Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Places (page 7 of 23)

Back in Baja (Kind of) – A Week of Dunes, Drives & Decisions

It might not have been obvious in my previous blog posts, but Mark and I were antsy about returning to the Baja California peninsula of Mexico this winter, because we had a great time here last spring, meeting like-minded travelers and taking a welcome break after publishing a book. On this subsequent visit, we hoped to hang out with friends, explore this 1,000-mile narrow stretch of land a bit more, and relax on its many beaches. Our initial goal was to arrive in early December and stay until sometime in April.

Shell Beach vista

After multiple delays – trying to find jobs in Arizona, going to the dentist in Los Algodones, more camper projects in the desert, and a few important phone calls while still in the US with good cell service, we finally crossed the border into Baja on January 12th, six weeks later than planned. It was a good day! We had arrived back in Mexico and we could feel the stress and anxiety leave our bodies. Yet, we realized it would take a while to fully adjust to the life we intend to have: one of plenty adventures with a good balance between work and leisure, and plenty of walks for Maya.

Now that we have a 4WD vehicle (as opposed to our campervan Zesty, last year), more remote campsites are accessible and we feel that’s what a lot of Baja California is about: reaching peace and solitude surrounded by nature and the sea. One thing we noticed from the start, though, is that it’s much busier than last year. We were spoiled in 2021, when rarely a soul crossed into Mexico, and we often camped by ourselves.

Half an hour south of San Felipe is “Shell Beach” along the Sea of Cortez. This was our first stop and an awesome one. Miles and miles of empty beach, low dunes, gorgeous sunrises, clear night skies, and oh-so-quiet.

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What We (Dis)Like about Western Phoenix, Arizona

To be honest, I wanted to title this piece “Why We Don’t Like the Phoenix Area.” Yep, my sentiments are that strong and opinionated; we did not have a good time this last month. Life has its ups and downs. My apologies if I am offending anyone. This post is solely a personal statement and experience.

Yet, we found one redeeming quality of the Phoenix area: its public lands that have not been turned into housing developments, like Saddle Mountain BLM and White Tank Mountain Regional Park. Oh, and the weather was pretty nice the first half of December. Since then: cloudy and rainy skies. Quite unusual.

As far as the RV park in Buckeye, where we spent one month of our lives: it was a place to stay, with water (salty), electricity (extra charge), WiFi (adequate, but it did drop out twice during important phone calls), and facilities like dumpsters for trash and recycling, laundromat (always busy and/because the majority of washing machines were broken), clean bathrooms (except when Mark found a human turd in one of the stalls), and a gym (closed by 9pm, so I had to plan around this during my night work).

The biggest pros: a dog washing station, poopie bag dispensers, hot and pressurized showers, recycling options, unlimited juice for my computer, and a propane bottle refill.

Here is what we struggled with, just to get all the negativity out of my system before the new year and as a little warning for anyone ending up in a similar situation…

Why we don’t like Buckeye and Goodyear

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Discoveries in New Mexico – Gila National Forest

We had heard good things about it – hot springs, hiking, off the beaten track. We had seen the green blot on maps – including the words “cliff dwellings” in small print. We’d driven south of it multiple times, crossing the country, not having time for a detour, thinking it would take ages on dirt roads to get there.

Gila National Forest

Until this fall. When we left Massachusetts in our new set-up, Mark wanted to stop in the Badlands of South Dakota and I was finally going to find Gila National Forest’s treasures in New Mexico. We made it happen in early November of this year. Unfortunately, we only had three nights to spare in this expansive area. Fortunately, we have the means to return.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)

In true Liesbet and Mark fashion, we had no idea what to expect. There were the recommendations of friends and the attraction of the map, but that was the extent of our knowledge about Gila. We didn’t research and we didn’t look at photos ahead of time. This way, we are open-minded and malleable. It allows for genuine surprises and discovering new-to-us treasures. It avoids expectations and disappointments.

Welcome to New Mexico!

