Most people who visit Porto really like it, so I did have a level of expectation about it. Usually, that’s not a good thing and we try to avoid it, but … Porto didn’t disappoint. And I liked it better than Lisbon.

Welcome to Porto!

Quick stop in Lisbon

Our “big adventure” started on April 4th, when our easy travels by rental car came to an end. The logistics from this day on – how do we get to Belgium with Maya without a car? – had been weighing on us and a lot of research, planning, and reserving had recently become a part of our lives. None of which we normally do.

Crossing the Vasco da Gama bridge into Lisbon by car

The Vasco da Gama bridge is 7.5 miles (12 km) long and the second-longest one in Europe. It is also the longest bridge in the EU.

After the 2.5-hour drive from our last rental house in Cuba with our already vacuumed car, Mark dropped Maya, me, and our five pieces of luggage off at the Oriente train station in Lisbon, before removing the last of Maya’s hairs with a lint roller. We had heard that there are heavy fines when you return a rental car with dog hair. 

Maya and I sat on a blanket outside the station – and were almost reprimanded by security guards as being homeless loiterers (because that’s what this scene might have looked like; and in a way, we were) – and waited for Mark for an hour and a half. Luckily, returning the Seat rental car after nine weeks wasn’t an issue.

All our belongings at the moment

Waiting for Mark at the train station

Then, all of us had to wait for another four hours (because we booked the cheapest train fare) before we could hop aboard for the 3.5-hour journey to Porto. Mark and I took turns staying with Maya and the luggage, when the other person stretched their legs.

A big mall in Lisbon East

Exploring the waterfront during my long wait

Vasco da Gama bridge

Very cool statue of a lynx made of recycled materials. His feet are old trash containers.

The train ride went relatively smoothly, despite us not having picked good seats – this was our first experience on a train with a dog and Maya’s first train trip as well – and our dog having to be muzzled.

Most of our waiting time was spent at this cafe

Not the most comfy train ride…

Porto

The three of us took a cab from the Campanhã train station to our rental accommodation in the Bonfim district and we are glad we did as it would have been a long, uphill walk with quite a bit of luggage.

Our train station in Porto

Living room and kitchen area

Again, we had picked an interesting apartment. We mostly liked it but there were some oddities, like having the shower stall in the actual bedroom and the toilet in a closet. Is that where the European term WC – Water Closet – comes from?

The bedroom of our Porto apartment

Our toilet closet

We did get used to these quirks when we figured out that “backing into” the toilet closet after pulling our pants down and bending over was the easiest way to take care of business. The kitchen was inadequate for longer stays, but being here for only four nights worked just fine. And, as always, the walls were thin.

Since we had arrived quite late that first evening, we decided to grab a fast meal at a vegan place nearby. Little did we realize that this was a fancy, set-menu experience only. We would have liked to have arrived earlier for such a feast, but we nevertheless indulged in this four-course meal at 9pm! It was a nice surprise to learn that Maya was welcome inside and coddled.

First course of the vegan tasting menu

The second course was a delicious beet salad

Third course of the evening

One of the two main dishes consisted of roasted vegetables.

The second main dish

Day one

Our first full day in the city started with a delicious brunch at Tomás Coffee Brunch, something we never do. When we go out, it’s usually for the main meal of the day, at lunch or dinner time. Again, Maya was welcome inside!

A nice breakfast in Porto!

The vegetarian brunch platter for Mark

A salmon brunch platter for me

In the afternoon, we explored the Bolhão (only a few minutes “down the road”) and Ribeira districts on a self-guided walking tour. It brought us past cool churches, buildings, and plazas. We were so happy it was a sunny and warm day.

Sign in the sidewalk near the Bolhao market

The Chapel of Souls tiled church

Porto’s city hall

Random building in the historic center

The Igreja do Carmo (right, 18th century, with blue tiles) and the Igreja dos Carmelitas (left, 17th century, classic façade). are separated by a 1-meter-wide house. They look like one massive church but are separate, divided by the “Hidden House” (Casa Escondida)

The Thirteen Laughing at Each Other statue by Juan Muñoz is located in Jardim da Cordoaria

Jardim da Cordoaria

Mural near this central park

The Torre dos Clérigos (Clérigos Tower) is a 75-meter-tall (246 ft) Baroque tower designed by Nicolau Nasoni and completed in 1763

The backside of the church that’s attached to Clérigos Tower

We gazed at a couple of tiled churches and strolled down towards the water, where we found a surprisingly lively scene, after enjoying the peace in the back alleys of Ribeira, which is located much lower than Bolhão. We had no idea this city was built on a hill too.

A nice square that is now under construction.

São Bento train station

The inside of this train station is a work of art with most walls covered by blue-tiled scenes.

View over Porto’s center from Miradouro da Rua das Aldas

Porto Cathedral

Another view from Miradouro da Rua das Aldas

Entering the Ribeira district

Narrow alleys in Ribeira

Colorful buildings in Ribeira as we descend towards the Douro River