Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Winter at Palm Oases in the Desert

Disclaimer: Mark and I are wimps when it comes to cold weather. We realize that a lot of people in North America have to deal with extreme winter conditions. To them, this post might come across as whiny and we might be called “spoiled brats”. We’ll take it, as long as we don’t have to move up north! ????

The first winter Mark and I were back in the United States after sailing on Irie in the tropics for eight years, we decided to house and pet sit in Massachusetts and Connecticut. “Since you’ve never shoveled snow in your life, you have to experience it at least once,” my husband reasoned. Despite 2015-2016 being a “mild” winter, one of those in New England was enough. And, I did get to play in the snow

The following fall, we drove our little Prius across the country for a winter of house sitting in Northern California. Who would have guessed it’s actually chilly there during that period of the year? We needed to run the heat or start the wood fire every morning and the following spring was the coldest and wettest in ages. We seem to attract extremes, which put an end to the long drought in California. You’re welcome!

Our next plan to stay warm during the winter was a 3.5-month house sit in San Diego, CA. The days were alright, but the old house wasn’t insulated well. And, who turns the heat on in San Diego? It was another cold winter for us, followed by an extremely chilly and windy spring in New Mexico. Obviously, we were starting to run out of options.

Green desert in Borrego Springs, CA – yes, that’s snow on the hills

This winter started OK, with house and pet sits in Southern California in cozy, warm homes. A two-week trip back to New England in January was almost tolerable. Then, we hit the road in our camper van, Zesty, to get warm again. Except… we couldn’t find warmth anywhere. We spent a couple of weeks in beautiful Borrego Springs, dealing with wind and rain (yes, you can thank us as well for the super bloom in that area right now), gazing at a green desert. Isn’t a desert supposed to be dry and hot? Not this year. I had a bunch of work to do and a 19ft living space gets small for two people after a while.

Where could we go next? It was mid-February and we were still shivering, living in a tin box. Yes, we have a heater and can make it comfy, but it was in the 40s and lower 50s outside with a chilling wind making outdoor activities like biking and hiking unpleasant.  We checked the weather across the Southwest and in Baja California. Apart from driving 1000 miles into Mexico or all the way to Southern Florida, the area around Yuma, AZ seemed like the warmest option. We boondocked (free dry camping) at a spot we read and dreamed about months prior: a palm oasis near Holtsville, CA. We stayed for a week, hoping to store the wool hat (which I’m wearing again these days).

Our backyard contained the most picturesque oasis we’d ever set eyes on. The spring water was clear, clean, and beautiful. But… while they are called hot springs, warm springs would be a more adequate term.  Mark and I did enjoy them every day, as long as we remained submerged. Coming out, the icy wind whipped us unmercifully until we were dry and covered with winter clothes!

Our next plan of action was to check out the real hot springs in Holtsville. Less of a secret, these two basins were filled with long-term campers and passersby. Once Mark and I were surrounded by this marvelous water, we both sighed; we finally felt warm. Hot even.

The weather improved a tad as well. Towards the end of February, we enjoyed a few wonderful days with friends at Senator Wash Reservoir, north of Yuma.

Do you enjoy hot springs? What are your favorites? Or, do you have a hot tub at home?


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47 Comments

  1. Hi Liesbet! Yes it was a particularly cool winter even here in the desert. It has finally warmed up for us so I’m not surprised you are warmer too. Did you ever get a chance to check out Desert Hot Springs where they have LOTS of hot thermal baths. I don’t know any where you can just camp out and enjoy for free but there are dozens of camp spots that have them. Maybe next winter? ~Kathy

    • Hi Kathy! Since we moved quite a bit north by now (Northern Arizona/Southern Utah), we are still a tad cold. It’s freezing at night. But, we had a few nice days in other parts of Arizona last week. 🙂

      Mark and I didn’t go to Desert Hot Springs, but we have heard from many other campers that California has quite a few of these (hidden) hot springs spots. Maybe next winter… 🙂 Although, I think we have scratched Southern California off the “being warm enough” places for our winters.

