Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Sightseeing (page 15 of 20)

Canyons, Dead-ends, and Lessons Learned

May 28, 2019 / / 47 Comments

The Plan

Things don’t always go as planned. Not that we plan often. But after our exhausting house sit in Albuquerque, the idea was to spend a couple of days at a quiet, free campground in El Malpais National Monument, drive to Canyon de Chelly to spend a day hiking and sightseeing, move to the Hopi Reservation in Navajo Nation for an affordable tour and a free night at the Cultural Center, and visit the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. That park opens on May 15th every year and—reputedly—has smaller crowds than the well-trotted South Rim. Our temporary end destination would be Kanab, Utah to volunteer at the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary for two weeks. (Click on or hover over the photos to read the captions.)

Panorama from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Albuquerque, NM

But… two important packages—to fix an engine problem in Zesty—refused to arrive as scheduled, before our departure from Albuquerque. Mark did all he could to reroute them to Kanab. Everything seemed in order; we left for some rest in El Malpais, an hour and a half west of the city. Luckily, we picked up a cell signal with AT&T there (we never did with our previous carrier T-Mobile). After a cold yet peaceful night, both packages were to be delivered at our pet sitting address, that Saturday. In awful weather, we returned to the house. The USPS parcel had arrived by 11am, but we waited for the UPS package until 4:30pm; it was the last stop on his route! We drove until 7:30pm to make a little bit of headway in the right direction and “urban camped” in Gallup, NM. Detour: three hours.

Campsite El Malpais NM
Stormy weather
Free night in the parking lot of Cracker Barrel in Gallup, NM – not the quietest place

Lessons learned: Don’t believe everything is in order, until it actually is! And, don’t venture too far away if packages are “in transit”.

Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Canyon de Shay), AZ

One of the most rewarding experiences of having no expectations is arriving at a new destination and being awed. We rekindled with that feeling we discovered in Bryce Canyon and Arches National Parks last year, in Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Navajo Nation, Arizona. This park is free! Staring into the canyon the first time, we found vertical walls, branched off side canyons, a meandering river, and a lush valley.

Canyon de Chelly NM

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Where Utah and Arizona Meet

May 8, 2019 / / 52 Comments

As Mark and I wrap up our five-week house sit in Albuquerque, New Mexico, it is more than time for me to wrap up my blog posts about our explorations in Zesty before that.

Driving through inspiring landscapes

What follows is a series of snapshots of fascinating areas, which didn’t make it in previous posts. Northern Arizona and Southern Utah—it was often not clear in which state we were hiking, camping, or sightseeing—have so much to offer in terms of natural beauty (and an animal sanctuary) that we are returning soon.

Horseshoe Bend
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Kicked out of Monument Valley – Bikers Beware

April 28, 2019 / / 55 Comments

Ever since seeing photos of Monument Valley (was it on a calendar, a poster, in a guide book?) years ago, I’ve wanted to visit this Tribal Park in Navajo Nation. So, when Mark and I left Southwestern Utah to drive to a house sit in Albuquerque, New Mexico, we decided to make the detour and explore this park on the Utah-Arizona border. We read that the 17-mile loop drive is in horrible condition and that biking is the best way to see and experience the sites. Perfect! We’d taken Zesty on enough rocky roads lately.

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Catching “The Wave” Means Winning the Lottery

April 24, 2019 / / 53 Comments

“Will you try to go to The Wave when you’re there,” fellow travelers kept asking us as they learned about our plans to visit the Lake Powel area in Northern Arizona. Mark and I had never heard about it, so said, “Maybe.” We rarely plan and certainly not weeks ahead of time. We knew the surroundings of the lake were pretty from Ingrid’s blog and that was it.

When a “Good luck!” followed, we wondered why luck is involved to hike to a sandstone formation. Apparently, there is a lottery involved. “Over 100 people a day apply,” a new friend told us. Hard to believe and it was still too cold to head north, so we kept The Wave in the back of our mind. As more and more people either raved about this destination or wished they could have hiked there, it was time for a quick Google search.

The Wave
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Sedona Surprises

April 17, 2019 / / 56 Comments

Sedona, Arizona is one of those places we had heard a lot of praise for but knew nothing about. Our Lonely Planet USA – a big book about a big country – mentions that Sedona is “nestled amid striking red sandstone formations,” is “the center of ‘vortexes’,” and “offers outstanding hiking.” Partial to hiking in beautiful scenery, we decided to make the detour. This also allowed us to check off a few things on our to-do list in Prescott, make a pit stop in the old mining town of Jerome, and climb up to Flagstaff in order to pick up our initial route. I’ve reported on these destinations here.

View from the Templeton Trail

(As always, click on the photos for enlarged versions or click/hover to read the captions.)

Camping

We’d read on iOverlander about a plethora of boondocking sites in Cococino National Forest, about eight miles NW of Sedona. We started on the bumpy dirt road from the west. Much to our surprise, it was extremely busy with campers. Five miles in, we finally scored the most incredible site and we discovered that there was a quicker way out. We spent three free nights here to explore this side of the city.