Cebolla Mesa

When we entered New Mexico, right across the border from Colorado, we stopped at a remote but free campground on Cebolla Mesa for a couple of nights. To our shock, we found ourselves on the edge of a deep canyon, carved out by the Rio Grande. Mark and Maya braved the steep 2.6 mile R/T descend and ascent (770ft elevation gain). I turned back after a few switchbacks, fearing a massive headache from the exertion.

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Snowy Encounter in Mystic, SD – An Artist’s Sanctuary in the Black Hills

When Mark and I met Jon and Gail on a remote, gorgeous beach in Baja California, Mexico, this past spring, we hit it off immediately. Jon Crane is a renowned, accomplished, and outstanding painter and his lovely wife, Gail, had just published her book Mystic Travelers around the same time I released Plunge. The four of us had a lot to share – stories, food, drinks, and art.

The couple spends half a year on the Baja peninsula in their truck camper and the other six months in the Black Hills of South Dakota, where they built an incredible home based on Jon’s vision and skills. Ever since I read about their place in Mystic and saw a photo of their unique house in Gail’s book, I’ve wanted to visit. So, when we found ourselves in the Badlands, two hours east of the Black Hills, we got in touch with our friends. Would they still be home mid-October or had they already left for Baja?

We were in luck. Jon and Gail were still around for a couple of weeks and more than happy to see and host us. But there was one problem… They live in the middle of nowhere, deep into the black hills, and the first snowfall of the season had arrived when it rained in our neck of the woods. No worries. We’d amuse ourselves for a couple more days and assumed the snow would be melted when we ventured into the hills.

We stopped in Rapid City to do some shopping and say hi to a bunch of presidents.

(As always, hover over or click on images in galleries to read the captions.)

Then, we left civilization and were greeted by this. Yikes.

Mark and I are warm-blooded humans. We don’t do well in cold weather and we certainly didn’t plan on seeing any of that white stuff when driving across the country, except, maybe, if and when crossing the mountain passes in Colorado!

The road condition deteriorated the further we drove.

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Five Days in the Badlands of South Dakota – A Photo Story of Spectacular Scenery & Wandering Wildlife (& a Daring Dog)

Day One

We approach Badlands National Park mid-afternoon, after crossing the width of South Dakota. The burning question: do we buy the $80 annual National Park pass (what we usually have) or a 7-day ticket for $30? We’ve been doing without a pass for over a year. We are leaving the country soon. It’s nice to be covered “everywhere” and sometimes get discounts on camping, though. But, we usually camp for free anyway. If we have to spend another summer in the US (instead of heading to South America in 2022), we will need and use the pass… “We either lose $50 or we lose $30,” Mark says, “Your choice.” Life has become very expensive on the road. Eighty dollars is a lot of money. We buy the week-long entrance ticket.

That’s when we realize we didn’t even check the pet rules… A quick search online reveals that dogs are not allowed on ANY trails. As a matter of fact, they aren’t even allowed at the look-outs. Pets are only welcome to walk around in campgrounds and parking lots. Great! Did we just waste $30?

I go for a short walk. Mark is annoyed and takes Maya around the parking lot. We drive through a small part of the park to our first free campsite for the night, in Buffalo Gaps National Grassland. Much more dog-friendly!

We crest a little hill and pick a flat spot among smaller badland humps. Because of the underground (sticky clay and sand), you don’t want to park here during rain. Many cars and campers have gotten stuck here, doing just that. But, there is no rain in the forecast, so we should be fine!

We take Maya for a walk and then this happens…

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How to Visit Chicago for Free (in a Small Camper) – Skylines & Social Times

After New York’s natural beauty, more wonder – of a very different kind – befell me when Mark, Maya, and I approached the skyline of Chicago, Illinois. Yes, I had set foot upon its grounds twice before. Once on a wintry layover from Belgium, never venturing further than a hotel room after missing my connecting flight, and once a couple of years ago, when we swung by our friends Keith and Kavita’s home on the outskirts of the city. But I had never witnessed its majestic architectural beauty, strolled its waterfront, or parked in its quirky neighborhoods.

