In November (and part of December) 2022, Mark, Maya, and I found ourselves in Cartagena, Colombia, for only one reason: pick up our truck camper from the port and start our South American adventure. I’ve already written extensively about how to ship a vehicle between the two continents here and about what went wrong in our story here. Because of all the delays and mistakes made (by our UK agent IVSS), we ended up spending five weeks instead of one in this well-known Colombian City.
(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)
Old Town Cartagena or the “walled city” is a World Heritage Site that draws lots of visitors – nationally and internationally – and that is certainly worth a stop. For a couple of days. It’s picturesque, colorful, and historic, yet touristy, pricier than elsewhere in the country, busy, loud, and very hot and humid. Add to this that Mark and I already visited this city in 2011 by sailboat (check out my short posts about that here (mainly text) and here (mainly photos) and you will understand playing tourists in Cartagena was not high on the agenda.
Our five weeks here were spread over five different areas and Airbnb apartments in this massive city.
1. Manga
Our first week in Cartagena was booked ahead of time. We picked the Manga area, because the cost for accommodation, while relatively steep for Colombia, was much lower here than in the walled city, which was located within walking distance from our Airbnb rental. Price: US$43/night.
Notes: All prices mentioned include taxes and fees; cleaning fees are much lower than in the US; there is no hot water anywhere, so cold showers were the norm in our accommodation choices; we didn’t meet one English-speaking Colombian during our five weeks in Cartagena.
The apartment was sparse but adequate, with a little patio. Unfortunately, we never sat outside, because the traffic noise was too loud (honk, honk, honk) and it rained a big chunk of the time. The nicest – unexpected – feature of this location was the park across the street and a short riverfront path a block from us. This worked to let Maya out in the early morning and late afternoon.
We had planned some old town strolling and relaxing in the nearby parks during this first week, to decompress from months of preparation for this new adventure, but both Mark and I became sick for over a week. Did we finally contract Covid on the plane ride? We wore surgical masks, but in the frenzy of packing, organizing, and planning for this big move, we had forgotten to grab our “good” masks.
Early on, the three of us managed to venture into old town briefly on Maya’s afternoon walk, but forgot to bring her food. So, we returned home with the intention of visiting the following day, which is when I got ill. On two different occasions, feeling a little bit better, Mark and I explored the area on our own.
I preferred the more relaxed Getsemani neighborhood – with its colorful homes and street art – to the hectic walled city. And, despite the incessant heat and humidity, I did enjoy watching the monkeys and sloths in Parque Centenario right outside the walls.
2. El Refugio
During that first week, learning our camper wouldn’t ship for another week (or more), we booked two extra accommodations in Cartagena, mainly based on price. If we had to stay in the city longer than expected, we needed to do so as cheaply as possible. The apartment next to El Refugio came highly recommended in the reviews, but was in an awkward location. Price: $24/night.
This Airbnb rental was more spacious and with the big portable fan we managed to spread the cold air from the bedroom air conditioners through the hallway into the living room. Again, we improvised a dog bed for Maya, using a cushion from the couch covered with a sarong. There was a wash basin to do laundry; handy as we only brought clothes for one week. The fridge was big and the kitchen adequate.
Biggest negatives of this second-floor apartment along a busy thoroughfare: the steps were steep, narrow, and dangerous (especially for Maya), the traffic noise underneath the windows was extremely loud and disturbing, and there was literally nowhere to walk our dog. Heaps of trash, some broken sidewalks, aggressively barking dogs, and zero greenery made outings unpleasant.
But we were starting to feel better and managed to finally visit our friend Nathalie back in Manga. We met her in the Caribbean while sailing, over a decade ago. She and her boyfriend welcomed us in their home and she cooked a fabulous lunch.
The easiest way to get around Cartagena is by taxi. Trips cost an average of 10,000 pesos (US$2). We used the app InDrive (website InDriver), where you can set the price, request rides, and follow the route.
