Bisbee, AZ, has been on our radar for a while. A few years ago, when discovering the desert southwest in our camper van Zesty, we met fellow travelers in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in Arizona and the Vermilion Cliffs in Utah who told us Bisbee was the perfect place to settle. Apparently, property still appeared affordable, creative people abound, the atmosphere oozed friendliness, a liberal and diverse population inhabited the scene, and the weather was perfect. Right.
Next time we’d return to Southern Arizona, we would check out Bisbee. In the meantime, Mark kept an eye on its house listings on Zillow. Surprisingly, everything that went up for sale, especially the cute, renovated miners’ cottages, disappeared within weeks if not days. Bisbee had been discovered! Not that we are thinking of putting down roots anywhere…
Approaching Bisbee for the first time
This week, our trio finally parked Zesty in Old Bisbee, friends Duwan and Greg from Make Like An Ape Man in tow. We would explore the town inside and out to get a feel for the different areas, the layout, the atmosphere, the pros, and the cons. Being able to park overnight for free in the middle of this hillside enclave was a good start!
Located 90 miles southeast of Tucson and nestled in the Mule Mountains, Bisbee was founded in 1880. It quickly became a booming (copper) mining town that still sports a well-preserved historic downtown with steep roads and many – seemingly infinite – staircases acting as entryways and shortcuts.
Today, Bisbee is a “free-spirited place” with a thriving arts/music/hospitality scene. Because of its higher elevation (5,300ft above sea level), summers are not as scorching hot as in Tucson or Phoenix, where the temperature often exceeds 100˚F (38˚C).
But… because of this elevation, we were all in for a bit of a surprise when nighttime temperatures dipped below freezing and wearing winter clothes became the norm. If you thought Southern Arizona offered warm winters, think again! It might be time to drive to lower elevations or south of the border soon, if we want a more pleasant climate this upcoming season…
Here is a glimpse of our now beloved Bisbee, which contains several districts.
Old Bisbee
Mark, Maya, and I walked for miles, all over town, up and down, there and back. On our last morning, we wanted to see where a particular road would lead us… Right into a canyon!
Queen Mine
A tour of the Queen Mine lasts about an hour and brings you into the mountain with an experienced guide (an ex-miner). Due to the pandemic, the groups are kept small (maximum of 9 people instead of 40), social distancing is practiced, masks are required, and sanitizing stations are plentiful.
Lavender Pit, part of one of Bisbee’s mines
Lowell
This street in Lowell is frozen in time!
Have you ever been to Bisbee? What’s your favorite small town with character?
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December 16, 2020 at 17:43
Bisbee looks neat but you’re at about the same altitude as us here in Denver!!! Lower your altitude and southern Arizona can be much more pleasant in the winter. We’re actually heading out west next week and circling back through Yuma, Tucson and Phoenix. Those places are definitely warmer. Glad you’re safe.
Steve
December 18, 2020 at 12:32
Hi Steve! I’m excited for you both to be hitting the road again for a while too. Sick of the cold winter in Denver? 🙂
We will drive to lower elevations soon. Just wanted to check out a few of these places since we were in the area. We spent a couple of springs in the desert southwest before and – being cold then as well – we researched the warmest place in the area: Yuma! So, if we really get sick of the icy nights, that’s where we will be going. Maybe our paths will cross this winter???
December 16, 2020 at 17:58
I’ve had Bisbee on my wanna see list for a while. One of these days, I’m sure we’ll get there. Your pictures sort of reminded me of Jerome, AZ… have you been there?
December 18, 2020 at 12:34
Hi Janis! If you liked Jerome, you will love Bisbee. Both are old mining towns. Bisbee is much bigger and we spent substantially more time there. We somehow stumbled upon Jerome (something we often seem to do…) on our way to Sedona a few years ago. It was a nice surprise. This visit to Bisbee was “planned” and anticipated! 🙂
December 18, 2020 at 18:14
Hi Janis and Liesbet, We live less than an hour from Jerome. Last time I went there – this summer when we were looking for houses, we drove through and it looked like the ghost town it was decades ago. We saw four old men on the streets. PERIOD! Normally the town is crowded with tourists. 🙂
December 19, 2020 at 00:15
Jerome sure must have looked different and a tad surreal during your stop last summer, Masha! Just like many tourist towns. How do you like your new digs and surroundings?