Chicago skyline

When our long-anticipated departure from Newburyport, Massachusetts, approached, Mark and I had to pick a route, or, at the very least, a first destination. We prefer a northern track across the United States for its scenic appeal, but we hate cold weather. Everything was dependent on when exactly we could start our journey. Luckily, that happened in mid-September and not October like last year, when a southern approach was required. So, we stated, “As long as the weather holds, we will stick to a northern course.” As I write this, we still haven’t made any southward progress! Soon…

Our goal was Chicago, a city I had heard a lot of positives about but never visited, and a place where three sets of friends would be located at the end of September… Our trio stayed in the city for four nights and had a jolly good time, without spending a dime!* ????

(Click on the photos or hover over them to read the captions in galleries.)

Six tips for a free “long weekend” in Chi Town:

1. Stick to outdoor sights and activities

We easily filled a few days by checking out Lake Michigan – with a long waterfront bike/walking trail – and several areas in downtown. The first day, we walked all the way from Lincoln Park to Navy Pier and returned via skyscraper heaven.

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New York Surprises – Waterfall Extravaganza!

“Where are you going first?”

This is not a weird question at all, when you talk to people hitting the road indefinitely. And the poser of said question might get annoyed with the ever-present “We don’t know yet” answer coming from our mouths.

But, first things first; Mark and I had to take care of a few specifics before an actual destination could be determined. Once our departure from Newburyport became imminent – the truck camper was taking shape, the bikes didn’t fall of the new ladder rack, help was in place for my in-laws, ties with friends and family were rekindled, and personal projects reached a stopping point – we could finally look at a map.

Two days before we coasted out of the driveway with our dog, Maya, and our belongings, Mark and I decided to head towards Chicago, Illinois, after visiting a couple of friends in Massachusetts and New York. I contacted three sets of friends in the Windy City, aka Chi-Town, to gauge their availability and location for a meet-up. Then, on September 17th, 2021, the three of us left Newburyport for the last time with a new-to-us vehicle and – somewhat of – a plan!

A quick, one-night stop at good friends in Uxbridge, MA, was followed by a Saturday night visit to a work friend of Mark’s in New York, who cooked his staple meat-loaden pasta sauce for us, following an amazing family recipe.

It was on Sunday, when our trip west was to start in earnest, that we realized we weren’t in a rush anymore. Why hurry to Chicago? We’d returned to our own home, our own routine, our own lives, our own priorities. We were our own boss again with few responsibilities! And, the weather was unseasonably pleasant with temperatures in the mid-70s Fahrenheit (mid-20s Celsius).

“Let’s explore New York a bit,” I exclaimed. A state so close by, yet so far away, as I’d never actually ventured into upstate New York for any length of time, other than quick visits – to our friend Sean and Mark’s college town Troy once, when on one of our many road trips across the USA.

(As always, click on or hover over photos to read captions.)

Schenectady

Mark grew up in Schenectady. I’m pretty good at spelling, but when he challenged me with this one years ago, I miserably failed. To make matters worse, Mark also lived in Niskayuna, a town to its east. I still have to look up how to write that one. But, I’m happy to say that I finally visited both cities, thanks to our friend Sean, who offered us a quick tour, that Sunday of our “real departure.”

While both men convinced me there is “nothing to see” in Schenectady, I enjoyed a stroll through the Stockade, an 82-acre historic district located on the banks of the Mohawk River. It is the oldest neighborhood in the city and has been continuously inhabited for more than 300 years. The National Park Service describes it as “the highest concentration of historic period homes in the country.” It is here that Mark’s parents used to own a house, while their son attended college and lived on campus nearby.

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Three-week Visit to Belgium – Vacation or Not?

What is considered a vacation? Getting on a plane? Traveling to a tropical destination? Crossing the border? Visiting friends and family? Taking a road trip to the other side of the country? Staying at a hotel?

