After less than one week on the road in Zesty, Mark and I returned to Santa Fe, New Mexico, in case an urgent health matter had us drive back to the East Coast in our van. Juan, the “window guy” at Extreme Twist, added an extra layer of silicone to the inside of our windshield, in the hopes it would finally be fixed. We couldn’t water test it until later. Mark’s health scare proved less urgent than we thought, but it kept weighing on us the rest of our time in the van. Today, I’m happy to report that it was false alarm.
Instead of retracing our steps yet again, back to Arizona, Zesty took us north, to Chaco Canyon. The idea was to spend the afternoon in Chaco Culture National Historical Park and see some of the most spectacular ruins of the Chaco Indians. But, by the time we reached the area after a 4-hour drive, and conquered the 14-mile long washboard gravel road to get to the park (which took another 2 hours instead of ½ hour because we are heavy and extremely careful), it was too late and hot in the day to stick to plan. We decided to camp for the night at the only (pay) campground in the park and split the excursion over two days.
Bonito Pueblo
Chaco Culture National Historical Park
About 1200 years ago, native people made this arid, high desert valley the center of their world. They created multi-story stone buildings with hundreds of rooms, and incorporated astronomy in their habitats and lives. Lines of sight among the great houses enabled communication. Chaco Canyon became a ceremonial, administrative, and economic center, linking to over 200 great houses in the region via road networks.
The 9-mile paved loop of this World Heritage Site was perfect for Mark and I to explore by bike. The extreme heat restricted our discoveries to the Hungo Pavi, Chetro Ketl, and Pueblo Bonito (our favorite) great houses that afternoon.
While we gave the first two a quick glance, Bonito offered us a chance to investigate the exterior and interior walls and rooms. Many kivas (circular ceremonial underground rooms) adorned the plaza, and I regretted not having bought a brochure with detailed information about the several numbered stops in this great house.
The following morning, it was still windy and (rare) rain was in the forecast, so we completed the loop in the van. We hiked to the top of the mesa for an “aerial” view of Pueblo Bonito.
Then, we strolled through and around Pueblo del Arroyo, and did a self-guided tour (with a brochure purchased at the visitor center) of Casa Rinconada Community. Here, the surprise was the giant kiva at the end of our walk.
On the drive out of the park, the Chacoan Stairway was a perfect example of how the native people built their pathways and traveled around.
Chacoan Stairway
Angel Peak Scenic Area
Before we left Chaco Canyon for the long, bumpy and dusty ride back to modern civilization, we dumped our tanks and water tested our windshield. It still leaked! Our discovery necessitated cutting this trip short by three days, to allow ample time in Santa Fe to have it taken care of once and for all. We found a picturesque free campground south of Bloomfield, NM and stayed two nights. Since there was adequate cell service, we managed to do a day of work.
Aztec Ruins
Mark and I headed north, to run errands in Farmington, the biggest town on our route. It has a modern library with free WiFi as well. But, before we spent a big chunk of the day there, we stopped at Aztec Ruins National Monument for a self-guided tour, which lasted an hour. The main feature of this park is a covered kiva, which has been completely reconstructed, including the interior. Being inside the building made it easier to imagine how ceremonial and communal life of the ancestral Pueblo people looked like.
Mesa Verde National Park
Of all the parks Mark and I visited during our second week on the road, Mesa Verde is the most famous and popular one. Located in Colorado, it attracts over 600,000 visitors a year. Ranger-led tours fill up quickly and the park buzzes with activity. It includes thousands of archaeological sites and hundreds of cliff dwellings. The area is too extensive – and hilly – to explore by bike, so we found a compromise.
Mesa Verde NP was created in 1906; the 7th national park in the US.
On our first day at Mesa Verde, we drove halfway into the park and left Zesty at the top of the mesa in a big parking lot (Far View area). Then, we explored the section of Chapin Mesa on our half-charged electric bikes. At an overlook, we spotted our first ever cliff dwelling: Cliff Palace.
Cliff Palace
We’d booked a tour at the visitor center for the Balcony House cliff dwelling. The hike was labeled the “most adventurous” of the dwellings, since it involved a long ladder and crawling through a short tunnel. Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable, respectful and wise about nature, our planet and the indigenous culture. We learned a lot, remained in awe of the smarts of the natives, and enjoyed being inside the dwelling.
