While we were camped at a peaceful lake in Central Chile, snow was predicted in the mountains, where the border stations are located. Since Maya’s international health permit was expiring soon, we needed to prevent getting stuck because of road or frontier closures. So, at the end of March, Mark, Maya, and I left Chile with no intention to return. Unless we decide to sell our truck camper in Santiago, its capital, whenever we are done with this adventure.
Loncopué
Entering Argentina for the last time was smooth, but involved a lot of bumpy roads and disappointing campsite hunts for one reason or another; the strong winds, incessant traffic noise, and an anxious Maya being the main culprits. We encountered countless sleepless nights on our drive north.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
When we moved to a different town and found a relatively peaceful, wind-protected, and grassy spot among the herds and shepherds moving their animals from their summer grounds in the Andes Mountains to the winter valleys and farms, we felt better. It was cool to be a part of “the pack.”
Here are two videos to get a better feel of the camping scene:
Caviahue
Then, it was time for an unexpected highlight in Argentina. Caviahue contained a few attractions based on our resources, but it was located at an even higher elevation, meaning it would freeze at night. Since this causes condensation and discomfort issues, we wanted to keep our time there to a minimum and managed to complete all our excursions within 24 hours.
First, we drove to this fascinating, beautiful, and diverse area and hiked along a clear lake to a stone bridge. Erosion had impacted the volcanic rock here, creating this natural arch.
Then, we reached and admired patches of monkey puzzle trees. Also called Araucaria (or Pehuen in the local language), it is the national tree of Chile and of the Argentinian province, Neuquén, where we found ourselves.
Our little group followed a well-maintained trail past multiple waterfalls and through the monkey puzzle tree forests. We ate lunch by the largest of the falls and watched in amazement how shepherds and their goats navigated the river just above the falls.
We had read it was possible to continue walking upriver. In the absence of a path, we followed goat trials and clambered over boulders to get to our final waterfall, which we had to ourselves.
A short drive brought us to another trail, climbing up and around a natural wall of rock. We observed more monkey puzzle trees and eventually reached a hidden lagoon, Laguna Escondida, where peace fell over us. Since we didn’t have that much time left in the day, we had to keep moving.
We descended along the same trail and drove deeper into the mountains to find a geothermal area at the base of pretty, snow-capped Volcano Copahue.
We left Maya in the car for our explorations here and gazed at the bubble pools, mud holes, and steaming fumeroles. An incredible area!
While there were many feasible places to camp in this natural playground, we decided to push towards our intended highlight, the Agrio waterfall, arriving by 6pm, just before dark. We knew morning light on a sunny day was the best time to visit this attraction, but we couldn’t help sneaking a peek before the sun set. Indeed, the lighting was terrible.
Because we spent the night here, we could indulge in long, enjoyable views – and photo shoots – in the morning. Since the days are getting shorter, the best time for photography in this area was between 10am and 11am. As you can see in the photos, the shadows were already starting to grow by noon.
Still, we had planned our visit around a sunny day (very important) and were really impressed with this site, taking in the different lighting. I can honestly say that this is one of the prettiest waterfalls I have ever seen. Mark agrees.
After taking our time admiring Salto del Agrio, we left this region and the mountains, heading north towards Mendoza. But first, we needed to bounce on washboard roads for another day. Running the heater so much at night and having managed a month with half a tank of propane, we needed a refill as well, which worked out in Chos Malal, at a much better price than Bariloche.
Sleepless nights along the “highway” and two days of driving followed. Ruta 40 was mostly paved, but there was a two-hour stretch that rattled us into frustration. By now, Mark and I (and Maya) had had it with gravel roads on which we averaged ten miles per hour (15km/h). We needed a break. With good asphalt and fun times. Luckily for us, this was in the cards. Well, we’d planned for it. 🙂
Pareditas
After a day of errands, we reached a cloudy, chilly, and quiet area by a river, about 85 miles (130km) south of Mendoza. Here, we met up with our US friends, Heather and Jon from VermonsterRV. Coincidentally, about a year ago, we’d reunited in the same general area. This meant we’d already explored the interesting sites together in May 2024 and were at a bit of a loss as where to go and stay for our week together, before parting ways in Mendoza.