I have done all these things and I can guarantee that none of them resulted in a vacation. Mark and I have been together since December of 2004; that’s almost seventeen years. Even though we have lived a life less ordinary, in many different countries, the two of us have NEVER been on a typical vacation together (or apart) since we met. I know this is hard to believe and/or grasp by people who don’t know us well…

My plane from Boston to Reykjavik

The closest we have come to anything like a medley of peace, exploration, and relaxation without worries is a three-day city trip to Budapest in 2017 and two months of “living off the grid” in Baja last winter (this one still involved work, book promo, and the necessary stress that we seem to incur).

Based on all that, I have decided that the best way for me to describe “a vacation” is when I am able to leave my computer behind. Yep, that’s right. Not take my computer on a trip. How is that possible? I have a monthly editing job, receive occasional translation assignments, need to promote Plunge, write blogs on my laptop, save photos in folders on my computer, and have my important information (including passwords which I could never remember) stored on its hard drive. I actually considered this drastic act for my recent three-week visit to Belgium. (I really craved a vacation.) And … decided against it. That’s just too long without my most important electronic buddy.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos to read the captions.)

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Monthly Expenses – April 2021 (& Another Cross-Country Road Trip)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Mark and I sold Zesty last month! If you missed that post, read it here.

Apologies for the late expense report, but I wanted to update everyone about the sale of our camper van first, as it impacts everything we do. We are homeless and carless since April 3rd and rented a vehicle to drive back to Massachusetts, a trip that cost us about $1,000.

Once we removed the bike bag, our ride was smoother.

On hindsight, we should have driven Zesty. It would have saved us a bunch of money and interest was strong enough for a potential buyer to pick the van up on the opposite coast. Also, knowing what we know now – that finding a suitable truck is close to impossible unless we are okay spending $10K more than pre-inflation rates two months ago – we might have held on to our home on wheels a bit longer. Oh well.

April was a decent month, taking the pricey road trip – car rental, four dog-friendly Motel 6 nights, and gasoline to drive over 3,000 miles –  into account. We mostly prepared our own meals, even though this was tricky with the early starts, windy conditions, and not having our own kitchen anymore. It made our days on the road even longer.

The grocery category is quite high, because we pretty much ate everything in the camper before we sold it and had to re-provision from scratch once we arrived in Newburyport, MA. We contributed some money to the water fund of our friends in Arizona and ordered dog food and vitamins ahead of our arrival.

The food prep and storage zone in our current room

The car expense was off-set because we received a refund for part of our cancelled camper insurance. Also, $288 for a one-way, one-week rental with unlimited miles is cheap. I commend Mark once more for his research abilities and always finding the best prices for anything we need. We purposefully left gear in Zesty for the new owners, so the camper was turnkey. This means we have to buy those items again, now (like a new router) and later (solar panels, outdoor mat, leveling blocks, …).

I mentioned last week that I would touch on our five-day cross-country drive in this expense report. There really is not much to share: it was a hellish 3,200-mile ride of 10-12 hours in the car, each day. Stops were made to let Maya pee, eat lunch, get fuel, adjust the flimsy bike rack, shop for food, fetch or prepare dinner, work, and sleep.

Me, catching up on work at night

Plus, we made a detour to Arkansas to check out two truck campers. I didn’t have enough space in the passenger seat to work on my computer, so I mostly vegged, listened to music, and consulted my iPad.

Here are a few notes I took:

