Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: International Travel (page 1 of 10)

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – December 2025 (Chile & USA)

 

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

Note: This is most likely the last monthly expense report from us. We don’t seem to be able to stick to our $1,300 – $1,500 budget anymore, Mark doesn’t think anyone is interested in our numbers, these posts overlap with my normal updates, and we are not overlanding or traveling at the moment. I will still publish our yearly report later this month or in early February, depending on my spare time.

In December, Mark, Maya, and I spent (the last) five days in our ex-home on wheels, Thirsty Bella and rented a small apartment for three weeks in Santiago de Chile. We slept the last five nights of 2025 in two different beds in the US state of Massachusetts, where we still are now.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

It was an interesting, expensive, and not so ordinary month for us. If this resembles our life without a camper, we could never afford doing it full-time! The biggest culprit was an unexpected expense regarding Maya, however.

Accommodation was the highest category, because we stayed in Chile’s capital after selling our truck camper and decided to finish our South American adventure in an “upscale” Airbnb for three weeks. By “upscale” I mean that we picked a desirable neighborhood and an apartment with air conditioning and decent facilities.

I’ll report on that time later, but $785 went to this apartment living experience, which seems to be the going rate for this kind of place, unless you rent directly from locals without going through Airbnb or property managers.

We also stayed at a pay campground in the beginning of the month to get our camper ready and sparkling clean to be toured by and handed over to the new buyers. We spent $50 for three nights at Las Varas Campground in Santiago de Chile. Our nights camped in the capital’s Providencia neighborhood were free.

Our free urban camping spot in Santiago de Chile

A big shock arrived six days before we were due to depart the city, country, and continent by plane. That morning, I hugged Maya and she yelped. I didn’t think too much about it. A couple of hours later, when she lifted her head after resting, she yelped louder and this concerned us. Initially, we thought the pain came from a front leg—which had happened before but to a lesser extent—but as time progressed, the issue seemed to be her neck.

In the afternoon, the pain—and her cries—intensified, so we took her to a nearby vet in 95-degree weather. He said he couldn’t help us and he referred us to a more specialized and equipped clinic. We walked back home, researched other vets, and made an appointment for the following morning, a Saturday.

By evening, Maya’s screams broke our hearts, and made us panic, so we texted the vet if we could see her that night instead of the following morning. She gave us a 9pm appointment. Luckily, it was much cooler to walk at that time of the day.

After two hours of waiting, a checkup, chats in Spanish, blood work, X-rays, two shots of pain medication, a box of steroids, a prescription for two more drugs, a follow-up appointment for Christmas Eve, and a bill of $300, we left at 11pm.

The balance of the $472 we spent on vets in December went to the follow-up visit with this doctor, a previous vet visit to get another health certificate for Maya (right before her injury) to be able to fly, and a check-up visit in the US to figure out the real deal with our dog.

We also spent $90 on dog food—$30 for a 5.5kg one in Santiago and $60 for her usual 13kg bag of salmon kibble in the US. I bought pee pads for her ($2), just in case, because of a reaction to all the drugs. And, this was the most painful and stupid part, financially, we had to pay $66 for health certificates to be able to export our dog from Chile, which was pointless! The US didn’t require any permits or fees from us.

I’m sure you are wondering what was wrong with Maya, so I’ll quickly summarize. The vet in Chile said Maya had degenerative vertebrae disks that were inflamed and hurting, an old age thing. She was not allowed to exercise and move much that last week (which made us change many plans). The drugs caused her a lot of thirst and therefore needing pee breaks every two hours, and also gave her worrisome diarrhea, to be eased with an exclusively salmon diet. Then, more drugs to stop the diarrhea. It was a mess. And all this mere days before our flight. Talk about stressful!

At the vet in Massachusetts, we learned (for another $100) that she probably just had a sore neck from sleeping wrong on it. Good news but at a high price tag. While it might be hard to believe, this was actually the very first time in seven years (!) that Maya required a vet visit. All other visits have been related to paperwork and annual vaccinations.