Since being in their company was the main goal, it didn’t really matter where we’d camp as long as it was comfortable enough and they could go for long hikes. We stayed in Pareditas for a few nights, to chat, share awesome meals and wine, and explore the area on foot. But it was still frigid, during the day and night. The mountains offer peace and solitude, but sleeping required a heater.
Manzano Historico
The five of us returned to Manzano Historico, with a stop at the park and ice cream shop of Tunuyán.
Ice cream in Tunuyán
While eerily quiet and covered in snow, a year ago, the relaxed village of Manzano Historico was booming with local tourists when we drove through again, now on a Sunday. After some trial and error, we found a relatively quiet and private wild camping spot for the next few days.
Here, we repeated our entertaining happy hours, laughs, chats, walks, and shared cooking abilities. Mark and I managed to get work done, when our friends set off on extended hikes. It was so nice to hang out with like-minded adventurers who have been on a similar path than us, sailing and camping, in the last two decades.
On the day we drove to Maipu, we stopped at our favorite winery on this continent. Last year, we had recommended Giaquinta in Tupungato to our friends and it became their preferred wine as well, so we had to swing by and “stock up” again. Prices had doubled in a year, but it was still worth it.
Maipu
Other friends of ours recently bought property in Maipu, Argentina, work there now, and are preparing to run a campground. They’d asked us to “house sit” for five days in April, so they could go camping with family from Switzerland. Mark and I agreed to help out and take advantage of that time to use the comforts of a home and yard, namely to do laundry, wash the truck and camper, perform another oil change, work in peace, and take pressurized hot showers.
Since this family were mutual friends, Mark, Maya, Heather, Jon, and I first stopped by for a short visit, providing meat, side dishes, and wine. Our host grilled the food as an asado, Argentinian style.
Mendoza
Mark, Maya, and I spent a weekend at San Martin Park in Mendoza, a place we really enjoy walking around in with our dog. It’s big, grassy, and diverse, but – like last year – we didn’t sleep well because of the commotion of cars racing each other on the park lanes and loud, muffler-less motorcycles cruising by all night long. Some vehicles honked at our camper for good measure. That – and our favorite bakery being closed – had us leave Mendoza sooner than expected.
Alone again, in San Martin Park, Mendoza
Back to Maipu
Unfortunately, the “property sit” for our European friends didn’t work out in the end, so we changed plans and did all our camper and truck errands at a nearby campground instead. That’s where we said our goodbyes to Jon and Heather as well. We hope to see them again, on this continent, later this year.
One highlight of our time together was a fancy meal at a Michelin-star restaurant. Yes, it was very pricy (see my upcoming expense report for April), but it was an interesting, tasty, fun, and unique experience. And the perfect conclusion to our social times with good friends.
After one last stock up, Mark, Maya, and I headed northeast in Argentina and started what felt like a new chapter.
Family portrait with Agrio Waterfall
A little, yet incredible, side story
One night, Jon, Heather, Mark, and I were talking about a mutual sailing friend of ours, Axel from Germany who lives in Auckland, New Zealand, with his Kiwi wife and family. Some readers might remember him from my book, Plunge. He was the photographer at our wedding party in St. Martin, he generously gifted us his spinnaker sail before we entered the Pacific Ocean, and we visited him in New Zealand, which led to us eventually quitting our sailing life on Irie.
Mark and I were also line handlers on his boat, when he crossed the Panama Canal. And here is where things got interesting. Heather said: “We were tied up to Axel’s boat in the Panama Canal.” Me: “Wait a minute, we were ON Axel’s boat in the Panama Canal!” Could it be that we actually traveled next to each other going through the locks, that many years ago?
