Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Tag: sightseeing (page 3 of 7)

Tale of Two Towns – Mulegé & Loreto in Baja California Sur

Mark, Maya, and I entered Baja California, Mexico, on February 1st 2021 in Zesty, without much of a plan. No surprise there! The main reason for our decision to cross the border was threefold: we needed a break from the US and its chaos, politics, and atmosphere, we aimed to find warmer weather, and we were both ready for a little “vacation” after all the hard work on my travel memoir Plunge.

Other than that, we’d drive until we found 1) warmth or 2) an area that spoke to us. Number two came first in the form of Mulegé, a town off the beaten tourist track about 2/3 down the Baja peninsula on the Sea of Cortez side.

Why Mulegé?

Sometimes, when you find a place that touches your heart, it’s difficult to describe why. Mark and I drove through and stayed in this town – actually in the exact same campground – fifteen years ago on our journey south (which brought us all the way to Panama and back) in a truck camper with our dogs Kali and Darwin. But it didn’t leave an impression. Also, we had different goals of sightseeing and exploring back then, not hanging out and immersing ourselves.

Here’s what we liked about this little gem on our recent visit:

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Encounters of the Whale Kind

The shallow Ojo de Liebre Lagoon (also called Scammon’s Lagoon) and the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California, Mexico, are the breeding grounds of the California gray whale, who migrate here every winter. Peak season to watch the adults and babies is from January through March. Ojo de Liebre (“hare eye lagoon”), a coastal lagoon near the town of Guerrero Negro, is a prime location to spot these humongous yet gentle creatures.

Whale and tail

Attempt One: Laguna Ojo de Liebre Campground

Sometime in February, Mark, Maya, and I drove 12 miles down a bumpy, gravel road past a salt mine to reach the departure point for whale watch tours ($50 per person) and set up camp for a few days.

It’s a beautiful location with lots of birds and trails to walk Maya – all for the price of 100 pesos ($5) for however long you’d like to stay. We could watch whale spouts through binoculars all day long. While a tad pricey for us, I decided to sign on for one of the tours, using birthday money from my parents.

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Fun in Southeastern Arizona & California

People who have been following my blog the last six months (and longer) know that I have been extremely busy with a personal project that finally came to fruition the end of November. This doesn’t mean the work is finished, as December and January still had me glued to the computer to promote my travel memoir, Plunge. The question is: did we have any fun throughout the focus and dedication towards my book?

(As always, hover over photos or click on them to read captions. My photos are heavily resized, so I can easily upload them and so this page loads with weaker internet connections.)

I have offered glimpses of that in previous posts, expense reports, and writing updates, but I have left a lot out as well. It is my intention to fill in the gaps today. Since my memory is nothing to boast about, I will let the photos do most of the talking. ???? My last sightseeing update documented how we arrived in Arizona, the end of November. You can read about that here.

On the drive to Tucson from Wilcox Lagoons, we briefly stopped in Benson to meet a fellow Westy owner.

Mark and I met up with two befriended couples and fellow overlanding nomads, Duwan and Greg (and their van Ballena Blanca) of Make Like An Ape Man and Ellen and Scott (with their tiny Scamper) of Ellen Jacobson Author, for Thanksgiving, my 45th birthday, and my book launch. I wrote a post about that milestone event here and Duwan did a better job with that here. For the next few weeks, we would see our friends on and off.

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Annual Expense Report 2020

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. “The less money you spend, the less you need to make” is my motto. ????

Our first yearly expense report (2016) can be found here, the report of 2017 is here, the one for 2018 here, and our 2019 expenses are located here.

These reports include ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and a 60-pound dog. We adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019. Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast. The utility cost refers to phone data plans with AT&T.

In 2020, Mark, Maya, and I lived in our campervan Zesty for six months and in the “room above the garage” the other six months.  We spent about $1,000 less than the previous year. The fact that we sat still for so long during “the summer of Covid” certainly has something to do with this.