Later in the afternoon, we rode the one-way mesa top loop trail to observe more cliff dwellings from a distance and pit houses (where the ancestral Pueblo people lived before they moved under the cliffs) up-close. The 10-mile ride back was uphill the whole time; a serious work-out, even with assist!
Mesa Verde NP is pretty big. The second day, we drove Zesty to Wetherill Mesa. From there, the Long House Loop, a 5-mile paved walking/bicycling trail, leads to viewpoints and archaeological sites. The distance was quickly covered on our bikes. The highlights of this section were the overlook of Long House and exploring the Step House, a cliff dwelling, by ourselves.
Taos Pueblo
Mark and I were fed-up with the wind, dust, and desert, so we headed into a national forest in Southern Colorado for shade, the smell of pines, and some peace. No internet here, but I had a few things to do off-line, and it was nice to be back in the woods.
San Juan National Forest
To conclude our two-week RV trip back in New Mexico, Taos Pueblo, a living native American community, seemed appropriate. The past linked to the present… After paying the steep $16 a person, I expected to receive insider information during a tour and be immersed into the culture as it is kept alive. Instead, a young part-native tour guide working for tips relayed information that was written in a brochure, souvenir stores and stands littered the homes and plaza, and most areas were inaccessible for tourists. Only a handful of people still lives here full-time, and the American Indians we encountered were westernized. To say our visit was a disappointment is an understatement. But, the adobe buildings were impressive!
Frugal Tips:
- Earlier this year, we bought an annual National Park pass for $80, so all our entrance fees are covered by this card. Aztec Ruins is now free to visit for everyone.
- Brochures with detailed information about the different great houses in Chaco Canyon can be purchased at the visitor center for $1 or $2 a piece.
- The ranger-led tours at Mesa Verde National Park cost $5 a person.
- We use the app/website freecampsites.net to find free campgrounds every night. On this trip, we paid once ($15) for a campsite, to allow ourselves enough time in Chaco Canyon.
- Taos Pueblo costs $16/person. We tipped our guide $5.
- Mark and I prepare and cook our own meals when living in the camper.
- Gas Buddy is our best friend when it comes to finding the cheapest diesel in the area.
- The website Sanidumps gives us a written or mapped overview of dump stations to empty our grey and black tanks. We plan around using the free ones.
- Since we only have 5GB of T-Mobile data a month, which Mark needs to run our business, we check into libraries to get online and use their free WiFi.
To read part 1 of our two-week adventure in Zesty, click here.
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June 21, 2018 at 10:20
So happy to hear Mark’s health scare was a false alarm Liesbet ???? The mesas look amazing and I can imagine it will be lovely to be in a forest again after time in the desert. We hope you are both well and wish you a happy Summer Solstice ???????? xxx
June 22, 2018 at 11:37
Happy summer solstice to all of you, Xenia! Happy about the start of this season. It will be the end of negativity and the beginning of positivity. 🙂 Once we’re back west, we are leaving the desert behind for a long time, and venture towards green and lush.
June 21, 2018 at 11:32
Impressive so many of those structures are still standing. And that you got to explore inside them. They were worth the trip.
Glad the health scare was a false alarm.
June 22, 2018 at 11:39
Who said the US didn’t have history or culture, right? The cliff dwellings were awesome and a pleasant surprise. I find that the less expectations you have, the nicer the surprise. 🙂
June 21, 2018 at 11:55
Oh that Cliff Palace is amazing!! Arid ground with wind soon wears you down so I can understand your need for a forest and shade! Most indigenous cultures have been westernized and I doubt if there any full blood in any culture when I think about it!! In our family alone we now have Vietnamese, German and Australian no pure Kiwi lineage in our family. I digress!! Enjoying these trips as its somewhere we won’t be heading due to cost and other reasons.
June 22, 2018 at 11:43
We were so ready for a change of weather, Suz, after four months of wind and sand. And, weeks of soaring desert heat. I’m glad you enjoyed the post.
