Before (Cirrus 820)
After (Lance 830)
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics, check out the travel/adventure/personal memoir I wrote:
Roaming About
A Life Less Ordinary
Tag: RV life
In the beginning of February, Mark, Maya, and I spent ten days on a pebble beach near Agua Verde in Baja California, Mexico. During that time, we visited this small village with our friends Duwan and Greg, in their car. Waiting for a fish taco lunch at the town’s waterfront, we spotted a protected bay with anchored boats and a sandy beach through binoculars. We decided to stop there on the drive home. Within five minutes of setting foot on that white beach and gazing at the surrounding rock formations, Mark and I concluded: “Let’s stop here for a week on our drive back north.”
Agua Verde bay
So, a good six weeks later, after we explored more of the Baja California peninsula and rounded Cabo Este, we stocked up on water, propane, and food for another nine days off the beaten path. Our first night was spent at the end of the ten-mile paved stretch of road, which then turned into dirt for another 20 miles to Agua Verde.
(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Sign at the entrance of the 30-mile road
Welcome back to the mountains!
Extra water to add to our tank later
The road in
Those last 30 kilometers (20 miles) of the Agua Verde road were rutted and potholed; some were steep and narrow, down a treacherous slope, where you hoped nobody arrived from the other side. This was the second time we attempted this route. Heading down and looking ahead, clouds of dust announced opposing traffic. Sometimes, I would jump out of the passenger seat to assess the situation. On the return trip, it was more difficult to see oncoming cars. We hoped they would see our dust cloud.
Heading down the hill
A steep descend
What do you mean no passing allowed?
Another sharp turn
A dust cloud tells another car is heading our way.
A truck heading our way!
At the bottom of the windy hill, the track was mostly flat but still in awful shape. The entire stretch of road, from Mex 1 (the main “highway” in Baja) to Agua Verde took us two hours and a half of being shaken. Despite our slow progress, car sickness still befell me. But it was worth it.
One-lane dirt road towards Agua Verde
Our campsite
After a last, steep descend, an empty beach opened up. We had encountered quite a bit of traffic on the drive, so we feared the place would be packed. Not so. A group of fishermen was camped for the night by the entrance of the beach and multiple sailboats peacefully swayed at anchor. We had our pick to park and chose a spot higher up. From here, we could see the protected bay on one side and the windier Sea of Cortez on the other side. Depending on shade, we moved our chairs around the camper.
First camping spot
Bedside view towards the Sea of Cortez
Bedside view towards the calm bay
Our arrival in Baja California, Mexico, was delayed by six weeks, because we decided to work for a month in the Phoenix area (Arizona, USA) after spending more money than anticipated on the cross-country drive from east to west. We also had a few important phone calls requiring unwavering internet and we needed an extra two weeks to prep our camper for the trip.
The majestic Sea of Cortez
Soon after crossing the border in mid-January, we decided Mark should fly back to Massachusetts for a family matter. To accommodate that impromptu trip, we “rushed” south on the peninsula and prepared for his imminent return. Maya and I stayed at a campground in Loreto (Rivera Del Mar) during his ten-day absence.
(As always, hover over or click on the photos to read their captions.)
The Malecon in Loreto
Loreto: a cute, historic, and colorful town
The Mission in Loreto
After all those arrangements and adjustements, you can imagine that we were more than ready and excited to take “a break from life” and start our Baja adventures. On February 1st, we filled our truck camper, T&T, with drinking water, propane, and food, emptied our sewage tanks at the campground, and headed south for a beach vacation along the Sea of Cortez. We spent one night at Juncalito Beach to get a decent start the next morning. The road to our destination in the Agua Verde area would be slow, treacherous, and mind blowing; a perfect introduction to Baja’s roughness and beauty.
Camped along the beach in Juncalito
A calm bay at Playa Juncalito
As expected, the single-track dirt road contained sharp turns, potholes, small rocks, and gravel. Some parts were steep and nerves of steel were required. Mark did a great job bringing us down to the coastline, where the track turned into the usual Baja secondary road: washboard, sand, and gravel. The cloudy, drizzly weather was unusual.
The cloudy and drizzly approach to the Agua Verde coastline
Slow and careful drive, back up!
Hopefully nobody is coming from the opposite side!
I played around with a few titles for this post, like “The Reality of Finding a Pick-up Truck in a Pandemic Climate” and “Our Terrible Truck Saga,” and the folder with my collected notes on the subject is called “The Truck Shit.” If that doesn’t set the tone for this multiple-month ordeal…
Mark and I have been looking non-stop for a sturdy, decent SuperDuty Ford pick-up truck to carry a truck camper, our new set-up, with extended travels in South America on the horizon. I was not going to write about this quest until it was a done deal (spoiler alert!), unlike when I touched on buying one of those cute houses (and land) for sale in Baja this past winter, which didn’t end well. (Read that post here.)
WARNING: This is a very long post, so browse the photos, skip to the end, or settle in with a cup of tea or coffee. Or, better, an alcoholic beverage.
(As always, click on or hover over the photos to read the captions.)
Why did we sell Zesty?
The first question that might arise for most long-term readers of this blog is probably why we changed gears and got rid of a perfectly-maintained and awesome campervan? A few reasons:
- While we loved Zesty, his components – besides being European – were 15 years old; we didn’t want to risk breaking and sourcing uncommon parts in remote places, a continent removed.
- We wanted a sturdier vehicle with high clearance and 4WD, as many boondocking areas (free parking without facilities; our main way of camping) are located along dirt roads.
- The mileage was still relatively low and the van kept its value the last four years.
- We wanted to sell Zesty on the US West Coast, where these vehicles are desired. You can read here how that went.
- If we sold the van, we would HAVE TO finally change campers and make that trip to South America happen – it would be the fire beneath our bums…
- Mark and I (and our two previous dogs) owned a truck camper before and traveled throughout Mexico and Central America with it for one year. It was the perfect set-up for such an adventure. (If you’re interested in photos and snippets of that adventure, check out this site and scroll down to “California Coast” and below. No blogs back then.)
Our previous truck camper (F350 crew cab 4WD diesel) in Costa Rica
Our previous no-name truck camper in Baja California in 2006
Do we regret selling Zesty?
Continue readingThe Plan
Mark and I had been playing around with the idea of going to Baja California, Mexico, during the winter since the fall of 2020. But as long as I needed reliable internet every day (first to publish my book, then to promote it, on top of other jobs and blogging commitments), crossing the border was not going to happen.
As January approached and we found ourselves in an uninspiring, windy California desert that turned even more chilly from the moment the sun set (before 5pm), the desire to find warmer weather grew. Don’t forget our home measures only 80sq feet, so being able to live outside is a requirement. Whenever my live webinar/presentation for the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) was delivered, we would leave the US for a chunk of time.
Except, the day after my “performance,” rumor had it that the border officials in Mexicali were cranking down on non-essential travel into their municipality. Would they turn us back if we crossed there, even when only driving through? We didn’t want to lie about our reason for visiting (saying that we were going to Mexico for dental work for example), besides, I’d just been to the dentist.
So we changed our plans, added a few more days to prepping our crossing, which now included an extra drive back east to a different border town after doing laundry, washing Zesty, and stocking up the van in Yuma, AZ, instead of El Centro, CA.
The interior of Baja California seen from the interior of Zesty
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read the captions. My photos are heavily resized for easier loading of the page.)
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