  2. We have found some wonderful natural hot springs in our travels around Colorado, Utah, Nevada, California, etc. but I’m not telling! Unless of course you want to search through my blog at http://www.travelswithharvy.com.

    • I agree that you shouldn’t be telling, Leslie. Thanks for referring me to your blog for that. If we are ready for more, I’ll certainly check that out. 🙂 As a matter of fact, I have purposefully not put the name of our week-long desert oasis in this post and kept the location vague.

  3. Ooh, I see you are in Utah. I hope you plan to visit Bryce! If you need transmission (or other) mechanical work, we can refer you to a good mechanic in Panguich.

    • Hi again! We did visit Bryce in the past and it is one of our favorite National Parks. We are only in Kanab for one day, as… you’ll never guess it… we joined the lottery to hike The Wave, and… won! On our first attempt. We didn’t quite expect that. We hope to quickly check out the Best Friends Sanctuary this afternoon and will return to Northern Arizona tomorrow. Luckily, no need for a mechanic right now.

  4. I’ll take the hot and toasty desert any day, Liesbet. I can’t stand to be cold. You and Mark have covered a lot of territory. Keep chasing that warmth, you’ll find it. Be safe!

    • Hi Jill! We had to make a “tough” decision ten days ago: remain in Southern Arizona, where it finally turned warm (in some places, like Tucson, hot even) or see spectacular sights up north near the border with Utah, since we are running out of time before our next house sit. Well… we picked the last and most exciting option, so we are sightseeing and hiking a lot these days, with limited internet. Thanks for the encouragement! I am finding some warmth, as I seem to sweat quite a bit these days. 🙂

  5. Your quest made me smile! I don’t think you would enjoy the weather in Scotland much …

  6. We loved the hotsprings in Iceland. I remember finding it very odd to feel so warm when submerged and freezing cold as soon as we came out of the water. The hot springs of Holtsville looked lush????

    • Hi Gilda! I’d love to try out those hot springs in Iceland and spend a few weeks on the island. Did you visit in winter? Did you see the northern lights?

      • We visited in September and unfortunately the Northern Lights did not show up for us. We plan to o back for a longer tour with our motorhome ????

        • It sounds pretty amazing to visit Iceland with a camper. I’m looking forward to learning more about that, Gilda, as it’s on our “agenda” to do this one summer as well.

  7. Hi, Liesbet – I absolutely LOVE Hot Springs. We have some excellent ones on Vancouver Island — did you have a chance to visit one when you were here? If not, you’ll have to return! 🙂
    BTW – I bet you were expecting me to tease you about your definition of a “cold” winter. 🙂

    • Hi Donna! No, we didn’t visit any hot springs while on Vancouver Island. I actually had no idea there were any. We will have to return, but for much more than just hot springs!

      How did you refrain yourself from not teasing me about our adversity of cold weather? 🙂

  8. Hi Liesbet, Interesting post again with beautiful photos. I am sure you have heard many Winter and snow stories. It think it is always different if you are expecting cold weather. Winters appear unpredictable lately. For us, there is also a difference with a damp, wet cold versus dry snow.

    I was curious about the hot springs photo I saw in your previous post. Now I realize they were “warm” springs and why you had the place to yourselves. I did jot down some notes after communicating with you, Liesbet. We have encountered various hot springs that looked pretty, yet all was not as it appeared.

    I really like your panoramic photo at the end, Liesbet. Thank you for sharing.

    • Hi Erica!

      I would take a snowy winter with a blue sky any day above a wet and grey one. Winters in Belgium were never much fun, unless it snowed. Yes, I did grow up with all the seasons, but somewhere and sometime, warmth became my best friend. 🙂

      And yes again, when expecting cold weather, there is a little bit less complaining in our household, especially when it’s for a temporary visit. Expecting to be warm all winter and then having to shiver every day is another story.

