I’m running a little behind with my Baja blogs. Sorry! Blame my lack of internet. Or, just blame me. I haven’t felt like sitting behind my computer lately, or scanning thousands of new photos. I’ll get there. When time and WiFi availability allow. Soon. 😊
Who wants to sit inside, behind a computer, when this view can be had while relaxing outside?
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read the captions. My images are heavily resized for easier downloading and uploading; I apologize for their inferior quality.)
From West to East
The Baja California peninsula is relatively narrow, so it doesn’t take long to get from one side to the other. Mex 1 is the main “highway” in this part of Mexico. It predominantly runs along the coasts with a few zigzags back and forth. After our stop in Guerrero Negro, where I left off in a previous post,Zesty transported us through the narrow middle, past desolate landscapes, cacti, dry terrain, barren hills, and small settlements.
Many times, we are passed by cars and trucks who cross the solid yellow line. I waited for an incident right at the “no passing” sign…
Heading towards the east coast of Baja again – nobody cares about the “no passing” yellow line…
Approaching one of the military checkpoints, with a volcano in the background
We decided to stop in the oasis of San Ignacio, a lush and tropical reprieve from the desert that is Baja California. The town is exceptionally clean and well taken care of. Highlights are the town square and the mission, Misión San Ignacio Kadakaamán, which was founded by the Jesuit missionary Juan Bautista de Luyando in 1728.
Mission San Ignacio
The door was locked, but looked pretty cool!
View of downtown, seen from the mission
Downtown San Ignacio
Around the square
One of the restaurants around the town square
Walking back to the campground, five minutes from downtown, we often met roaming horses.
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits.Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.
Approaching Bahia Concepcion
The entire month of February, Mark, Maya, and I lived and traveled in Zesty in Baja California, Mexico. In general, life is cheaper south of the border, with the big exception of fuel. Even though we drive a campervan – some might call it an RV – we get 23 miles to the gallon. This is awesome fuel economy, especially compared to the 16mpg in our truck camper, fifteen years ago, and to most other campers. Back in Arizona, diesel was cheap ($2.20/gallon), which meant we spent about $1 for every ten miles we drove. Here in Mexico, we pay double that ($4.50/gallon)!
Fuel station in Loreto
Out of fuel!
Another bigger-than-normal expense was the gift category. Mark had a special birthday on March 1st, but his main “present” was bought in February. More about that later. We also bought tourist cards upon entering the country.
Our camping/accommodation category is usually zero. In Mexico, we decided to take things a bit easier and more comfortable while at the same time supporting local businesses that are hit hard due to the pandemic. For the same reasons, we savored plenty of take-out and outdoor meals. We love street tacos, especially the fish ones!
Our favorite taco restaurant (so far) in Mulege
Street tacos on a bench in Mulege
The utilities category is also higher than other months, because we are paying for two data plans: the one from the US (which we are not using at all right now) and our Amigo plan (8GB for $25) in Mexico, which comes in handy around towns. Staying at official campgrounds has allowed us to be frustrated with take advantage of intermittent WiFi. We are filling our fresh water tank up with agua purificada from water-dispensing stores, so we can keep drinking it instead of buying and refilling 5-gallon jugs. Doing the dishes and showering with “pure” water does feel a tad luxurious!
Camped at a rocky beach in Baja California “Norte” – Papa Fernandez
Lush campground in San Ignacio
Sunrise along Bahia Concepcion
Lush campground – Huerta Don Chano – in Mulege
February was a month of few expense categories and enjoying a quiet, basic lifestyle. This is reflected in our less-than-average total, despite the extra money for certain conveniences. I am a bit behind with my blog posts and – certainly – with my blog reading and commenting, but I happily blame the lack of internet for that, which has been blissful! 🙂
Laundry day in Mulege
This campground only has a (cold) washing machine, no dryer.
To see how our friends Duwan and Greg made out in February, click here.
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
Mark and I had been playing around with the idea of going to Baja California, Mexico, during the winter since the fall of 2020. But as long as I needed reliable internet every day (first to publish my book, then to promote it, on top of other jobs and blogging commitments), crossing the border was not going to happen.
As January approached and we found ourselves in an uninspiring, windy California desert that turned even more chilly from the moment the sun set (before 5pm), the desire to find warmer weather grew. Don’t forget our home measures only 80sq feet, so being able to live outside is a requirement. Whenever my live webinar/presentation for the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) was delivered, we would leave the US for a chunk of time.
Except, the day after my “performance,” rumor had it that the border officials in Mexicali were cranking down on non-essential travel into their municipality. Would they turn us back if we crossed there, even when only driving through? We didn’t want to lie about our reason for visiting (saying that we were going to Mexico for dental work for example), besides, I’d just been to the dentist.
