In November (and part of December) 2022, Mark, Maya, and I found ourselves in Cartagena, Colombia, for only one reason: pick up our truck camper from the port and start our South American adventure. I’ve already written extensively about how to ship a vehicle between the two continents here and about what went wrong in our story here. Because of all the delays and mistakes made (by our UK agent IVSS), we ended up spending five weeks instead of one in this well-known Colombian City.
(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)
Old Town Cartagena or the “walled city” is a World Heritage Site that draws lots of visitors – nationally and internationally – and that is certainly worth a stop. For a couple of days. It’s picturesque, colorful, and historic, yet touristy, pricier than elsewhere in the country, busy, loud, and very hot and humid. Add to this that Mark and I already visited this city in 2011 by sailboat (check out my short posts about that here (mainly text) and here (mainly photos) and you will understand playing tourists in Cartagena was not high on the agenda.
Our five weeks here were spread over five different areas and Airbnb apartments in this massive city.
1. Manga
Our first week in Cartagena was booked ahead of time. We picked the Manga area, because the cost for accommodation, while relatively steep for Colombia, was much lower here than in the walled city, which was located within walking distance from our Airbnb rental. Price: US$43/night.
Notes: All prices mentioned include taxes and fees; cleaning fees are much lower than in the US; there is no hot water anywhere, so cold showers were the norm in our accommodation choices; we didn’t meet one English-speaking Colombian during our five weeks in Cartagena.
The apartment was sparse but adequate, with a little patio. Unfortunately, we never sat outside, because the traffic noise was too loud (honk, honk, honk) and it rained a big chunk of the time. The nicest – unexpected – feature of this location was the park across the street and a short riverfront path a block from us. This worked to let Maya out in the early morning and late afternoon.
We had planned some old town strolling and relaxing in the nearby parks during this first week, to decompress from months of preparation for this new adventure, but both Mark and I became sick for over a week. Did we finally contract Covid on the plane ride? We wore surgical masks, but in the frenzy of packing, organizing, and planning for this big move, we had forgotten to grab our “good” masks.
Early on, the three of us managed to venture into old town briefly on Maya’s afternoon walk, but forgot to bring her food. So, we returned home with the intention of visiting the following day, which is when I got ill. On two different occasions, feeling a little bit better, Mark and I explored the area on our own.
I preferred the more relaxed Getsemani neighborhood – with its colorful homes and street art – to the hectic walled city. And, despite the incessant heat and humidity, I did enjoy watching the monkeys and sloths in Parque Centenario right outside the walls.
2. El Refugio
During that first week, learning our camper wouldn’t ship for another week (or more), we booked two extra accommodations in Cartagena, mainly based on price. If we had to stay in the city longer than expected, we needed to do so as cheaply as possible. The apartment next to El Refugio came highly recommended in the reviews, but was in an awkward location. Price: $24/night.
This Airbnb rental was more spacious and with the big portable fan we managed to spread the cold air from the bedroom air conditioners through the hallway into the living room. Again, we improvised a dog bed for Maya, using a cushion from the couch covered with a sarong. There was a wash basin to do laundry; handy as we only brought clothes for one week. The fridge was big and the kitchen adequate.
Biggest negatives of this second-floor apartment along a busy thoroughfare: the steps were steep, narrow, and dangerous (especially for Maya), the traffic noise underneath the windows was extremely loud and disturbing, and there was literally nowhere to walk our dog. Heaps of trash, some broken sidewalks, aggressively barking dogs, and zero greenery made outings unpleasant.
But we were starting to feel better and managed to finally visit our friend Nathalie back in Manga. We met her in the Caribbean while sailing, over a decade ago. She and her boyfriend welcomed us in their home and she cooked a fabulous lunch.
The easiest way to get around Cartagena is by taxi. Trips cost an average of 10,000 pesos (US$2). We used the app InDrive (website InDriver), where you can set the price, request rides, and follow the route.
3. Area Commercial
I’m not sure how this neighborhood is called, but our third Airbnb was located just above the name “Cartagena” on Google Maps. This place, purely picked for its price, was the furthest away of any tourist activity. And that was one of the most surprising, intriguing, and rewarding things of our ten-day stay here! Price: US$12/night. The owner was just starting out renting this new apartment above her home.
