Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: RVing Abroad (page 1 of 9)

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – June 2025 (Paraguay & Brazil)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In June, Mark, Maya, and I traveled two weeks in Paraguay and the rest in Brazil in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella. I hopped into Argentina again for a day trip, but didn’t spend anything in that country.

(Hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Well, our expenses for June were on the higher end of the spectrum once again. This time, the culprits were the long driving distances, ordering camper, truck, and dog items online in the US for Mark to bring back after his visit, a very expensive boat tour to see jaguars in the Pantanal of Brazil (no luck), our annual bank card fee, and Mark ordering a new driver’s license.

Here is the detailed breakdown:

Every month, we reach a new record for fuel expenses. For June, this was really insane and surely an all-time high! We spent over $600, just on gasoline, to drive 1,600 miles. Instead of heading directly from eastern Paraguay to the São Paulo area (700 miles), from where Mark would fly to the US, we made a 900-mile detour to explore Bonito and the southern Pantanal area in Brazil. To reach the northern Pantanal with better wildlife viewing possibilities, we would have had to drive another 1,200 miles. Too much and too expensive. Yup, Brazil is big.

On top of that, we bought an extra air filter and grease on Amazon for the truck ($41), and we handed over $21 for toll roads, which turned out to be a very time-consuming hassle. The first toll booths we passed in the middle of Brazil didn’t accept credit cards (unlike every other imaginable store or business). This surprised us, especially since we never took cash out, based on the ease and ubiquity of card use here. So, we had a problem.

A quick online search told us that our bank, Chase, doesn’t charge fees for using our debit card internationally, so that was the route to go. Except the toll attendants needed a special machine for this type of card. Long story short, it took a few more stops to figure out the correct procedure with our debit card and, furthermore, the process never went smoothly.

The booth attendant either didn’t believe us, didn’t know if they had the special machine, couldn’t find it, couldn’t operate it, or, in one case, it was broken. Once, a friendly employee actually paid our toll fee and shared her Pix account with us to refund her the money. But, foreigners can’t open a Pix account. Since a laundromat owed us a refund after the machines ruined some of our clothes, I arranged for them to transfer that much bigger amount to the friendly toll booth attendant, who received a 60% tip on top.

Needless to say, our toll road experience on awesome paved roads wasn’t as pleasant as it could have been, especially since there was a booth – with all the described hassles – every twenty minutes! The ride from the Pantanal to the coast took three days. On the last one (July 1st), which coincided with a new price increase as well, we avoided toll roads altogether.

Our entertainment category was unusually high. The main reason people visit the Pantanal is to go on a boat tour and look for wildlife. On this private tour out of tiny Passo do Lontra, we were allowed to take Maya and motored around for almost ten hours in total. Cost: $190.

And then, there was one of the highlights on this continent: Iguazu/Iguaçu Falls. I’ll create a separate blog post about that soon. We planned to just visit the Brazilian side of this natural world wonder, but then I stumbled upon an unexpected chance to witness the Argentinian side as well, which is very different.

The entrance fee in Brazil was about $20 per person. We skipped the elevated parking fee by camping nearby for the same price. In Argentinian National Parks, foreigners usually pay a very steep $45 per person. As a student (with proof), you get in for $7. I should add the transportation cost here as well, since I shared a taxi with four other people in order to cross into Argentina and experience that side. This was $19 per person, including a credit card fee of 5%. Not bad for a day trip of this stature.

We did well with our grocery bill ($202), thanks to affordable Paraguay and cheap produce in Brazil. The annual fee for our Chase credit card was due as well, at $95. The number of points we collect is usually worth that.

Mark and I love food and eating out, but we kept this reasonable in June with an expense of $65. This included a buffet in Paraguay, joining new friends for dinner in Bonito to celebrate Wayne’s birthday, one ice cream for me, and a really terrible pizza (with cream cheese!) as a take-out dinner one evening.

In general, Mark and I cook all of our dinners at home, where we stick to a plant-based diet.

Maya needed another yearly supply of Heartgard medicine ($50), which we ordered online, and because of the weird rules of South American countries that her rabies shot can’t be older than one year (in the US and Europe, a three-year vaccine does the trick for… three years), our pup needed yet another injection. This dog has had more rabies shots in her life than all the loose and stray dogs on this continent combined! Luckily, at under $10, the vaccine was cheap.

