On July 7th, 2025, Mark took a cab to São Paulo’s airport for his annual visit to Massachusetts, our official state of residence in the US. For almost three weeks, he visited doctors, family, and friends, while Maya and I stayed at the Jorai Campground in Bertioga.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Mark is ready for his ride to the airport.
The employees of the campground installed these lights just for us.
Home for three weeks
My illusion of a three-week beach vacation—just my dog and me—quickly evaporated. The weather was chilly and rainy, the environment basic, I had to be extremely careful with our fresh water since Bertioga’s city water isn’t potable, ultralights took off multiple times a day creating frequent noise, and paid work arrived almost daily.
One of the ultralights
Laundry facilities at the campground
Basic shower block for women
One of the ultralights on the beach
Weed whacking around Thirsty Bella – Maya hates it!
Doing laundry at the campground
Still, I made the best of it and settled into a routine: morning exercises, laundry, shopping, cleaning, working, long beach walks with Maya, chatting with my fellow UK camper, hot showers, cooking and cleaning, nightly phone calls with Mark, and catching up on writing, Portuguese practice, and online interactions. I also prepped the camper and took photos for our upcoming “camper for sale” ad.
The gate from Jorai campground to the beach
You can walk on Bertioga Beach for miles!
Big, flat, and wide Bertioga Beach
My daily beach walk with Maya
One of the rivers entering the sea in Bertioga
My beach for three weeks
Comfy Maya
On the one sunny, warm day, Maya ran in the waves.
Lots of time spent on the computer
My dog and me
Trying to calm down our anxious dog
Lots of organizing and cleaning going on
Morning exercises with Maya
Swinging by British Mark and his dog, Fran, and van
Going out for one drink on the beach with British Mark and Fran
Mark eventually returned with a clean bill of health (yay!), and the three of us looked forward to driving north along the coast while checking out Brazil’s sights and beaches. A slower pace awaited—or so we thought.
City sign
Whale statue along the seaside
Nice walking path along the beaches
Long beach walk with Maya to the southern end of the beach
Our destination was this fort.
Mark returned with goodies for people, dog, and camper
Jureia Beach
Before leaving Bertioga, we washed the car. Near Jureia, we filled the tanks with fresh water and settled in at our favorite beach spot. We repaired a few things with parts Mark had brought back from the US and enjoyed slower days.
Filling our water tank with potable water
Installing a new kitchen faucet
Enjoying happy hour at a grassy “beach”
Our camping spot in Jureia
Pretty Jureia Beach
Not a bad view of our backyard
Sunrise at Jureia Beach
One one side the ocean and on the other side the mountains
Our little family at Jureia Beach
A storm soon swept through, toppling trees and wires across the pretty neighborhood, cutting off electricity and internet. Sometimes it’s good to be self-contained!
Start your self-catered South American adventure now! All you need to embark on this trip of a lifetime is a plane ticket and your personal belongings. 🙂
Bella in Chile
Mark, Maya, and I are wrapping up our three-year journey on the South American continent and are looking for a couple or small family that will enjoy our truck camper Bella as much as we have. If you know of anyone interested in an overland adventure with the perfect set-up for this part of the world, please let them know about our vehicle or share this post with them. We are very happy to answer any questions.
Thirsty Bella in Peru
Here are the details of our rig and a bunch of photos.
FOR SALE:
Fully Equipped Truck Camper – Ford F350 + Lance 830
This camper is set up for fulltime off-grid living and the vehicle is the perfect transportation to explore South America and beyond.
Price: $47,500 USD
Location: Argentina/Chile/Paraguay
Available: Now.
We speak English, Dutch, and some French and Spanish.
Registered/titled in the United States, easy transfer to any nationality via visitor.us.
You can also use a poder to travel while waiting for official US registration/title.
Camper and truck are meticulously maintained to provide care-free travel. Clean title/no accidents.
Likely one of the best equipped vehicles in South America with the lowest miles.
The cow décor brings smiles and laughs to the locals and allowed us to meet some great people along the way by giving them something to ask us about. We loved it and enjoyed making people smile during our travels. That said, the cow spots are stickers and can be removed if they are not your thing.
The camper can be removed from the truck to allow for exploration with just the truck.