Moving on. Our grocery bill was not too high, despite two expensive factors: Maya had to eat pounds of salmon (which probably cost us about $50) and we brought an extensive cheese, meat, and crackers platter to a New Year’s Eve party in Massachusetts ($80). We also splurged on a few goodies for ourselves while at the Airbnb.

What made this category on par with other months is that we had to “get rid of” all our food before leaving Santiago, so we cooked a lot of our own meals and only bought the bare minimums, apart from an exuberant delayed Thanksgiving meal. 🙂

Another unexpected expense was the cost—and hassle—of a new tire. When washing the car, Mark noticed a gash in one of our back tires. If we were to keep the camper, he would play it safe and replace the tire. So, we did the same for the new owners. That $166 was our last challenge and cost for Thirsty Bella.

The alcohol category was high at $127. We drank less than usual at the Airbnb, but made up for that—well, the spending not the drinking, since we got sick—for that same New Year’s Eve party and visit to friends.

Mark and I had plans to splurge on dinners out  while staying at the apartment in Santiago, especially that last week when we would have eaten most of our food, but Maya’s injury prevented that. So, we only spent $97, all in Chile.

We went out for ramen when still living in the camper and ordered a pizza (a story in itself), grilled chicken, and take-out hamburgers when in the apartment. I joined friends for a planned vegan lunch, while Mark stayed home with Maya.

To show their appreciation for the work we did on Thirsty Bella, for our help and transparency during the handover process, and maybe because they liked us as well, the new buyers of our camper – Marjolein and Max – treated us to a nice dinner at our favorite (French) restaurant in Santiago, Le Bistro de Gaetan. We had a very nice evening with a bit too much to drink. 😊

Our $82 transportation costs cover a car rental deposit in Portugal, two Uber rides to get to the Airbnb and to the airport with all our belongings, and two roundtrip metro rides for me to arrange Maya’s international health permit, while Mark stayed home with her.

Now that we are back in the US, it is time to order some essentials online. But not too many since we have no place to store anything. One of Mark’s “holy” Levi’s jeans got replaced with new ones (again) at a $27 eBay bargain price and he’s on the lookout for a second pair.

And we stocked up on strong dental floss for $8, since we are picky about that. These two containers hold a total of 400 yards/meters, so should last a while!

Before everything went downhill in Santiago, Mark and I stopped for Peruvian Pisco sour drinks on one of our walks with Maya. It was a tasty treat and it made us feel happy and relaxed to just stop and sit down for a cocktail, which is not our usual style, but which we should do more often.

Since I report on all our expenses, I’ll finish with an eBook I bought for $1. I’d like to also mention that our laundry was totally free in December, because our Airbnb had a washer/dryer combo, which was awesome!!!

Our own washer/dryer!

So, last month’s total was way above average (by $1,000!) at $2,300. We had a lot of “extras” going on but, without a camper in which we slept 99% of the time for free, our budget has to go up, unless we crash at family members’ places or overstay our welcome with friends. For the time being, we expect to spend about $1,000 on monthly rentals in Europe, interspersed with staying at friends’ places and my parents’ tiny house.

Happy budgeting in 2026!

December 2025 Overview:

Accommodation (Airbnb:$785; camping: $50):

Dog (vets: $472; food: $90; permits: $66; supplies: $2):

Groceries:

Car (new tire):

Alcohol:

Dining out:

Transportation (rental deposit: $39; Ubers: $37; metro: $6):

Clothing (jeans Mark):

Household (dental floss):

Drinking out:

Entertainment:

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$835

$629

$321

$166

$127

$97

$82

$27

$8

$7

$1

$0

———

$ 2,300

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: My five-day excursion to Easter Island (finally)!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

The Last Six Weeks in Our Truck Camper, “Thirsty Bella”, in Central Chile

In October, Mark, Maya, and I swapped Paraguay for Chile for two reasons: to pursue a Vario van for our next adventure and to be able to sell our own Thirsty Bella easier, since Central Chile is the starting point for many overlanders. Flights to Santiago are more affordable than elsewhere in South America, gear is easily available in a plethora of well-equipped stores, and there are companies selling cars to foreigners. Since our car was registered in the US, the transfer to a new owner would be easy, regardless.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

After long days of driving across Argentina, we arrived in Santiago, Chile’s capital, for the second time. We had fond memories of urban camping by Parque Metropolitano, which we’d hoped would become our base soon. We only stayed one night, to confirm if this was still an attractive overnight spot (it was), to fix our back window before the next rain, and to visit Suzie Santiago CTW’s office within walking distance. We would hire them to do the paperwork if we were to buy a Chilean Vario. It was all part of our months of research, gathering data, and interacting with potential service providers.