Mark needs a new Massachusetts driver’s license soon, so he ordered it online to receive at his mom’s address while he is there. We have to plan around expiration dates of all our documents to deal with this when we are in our home countries. These days, renewed licenses cost a whopping $50! We needed copies of his Brazilian visa as well for the border crossings ($1).

And we splurged on a couple of campgrounds in Brazil – for convenience/ logistical reasons to visit Iguaçu Falls and as an alternative to the pricey excursions in Bonito – and a cheap one in Paraguay for peace.

As usual, most of our nights were free, on the edges of towns or in nature.

Our utilities contained $40 for our monthly Starlink subscription (the other $40 is paid by our business) and $4 to top up our propane tank in Paraguay before crossing into Brazil, where filling US tanks is rumored to be difficult, if not impossible… Free potable water was acquired at campgrounds and fuel stations.

We ordered a bunch of caulk online to have in the camper (we ran out), and two more water filters to hook up to our freshwater line at the kitchen sink. This should hold us over until the end of our South American journey, later this year.

One of the highlights in Brazil so far for me is their laundromats. Yup, you read that right. After doing laundry by hand in icy river water for a year, or dropping off “more difficult” pieces at pricey laundromats in the rest of South America, I am delighted to report the ease and efficiency of 24-hour all-automatic laundromats in Brazil!!! And, in Bonito, we managed to wash and dry two big loads for $10 in total. I am a happy camper!

I still did a bunch of laundry by hand as well. When we have unlimited water available, because, why not?

In reality, we also spent $11 on alcohol, but thanks to a generous follower of this blog, MD, we didn’t have to pay out of pocket for the two bottles of wine we purchased in June. Obrigada!

At $1,559, our total for the month was well over our usual average of $1,300, despite our frugal nature and approach. Maybe it’s time to reconsider our goals and realize every country is getting more expensive than it used to be. Of course, the dropping value of the US dollar is not helping us…

How did we save money last month?

We cut Mark’s hair and cleaned Maya’s teeth ourselves, we took some secondary roads to avoid toll booths, we bought needed gear online in the US (after monitoring their prices for months and waiting for the best moment) instead of in South America, where imported goods are expensive or unavailable, we always make sure to know the price of EVERY item before purchasing, and we were extra careful with our expenses toward the end of the month (no splurges) after realizing we broke the bank yet again.

June 2025 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $607; maint.: $41; tolls: $21):

Entertainment (falls, boat tour):

Groceries:

Bank charge:

Dining out:

Dog (meds, rabies shot):

Miscellaneous (driver’s license M):

Camping:

Utilities (Internet: $40; propane: $4):

Camper (caulk):

Transportation (taxi L):

Household (water filters):

Laundry:

Alcohol:

 

TOTAL:

 

$669

$237

$202

$95

$65

$59

$51

$49

$44

$44

$19

$15

$10

$0

———

$ 1,559

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Iguazu Falls!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Paraguay – The Underdog of South America (Part 2: Friends, Cities, and Eastern Explorations)

In Part 1, we shared our first impressions of Paraguay and explored its historic Jesuit missions. Now, our journey continues with reunions, big cities, muddy roads, and a deeper look at life in this underrated country.

Back to Encarnación: Reunion Time

On May 19th, we reunited with our American friends Duwan and Greg from Make Like An Apeman, who’d just finished backpacking South America for a year. They had booked two Airbnbs — one in Encarnación, the other near Areguá, an hour from the capital — and invited us to stay.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

We quickly separated the camper from the truck, parked on a concrete pad, and shut down our fridge to enjoy house life for a change. The next few days were cozy and productive: we took turns cooking dinners, I did heaps of laundry in the available machine, Mark and I ran errands and caught up on work, and our group explored the city and waterfront with Maya.

We also followed a boardwalk to the colorful city “letters” and strolled past Encarnación’s cathedral and central plaza.

Sapucai: An Old Train Yard

As our friends stayed behind for another night, we hit the road towards Asunción, because we required two days of driving to reach the capital area. We stopped in Sapucai, known for its old train yard.

Unfortunately, the train museum closed earlier than indicated (we managed to visit in the morning), our fresh water tank ran dry (so we struggled with the little bit of drinking water we had left), and loud traffic and fireworks made sleep impossible (we should be getting used to this.)

Still, we walked Maya on a bike path and tried to stay flexible, adjusting our plans due to impending rain and muddy red dirt roads.

