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A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Nomad Life (page 1 of 18)

Meet Duke, Our Temporary Camper in Europe

Surprise!

Ready for new adventures in Duke!

No, this is not a Vario. But it will be our home until we find one – and build it out!

When you don’t have a residency anywhere and you’re in between travel chapters, life can get tricky. Especially when you sold your last camper in South America after a three-year journey. We never planned to ship Thirsty Bella to Europe – where we intend to spend the next few years exploring – because it would be too expensive and it was not the right vehicle for that continent.

Thirsty Bella, the camper most of you are familiar with

As many of you know by now, Mark and I are looking for a particular camper, van, or chassis truck to turn into our “forever” overlanding vehicle. Indirectly and directly, we have been looking for this 4×4 Mercedes Vario truck for over a year, first in Chile, then worldwide, and now in Europe. We never thought it would take this long to find anything suitable.

And there was a very unfortunate turn of events during our search, which made us lose a lot of time and develop Plan B. But more about that in a future blog.

Another intricate matter is Mark’s immigration status. He can only stay in my home country of Belgium (where we arrived at the end of April) for 90 out of every 180 days. His annual health check-ups in the US take place in early August and Brussels would be the best city for him to fly out of, because I want to stay in my parents’ little house in Belgium with Maya during his absence. This meant that we needed a decent buffer out of those 90 days for him to return to Belgium. Therefore, we needed to leave the country for a few weeks in July.

Can you still follow?

But, how to leave Belgium and stay away for a while without a vehicle? Traveling by train with a dog and our belongings wasn’t the easiest of solutions, as we’d experienced in Portugal, Spain, and France this past winter. But, more importantly, how could we keep checking out potential Varios throughout Europe without our own transport?

So, in early June – since we needed time for all the red tape concerning vehicle purchases in Belgium – we had to start our search. Should we purchase a car (easier, more convenient, cheaper in gas, and the most affordable solution, but we’d need to rent homes again for who knew how many months) or a temporary camper (a hassle to purchase, expensive, poorer fuel economy and pricier diesel, and using funds needed for our Vario, but we’d have a home again and could hopefully save money on accommodation)? Which option would you pick?

That discussion didn’t take too long for us and soon we found ourselves scouring the web for second-hand campervans. I had always thought we’d go for something small and not too expensive. We did jump on an ad about a grey Fiat Ducato Chausson, borrowed my parents’ car for the hour-long drive, and checked out this low-quality build with a rusty engine block. Mark couldn’t stand upright in the van and the living space felt super tight. Yup, we got pretty spoiled with our roomy, well-prepared, and “condo-like” Bella in South America.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)

We looked for something slightly bigger and I contacted an owner during our 12-hour wasted drive to Germany the following day, to check out another rusty Vario chassis. My questions were answered by 9pm that night and I found out there was urgency to looking at this van. A phone call was in order at 9:30pm, exhausted as I was from the long car journey that day.

Non-European residents can’t buy, register, and insure a European car, except in Germany. This will be the route we take with our phantom Vario, but for this temporary solution, we involved my dad to deal with the Belgian logistics.

So, that Sunday evening, you can imagine the look on the sellers’ faces when, at their front door, appeared a woman, her husband who didn’t speak Dutch, a big dog who was addressed in English, and a dad… ready to look at their camper.

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Our First Month Back in Belgium – Dog Walks, Family Time, and Research (And Our May 2026 Expenses)

To say Mark, Maya, and I were exhausted after three months of high-intensity sightseeing and traveling in Southwestern Europe is an understatement. When living in our past campers and sailboats, we’d usually do something “interesting” once a week, but during our time in Southwestern Europe this winter, our pace was much higher and we visited sites and attractions about every other day.

Entering Belgium from France

We arrived in Belgium on April 26th, but couldn’t rest yet. My generous cousin lent us her car for a week and after one day of settling into “the little house” of my parents, our trio set off for Germany. The idea had been to check out two empty 4×4 Vario vans, hopefully commit to one, and visit with a van builder. We’d been planning and anticipating this trip for weeks.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

I’ll provide more details in the future, but suffice it to say that this effort was a disappointment. The first van (white) was too rusty and in poor shape, the owner of the second van (yellow) was abroad and couldn’t see us, and our chat with the builder was brief because he was super busy after a long weekend. Eventually, someone else beat us to the yellow Vario and bought it on the spot. We found out on our anniversary, which ruined the special evening I had planned.

When we returned to Belgium, it rained for two weeks straight and it felt like winter had come back. We even had to turn the heat on! We do have plenty of computer, admin, and research work to keep us busy, though. And the occasional translation job for me. Plus, as you might have noticed, I’m determined to catch up on all my blog writing.