So we changed our plans, added a few more days to prepping our crossing, which now included an extra drive back east to a different border town after doing laundry, washing Zesty, and stocking up the van in Yuma, AZ, instead of El Centro, CA.
The interior of Baja California seen from the interior of Zesty
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read the captions. My photos are heavily resized for easier loading of the page.)
People who have been following my blog the last six months (and longer) know that I have been extremely busy with a personal project that finally came to fruition the end of November. This doesn’t mean the work is finished, as December and January still had me glued to the computer to promote my travel memoir, Plunge. The question is: did we have any fun throughout the focus and dedication towards my book?
(As always, hover over photos or click on them to read captions. My photos are heavily resized, so I can easily upload them and so this page loads with weaker internet connections.)
Before arriving in Tucson, we stopped for the night at Wilcox Lagoons, AZ.
Sunset at Wilcox Lagoons
I have offered glimpses of that in previous posts, expense reports, and writing updates, but I have left a lot out as well. It is my intention to fill in the gaps today. Since my memory is nothing to boast about, I will let the photos do most of the talking. 😊 My last sightseeing update documented how we arrived in Arizona, the end of November. You can read about that here.
On the drive to Tucson from Wilcox Lagoons, we briefly stopped in Benson to meet a fellow Westy owner.
Mark and I met up with two befriended couples and fellow overlanding nomads, Duwan and Greg (and their van Ballena Blanca) of Make Like An Ape Man and Ellen and Scott (with their tiny Scamper) of Ellen Jacobson Author, for Thanksgiving, my 45th birthday, and my book launch. I wrote a post about that milestone event here and Duwan did a better job with that here. For the next few weeks, we would see our friends on and off.
My good friend Duwan, a fellow nomad, adventurer, vanlifer, ex-sailor, and frugal spender, wrote a touching and compelling post about me and my travel memoir, Plunge, on her informative and entertaining blog Make Like An Ape Man. I have linked to her posts before, as we’ve been on a similar path and traveled together in the past, but this story of hers had me truly amazed.
Her prose is humbling and flattering and provides a different, more personal side to anything else being published about me (except for my memoir itself :-)). Plus, it has some funny photos! Check it out here. You won’t regret it!
Saguaro cactus in the Ironwood Forest National Monument
November 25 – December 1, 2020.
Towards the end of November three couples and the lovely canine, Maya, converged in Tucson. All ex sailors (except for Maya). All now wandering around on the hard. We had met one of the couples, Scamper Squad, years and years ago after reading their blog and discovering they were working on their boat in the same marina as us in Indiantown, Florida. We were introduced to the other couple, Mark and Liesbet, through their blog after my friend from Scamper Squad suggested that I check it out. Like us, they had sailed, had house sat, and were traveling the country in a van. We eventually met them in person in Arizona a couple of years ago. Now the three wandering couples were in the same place at the same time, and we had big plans.
Gilded Flicker in the Ironwood Forest
We all left Tucson for the Ironwood Forest National Monument – about 25 miles out of the city – and set up camp. Thanksgiving was coming up, and even though it isn’t a holiday Greg and I normally celebrate, we thought it’d be fun to share some good food with our friends. After all, this would be the first Thanksgiving that Liesbet, who is Belgium born, would celebrate as an American citizen. But even better than that, two days later Liesbet would celebrate her 45th birthday and the publication of a project five years in the making, a memoir of her traveling and sailing life during her 30s.
Our camp in the Ironwood Forest National Monument
When Greg and I first set sail a few people told me we should write a book. I thought, OK, but we really hadn’t done anything yet. Any wannabe adventurer can buy a boat and think that they are going to be sailors – lots do. And then after we got on the water there seemed to be so many people doing it. And there were already so many people who’d already written books. I wasn’t sure what I could add to the canon of nautical memoirs.
And at first, I wondered this about Liesbet’s book too. But Liesbet has had a much more interesting traveling life than we have. Since falling in love with travel in her teens, she has hitchhiked in Europe, backpacked in Asia, traveled North America in a truck camper, and sailed through the Caribbean and the South Pacific. She has only lived a few years of her adult life in a traditional dwelling, has traveled in six out of the seven continents (planning to tick that last one, Antarctica, off her list in the coming years), and has visited over 60 countries.
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits.Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.
In November, Mark, Maya, and I lived on the road, in our camper van Zesty, and drove from Alabama to Southern Arizona (Tucson), which is reflected in our diesel cost. As usual, we managed to dump and camp for free (boondock). One of our favorite overnight sites of all times was the spot we found in Big Fur Public Use Area in Arkansas, early in the month. We stayed as long as our water and food supply lasted. (Hover over or click on photos to read captions.)
Sunrise!