We went on a couple of multiple-week trips in our van during that period, but used less diesel and replaced less parts than in 2019. On the other hand, we needed to buy a few household items to survive – read: cook – in our guest room in Newburyport, MA.

The grocery category was relatively high, probably because we pretty much cooked all our meals at home once the pandemic arrived. Our average grocery cost in 2020 was $357 a month.

Usually, I split the bigger categories up in the table underneath, but WordPress is causing me trouble, so I’ll itemize #2 and #3 here. The camper category is divided among maintenance: $1,511; insurance: $1,118; diesel: $1,110; registration: $136; parking: $14; and tolls: $4.

Writing was a new category last year, and a big one at that. The total sum for publishing my travel memoir Plunge accounts for my editor: $2,024; book cover:$175; ISBN numbers: $295; proof copies: $72; license: $35; software Quicken: $25; font: $15; and postage: $13. I still have a long way recuperating that $2,654 in sales!

Publication of Plunge – One
Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Alcohol and gifts are pretty much in line with last year. The dog category is lower, thanks to Maya needing less drugs for her allergies. The utility category is higher, because AT&T raised their (unavailable now) monthly unlimited data plan from $25 to $35. None of the other categories stand out, except camping. In 2019, we managed to camp for free the entire year. Last January, we paid for a one-week stay at a developed National Forest campground in Florida for me (and Maya), while Mark flew back to Massachusetts.

Because of Covid, our credit card company, Chase, allowed customers to use their points at 1.5x their value for groceries (usually this rate is only valid when buying plane tickets with points). We greatly took advantage of that, since we couldn’t fly back to Belgium and… 1/3 of our groceries for “free?” We also received some credit ($310) for owning a Chase Sapphire Reserve card. Why do I mention this?  Because all these points (and credits) amounted to $3,084! So, technically, we spent that much less in 2020, which brings our total expenses for last year to $12,052 instead of $15,136.

2020 Overview:

Groceries:

Camper:

Writing:

Dog (vet/meds: $385; food: $242; supplies: $209):

Gifts:

Alcohol:

Utilities (cell data: $455; propane: $40; dump: $13; Skype: $5):

Household (oven MA, stove MA, speaker):

Health and Fitness (vitamins & haircuts):

Clothing (shoes, shorts, socks):

Drinking out:

Dining Out:

Entertainment (guided tours):

Computer (web hosting):

Camping:

Transportation (shuttle buses BOS):

Medical (drugs):

Laundry:

Postage:

Miscellaneous:

 

TOTAL:

 

$4,278

$3,893

$2,654

$836

$730

$714

$513

$253

$242

$235

$231

$217

$67

$64

$61

$48

$47

$33

$17

$3

———

$ 15,136

(Table might not load correctly on tablets – try turning the screen for better results.)

Maya at Ocean Pond, Florida

Do you keep track of your expenses? How did your budgeting go in 2020? Any categories you’d like to do better with in 2021?

Welcome to Bisbee, Arizona!

Bisbee, AZ, has been on our radar for a while. A few years ago, when discovering the desert southwest in our camper van Zesty, we met fellow travelers in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in Arizona and the Vermilion Cliffs in Utah who told us Bisbee was the perfect place to settle. Apparently, property still appeared affordable, creative people abound, the atmosphere oozed friendliness, a liberal and diverse population inhabited the scene, and the weather was perfect. Right.

Next time we’d return to Southern Arizona, we would check out Bisbee. In the meantime, Mark kept an eye on its house listings on Zillow. Surprisingly, everything that went up for sale, especially the cute, renovated miners’ cottages, disappeared within weeks if not days. Bisbee had been discovered! Not that we are thinking of putting down roots anywhere…

Approaching Bisbee for the first time

This week, our trio finally parked Zesty in Old Bisbee, friends Duwan and Greg from Make Like An Ape Man in tow. We would explore the town inside and out to get a feel for the different areas, the layout, the atmosphere, the pros, and the cons. Being able to park overnight for free in the middle of this hillside enclave was a good start!