A nice perk about living in this little house by the lake is our daily walks. Mark’s ankle has been sore and swollen, so I took Maya by myself every morning. We try to go for a steady, one-hour walk before breakfast, which is great exercise.

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Three Months of Rentals in Southwestern Europe – Thoughts and Conclusions

If you’ve followed our blog for a while, you know that Mark and I (and our respective dogs) have always lived and traveled in campers and sailboats, with a three-year hiatus of house and pet sitting. We’ve been doing this worldwide as “digital nomads” for 23 years.

After selling our last truck camper in Chile, South America, we were homeless again. Or better, “in between” travel chapters. We wound down our three-year adventure on that continent with a few weeks in an Airbnb apartment in Santiago de Chile, before visiting Mark’s friends and family – and celebrating his mom’s 90th birthday – in icy Massachusetts, USA. That’s where and how we started 2026.

Without a home on wheels or any prospects, and not being fans of the cold, we came up with a plan, which was a twist on our usual lifestyle since we had few belongings left and no moving home. We booked a rental car in Portugal for two months, arranged two-week rentals throughout the southern Iberian Peninsula, fitted in a couple of city trips, traveled by train with our dog to get to Southern France, and rented three lodgings in that country as well. For the last stretch to Belgium, my cousins gave us a ride.

(As always, click on or hover over the photos in the galleries to read their captions.)

How did we fare? Did we like this kind of traveling? Was it costly? What were our favorite parts? Would we do it again? How about missing our own home on wheels?

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An Introduction to Burgundy in France (And Our April 2026 Expenses)

My cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, decided to join us in France for their eleven-day vacation. Of that time, we spent a wonderful week in the Dordogne, and we needed two solid days of driving back to Belgium. For the three nights and two days that were left, we hunkered down in Burgundy. One day was dedicated to more cute villages and the other to natural settings.

Gien-sur-Cure

For this short stay, we opted for a house in a tiny village surrounded by countryside. Despite being located along a main road, it was quiet at night and we managed to keep enjoying the beautiful weather on the patio whenever we were home.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to see their captions.)

The mattresses hurt everyone’s backs, but the bathroom was modern and the kitchen sufficed. There was an antique washing machine, which, surprisingly enough, Mark and I already had experience with in Argentina. It came in handy as I wanted to wash all our clothes before arriving in Belgium, where we don’t have our own laundry facilities. Of course, the machine broke on our second day, but we lucked out because a neighbor could fix it immediately. The owner of the home lived next door.

Châteauneuf-en-Auxois

This tiny village on a hill oozed medieval charm, attractive buildings, and peace. We felt it was built in a different style than the beauties of the Dordogne, but it was cute nevertheless.

Our small group strolled around Châteauneuf for about an hour, skipping a visit to the picturesque castle. We had a busy day planned.

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Exploring the Dordogne in Southern France with Family

While our week in Libourne was a positive first taste of Southern France, our week in the Dordogne sealed the deal about us really loving this area – and being surprised about that!

The Dordogne region in France

Our perceived notions steered us towards Andalusia, Spain, to gauge it as a potential place to grow roots one day. France had never been on the radar, because we didn’t know much about this country (despite it being next door to Belgium) and encounters with French people around the world hadn’t been pleasant, generally. We obviously should reconsider and look forward to exploring more of France in the future!

Périgueux

But let’s get back to the middle of April, when my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, picked us up at the train station of Périgueux after our one-hour ride with Maya and the luggage. To our surprise – but not theirs – all our belongings fit next to their vacation gear in the magical trunk.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their caption.)

Since this was the start of our Dordogne travels, we began with a walk through the region’s capital Périgueux itself, hitting some of the highlights and chatting with friendly locals.

We didn’t have a lot of time, but strolled through some of the narrow streets, discovered a nice park, and photographed historic buildings.

Saint-Avit-de-Vialard

The four of us had rented a small mobile home at a campground in Saint-Avit-de-Vialard, which is a popular way to vacation in France. There are a lot of facilities – bathrooms, swimming pools, laundry, a restaurant, and a shop – of which we only used the bakery section in the store.

This is not really our style of accommodation, but when you’re in good company, the place you stay in doesn’t matter so much. Plus, this last cabin on the property was in a great location, far from the entrance and the commotion and next to nature.

We really lucked out with the sunny weather during our time in the Dordogne! We ate every single meal outside on the patio and managed to explore the region in depth and in shorts.

Limeuil

Our first afternoon excursion took place in Limeuil, another picture-perfect historic village. It swiftly became our favorite one in France.