December 16, 2020 at 18:20
Thank you, Liesbet, for the virtual tour of Bisbee. The steep staircases would provide good workouts 🙂 It would be neat to visit that street in Lowell.
December 18, 2020 at 12:35
I thought you might notice the correlation between stairs and exercise, Natalie. It’s one of the remarks I had when exploring Bisbee: if we were ever to live here, we would surely get enough exercise just walking to and from the center of town! Or, from the car to the front door… 🙂
December 16, 2020 at 18:32
Liesbet, thanks for the tip about this town. We have added it to our “Wish List” of places to check out. Your blog posts are always helpful!!!
December 18, 2020 at 12:37
Hi guys! I’m glad you liked my post about Bisbee. I think this artsy, progressive town is right up your alley. Lots of RV parks around as well and a big free parking lot at the entrance of town, where I saw bigger rigs parked. Looking forward to reading your latest post one of these days. 🙂
December 16, 2020 at 18:34
Hi Liesbet! Yes I’ve been to Bisbee. It didn’t do much for me. We went in the summer when the weather was best and it was jammed full of tourists. The shops and restaurants were full. I believe we stayed in a B & B but we felt the town was too small for the enormous amount of tourists that wanted to visit. I also didn’t like the scar from the mine. That always makes me sad when I see what humans have done to the planet in such a visual way–and I think it’s created a water pollution problem as well. The town is very liberal, which is good as well as a focus on the arts. But we’ve visited a number of older western towns like, Old Colorado City in Colorado, Durango CO, Silver City NM and quite a few in the mountains of Colorado, and Bisbee wasn’t on the short list. I think you were very fortunate to be there when crowds are low. But hey, just being able to travel now is a privilege so I’m glad to see you enjoyed your time there. ~Kathy
December 18, 2020 at 12:42
Hi Kathy!
I’m sorry Bisbee didn’t do it for you. I can imagine the summer being busy as it is a little cooler than in the valleys. I didn’t hear anything about the water pollution. That would make things sadder, for sure. I do think that the town did a great job reviving itself after the mining days and keeping the place clean and innovative.
We had some of the towns you mention on our “list to check out” if we ever wanted to settle somewhere. But, just realizing how cold Bisbee actually is in the winter makes those other, more northern and higher elevation towns fall of our list. 🙂
December 16, 2020 at 18:40
Well it sounds wonderful. I’ll have to check it out.
December 18, 2020 at 12:42
A town with character, Jacqui! 🙂
December 16, 2020 at 18:44
Looks so very charming and full of character! Other than the freezing cold nights hah. It does remind me of Boulder Colorado ~ I think Boulder qualified as a small town when we were there over a decade ago but I’m not sure it still does… the architecture is very similar to this. Love the photos especially old Bisbre with the red brick building!
Glad to see you three are faring v well. Esco gets tired easily so for long walks we have to leave him in the car or where ever we are staying.
Peta
December 18, 2020 at 12:45
Hi Peta!
Boulder – while attractive and cute – has become too popular and expensive for the likes of us. While the summer season would be perfect, we’d be pretty unhappy at that elevation in any other season.
Bisbee sure has character and a vibe you two would love. Mark said he could deal with the cold nights if we were to live in a house there. The winter is very short and the days are filled with blue skies and sunshine, which is important to us. Lots of hiking around as well, short and long options, something suitable for every dog. 🙂
December 16, 2020 at 18:46
With temps in the 30’s and rain…I’m ready to move, Liesbet. I love Southern Arizona. As you know, Tubac is one of our favorites. Thanks for the tour of Bisbee.