We also checked out Suzie Santiago’s workshop on the outskirts of the city and spent one night at a noisy truck stop before heading south towards Pichilemu, where we would set eyes on a Vario van that had a horrible conversion done to it.

The idea was to confirm everything we were told by the owner—the vehicle was supposed to be in “perfect condition”—and make an offer. Then, we’d start the registration process in our name, bring the van to Paraguay to have it built out by a factory we’d visited and agreed on a quote with, and eventually ship it to Europe for the next chapter in our lives.

Since we couldn’t visit this Vario until Monday, we spent the weekend at a nice wild camping spot on a bluff in Navidad, with a pretty view over the ocean and good walks for Maya. Despite this being our favorite spot in a while, we didn’t return because of the strong onshore breezes, covering our camper with salt water. Since Mark had recently repainted our ladder and jacks, he didn’t want corrosion to return before the sale of our camper.

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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – November 2025 (Chile)

 

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In November, Mark, Maya, and I drove short distances to check out a couple of Vario vans in Central Chile and to run errands, but we mostly waited around in our home on wheels, Thirsty Bella, until her new owners showed up. And I made a “little side trip”!

Our expenses were all but usual, with some big hitters, namely my five-day birthday escape to Rapa Nui (Easter Island), buying two one-way flights from Santiago, Chile, to Boston, USA, and a pricey Airbnb for our last three weeks on the continent. I will share that final expense in the December 2025 report.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Therefore, the highest category in November was travel ($1,050), which accounted for those plane tickets to and from Rapa Nui ($566) for me and the one-way flights to the US for Mark and me ($484 – we used points for the other half of the cost).

Posing by a group of moai at the quarry site

A few weeks after booking our US plane tickets, the price dropped by $250, so we dealt with the headache, frustration, stress, and time sink of eventually receiving credit back and rebooking the same flights. Since these are airline points, they didn’t make this expense cheaper, but we now have extra credit for future flights. That’s how we stay busy!

The grocery category was average at $354. We started to finish off staples, knowing that we’d move out of Bella at the beginning of December. Meals were mostly planned around “getting rid” of stuff.

Finally, our car was not the priciest item of the month. Our drive to Pichilemu from the capital was the furthest we ventured and, of course, we had to return, run errands, and leave enough gasoline for the next owners.

We also spent $22 on Chilean tolls and $18 on a 24V Mercedes Vario OBD adapter that we never used. We have our own 12V scanner, but this didn’t fit into the console of the grey Vario, so we managed to order a 24V adapter for our scanner with the help of friendly locals to check the red Vario we planned to pursue but eventually never did. Unfortunately, it’s impossible for foreigners to order parts online on most websites due to not having a RUT (local identity number), a local credit card, and a local phone number.

The $240 entertainment price tag was mostly mine, apart from a cable car ride for our trio in Parque Metropolitano in Santiago on my birthday ($7). I also bought a discounted eBook written by an author friend ($1).

The national park pass on Easter Island went up from $75 to $102 right before I arrived, and I booked three tours with the rest of the money in this category. While initially appalled at the high entrance fee required to access most of the island, I thought it was all worth it in the end. I will post a separate blog about this magical experience.

Likewise, the close to $200 “we” paid for accommodation went to my four hostel nights in Hanga Roa, the capital of the island and its only town. It was expensive for what it was. I slept in a private room with a shared bathroom.

Trying to save money on my “little side trip,” I only ate out once for about $15. The rest of our dining out category went to glorious French food on my actual birthday and a few other restaurant meals, like a local lunch and take-out Chinese.

