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A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Travel (page 1 of 30)

Dipping Our Toes into the (Eastern) Algarve of Portugal

March 14, 2026 / / 16 Comments

The Travel Plan

During our last three weeks in South America in December, Mark and I needed a “What’s Next?” plan. We had just sold our truck camper in Chile and were officially homeless. Finding our next campervan would likely take a while — we’re very picky. (If you have a Mercedes Vario 4×4 for sale or know someone who does, please let us know!)

After more than two decades as nomads, we don’t really have a home base. Mark’s niece and her husband moved into “our” room above the garage at his mom’s house in Massachusetts, which is a win-win for everyone involved. Living in “our” guest bedroom with a shared bathroom in the middle of a New England winter would only work for about a month. So where could we go after that?

Renting a place in the Caribbean for a few winter months was too expensive. We didn’t want to go to Belgium yet to stay at my parents’ “little house,” because winter there is cold and rainy — and Mark can only stay in my home country 90 days out of every 180. It made more sense to use those days closer to summer. And we were ready to leave South America and its Hispanic culture.

Then an opportunity appeared. A friend invited us to stay at her rented house in southern Spain for a couple of weeks. My parents would also be nearby for their winter break. Add our curiosity about Andalusian villages and the discovery that Mark, as my spouse, didn’t have to do the Schengen shuffle while traveling with me — and the southern Iberian Peninsula became the obvious destination.

Yes, the irony of going from Hispanic South America to Hispanic Spain isn’t lost on me. There are plenty of similarities, but luckily some differences too. 🙂

We started in Lisbon, Portugal, mainly because rental cars were much cheaper there than in Spain, and we could take a direct flight from Boston with Maya. Our plan was to stay in the region for two months and then slowly make our way to Belgium – by train! – in early April. That would be the real adventure of this trip.

The Blogging Plan

This year, I had hoped to publish simple monthly wrap-ups. But honestly, we are doing and seeing so much — way more than we did in South America — that those posts would become ridiculously long.

Writing chronologically and geographically is tricky as well. During our first two weeks in Spain, we actually spent more time in Portugal. So I’m splitting that period into two blog posts: one highlighting our visits in Portugal, and the second focusing on southern Spain.

The Algarve — Part One

Faro

On February 1st, we brought the rainy and windy weather with us from Lisbon to El Rompido, Spain. After a wet drive without mountain views, we greeted our friend Patti and stayed indoors for the next few days, trying to be warm and dry.

Leaving Lisbon in the rain
Spain, here we come!

On the first decent day — which turned out sunnier than expected — Mark, Maya, and I drove to Tavira to meet and pick up my parents. It had been a year and a half since we last saw each other in person.

And, back into Portugal for sightseeing
Seeing my parents again after a year and a half

We didn’t need an early start because crossing the border into Portugal meant gaining an hour. In theory, we would arrive at the same time we left, since the drive itself took about an hour. Of course, that also meant the return trip would take two hours. 🙂

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in the galleries to read their captions.)

The airport of Faro is close to its historic downtown
The main entrance to the old town
Downtown Faro
Walking in the historic downtown of Faro
Lavish building within the walls
Tiled facades again
The Cathedral of Faro in the historic center
A pricey but tasty three-course day dish with seafood, a drink, and olives
The place to have lunch!

Our little family group spent part of the day exploring historic Faro — wandering narrow streets, having lunch on a sunny patio (Maya wasn’t allowed inside), and strolling along sections outside the old city walls.

The city sign with Maya
My dad leaning on the F of Faro
Roaming the streets of historic Faro
Maya meets another dog.
Stork on the roof of the gate
Leaving the old town through a different gate
The elaborate gate seen from the outside
Another historic building outside the old town
A different side of the city
Church along the way to a more impressive church
Mark, Maya, and I in front of the Igreja do Carmo in Faro
The bell tower of yet another church
No excuse to leave dog shit on the sidewalks!!

Tavira

Since we had time left that afternoon, my parents introduced us to Tavira, another beautiful town. As usual, we hadn’t done research beforehand, which meant every corner of the historic center revealed something new and charming.

The Roman Bridge in Tavira is a 17th-century, 7-arch stone pedestrian bridge spanning the Gilão River.
Pretty building across the river
Chapel in Tavira
Church tower aiming for the sky
Old fort walls
Mark and Maya on the fort walls – Can you see Maya’s head poking out?
A short walk on the uneven walls
Looking back into the garden of the old fort
Mother and daughter in Tavira
One of the ruined towers of the fort
Another church in Tavira
My dad in front of another church
Bell tower against the sky
A simple church facade
Tavira’s town hall
Praça da República is Tavira’s main square.
Good girl, Maya!
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Our Introduction to Portugal – Four Days in Lisbon and Sintra

March 4, 2026 / / 39 Comments

When Mark, Maya, and I arrived in Lisbon, Portugal, after a bad experience with the airline company TAP Portugal, there was a lot of talk about “the storm” that had hit the southern Iberian Peninsula on the evening before our arrival and which had caused some of our delays. For the first time, we checked the weather. It didn’t look promising.