3. Area Commercial
I’m not sure how this neighborhood is called, but our third Airbnb was located just above the name “Cartagena” on Google Maps. This place, purely picked for its price, was the furthest away of any tourist activity. And that was one of the most surprising, intriguing, and rewarding things of our ten-day stay here! Price: US$12/night. The owner was just starting out renting this new apartment above her home.
Living and kitchen area – waiting to be unpacked
The two-room space was small and spartan. As a matter of fact, the main feature was missing. Despite being advertised (and one of our requirements), there was no AC when we arrived! Especially for Maya, cool air is important. And for us, too, since we spent most days inside, waiting, incessantly checking boat schedules, and stressing. Mark and I frantically searched the Airbnb website again for an alternative and didn’t unpack.
That’s when the friendliness of the Colombians first became evident to us. Owner Wendy did everything in her power to order, buy, and get a split unit AC installed by 10pm that first evening. Oh, and the bathroom door had been locked from the inside and the key was lost, so a locksmith came and three hours after arriving, we could access the toilet! After this initial set-back, our stay was wonderful.
We discovered a small park close by for Maya’s twice-daily walks and the property had an overgrown back yard for a quick tinkle. The area itself was nothing special, and the main road half a block away was extremely busy and crazy, but we enjoyed our stay here. My Spanish was improving, cheap eateries abound, the neighbors adopted us, and we found a decent bakery; very rare in Colombia!
One of the first days, Mark and I walked to a grocery store, northbound, and were followed by a guy. The further we progressed, the louder he yelled. It took a while before we realized he was actually calling to us. When we finally stopped and listened to what he had to say, he warned us not to go any further as we were approaching a dangerous area of the city. He recommended we’d walk to a supermarket in the other direction instead. ¡Gracias!
By the time my birthday came around, the end of November, our truck had still not arrived. It had barely been loaded in Texas. We made the best of it, meeting fellow travelers and camper “waiters” in old town and had a lovely evening in Getsemani. Sheri and Jeff also came for a visit to our neck of the woods from their plush quarters in Boca Grande – a grueling ride by taxi.
We were sad to leave this particular Airbnb, but Wendy had it booked out after December 3rd. We needed to move on.
4. Los Caracoles
We booked four days in this Airbnb with the intention to extend. While the second-floor apartment and the location along a narrow car-free alley were promising, we did not stay longer. The dogs in the neighborhood were quite aggressive when we walked by with Maya (like in El Refugio), one of the neighbors played loud music, and the shower pan leaked all over the bathroom floor while the owner refused to fix the problem. Price: US$17/night.
Positives about this apartment, other than the price: two grocery stores within walking distance, a huge iguana lived along our walking route, a washing machine, and a small balcony to hang out on.
By the first week of December, daily fireworks and firecrackers got Maya on a distressed and frantic path, shaking, hiding, and hyperventilating. And this was only the beginning!
5. Boca Grande
Saving the best for last!
After four weeks of “existing” in basic accommodations, Mark and I decided to splurge. We had to find a more comfortable apartment in a breathable area with a place to walk Maya, little traffic, and – ideally – the absence of booms and bottle rockets. Boca Grande happened to be this place. Coincidentally, our third-floor apartment was located only a couple of blocks from our friends’ rental. Price: US$42/night.
Getting there from Los Caracoles was tricky: our taxi got a flat tire about a mile from our destination. Usually, we’d walk a short distance like that, but with our four bags of luggage, one bag of groceries, and one hot dog, braving the muggy climate appeared too challenging. We waited around for half an hour – the driver requested a friend to come with an air compressor, which never happened – before arranging another cab ride.
This apartment had it all, including a dish towel, sponge, chef’s knife, enough towels and bed covers, curtains in front of most windows, and even a washing machine. Still no scissors, though. Cutting Colombian packaging and milk bags still required a serrated knife.