As far as mixed “breeds” and cultures go, I guess that’s one result of travel becoming more popular. You have an interesting family! In my family, I’m the only oddball, being married to an American. Everyone else is Belgian. Unless we dig deeper, but, to be honest, I have no idea where my ancestors came from. And, since Mark and I don’t have children, we won’t add to the mixed blood phenomenon. 🙂
June 21, 2018 at 13:46
What an incredible place to visit! I have been to some small cliff dwellings, but nothing like that. I’m glad to know that your “full-time” RV adventure is going well (except for that stupid window… do you think that it’s finally fixed?). Oh, and your electric bikes… those are new, right? I don’t think you had them in San Diego. They sound like a perfect way to get around.
June 22, 2018 at 11:48
Hi Janis! Where did you see the small cliff dwellings? This was our first experience with them, and, to be honest, I had no idea what to expect from Mesa Verde, other than that it was a popular national park.
We think the windshield is finally fixed, but we will definitely rinse the window again and check, when we return to Santa Fe and before we leave that area. Mark’s in Boston now, and I’m in Belgium. Yep, those bikes are the newest addition to the family. 🙂 We ordered them on sale in February and had them delivered to Santa Fe, once that house sit started. They are awesome! As long as we find a convenient way to keep the batteries charged.
June 21, 2018 at 14:28
Glad the health scare was a false alarm. The cliff dwellings are amazing – we have seen some, but not actually climbed into any.
June 22, 2018 at 11:50
The only way to go inside the cliff dwellings was with a pre-booked guided tour. The Step House was the only one where people could walk to and through by themselves, but there was a ranger present to keep an eye on things. They all looked more impressive from afar (and above). 🙂
June 21, 2018 at 16:47
No internet! Sounds heavenly! I’m so relieved to hear Mark’s health scare was a false alarm, Liesbet. What a great trip! Your photos are incredible and two thumps up on the frugal tips! 🙂
June 22, 2018 at 11:52
No internet is heavenly… as long as you don’t need it for anything (like work). 🙂 I can’t wait for the day when we can take a loooong break from it. I’m glad you enjoyed this post with the photos and the tips, Jill. Have a wonderful weekend!
June 21, 2018 at 17:41
Looks like you explored some interested ruins. Great frugal tips however with a diesel engine … cheap is not always best and may cost in repairs down the road. We usually stick with Chevron gas whenever possible regardless of price. We’ve owned a diesel truck for 13 years and have learned a lot and many of our fellow diesel RVers share our sentiment.
June 22, 2018 at 11:53
Thanks for the insight, Ingrid. We avoid bio diesel at all cost, but our engine is 14 years old, and so far, seems to be fine with the additive-free diesel. We’ll do some research about this. We enjoyed the desert and its attractions, but are ready for Colorado now. 🙂
June 21, 2018 at 20:43
Your post reminds me of my first trip to Arizona last year – while your photos and the places I visited in Sedona, Pheonix, and Scottsdale are gorgeous, I remain even more certain that I must live near water. In other words, nice place to visit but…
June 22, 2018 at 11:58
I hear you about the visiting part. After house sitting and traveling for four months in New Mexico, in the wind and the high desert, we are more than ready for a change of scenery and a change of weather. But, then again, I love visiting different areas. Yet, we are starting to miss the water as well. We didn’t have that sentiment when house sitting in San Diego over the winter, or when living on our sailboat for eight years. 🙂 There’s pros and cons to every place and lifestyle…
June 23, 2018 at 22:02
Yes – I’d agree about pros and cons. And I love San Diego! I also love visiting different areas — I just finished a whirlwind round trip from Chicago to New York and back to pick up my son (48 hour turn around with no site seeing) and will do another ‘young person move’ from Chicago to Baton Rouge, Louisiana to California and back to Chicago at the end of July. I hope to fit in a few sites on my return trip.
June 28, 2018 at 03:04
Wow, Janet. That is a serious tour you’re planning the end of July! I hope you have the time to fit in some sights, to break up the trip and be awed! We just did a little train journey from Santa Fe to Chicago to Boston, and were glad not to be driving ourselves. We will do all this in return the end of July. We’ll wave at you in Chicago! 🙂
June 22, 2018 at 05:38
Hi Liesbet,
You led with the most important point – YAY re Mark’s health. The rest of your post was interesting, with excellent photos, but I confess that I was most preoccupied with thinking about how much lighter and happier you must be feeling now that the health scare is behind you. The tide has turned, my friend. Sunny days are around the corner ( to mix a couple of metaphors)
June 22, 2018 at 12:01
I can’t describe that day when we thought the worst, Karen… I’m glad we can “laugh” about it now. And, you are so right, once we received the good news, it was such a weight off our shoulders, and we could sleep again. 🙂 Crazy stuff, but, if all our check-ups go well in June, I am sooo looking forward to starting the next chapter of our lives in Zesty. To be able to breathe again and enjoy life… (I better not jinx it.)