Welcome to Lisbon, Portugal!

There was more rain — and wind — in the forecast, but we would make the best of our four-day stay, despite already missing out on a free taxi ride promised by Booking.com (because we had to postpone our arrival), moving our accommodation out for two days, having less time on the peninsula, and needing to pick up our rental car earlier than expected.

Maya in front of the Lisbon sign

Since we had a six-hour delay (in addition to the two-day delay because of the blizzard in New England), we had to skip our nap upon arrival after a red-eye flight. All these experiences helped with our need for flexibility and resilience. We were not going to complain. Not even about our tiny and moldy, wet apartment, where nothing dried. Because its location in Alfama was perfect. It was our first time in Portugal. And we had finally arrived in Europe!

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in the galleries to read their captions.)

Half of our luggage and Maya on the cobblestones of Alfama, Lisbon
Small bedroom
Small dining room
Maya loved “her” couch in the small apartment.
Dated kitchen
Tiny bathroom

Day one

Since it was noon by the time we checked in, we hit the cobblestone streets after taking a shower and settling in. We decided to try a typical local lunch of grilled sardines and a white fish. For some reason, I’d forgotten that serving entire fish with all the bones — and sometimes intestines — is a thing in Europe. While the flavors were great, I’m a lazy person when it comes to eating. The less work, the better. 🙂

Only fish with bones
Alfama alley
Lone winter tree in Alfama
One of the main roads in the Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon
Many displays of azulejos – white and blue tiles typical of the region
Strolling around the Alfama neighborhood
Many houses have tiled facades
Panteao Nacional
Tiled buildings
Detail of the tiled walls
My first pastel de nata pastry: yum!

In the afternoon, we explored the cute and mostly pedestrian Alfama neighborhood, climbing its hills, strolling its cobblestone streets, and eating my first of many pastéis de nata. For someone who loves pastries and pudding, this treat is heaven!

One of Lisbon’s churches
The tram is a popular way to get around the city – We never used it.
Tram 28 is the most famous one.
Tiled blue facade of a city dwelling
Another detail of the tiled walls
I love the moss on this colorful building.
Castelo de São Jorge in the distance
View over Lisbon’s colorful Alfama neighborhood
Cute church addition
Liesbet posing before an azulejos wall
A beautiful 3D art installation on the wall
Walking around Lisbon
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Annual Expense Report of a Nomad – 2025 (Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, Brazil, USA)

February 7, 2026 / / 21 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. “The less money you spend, the less you need to make” is our motto. 🙂 At the beginning of each year, I produce an expense report for the previous 12 months. This is the most recent one, for 2024.

Our first yearly expense report (2016) can be found here, the report of 2017 is here, the one for 2018 here, our 2019 expenses are located here, our total costs for 2020 are documented here, those for 2021 are detailed here, 2022’s financial summary hides here, you can find our full expense report for 2023 here, and our 2024 costs are recorded here.

These reports include ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and a 60-pound dog. We adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019. Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the US East Coast. The internet cost is for our Starlink’s monthly subscription fees. We bought our satellite dish in Lima, Peru, in September 2023.

It truly feels like the year 2025 came and went extremely fast. I still remember it starting at “the end of the world” in Ushuaia, Argentina, and what felt like mere months later, finishing in Massachusetts, USA, after our South American RV journey ended. During that last year, we crisscrossed Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, and southern Brazil, covering many thousands of miles and spending even more thousands of dollars. As a matter of fact, 2025 was our second-most expensive year on record, after 2014 when our life changed due to Mark’s cancer.

Posing by an Ushuaia sign
Back to Argentina
Back in Chile for the seventh or so time
Welcome to Paraguay!

As expected, the car category — at $6,000 — was the highest; a trend during those three years on the South American continent. Most of that went to fuel (around $5,000), while the rest was spent on parts, maintenance, tolls, parking, and insurance.