Truck camper, passenger side with an awning and side entrance door
Truck camper, driver side with newly-painted ladder and jacks
Separating our camper and truck for cleaning purposes
Truck details:
Currently ~72000 miles.
2016 F350 with 6.2L gas engine (385hp) and 6-speed automatic transmission. This engine/transmission combination is extremely reliable.
Front seating for 3, or 2 with a center console.
Extended cab with a back seat suitable for children and/or pets. Adults will be cramped. Seating for 3.
35-gallon (132 liter) fuel tank.
Short truck bed (6’ ¾”) so it has a shorter wheelbase, which makes it easy to turn and maneuver.
4WD with in-cab switch on demand.
Front hubs auto and manual lock.
4WD High and Low.
Rear differential lock.
Flex-fuel compatible so no issues with high ethanol fuel in Brazil.
Power windows/locks. Windows in back doors are manual. Rear window in back is glass and electric.
Running boards along the entire cab.
Tablet mount on dash with wired USB-C cable.
Dash cam.
Moo horn (crucial safety equipment).
3M security film on truck windows to prevent them from breaking (easily).
We are the 2nd owner.
Oil change every 5k miles with full synthetic.
Air filter changed every 20k miles.
Coolant changed at 40k.
Transmission oil changed at 70k.
Transfer case oil changed at 40k.
Spark plugs replaced at 60k.
Front brake pads replaced at 48k.
Rear brake pads replaced at 64k.
All oil and filters are Motorcraft/Ford.
Front tires replaced at 55k and rear tires replaced at 58k. AT tires with plenty of tread left.
Vair portable air compressor.
New truck battery 4/2024.
Heavy duty tow strap.
Titled in Massachusetts (US) and can be fully transferred to anyone (not just US residents) via visitor.us.
Spare parts: Oil filters, belt, ignition coils, front and rear brake pads, caliper pins.
Full set of tools with imperial and metric sockets, 3 torque wrenches, oil filter wrench.
Tools for electrical repairs.
OBD-II reader for Forscan Ford specific computer diagnostic software.
Full Ford workshop manual in PDF.
Truck is stock beyond the addition of Timbrens to help the rear suspension and Bilstein shocks all around.
Torklift camper tiedowns mounted to the frame of the truck for camper attachment.
Driven up to 15,500ft with no engine issues.
Total vehicle height with camper is 10.6ft (~3.2m).
5-gallon jerrycan for extra fuel
Front seats F350
Back seats F350
F350 Info Sticker
F350 Payload Sticker
F350 VIN Sticker
Camper:
2008 Lance 830. Very rare side-door entry truck camper. Roomiest floor plan for a truck camper this size.
Aluminum frame structure.
We are the second owners.
Outfitted specifically for off-grid travel in South America.
Standing height inside is about 6’ 3” (1.9m). I am 6’ 1” and fit comfortably.
Queen-size bed with 2” memory foam on top of spring mattress.
Dinette area for 4 people that converts to a smaller bed.
Wet bath with Separett Tiny composting toilet, wet shower and sink.
Kitchen with 2-burner stove, large and deep sink, 12V oven, and 12V Isotherm compressor refrigerator.
Water filtration system with .5-micron filter to allow for drinking tank water.
4 large awning-style windows with shades and screens.
All windows and hatches have mosquito/bug screens.
2 ceiling fans. MaxxFan above the bed (in/out) and Fantastic fan in bathroom (out).
LED lights throughout.
Permanently mounted Starlink wired to 12V with on/off switch. Mounted inside the camper in a ceiling skylight.
Permanently mounted router for use with Starlink. Gl-MT3000.
Large manual full-length awning on side of camper.
Outside LED lights on 3 sides of the camper.
USB charging ports.
Single 20lb US propane tank.
2 heaters (propane). 1 forced air heater for when it’s really cold; also keeps tanks and plumbing from freezing. 1 catalytic heater that uses no electricity and is great for above freezing situations.
Gas grill with quick disconnect to use main tank for gas. No camping bottles needed.
1 large outside storage compartment.
48 gallons of fresh water. We added an additional 18-gallon tank to the standard 30 gallons. Plumbed together.
17-gallon grey water tank.
6-gallon hot water tank.
No black tank. Storage space now as that tank was removed when we installed the Separett.