Yaguarón: The Wooden Church

Before reaching the capital region, we visited Templo de San Buenaventura in Yaguarón, known for its ornate wooden interior. A local guide explained the church’s intricate design for a tip.

Continue reading

Paraguay – The Underdog of South America (Part 1: First Impressions and Jesuit Missions)

Paraguay is a country often skipped by overlanders and tourists alike. With no world-famous attractions and sandwiched between popular Brazil and Argentina, it remains overlooked. But after traveling through increasingly expensive countries, Mark and I were more than ready for a change. Paraguay promised affordability, authenticity, and, according to our friends — sushi!

Encarnación: Entering Paraguay

We crossed into Encarnación on May 11th without any issues — unless you count Mark knocking over the customs officer’s mate cup. That moment confirmed a fun fact: in Paraguay, mate is served cold, unlike in Argentina. Another surprise? The now soaked and hand-written vehicle permit had to be recreated.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The city gave us a place to run long-delayed errands, save on gas prices, and visit a grocery store that had many items we couldn’t find or afford for a year. We loaded up, grabbed BBQ from a Sunday street stand, and sat by the river feeling like we’d finally entered another budget-travel paradise.

But reality hit that night: loud motorcycles, thumping music, and little chance of sleep reminded us that we were still very much in Latin America.

Life on the Waterfront (and a Sushi Dream)

Knowing Paraguay would be cheaper than Argentina or Chile, we’d saved up chores and repairs. In Encarnación, we tackled a camper ladder repaint, installed a mirror, and found transmission parts — choosing to do the work ourselves to save $400 in labor. The waterfront became our “work station.”

Despite the chaos, one night stood out: Mark and I finally went out for cocktails and indulged in a sushi boat at Hiroshima, a Japanese restaurant. We hadn’t felt that luxurious in years.

Jesuit Mission #1: San Cosme and Damián

Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – May 2025 (Argentina & Paraguay)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In May, Mark, Maya, and I traveled throughout Argentina (one week) and Paraguay (three weeks) in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella and we enjoyed a ten-day break from the road with our friends Duwan and Greg, who rented two Airbnbs and generously shared their space with us.

Thirsty Bella parked by our first Airbnb

It was another expensive month with our car leading the charts again. Fuel still cost over $400, but the real culprit was a maintenance job that we performed ourselves: we replaced the transmission oil in the engine for $323.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

To our pleasant surprise, we not only found the correct Ford oil in Encarnación, Paraguay, but the filter as well. And that in a country where our truck is not produced or sold. While hoping that labor was cheap, as we’d never performed this job before, we bolted at the extra $400 this project would cost at a Ford dealer. We picked a quiet parking lot and a dry afternoon to swap the oil and dropped the used liquid off at Ford for recycling.

We paid for toll roads in Argentina as well as Paraguay, but we also made a few detours on lesser roads to save money. I’m happy to report that the condition of most paved roads in Paraguay so far has been great! Worth the tolls. 😊 We also paid a dollar to park at the botanical gardens of Asunción.

Our monthly grocery bill fluctuates between $300 and $400 in South America. We ate out quite a lot in Paraguay, but we cooked many meals as well.

Shopping is much more affordable here than in Argentina and we found specialty foods that we’d been craving a while, so we are okay with our total of $331. As you can see, we buy and eat a lot of bread!

We couldn’t wait to enter Paraguay, because we’d been looking forward to its international cuisine and we knew the cost of living was much lower than in its neighbors. So, we took advantage of the many restaurants, diverse meals, affordable menus, and friendly service. It made us happy and satisfied our taste buds to splurge on sushi, ramen, Korean and Mexican food, and some local dishes.

The current US political climate and reciprocal policies introduced the necessity for Americans to apply for and purchase a visa for Brazil, starting this past April. Right in time for Mark to follow the application process and hand over $81. While we thought this step would take five business days, in actuality we waited two weeks in total, before we could cross the border.

We paid $70 for alcohol in May (wine, beer, rum), which seems average. We drank more than usual during our friends’ ten-day visit and we bought a couple of bottles of local rum in Paraguay, which we haven’t tried yet.

Mark with a local beer

The utility category was similar to last month. The other half of our Starlink subscription is paid by our business, so the $40 underneath represents only half of the total cost. Getting propane before leaving Argentina proved to be a hassle and unpleasant, which I wrote about in the previous blog post.