Almost all of our meals were prepared at home.

I was early this year with my Christmas gifts! As always, I created personalized photo calendars for my closest family members and managed to get these to them a month early, because I had time and our best group shots of 2025 had been collected already. Plus, I had no idea what December would bring…

At $64, our monthly Starlink subscription went up again with the Argentinian peso. Half of this amount is paid by us and the other half by our freelancing business. Because we failed to top up our propane tank in Argentina before crossing into Chile and we wanted to leave a full bottle for the new owners, we made the effort to get it filled at a professional outfit in Santiago. It was the most expensive, but the most efficient propane fill on the entire continent! Potable water top-ups were free as usual.

Since we had to empty our camper cabinets, including our alcohol stash, we only spent $40 on this category in November. No complaints here!

I had forgotten to incorporate transportation to and from the airports in my Easter Island trip budget, so I had to skimp in other areas (like dining out). I used an InDrive taxi ($14) to reach the international airport of Santiago when I left and a shared van ($10) upon my return.

Waiting for an hour at the airport to take a shared van back home

On the island itself, I walked the 30 minutes from the airport to my hostel (I only brought a small backpack as a free personal item) and lucked out with a free ride back from the owner because he needed to pick up paying guests at the small airport building before I left.

I wanted to buy a few small souvenirs ($16) on Rapa Nui, because it is such a special place, and Mark needed more allergy medicine and a fresh asthma inhaler ($6) while in Santiago. These made up the miscellaneous category.

The drinking out category shows zero, because the only time we enjoyed a few cocktails at a restaurant was on my birthday and they were covered by my best friend Rosie. Thank you!

We boondocked (wild camped for free) the entire month and didn’t spend money on laundry, because I did a few loads by hand in the beginning of November and we saved the dirty clothes and linen from the second half of the month to wash at our Airbnb, which came with a machine.

And that almost concludes 2025. It was a very expensive month, but if you consider that $1,068 of our total of $2,487 went to my five-day vacation on Easter Island and another $484 was spent on plane tickets, November was actually quite cheap at just $935 of normal living expenses. We shall see what the future brings…

November 2025 Overview:

Travel (plane tickets to Easter Island and Boston, MA):

Groceries:

Car  (fuel: $237; tolls: $22; Vario part: $18):

Entertainment:

Accommodation:

Dining out:

Gifts:

Utilities (Internet: $32; propane: $30):

Alcohol:

Transportation (airport taxis Liesbet):

Miscellaneous (souvenirs):

Medical:

Drinking out:

Laundry:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$1,050

$354

$278

$240

$198

$150

$69

$62

$40

$24

$16

$6

$0

$0

$0

———

$ 2,487

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Our last month of Chilean and South American travels in Thirsty Bella!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Homeless at Fifty – Our Truck Camper, Thirsty Bella, Has Sold!

It is official, our home on wheels for three-and-a-half years (three of which in South America) has been sold to a Dutch couple, ready for their own adventures on this continent.

Old and new owners of the Cow Camper

About five weeks ago, they contacted us after seeing the paid ad for our camper on an international website for overlanding rigs. It turned out to be the best $40 we spent this year!

Max and Marjolein had been looking for the perfect camper in which to travel the world after quitting their successful careers. When they spotted Bella on the Expedition Meister platform, they knew it was meant to be. They love cows!

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

A two-hour video call in Pichilemu followed and – to our surprise – by the end of that virtual tour they made us an offer and we accepted. After waiting for a buyer for three months, things turned positive and imminent all of a sudden. They paid a deposit to hold the camper for them (we did have another interested party soon after) and excitedly updated us of their prep and plans to come to South America for the foreseeable future.

For us, those last five weeks were a waiting, researching, preparing, planning, pursuing local Vario vans, fixing, packing, cleaning, and stressing game.

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Our Crazy Mercedes Vario Idea in Chile – A Waste of Time?

Warning: This is a summarized yet long story about what we have really been doing the last four months.