Outside shower with hot/cold water.
4 electrical jacks with remote control to take camper off the truck.
400 Watts of solar panels mounted on the roof.
Victron 100/30 MPPT solar controller.
Victron Smart Shunt battery monitor.
Victron Orion XS 50A DC-DC charger. Charges from truck alternator.
Camper is wired for 120V. Can charge battery from a 120V power source (35A). A local transformer would allow you to plug into 220V outlets. We rarely had the need to plug-in for power because of solar and truck charging systems.
500W pure sine wave inverter.
Single 272Ah lithium battery with Bluetooth management/monitoring.
Keyless entry on the door with a keypad (or key).
Fastgun turnbuckles to secure camper to the truck.
Camper connects to trailer plug of truck for all camper driving lights.
Camper connects via separate large Anderson style plug for DC-DC charging.
Tablet mounted on wall as permanent battery monitor connected to all Victron equipment.
Electric chainsaw to cut branches and small trees.
Spare parts for lots of things like electrical work, plumbing, caulk, repair tape, etc. Spare water pump. Spare water filters.
Lots of normal camping and household gear. Plates, pots, pans, glasses, outdoor chairs, bedding, snorkel gear, 12V vacuum, 2 camping tables, etc…..
Floorplan Lance 830
Tank monitor
Dinette
Compressor fridge
Queen-size bed
Camper interior view towards the front
Camper interior view towards the back
Bathroom with a shower, toilet, sink, and medicine cabinet
Once you get used to maneuvering, the camper can be taken off the truck in about 10-15 minutes. It takes about 20-30 minutes to put it back on.
This flexibility offers the best of both worlds: you can leave the camper safe in a campground and take the truck anywhere you could imagine. For us, this combination of truck and camper is ideal for South America and we would not have done it any differently.
Kitchen
Kitchen with open cabinets
Compressor fridge, 12V oven, grill, cabinets, sliding pantry to the right
We have posted regularly on this blog if you’re interested in the full history of our overland travels thus far.
It is time for new adventures – for the new owners, for the camper, and for us.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary
Instead of staying in Brazil after visiting Iguaçu Falls and driving north from there, Mark and I decided to return to Paraguay en route to our next destination, for three reasons: fuel is cheaper in Paraguay, so we wanted to cover a bunch of distance in that country; we didn’t want to use some of our precious, three-month entry allowance for Brazil just driving; and we preferred more time in Paraguay, since we’d enjoyed it. I wrote about those last Paraguayan days here.
Our Brazilian route
Border Crossing into Brazil
On June 17th, we left Paraguay and crossed into Brazil again, needing to drive all over town to find the required government offices and paperwork. This was a very different method from our usual border crossings, where the buildings and desks are located along the main highway. But we got everything straightened out and found a great and affordable grocery store with new products.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
The police acts as immigration
We are not sure what these shacks are on the way to Bonito. Temporary housing for field workers?
In almost every country we’ve driven through in South America, we have seen a flipped semi truck.
Bonito
That first night was spent at a loud truck stop near Bonito, confirming the fact that Brazil – especially the inland areas – is very heavy on truck traffic. The rutted condition of the roads, bumper-to-bumper traffic in cities, the actual percentage of these massive beasts in relation to cars, and the number of gas stations/truck stops with truckers’ facilities all contributed to this reality.
We see way more trucks than cars on the roads in Brazil.
Extra-long logging truck
Our first camp spot in Brazil was at a noisy truck stop.
I had looked forward to snorkeling activities and scenic excursions in Bonito for many years (my blogging friend Gilda wrote an extensive post about it), but a few elements were against us. Prices were sky high (but we did say we’d commit to one excursion); we happened to be there on a long holiday weekend, which increased those steep prices by another 25%; and rainy/chilly days were ahead.
Welcome to Bonito
One of the clear rivers running near town
Loads of fish
Before making any decisions about which company and which excursion to book, we walked Maya along one of the clear rivers, noticed we were close to an attractive-sounding campground, and checked this place out. Not only did we love the grounds, we also spotted our new South African friends Jo and Wayne.
Settled for two days and one night
The truck set-up of our South African friends
The decision was made to move into the campground on that rare hot and sunny day and enjoy the facilities. The price for camping was steep for us, but the employees let us stay the following day until dark without charging extra, so it was well worth it!
