After our tour of waterfalls, lakes, and hot springs in Northern Ecuador, Mark, Maya, and I checked out one more campground, a potential refuge for me when my husband left for the US. We enjoyed the company of Fernando and Evelyn and the center of Puembo, so kept it as an option.
As a matter of fact, our two-day trip into Quito was squeezed between “skinny” campground stays. I wanted to get my bearings at Hostal Colibri, which sounded promising in iOverlander at only 10 minutes from the aeropuerto. But this meant planes landed over our heads, similar to our Point Loma experience on a three-month house sit stint in San Diego, California. Because of that fact – and the price – we ruled this option out!
No way, Mark and I were going to take our “massive” truck camper Thirsty Bella into the center of Quito. Instead, we stored it at a campground under construction, with an amazing view over the city. We paid $8 to leave our home on wheels there, safe and sound. Staying here as campers would set us back way too much money ($10 per person, officially), so we didn’t even consider it.
Why Quito?
There was no doubt that we wanted to visit the historical center of Quito one day, without driving there. When we learned that our motorcycle friends Katherine and Brandon were leaving their vehicles near the border in Colombia and flying out of Ecuador’s capital for a summer stint in the US, the deal was sealed. We would spend their last two nights on the continent together and split an Airbnb.
Four friends reunited at the Airbnb in Quito
Our Airbnb
Well, what can I say? Mark and I did try to find a more modest apartment to rent for those two nights, but they were either more expensive or in an undesirable location. So, we ended up with an entire, 170-year-old house with three floors, funky layout and colors, and ample space. One of Ecuador’s presidents lived here in the 1930s. Once we didn’t get lost anymore, we enjoyed the rooms and courtyards.
The historic center
Our group was allowed an early check-in, so Mark, Maya, and I got settled and explored the surroundings (finding an awesome bakery nearby and the main plaza three blocks away), while our friends faced entering a new country and busing it into the center. They joined us mid-afternoon.
It was so incredibly nice and special to walk out the door and be engulfed by historic buildings. We gazed at the colorful facades, lit-up at night, and leisurely passed the Presidential Palace, while important people were being dropped off and demonstrations – and the 8am arrival of the guard – took place.
We explored pedestrian-only alleys and glimpsed into churches, most of which you had to pay an entrance fee for. Those ones, we skipped.
The five of us – Maya always joins us – stumbled across a cute street with shops as well, before making dinner plans. My camera went in overdrive!
Splurging for dinner
Our friends were super generous with their offer to pay for dinner. Mark checked reviews on Google and picked a recommended restaurant called Vista Hermosa (beautiful view). We soon found out where its name came from, after being guided a few floors up in an old elevator with bell boy. As we made our way by the several terraces, we realized we had landed in a fancy place!
Despite that, we stayed – and enjoyed an amazing dinner with yummy cocktails. An “high-end” opportunity like this rarely presents itself for us, so we reveled in the splurge, and thanked our friends profusely.
The walk home allowed us to take in Plaza Grande by night. There is a lot of police presence throughout the historical district, so we never felt unsafe.
La Mariscal Artisanal Market
On our only full day in Quito, the five of us walked past the dominating Basilica del Voto Nacional, which is a landmark that you can see from pretty much anywhere in the center. It is the largest neo-Gothic basilica in the Americas. You have to pay to go inside ($4 per person), so we skipped that part. Later, I read that there is a café in one of the towers. That would have been cool to visit.
We passed through a couple of parks before reaching the artisanal market. Katherine and Brandon were flying home the following night so looked for souvenirs to take. Mark and I finally purchased an alpaca blanket for our camper bed. We tested it out in the Airbnb. In the evening, we stayed home for a drink and self-prepared dinner
Panecillo Hill
The last morning of this mini-vacation was spent on the streets again. We wanted to walk to the winged virgin statue on Panecillo Hill for a view and because it is the biggest aluminum statue in the world. At 135 feet (41 meters), it is also the highest statue in Ecuador and one of the highest in South America (taller than the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil). After several warnings that the area isn’t safe for tourists, climbing about halfway, and being suspicious of a group of youths, we retreated.
Wrapping up
The five of us strolled a bit more through the historic center, had a warm beverage at an outdoor café, and went our separate ways. Brandon received a shoe shine from a seasoned gentleman for 65 cents, Katherine had work to do, and we needed to pick up our camper and move on. The Airbnb hosts were helpful and generous by letting our friends stay until 5pm instead of the usual noon check-out time.
We hope to see Katherine and Brandon again upon their return to the continent and plan to go camping together for a few days, potentially in Peru.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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June 29, 2023 at 12:50
What a great experience!