December 18, 2020 at 12:47
Oh Jill! I’m sorry to read the weather has turned for the worse in your area now. Have you ever thought about moving (back) to Arizona? That sunshine can’t be beat. Although, an alternative would have to be found during the summers!
On a different note: thank you sooo much for leaving such a positive and thoughtful review for Plunge on Amazon and Goodreads!!! xxx
December 18, 2020 at 19:50
It was my pleasure, Liesbet. I really enjoyed the escape! I put my review BookBub as well. We never lived in Arizona, we only went their on golf trips. We loved the summer heat!
December 19, 2020 at 00:18
You loved the summer heat in Arizona? Well, luckily it’s dry heat. Very different from the East Coast. 🙂
December 16, 2020 at 20:31
Hi, Liesbet – I enjoy exploring small towns and getting to know their individual personalities. Bisbee looks fun and funky. I love the photos that you have shared here!
December 18, 2020 at 12:49
Hi Donna! I’m glad you liked this little virtual tour. I took hundreds of photos in this town and hope to reveal a few more in the future, as I work around a couple of themes. Well, that’s the thought right now anyway. We will have to see if other “material” appears before that. 🙂
December 16, 2020 at 22:40
We loved our visit to Bisbee too! It’s a fun and interesting town that has retained its unique character. One thing we learned about was the “Bisbee 1000” – a race held every year which involves a trek all around and through the town, including over 1,000 stair steps! People of all fitness levels take part in the race, but the nice thing is you can get a copy of the route map and just do the course on your own any time. It’s a nice way to see the whole town and challenge yourself with all those steps! Glad you enjoyed your visit!!
December 18, 2020 at 12:51
I didn’t hear (or see) anything about that Bisbee 1,000 challenge. The visitor center was closed due to Covid when we were there a few days ago. If we ever go back, I’d love to pick up that map and battle those steps… Thanks for mentioning it to us and I’m glad you two liked Bisbee as well. It would be nice to compare notes in person about a few places one day!!!
December 17, 2020 at 08:46
There are so many of these small towns out west with their western/Victorian looks, but I can’t recall too many with those massive sets of stairs! Glad you found a place you liked to (not exactly) settle for a little bit!
December 18, 2020 at 12:55
Hi Lexie! Yes, funky, cute, historic, old mining towns abound in the US southwest! When we walked through Bisbee, Jerome came to mind (which Janis also pointed out), although Bisbee is much bigger and – in its heyday tourist season – probably busier as well. All is very quiet now, wherever we stroll. And, most places adhere to a safe environment and mask and social distancing rules. Most, I said. This doesn’t include the last western town – which might be the most famous one – we visited, yesterday! Care to guess which one that is? 🙂
December 18, 2020 at 17:05
Ha – I can’t! I find that mask compliance is all over the map in the whole country! Some great, some awful, and some in between, with no real geographic sense. Glad you are finding mostly good behavior.
December 19, 2020 at 00:14
Southern Arizona hasn’t been too bad regarding mask wearing. We have found a big discrepancy between more liberal and less liberal towns and areas. Consistently. Another very prominent correlation in the most famous of shoot-out towns!
December 17, 2020 at 10:16
I’ve visited Arizona once, but didn’t catch Bisbee, which looks like it’s prospering as a tourist destination. I’d like the arts community but probably not the temperatures you describe.