Small waterfall at our pay campground
This pretty river ran through our campground – our reason to stay on a hot day.
Maya is more interested in this stick than in anything else.
Cooling off with our dog
I enjoyed wading through this creek, sliding down a small waterfall, and swimming back to the dock. Maya did not join me on this little jaunt.
Truth be told, I didn’t know anything about these gigantic waterfalls before arriving on the South American continent, which is strange, since they belong in the same category as majestic Victoria Falls and Niagara Falls. Like me, you’ve probably heard of those natural wonders. Yet, Eleanor Roosevelt is known to utter the words “Poor Niagara!” when she first saw Iguazu Falls. 🙂
Following a boardwalk on the lowest level in Brazil
Iguaçu/Iguazú Falls are recognized as a natural wonder of the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the “New 7 Wonders of Nature.” The area is known for its immense scale, with 275 individual cascades spanning nearly two miles (3 km), making it the largest waterfall system in the world. The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu River and have heights of 200 to 263 feet (60–82 meters).
The amazing vista opening up after our walk – a great way to approach this site in Brazil
I had no idea that Iguaçu/Iguazu Falls straddled a border between two countries or that their name was spelled differently, depending on the side of the border. Heck, I didn’t even know just how impressive and numerous the falls were until we showed up!
Best view of the Argentinian falls
Mark and I prefer not to research highlights much or look at photos ahead of time. Just like with other spectacular sites, like Bryce Canyon and Arches National Parks in Utah, we arrived at this site “unprepared” and gazed in wonder. “Wow! Those waterfalls keep going as far as the eye can see.” Impressive! When you don’t have expectations, you can truly be surprised, awed, and inspired.
Overview of some falls at a lower level in Brazil
Iguaçu Falls in Brazil
As I mentioned in my recent expense report for June, Mark and I only planned to visit the Brazilian side of the falls, after asking among our friends which side they preferred (and why), reading comments in our free iOverlander camping app, and considering fees and logistics.
In Part 1, we shared our first impressions of Paraguay and explored its historic Jesuit missions. Now, our journey continues with reunions, big cities, muddy roads, and a deeper look at life in this underrated country.
Southern Paraguay contains most of the country’s attractions.
Paraguay in South America
Map Overview Paraguay
Back to Encarnación: Reunion Time
On May 19th, we reunited with our American friends Duwan and Greg from Make Like An Apeman, who’d just finished backpacking South America for a year. They had booked two Airbnbs — one in Encarnación, the other near Areguá, an hour from the capital — and invited us to stay.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Our first apartment and its small yard
Using the car as transportation device
Doing heaps of laundry
Yay! The Airbnb has a washing machine!
We quickly separated the camper from the truck, parked on a concrete pad, and shut down our fridge to enjoy house life for a change. The next few days were cozy and productive: we took turns cooking dinners, I did heaps of laundry in the available machine, Mark and I ran errands and caught up on work, and our group explored the city and waterfront with Maya.
Stack near the waterfront
Walking along the river with our friends
Happy hour at the beach bar
We also followed a boardwalk to the colorful city “letters” and strolled past Encarnación’s cathedral and central plaza.
Sunset over “the letters” of Encarnación
The cathedral of Encarnación
Sapucai: An Old Train Yard
As our friends stayed behind for another night, we hit the road towards Asunción, because we required two days of driving to reach the capital area. We stopped in Sapucai, known for its old train yard.
Potholed roads of Paraguay
Old train in Supacay
Camped for the night in Supacay
Sapucay along the old railroad tracks
Unfortunately, the train museum closed earlier than indicated (we managed to visit in the morning), our fresh water tank ran dry (so we struggled with the little bit of drinking water we had left), and loud traffic and fireworks made sleep impossible (we should be getting used to this.)
Visit to the railroad workshop
The old railyard is now a museum
Old train engine
Part of the museum: old office equipment
Railway museum
A walk on the grounds of the museum
Still, we walked Maya on a bike path and tried to stay flexible, adjusting our plans due to impending rain and muddy red dirt roads.
This cat stayed with us the entire time.