Located 90 miles southeast of Tucson and nestled in the Mule Mountains, Bisbee was founded in 1880. It quickly became a booming (copper) mining town that still sports a well-preserved historic downtown with steep roads and many – seemingly infinite – staircases acting as entryways and shortcuts.

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Tidbits from the Road – Heading West across the USA

The last time Mark and I crossed the United States from East to West was in October 2016. We attended the sailboat show in Annapolis as vendors with our marine WiFi and cell data product and invention, The Wirie, before driving to Northern California in our Prius. We had five days to cross this massive country in order to start our first housesit on the West Coast. We lasted a few years “out west,” house and pet sitting and exploring in our camper van Zesty, before making our way back east in the summer of 2019.

The Southwest is where our hearts lie. The vast, open spaces, low population, incredible natural sites, and sense of freedom trump the mountains and greenery of the East Coast. We think…

Our Route

If you’ve followed this blog for any length of time, you are familiar with our lack of planning. We pretty much take life as it comes, one step at a time; something that is evident in the title of my forthcoming travel memoir: Plunge. Anything can influence our route, our destination, our timing, our moods.

Here’s how we ended up in Arizona, this time around…

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Snowbirds in Florida – Not Your Usual Winter

After three unusually rainy and/or cold winters out west in our 19ft camper van, Zesty, we had one objective for this last season: be warm. The only place in the lower 48s to assure that: Florida. Southern Florida. Since Mark and I always “bring” weird weather wherever we go, something would be amiss in the Sunshine State this winter as well. Firstly, Sunshine State is a misnomer better suited for California or Arizona, as the skies have been mostly cloudy (except on the days I take photos :-)). Secondly, we regularly had 40-degree weather (5 degrees Celsius) in January and, skipping spring all together, upper eighties from March on. Unseasonably hot.

Here’s what we’ve been up to the last three months…

(Hover over the photos to read the captions or click to enlarge.)

January 2020

The new year and new decade couldn’t have started better. After work and a bit of sightseeing in Kentucky, we drove to Florida to celebrate the arrival of 2020 with good sailing friends in Marineland. Even Maya liked her week-long visit to their refurbished catamaran, Sauvage. We were invited by a business owner in St. Augustine, who welcomed us with open arms and spoiled us with splendid company, food, and promises. Good times!

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St. Augustine – Almost Home

I hinted on it in a recent blog post: in January, Mark, Maya, and I spent about two weeks – spread over multiple visits – in historic St. Augustine, Florida, in regards to a job. Our life would potentially take an entirely different turn here. Promising and exciting. Or, was the anticipation part of a mind trick? Something that sounded too good to be true? A case of me falling for the trap I usually avoid: expectation leads to disappointment?

While in town, we had access to electricity, bathrooms, showers, and laundry. Luxurious and easy! Our AT&T data plan works splendidly in St. Augustine, so I could continue my own projects. The neighborhood was a bit shady and the traffic and train noise were horrific, but we could walk into the cute downtown.

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Kentucky Surprises

If it wasn’t for an interesting job opportunity, Mark and I would never have considered visiting Kentucky. Yet, upon reading what the state has to offer and actually driving through its attractive countryside, we discovered beauty from rolling hills to majestic buildings and from famous events to dark, long caves. We are not alone in our positive findings; we kept hearing about surprising discoveries other campers and visitors made as well.

(Scroll over the image to read captions or click to enlarge.)

As I mentioned in an earlier blog, we thought we’d have time to explore the area during our seven-week job commitment, but the night schedule was too exhausting to venture far on our one full day off. That being said, we found a few fun hikes around lakes near Campbellsville and saved the other attractions until the Amazon job was finished. We actually planned to head south as quickly as possible, that December 25th, but unseasonably warm weather made these Kentucky stops possible.

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Expense Report 2019

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and relatively adventurous life without breaking the bank. “The less money you spend, the less you need to make” is my motto. ????

