After my parents met Mark, Maya, and me in Quebec City and explored a chunk of Maine with us in Zesty, we all settled in the home of my in-laws in Newburyport, Massachusetts for the last week of their US vacation. Mark and I happily offered up “our” room above the garage and moved into another guest room of what we fondly call “our home base”. It has, in fact, been both Mark’s and my official residency for over a decade. The area is full of treasures.
My favorite photo op in Rockport
1. Newburyport
I was delighted to have my parents visit us in my “second home”. I’ve grown fond of this seaside town over the years and couldn’t wait to finally show them why. Having visitors around turns us into tourists and helps us appreciate the beautiful surroundings we have grown accustomed to.
Newburyport has a wonderful waterfront area and boardwalk along the Merrimack River, two rail trails to walk and bike on, an attractive downtown, outdoor art displays, and many historic buildings. It’s a joy to take Maya for long walks. There are museums, heaps of restaurants and bars, and the necessary antique shops, typical for North Shore villages.
These Newburyport photos are assembled from my mom’s as well as my camera. Different perspectives!
(Hover over the photos to read the captions and click to enlarge.)
2. Plum Island
Plum Island is a special place. Or, at least, it used to be. Over the years, the funky beach cottages have been replaced by massive villas, sometimes falling into the ocean as erosion occurs due to nasty Nor’easters. My brother-in-law and his family had a house there, a block from the beach. We LOVED visiting – free parking in the driveway to attend precious family gatherings and walk the miles of pristine beaches. But they sold their house this summer, so when Mark, Maya, and I visited with my parents, we had to be creative when it came to parking.
In case you wonder why I posted a photo of an ordinary school bus, they are typical for the United States and my mom was enthralled by them, as well as the little USPS mail trucks. I actually bought mini-versions of those vehicles for my nephew’s birthday last year.
Pristine beach in the Wildlife Refuge
The biggest draw to Plum Island, less than ten minutes from Newburyport, is the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge. No dogs are allowed (not even in the car), so this was an afternoon of fun walks and viewpoints with just my parents. Our national park pass allowed “free” entry. Otherwise it’s $5 per car. The boardwalks, the beaches, the marshes, the bird life; it was all a nice change from visiting seaside villages. Did I ever mention that my family adores nature and the beauty and peace that come with it?
3. Rockport
One of the quintessential North Shore towns and picture-perfect natural harbors is Rockport. It was biting cold when we visited, so we kept a brisk pace about us and didn’t spend too much time here. The biggest attraction is Motif #1, a replica of a former fishing shack along the bay. This is the most painted building in the world. By now, it must be one of the most photographed ones as well, based on my own track record. It graces many of my digital photos from this trip and a previous one!
4. Gloucester
Gloucester is also located on Cape Ann, a mere ten minute-drive from Rockport, which makes it easy to combine both coastal towns in one day trip. With its nearly 400-year history, it’s the oldest fishing port in the US. The reality TV series “Wicked Tuna” and the Hollywood blockbuster “The Perfect Storm” are filmed here. Despite all that, Gloucester has kept its authenticity and doesn’t appear touristy.
Things to do here are a walk on beautiful Good Harbor Beach or along the waterfront to check out the Fisherman’s Memorial. Mark and I did our very first house sit here in 2015, after we sold our sailboat Irie in Tahiti. We hadn’t been back since and explored a bit more with my mom than exactly four years ago.
Fisherman’s Memorial
We made the Dog Bar breakwater walk from the inaccessible historic Eastern Point lighthouse to another light at the end of the pier. This one was less challenging than the one we attempted in Rockland, Maine, earlier that month. No water flooding the stones!
Another surprise was the Paper House. Entrance (honor system) is $2 per person and we were the only visitors. It’s a quick stop, but a quirky one. It – literally – is a house made from newspaper, inside and out. Mechanical Engineer Mr. Elis F. Stenman built the house in 1922, so it’s almost 100 years old. The newspaper was meant to be good insulation. Eventually, not only the house was made of paper, but the furniture as well, including some intricate and gorgeous pieces. The rolled-up newspaper was then varnished to withstand the ages. I’d say a job well done!
5. Boston – Freedom Trail
Boston is a 45-minute car ride south of Newburyport, without traffic, which NEVER happens. We only go to Massachusetts’s capital for doctors’ visits (Mark) or to meet friends and hate driving into the city, which usually takes between 1.5 and 2 hours, depending on the time of the day. So, it was really nice to visit the center of this “big town with a small-town feeling” with my parents, as visitors, and by train. During the weekend, a train ticket – valid for the entire weekend, anywhere in Massachusetts – only costs $10 a person. Hard to pass up, especially when my mom and dad treated. 😊 Side note: dogs are allowed on these Commuter Trains, but Mark opted to stay home with Maya.
