintained from 2007 until 2015 to document our sailing adventures and which is still active, this blog (started in 2015) was initially meant to keep friends and family up to date about our whereabouts and whatabouts. But it turned into so much more than that! Thanks to you, dear reader.
It’s Irie blog
My blog’s main theme is travel related, so I want to get back to those roots. I hope to write more compelling posts – entertaining and informative – with a smaller selection of photos. This will be a work in progress. As always, I’ll update our current location in the sidebar.
While my writing journey has been a big part since I started this blog, it should not take up 25% of the content anymore. I wrote a book, edited it, published it, and promoted it. Not everyone is interested in all those details or experiences. I will still post updates, but not monthly anymore; maybe every other month or quarterly. January is the first time I skipped this tradition since the mid-2016.
The first box of Plunge books arrived in December 2020.
Proud of my first book, posing inside Zesty
Posing with my book in the desert of Arizona in 2021
The expense reports are fun to compose and seem to be well received. They also give me an opportunity to display places, occurrences, and photos that didn’t appear elsewhere, so I’ll keep them.
Income from this blog
Ever since I became a nomad in 2003, I’ve been very good at working for free or for a pittance. Yes, earning money should be fun too, but there has to be a balance. I’ve never placed ads or pop-ups on this blog (and never will as they annoy me as a reader) and only recently added a couple of affiliate Amazon links for my book, which offers pennies when used.
Working at my computer on our sailboat Irie (2007 – 2015)
Working at my computer in our campervan Zesty (2017-2021)
Writing Plunge in our campervan
Most of you have purchased Plungealready, left a review, and/or spread the word. My tremendous gratitude for all this support! I do hope new and future readers of Roaming About will (eventually) buy and read my book as well, so I’m keeping the little “prompts” on the sidebar of the website and bottom of certain post. As mentioned in my writing update blogs, I earn US$3.50 from every book I sell online.
Our hosting and domain fees total about $400 every three years. This month, it’s pay-up time again. We have always fronted this money, but because our living costs keep increasing, I’ve added a little “tip jar” on the sidebar in the form of a donation button. Followers have been encouraging us to put some kind of “support system” in place. Of course, unless on a laptop or with devices in the desktop setting, nobody will probably see the button. Can you find it? We have no need for contributions to a pizza, coffee, or beer fund; we’d just like to cover the cost for keeping this blog alive and maintained. We are also considering writing product reviews (like this solar panel one), being sponsored by companies, or becoming brand ambassadors as we embark on our next epic trip.
My blogging interactions
This blogging hobby, and especially reading (and engaging on) other blogs, is very time consuming. I think it’s safe to say that I follow about 50 bloggers and have been adamant over the years to read most of their posts and leave a comment. Since I’m curious about the host’s reply, I mark the checkbox to receive all comments, resulting in a flood of emails in my inbox. I’ve become pretty effective at deleting the masses and singling out the reply I was waiting for. Still, blogging is taking precious time away from real-life adventures, reading books (my current average is six a year!), writing, and trying to earn money. If I was retired and/or living in a stable home with not much going on, it would be different.
Rest assured, dear blog readers, my Roaming About website remains a priority. I still plan on posting about once a week and I always, always reply to comments (eventually) and react to legitimate emails sent my way.
Rest assured, dear blogging friends, I will keep following along and reading the articles that interest me. When I give your post a “like,” it means that I read it, and – well – liked it! My internet availability might prevent me from interacting much, but know you are still a part of my life.
My social media presence
And, what to do about social media, that other time-sucker? I’m taking a step back from Instagram (after three years of having an account, I gained a “whopping” 338 followers), hope to engage more with Twitter (how long have I been saying that?), and will keep using Facebook as my main “channel.” I also wonder if we shouldn’t try YouTube one day, but that is opening a can of very different, technical, timely, non-stop, and even more time-consuming worms!
Facebook page Liesbet
Facebook page Roaming About
Facebook page SV Irie
Instagram Page Roaming About
Twitter Page Liesbet
LinkedIn page Liesbet
Our lifestyle
If you know us and/or have read Plunge, you will be accustomed to our attitude of not planning much, going with the flow, and being a tad impulsive. As we get older, however, it feels like we need to be better prepared and organized. Gone are the days that we bought a truck camper – or a sailboat – and set out on an international adventure within months. How long have I wanted to take a small camper to South America? Plunge readers might remember…
Ready for new adventures
So, our big incentive is to get this open-ended adventure started in 2022. Of course, a lot depends on the pandemic situation, our choice/change of mobile living quarters, and preparing ourselves, our vehicle, our camper, and our dog for extensive and indefinite travels again. Stay tuned!
Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary
To be honest, I wanted to title this piece “Why We Don’t Like the Phoenix Area.” Yep, my sentiments are that strong and opinionated; we did not have a good time this last month. Life has its ups and downs. My apologies if I am offending anyone. This post is solely a personal statement and experience.
Saddle Mountain
Hiking on BLM land
Petroglyphs at Saddle Mountain
Yet, we found one redeeming quality of the Phoenix area: its public lands that have not been turned into housing developments, like Saddle Mountain BLM and White Tank Mountain Regional Park. Oh, and the weather was pretty nice the first half of December. Since then: cloudy and rainy skies. Quite unusual.
White Tank Mountain Regional Park
Petroglyphs at White Tank Mountain
White Tank waterfall
Pool near small waterfall after the Christmas rains
Sunset at White Tank Mountain Regional Park on Christmas day
As far as the RV park in Buckeye, where we spent one month of our lives: it was a place to stay, with water (salty), electricity (extra charge), WiFi (adequate, but it did drop out twice during important phone calls), and facilities like dumpsters for trash and recycling, laundromat (always busy and/because the majority of washing machines were broken), clean bathrooms (except when Mark found a human turd in one of the stalls), and a gym (closed by 9pm, so I had to plan around this during my night work).
Holiday spirit
Quite a few campers had lights and decorations up
Christmas in Buckeye!
Holiday cheer
Our neighbors joined in the festive spirit.
The biggest pros: a dog washing station, poopie bag dispensers, hot and pressurized showers, recycling options, unlimited juice for my computer, and a propane bottle refill.
Propane filling station – we did make use of this and the price was not exorbitant
Maya getting her second bath of the month – easy this way!
I really liked the fact that we could replace every used poopie bag!
Here is what we struggled with, just to get all the negativity out of my system before the new year and as a little warning for anyone ending up in a similar situation…
Most of you know that Mark and I are not retired. We live frugally as nomads – now on the road, previously on the water. We’ve been at that for over eighteen years. I’m a freelance writer, translator, editor, and photographer (and since last year author and book promotor). Regardless of his master’s degree in computer science, Mark picks up work along the way and ran a successful marine WiFi business for nine years. Because we are careful with our expenditures, we manage to maintain a less than ordinary lifestyle without working fulltime. Combining travel with eight to ten hours of work a day is extremely challenging and close to impossible – we do have experience with that while sailing.
These last months, you might have read between the lines that a higher cost of living, inflation, and the need of camper and truck improvements to prepare for travels abroad have been troubling us. For that reason, we decided to postpone our trip to Baja California, Mexico, and work in Arizona during the month of December. I would focus on more paid projects and book promo; Mark would apply for a job, locally. How hard could that be? You’ve all seen the “for hire” signs everywhere. And experienced how “nobody wants to work anymore.” And heard the rumors about businesses dying to find employees. Right? One thing is for sure, during the holiday season, many companies do need extra help.
It was mid-November 2021, when we found ourselves in the desert of Tucson, Arizona, and Mark uttered we’d spent $1,000 on fuel to drive across the country, still needed new tires for Thirsty (costing a similar amount), and that months of research and patience to find items on our list for a better price stopped being productive. Price tags online rarely drop anymore. “I need to find a job,” he decided.
The UPS delivery job
We preferred to stick around Tucson if at all possible, despite Phoenix offering more potential with its abundance of warehouses. Mark scanned hiring ads. Delivering packages for UPS with your own car appeared to be the most profitable temporary job. We could stay at our not ideal but free camping area on the edge of Tucson, separate the camper and truck, and make good money (over $20 an hour), plus a generous mileage reimbursement and a weekly bonus. All we had to do was “cover and secure” the bed of our pickup by buying a locking cover. Hours later, we remembered one vital part: our tailgate was still in Massachusetts. It had to be removed and stored for the camper to fit.
Storing our tailgate at a friend’s place in Massachusetts
The position of driver helper earned much less money ($15/hour, no bonus) and still required commuting, but Mark found one in the area that would work. The next day – as we figured out logistics – the job was gone. We needed a different approach.
The Amazon warehouse
Our attention turned to Amazon. Longtime readers might remember that Mark worked at an Amazon warehouse in Kentucky two years ago, with a program called CamperForce. Somebody was in charge of matching seasonal employees with Amazon and a campsite was included. This time, we were on our own. Mark filled out a job application online for an Amazon warehouse in Phoenix and was approved for a nightshift.
Then, we hunted for a campground. Near the Amazon fulfillment center. For a month. In RV central of the USA. During the busiest time of the year: snowbird season. We found two RV parks on Google somewhat close to Mark’s job site – one never answered the phone and didn’t reply to our message, the other (a trailer park) doesn’t allow truck campers! This boggles our mind, as we are as self-contained as any of the bigger rigs. It sure felt like discrimination…
We had heard good things about it – hot springs, hiking, off the beaten track. We had seen the green blot on maps – including the words “cliff dwellings” in small print. We’d driven south of it multiple times, crossing the country, not having time for a detour, thinking it would take ages on dirt roads to get there.