I’m trying to remember when this crazy idea first emerged. At least six months ago, Mark was researching campers in Europe, since we thought/think this will be our new overlanding location. He must have stumbled upon a Mercedes Vario campervan, thought it looked cool and roomy, remembered our German friends Sabine and Michael having one, and focused his research on the 4×4 kind, only to discover that in Europe you need a special driver’s license for this “more truck than van” vehicle, prices wavered around a steep US$100,000, and there are many rules regarding registration, yearly inspections, insurance, and so on.

Driver’s side view of a Vario

It seemed like the Vario idea dead-ended right there. But on June 3rd (I checked my diary), an available 4×4 Vario appeared on the South America Overlanding Facebook page. There were only two problems: it was for sale in Peru with Peruvian plates and it was not converted yet. We inquired at a shop in Uruguay — the only place in South America we knew about — about how much it would cost to build out a van. More research followed and from the moment we realized that a vehicle can only leave Peru if it is owned by a Peruvian resident and that a new build would cost close to US$90,000, the idea was discarded again.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Fast forward to sometime in August when Mark discovered that Chile had imported hundreds of 4WD Vario vans from Europe to use in the mines as passenger transportation vehicles. Another problem arose: these vans had been well used and came with a bus door instead of a passenger door. Replacing that with an RV door would prove almost impossible, let alone dealing with the paperwork, the language, and other crazy logistics.

Soon after, Mark had a revelation. For months, he’d known about a Vario van that had been built out by a Chilean and had been for sale for a couple of years. It was located along the Chilean coast, four hours south of Santiago, but he hadn’t been interested because the camper section was poorly built and unattractive.

His revelation was this: it had a normal door and two seats in the cab, it was already registered as a camper (as opposed to a company vehicle), and becoming the owner of a new vehicle in Chile was straightforward and popular. It’s why many new overlanders buy a car or camper in Santiago to start their South American overland travels. Why not buy this crappy camper, gut it, and rebuild the living space from scratch?

Passenger side view of the Pichilemu Vario camper – with a normal door

By then, we had found out that there was a company in Santiago — Suzie Santiago CTW — that built out vans for a much better rate — but inferior quality — than the expensive shop in Uruguay. More research and communications followed with companies regarding the build and the paperwork. So many months of work and focus went into this pursuit! It’s pretty much all we did during our five weeks in Paraguay. We even drew up the perfect layout. Fun!

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A Whirlwind Drive through Argentina 

In the middle of September, Mark, Maya, and I returned to Paraguay without a deadline. We would use this landlocked country as a base during the spring until it turned unbearably hot or until we found a buyer for our camper. Neither had happened when we decided to leave.

Yes, two days each week were miserably hot, but it was still manageable. No buyer had appeared, but we felt Chile would be a better location for any prospective buyer to start their journey on this continent. The other reason we changed countries has to do with a concept that’s been emerging over the last few months. I can’t elaborate on that (yet) since all our attempts to reach this goal have been failing so far. But, if you’ve read our previous expense report “between the lines,” you might have gotten a hint about this idea.

Leaving Paraguay at night

Once we decided to head back to Chile — on the opposite side of the continent — we felt an urge to do this as quickly as possible. Like I mentioned in a previous blog: first, we wanted to eat sushi one more time. Over dinner, skipping an alcoholic drink, we decided to cross the border into Argentina that very same evening. We knew of a good camp spot in Posadas on the other side and hoped for a quick and easy crossing that late in the day. It was the middle of October.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Border officials were friendly, passports were checked, our Paraguayan TIP (temporary import permit) for the truck was returned and an Argentinian one obtained, and we had to back out of a narrow lane, because no height limit was indicated for a low arch up ahead…

Then, just when we thought all was fine and nobody had asked about Maya, we were told to exit the car and our camper was scanned by a massive machine! It was loud and intimidating.

Afterwards, the official stepped out of the giant scanner with our paperwork with only one question: “Do you have a dog?” Our “yes” was answered with only a nod. There’s no hiding from this futuristic machine! Luckily, people had told us earlier that nobody checks dog paperwork at this particular post.