A bit of thought, planning, waiting, and creativity had to go into obtaining another international permit for Maya, with crossings into Brazil in mind. While the cost is not that high at $16 for a health certificate at a vet (who never even looked at or touched our dog) and a mere $2 for the agricultural department to make it official, the time investment and inconvenience every 60 days has been taxing. And the cost adds up after a year.

Mark bought a discounted Seresto flea & tick collar for our dog online as well ($32), which he will pick up in the US soon. This should give Maya protection for another eight months.

Once we reached Paraguay, we spent a few nights at paid campgrounds just to be able to sleep. We had a great experience at a German-owned facility and a blah one in a city park.

Most of our camping in May was free and “wild”, as always.

Paraguay doesn’t have high-profile or famous sights, but it does offer a few interesting attractions, like its mission district, waterfalls, and museums. Entrance fees remain affordable, so we enjoyed visiting every site we had in mind. More about that in the next blog.

Also on the to-do list once we crossed into this country were a few non-car projects. We bought a new mirror for the camper, which a company cut and installed for $12. We had our outside ladder repainted for $20. And Mark found a switch and resistor for a couple of dollars to adjust our fridge temperature.

At one of the missions, our astronomy guide showed us reproductions of celestial instruments which he creates out of metal. We couldn’t resist buying our own armillary sphere.

Our own souvenir armillary sphere

I needed more birth control pills and we bought a couple of souvenirs when visiting the information center of a Japanese town, ran by a super friendly lady. She had allowed us to camp in the back the previous night, which we were thankful for.

Camped behind the information center in Yguazu

Our last expense bill of the month goes to transportation. I took a train back into Argentina to pick up Maya’s permit and we used an Uber with our friends to go out to dinner one evening.

I would like to mention two free categories as well. No money went to laundry in May! The reason: I did most of it by hand in buckets and one of the Airbnbs our friends rented had a washing machine. I spent two days running loads of clothes, linen, and dog paraphernalia and hanging everything to dry outside.

Mark and I did go out for a few drinks, at a beach bar in Encarnación twice and with our friends at a trendy bar in Areguá on our last evening together. This totaled $15, but a donation of our follower MD took care of that. And we have some of those funds left for this month. Thank you!

May 2025 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $429; maint.: $323; tolls: $10; parking: $1):

Groceries:

Dining out:

Customs & Immigration (visa M):

Alcohol:

Utilities (Internet: $40; propane: $17):

Dog:

Camping:

Entertainment (missions, falls, museum):

Camper:

Miscellaneous (souvenir):

Medical (meds Liesbet):

Gifts:

Transportation:

Drinking out:

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$764

$331

$173

$81

$70

$57

$50

$38

$38

$34

$13

$11

$5

$4

$0

$0

———

$ 1,669

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Paraguay!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Wrapping Up a Year of RV Travel in Argentina – From Mendoza to Posadas

Mark, Maya, and I set foot in Argentina for the first time on March 6th, 2024, coming from Chile and Bolivia. Sure, we hopped into Chile a few more times, and we enjoyed a three-month break in our home countries since then, but we feel we gave our explorations of Argentina a valiant attempt. So much so that, in the end, we couldn’t wait to leave. We realized that slow travel—while it has many advantages—can also wear you down in third-world countries.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

After saying goodbye to our friends Heather and Jon in Mendoza, our trio headed east, with the Córdoba region as our first main destination. We stopped at a couple of places beforehand, but didn’t sleep well due to traffic noise and encountered restrictions in national parks because of Maya. After that, we gave up on Argentinian parks altogether.

What follows is a realistic account of our life and discomfort on the road, with a few sights thrown in. It wasn’t the best month we’ve had.

Route Northern Argentina

Dique Luján

We searched iOverlander for a quiet spot over Easter weekend and found a reasonable option by the dam of Luján. Coincidentally, we had picked a campsite close to a pilgrimage site with Stations of the Cross.

We managed decent walks with Maya and the sun finally gave us the warm weather we’d been waiting for after our coldest and wettest summer on record. But because of the heat, our fridge started acting up again—running too much, too hard, and draining the camper battery.

After one warm day, the clouds returned, power became precious again, and the wind picked up. The incessant shaking of the camper upset both Maya and our sleep. We had finally found a quiet place, but ended up moving in the middle of the night to find better wind protection among trees.

The following morning, we moved away from those same trees, fearing they might drop particles on the roof that would upset Maya. We found an open-air spot, but that didn’t help with power since it rained all day. We had to run the car for an hour just to charge the battery enough to work—our computers and Starlink need a lot of electricity. Mark and I also cleaned the fridge’s compressor with Q-tips and improved its ventilation. That helped it run more efficiently.