Merry Christmas to you, Mark, Maya in cozy Zesty! 🙂
December 18, 2020 at 12:57
To be honest, Marian, the temperature here might be similar to Northern Florida, but in a dry way. I remember being cold at night in the St. Augustine area in January, with night temps around 30 degrees and frost in the morning. The good thing, here in Arizona as well as in Florida, is that the winters are short! Happy Holidays to you and Cliff as well! xx
December 17, 2020 at 10:17
Before walking around town, Al wanted to explore a bit in the truck… ignoring my recommendation NOT TO. We almost got stuck driving the F-250 with extended bed on one of the tight tiny side roads. After that close call, we explored Bisbee via foot. Another lesson learned 😆
December 18, 2020 at 13:00
I can totally imagine that scenario with the big truck in Bisbee, Ingrid!! Better to park at the edge of town, where free and large parking areas exist, and walk. That being said, we found a smaller, free parking area a couple of blocks into the city center, where we “camped” for two nights. All was well until we needed to leave the parking lot a different way (one way in and out). Despite trying to be careful, but not seeing an alternative, we did drive under a low-hanging tree with two major scratches as a result. We were gutted! We take such good care of Zesty and this was really a stupid move. Luckily, Mark managed to buff out the scratches from the acrylic window and the fiberglass topside.
December 17, 2020 at 12:15
Great pic of you and Maya! So much fun! Thanks for letting us tag along.
December 18, 2020 at 13:35
Thanks for coming along! We enjoyed your company, as always! See you soon in Ajo… 🙂
December 17, 2020 at 13:41
Thank you, Liesbet, for the tour. We like to explore small towns, but haven’t made it to Bisbee yet. We do like Jerome, Arizona, and Silver City, New Mexico….the old mining camps have plenty of interesting history.
December 18, 2020 at 13:39
Hi Sherida! We have been to Jerome before, briefly, but Silver City now has our curiosity since a few people here have mentioned it. I enjoy the architecture of all these historic buildings and, like you say, the history of the mining industry is interesting as well. There are many of them, in Northern California as well. We usually don’t go on tours or spend money on entertainment, but would love to “splurge” more with this in the future. We are well on our way to becoming “real” tourists. 🙂
December 17, 2020 at 16:13
Small towns that stand out in my mind from our travels out west include Salida, Colorado; Livingston, Montana; and Madrid, New Mexico. Have you visited any of them?
December 18, 2020 at 13:41
Hi Leslie! Yes, we have been to Salida in Colorado – twice, as we really enjoy walking through this town and along the river – and to Madrid in New Mexico, which is tiny yet artsy. If Salida wouldn’t be so expensive for property and a tad warmer, it would be on our shortlist to settle one day. Very outdoorsy and pretty surroundings as well! We have not been to Livingston, Montana. My guess is this town would be way too cold for us in winter. 🙂
December 17, 2020 at 23:15
I love the street in Lowell! Arizona is on my list of “places to go back to”. I’ve been there a couple of times but never had enough time to explore it properly. Maybe someday…
December 18, 2020 at 13:48
Someday, Diane… I think Southern Arizona is a perfect place for Canadians to have a winter home. 🙂
December 18, 2020 at 06:54
No, I’ve never been, but I’d love to. I thought it would be a hot and dusty place, but the elevation seems to give it the perfect weather I’d enjoy. Do they ever get any snow, Liesbet?
December 18, 2020 at 13:51
Hi Hugh! I think you’d enjoy Bisbee in winter the most as it can get very hot still in summertime. When we kept an eye online on its temperatures this past summer (as part of our research into this place to potentially buy property :-)), it was often in the upper eighties! But, it is dry heat… 🙂 I don’t think it ever snows in Bisbee itself. Yet, since it’s been unseasonably cold recently, we have spotted snow on top of the surrounding mountains.
December 19, 2020 at 10:06
It reminds a little of the Island of Cyprus, Liesebt. When we used to go there, you could ski in the morning and be on the beach sunbathing in the afternoon. Upper 80s with a dry heat sounds good to me.
December 19, 2020 at 22:31
Cyprus sounds lovely, Hugh! I’ve been there once, a long time ago, when I still lived in a Belgium, but I don’t remember snow in the mountains. I’d prefer the beach and eighties! 🙂
December 20, 2020 at 07:55
Only during the winter months does it snow, but they have their own ski-resort. I remember going there just before New Year one year. Wrapped up warm in the mountains, but back to shorts and short-sleeves on the coast. Most of the Cypriots wore warm clothes on the coast, though. It was too cold for them to be in shorts and short-sleeves. Got a little chilly at night.