      I’m curious about the hot springs you visited. Indeed, not everything is as promising as it looks. 🙂 If you ever have any questions about the places we visit, please send me a message via the blog! I’m always happy to help or give tips, or share secrets. 🙂

      As far as these “warm” springs went, there was one guy hogging the pool all day long, every day, from 8am until 4pm. Since we didn’t feel like socializing with him, we waited until he drove back to camp past our van, before walking over there ourselves. It was nice to have some privacy, even though it was pretty late in the day.

      • Hi Liesbet, Now you have inspired me to think back on some of the hot springs we have visited over the last few years. Some of them were very unique. I agree, that not everything is as promising as it looks. I noticed that Donna (Retirement Reflections) mentioned there are a few on Vancouver Island. I only recall Hot Springs Cove, outside of Tofino. I will have to investigate. Thank you for saying you would “share secrets” Liesbet. Means a lot to me, especially when you refer to Hot Springs.????

        • I wish we would have known about Hot Springs Cove, as we could have used some warmth during the extremely rainy days we visited Tofino last September. Next time! 🙂

  9. Natural hot springs would be fun – never been in one. And that one was set in a beautiful location.
    I don’t mind the cold – and bring on the snow – but not when it’s a deluge of rain, which is what we got most of this past winter.

    • I hear Iceland is a great place for natural hot springs. And, apparently there are many in California as well. It would be cool to hang out in one, while being surrounded by snow.

      Sorry to read about all the rain this past winter, Alex! I agree snow is much more pleasant, fun, and beautiful! What a weird winter everywhere!

  10. I can’t believe you won the wave. You and Mark are charmed! I am cold right now. Love my friends we are staying with but their house is cold -especially at night. I am trying to figure out the warmest way back through Nevada to Utah where I thought we might try from the wave – this will be our 3rd time, perhaps it will be a charm too!

    I am not much of hot spring person. Water is great until you have to get out of it and it is cold. We went to a hot spring in Nevada once and I just stuck my legs in. I think Greg has too much energy to just sit around and soak.

    Enjoy the wave! Looking forward to the picks!

    • I meant pics! as in pictures – not picks!

      • Not sure where I put those picks…

        Of course, I knew you meant pics. 🙂 I have to grab them off my camera and sort through them on my computer. I must have taken at least 100 photos today. The ones Mark took with the phone look great!

    • Hi Duwan!

      I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you both at The Wave lottery. Not sure how many people/applications were there your previous two times, but the ranger told us that the average right now is 112 people a day. There were about 120 yesterday, with about 40 forms/numbers. Spring break is still happening. But, it’s getting warmer. Tonight, it won’t freeze for the first time and during the day it has been in the sixties in southern Utah and northern Arizona.

      I hear you about feeling cold when getting out of the hot springs, especially when they didn’t make you sweat. There was one evening I really regretted getting in as the wind was whipping through the oasis.

      I hope you get warm again soon. I’m thinking California is not a good winter destination anymore.

  11. I hear you! After two cold winters in Europe (relatively speaking) we are determined to go somewhere hot and sunny in winter this year.

    • Where will you go? May I suggest the Canary Islands? Or Morocco. 🙂 The best place remains the tropics, though.

  12. First of all, thank you for ending our drought. I’m right with you whining about cold… I would never last where it snowed. Things are warming up here nicely here in San Diego, so it’s safe to come back if you want. ???? I am so envious that you are going to experience the wave. Pictures, please!

    • San Diego certainly has its charms, and if I could ever live somewhere… I guess that means we will be back one day. Winter in San Diego isn’t bad at all, but it sounds like spring will be better. 🙂

      Have you been to The Wave, Janis? I had no idea so many of my blog readers actually know what it is. We didn’t until a few weeks ago! Yes, we got VERY lucky to win a permit. The experience was amazing. I might have to jump the chronological order of writing my blogs with this one. 🙂

  13. Next year, just go to Mexico! LOL, don’t forget to visit if you do. 🙂

    • Now, that’s a good plan, Debbie! We actually did jump across the border for four days for Mark’s birthday in March, but it wasn’t south enough to be toasty.