The five of us climbed the hill and strolled through the medieval streets, taking in its beauty and cleanliness. We seemed to be the only tourists around on this weekday, which made the experience extra special.

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Village Life in Southern France – Our Week in Libourne, Saint-Emilion, and Bordeaux

My cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, were helpful and accommodating as ever, when they suggested joining us for a ten-day car vacation in Southern France and then taking us home to Belgium afterwards. All we had to do was slow down until they arrived on April 16th.

Initially, we had grand plans to explore northern Spain during that time, but when we found out that big dogs are not allowed on trains in that part of the country, those ideas shattered. Instead, we rented an apartment in Libourne, France, for a week, not too far from where we’d meet Griet and Wim.

Route Porto – Libourne

The only task at hand still was to get there from Porto, Portugal. Because of the above-mentioned issue, however, Maya was not allowed on the international train from Porto to Vigo (Spain) either. This resulted in Mark and me taking different train journeys north on April 8th. He rode all the way to Vigo with three pieces of luggage, while I took Maya and the two smaller bags on a full train to the Portuguese town that was closest to the border with Spain, namely Valença.

Mark picked up a rented cargo van in Vigo and drove it back across the border into Portugal to pick us up at the Valença train station around noon. A cargo van was the most affordable way to rent a car one way, for one day.

Our small cargo van

The next 24 hours consisted of lots of driving, with Maya in the closed-off back part, which she didn’t like. The electronic dashboard broke and the data disappeared, so we needed to get a speedometer app for the phone and place it in a secure spot. We ate sandwich lunches underway, stretched our legs once in six hours, and checked into a mediocre hotel two-thirds across Northern Spain. Hunting for a crappy take-out dinner in the middle of nowhere concluded this exhausting day.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The following morning was more of the same, except much worse. After skipping breakfast and a few hours of driving, Mark dropped Maya and me – and all our luggage – off at the train station of Hendaye, just across the border in France. Then, he backtracked by car into Spain and dropped the one-way van off in Irun. This chore was supposed to take half an hour, including the Uber ride back to me. We had a high-speed train to catch to Bordeaux around 1pm.

After not hearing from Mark after an hour, I got worried. Luckily, train stations in France offer free WiFi (my phone doesn’t have a SIM card) and I found out the cargo van had incurred damage within those 24 hours we rented it. We had no idea how it happened – and definitely never heard or felt something when we were inside – but there were scratches along the driver’s side.

All we had done was drive and park three times. Someone must have run into the van when it had been parked. Or scratched it up on purpose. We figured our credit card insurance would take care of it. But we found out a few days ago that they didn’t. Apparently, cargo vans aren’t covered. Lesson learned: only rent passenger cars. This unfortunate event that wasn’t even our fault cost us $650!!!

After dealing with the damage report at the rental office, Mark failed to find a taxi and had to walk/run the hour back to me in France in order to make our reserved TGV train. Needless to say, this was another bad day.

Libourne and surroundings

Libourne

Mark and I finally had good seats on this comfortable long-distance train which brought us to Bordeaux in 2.5 hours. From there, we took a slower, 30-minute ride to Libourne followed by a 15-minute walk and two flights of narrow stairs to our next rental accommodation, a top-floor apartment. Hauling up all our bags was a bit tough, but at least we wouldn’t hear anybody above us this time.

This apartment was not made for tall people. The bed was in an alcove, the closet was pretty much unaccessible, and we removed the shelf above the sink to prevent bleeding foreheads. The kitchen table and chairs were uncomfortable so we avoided using them. None of the windows opened wide or offered a view. We couldn’t even tell what the weather was. The bathroom was fantastic, though, except for the leaking sink and sewage smell. The hallway smelled like sewage as well. It was either that or air fresheners. Which one would you pick?

During our week in Libourne, we explored the small town, walked to grocery stores, and took Maya for strolls and playtime in the amazing park nearby. We were immediately enchanted by the friendly locals and their positive attitude towards dogs.

Since the weather was bad in the beginning, we stayed close to home and kept focusing on Vario research and figuring out insurance and registration options as non-European residents. But the two less rainy days were devoted to excursions.

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Porto, the Pearl of Portugal 

Most people who visit Porto really like it, so I did have a level of expectation about it. Usually, that’s not a good thing and we try to avoid it, but … Porto didn’t disappoint. And I liked it better than Lisbon.

Welcome to Porto!

Quick stop in Lisbon

Our “big adventure” started on April 4th, when our easy travels by rental car came to an end. The logistics from this day on – how do we get to Belgium with Maya without a car? – had been weighing on us and a lot of research, planning, and reserving had recently become a part of our lives. None of which we normally do.

