Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Month: November 2025

Our Crazy Mercedes Vario Idea in Chile – A Waste of Time?

Warning: This is a summarized yet long story about what we have really been doing the last four months.

I’m trying to remember when this crazy idea first emerged. At least six months ago, Mark was researching campers in Europe, since we thought/think this will be our new overlanding location. He must have stumbled upon a Mercedes Vario campervan, thought it looked cool and roomy, remembered our German friends Sabine and Michael having one, and focused his research on the 4×4 kind, only to discover that in Europe you need a special driver’s license for this “more truck than van” vehicle, prices wavered around a steep US$100,000, and there are many rules regarding registration, yearly inspections, insurance, and so on.

Driver’s side view of a Vario

It seemed like the Vario idea dead-ended right there. But on June 3rd (I checked my diary), an available 4×4 Vario appeared on the South America Overlanding Facebook page. There were only two problems: it was for sale in Peru with Peruvian plates and it was not converted yet. We inquired at a shop in Uruguay — the only place in South America we knew about — about how much it would cost to build out a van. More research followed and from the moment we realized that a vehicle can only leave Peru if it is owned by a Peruvian resident and that a new build would cost close to US$90,000, the idea was discarded again.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Fast forward to sometime in August when Mark discovered that Chile had imported hundreds of 4WD Vario vans from Europe to use in the mines as passenger transportation vehicles. Another problem arose: these vans had been well used and came with a bus door instead of a passenger door. Replacing that with an RV door would prove almost impossible, let alone dealing with the paperwork, the language, and other crazy logistics.

Soon after, Mark had a revelation. For months, he’d known about a Vario van that had been built out by a Chilean and had been for sale for a couple of years. It was located along the Chilean coast, four hours south of Santiago, but he hadn’t been interested because the camper section was poorly built and unattractive.

His revelation was this: it had a normal door and two seats in the cab, it was already registered as a camper (as opposed to a company vehicle), and becoming the owner of a new vehicle in Chile was straightforward and popular. It’s why many new overlanders buy a car or camper in Santiago to start their South American overland travels. Why not buy this crappy camper, gut it, and rebuild the living space from scratch?

Passenger side view of the Pichilemu Vario camper – with a normal door

By then, we had found out that there was a company in Santiago — Suzie Santiago CTW — that built out vans for a much better rate — but inferior quality — than the expensive shop in Uruguay. More research and communications followed with companies regarding the build and the paperwork. So many months of work and focus went into this pursuit! It’s pretty much all we did during our five weeks in Paraguay. We even drew up the perfect layout. Fun!

Continue reading

A Whirlwind Drive through Argentina 

In the middle of September, Mark, Maya, and I returned to Paraguay without a deadline. We would use this landlocked country as a base during the spring until it turned unbearably hot or until we found a buyer for our camper. Neither had happened when we decided to leave.

Yes, two days each week were miserably hot, but it was still manageable. No buyer had appeared, but we felt Chile would be a better location for any prospective buyer to start their journey on this continent. The other reason we changed countries has to do with a concept that’s been emerging over the last few months. I can’t elaborate on that (yet) since all our attempts to reach this goal have been failing so far. But, if you’ve read our previous expense report “between the lines,” you might have gotten a hint about this idea.

Leaving Paraguay at night

Once we decided to head back to Chile — on the opposite side of the continent — we felt an urge to do this as quickly as possible. Like I mentioned in a previous blog: first, we wanted to eat sushi one more time. Over dinner, skipping an alcoholic drink, we decided to cross the border into Argentina that very same evening. We knew of a good camp spot in Posadas on the other side and hoped for a quick and easy crossing that late in the day. It was the middle of October.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Border officials were friendly, passports were checked, our Paraguayan TIP (temporary import permit) for the truck was returned and an Argentinian one obtained, and we had to back out of a narrow lane, because no height limit was indicated for a low arch up ahead…

Then, just when we thought all was fine and nobody had asked about Maya, we were told to exit the car and our camper was scanned by a massive machine! It was loud and intimidating.

Afterwards, the official stepped out of the giant scanner with our paperwork with only one question: “Do you have a dog?” Our “yes” was answered with only a nod. There’s no hiding from this futuristic machine! Luckily, people had told us earlier that nobody checks dog paperwork at this particular post.

After one short night in Posadas, we hit the road in an attempt to spend as little time as possible in Argentina. There are a few reasons why we don’t like this country, but I won’t get into that now. Our first day was productive, despite the rain and the mix of road conditions with smooth pavement in the morning and uneven patches, dips, grooves, and bumps in the afternoon. We ended up at a familiar camp spot but had to navigate slippery mud to get there.

Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – October 2025 (Paraguay & Argentina)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In October, Mark, Maya, and I covered long distances from Paraguay back to Chile in our home on wheels, Thirsty Bella.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in photo galleries to read their captions.)

When you’re on a tight budget, every unexpected expense disappoints. But when money gets wasted just because you are in the wrong place at the wrong time, it hurts. We had a few of those unfortunate occurrences last month.

Our October car expense — including the fuel cost — matched the amount of September and for the same reason: we drove a lot! As a matter of fact, we basically crossed the South American continent from east to west again, to end up at the Chilean coast 1,500 miles (2,300km) further.

Apart from gasoline ($625), we spent money on tolls, liability insurance for Argentina (one month) and Chile (six months), car soap, and a parts manual.