The railway bed is now a walking and biking trail
Persistent cat
Yaguarón: The Wooden Church
Before reaching the capital region, we visited Templo de San Buenaventura in Yaguarón, known for its ornate wooden interior. A local guide explained the church’s intricate design for a tip.
The interesting church of Yaguarón
Interior of the church
Intricate altar
View from the interior of the church towards the outside
The old bell tower with the antique bell in the foreground
Paraguay is a country often skipped by overlanders and tourists alike. With no world-famous attractions and sandwiched between popular Brazil and Argentina, it remains overlooked. But after traveling through increasingly expensive countries, Mark and I were more than ready for a change. Paraguay promised affordability, authenticity, and, according to our friends — sushi!
Southern Paraguay contains most of the country’s attractions.
Paraguay in South America
Map Overview Paraguay
Encarnación: Entering Paraguay
We crossed into Encarnación on May 11th without any issues — unless you count Mark knocking over the customs officer’s mate cup. That moment confirmed a fun fact: in Paraguay, mate is served cold, unlike in Argentina. Another surprise? The now soaked and hand-written vehicle permit had to be recreated.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Crossing the international bridge between Posadas, Argentina and Encarnacion, Paraguay
We have arrived in a new country!
Filling out the car permit for a second time
Paraguayan license plate
The city gave us a place to run long-delayed errands, save on gas prices, and visit a grocery store that had many items we couldn’t find or afford for a year. We loaded up, grabbed BBQ from a Sunday street stand, and sat by the river feeling like we’d finally entered another budget-travel paradise.
Our first meal in Paraguay is take-out asado
A friendly face and friendly prices at the gas station
Well-stocked grocery store Super Seis
Celebrating our arrival with a drink
Our first (free) boondocking spot in Paraguay
Sunset over the river
But reality hit that night: loud motorcycles, thumping music, and little chance of sleep reminded us that we were still very much in Latin America.
Waterfront boardwalk
The main beach in Encarnacion
Old warehouse
Old silo
Lifeguard station on the main beach
A pretty river beach in Encarnacion
Beach sign with the skyline of Posadas in Argentina in the background
Life on the Waterfront (and a Sushi Dream)
Knowing Paraguay would be cheaper than Argentina or Chile, we’d saved up chores and repairs. In Encarnación, we tackled a camper ladder repaint, installed a mirror, and found transmission parts — choosing to do the work ourselves to save $400 in labor. The waterfront became our “work station.”
A new mirror
Picking up and installing our freshly painted ladder
Despite the chaos, one night stood out: Mark and I finally went out for cocktails and indulged in a sushi boat at Hiroshima, a Japanese restaurant. We hadn’t felt that luxurious in years.
Mark, Maya, and I set foot in Argentina for the first time on March 6th, 2024, coming from Chile and Bolivia. Sure, we hopped into Chile a few more times, and we enjoyed a three-month break in our home countries since then, but we feel we gave our explorations of Argentina a valiant attempt. So much so that, in the end, we couldn’t wait to leave. We realized that slow travel—while it has many advantages—can also wear you down in third-world countries.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Bumpy roads as always
More crappy roads in Argentina
One of the police checkpoints. In Argentina, they usually let us pass without hassles.
After saying goodbye to our friends Heather and Jon in Mendoza, our trio headed east, with the Córdoba region as our first main destination. We stopped at a couple of places beforehand, but didn’t sleep well due to traffic noise and encountered restrictions in national parks because of Maya. After that, we gave up on Argentinian parks altogether.
Walk in the dunes with Maya
In this area, Maya was allowed
We had hoped to go for a few hikes in this national park, but …
… dogs aren’t allowed. Not even when they stay in the camper. We were told to board our dog if we wanted to stay.
What follows is a realistic account of our life and discomfort on the road, with a few sights thrown in. It wasn’t the best month we’ve had.
Route Northern Argentina
Dique Luján
We searched iOverlander for a quiet spot over Easter weekend and found a reasonable option by the dam of Luján. Coincidentally, we had picked a campsite close to a pilgrimage site with Stations of the Cross.
Pilgrimage to the top of the crosses
Top of the crosses route
Procession on Easter Friday
One of the stations of the cross
We managed decent walks with Maya and the sun finally gave us the warm weather we’d been waiting for after our coldest and wettest summer on record. But because of the heat, our fridge started acting up again—running too much, too hard, and draining the camper battery.