After the 2.5-hour drive from our last rental house in Cuba with our already vacuumed car, Mark dropped Maya, me, and our five pieces of luggage off at the Oriente train station in Lisbon, before removing the last of Maya’s hairs with a lint roller. We had heard that there are heavy fines when you return a rental car with dog hair. 

Maya and I sat on a blanket outside the station – and were almost reprimanded by security guards as being homeless loiterers (because that’s what this scene might have looked like; and in a way, we were) – and waited for Mark for an hour and a half. Luckily, returning the Seat rental car after nine weeks wasn’t an issue.

Then, all of us had to wait for another four hours (because we booked the cheapest train fare) before we could hop aboard for the 3.5-hour journey to Porto. Mark and I took turns staying with Maya and the luggage, when the other person stretched their legs.

The train ride went relatively smoothly, despite us not having picked good seats – this was our first experience on a train with a dog and Maya’s first train trip as well – and our dog having to be muzzled.

Porto

The three of us took a cab from the Campanhã train station to our rental accommodation in the Bonfim district and we are glad we did as it would have been a long, uphill walk with quite a bit of luggage.

Again, we had picked an interesting apartment. We mostly liked it but there were some oddities, like having the shower stall in the actual bedroom and the toilet in a closet. Is that where the European term WC – Water Closet – comes from?

We did get used to these quirks when we figured out that “backing into” the toilet closet after pulling our pants down and bending over was the easiest way to take care of business. The kitchen was inadequate for longer stays, but being here for only four nights worked just fine. And, as always, the walls were thin.

Since we had arrived quite late that first evening, we decided to grab a fast meal at a vegan place nearby. Little did we realize that this was a fancy, set-menu experience only. We would have liked to have arrived earlier for such a feast, but we nevertheless indulged in this four-course meal at 9pm! It was a nice surprise to learn that Maya was welcome inside and coddled.

Day one

Our first full day in the city started with a delicious brunch at Tomás Coffee Brunch, something we never do. When we go out, it’s usually for the main meal of the day, at lunch or dinner time. Again, Maya was welcome inside!

In the afternoon, we explored the Bolhão (only a few minutes “down the road”) and Ribeira districts on a self-guided walking tour. It brought us past cool churches, buildings, and plazas. We were so happy it was a sunny and warm day.

We gazed at a couple of tiled churches and strolled down towards the water, where we found a surprisingly lively scene, after enjoying the peace in the back alleys of Ribeira, which is located much lower than Bolhão. We had no idea this city was built on a hill too.

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Village Life in Southern Portugal (And Our March 2026 Expenses)

From Órgiva in Andalusia, Spain, it took a full day of driving – and topping up with expensive fuel thanks to the newly created war – in our rental car to reach the final two Portuguese destinations of our Southern Iberian Peninsula trip.

Sniffing the air in the Portuguese countryside

It was the middle of March by then. We had a five-night gap between two-week rentals and, since I wanted to explore the Algarve a bit more, I had booked a short stay in São Teotónio, in Portugal’s Alentejo region. Sleeping in the actual Algarve province was cost prohibitive for us.

São Teotónio and the West Coast

The only nice day in the forecast was the day after we arrived, a Monday. An online friend of mine – fellow memoir author and successful artist Alison Sheldrake – lived in nearby Aljezur and we agreed to meet for lunch that day in Odemira, only a ten-minute drive north of us.

To fully take advantage of the sunshine that day, Mark, Maya, and I set out on a coastal walk in the morning, which might not have been the best idea as we showed up to our date sweaty and exhausted!

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Nevertheless, it was a great opportunity to check out two pretty beaches that are part of the famous Fisherman’s Trail. One even had a waterfall!

For a couple of hours, we enjoyed local food and getting to know Alison and her husband, Dave, better. Their rescue dog, Zara, and ours, Maya, got along just fine. Well, both pretty much ignored each other after the initial introduction. It was a lovely time.

Rain was predicted for the following afternoon. Once again, we tried to make the best of the weather before that happened by driving farther north and focusing on exploring the coast and another section of the Fisherman’s Trail.

We started at Furnas Beach, which sported a wide stretch of sand and the mouth of the Mira River. Curious about the town across the river, we made the 20-minute detour into Vila Nova de Milfontes to check it out.

Then, we followed a dirt road for a while to gaze over a cliff and cove before reaching Cavaleiro Beach. We didn’t feel energetic enough to climb down to the actual sand and then back up again.