After one short night in Posadas, we hit the road in an attempt to spend as little time as possible in Argentina. There are a few reasons why we don’t like this country, but I won’t get into that now. Our first day was productive, despite the rain and the mix of road conditions with smooth pavement in the morning and uneven patches, dips, grooves, and bumps in the afternoon. We ended up at a familiar camp spot but had to navigate slippery mud to get there.

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Returning to Paraguay – The Interlude

This is more of a status update than an exciting blog post…

When we discovered that I couldn’t get a 90-day extension to stay the full six months in Brazil as a Belgian—hoping we’d sell our camper by then—we needed a new plan. The closest border was Paraguay. Having great memories from our previous visit, we decided to make it our South American base for a while, at least until the heat chased us off or a buyer popped up for Bella.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Tacuru Pucu, Hernandarias

After crossing the border in hectic Ciudad del Este on September 11, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the free Tacuru Pucu campground, managed by the Itaipu Dam organization. Just like five months earlier, we stayed the allowed 14 days, but the grounds and facilities had deteriorated further.

Some of the electricity and water hookups were broken, the WiFi worked intermittently, and none of the hot showers functioned anymore. Most days, it was hot enough to shower with cold water anyway—or we could use our own shower and refill the tank with potable water. Maya was only allowed in a restricted area, so long walks were out of the question.

Despite the bugs and the heat, we enjoyed a much-needed break. Our favorite amenity remained the covered palapa, where we could do hand laundry, eat at the picnic table, chat with new and familiar faces (including Larry, who stopped by briefly), and swing in our hammock. I even started reading a book again!

Those two weeks filled up fast with cleaning nearly everything in and on the camper, cooking delicious meals, writing, catching up on Brazil blog posts, and setting up a new computer after more files got corrupted on my ancient laptop. Now, I’m getting used to two new-to-me devices.

I also gave my published book some long-overdue attention and started experimenting with a virtual audiobook. After a few chapters, I abandoned the idea—Amazon’s beta version wasn’t ready for prime time. Meanwhile, Mark repaired our water pump after an entertaining ride to the free zone with a Colombian, a Cuban, and a Paraguayan.

Nights were restless. Each blistering, humid day seemed to culminate in a violent storm, leaving us with a couple of chilly mornings before the heat built again. Maya was terrified of the thunder and lightning, and fireworks or gunfire from a nearby military base didn’t help either.

Mark was sick for a few days as well; a bummer. When it was too hot to do anything but sit in the shade of our palapa, we fantasized and talked about the next chapter in our lives, after our camper sells.

Ñacunday Falls

On our way to Hohenau to revisit Manantial Campground, we stopped for a night at Ñacunday Falls. Reaching the campsite deep in the jungle required trimming branches, brushing past foliage, and careful maneuvering to get level, but the peace was worth it.

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Four Final Destinations & Highlights in Brazil – Buzios, Arraial do Cabo, Ouro Preto, and Tiradentes

When we left Rio de Janeiro, the idea was to meander up the coast and eventually make it to the state of Bahia to reconsider our route and plans.

Since our camper is for sale, we had to be flexible. The issue with Brazil is that it is huge! And because, as Americans in an American vehicle, Venezuela is off limits for safety reasons, we couldn’t drive the northern loop back to Colombia. This meant that wherever we drove in Brazil, we would have to backtrack that distance south in order to leave. There are no (decent) roads in the Amazon.

Brazil in South America

Since Niteroi didn’t work out for us, we needed a plan B, namely driving north to Cabo Frio and camping there. We had a horrible day on the road with tons of (unmarked and camouflaged) speed bumps, narrow and busy lanes, hot weather, and three potential camp spots that didn’t work out, because of new rules against campers or the wind being too strong, whipping up seawater.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

São Pedro da Aldeia

Eventually, we settled in a quiet waterfront suburb of São Pedro da Aldeia, on the south side of the giant saltwater lagoon. The wind was less strong, the people were friendly, and our backyard was grassy with palm trees and nice views.

Despite being parked close to the dirt road with through traffic, we enjoyed our stay and walks with Maya and even returned from Cabo Frio once the wind picked up again.