Quiet (but littered) parking lot for car maintenance
Filling up with fuel – including our jerrycan – in Concordia, Argentina, before crossing the border into Uruguay
The most affordable fuel station in Argentina
Fuel prices in Argentina
In Chile, the fuel is 1/3 more expensive than in Argentina
Fuel prices by the liter in Paraguay – PYG 8,000 resembles US$1
Fuel pump in Encarnacion
It’s not so easy to find a fuel station where we fit in Brazil – the last fill!
Trying this credit card machine with our debit card for tolls, in vain
Finally finding a place that can install our new tire, which we had to carry around
New tire on the rim and ready to install
Dealing with brake maintenance

Groceries came in at $4,000, which boils down to $333 a month, which is very manageable. I’m pretty sure we won’t stick to that amount this year in Europe.

A decent grocery chain in Argentina
A really cool and affordable grocery store in Foz de Iguaçu, Brazil
Coastal grocery store in Brazil
Some of the bounty from a grocery store
This is the Jumbo grocery store on the ground level of the Costanera building in Santiago de Chile. It is the best supermarket in all of South America!
The Carrefour in central Mendoza is a great grocery store.
Buying groceries at Lider, Chile’s cheapest grocery store
Affordable groceries in Paraguay

Our accommodation cost was higher than in other years, mostly because we spent three weeks in an Airbnb in Santiago de Chile ($800) and I took a 4-night side trip to Easter Island, where I stayed at a hostel ($200). We also “splurged” with a few weeks of real campground stays in Brazil, Paraguay, and Chile.

My hostel on Easter Island had several rooms, two shared bathrooms, a shared kitchen, and outdoor spaces.
My private bedroom with shared bathroom at the hostel Va’ehu
Our cozy Airbnb apartment in Santiago de Chile for three weeks
We decided to go with this campground in Bertioga, Brazil, for Maya and me
Camped for two nights at the affordable but basic Cerro Cora campground in Paraguay
Home for three weeks at Camping Manantial – We did move twice a week!
Our spot at Camping Las Varas in the hills

I have no idea how much other couples spend on dining out. Feel free to enlighten me in the comments. Our total for 2025 was $1,560. Restaurants in South America are generally cheaper than in the US and Europe, so we might have to take a step back in this category. Not that we went wild before.

A wonderful dinner out for my 50th birthday on November 28th
Our favorite restaurant in Santiago de Chile, not that we tried many…
Dinner out in Bonito, Brazil, for Wayne’s birthday
Dinner out in Puerto Rio Tranquilo: : Mark’s (vegetarian) pizza
Our only dinner out (with a friend) during our five weeks in Ushuaia, Argentina
Lunch at a Chilean restaurant in Rapel
Group sushi fest at Hiroshima restaurant in Encarnacion, Paraguay
Ramen bowl for lunch at a fantastic Japanese restaurant in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Ramen at a Japanese restaurant in Yguazu, Paraguay

Under travel ($1,484), we report our plane rides. Last year, Mark flew from Brazil to the US for his annual health check-ups, I hopped on a plane to Easter Island, and we booked two one-way tickets from Santiago, Chile, to Boston, Massachusetts, for the end of the year.

I was the only one on this big, commercial plane wearing a mask
Ready for my flight to Rapa Nui!
Our plane has landed in Hanga Roa, Easter Island
Flying north from Chile to the US- We are the only ones wearing a mask on the plane.

Dog Maya’s expenses hovered around $1,100. The biggest chunk went to vet visits, mostly because of a mysterious pain she developed in her neck in December. This ordeal set us back $500 between the vet in Chile, the one in the US for a consultation, and the drugs she needed. It was the first time in seven years of having her that she needed to see a vet other than for permits and shots.

Waiting at another inadequate vet office in Chile
The vet filling out our health permit in Mendoza, Argentina – and making a mistake!
Maya at the vet for another shot

We also bought dog food for around $400, obtained health permits to travel between Chile and Argentina and then to the US with her for about $150, and bought supplies like treats and toys…

Another massive bag of dogfood for Maya, which we have only been able to buy in Colombia and Chile.
This is the pile of dog documentation/permits after three years of traveling with Maya in South America.

The entertainment category of $800 includes my national park pass for Easter Island and three tours there, our scary rafting trip in southern Chile, a river tour in the Pantanal of Brazil, and entrance fees to other national parks on the continent.

Iguaçu Falls in Brazil
Last shot of the moai of Rapa Nui
Close-ups of two moai on Easter Island
Boat tour on a grey and chilly day in the Southern Pantanal, Brazil
Rafting down more Class IV rapids in different positions, Futaleufu, Chile
Getting closer to the Moreno Glacier via boardwalks in Argentina

Alcohol came in at $768. Mark and I usually have wine, beer, and a bottle of rum around. Quite a few bottles were purchased to share with friends and at a party on New Year’s Eve.