Our first yearly expense report (2016) can be found here, the report of 2017 here, and the one for 2018 is here. In 2019, Mark and I house and pet sat for six weeks, visited our family back east for one month, and lived and traveled in our camper van Zesty in the US and Canada the rest of the year. What follows is the break-down of how we spent our money in 2019.

The Wave in Utah

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for the two of us. Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. New for 2019 is the category “Dog”. We adopted Maya on June 4th. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast. The utility cost refers to phone data plans with AT&T.

Our expenses in 2019 were about $500 higher than the previous year. Considering that our new companion consumed a $1,200 chunk (mostly meds and vet costs) means that we did better in almost all the other categories. The biggest part of our camper category keeps going to repairs and maintenance. We did cover quite a bit of distance last year as well (14,000 miles), which is represented in our high diesel amount. Our monthly average for groceries remains $300.

Another biggie last year was the price of my citizenship. With all that behind us – my US passport is waiting in Massachusetts – this year can only get cheaper, right? My main shock happened when noting our alcohol dollars. That is a lot, especially since we didn’t throw or attended many parties… If there’s one amount I want to lower in 2020 it’s this one.

US Citizenship!

We can’t get out of the gift category. We love our spouse, family and friends too much and treating them for birthdays and other occasions – with a restaurant meal or a personalized gift – is just plain fun. Our utilities went up, because we basically live in our camper van full-time – more propane and laundromats needed and when we can’t find free dump stations, we have to pay. We are currently testing Visible as our internet and cell provider, but the results are bleak compared to our monthly, quite reliable AT&T plan.

As a citizen, I hope to obtain a new healthcare plan that includes basic dental work. Therefore, the medical category should theoretically go down this year as well. I mentioned Mark’s new SmartPhone in last month’s report and all the other amounts seem straightforward. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments.

The team responsible for Maya’s adoption: Amy, Jessica, and Jeff

The charity category is lower than last year and will not be present for 2020. I figured that the money we used to donate to animal rescue organizations should go towards Maya (and then some). If our financial situation improves, it will appear again! 🙂

Last but not least, I’m surprised that we didn’t spend a dime on campgrounds in 2019. Having camped  for nine months out of the year, this is good and bad. Perfect for the pocket and often for the surroundings, peace, and privacy, but not so great when it comes to comfort, convenience, and spoiling ourselves. We did get a campground break in Kentucky, as employer Amazon paid for that one.

2019 Overview:

Camper (repairs: $2967; diesel: $1828; insurance: $1078,

registration: $86; tolls: $81; parking: $63):

Groceries:

Dog (supplies: $524; vet: $403; food: $188; adoption: $100):

Customs & Immigration (citizenship: $725; passport: $161):

Dining Out:

Alcohol:

Gifts (B-days, NY gifts, treating family):

Utilities (cell data: $351; propane: $53; dump: $10)

Health and Fitness (vitamins & haircuts):

Medical (dentist: $170; meds: $40; scan: $30):

Clothing (shoes, jeans, t-shirts):

Computer (new phone, router, hosting, Turbo Tax):

Drinking out:

Bank charges (annual credit card fee):

Travel (National Park pass, park fees Canada):

Entertainment (guided tours):

Transportation (shuttle buses, metro, ferry):

Charity (Best Friends):

Household (camper items):

Laundry:

Postage:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

 

$6103

$3563

$1215

$886

$758

$708

$675

$413

$368

$240

$214

$211

$159

$150

$110

$106

$87

$70

$66

$61

$63

$0

———

$ 16,119

(Table might not load correctly on tablets – try turning the screen for better results.)

Surfing into 2020

For another (more detailed and colorful) annual expense report of full-time van-dwellers, check out the 2019 “Cost of Being a Nomad” post of our friends Duwan and Greg here.

Do you keep track of your expenses? How did your budgeting go in 2019? Any categories you’d like to do better with in 2020?

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