June 29, 2023 at 20:56
It was a nice change of pace and scenery! 🙂
June 29, 2023 at 12:56
As I read, I’m forming opinions: In general, Ecuador feels more safe than Colombia. I’m glad you find friends to share time, food, and Airbnb expenses. Another perk: Maya can often join in your adventures.
I can see how your camera would go into overdrive in Quito: the cathedral, the multi-floor “royal” house and more. More happy travels ahead! 😀
June 29, 2023 at 21:00
Hi Marian,
Colombia was very dog friendly, so we counted on Ecuador being the same. There have been places where Maya was not allowed in this country, but in general it’s been pretty good. And when she’s not welcome in a restaurant (we usually sit outdoors), then we don’t eat there. 🙂
It is so nice to run into old friends abroad. Very special! And, yes, Quito is awesome. I really liked the historic part of town and hope we can house sit there one day in the future, and live in the capital extensively.
June 29, 2023 at 13:14
Wow, that house! Everything looks amazing!
June 29, 2023 at 21:01
It was a pretty cool and special experience – everything about those two days, Margie!
June 29, 2023 at 14:15
Hi Liesbet! Looks like a wonderful time to “splurge” for a change. When we travel we always try to stay near the centro to save on walking so it looks like where you stayed was perfect. And as always spending time with friends makes it especially wonderful. Glad you had time together with Mark before he heads out. Looking forward to your adventures while he is gone. ~Kathy
June 29, 2023 at 21:07
Hi Kathy,
It was so special for us to be real tourists in a historic city and stay in the midst of it – with friends. I can totally see the attraction of that, especially being able to walk everywhere. And to splurge with drinks and dinner out. I know we should do this more often, but then it wouldn’t be special anymore, right? 🙂
I’m still catching up with blog posts… Mark returned home a couple of days ago, after 2.5 weeks. Maya and I had a nice time alone, bonding, and getting some work done. No adventures without him, really, just a lot of screen time! Now, we will fix a few things on our car, before hitting the road again.
June 29, 2023 at 18:14
Hi, Liesbet – That house looks so amazing!! Safe travels to Mark. I look forward to continuing to follow your adventures.
June 29, 2023 at 21:24
Thanks for following along still, Donna. This historic house was something else. Easily the most unique Airbnb we ever stayed at. Mark made it to Massachusetts and back safely!
June 29, 2023 at 18:53
Wow, what a giant increase in space you had for a couple of nights! I laughed at your comment about getting lost. It must have felt strange to be surrounded by so much “house”.
Were you glad to get back to Thirsty Bella after your walk on “large” side?
June 29, 2023 at 21:28
Hi Diane,
You aren’t kidding about all that space we had in the house. Because it had such a funky layout (it used to be a hotel at one point), with two stairways in different parts of the house, there were a handful of moments that first afternoon, where I had no idea how to get down or where I was!
And, yes, surprisingly, we were both happy to be back on Thirsty Bella!! We had missed our home, even if it was just for two days and nights! A bit strange. But the truth! 🙂
June 29, 2023 at 22:14
Enjoyed reading about your fun time in Quito and that you splurged on both your huge stay in the Centro and fancy dinner. We didn’t have such a pleasant and safe experience as I was mugged and had my earrings ripped out of my ears in the historic district just before our walking tour. It shook us up but we went on to have great time in the rest of Ecuador.
June 30, 2023 at 13:17
Yikes, Annie – that sounds very frightening!
July 5, 2023 at 16:50
Hi Annie,
I remember you telling me that horrible story of what happened in Quito, years ago. An awful way to learn not to wear golden earrings!
Ecuador used to be known as the safest country in South America and lots of expats call it their home, but recent reports are all but positive and we hope the country doesn’t head into the same direction as Colombia decades ago… We are constantly warned now (by locals and police) to be careful and to avoid certain areas. It doesn’t help with trying to enjoy this country!
June 29, 2023 at 21:19
I am always in awe of your travels, Liesbet. This week, I went maybe 2 miles from my home!
June 29, 2023 at 21:50
Hi Jacqui,
You know, it’s nice to have a comfortable home base and yard. It sounds easy and satisfying – and I know you are happy there!
And, here’s a secret: the last 2.5 weeks, I haven’t ventured far either. I joined the family where I’m camped at on a couple of outings into town and I had my own one-day adventure with Maya – taking a bus into town and circumnavigating the local lake on foot with her, a distance of 7.5 miles. It ended with a major migraine!
June 30, 2023 at 09:45
You did stay in style! A place that looked like that would cost hundreds a night. The outdoor restaurant looks awesome.