Some of our alcohol bought in August 2025
Homemade pizza with a fantastic bottle of cheap red wine
The best wine we found in Paraguay – from Chile
Happy hour by “our” falls in Brazil
Happy hour with Heather in Paraguay
Happy hour with Larry in Paraguay (Photo courtesy of Larry Tofler)
Happy hour at sunset
Happy hour on our grassy beach along the coast of Brazil

Our utility cost was $541, mostly for internet via our Starlink antenna. Our business paid for half of the monthly subscriptions, so the service is actually twice as expensive as the $435 I mention underneath. Topping off our propane cost $106 for the year.

Our Starlink antenna is a part of our ceiling
Getting our propane tank filled in Santiago de Chile
This propane store does the effort to gravity fill foreign tanks
Getting our US propane tank filled in Brazil is no easy feat.
Topping up with propane gas at a good price in Paraguay
Weighing our propane tank
Getting our propane tank topped up in Argentina
Gravity filling our US-style propane tank takes 30-40 minutes.

Transportation for us means Uber and taxi rides, mostly to get to airports and city centers when camped on the outskirts. The $383 number for 2025 also includes one checked bag fee when Mark brought parts back to Brazil from his US summer visit.

Mark waiting for his Uber driver to get to the airport of São Paulo, Brazil
An exhausted Maya on the Uber ride back home
We ordered an Uber XL to bring us and all our belongings to the Airbnb in Santiago de Chile

Our miscellaneous category shows $380, of which the most painful part ($220) went to a traffic ticket in Argentina. We also paid money for one mechanical check of a Vario campervan we had planned to purchase in Chile, for an online ad to sell Bella (which brought us our buyers), for Mark’s new driver’s license, and for small souvenirs.

Getting our first ever traffic fine (in Argentina)
My Antarctica magnet; the only souvenir I bought on this trip.
Our own souvenir armillary sphere from Paraguay

Maintaining and fixing our truck camper cost $227 in 2025, which is negligible in the grand scheme of things.

Fixing our freshwater pump
We took the camper off to fix something underneath.
Resealing the small back window of our camper
Recaulking all the seams

Mark and I also spent $170 on medical interventions like teeth cleanings (one for him and two for me) in Chile and Brazil and a few medications.

Returning to Puerto Natales in Chile was a big detour, but we had dentist appointments for cleanings.
My dentist in Bertioga, Brazil

Gifts amounted to $165, which mostly went to the annual photo calendars I create for my family.

The computer category was $157, all for hosting fees to keep this website up and running and for our email accounts.

I think most would agree that our drinking-out category is low at $116 for a year for two people. I bet some of you could spend that on one night out at a bar with friends. 🙂 We usually opt to stay in and drink our own cocktails or organize our own happy hours.

Happy hour at the beach bar in Encarnacion, Paraguay
Enjoying a drink at Copacabana Beach in Rio
Our new Belgian friends Marc and Anne-Marie met Larry, Jon, Heather, Mark, Maya, and me at the pizzeria-brewery one evening.

Household supplies came to $103, our annual Chase credit card fee was $95, and we only paid $83 for a year of laundry. Most of our clothes were washed by hand with tap water at campgrounds or river water in nature. When we have the use of a free washing machine (like at our last Airbnb), we go crazy!

Happy with our new camping chairs!
A choice of bread knives in the grocery store
Our laundromat of choice in Bonito, Brazil – good service, despite the little issue we ran into
We did our last Brazilian loads of laundry at this laundromat in Foz do Iguacu at the border with Paraguay.
An efficient, affordable, and clean self-serve laundromat in Brazil
Hanging our laundry to dry by a river in Chile
Hand laundry by the river in Rapel, Chile
Laundry day in Paraguay!
More laundry in Bertioga campground, BraZil
Hand laundry in Paraguay

Mark owed the Brazilian immigration department $80 for a visa, but this allowed him to stay six months. Belgians don’t need a visa, but I was unable to get an extension after our initial three months in the country, so we had to leave. Should I have entered on my American passport?

Family portrait in Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro
Driving by Uber to the center of Rio
The two of us with a Rio backdrop

And the last and lowest category of 2025 was clothing. Mark bought a pair of jeans on eBay for $28. We really don’t like shopping for clothes and, for some reason, our gear lasts forever. When we purged in Santiago before leaving the continent, I discarded clothes that were easily two decades old. Friends often offer us clothes that they don’t have use for anymore as well.

Speaking of the generosity of others, some of you sent donations in 2025, which took care of our web hosting, a couple of dinners, and a few bottles of wine. Thank you!