On Easter morning at 8am, teenagers in two cars pulled up next to us, opened their doors, and blasted music. We had planned to leave anyway, so we took off for a long day in the car.

Capilla del Monte

Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – April 2025 (Argentina)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

Mark, Maya, and I traveled throughout Argentina in  Thirsty Bella for the entirety of April. The last week, we mostly stayed put to save money, as the numbers were adding up quickly again! This way, we managed to keep our expenses within budget, despite a massive splurge, for which we used some donation money. 🙂

Previously, I mentioned the dollar was getting stronger against the Argentina peso, but that was short lived. After a week or so, both presidents, the local one and the US one, made changes that decreased its value. Argentina is becoming cost-prohibitive for us, so we are wrapping up our stay in this country.

Because of the uncertainty of the US economy thanks to the one in charge, we – as well as most Americans – have lost a bunch of our savings, causing more insecurity. The ripples are felt internationally, of course. On a personal level, we are working more than usually to make up for some of the losses. My blog updates might become less frequent, since there will be less to report and we’ll be stationary for longer periods of time.

On to the expense report of April. I will add some ways we try to keep our costs down. Fuel is the highest category once more. We drove about 1,700 miles (2,700km) in a month, which is a lot for us. We are ready to leave Argentina, so tried to cover ground north and east. Because of the lower exchange rate, the increased price per liter, and our crappy fuel economy of 10 mpg, our gasoline cost for this stretch was $524. Insane.

Still in the car category, $19 went to toll roads. Due to the height of our truck camper, we get charged twice as much as a normal car, which adds up at $4 a toll. We tried our best to avoid the booths as long as the extra distance wouldn’t be more costly in gas or the dirt roads wouldn’t become too annoying or time consuming. For our fifth oil change on the continent, we bought a $2 bucket.

We tried to be careful in the grocery stores, only buying items on sale and produce that was affordable.

Two factors influenced our $364 food cost in April: together with our friends Heather and Jon, we bought heaps of meat ($100 worth) and ingredients for side dishes when visiting European friends in Maipu, near Mendoza, for two nights. We wanted to give our ex-overlanding friends a break, culinary and financially. Unbeknownst to us, there was another (hungry) couple staying on the property.

And, our budget was relieved a bit by food items given to us by Heather and Jon, before they stored their camper in Mendoza and flew to the US for the summer. I am still enjoying their cheese, butter, and mayonnaise!

Our big splurge for April was a fancy lunch out at a Michelin-star restaurant (Zonda) in Luján de Cuyo with our friends. We figured it would be our only chance to ever eat in a star-rated place, so we decided to celebrate everyone’s anniversary early. Ours would be the end of April and theirs sometime in May.

Zonda was an exclusive affair and we enjoyed the different courses with wine pairings, but, since all of us have eaten in similarly renowned establishments before (Mark and I in the US, Belgium, Peru, and Bolivia) and could compare, we found the portions meager, the menu slightly uncreative (three dishes involved sorbet), and the service less professional than expected. That being said, the food and wine were tasty and of excellent quality and the company and fabulous time together trumped it all!

This seven-course meal set each couple back about $300, including tips. In our case, we finally used the generous Christmas donation from our supportive and kind follower HR and another donation of MD to set off the expense. All donations have now been used up.

I also treated myself to a three-scoop ice cream ($2) following the lead of Jon and Heather, which, believe it or not, had not happened since last September. It had been six months since I grabbed my previous ice cream treat from my mother-in-law’s freezer! Ice cream is still affordable in Argentina. Now that I know this, I might repeat this experience.

Just like in March, we only ate out once, also for a special occasion, which means that our other meals were cooked at home; it’s healthy, tasty, and affordable.

Regarding alcohol ($76), Mark and I bought wine from grocery stores – we enjoy red Malbec and white Torrontés the most in Argentina – and had a little “stock-up” at our favorite winery of all times, Giaquinta in Tupungato.

The utility cost went up because of the worse exchange rate. Our Starlink antenna for internet is registered in Argentina, so this affects our total. Half of the monthly subscription price is reflected here, since our business pays for the other half. We topped up our propane tank as well, for $17. All the water we added to our tank in April was free.

Most of the month, we camped for free in nature and on the edges of cities, which was a mixed bag between noise and peace.