June 22, 2018 at 06:59
Liesbet, we are toying with the idea of a trip out west in the autumn, so in addition to being entertaining, this post is also wonderful information. We will be camping in a small, towed camper, so your logistical details are great. Glad to hear that Mark’s medical emergency was a false alarm. All the best. ~James
June 22, 2018 at 12:03
Thanks for the well wishes, James. I didn’t know you guys had a little trailer. I’m sure you’ll LOVE your road trip out west this summer! Despite the crowds (which we will have to “fight” as well). The hardest part will be picking your destinations and route. Any plans for that yet?
June 23, 2018 at 13:56
It’s early days Liesbet, so we’re in the maybe stage. If it happens, it should be in September, after school is back in session and before it gets too cold in the high country. BTW, I enjoyed all the interior photos of Zesty. After our old bones got tired of sleeping on the ground, we considered lots of camping options, and we settled on a 625 lb, one-sided pop-up. As campers, you might get a kick out of this old post after our shakedown camping trip.
https://wordpress.com/post/gallivance.net/16729
~James
June 24, 2018 at 01:11
September must be the best month of the year (and June) to travel and camp in the US, James (except in Arizona and southern NM :-))! I’m looking forward to the crowds being gone by then. Thanks for the link. I’ll check it out one of these days, when I have a moment. Off to the Belgian coast with my mom now.
June 23, 2018 at 12:33
Hello James – My husband and I have done extensive traveling in our van (identical to Zesty). We were lucky enough to meet Liesbet and Mark on the road. You might want to check out my blog for some ideas. Feel free to contact me if you have any particular questions too. http://www.travelswithharvy.com
June 22, 2018 at 08:31
I’m so glad Mark’s health scare didn’t turn out to be what you had feared. Mesa Verde is amazing. It was one of the highlights of our time camping out west.
June 22, 2018 at 12:04
Mesa Verde was such a surprise, Ellen, since we didn’t know what to expect. I might have heard the term cliff dwellings before, but still had no idea what such things would look like. When Cliff Palace appeared in front of my eyes, I was awe-struck. 🙂
June 22, 2018 at 08:41
Liesbet, we loved the circular structure in the Chaco archaeological site. We had never heard of Chaco Indians and so it was interesting to read about and see their structures, Particularly interesting is that current architects and civil engineers are marveling at the energy efficiency of circular houses when these populations twelve hundred years ago had already figured out the merits of a circular structure.
That ladder and tiny entrance both look a bit challenging for those of us that are height sensitive or get somewhat claustrophobic, but no doubt it was worth it. Love the photos of all the different natural structures but can totally see how a forest would be a lovely contrast after all the dust and desert sun.
Peta & Ben
June 22, 2018 at 12:14
Hi guys! The ancient people were so much smarter than most people realize – they did so many things with intent. The way they used astronomy as well, is mind-blowing. Chaco Canyon is also a “Dark Sky Park”, where they keep lights at night to a bare minimum for safety. The night sky is fantastic.
Speaking of energy efficient, on the way into Taos, NM, we stumbled across an Earthship “settlement”. Check it out: https://www.earthshipglobal.com/ We stopped by the visitor center, after we saw a few houses partly buried in dirt, thinking ” what a great way for climate control”.
The Chaco Indians and other natives were much smaller than us, so they probably had less trouble using the tunnels, holes in the roofs, and small doorways. But yeah… Mark and I were wondering how the elderly maneuvered into the dwellings and down the ladders. Then, we realized that the average life expectancy was maybe around 40 or so. 🙂
June 22, 2018 at 09:17
Liesbet so glad to hear of the false alarm. what a relief. Your tour of the area looks remarkable and I am fascinated by Mesa Verde. Again so great to share the specifics of what works well and saves money while on the road.