Our camping spot by Dique Lujan
Walk along the canyon
Sandy Maya after a swim
Reflections in the reservoir
Maya’s favorite spot in the house
After one warm day, the clouds returned, power became precious again, and the wind picked up. The incessant shaking of the camper upset both Maya and our sleep. We had finally found a quiet place, but ended up moving in the middle of the night to find better wind protection among trees.
The Lujan dam
Crossing the dam on foot
Staring down the dam
View of the reservoir above the dam
Maya poses next to a condor mural on the dam
The following morning, we moved away from those same trees, fearing they might drop particles on the roof that would upset Maya. We found an open-air spot, but that didn’t help with power since it rained all day. We had to run the car for an hour just to charge the battery enough to work—our computers and Starlink need a lot of electricity. Mark and I also cleaned the fridge’s compressor with Q-tips and improved its ventilation. That helped it run more efficiently.
Ready to clean the compressor tubes of our fridge
Relaxing by the river
River view from our camp spot
On Easter morning at 8am, teenagers in two cars pulled up next to us, opened their doors, and blasted music. We had planned to leave anyway, so we took off for a long day in the car.
While we were camped at a peaceful lake in Central Chile, snow was predicted in the mountains, where the border stations are located. Since Maya’s international health permit was expiring soon, we needed to prevent getting stuck because of road or frontier closures. So, at the end of March, Mark, Maya, and I left Chile with no intention to return. Unless we decide to sell our truck camper in Santiago, its capital, whenever we are done with this adventure.
Region in Argentina covered in this post
Southern part of our route to Mendoza
Middle part of our route to Mendoza
Northern part of our route to Mendoza
Loncopué
Entering Argentina for the last time was smooth, but involved a lot of bumpy roads and disappointing campsite hunts for one reason or another; the strong winds, incessant traffic noise, and an anxious Maya being the main culprits. We encountered countless sleepless nights on our drive north.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Returning to Argentina one more time
Sunset before the winds picked up
Camped in Codihue, before moving to a less windy region
When we moved to a different town and found a relatively peaceful, wind-protected, and grassy spot among the herds and shepherds moving their animals from their summer grounds in the Andes Mountains to the winter valleys and farms, we felt better. It was cool to be a part of “the pack.”
Our camping spot along the river in Loncopué
Being part of the herd
People, horses, and dogs crossed this river throughout the day.
Sunny and still morning, before the winds picked up
Still cold enough to freeze at night!
Here are two videos to get a better feel of the camping scene:
Caviahue
Then, it was time for an unexpected highlight in Argentina. Caviahue contained a few attractions based on our resources, but it was located at an even higher elevation, meaning it would freeze at night. Since this causes condensation and discomfort issues, we wanted to keep our time there to a minimum and managed to complete all our excursions within 24 hours.
Memorials inside the rocks and mountains
A remote existence
First glimpse of Volcano Copahue
First, we drove to this fascinating, beautiful, and diverse area and hiked along a clear lake to a stone bridge. Erosion had impacted the volcanic rock here, creating this natural arch.
Walk to the stone bridge or arch
Explanation for this natural phenomenon
The natural bridge with Maya and me on top
A cool volcanic feature
Mountain reflections in the lake
Scene along the lake
Then, we reached and admired patches of monkey puzzle trees. Also called Araucaria (or Pehuen in the local language), it is the national tree of Chile and of the Argentinian province, Neuquén, where we found ourselves.
Driving towards a monkey puzzle forest and waterfall trail
The skinny canopy of monkey puzzle trees
Monkey puzzle trees come in many sizes
Close-up of the spiky branches of the monkey puzzle tree
It was a bit tricky, but Mark and I managed to get a vet check-up and international dog permit for Maya in Futaleufú over the span of three hours and for a total cost of $28. Unfortunately, unlike her other permits, this one was only valid for 30 instead of 60 days. It would keep us moving!