The three of us developed a healthy routine, taking Maya for a long walk each day at 6am and 4pm, and our minds quietened once we knew Thirsty Bella was on its way to Colombia. We did have to remain flexible with our plans and bookings. Anything could still happen…
We loved the quiet park across the street, the “fancy” grocery stores blocks away (fresh European-style baguettes, anyone?), following the wide boardwalk, strolling a peaceful beach, and hanging out with our friends every other day or so. It was close to bliss (or do I dare say “vacation”) and the perfect conclusion to our five weeks in famous, yet very diverse and noisy, Cartagena!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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February 13, 2023 at 11:17
This post was fortunate timing for us. We plan to be in Cartagena in March but we have long since passed the age for your adventures; we will be on a cruise. Nonetheless, it was interesting to see the photos and read of your experiences.
February 13, 2023 at 13:12
Hello you two,
Enjoy your time in Cartagena! I’m sure you will. The historic buildings, walk on the wall, and many different parks are worth a visit. If you have time, take a stroll through the Getsemani neighborhood as well and “hunt” for the monkeys, sloths, and iguanas in Parque Centenario. Oh, and bring lots of water to drink! 🙂
Where else does your cruise go? How exciting.
Thanks for reading and commenting, and safe travels!
February 13, 2023 at 11:23
Your lifestyle always involves flexibility and learning to adjust to whatever curveballs life throws your way. It speaks to the character of some of the Colombian people (and people in general) that they would go out of their way to try and warn you of impending dangers.
February 13, 2023 at 13:14
The Colombian people have been one of the highlights of our travels in this country, Pete. If only they could speak a bit slower, though. 🙂 If I ever decide to call this lifestyle quits and settle, it will most likely have to do with all those curveballs – getting sick of them. And of the lack of comfort at times…
February 13, 2023 at 11:28
What an adventure! I can’t imagine doing that, except maybe on a tour, with a group, someone solving all the problems (like no ac). Keep it up!
February 13, 2023 at 13:15
Ha, when you look at it from that perspective, tours are the way to go. Way less hassles, discomforts, and decision making. But, less freedom as well. 🙂
February 13, 2023 at 13:10
Those places were cheap and rather interesting. Tons of traffic and fireworks sound annoying. I’m really impressed with the price of a taxi.
February 13, 2023 at 13:17
Hi Alex,
Yes, luckily taxis are affordable in Colombia. But, after a while, it all adds up. We are happy to be using our own transportation now. The extra money goes to toll roads. Outside of Cartagena, Airbnb rentals are even cheaper. Maybe we will stay at one again when we need a break from the road.
February 13, 2023 at 14:06
So many moves! I’m glad you got through it all safely.
February 15, 2023 at 14:20
Thanks, Anabel. We were very happy to get our camper back and leave Cartagena, whenever that finally happened. 🙂
February 13, 2023 at 14:11
Your accounts of the heat and traffic made me shudder. You’re far more adaptable than I. But at least you ended with a good (if more expensive) experience!
February 15, 2023 at 14:22
That time in Cartagena was what it was – an episode we had to get through. Unfortunately, it ate away at our three-month visa. Almost half of our time in Colombia had passed when we could finally explore the country in Thirsty Bella. Luckily, we managed to extend our visas and vehicle paperwork with another three months. 🙂
February 13, 2023 at 15:36
Hi, Liesbet – Once again, your flexibility, determination, problem solving abiliities and huge sense of adventure are incredibly impressive. Wishing you smooth travels from here.
February 15, 2023 at 14:24
Thanks for the wishes, Donna. We’ve had a lot of adventures in Colombia since leaving Cartagena and I hope to finally spend some time at my computer to report back. Life has been busy! I can’t believe we’ve been in this country for over three months already!
February 13, 2023 at 16:07
What a travelogue, Liesbet! I’m glad you were able to meet up with an “old” sailing friend as you adapt to changing environments “on the road.”