June 22, 2018 at 12:18
Hi Sue! I”m glad you liked Mesa Verde. Fascinating is the right description! But, now we are ready for some lusher environments, and the Rockies in August… 🙂
June 23, 2018 at 07:45
I first visited Chaco Canyon 30 years ago and was completely blown away. When I thought the rest of my life was going to be sailing, I was disappointed that I would never get to take my husband there. Of course, now i know that I have absolutely no idea what the rest of my life will be, and was thrilled to take him there a couple of winters ago. As I suspected, he loved it.
We almost went to Mesa Verde last winter – tried to find boondocking near there, but ended up back in Cortez at the Walmart when we couldn’t find a spot. We ended up skipping Mesa Verde (we had just come from Hovenweep and Canyon of the Ancients), but after seeing your pics, we will have to put it on our must do list for another time!
June 24, 2018 at 00:53
Chaco Canyon must not have changed much in those 30 years. I wonder what the state of the gravel road was then. 🙂 How amazing that you managed to take your husband there! And, that it was as you remembered and you both liked it. I took my husband to a country (New Zealand) I loved when I was younger. I couldn’t wait to return, but it was a disappointment, since so many things had changed since 2000.
There is a good place to boondock about a mile from the entrance to Mesa Verde, in case you return. Or maybe, you know this and there wasn’t room? Look it up at http://www.freecampsites.com About 12 sites, I believe, with a few extra spot to park that aren’t numbered. and not busy when we went earlier this month.
June 23, 2018 at 12:26
is the 14-mile long dirt road the only way to get to Chaco Canyon? Al doesn’t like to jostle HaRVy that much, which is why we have not gone there. It sure looks interesting though…maybe next time…if there is a next time. 🙂
June 24, 2018 at 00:57
It is the best way to get to Chaco, Leslie. The first 10 miles aren’t too bad. We just took it slow and the ruts were not too crazy. We managed to do about 10 miles an hour on that. But, the last four miles were “terrible”. Our speed dropped to 5 miles an hour or so, and this last stretch took us an extra hour, because we obviously don’t want to break anything and were really careful. But, our patience wore thin. On the return trip, we knew what to expect, and things went smoother (mental-wise). We’re happy we went, though, but we won’t do it again. I’m not sure – knowing what we know now, whether we would have attempted it in the first place. The park was very special and magical, though…
June 23, 2018 at 17:38
Liesbet, this post outlines exactly where I want to visit when we get the chance! I love your photos and details. I have been a fan of author Tony Hillerman who wrote about the adventures of Navajo police officers Chee and Leaphorn, and the setting you describe in northeast Arizona and that four corners country is where the books take place. Reading about Navajo lore is fascinating plus the books are all murder mysteries. I just finished Anne Hillerman’s book Spider Woman’s Daughter (she took up writing once her father passed) and continues the series. This book was all about the Chaco Canyon area and it’s pottery, etc. Your photos really illuminated the area (too bad I didn’t see this post now that I literally just finished the book), but I can now see in my mind’s eye the area when I read the next few books. I’ll bet with this HOT weather out west, you are looking for cooler temps! Glad to read Mark is OK, tell him I say hi!
June 28, 2018 at 03:09
Funny you mention Tony Hillerman. I had never heard of him, but the home owner where we last house sat in Santa Fe, told us about him and lent us two of his books, since we will return there after six weeks. Mark started reading one on the Amtrak train, and I hope I’ll have the time to get a taste of his writing and stories as well, once I return to the East Coast, for our last two weeks there. I really wish I could read more. I”m looking forward to being able to imagine the scenery he writes about.
I do hope you two – with the dogs – can set out and explore in your RV soon. It’s a fascinating and interesting lifestyle that offers so much diversity. Mark says hi back. We phone almost every day while I’m in Belgium. We both still need intense check-ups in July, but so far, all is normal. 🙂
June 24, 2018 at 16:38
HI Liesbet
This is amazing. The ruins and your photographs are beautiful. Thank you for the guided tour.
Sorry about the windshield
Laura
June 28, 2018 at 02:41
I’m glad you liked the visual tour through the Indian ruins, Laura. It’s a special place!
June 25, 2018 at 05:19
Thanks, Liesbet, for sharing your recap and beautiful photos. Chaco Canyon and Cliff Palace look amazing. Hope you’re having a fabulous time in Belgium.