Freedom Trail – follow the red bricks!
For this daytrip, the three of us decided to follow the Freedom Trail, which gave my parents a good overall feel for the city. Upon emerging from the metro station, a visitor center and the start of the “brick trail” awaited us. You can pick up a brochure here for a few dollars or download the pdf version of this self-guided tour at home for free.
The Freedom Trail is a 2.5-mile-long (4km) path through downtown Boston, that passes by 16 locations significant to the history of the United States. Marked largely with brick, it winds between Boston Common all the way to the Bunker Hill Monument in Charlestown. Stops along the trail include simple explanatory ground markers, graveyards, notable churches and buildings, and a historic naval frigate. While most of the sites are free or suggest donations, the Old South Meeting House, the Old State House, and the Paul Revere House charge admission. Thank you, Wikipedia.
We stuck to the outside attractions, gazing at statues and buildings, reading signs, and strolling through graveyards, had lunch at buzzing Quincy Market, and finished at the USS Constitution, which – to our surprise – is a free National Historical Site. It’s the oldest commissioned ship in the United States Navy. Naval officers and crew still serve aboard her. On this sunny October day, it was incredibly busy everywhere!
Of course, Boston has much more to offer, but if you’re into US history and have a limited amount of time, the Freedom Trail is the perfect place to start.
Final Note
Salem would have been another interesting destination, but we didn’t have time left to hit it up. My parents left us on October 7th, after a successful 2.5-week visit, packed with activities and family time. Mark and I remained in Newburyport for another three weeks, to work on our van and at our computers, spend time with the family, and take care of one other event…
If you only had one day to visit any of these destinations, which one(s) would you pick?
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November 21, 2019 at 13:50
Lots of great stuff to do in that area, for sure. If you haven’t been to the Peabody-Essex Museum, you should put that on your list for next time. Worth at least a full afternoon if not all day, it is that interesting.
November 22, 2019 at 14:32
Hi Leslie! Thank you for the tip about the Peabody-Essex museum. A few people have recommended it to us, so we will have to check it out in the future. We did walk by it in Salem, MA, which we still need to do justice as a whole. We have friends who live in Downtown Salem (so, easy parking for us) and it’s where I had my oath ceremony, so we have strings attached. Yet, we have not been a tourist in town yet. 🙂
November 21, 2019 at 14:33
One day isn’t fair. I really want to see the newspaper house – I love weird creative stuff like that. And then there is the Freedom Trail. Anything with trail in the name is intriguing. Coast cities have such unique character – Rockport and Gloucester would be on my one day list too.
What a great visit with your folks. It is always interesting to see what other people are drawn too. It is nice that you included your mom’s pictures too!
November 22, 2019 at 14:35
OK, Duwan, you’ve convinced me. You get three days to do it all. 🙂 You will love the Paper House and the Freedom Trail, as you are both into history a bit.
My mom took photos of places and houses in Newburyport; places we usually just walk by and didn’t think much of. Yet, I do like these special buildings and parks and I have taken photos of them in the past. It was easier to use her photos, though. 🙂
November 21, 2019 at 15:32
I love the beaches and coastal places Liesbet and Boston looks like a great city to spend some time too. Personally, we’d be drawn to the most dog-friendly places where we can all walk together xxx
November 22, 2019 at 14:37
I hear you, Xenia. Nature would always be our number one option, too, especially if it’s dog-friendly places or forests. There is a place called Dog Town near Gloucester, which you would love. We visited it four years ago with the dog we were pet sitting at the time. She (Zyla) is actually still on one of my blog banners. Throughout the forest are big rocks with words, like “kindness”, scattered about. It’s a place of peace, nature, and reflection.
November 21, 2019 at 15:42
Rockport looks really quaint.
I’ll take a cookie now!
November 22, 2019 at 14:38
If only we’d have an oven in our camper, Alex! We’d invite you over for some freshly baked cookies. I have some extra Belgian chocolate chips stored away.
November 21, 2019 at 17:17
I’m so happy you had a nice visit with your parents. You certainly showed them a good time. I love the photo of Mark…he likes those cookies! 🙂 I can’t pick one place! I love anywhere with water and lighthouses. Thanks for sharing with us, Liesbet.