At $410, our grocery bill was higher than usual, but this is understandable. I mentioned in a previous post that one of the highlights of Paraguay (Hohenau in particular) is the availability of German goodies, like incredible bread, sweets, and cured meats. That’s where the extra food money went!

Some of our unexpected expenses became part of the miscellaneous category: a hefty fine in the Mendoza province ($175), hiring a mechanic ($90) to check out a van we were curious about (a failure), and a paid ad on an international vehicle website to try and sell Bella ($34).

Let me give you some background about the painful fine. In South America, EVERYBODY passes slow trucks — and us — over a solid yellow (or white) line. Everywhere and all the time. Even when it’s not safe. We’ve done it as well, but always in a safe manner.

On this particular occasion, the road was clear, straight, and slightly uphill. We’d already had a crappy day due to the usual challenges trying to get things done in a third-world country, and Mark passed a slow truck driver over the solid yellow line. At the top of the hill… you guessed it. A police car was waiting and an officer stopped us. We felt like they were targeting tourists, but remained friendly. We pleaded, yet couldn’t talk ourselves out of a fine. They did not try to get a bribe. This was all legitimate but unfortunate and hypocritical.

Pulled over once we started enjoying the scenery

The officer in charge wrote us a ticket with a fine to be paid online. We had two options: pay the discounted fee of $175 within the next three business days, or $320 afterward. The cop returned Mark’s driver’s license and after an hour, we went our way again. We were leaving the country the following morning and we did not intend to pay this fine. After a lot of research, we learned that this would likely never hurt us. Foreigners rarely pay fines.

Getting our first ever fine

And then we realized that whoever would next own Bella might visit Mendoza and drive back into Argentina. And then our conscience started acting up. We didn’t want anyone else potentially getting in trouble for our misfortune, disappointment, and stubbornness. So, we paid up before the rate increased. Sigh.

We decided to pay our steep fine.

We usually don’t stay in pay campgrounds, but we needed a break from driving and wanted to sit still for a while, so the $160 we paid for camping was planned. We mostly enjoyed our three weeks at the Manantial Campground in Paraguay and would have stayed longer if it wasn’t for the heat, bugs, and more pressing matters calling us back to Chile.

Home for three weeks at Camping Manantial – We did move twice a week!

The rest of the month, we camped for free.

Mark and I splurged on dinners out in October because we were in affordable and multi-cultural Paraguay and had the company of friends. For the first sushi round in Encarnación, Larry chipped in more than his fair share, our first pizza meal was a treat from Jon and Heather, and Larry took Mark out once as well. Since I had a migraine that evening, they brought me back a take-out plate.

We returned for Japanese and Italian cuisines on our own dime and I had a $3 Grido ice cream in Argentina. That had been a long while.

Most of our dinners were cooked at home, as always.

And our friends Abigail and Richie spoiled us on our one-night stopover at their property in Mendoza with a fantastic and extensive dinner!

Our alcohol budget hovered around $70 as usual, which isn’t bad considering we spent a couple of weeks with friends. But I was sick a bunch, so skipped out on the wine often.

We don’t usually spend money on household supplies, but we wanted a bread knife to cut all those fabulous German breads, bought bungee cords and a new frying pan, and really needed new camping chairs after being without for weeks. Our old $6 ones from Peru finally ripped enough that Mark fell through, and they became unusable.

A painful $40 went to dog paperwork. Painful for two reasons: these permits are superfluous, and the vet made an expensive mistake. Maya always has all her vaccinations and papers in order, but border crossings in Latin America require verification of our paperwork, first by an accredited veterinarian and again by the agriculture department. With new permits and costs involved.

A new health certificate is created first by the vet and then copied over by Senasa. In Mendoza, the vet left two fields blank. This led to us going to Senasa two days in a row to apply, returning to the vet (all on foot, 45 minutes apart), and needing the international permit quicker, resulting in higher fees. FYI: We have gone through this process about six times, just in Argentina.

We treated our friends to drinks at a beach bar and at the pizzeria-brewery, but most of the time we hung out for happy hours at the campground.

The utilities category comprises our monthly Starlink internet subscription ($30 — the other half is paid by our business) and only $3 for propane. We wished this number was higher since we aspired to top up our tank in Argentina before crossing the border into Chile, where propane fills are more challenging. Unfortunately, the company only managed to add 1 kg to our tank after an hour of trying, so we gave up and moved on. Filling up with water was easy and free.

We bought more caulk, masking tape, glue, and scrap wood for leveling boards for the camper, and champagne for Jon’s birthday. We dropped two loads of laundry off at someone’s home in Hohenau, and the friendly lady returned our clothes clean and a tad too fragrant. The price was right at only $9. We love Paraguay!

And the last expense went to a decongestant for me after suffering from sinus issues for ten days. This most recent illness took a long time to resolve.

It wasn’t a great month financially, as we almost crossed the $2,000 threshold. Since our future is up in the air right now and we have no plans, who knows what November and December will bring for the wallet…

October 2025 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $625; tolls: $26; maint.: $23; ins.: $22):

Groceries:

Miscellaneous:

Camping:

Dining out:

Alcohol:

Household supplies:

Dog:

Drinking out:

Utilities (Internet: $29; propane: $3):

Camper:

Gifts:

Laundry:

Medical:

 

TOTAL:

 

$696

$410

$296

$161

$151

$71

$52

$40

$34

$32

$20

$13

$9

$8

———

$ 1,993

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: A whirlwind drive through Argentina!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

© 2026 Roaming About

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