Our campsite in Cococino NF
View from our site in Cococino NF
Like Albuquerque, Sedona is popular with hot air balloons
This balloon landed on the dirt road next to our camping area.
So much to see and do in Sedona!

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Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in Arizona

April 13, 2019 / / 44 Comments

No matter how you look at it, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is out of the way. Bordering Mexico, it’s a detour from the most southern highway (I-8 hitting I-10), which is why we never paid a visit before. Plus, there is no cell service in the park. Being so close to Mexico on the other hand, encouraged us to jump across for Mark’s birthday weekend early March.

But before that, we found a quiet, beautiful, and free campsite north of the park boundary – with cell service – and spent a few days exploring this desert park. Our annual National Park pass covered the $25 entrance fee.

Roomy and level campsite
Imagine this river bed – a wash – actually filled with roaring water…
Someone had left a decent amount of firewood. Easy enough to make a campfire and warm up!

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Slab City, CA – Friend or Foe?

March 22, 2019 / / 51 Comments

If you live in California, you might have heard about Slab City, a free-for-all community of squatters – mostly in RVs (Recreational Vehicles) – in the middle of the Southeastern California desert. The area is an abandoned military base with leftover concrete “slabs,” where rules don’t exist. It has quite the bad reputation, especially by people who have never been there.

I first learned about Slab City when watching “Into the Wild” (directed by Sean Penn and released in 2007). This true story about 20-something Chris McCandless searching for freedom and the meaning of life, was written by Jon Krakauer in 1996 and later turned into a movie. Slab City was briefly featured in this tale, which resonates with me and has my favorite soundtrack (by Eddie Vedder from Pearl Jam).

Boondocking on the edge of Slab City – the muddy hot springs here didn’t look appealing
Approaching Slab City
Slab City appears like a wasteland. The gloomy weather sure contributed to that.
Vendors along the side of the road
Slab City “city limits”
Church of Slab City

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Wordless Wednesday – The Madonna Inn

February 13, 2019 / / 52 Comments

Three months ago, Mark and I visited the Madonna Inn, which is a vintage hotel in San Luis Obispo (SLO), CA. Built and ran by the legendary businessman Alex Madonna, it has kept its fascinating late-fifties decor. Ready to travel back in time?

Sign along the highway
Main lodge
The bakery section is famous for its cakes.
Boots and bar stools
Restaurant area – yes, it was before Christmas
Little alleys and shops everywhere inside.
Banquet/dining room
Pink dominates!
The owner and builder Alex Madonna
The wine cellar
Women’s bathroom
Men’s bathroom

The history of this unique establishment can be found here.

This is my contribution for Wordless Wednesday.

Have you ever visited or stayed in a place like the Madonna Inn?

California Desert Escape

January 13, 2019 / / 55 Comments

What do you do when you feel like you’re overstaying your welcome at a friend’s house in San Diego (and you have a husband antsy to return to nature and could use a little break from memoir work yourself)? You pack up, jump in your camper van, and head into the California desert for a couple of days. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is huge. You opt for the Borrego Springs area as an initiation to this region since you don’t have much time.

Zesty on desert roads

You boondock in solitude and under a million stars.

Hawk Canyon
First use of my selfie stick! 🙂
Spotting another Westy! Her name is Thistle and we chatted with the owners until nightfall.
Quiet spot in the desert
Sunrise in the desert

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2018 at a Glance – Our Roaming Highlights

December 26, 2018 / / 56 Comments

When I started following my travel passion over two decades ago, my friends were curious about how I could pull it off financially. The answer: all my allowances (as a teenager and college kid) and later my wages were saved up in order to explore the world. As I (unintentionally) became a full-time nomad in 2003, peers and strangers were still apprehensive; some of them even a bit jealous.

Then, as I kept documenting my lifestyle, first through email reports in Dutch, then in Dutch and English, and eventually via my blogs It’s Irie and Roaming About, comprehension set in. I’ve always written about the good and the bad of this lifestyle and offer a glimpse into our monthly expenses. More people “get it” now, and their “I wish I could do what you’re doing” has turned into “It’s awesome how you are living, but I couldn’t do it.” There’s the family, the routines, the job satisfaction, the comfort of home, the different priorities. I get it too.

Whether you are an armchair traveler or a fellow nomad, I hope you are still interested in the content and photos on Roaming About – A Life Less Ordinary and that you continue to follow along as Mark and I set out towards new horizons in the new year. Thank you so much for being here, for reading, commenting or offering us mental support and comfort to keep living the life less ordinary. Without further ado: here are the highlights of our last year in the United States and beyond. I’ve added links to previous posts where applicable. My 2017 overview post can be found here.

January 2018

The year didn’t start too well with my mother-in-law requiring a second brain surgery and her hard road to recovery. Mark and I flew back to Massachusetts from California to help out, after finding a replacement house sitter for those two weeks. Six months later, she was back to her old self. Amazing at 82!

Flying from Southern California to Massachusetts was a shock.
Ice on the river in Newburyport
Carol receiving “get well” cards
The road to recovery was hard
Mark and I are glad we could help out
Winter sun above Boston

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