November 22, 2019 at 14:41
Yep, Jill! More lighthouses, as promised. 🙂
Yes, Mark loves those cookies. It’s actually the only time he devours this much sugar. At least, he knows how much and what’s in the cookies. Normally, he never eats dessert, but when there’s a fresh batch of cookies (and they are sizable ones), he eats two a day. Which means they go fast!
November 21, 2019 at 17:56
Hi, Liesbet – Your photography in this post is absolutely stunning. And those Belgian Chocolate Chip Cookis? Please come back and make them for me!! 😀
November 22, 2019 at 14:42
Deal, Donna! If we ever visit you again, we will happily use your oven (and washing machine, of course) to make a batch of fresh cookies (the oven, not the washing machine). And, you know we keep our promise as in the pizza case. 🙂
November 21, 2019 at 18:07
Thanks for such a wonderful tour of the area. My trips to Boston were always brief and explorations were usually limited to Quincy Market. One day I’d like to return and take in some of these sights that you shared.
November 22, 2019 at 14:44
Great idea, Ingrid. You should. My parents weren’t too impressed with Boston, but then again, they’re not Americans and the history doesn’t mean as much to them. Plus, historic buildings in New England are not quite like the medieval historic building in Europe, but I think Boston is a very enjoyable city. I feel like I should give it more time and visit more areas in depth in the future as well. Now that I know we cam take the train (with Maya) for $10 a person, I’ll convince mark to go back one summer for a day on the town!
November 21, 2019 at 18:29
That looks like so much fun! I love the newspaper house… maybe my mechanical engineer husband will make one for me! We visited Boston many years ago… so much history. I’m so happy that you were able to spend so much quality time with your parents.
November 22, 2019 at 14:47
Hi Janis! Yes, get Paul on that, will you. I’m sure he (and you) would love him getting into an exciting, hands-on project, in the garage!? My parents’ visit was definitely one with a lot of quality time, which I’m happy about, because in the past they didn’t get many good memories of their US visits.
November 21, 2019 at 20:54
I’d choose a coastal village for my one day, I think (not fair of me – I’m not choosing which one!) mainly because I have seen a lot of Boston. It’s still looking likely that our daughter will move back there next summer, so maybe I’ll take a spin up north and recreate some of your fun! I’m glad you had such a nice time with your parents.
November 22, 2019 at 18:11
I’d say you HAVE to come visit Newburyport and surroundings, Lexie, whenever your daughter moves to Boston and you “swing by” for a visit in the summer. Because you and I HAVE to meet! And, I’m more likely to be in the Boston area over the summer than any other time of the year. 🙂 Keep me posted!
November 22, 2019 at 02:30
I like how adaptable you are with your living spaces. Of course, that’s quite an understatement since your lifestyle totally requires flexibility.
Favorite photos? You and Mark eating cookies + you, Maya, and the twins, so sweet
I’d favor visiting any destination that included hiking, that’s for sure.
Happy Thanksgiving to one and all!
November 22, 2019 at 18:16
Hi Marian!
I actually had no idea you enjoy hiking. I do remember we have “love of being in nature” in common as well.
Yeah… we have to be flexible on so many fronts. We’ve often “lent” our room above the garage to other family members over the summers, feeling that they have a better use for it. Yet, we still see it as “our room”, since it has been the only constant in Mark and my life for the last 15 years. 🙂
Know that there are times we “dream” about a place for ourselves somewhere, which we could call home. At least temporarily… The future will tell what we will be up to next.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours as well, my friend. Ours will not be much fun – it is also my birthday, by the way – because Mark has a ten-hour night shift!
November 22, 2019 at 10:09
How lucky you are, that you got to share all this with both sets of parents, it must be great to be part of a big extended family. It all looks wonderful, but my choice would be Plum Island – all that space!
November 22, 2019 at 18:20
The wildlife refuge on Plum Island is special. There is a lot of space on the beach and in the marshes. Especially for an east coast destination.
Yes, I’m very fortunate both my parents are alive, healthy, and able to fly over for a visit. Especially since we had a recent scare – my dad had blood clots in his lunges from the long flight back to Belgium, after visiting us. It happened on his birthday of all days… Quite the scare to find out he was at the ER when I called for his special day.