I couldn’t wait to get on my computer and dig around my photo archive of “Panama Canal Crossing on Gudrun” (Axel’s sailboat) in 2012. Sure enough… There they were… Heather and Jon, line handling on the boat in the middle, tied up to Gudrun and going through the Canal with us. We could have met thirteen years ago!!! How crazy is this? They became friends with Axel in Panama City after completing their own Panama Canal crossing. Mark and I would go through on our sailing catamaran, Irie, a year later.
Next up: Our monthly expense report for April 2025
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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April 28, 2025 at 16:25
I’m glad you can often find like-minded adventurers on your travels.
Also you mentioned perhaps selling the “Moo” beastie when you finish your journey. Now, I’m wondering about your itinerary and when you anticipate finishing. Just curious. 😀
April 29, 2025 at 09:04
Hi Marian,
Meeting like-minded people “often” is a relative term, haha. It’s great to reunite with old friends, but, on average (believe it or not), we encounter one new couple a year that we really click with and find connectivity. Yes, we do meet more travelers, but the “spark” is rarely there.
Yes, we are thinking about what’s next for the three of us. Europe? We’ve always planned on selling our camper down here, since we don’t want to go through the stress and cost of shipping it elsewhere again. As for timing, let’s say that we hope to leave this continent within 6-12 months. Mark goes to the US for a quick (medical and family) visit this summer, from Brazil, and when he returns the end of July, we shall consider a route and what’s next.
As of now, we are thinking of selling Thirsty Bella in Colombia or Ecuador, ideally to another traveler as we can’t import the rig. That is cost prohibitive.
April 28, 2025 at 19:26
Snow in Chile—I guess that joke would be too obvious.🤣 Speaking of which, you find some of the COOLEST spots to visit. I know that’s not by accident because of all your research. Still living vicariously through you, realizing I probably will never make it to Argentina.
April 29, 2025 at 09:09
Oh Pete, you have no idea how many times Mark and I uttered how “chilly it is in Chile”. 🙂
All the borders between Argentina and Chile are located at a pass in the Andes, so they are closed parts of the year when the snow and ice build up too much. Crazy, really, that you can’t plan on a border crossing or moving from point A to B. We’ve had quite a few friends who planned to fly out of Santiago to their home country (tickets are cheapest from there), but got stuck on the Argentinian side of the border to then have to store their rig in that country and buy a connecting flight from Mendoza!
I’m glad you’re still enjoying our posts, photos, and adventures. Yes, a lot of research and time goes into figuring out our routes, sites, and camping spots. It’s part of the lifestyle, but it can get old when it gets up to an hour a day. Now that we have a general direction again, this process is easier and faster again.
April 28, 2025 at 19:50
That waterfall is beautiful! It is so nice that you are able to meet up with friends along the way… and that was a pretty coincidental almost meet in Panama. I’m glad you gave yourselves permission to have an expensive meal. It’s nice to indulge now and then.
April 29, 2025 at 09:13
Hi Janis,
Waiting for the right weather to see certain sites can be tedious, but when we then admire those places in bright sunshine and can take gorgeous photos, it feels worthwhile. Of course, we only have so much time and patience, haha.
We still can’t believe that “missed opportunity” of befriending Heather and Jon in 2012. Truly a crazy coincidence. It was obviously meant to be that we’d eventually meet them. 🙂
Oh, it was a giant indulgence to go to the fancy restaurant. Probably a once-in-a-lifetime Michelin experience. We better not think about what else we could have done with that $300!
April 29, 2025 at 00:56
Hi, Liesbet – That volcanic landscape near Copahue is absolutely stunning. You really bring the rugged beauty (and challenges) of overlanding to life. Safe travels to the three of you as you head north. <3
April 29, 2025 at 09:20
Hi Donna,
We had such a perfect day, combining all those sights in bright sunshine in Copahue. It did end with a migraine for me, as expected (too much hiking and exertion), but it was worth it. Thanks for the travel wishes. We have finally reached sunshine, warm weather, and blue skies!