Instead, we continued our drive to the lighthouse to eat our sandwich lunch on the boardwalk and check out popular Cabo Sardão while backpacking hikers continuously passed by.

By the time we reached the cute village of Zambujeira do Mar, threatening clouds had gathered. We stubbornly walked through town and along the cliff trail before running back to the car as the first fat raindrops appeared.

The weather remained crappy for the rest of our stay in the area. We dealt with research, searching for a 4×4 Vario van, travel logistics, future bookings in France, and job and writing tasks for me. In between storms, we walked into the center of São Teotónio for groceries.

Ironically, our shortest stay during these 2.5 months in southern Europe turned out to be the most pleasant regarding accommodation. This small rental house – for once – had everything we needed, including modern appliances. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t nice enough to sit outside on the patio.

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WANTED: 4×4 Mercedes Vario

Readers of this blog probably know that Mark and I have been looking for a very specific van as our new home on wheels. With this vehicle, we hope to explore Europe and beyond – Asia, Africa, and the Middle East when safe again.

A 4×4 Vario in Germany

This next stage of our lives requires a robust, reliable, fixable, durable, and yet comfortable camper. That’s why we are looking for a 4×4 Mercedes Vario, as it ticks all those boxes. The living area and the cab are connected, the engine is almost bulletproof, and these vehicles are known to be resilient. The 4WD part is non-negotiable for us (there are plenty of 2WD versions available) as we plan to venture off the beaten path and know the importance of high clearance and four-wheel drive from our previous overlanding experiences.

But… this particular vehicle is extremely popular and difficult to come by and that’s why I am asking for help. If you know of anyone who might be thinking about selling their Vario or you have one for sale yourself, please get in touch.

Mark and I are interested in just the empty van (to build out ourselves/with a company) or in one that’s already converted into a camper.

You might remember that we have been looking for this type of Vario for a long time. I’d say for almost an entire year. First the research, then pursuing a few options in Chile (which all failed), and then in Europe and elsewhere in the world.

We have followed leads in Peru, Chile, Bahrein, Dubai, Germany (we just returned from a 12-hour drive to check one out that has too many issues and rust), and the Netherlands. It has taken a lot of time, effort, focus, and energy and we are running out of steam… Soon, we will need a different plan and approach.

Thank you for sharing our quest and spreading the word, especially if you are a fellow overlander or someone who knows these kinds of vehicles or owners.

This is how our future camper would look like. This is NOT a 4WD version, though.

Happy May!

Andalusia, Part Three – Attractive Villages in Spain’s Granada Province

This is the last blog of three about our six weeks in Andalusia, Spain. The first one covers Ayamonte and Sevilla – and a side trip to Cadiz – while we stayed in El Rompido for two weeks (you can find it here) and the second one focuses on the pretty white villages in Málaga province. Read about them here.

Órgiva

The funky cottage we booked in Órgiva was the accommodation we had looked forward to the most. And while it was indeed super pretty and unique—with a few inconveniences—our fear of being cold in the mountains during the first half of March turned out to be justified. Whenever we were home, we needed either the gas heater or the smoky wood stove on.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The shower was in a separate, unheated building, which made washing up… less than pleasant. Have you ever taken a hot shower with low pressure and felt the water turn cold by the time it reaches your feet? (The opposite is true as well, when you take a cold shower and the water feels lukewarm by the time it gets down.) Add in patches of skin remaining dry from uneven water flow, exposed to chilly air, while you awkwardly turn in circles trying to get clean… That was our daily experience. Going outside to pee in the middle of the night was less uncomfortable.

This place would be amazing on sunny days, or in spring and autumn. One positive of visiting in winter was that the closed windows kept out the constant barking of dogs at night.

This video will give you a great feeling of our special cottage and garden.

Órgiva had been marked on our map as a potential place to live someday. It didn’t take long to cross it off the list. While there are a few cute alleys, the overall vibe felt a bit rough—more struggling hippies and noticeable homelessness than we expected.

On a better day, Mark, Maya, and I went for a long walk along the stream and into the hills. Despite having to take multiple steep detours due to the swollen river, we enjoyed peaceful moments and decent views.

Lanjarón

This neighboring village—also on our list—left a much better impression. It’s relatively small, clean, and less touristy than Órgiva, with beautiful views and great access to hikes into the river canyon.

There are plenty of trails in the surrounding mountains, one of which Mark and Maya explored while I took it easier. During our stroll through town, we came across castle ruins perched on a hill. Of course we had to climb up.

Overall, we didn’t find anything negative about Lanjarón as a potential place to live, but it also didn’t quite make it to the top of our list.

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