Gila National Forest
Until this fall. When we left Massachusetts in our new set-up, Mark wanted to stop in the Badlands of South Dakota and I was finally going to find Gila National Forest’s treasures in New Mexico. We made it happen in early November of this year. Unfortunately, we only had three nights to spare in this expansive area. Fortunately, we have the means to return.
(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Unexpected and fabulous viewpoint when we climb the roads of Gila National Forest
On top of the world
In true Liesbet and Mark fashion, we had no idea what to expect. There were the recommendations of friends and the attraction of the map, but that was the extent of our knowledge about Gila. We didn’t research and we didn’t look at photos ahead of time. This way, we are open-minded and malleable. It allows for genuine surprises and discovering new-to-us treasures. It avoids expectations and disappointments.
Welcome to New Mexico!
Cebolla Mesa
When we entered New Mexico, right across the border from Colorado, we stopped at a remote but free campground on Cebolla Mesa for a couple of nights. To our shock, we found ourselves on the edge of a deep canyon, carved out by the Rio Grande. Mark and Maya braved the steep 2.6 mile R/T descend and ascent (770ft elevation gain). I turned back after a few switchbacks, fearing a massive headache from the exertion.
Maya looks out into the Rio Grande valley
Well above the Rio Grande
Campground view
Not a bad spot – peaceful and pretty
Mark and Maya enjoying the sunshine along the edge of the canyon
Tiny campfire, just for the atmosphere
Mark and Maya hiked all the way down there (and back up).
Mark and Maya setting off to the bottom of the canyon
When Mark and I met Jon and Gail on a remote, gorgeous beach in Baja California, Mexico, this past spring, we hit it off immediately. Jon Crane is a renowned, accomplished, and outstanding painter and his lovely wife, Gail, had just published her book Mystic Travelers around the same time I released Plunge. The four of us had a lot to share – stories, food, drinks, and art.
Jon and Gail (who travel with their cat, Cosme) in front of their truck camper
Gail and Jon sign our copy of her book.
“Mystic Travelers” by Gail Crane
The couple spends half a year on the Baja peninsula in their truck camper and the other six months in the Black Hills of South Dakota, where they built an incredible home based on Jon’s vision and skills. Ever since I read about their place in Mystic and saw a photo of their unique house in Gail’s book, I’ve wanted to visit. So, when we found ourselves in the Badlands, two hours east of the Black Hills, we got in touch with our friends. Would they still be home mid-October or had they already left for Baja?
Exploring Badlands National Park with TT
Mark and Liesbet in the Badlands
We were in luck. Jon and Gail were still around for a couple of weeks and more than happy to see and host us. But there was one problem… They live in the middle of nowhere, deep into the black hills, and the first snowfall of the season had arrived when it rained in our neck of the woods. No worries. We’d amuse ourselves for a couple more days and assumed the snow would be melted when we ventured into the hills.
We stopped in Rapid City to do some shopping and say hi to a bunch of presidents.
(As always, hover over or click on images in galleries to read the captions.)
Mark looks for the president route on his phone.
President Barack Obama and one of his daughters
President George W. Bush
President Thomas Jefferson
President Franklin Roosevelt
President Harry Truman
President Martin Van Buren
Then, we left civilization and were greeted by this. Yikes.
Entering the Black Hills
What just happened?
Mark and I are warm-blooded humans. We don’t do well in cold weather and we certainly didn’t plan on seeing any of that white stuff when driving across the country, except, maybe, if and when crossing the mountain passes in Colorado!
The road condition deteriorated the further we drove.
Mark, Maya, and I have been back on the road in this new-to-us camper for two months now. It’s time to properly introduce our new set-up. I haven’t done this earlier, because the post would be on the longer side (and require a lot of time to create), we have been contemplating a name for the two components, and I wanted to get a feel for our home on wheels first. Some of you might have been wondering how our changed living quarters are working out, why we swapped modes of transportation/accommodation, or how a truck camper compares to a campervan.
Meet T&T
Picking names is difficult for me – my book title, our dog, our previous sailboats, the marine product we invented and developed. The decision process takes ages and the label has to be fitting. Mark and I really liked the name of our campervan, Zesty, which we sold in April of this year. Once we finally found the right truck (which we bought after the slide-in camper), more naming was in order.
(Hover over or click on photos to read their captions in galleries.)
Thirsty without cargo
The tailgate had to be removed (and stored) to fit the camper in the truck bed.