April 29, 2025 at 10:14
The small waterfall is gorgeous. I have one in my upcoming book and you’ve given me a good image of what it would look like (the mountain behind fits, also). My daughter crossed through the Panama Canal, too, but it might have been 2010. How amazing is that.
April 30, 2025 at 14:09
Hi Jacqui,
I seem to remember your daughter crossing the canal at some point. I assume it was with the Navy?
So cool to feature a waterfall in your next book. My guess is the climate is much warmer for your characters than for us in the mountains of Argentina. They might actually swim and use the water from the falls and the stream for multiple purposes. I don’t think anybody lived on the now South American continent during the period of your last trilogy.
April 29, 2025 at 12:23
All beautiful, but I liked the geothermal area and that lovely waterfall pouring into the pool best. And what a coincidence about your friends! Even better that you had the evidence to be 100% sure you were right.
April 30, 2025 at 14:13
Hi Anabel,
The four of us still can’t fathom that we could have met thirteen years ago in Panama. And, yes, finding their faces in my photo archive was thrilling! I guess taking a lot of photos does come in handy at times. Just like I use my diaries (which took thousands of hours to create) as reference for things we forgot as well. 🙂
April 30, 2025 at 14:50
I find my blog very handy for that too!
May 1, 2025 at 12:48
Yes! A blog creates a good archive for memories and experiences as well!
April 29, 2025 at 13:32
Wow, that is some spectacular scenery! The roads sound horrid, but at least you had a few nice places to balance it out. And what an amazing “small world” experience to find out that your future friends were right beside you all those years ago! Funny how things work out… 🙂
April 30, 2025 at 14:15
Hi Diane,
You are right. Sometimes it’s worth to make those frustrating detours. In this case, it surely was. The area became a highlight of this trip. Realistically, though, those experiences and discoveries don’t happen a lot! And it sure is funny – and a tad crazy – how this coincidence with our friends worked out. One of those “I can’t believe this” moments. 🙂
April 29, 2025 at 14:23
This is the first I have heard of your idea of selling your truck. What?!?!?!?!?!? The monkey puzzle tree forests in Caviahue is beautiful!! Love the waterfalls, especially the Agrio waterfall. Great photos!!!!!!! Laguna Escondida sounds like a great place. Fun story about Heather and Jon back in 2012. Small world! Again thanks for sharing. Jim
April 30, 2025 at 14:20
Hi Jim,
Thanks for swinging by again and leaving a comment. I’m glad you enjoyed the photo series. This blog had a couple of highlight moments and sights!
About the truck camper – Our shipping experience from Texas to Colombia was so stressful, time consuming, and expensive that we do not ever want to repeat that. Since this rig is not our “forever” camper or we built it ourselves (like many of our overlanding friends), we only have limited attachments to it.
Mark and I have been planning to sell our set-up here since the moment we arrived. Well, since the moment we picked up our camper at the port. The question was always when, how, and where. So, we are still convinced selling it here is the best plan of action. And, whichever traveler ends up buying our rig, will be totally set up for a new adventure as it will have everything to explore this continent extensively and to boondock for up to two weeks. 🙂
April 29, 2025 at 16:52
Like you and everyone else who’s reading, I like that waterfall a lot! Wild story about seeing your friends so many years ago; I love small-world stories like that.
April 30, 2025 at 14:23
Hi Lexie,
That waterfall was something else. Not sure what it is, but the complete picture (and actual sight) looked perfect. The colors, the setting, the blue sky. I’m glad we planned around the weather for that one.
It is an incredible story about being so close to our “to be friends” that long ago. I’m glad you liked that story. It’s a peculiar and cool one.