The two-room space was small and spartan. As a matter of fact, the main feature was missing. Despite being advertised (and one of our requirements), there was no AC when we arrived! Especially for Maya, cool air is important. And for us, too, since we spent most days inside, waiting, incessantly checking boat schedules, and stressing. Mark and I frantically searched the Airbnb website again for an alternative and didn’t unpack.
That’s when the friendliness of the Colombians first became evident to us. Owner Wendy did everything in her power to order, buy, and get a split unit AC installed by 10pm that first evening. Oh, and the bathroom door had been locked from the inside and the key was lost, so a locksmith came and three hours after arriving, we could access the toilet! After this initial set-back, our stay was wonderful.
We discovered a small park close by for Maya’s twice-daily walks and the property had an overgrown back yard for a quick tinkle. The area itself was nothing special, and the main road half a block away was extremely busy and crazy, but we enjoyed our stay here. My Spanish was improving, cheap eateries abound, the neighbors adopted us, and we found a decent bakery; very rare in Colombia!
One of the first days, Mark and I walked to a grocery store, northbound, and were followed by a guy. The further we progressed, the louder he yelled. It took a while before we realized he was actually calling to us. When we finally stopped and listened to what he had to say, he warned us not to go any further as we were approaching a dangerous area of the city. He recommended we’d walk to a supermarket in the other direction instead. ¡Gracias!
By the time my birthday came around, the end of November, our truck had still not arrived. It had barely been loaded in Texas. We made the best of it, meeting fellow travelers and camper “waiters” in old town and had a lovely evening in Getsemani. Sheri and Jeff also came for a visit to our neck of the woods from their plush quarters in Boca Grande – a grueling ride by taxi.
We were sad to leave this particular Airbnb, but Wendy had it booked out after December 3rd. We needed to move on.
4. Los Caracoles
We booked four days in this Airbnb with the intention to extend. While the second-floor apartment and the location along a narrow car-free alley were promising, we did not stay longer. The dogs in the neighborhood were quite aggressive when we walked by with Maya (like in El Refugio), one of the neighbors played loud music, and the shower pan leaked all over the bathroom floor while the owner refused to fix the problem. Price: US$17/night.
Positives about this apartment, other than the price: two grocery stores within walking distance, a huge iguana lived along our walking route, a washing machine, and a small balcony to hang out on.
By the first week of December, daily fireworks and firecrackers got Maya on a distressed and frantic path, shaking, hiding, and hyperventilating. And this was only the beginning!
5. Boca Grande
Saving the best for last!
After four weeks of “existing” in basic accommodations, Mark and I decided to splurge. We had to find a more comfortable apartment in a breathable area with a place to walk Maya, little traffic, and – ideally – the absence of booms and bottle rockets. Boca Grande happened to be this place. Coincidentally, our third-floor apartment was located only a couple of blocks from our friends’ rental. Price: US$42/night.
Getting there from Los Caracoles was tricky: our taxi got a flat tire about a mile from our destination. Usually, we’d walk a short distance like that, but with our four bags of luggage, one bag of groceries, and one hot dog, braving the muggy climate appeared too challenging. We waited around for half an hour – the driver requested a friend to come with an air compressor, which never happened – before arranging another cab ride.
This apartment had it all, including a dish towel, sponge, chef’s knife, enough towels and bed covers, curtains in front of most windows, and even a washing machine. Still no scissors, though. Cutting Colombian packaging and milk bags still required a serrated knife.
The three of us developed a healthy routine, taking Maya for a long walk each day at 6am and 4pm, and our minds quietened once we knew Thirsty Bella was on its way to Colombia. We did have to remain flexible with our plans and bookings. Anything could still happen…
We loved the quiet park across the street, the “fancy” grocery stores blocks away (fresh European-style baguettes, anyone?), following the wide boardwalk, strolling a peaceful beach, and hanging out with our friends every other day or so. It was close to bliss (or do I dare say “vacation”) and the perfect conclusion to our five weeks in famous, yet very diverse and noisy, Cartagena!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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