I like the Old World character of the buildings in Cartagena and continue to marvel at your flexibility. Happy trails and safe travels with Bella! 😀
February 15, 2023 at 14:27
Hi Marian,
Our friend Nathalie was the first person we met in Cartagena who speaks English, so it was cool to learn more in-depth information and dynamics about the country and the city.
I think that need for flexibility might be the end of our travels at some point, as it’s exhausting and often disappointing to remain fluid at all times and have many decisions and hopes not work out. But, not yet. If we can recharge our batteries once in a while, we can handle new and unexpected situations better. 🙂
February 13, 2023 at 18:31
Yes AC is important to dogs in hot countries. I am so glad owner Wendy stepped up. Maya must be the world’s best traveled dog.
February 15, 2023 at 14:30
Hi Thomas,
Maya is getting there with her travels – many US states and Canadian provinces, Mexico, and now Colombia. But our two previous Australian shepherd mixes (also rescue dogs) probably beat most dogs – and even humans. They traveled throughout North and Central America (all countries) and some island nations. 🙂
Our current camper doesn’t have AC, but the countries in South America have different elevations, so we prefer to travel in the mountains these months.
February 15, 2023 at 13:34
I want to see sloths and monkeys on my walks!
We are feeling your life in Cartagena now – except for the weather. The weather is perfect in Mexico. But we are now waiting with uncertainty, extending our stay by not knowing for how long. (Oh and just found out just now we have to move out of our room and in the van for 3 days!) Yes, there are complications with getting the money to get the van repaired.
So nice that you splurged on your last place and were more comfortable. I think being by the water makes everything better.
February 15, 2023 at 14:35
Hi Duwan,
I’m so sorry to read about your continued issues with the van repair in Mexico. And, strange about needing to leave the cabin already. It’s so hard to arrange repairs – and sometimes accommodation – in places like Mexico and Colombia. Do the people speak English where you are? The repair guy and the campground staff?
We just ran around for four hours trying to source long screws and bolts to hopefully fix our renewed structural problem with the camper. No luck. We will have to go into Medellin, an hour away, to try and find what we (think we) need. Everything in Spanish, of course…
I guess we can wish each other luck this week to get all issues resolved! Oh, can’t you give the transmission guy a deposit in cash so he can get the part in and the work started? Have you looked into Western Union? In some countries they can quickly transfer money without a fee.
February 16, 2023 at 07:59
I’ve just been writing about our experience staying in a small town with narrow sidewalks, barking dogs, and a lack of green space, so this all sounded so familiar. I know exactly how stressful dealing with all of that can be. Absent the dog, so many of these things wouldn’t be that big an issue, but when you have a dog, it makes a world of difference in everyone’s quality of life. I’m glad you got through it and eventually found a calmer place.
February 17, 2023 at 11:58
Hi Laura,
It seems like we are having parallel lives and experiences these months, but in different countries and under different circumstances. I guess the major common denominator is the dog. Yes, life would be so much easier, less stressful, and less frustrating without our dogs, especially in cities. It’s certainly something people without dogs (or who don’t travel with dogs) would not understand. The extent goes further than just an annoying walk in the city or having to deal with aggressive local dogs. Some of these experiences have traumatized Maya, and she’s not the easiest dog to begin with.
Mark and I have even contemplated if it was a good idea to come to South America with a dog, since she’s had some negative experiences and she is keeping us from some of the amazing experiences we could have had. Still, like Thor, Maya is a very important part of the family and she comes first, so we adjust to her needs, requirements, and moods! 🙂
February 17, 2023 at 08:40
Variety is the spice of life and you guys certainly get a lot of that. I love how your travels are not sanitised and made to look perfect. You are always authentic and honest with your experiences, hence why reading your blog posts is always so fascinating.
It is also impressive how resilient you are, finding solutions and keeping up with changes of plans. Looking forward to continue following along.