For reasons you might guess, we have decided to call our black Ford F350 short-bed, extended cab, 4X4 gasoline pickup truck Thirsty. If you’ve followed our current expense reports, you would agree this is a suitable name for a vehicle of this caliber. Of course, our truck – like us – is thirsty for adventure and freedom as well.
Temp disconnected & rebuilding the truck camper frame in Newburyport, MA – take 1
It might come as a surprise that our nuCamp Cirrus 820 is not our ideal camper to take to South America. I’ll elaborate on why later, but we have been on the look-out for another truck camper (a Northstar Arrow U) for seven months. Because our current camper is supposed to be a temporary solution, the in-between version, we are calling it Temp. This particular brand and model – modern, streamlined, and fancy – was very tempting to buy and our #2 on the list. Add to that, that all campers can be temperamental… Since irony plays a big role in my life, I wouldn’t be surprised if we eventually end up keeping Temp, needing to explain its name with sarcasm. There is a lot to love about him.
Rebuilding the truck camper frame at a Home Depot in Albuquerque, NM – take 2
We approach Badlands National Park mid-afternoon, after crossing the width of South Dakota. The burning question: do we buy the $80 annual National Park pass (what we usually have) or a 7-day ticket for $30? We’ve been doing without a pass for over a year. We are leaving the country soon. It’s nice to be covered “everywhere” and sometimes get discounts on camping, though. But, we usually camp for free anyway. If we have to spend another summer in the US (instead of heading to South America in 2022), we will need and use the pass… “We either lose $50 or we lose $30,” Mark says, “Your choice.” Life has become very expensive on the road. Eighty dollars is a lot of money. We buy the week-long entrance ticket.
That’s when we realize we didn’t even check the pet rules… A quick search online reveals that dogs are not allowed on ANY trails. As a matter of fact, they aren’t even allowed at the look-outs. Pets are only welcome to walk around in campgrounds and parking lots. Great! Did we just waste $30?
I go for a short walk. Mark is annoyed and takes Maya around the parking lot. We drive through a small part of the park to our first free campsite for the night, in Buffalo Gaps National Grassland. Much more dog-friendly!
We crest a little hill and pick a flat spot among smaller badland humps. Because of the underground (sticky clay and sand), you don’t want to park here during rain. Many cars and campers have gotten stuck here, doing just that. But, there is no rain in the forecast, so we should be fine!
After New York’s natural beauty, more wonder – of a very different kind – befell me when Mark, Maya, and I approached the skyline of Chicago, Illinois. Yes, I had set foot upon its grounds twice before. Once on a wintry layover from Belgium, never venturing further than a hotel room after missing my connecting flight, and once a couple of years ago, when we swung by our friends Keith and Kavita’s home on the outskirts of the city. But I had never witnessed its majestic architectural beauty, strolled its waterfront, or parked in its quirky neighborhoods.
Chicago skyline
When our long-anticipated departure from Newburyport, Massachusetts, approached, Mark and I had to pick a route, or, at the very least, a first destination. We prefer a northern track across the United States for its scenic appeal, but we hate cold weather. Everything was dependent on when exactly we could start our journey. Luckily, that happened in mid-September and not October like last year, when a southern approach was required. So, we stated, “As long as the weather holds, we will stick to a northern course.” As I write this, we still haven’t made any southward progress! Soon…
Our goal was Chicago, a city I had heard a lot of positives about but never visited, and a place where three sets of friends would be located at the end of September… Our trio stayed in the city for four nights and had a jolly good time, without spending a dime!* ????
(Click on the photos or hover over them to read the captions in galleries.)
Approaching Chicago
Big cities mean lots of traffic…
Six tips for a free “long weekend” in Chi Town:
1.Stick to outdoor sights and activities
We easily filled a few days by checking out Lake Michigan – with a long waterfront bike/walking trail – and several areas in downtown. The first day, we walked all the way from Lincoln Park to Navy Pier and returned via skyscraper heaven.
Chicago borders Lake Michigan
Walk along the lakefront
Entering Navy Pier
Lighthouse at the edge of Chicago Harbor
The skyline seen from Navy Pier
A little break at the end of the pier
The Ferris Wheel (Centennial Wheel) on Navy Pier is an icon in Chicago. No, we didn’t go for a ride – too expensive and no dogs allowed.
Roaming About – Liesbet Collaert & Mark Kilty & Maya
We have been perpetual nomads as RVers, sailors, house and pet sitters, and overlanders since 2003. Currently, the three of us are roaming about South America in our truck camper Thirsty Bella.
As lifetime adventurers, we are self-employed and maintain a tight budget. This blog is about all that – and more – to inspire a life less ordinary. Don’t dream but do! 🙂