December 22, 2020 at 16:55
I’d love to return to Cyprus one day, Hugh. I hopped over there for a quick last-minute one-week vacation from Belgium during a college break when I was 20. People tolerate heat and cold in different ways. Real New Englanders, for example, wear shorts from the moment the sun is out. Even though it’s 40 degrees Fahrenheit! 🙂
December 23, 2020 at 04:15
I must be a New Englander then, Liesbet. 😁
December 26, 2020 at 11:18
🙂
December 18, 2020 at 13:42
For a moment i thought this post was leading to a house purchase! Bisbee looks like a charming spot. I have heard of it before but have not visited. amazing how altitude affects those night time temperatures.
December 18, 2020 at 13:53
Hi Sue! Wouldn’t that be something? Mark and I purchasing a house… Did you know that I never owned my own place (or a car)? We’ve been playing with the idea of getting a home base (not necessarily live there yet), but it truly scares me. So much responsibility and such a burden. We will see what the future brings! 🙂
December 18, 2020 at 14:31
Great post. Our favorite place in Arizona for cooler weather was Flagstaff. Have you been there? Bisbee looks very interesting to visit.
December 19, 2020 at 00:08
Yes, we briefly stopped in Flagstaff a couple of years ago, on our way north. It was smaller than I imagined and the altitude made it chilly that particular spring. Perfect during the summer, I’m sure. 🙂
December 18, 2020 at 18:17
I thought it would be hotter than what you are saying. It looks beautiful from the pictures. I haven’t been to southern AZ except to fly into Tucson for a short visit years ago.
December 19, 2020 at 00:17
Me too! I thought it would be warmer in the winter. But, I’m glad we got to experience first-hand what the weather is like during the winter. Did you do a lot of research into the northern Arizona climate before moving there, Marsha?
December 19, 2020 at 05:33
This is a lovely tour of part of Bisbee. Never been to Bisbee, let alone the States. Maybe some day. Didn’t know winter nights there could be freezing, and good that you had winter clothes. Good that it was just cold and no wild winter weather there on your visit. Lovely shots 🙂
December 19, 2020 at 22:27
Thanks, Mabel! We were a bit surprised to find that it gets this cold in the mountains of Southern Arizona. But, it’s beautiful here and the sky is always blue! I hope you’ll be able to visit the Arizona desert one day. The only place in mainland USA where it is consistently warm in the winter is Florida. But, we are not too fond of that state for other reasons. 🙂
December 19, 2020 at 09:06
Bright clear days and crispy, star-spangled evenings are the norm here, but it’s milder at present and a little damp. Hoping it clears for the Winter Solstice, when there are set to be some good planetary sightings. 🙂 🙂 All the very best in the year ahead, Liesbet! Merry Christmas!
December 19, 2020 at 22:30
Merry Christmas to you too, Jo. We are hoping to make it to the wide open desert again by the winter solstice to keep an eye out (through our skylight in the van) for those sightings. After a few days of visiting towns and stores, we are ready to leave civilization (and non-mask wearing people) behind!
December 19, 2020 at 20:09
Now you have put Bisbee on my radar, Liesbet. Fun for me to explore this town with you and Mark. It is a huge deal to lay down roots, even to consider it. The staircases are intriguing. We travelled through parts of Arizona one year in September. We were surprised at how the temperature rapidly changed depending on elevation and night time versus day time. The Queen Mine tour looks fascinating. Your phrase “frozen in time” fits perfectly. I am catching up reading my favourite bloggers, Liesbet. We have had some challenges this past month. I had preordered “Roaming About” and it will be my reading reward over Christmas. ❤️
December 19, 2020 at 20:12
I meant to write “Plunge” Liesbet. You likely figured this out. 🙂
December 19, 2020 at 22:35
🙂
December 19, 2020 at 22:35
Welcome back, Erica! I’ve missed you. I hope you and your family are doing okay? Challenges the way you mention them are never good, especially during the pandemic. Thinking about you!!