November 23, 2019 at 11:54
Thoroughly enjoyed seeing your photographs of places near my heart…and my home. We live about 45 minutes from Newburyport (with no traffic which, as you point out, is rare). But on a summer weekend day we drive to Newburyport for the morning, or Rockport or (another suggestion for you) Marblehead. But our most fun/routine Sundays in the summer is to drive into Boston by 8 a.m. – with no traffic a 35 minute drive (otherwise at times an hour!) and walk the city for two to three hours. Such a spectacular way to view this amazing and historic place. And lots of dogs and their loved one walk in Boston, particularly along the Charles River. 🙂
November 26, 2019 at 11:51
Your Sunday morning strolls along the Charles River sound peaceful and special, Pam. Maybe we can meet somewhere in Boston one of these summers and go for a walk together? I’ve actually never done that, but we have driven by many many times on the way into town and the hospital area via digested Starrow Drive. Thanks for the tip about Marblehead. I have never been there. I’ll have to ask Mark about it when he gets up.
November 26, 2019 at 14:19
Great idea! Maybe next summer? Would love that. xo
November 28, 2019 at 18:45
🙂
November 24, 2019 at 17:28
Great photos!
I would love to get back to Boston someday. I enjoyed my visit there.
November 26, 2019 at 11:52
Do not postpone what you can do now! 🙂 I hope you get to revisit Boston as it’s a very walkable city that has much to offer and is yet not too overwhelming, like other major east coast cities.
November 24, 2019 at 23:59
What beautiful places! I’d be hard-pressed to choose only one of them to visit; but I’d love to see the paper house. So cool! 🙂
November 26, 2019 at 11:54
You being a quirky, creative, and alternative being, I’d highly recommend the Paper House! Why am I not surprised you picked that one? And, while you’re there, you might as well combine it with something else in the area. 🙂
November 25, 2019 at 12:14
The seaside villages all look nice, Liesbet, and I’m glad you had a lovely time there with your folks. I’d have to choose Boston because it’s a city I only know by reputation. 🙂 🙂
November 26, 2019 at 11:56
You’d enjoy Boston, Jo, as it is very walkable and its size fits perfectly for a three-day visit. Lots of water to gaze at or be on as well. 🙂
November 25, 2019 at 20:44
Spectacular mini tour, thanks Liesbet, looks just beautiful. So nice to be not far from the water. Lol, loved the photo of Maya’s destroyed toy, 🙂
November 26, 2019 at 11:58
Yep, we love to be so close to the water there. That dog, I tell ya! She gets so much love and attention with us/me around all the time. It’s about time we get her another stuffed toy, though, as on rainy days the camper is small and boring for her.
November 26, 2019 at 08:00
Liesbet, you have seen a great deal of beauty in many places on our planet, yet it is always fun being a tourist in your home town. The photos depict an area filled with life. You bring up a great word, “authenticity.” Possibly why these coastal towns are interesting and picturesque. I get the impression the locals take pride and care for their community.
It is obvious how your entire family and extended family appreciates nature. Likely the values passed on to you and Mark.
Very interesting about Motif #1. Possibly more intriguing because of where it is located and the surrounding views?
Regarding your question, Liesbet, I would not allocate only one day in these areas. I would definitely spend longer with the expectation to return.
A exceptionally interesting post and beautiful photos! It was an even more special visit, because it was with your parents.🙂
November 26, 2019 at 12:01
Hi Erica! Thank you for your thoughtful and kind comment. I believe you live close to the water as well, so you can appreciate the beauty and “authenticity” it brings. 🙂 There is definitely a sense of community and taking care of the place in these New England fishing towns. So much history there that is hard to grasp for a tourist/immigrant like me. By the way, take your time whenever you visit.
November 30, 2019 at 15:59
Cracked up at your mother’s love for school buses. We have to meet up in this neck of the USA when I return home. I’ve done the freedom trail but have yet to explore these charming towns. Love New England! Your pictures are making me look forward to me return there.
November 30, 2019 at 21:39
My mother actually took photos of the little mail truck as well. You know, there were so many things that stood out to me the first time I visited and traveled in the US that I take for granted now. I even wrote heaps of it down in a thick notebook, back in the day, thinking I’d write a book about that! Haha, the ideas and the amount of topics that I have collected and scribbled about over the years is infinite! 🙂
I’m so glad to read that you will be returning to New England soon, Lisa! Temporarily, anyway. And, yes, to meeting up in that area. We will be back! Often!
December 28, 2019 at 01:39
I was fascinated by the paper furniture in the paper house. I also liked the photo of you with Maya and your nieces.
Jude
December 28, 2019 at 20:19
The paper house was quirky and not something we would usually stop at and pay for, but having my mom with us turned us into tourists as well and that was a nice change. Much more fun as well! 🙂