Cabo Frio

Close-up Cabo Frio

We had hoped for a pleasant week of beach camping in Cabo Frio, but it was not meant to be. This area is notorious for its strong winds. The three of us did manage to snatch a few nights and our new Australian friend Larry joined us. We’d seen him in Rio as well, but due to my work assignment we hadn’t had time to hang out with him.

In Cabo Frio, we went for beach walks and a stroll into the dunes. Across from our parking spot was a small freshwater lagoon, which was perfect for doggie rinse-offs after sandy and salty outings. The weather was heating up a lot.

Arraial do Cabo

The four of us (including Maya) organized an Uber from Cabo Frio to the most popular and stunning beach of Arraial do Cabo. Except, the driver could only drop us off 4km away from the praia – only authorized cabs and vehicles were allowed past this point – so we faced a steep, hot, and sweaty walk to cross the hills towards the beach.

Once there, a refreshing dip in the icy waters followed for me and Maya, who seemed to be tolerated on leash, despite the information we had read beforehand about dogs not being allowed on the sand and in the water.

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Rio de Janeiro – The Vibrant Heart of Brazil

In our lifestyle, flexibility is key. I’ve often mentioned that Mark and I both work while traveling the world as nomads—a routine we’ve maintained for over 20 years. Usually, as freelancers, we have a fluid schedule and can adjust our work around the demands and challenges of daily life. But every couple of years, a massive translation project lands in my inbox, forcing us to make solid changes to our plans in exchange for a welcome chunk of income. That’s exactly how we ended up in Rio de Janeiro earlier than planned.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

When Mark returned from his three-week annual visit to the US at the end of July (while Maya and I held down the fort at a campground), we were eager to meander along Brazil’s famously beautiful coastline, wild camping along the way. That plan lasted two weeks—until the translation assignment arrived. Soon enough, we were parked in the driveway of Fritz House, the property of a Brazilian man of German descent who welcomes overlanders for a fee. His setup included WiFi, water, electricity, toilets, and showers.

Since I had already started the two-week project en route, we ended up staying 11 nights at Fritz House. I worked full-time while Mark tackled camper projects like repainting our ladder and four electric jacks. We also did laundry that had to line-dry and cleaned the water tanks with bleach.

First Glimpse of Rio

During our stay, we hitched a ride with a tour guide friend for our first look at Rio’s famous beaches. To our pleasant surprise, dogs were welcome. We started at the “fancier” Ipanema Beach, framed by an impressive rock on one side (which technically overlooks Leblon Beach) and a scenic peninsula on the other, where we stumbled upon a professional photo shoot.

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The Brazilian Coast – Driving North from Bertioga to Rio de Janeiro

Our coastal route from Bertioga to Rio

Bertioga

On July 7th, 2025, Mark took a cab to São Paulo’s airport for his annual visit to Massachusetts, our official state of residence in the US. For almost three weeks, he visited doctors, family, and friends, while Maya and I stayed at the Jorai Campground in Bertioga.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

My illusion of a three-week beach vacation—just my dog and me—quickly evaporated. The weather was chilly and rainy, the environment basic, I had to be extremely careful with our fresh water since Bertioga’s city water isn’t potable, ultralights took off multiple times a day creating frequent noise, and paid work arrived almost daily.

Still, I made the best of it and settled into a routine: morning exercises, laundry, shopping, cleaning, working, long beach walks with Maya, chatting with my fellow UK camper, hot showers, cooking and cleaning, nightly phone calls with Mark, and catching up on writing, Portuguese practice, and online interactions. I also prepped the camper and took photos for our upcoming “camper for sale” ad.

Mark eventually returned with a clean bill of health (yay!), and the three of us looked forward to driving north along the coast while checking out Brazil’s sights and beaches. A slower pace awaited—or so we thought.

Jureia Beach

Before leaving Bertioga, we washed the car. Near Jureia, we filled the tanks with fresh water and settled in at our favorite beach spot. We repaired a few things with parts Mark had brought back from the US and enjoyed slower days.

A storm soon swept through, toppling trees and wires across the pretty neighborhood, cutting off electricity and internet. Sometimes it’s good to be self-contained!

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