June 28, 2018 at 02:43
My visit to Belgium is busy, but satisfying so far, Natalie. It’s a totally different experience to be part of a whole family, have people around and talk a lot, every day. I’ll soak it up, be overwhelmed, and be OK without it the rest of the year. 🙂
June 25, 2018 at 22:43
What a neat place! I’d love to visit some day. Looks very inspiring.
Glad to hear Mark is okay.
June 28, 2018 at 02:44
Thanks, JH. I’m sure you can come up with quite a few ghostly and scary stories set in these fascinating ruins, just immersing yourself in one of these places for a day. I highly recommend you visit, actually, so we can read later what might/could have happened. 🙂
June 26, 2018 at 18:57
Wowwwwwwwwww, spectacular photos my friend. Those cave dwellings are amazing! Grr, I’m sorry to hear that stupid windshield episode is still not right. How incompetent are those people! But on a good note, so happy to hear that Mark is well. 🙂 x
June 28, 2018 at 02:46
Yep, happy about the health situation (for now)! And, supposedly, the windshield is fixed, last we water tested. Once we return to Santa Fe after the visits to family and friends, we will give it another sprinkle, before we move north.
Those dwellings might have to go on your to-do list, Debby. Fascinating places!
June 27, 2018 at 03:47
What amazing places you visit, Liesbet. How do you find out about these places? Is it a simple case of checking the web? The heat would have killed me, but I love all the history of these places you visit. In some cases, it’s almost like looking at roman ruins.
Sorry to hear about the ‘still’ leaky windscreen, but glad to hear the good news about Mark’s health.
June 28, 2018 at 02:59
I’m not much of an internet researcher, Hugh. Enough screen time already for work reasons. But, I do like travel guides, brochures and the national parks of the US (for its nature, culture and wildlife), thinking that all parks with that distinction must be worthwhile to visit.
When we house sat in Santa Fe last summer, I picked up a brochure of all the National Parks and Monuments in the state of New Mexico. Since we only had four weekends back then, and Santa Fe already offered enough parks to keep us busy that month, I hoped to return to the area another time. So, when we committed to this last two-month spring house sit for the same owners in Santa Fe, I looked forward to exploring some of those parks. But, the strong winds, long driving distances, and our work situation kept us from venturing far over the weekends.
When the plan formed to live two weeks in our camper after that last house sit, I knew which route we would take. As far as Mesa Verde, I’d heard about it, since it is a relatively famous National Park, so we added it to our loose itinerary not knowing what to expect. 🙂
June 27, 2018 at 14:23
I’m on the road but slowly catching up on blogs! The houses with ladder and tunnel access are so amazing – pretty sure that would be my favorite part!
June 28, 2018 at 03:01
There’s another park with just that near Santa Fe, Lexie. It’s called Bandelier National Park. The ladders are longer and more frequent, and you can visit without going on a tour. Not sure whether you’ve been there already. Enjoy your time on the road. I assume going to Madagaskar was too tricky? Or, is that why you’re on the road?
June 28, 2018 at 08:33
I’m on a road trip swing through New England right now and will head north again for a few weeks after flying home to Texas this weekend. And then …. in mid-August, I head to Madagascar!!! Yes, I will finally meet up with Lisa and spend a week exploring and maybe taking a brief sail or two on Amandla. I can’t believe I actually pulled the trigger, butt I found flights using miles both directions at a time that worked for me and for her. Amazing – can’t wait to go!
June 29, 2018 at 02:52
So, now you’re in New England, and I’m not for another two weeks! 🙂 I’m so envious of your trip to Madagascar, and extremely excited you get to spend time with Lisa in a fascinating country. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy! And, give her and Fabio a big hug from me and Mark. Yay!
July 1, 2018 at 20:06
So many near misses! We will cross paths someday, I’m sure!
July 3, 2018 at 04:10
Very sure! If you can make it to Madagaskar, you can make it to everywhere. 🙂
July 8, 2018 at 13:04
What fascinating Chaco, Pueblo, and Aztec structures! I would love to visit them someday, although being a cold-blooded Canadian, it would have to be at a cooler time of year.
Jude
July 9, 2018 at 02:03
Yes! I do think the spring and the fall would be better times to visit these ruins: less crowded and more pleasant climes. But, heavy rains might make some sites inaccessible. I hope you manage to get down there one of these years, Jude. Not too many people apparently know that there is such long-standing and intriguing culture in the US.