July 5, 2023 at 16:52
Hi Alex,
The Airbnb “hotel” we stayed at, as well as the fancy restaurant, were a splurge. I have no idea when we will repeat those comforts, luxuries, and enjoyments! 🙂
June 30, 2023 at 13:18
Glad you could live it up in Quito for a few days! Also good to hear that Mark has made it back and you three are all reunited.
July 5, 2023 at 16:54
Hi Lexie,
Sorry for the late reply. Yes, Mark made it back safely – and with the massive and heavy car part, which we have now installed – and we have hit the road again. While I thought we’d return to Quito for a night or two, this didn’t happen. We are running out of time in this country, so have decided to stick to the main highlights as long as they sound safe.
June 30, 2023 at 14:12
Wow, what an amazing place to stay!
July 5, 2023 at 16:54
The most unique Airbnb in my history of staying at Airbnbs. 🙂
July 2, 2023 at 09:57
What a gorgeous house that you stayed in. I’m glad you had a great time in Quito. I enjoyed Quito and Ecuador when I was there. Safe travels!
July 5, 2023 at 16:55
Hi Natalie,
I’m glad you visited Ecuador when you did. Based on our experiences and interactions with locals, it seems like the “landscape” is changing fast here and not in a positive way. 🙁
July 2, 2023 at 22:55
Really enjoyed your post and glad you’re both doing well. Quito and Guayaquil were the only big cities we had ever been in where people were afraid to use cell phones in public because of crime. It was so strange being around lots of young people and not seeing one phone. And everyone wore their backpacks in the front. In Otavalos and Cuenca, both lovely places, we felt very safe. I hope it’s gotten better.
Steve
July 5, 2023 at 17:01
Hi Steve,
What a privilege to have both you and Annie read this Quito post and leave a comment! 🙂
We have only heard negative stories and reports of Guayaquil, so will drive nowhere near this big city. Quito, especially the historic center, appeared safe to us, but many people told us once you leave the historic part, it’s better to not walk and take a taxi instead. Our taxi driver didn’t use her cell phone and left her windows closed until we had left the city boundaries!
Otavalo felt safe and we enjoyed strolling around there. Cuenca is still on the “to do” list, but we have become a tad more weary these weeks, as more and more locals tell us their country is not safe, as we hear about robberies from fellow tourists, read about robbery attempts on fellow overlanders (yes, even in a place we actually camped at a month ago), and receive security updates from the US embassy.
Our next stop was going to be the coast, but we have been discouraged and, since we have also decided not to extend our visas, we will stick on the main tourist track in Ecuador for now, traveling at a faster pace.
So, I’m afraid it’s not gotten better here. More like the opposite. 🙁
July 3, 2023 at 21:03
What a fabulous time it looks there. I loved the eclectic AirBnB, what a treat that was for you guys! <3
July 5, 2023 at 17:03
Just being in the Airbnb made this “weekend trip” special, Debby. I have no idea when – and where – we will live in an entire house, or apartment, again. Probably when we are getting over-exhausted from the lifestyle and need a break for a bit.
July 3, 2023 at 21:30
Quito looks like a lovely place. Thanks for sharing all the photos!
July 5, 2023 at 17:04
Hi Debra!
As far as historic towns go, Quito was pleasing and delivering what I enjoy most about them: beautiful architecture, a great vibe, pleasant parks, and safe pedestrian areas.
July 6, 2023 at 14:32
I love cities. Quito looks lovely. Looking forward to when I can just step out of my door into a beautiful cobblestone street. I think we will be looking for something a bit cheaper. But what an experience staying in that beautiful Airbnb.
Glad you guys had a great splurge!
July 10, 2023 at 22:06
Hi Duwan,
It sure is an entirely different sensation and experience to actually stay/live in a comfortable apartment and being able to walk outside and explore without a worry in the world. I assume that’s what you will be doing during your Spanish courses. I could live in Quito for a couple of months! Maybe we can house sit here in the future. Let’s see what Cuenca and Vilcabamba feel like… 🙂
July 8, 2023 at 09:37
What a gorgeous 170 year old AirB&B to stay in. It certainly looks 5star, Liesbet.
And so pleased you finally got an alpaca blanket. I’m sure it will come in very useful.
July 10, 2023 at 22:14
Hi Hugh,
This crazy and funky Airbnb did have very high ratings and was a fun place to be. It was cold and not extremely comfortable, but I guess that was part of the charm. The alpaca blanket already came in handy there, before it ended up on our camper bed! 🙂
July 11, 2023 at 12:20
So much of Quito’s architecture reminds me of Lima, Peru…glad to hear you were able to enjoy the mansion-like 170-year-old residence as your point of stay.
July 13, 2023 at 18:34
Well, that’s nice to know that Lima has a similar historic center than Quito. Now, I look forward to visiting Peru’s capital as well, one of these months. Thank you!!! 🙂