Two nights, however, we stayed at a campground called Valentin Storage to see our friends again and to focus on chores like an oil change, cleaning the car and camper, and laundry.

I was out of birth control pills, which I usually get for free in the US or buy abroad for $1-$2 a month. Not in Argentina! When I finally found a pharmacy that carried the medicine with the correct balance of ingredients, I was charged $8 for one strip. I bought it, thinking I wouldn’t find it elsewhere. After checking one more pharmacy in Córdoba and being quoted $5 for the same thing, I bought it and returned the other pack by walking another mile. Yes, we do those things to save a few dollars. Don’t get me started on the hassle involved when we discover the supermarket receipt is incorrect! 😊

Mere dollars went to laundry (I did one load of sheets, towels, and heavy clothes at the campground and washed everything else that month by hand), sending a fax to a health institution for Mark to get Power of Attorney for his mom, and a museum visit for me. More about that one in an upcoming blog.

So, all in all, we kept it manageable in April, but we really tried hard to stay under our $1,300 average. We are now heading to Paraguay, counting on a cheaper cost of living. Stay tuned!

April 2025 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $524; tolls: $19; maint.: $2):

Groceries:

Dining out:

Alcohol:

Utilities (Internet: $41; propane: $17):

Camping:

Medical (meds Liesbet):

Laundry:

Miscellaneous (fax):

Entertainment (museum Liesbet):

 

TOTAL:

 

$545

$364

$196

$76

$58

$20

$5

$3

$2

$2

———

$ 1,271

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Completing our year-long travels throughout Argentina

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Coming Full Circle in Mendoza, Argentina

While we were camped at a peaceful lake in Central Chile, snow was predicted in the mountains, where the border stations are located. Since Maya’s international health permit was expiring soon, we needed to prevent getting stuck because of road or frontier closures. So, at the end of March, Mark, Maya, and I left Chile with no intention to return. Unless we decide to sell our truck camper in Santiago, its capital, whenever we are done with this adventure. 

Loncopué

Entering Argentina for the last time was smooth, but involved a lot of bumpy roads and disappointing campsite hunts for one reason or another; the strong winds, incessant traffic noise, and an anxious Maya being the main culprits. We encountered countless sleepless nights on our drive north. 

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

When we moved to a different town and found a relatively peaceful, wind-protected, and grassy spot among the herds and shepherds moving their animals from their summer grounds in the Andes Mountains to the winter valleys and farms, we felt better. It was cool to be a part of “the pack.”

Here are two videos to get a better feel of the camping scene:

Caviahue

Then, it was time for an unexpected highlight in Argentina. Caviahue contained a few attractions based on our resources, but it was located at an even higher elevation, meaning it would freeze at night. Since this causes condensation and discomfort issues, we wanted to keep our time there to a minimum and managed to complete all our excursions within 24 hours.

First, we drove to this fascinating, beautiful, and diverse area and hiked along a clear lake to a stone bridge. Erosion had impacted the volcanic rock here, creating this natural arch.

Then, we reached and admired patches of monkey puzzle trees. Also called Araucaria (or Pehuen in the local language), it is the national tree of Chile and of the Argentinian province, Neuquén, where we found ourselves. 

Continue reading

The Lake Districts of Argentina and Chile

Leaving Chile

It was a bit tricky, but Mark and I managed to get a vet check-up and international dog permit for Maya in Futaleufú over the span of three hours and for a total cost of $28. Unfortunately, unlike her other permits, this one was only valid for 30 instead of 60 days. It would keep us moving!

The same afternoon, we left the country and crossed into Argentina on washboard roads, aiming for six things in one week: sunnier weather on the other side of the Andes Mountains, better roads, cheaper fuel, no ferry schedules/costs that were mandatory on the Carretera Austral, an affordable laundromat, and a full propane tank. After accomplishing those goals, we’d return to Chile for about three weeks.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

In Esquel, our first town in Argentina, we failed dropping off our laundry and it took multiple attempts to find a decent camping spot. We did manage to fill our fuel and water tanks for almost half the price than in Chile!

The next stop was Rio Azul, where we planned to take a mini-break from the road for a few days and sit out bad weather. We did have to move once, because it rained so much that the river rose rapidly and we worried about being flooded.

Bariloche, Argentina

The idea was to – urgently – fill our propane tank at a depot on the way north to Bariloche. We were now on paved roads, the sun had returned, and progress was smooth. We had confirmed this depot was open on a Saturday morning, but when we arrived, desperate for gas to cook, shower, and heat Bella, the people capable of filling international tanks didn’t work during the weekend. The facility was only open to swap Argentinian tanks… Right.

Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – March 2025 (Argentina & Chile)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In March, Mark, Maya, Thirsty Bella, and I left the Carretera Austral in Chile and explored the Lake Districts in that country and in Argentina.

We hopped back and forth between Argentina and Chile a couple of times.

Before I get into our expenditure details of last month, I want to say something about our income. Throughout my blog posts, I mention that we both work on the road. Yet, some of you are still surprised about us trying to make a living, not being retired (will we ever?), or the extra challenges that come with the need to earn money.

Mark and I have been nomads for 20+ years and we have had several jobs during that time. (I elaborate on those in my sailing memoir Plunge.) Otherwise, we couldn’t have traveled this long and this far. And, no, we don’t have rental income or a property anywhere. Our camper – and whatever it holds – is all we own, apart from a few boxes of memorabilia, stored with family in Belgium and the US.

At the moment, since my translation and proofreading jobs have dried up, Mark and I both work as freelancers, completing different tasks that aim to improve AI. While Mark’s work is straightforward, steady, and poorly paid, my projects are sporadic, specific, complicated, and with a higher hourly rate. Rarely, our monthly income covers our expenses. We still have to dig into savings to support ourselves. That’s the reason we need to spend less money. We always try…

Which brings me to our expenses of March, during which we did not succeed to live frugally. As a matter of fact, it was an expensive month. But if you look at the details, it is easy to understand why our total reached $2,000; many hundreds of dollars above our average.

As you’ve come to expect, the car category is the highest again. We actually left Chile to cover a substantial distance in Argentina, where the gasoline is cheaper, before returning to Chile. Still, we spent $419 on fuel. Since motor oil (as well as any imported products) are cheaper in Chile than in its neighbor, we bought enough for our next oil change (7 liters), at a price of $49. The rest of the “car money” went to tolls ($4) and a parking lot for a hike ($3).

Filling up with gasoline in Argentina

The extra category that made our total “jump” was an occurrence that we usually attend to in April or May: Mark’s annual summer visit to Massachusetts for health care and family reasons. He and I were loosely chatting about where in South America he should leave from in July, while Maya and I stay behind. I’m confident we will be in Brazil by then, so he looked into plane rides from São Paulo (more affordable than Rio de Janeiro), and, before I knew it, he had booked flights, because the price was right. Indeed, $435 for a return journey between São Paulo and Boston is a good deal!

Our grocery bill went up again, because we bought a few things in Chile that are not available, or twice the price, in Argentina. We do feel $400 a month for food shopping in third world countries is on the high side. To be honest, we can’t wait to reach cheaper countries again after more than a year of expensive shopping.

And, since we would leave Chile indefinitely in March, we stocked up on Maya’s dog food ($200) as well, for reasons mentioned above – it’s either not available or more expensive elsewhere in South America. Unless Brazil surprises us! Now, she can keep eating her high-end, salmon-based, chicken-less kibble for another six months or so. We needed a new international health permit for her to cross into Chile as well.

Mark and I went rafting in Chile, which you might have read about in my previous post. Yes, for the privilege of almost drowning, we paid $188. Other than that unfortunate glitch, it was a lot of fun. I’ll mention here that the US dollar kept devaluating against the Chilean peso. So, while a year ago 1,000 pesos amounted to one USD, this was not the case anymore in 2025. Another reason the scales are shifting towards Argentina again, where the US dollar is becoming stronger.

Mark celebrated his birthday on March 1st, so we could potentially have added all our activities for that event under the gift category, but we didn’t. The rafting trip is mentioned above and other related expenses below. Because we changed plans, we arrived in Futaleufú that day, allowing us to enjoy a fabulous, fancy dinner at an excellent restaurant. The cost was $80. The other $11 for “dining out” went to empanadas and a portion of French fries bought at street stands.

We only ate at a restaurant once in March and that was for a special occasion. All the other dinners were cooked and consumed at home.