February 17, 2023 at 12:00
Thanks for the compliments, Gilda. You know all about international travel and how to deal with the ups and downs. Everything is made just a tad more challenging with a dog in tow. And, we don’t really have a home or place to return to for a break from the road or to recharge our batteries. So we have to be flexible and resilient, or the adventure/lifestyle is over.
February 17, 2023 at 10:55
Hi Liesbet, I’m glad you got through several moves in five weeks safely. Big cities with noises and the heat/ humidity are hard on our mind and body. The street art looks great. I saw howler monkeys and sloths on trees everywhere when I was in Costa Rica. I hope you’ve found somewhere nicer to relax and recover.
February 17, 2023 at 12:03
Hi Natalie,
We are so glad those five weeks of Airbnb living – and waiting – are over and we get to live our own lives again, which has its own challenges, of course. But now we can escape places we don’t like or stay longer in the ones that bring us joy.
Costa Rica is such a great country for wildlife spotting. After Cartagena, we have not met any animals these last two months. I’m a bit disappointed about that. But, most of the tropical species live in the jungle and it is way too hot, humid, and buggy there for our trio! 🙂
February 18, 2023 at 17:33
You have had some ups and downs but your ups are far out weighing the downs.
February 21, 2023 at 15:46
So far, I totally agree with you, Susan. The ups outweigh the downs. As long as we can keep seeing the unmarked topes and crater potholes, and keep our calm on the roads, we will be fine in Colombia for another couple of months. 🙂
February 19, 2023 at 06:03
I love the street art, Liesbet. Each area seemed to have its pros and cons, but the heat and humidity would have done me in.
Thanks goodness you never walked into that dangerous area. It’s good to hear that some residents look out for the safety of visitors. The city is also screaming out for more nice bakeries. there is obvious a market there for someone to fill.
How strange that milk comes in packets. Was the packaging recyclable?
February 21, 2023 at 15:51
Hi Hugh!
Yes, the biggest negative – other than its noise and business – in Cartagena is its climate. Good for a few days, but anything longer than that wears you out. For now, we are sticking to the mountains in Colombia, where, believe it or not, it has been quite chilly! One day, we will find our perfect weather. 🙂
I had to get used to the milk in bags. When I posted something about this on Facebook, back in November (yes, unlike my SM posts, my blogs are way behind), I learned that many countries did or still do package milk like this.
As far as I know, the packaging is not recyclable. As a matter of fact, in a big city like Cartagena, we didn’t see any recycling options. Also, in Latin American countries, trash is part of life – in cities and the countryside. It’s very sad.
Colombians like everything sweet, especially their bread, so the need for great bakeries would mostly be for gringos of which there are few here…
February 22, 2023 at 10:22
That’s such a shame about the rubbish and litter, Liesbet. And about no recycling options either. Takes me right back to the 1980s when everything went into the bin and then to landfill.
I’ve seen milk in cartons, but never in bags. Thank f=goodness those cartons can be recycled, though.
It sounds to me as if the diet in Colombia is not very healthy. Is there much fruit and vegetables available?
February 24, 2023 at 15:10
Yes, it’s crazy how far behind some countries are regarding recycling, even the US. As a kid in Belgium, we already recycled at least glass products, which still get tossed into the general trash in states like Texas, Arizona, New Mexico… In parts of those states anyway.
Colombia also has milk in tetra brick cartons and those are recyclable. Yet, we have only seen recycle bins in progressive towns and in homes of friends here.
In general, the Colombians stick to an unhealthy diet – fried food is king. That being said, practically everything (but rice we were told) grows in this country, because of the different climate zones and fertile soil. Every town – big or tiny – has produce for sale, which is fresh, diverse, and inexpensive.
I know you’re not on Facebook, but I recently posted a photo on there of a bunch of veggies and fruit we bought for the equivalent of $4: https://web.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10160060418013101&set=a.10153548315508101.:-)