      • I’m in PV again next February! Don’t forget to visit. Bring Zesty! Lol 🙂 x

        • I’m so glad you found your little haven in PV and booked it again! If we are ever there (or in Toronto over the summer, which might be more likely), I’ll get in touch.

  14. I was shocked by how cold it gets at night in northern California, even in the summer time. Here, our winters are freezing, but in the summer, it stays warm at night too.

    Though I was born near the Arctic and moved to a place colder still (what was I thinking?), I’ve never enjoyed winter or cold weather. I’d never call you a wimp for seeking warmth. The cold sucks. When it was too cold during a Mexican holiday to eat outside, I nearly cried.

    • Your summers sound really nice, JH. The more we travel throughout North America, the less we find perfect weather to potentially live. While some of the areas are usually pleasant during the winter, the temps reach and exceed 100F during the summer.

      Based on you enjoying warm weather, I keep wondering how you manage during the Winnipeg winters. Maybe that’s why you are so productive writing! 🙂

  15. Liesbet it is very clear that you guys need a winter in Asia… so that you can be warm all the time and not even THINK about it. After living in the tropics for over ten years, I really do feel the cold more than most when we travel anywhere that is a little chilly. I think I read once that your blood actually gets thinner in tropical climates to deal with the heat and then it stays that way and its hard to stay warm. (And of course once you splurge for the ticket, SEAsia is very inexpensive compared to the US and Europe!)

    So glad you found actualy HOT springs!! I do love those. The first ones I experienced were in New Mexico, lovely clear pools and then later in Ecuador and Thailand. They are especially amazing as your post describes so well, in cold weather.

    Such a beautiful collection of photos here. Particularly love the hot springs pics and the ones at the reservoir.

    Stay warm, not long now….

    Peta

    • Peta, you and I seem to have so much in common, even our thin blood! 🙂 And, our love for Asia. Mark has never been, so it certainly is on our radar. Once we get sick of Zesty. Oops, did I say that out loud?

      Mark and I had the chance of checking out one of the hot springs in New Mexico last year. Such wonderful experience. Especially when the air temperature is chilly. You know, one of the most wonderful things about our upcoming house sit is the modern, clean, and roomy hot tub in the back yard. 🙂 So, you’re right. Not long anymore before we will be perpetually warm. Haha!

  16. For 2019, I should have known that a La Nina weather pattern like we had would mean a colder, wetter winter than normal for the usually warm southwest. You already know what we went through in December/Early January in Arizona and Las Vegas, and I think you got a taste of winter there too! I enjoy hot springs but I get too hot to fast and most of me sits out of the water with just my feet in, but that can be too cold if windy. It was good to learn how warm our trailer was during the snow days. Soon we all will be crying for cold weather when it finally gets warm! Looks like a lot of fun you all had, Liesbet!

    • I didn’t even realize that this is a La Niña year, Terri. It does make sense. We haven’t had one of those in a long time. If we would still have been on our sailboat, we would have known as we’d be even more in tune with nature.

      Hot springs are tricky, as they do get hot quickly. I have to come out often as well, but the wind would be too icy and after a few seconds I want back in. The perfect solution: do a house sit with a perfect hot tub on the back porch. Can’t wait to use it tomorrow! 🙂

  17. I’m opposite to you in this way, Liesbet. I really don’t do well in hot climates. Although temperate climates are nice (Portugal, Hawaii), I am quite happy to live in a place that has all four seasons.

    Jude

  18. Hi Liesbet
    Thank you for single-handedly ending our drought and giving us a most spectacular super bloom. I have not seen one so beautiful since I was a teenager.
    /Your photos of the oasis are beautiful.
    I enjoy traveling through your eyes
    Laura

    • I’m glad you’re able to enjoy the beautiful spring flowers, Laura! If you ever need rain again, just let us know! 🙂 I’m delighted that you’re still on this (virtual) adventure with me.

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