  • We should have stuck with the full-size car. What were we thinking to downgrade and pay extra when booking our transport method for the week?
  • All our belongings fit! Barely… But, we didn’t have to leave anything behind, except four rolls of toilet paper. Did you know small, 4-packs are not readily available anymore after the Covid outbreak? We had to buy a 12-pack in Zesty. Where to store all that?
  • Our sturdy swing-out bike rack had to be disassembled. It didn’t fit in the trunk, but we managed to lay it behind the seats on the ground. Not much else fit in those foot wells.
  • Maya needed half of the back seat. All okay. We made it comfy with blankets, pillows, and her dog bed.
  • The new bike rack attached to the trunk is crappy — we bought one for three bikes and luckily our electric bikes fit after lots of trial and error. Alas, it needs to be adjusted every time we stop as the straps keep loosening up.
  • This Nissan has no power. (Another reason why a full-size car would have been a better option – a stronger engine.)
  • First day: over 3,000rpm constantly. Struggled to keep up the maximum highway speed. After removing the bike bag, things settled down and the ride was smoother. Then, we had to also store the big bag.
  • The fuel tank only holds 10 gallons, so we have to stop at a gas station two or three times a day! (Another reason why a full-size car would have been a better option – a bigger gas tank.)
  • We are so low by the ground. Every car that passes us is higher!

Most people need a U-Haul truck to transport their belongings!

  • Uncomfortable seats.
  • Where is the car parked on the lot of the supermarket? Hard to find! It’s a non-distinct white rental car…
  • We put the bike bag back at night, so nobody could see the bikes. Luckily, we managed to park in front of our motel doors.
  • We stay at Motel 6. Nothing fancy and often run down, but the cheapest place to stay with pets (no extra fee). Prices per night ranged from $45 (Tucumcari, NM) to $65 (Calvert City, KY).
  • No shampoo provided in motels? Ours is packed in the trunk, underneath the rack and bikes. No way of getting in there. We make due, washing our hair with soap (Mark) or dish soap (me). If you read Plunge, you know I have practice with that. 🙂 Just like we made due when needing our sheets hidden in there, staying at a friend’s casita for the night.
  • Windy in New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma. Hard to make breakfast and lunch! We miss Zesty for that. And for human potty breaks.

A nice picnic area to eat lunch

  • The picnic areas in Oklahoma were filthy! No trash cans, so garbage everywhere. No toilets either. Broken glass. No spot for Maya to rest without getting hurt. We couldn’t stay for lunch.
  • The radio has issues.
  • The glove compartment door is open on the sides so things get pinched (like my sunglasses) or plainly fall out, each time I open the little door.
  • The fuel gauge didn’t work at the end, so we filled the tank instead of aiming for the amount we received the car with.
  • Because I couldn’t be added to our car rental agreement without paying a steep fee, Mark drove the entire 3,200 miles!

Arizona license plate in Massachusetts – not a common sight. Where is the desert?

But, we made it to Newburyport, Massachusetts, in one piece. The bikes did get scuffed up, however.

Stay tuned for the continuation of our truck search saga!

April 2021 Overview:

Groceries:

Travel (rental car):

Car (fuel: $377; tolls: $40; REFUND: $138):

Accommodation (motels):

Household (bike rack, battery parts):

Computer (new router):

Utilities (internet: $35; water: $25):

Health & Fitness (vitamins):

Dining out (road trip):

Dog (food):

Medical (co-pay meds):

Alcohol:

 

TOTAL:

 

$427

$288

$279

$217

$83

$61

$60

$49

$44

$38

$9

$6

———

$ 1,561

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

I submitted this post to Natalie’s Weekend Coffee Share #20 link-up.

Missed Opportunities in Baja – Busy Behind the Scenes

If you have been following my blog, you know that Mark, Maya, and I recently spent two months in Baja California, Mexico, traveling around in our campervan, Zesty. So far, I have been sharing the fun experiences and why we love the Mulegé (and Bahia Concepcion) area so much. Just how much will become clear in this post. While it appears that we just bummed around beaches, watched whales, and explored a couple of towns, most of our time in Baja was dedicated to other, unexpected pursuits.

Maya relaxing at the beach

The dogfood saga

Before we left the US, Mark and I had bought one 30-pound bag of dogfood for Maya, as always. It’s not that we could have carried more in our well-stocked and filled-to-the-brim 19ft home on wheels. We had no idea how long we’d be in Mexico and were fully aware of her food potentially running out. We will find decent dogfood somewhere on the peninsula, we thought.

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