A bottle of Bacardi rum and a myriad of Malbec, Carménère, and Chardonnay wines constituted our $56 bill for alcohol. Thanks to a donation from MD, this number wasn’t higher. 😊

Dinner al fresco

While we were heading north on the Carretera Austral in Chile (where no facility fills propane bottles), we were running low on propane gas, causing us to be super careful using the heater. We often felt cold inside the camper. This precaution allowed us to reach Argentina, where American tanks can be filled, either at depots or by the gravity-fill method. Unfortunately, the facility we planned to get our tank full again didn’t have crew on Saturday morning to help us out, despite the depot being open…

This meant we had to make it to a bigger town before noon (when businesses close for the weekend), namely Bariloche. Three attempts later, we found a man willing to sell us propane… at the crazy price of $5 per kilo (or $45 for a full tank). Since we were in a bind – our tank was utterly empty by then, because we had confidently run the heater in the morning, thinking we’d get propane an hour later – we had him fill half our tank. Only to repeat this cautious and stressful procedure a month later. Our next camper will NOT have a propane system.

And we paid the usual monthly subscription to Starlink for our satellite internet ($36). Our business takes care of the other half. A better exchange rate in Argentina saw a slight drop in this fee.

Mark never wants anything for his birthday, so we went rafting and I bought him some goodies – Belgian-style beer and homemade jelly – in a small grocery store. This year, I didn’t even have access to a Western-style supermarket to spoil him.

On his birthday, we also went out for a drink at a brewery in Futaleufú, something we rarely do. It was nice to just listen to music and relax on a patio with Maya. Until it got too chilly.

Anyone who follows us on Facebook might have seen multiple series of photos of us doing laundry in the icy Patagonian rivers. We continued that tradition in March, since laundromats are, really, very expensive.

One shop charged $1 per piece of clothing; sheets, sweaters, towels, and jeans didn’t count. Well, those are the exact items that are difficult to hand wash! Luckily, lake water is warmer than river water! We eventually found a shop where we dropped off our sheets and bigger items for a total of $10.

The last two categories were peanuts. We bought more painkillers, since the container of Tylenol we brought back from the US is going fast, due to my frequent headaches and migraines. And, we needed a new spray bottle for a bleach solution to attack the mold created by condensation and frigid weather.

Every night in March, we camped for free. We enjoyed most of these quiet places in nature.

In April 2025, we will still be driving a lot – this continent is big – but we will do our best to stay within our budget.

March 2025 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $419; oil: $49; tolls: $4; parking: $3):

Travel (flights Mark):

Groceries:

Dog (food: $197; permit: $28):

Entertainment (rafting):

Dining out:

Alcohol:

Utilities (Internet: $36; propane: $17):

Gifts (B-day Mark):

Drinking out:

Laundry:

Medical:

Household:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$475

$435

$395

$225

$188

$91

$56

$53

$19

$11

$10

$4

$2

$0

———

$ 1,964

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: The Life of a Prehistoric Nomad – a guest post by author and blogger Jacqui Murray

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Rafting the Rambunctious Futaleufú River in Chile – From Exhilarating to Life-threatening

My previous blog post about the Carretera Austral in Chile was getting too long, so I’m reporting on our rafting trip in Futaleufú separately. This cute town is located near the border with Argentina, two hours from the Carretera via a really bad dirt road. Mark and I booked a tour with Rio Futaleufú Rafting for March 3rd, which would have the least amount of rain in the forecast. We left Maya at home for six hours, a record for her, and looked forward to this exciting adventure.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

I love, love, love rafting. In my book, it is the most fun and thrilling excursion one can experience; the more rambunctious and frequent the rapids, the better. The action of rushing through the water, frantically paddling to the instructions of the guide, and being one with the elements is invigorating. And that’s how this ride started out.

Our group consisted of two rafting guides, two rafts, eleven rafters, and three support crew in individual watercraft. Everyone was equipped with a wetsuit, undershirts, booties, a rain jacket, a life vest, a helmet, and a paddle.

After some instructions ashore, we practiced commands on the water and got to know each other better. Each of our six-person team had rafted before. Mark and I did so in Costa Rica 19 years ago and my first rafting trip was in New Zealand, when I backpacked in Southeast Asia and Down Under at age 25. It had been a while, since rafting isn’t cheap.

Every river is different and the Futa is famous for its high density and frequency of Class IV and Class V rapids. Mark and I had never rafted a Class V stretch of water, so we’d paid for the longer session ($92 per person, including photos) to experience them. Within the first five minutes of floating down the foamy river (the water level was quite high), we were soaking wet and loving it. We rushed through the sequences of Class IV rapids, smiling wide, and most of our group jumped down a 20-foot-high cliff just for the fun of it.

Continue reading
Older posts

© 2025 Roaming About

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