Sunrise reflected in Zesty’s window
No more food in our fridge by the time we left!
No stipends or use of credit card miles this time, so what you see in the table underneath is what we spent. Mark fixed one of our car heaters, changed the oil, and replaced parts in the engine. To reward himself, he bought a better remote (Bluetooth) speaker. If you’ve read my travel memoir Plunge, you know how important crisp-sounding music is to my husband. 🙂
Spot at a pond in Hazen, Arkansas
Possum Kingdom, Texas
Free dump station and campground all in one in Lamesa, Texas
The desert near Las Cruces, New Mexico
Beautiful surroundings
The writing category is finally going down. I owed my cover artist $50 for the paperback cover (the eBook cover package a month ago was $125), we ordered two proofs of Plunge to check for issues and mistakes, and, to self-publish my book under a different name than my own (we chose Roaming About Press as our publishing company), I needed to purchase a business license in Massachusetts for the price of $35.
Camped with our bubble of friends
Dusk in the desert
We love saguaros
Twice, we built a campfire
Greg playing guitar
You can blame our special celebrations in the desert for the alcohol expense last month. Our bubble of nomadic friends includes two other couples, Duwan and Greg from Make Like An Ape Man and Ellen and Scott, who we hung out with for Thanksgiving, the release of Plunge, and my birthday, all of which took place the end of November. We made our own margaritas; a much better and tastier deal than the ones we bought in Hot Springs, Arkansas.
Thanksgiving buffet in the desert
My Thanksgiving plate
Birthday girl in the flames (Photo courtesy Duwan Dunn)
Duwan made a chocolate-peanut butter cake in a pan – yum! (Photo courtesy Duwan Dunn)
Friends around the fire (Photo courtesy Duwan Dunn)
Not a bad expense month. Maybe we are finally back on track?
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
The last time Mark and I crossed the United States from East to West was in October 2016. We attended the sailboat show in Annapolis as vendors with our marine WiFi and cell data product and invention, The Wirie, before driving to Northern California in our Prius. We had five days to cross this massive country in order to start our first housesit on the West Coast. We lasted a few years “out west,” house and pet sitting and exploring in our camper van Zesty, before making our way back east in the summer of 2019.
The Southwest is where our hearts lie. The vast, open spaces, low population, incredible natural sites, and sense of freedom trump the mountains and greenery of the East Coast. We think…
Our Route
If you’ve followed this blog for any length of time, you are familiar with our lack of planning. We pretty much take life as it comes, one step at a time; something that is evident in the title of my forthcoming travel memoir: Plunge. Anything can influence our route, our destination, our timing, our moods.
Here’s how we ended up in Arizona, this time around…
Six months. That’s how long Mark, Maya, and I lived in “our room above the garage” at my in-laws’ condo in Newburyport, Massachusetts. Apart from a one-month stint further up New England in June, when we helped family with home renovations and visited a couple of friends. Six months! It’s the longest Mark and I have ever remained in one place, since becoming a couple in 2004. Impressive… Or not?
The Pros of Room Life
I am the first to admit that I actually enjoyed being in a “stable environment” for a little while. Life on the road is challenging and exhausting. This break was timely and welcome. I savored every shower and good night’s sleep; the unlimited electricity and comfortable desk. Even our noisy, inefficient “easy-bake oven” and unreliable college fridge (that barely held produce without some falling out each time we opened the door) had their charms. The sofa bed displayed two big indents from our bodies and pained my back, but we could sit up in it! Our dishwashing routine in the bathroom became familiar. We just had to remember it or teeth brushing was in jeopardy.
We helped Mark’s parents wherever we could. People, in general, wore masks when out and about. I was productive with my book. Mark had a decent job with the US Census. Maya was comfortable. Our six months here weren’t too bad at all; a nice change from what we are used to. And, we managed to hang out with good friends one more time, before leaving.
(As always, hover over the photos to read captions or click to enlarge.)
Sangria on an Indian Summer day
Kevin, Holly, and cute Ginger
BBQ at our friends’ house
Good friends Ryan and Denise out on a rainy fall hike with us
Maya sniffing something on a fall hike in Massachusetts
The Pros of Vanlife
But travel is in our blood. We are nomads after all! So, albeit with mixed feelings and not much of a plan, the three of us hit the road again in our 19ft camper van the day before my father-in-law turned ninety, on Saturday, October 17th. We’d head south first. Then, turn west.
We have been perpetual nomads since 2003 – sailing, camping, RVing, house and pet sitting – and are currently roaming about South America in a truck camper with our rescue dog, Maya. As lifetime adventurers, we are self-employed and maintain a tight budget. This blog is about all that – and more – to inspire a life less ordinary. Don’t dream but do! 🙂