Location of the Lake Districts in both countries
Lake District in Argentina
Lake District in Chile
The same afternoon, we left the country and crossed into Argentina on washboard roads, aiming for six things in one week: sunnier weather on the other side of the Andes Mountains, better roads, cheaper fuel, no ferry schedules/costs that were mandatory on the Carretera Austral, an affordable laundromat, and a full propane tank. After accomplishing those goals, we’d return to Chile for about three weeks.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Back to Argentina
More potholed, gravel roads on the Argentinian side
In Esquel, our first town in Argentina, we failed dropping off our laundry and it took multiple attempts to find a decent camping spot. We did manage to fill our fuel and water tanks for almost half the price than in Chile!
This was a problem… We couldn’t enter our intended camping area in Esquel this way.
After a big and bumpy detour, we reached the camping spot a different way.
Another victim from the uneven roads – We are down to two cereal bowls now (from four).
Pretty and peaceful park for the night
A nice park to walk with Maya
The next stop was Rio Azul, where we planned to take a mini-break from the road for a few days and sit out bad weather. We did have to move once, because it rained so much that the river rose rapidly and we worried about being flooded.
Can you believe this track crosses the river?
We enjoyed this spot, before it started pouring!
Nice camping spot for a few nights
Cleaning our pee container in the river
And then the river rose! Mark put a stack of rocks on the edge to monitor the flood level.
Walk to the other side of the river with Maya
Our walking destination was this pretty waterfall.
Crossing the suspension bridge
We had to move to a higher spot when the river kept rising.
Bariloche, Argentina
The idea was to – urgently – fill our propane tank at a depot on the way north to Bariloche. We were now on paved roads, the sun had returned, and progress was smooth. We had confirmed this depot was open on a Saturday morning, but when we arrived, desperate for gas to cook, shower, and heat Bella, the people capable of filling international tanks didn’t work during the weekend. The facility was only open to swap Argentinian tanks… Right.
My previous blog post about the Carretera Austral in Chile was getting too long, so I’m reporting on our rafting trip in Futaleufú separately. This cute town is located near the border with Argentina, two hours from the Carretera via a really bad dirt road. Mark and I booked a tour with Rio Futaleufú Rafting for March 3rd, which would have the least amount of rain in the forecast. We left Maya at home for six hours, a record for her, and looked forward to this exciting adventure.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Office of our rafting company
Mark and I booked our 2.5-hour rafting trip with this company.
I love, love, love rafting. In my book, it is the most fun and thrilling excursion one can experience; the more rambunctious and frequent the rapids, the better. The action of rushing through the water, frantically paddling to the instructions of the guide, and being one with the elements is invigorating. And that’s how this ride started out.
Our group consisted of two rafting guides, two rafts, eleven rafters, and three support crew in individual watercraft. Everyone was equipped with a wetsuit, undershirts, booties, a rain jacket, a life vest, a helmet, and a paddle.
In full rafting gear
Ready for a cold day on the water
The two groups of rafters and guides
After some instructions ashore, we practiced commands on the water and got to know each other better. Each of our six-person team had rafted before. Mark and I did so in Costa Rica 19 years ago and my first rafting trip was in New Zealand, when I backpacked in Southeast Asia and Down Under at age 25. It had been a while, since rafting isn’t cheap.
Listening to instructions
Pampa preferred to practice the moves on the water
Here we go…
Every river is different and the Futa is famous for its high density and frequency of Class IV and Class V rapids. Mark and I had never rafted a Class V stretch of water, so we’d paid for the longer session ($92 per person, including photos) to experience them. Within the first five minutes of floating down the foamy river (the water level was quite high), we were soaking wet and loving it. We rushed through the sequences of Class IV rapids, smiling wide, and most of our group jumped down a 20-foot-high cliff just for the fun of it.
The first rapids were benign
Once we reached the foamy parts of the river, we got soaking wet.
Down the rapid
Both groups rafting downriver
Navigating the river
So much fun!
Quick sequence of rapids
Down another Class IV rapid
Hold!
Forward!
Photo moment
Rafting down more Class IV rapids in different positions
Roaming About – Liesbet Collaert & Mark Kilty & Maya
We have been perpetual nomads as RVers, sailors, house and pet sitters, and overlanders since 2003. Currently, the three of us are roaming about South America in our truck camper Bella.
As lifetime adventurers, we are self-employed and maintain a tight budget. This blog is about all that – and more – to inspire a life less ordinary. Don’t dream but do! 🙂