I’m glad you enjoyed my Bisbee post. It is a special place. Quite crowded and built-up in a way, but as far as cute and historic towns go, this one certainly has potential! And, there are quieter areas. 🙂
Thank you for purchasing Plunge (I knew what you meant) and happy reading! I’ll take you away from the cold and the challenges (hopefully) into a different world. With different challenges…
Happy holidays, my friend!
December 21, 2020 at 09:06
❤️
December 20, 2020 at 23:48
Will you staying lon in Bisbee, Liesbet? It seems to suit you. Winters in AZ can be cold but it is refreshing. So many friends and family members have moved to various places in AZ, it’s quite amazing. Beautiful shots of a fun town!
December 22, 2020 at 16:58
Hi Terri! We were in Bisbee just for a couple of days, to check it out. I can totally get why so many people move to Arizona. It might be the place for us as well. But, 1) we are not ready to settle yet, and 2) why wouldn’t we look for something abroad, where it is cheaper and warmer?
December 21, 2020 at 20:29
Thanks for the tour in Bisbee Liesbet. I’d never heard of it. Enjoy your AZ Christmas holidays and stay safe! <3
December 22, 2020 at 17:00
Bisbee is very close to the Mexican border, Debby. And it’s a little liberal enclave. 🙂 But, it has been discovered… houses and property go fast! Happy holidays! Xx
December 23, 2020 at 16:05
Thanks for the tip! Have fun!!! xox
December 26, 2020 at 11:25
You always said you’d return to Arizona if a certain event happened… Now, all you have to do is wait until the pandemic is passée! 🙂
December 26, 2020 at 14:40
You have a great memory! And yes, and also grateful because Colleen is moving away from there next week, but Marsha just moved there recently LOL. So yes, I’ll have a place to stay and I can dust off my passport. <3
December 26, 2020 at 15:37
Great idea! And, great excuse! Arizona 2021! 🙂 Maybe we’re still here whenever you head down again.
December 23, 2020 at 17:07
Haha. Can’t help it, thinking of Mark when the weather suddenly plummeted at night. New England, anyone? Actually, Bisbee sounds delightful. I’m embarrassed to say that Arizona is one of the few states I haven’t visited, and I really want to. Soon. Like in January when it’s 20 degrees here! 🙂 GREAT photos!
December 26, 2020 at 11:28
I think we will pass on New England right now, Pam. But, thank you for the offer. 🙂
I’ve heard rumors that December is the coldest month in Arizona, so if you come in January, it might be pleasant. You will love this state. Very diverse and pretty in an arid way.
FYI, we had one morning that the temperature was 17 degrees! One of our water lines was frozen! This has never happened to Zesty before, not even in Kentucky last winter. I’d say that was pretty chilly…
December 28, 2020 at 08:32
Brrrrr. Time to move down into the “hotter” zones… ?
January 4, 2021 at 17:19
Finally 70s in the desert this week, but still chilly at night (40s)! But, we have plans to head further south later this month. Stay tuned! 🙂
January 3, 2021 at 21:26
Bisbee looks very quaint and interesting. As you can imagine, because BC has a resource-based economy, many of the communities here began as mining towns, including Nanaimo (coal). Similar to California and Alaska, there were a number of gold rushes in BC and the Yukon a century ago. I always love visiting towns that retain evidence of the history of their origin.
If you ever decide you’d like to try settling in a place (a new adventure in itself!), I’d suggest renting there first. Bisbee looks like a great “maybe.”
Jude
January 4, 2021 at 17:33
California has a lot of “old west,” mining, and ghost towns. I love what they did to revitalize or repurpose many of them. Bisbee felt more special, because we have been anticipating a visit here for years. Good idea about the renting – or camping in Zesty for a while or house sitting! 🙂