May 5, 2025 at 06:13
No, I can’t believe you are talking about your adventure coming to end? Selling Thirty Bella? And snow, this early in the season? Although I guess it was a high altitude.
The waterfall is spectacular, Liesbet. But how cold was the water? It does look refreshing. And I love those UFO clouds.
Glad you also treated yourselves to a Michelin Star meal. But sorry the nights are proving more challenging than the days with all the noise. I’d love to know why people honk their car horns as they pass.
May 5, 2025 at 10:57
Hi Hugh,
While this current adventure might come to an end in about 6-12 months, that doesn’t mean our adventurous lives as nomads come to an end.
Mark and I (with different dogs) have been traveling continuously without a home base for over twenty years now. This time with this camper in South America is only a three-year part of that. In total, we’ve had two sailboats and four campers together (and I lived in another truck camper when I met him). So, the idea is to sell Thirsty Bella in South America as it’s too expensive and stressful to ship it elsewhere again and continue the journey on another continent with a different home on wheels that is more suitable to that particular trip. 🙂
Regarding the snow, winter is approaching here in the southern hemisphere, so once fall sets in at high altitude, snow becomes common (and a nuisance for us).
The water of that waterfall must have been cold, in this mountainous area, if my checking rivers and lakes nearby has any indication. We couldn’t make it down to the pool of this one. Those UFO clouds are crazy right? I’ve posted about them on Facebook in the past. Very cool looking! They have something to do with the air and pressure above the nearby mountains.
Whenever people honk their horns at us at night – which, luckily, doesn’t happen that often – we think they don’t like campers in their city and they are being obnoxious about it. Or, they’re drunk.
May 6, 2025 at 05:44
Ahh, right, about the honkers, although I do see people doing it on TV when they are passing a news camera or somebody being interviewed. It’s a little like those folk who have to make a funny face when passing a TV camera.
Thanks for all the info about the snow and UFO clouds and the reasons for selling Thirty Bella. She’s become a big part of our lives too. I’ll be sorry when she leaves the story.
May 6, 2025 at 10:41
Hi Hugh!
Oh, that statement about Thirsty Bella being a part of your lives touched my heart and made me smile. Whatever vehicle we end up living in next might be special as well. 🙂
We thought about you when we went out to a Michelin star restaurant last month, by the way. xox
May 8, 2025 at 13:20
Beautiful scenery and waterfalls, Liesbet. Such a wonderful coincidence that you and your friends met years ago without knowing each other then.
May 12, 2025 at 15:43
Hi Natalie,
We are still baffled by that coincidence about being a boat width away from our now dear friends, thirteen years ago! It is strange and crazy. We were meant to meet then, probably! 🙂
That area in Argentina with the waterfall and volcanic activity is one of my favorites of that country. We will most likely skip the Argentinian side of Iguazu Falls, due to their cost, policies, and our principles about the whole thing. We do plan to visit the Brazilian side.
May 10, 2025 at 14:37
What beautiful scenery. I think that is the prettiest waterfall you’ve seen. Great pictures!
I want to camp with the herd! Your spot by the lake looks relaxing. What does Maya think of the livestock?
What fun to realize the close encounter you had with your friends when you were both sailing!
May 12, 2025 at 15:54
Hi Duwan,
There is one other waterfall in the Marquesas that comes close to being as pretty. The one in Argentina looks more stunning, but the one in French Polynesia was more tropical and we swam underneath it. 🙂
Maya and livestock. Mmmm. Usually, she’s indifferent to the cows, sheep, and goats. Horses worry her a bit since she was once attacked by one in Ecuador. Once, however, when we were on a walk with our friends and she was off leash, she took off into the bushes and started herding a group of goats! This was … interesting. We do have to watch her with babies and don’t trust her being close to them.
This was such an insane realization that we could have met Heather and Jon thirteen years ago. Plus, it was funny that neither of us were on our own boats during this “encounter”. All four of us were line handling on the sailboats of friends.