The grand total for 2025 comes to a shocking $19,552, a far cry from our usual average of $16,000. Yes, inflation is a thing and we do realize that life only gets more expensive, especially in Europe. We will see what happens this year.

Could you live off $20,000 a year for two adults and a good-sized dog, everything included? Let me know in the comments.

2025 Overview:

Car (fuel: $5,088; maintenance: $700;

tolls: $157; parking: $26; insurance: $22):

Groceries:

Accommodation (Lodging: $998; camping: $570 ):

Dining out:

Travel (plane tickets):

Dog (vet: $488; food: $387; permits: $152; supplies: $83):

Entertainment (national parks, rafting trip, river tour):

Alcohol:

Utilities (internet: $435; propane: $106):

Transportation (Uber, taxis, checked bag fee):

Miscellaneous (fine, car check, ad, license, souvenirs):

Camper (maintenance & repairs):

Medical (teeth cleanings, meds):

Gifts (B-days, Christmas):

Computer (web hosting fees):

Drinking out:

Household:

Bank fees (Chase visa card):

Laundry:

Customs & Immigration (visa Mark):

Clothing:

 

TOTAL:

Donations:

 

GRAND TOTAL:

 

 

$5,992

$4,015

$1,568

$1,560

$1,484

$1,110

$810

$768

$541

$383

$380

$227

$170

$165

$157

$116

$103

$95

$83

$81

$28

———

$ 19,836

– $ 284

———

$ 19,552

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

And that’s a wrap! If you are enjoying these posts and would like to help out with our expenses to maintain this blog, please click on the donate button underneath, in the side bar, or in the menu bar on top. I promise Roaming About will remain an ad-free website. Thank you!

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: A month long winter visit to the States

Donate to Roaming About to help maintain this website.

The Last Three Weeks of Our Three-Year Journey in South America

January 26, 2026 / / 34 Comments

In November 2022, Mark, Maya, and I started our latest adventure by staying at Airbnbs in Cartagena, Colombia, stressing about the arrival of our home on wheels. One rental apartment turned into five different ones, just like the expected one week of waiting turned into five weeks.

All the while, we had no idea if and when we would be reunited with Thirsty Bella as we refreshed the page of the shipping company schedule every hour for updates. Day after day, things went wrong and delays continued. We could not plan or prepare for anything and our stress level went through the roof, as we wasted precious time and money. We almost flew back to Texas and abandoned this journey. I wrote about that giant ordeal here.

Fast forward three years and we found ourselves at an Airbnb in Chile’s capital, Santiago, stressing again, but about different things. Ironically and fittingly (as irony and bad luck keep finding us, the perfect victims of Murphy’s Law), we ended our three years in South America in a similar way as we’d started them.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Time to organize and purge the rest of our belongings after moving out of Bella
Goodies we brought from Bella for our next camper
It was very nice to have a couch.

When Mark, Maya, and I handed over our truck camper Thirsty Bella and arrived at our city accommodation for three weeks before flying out of Chile, we had three goals: finally rest up after the stress and commotion of the last months, eat good food at home and in restaurants, and make a plan for 2026. One would think that three weeks would be plenty for this. Of course, we still had to take care of the usual work, living, and dog requirements while being “homeless.”

A curry Mark made at home
Having a full-size oven meant we could make our staple pizzas from scratch again.
Our meal combos were a bit odd at times, since we wanted to “get rid” of all our fresh foods before leaving the country.

We splurged a bit more than usually on our Airbnb, picking a modern apartment that had air conditioning and a washing machine. Both were well utilized and appreciated! Unfortunately, buildings in developing nations aren’t built the same as in first-world countries.

Our living space was roomy enough
I loved this washing machine with a combo dryer! We used it a lot.

Which brings me to our craved rest. Our Murphy bed was extremely creaky each time one of us moved and the mattress was hurting our backs. We usually like hard mattresses, but this one was too much. After a few painful nights, we took the mattress off, stuffed extra duvets between it and the bottom sheet, and stored the frame of the bed in its cabinet. Yup, we paid good money to sleep on the ground, but this change helped our poor backs and ears.

The Murphy bed that creaked and didn’t quite work
Our redesigned bedroom
Our USB-fan vibrated against the wood of the cupboard, creating somewhat of a white noise

The next issue was the person who lived above us. She (since we heard what sounded like high heels clicking back and forth) was awake every and all night, walking around, moving furniture, frequently dropping items. We heard it all. Even her bathroom movements and toilet flushes. Once we were asleep it didn’t bother us too much, but, when awake, there was no way of dozing off again. The noise also kept Maya up and restless, because she hates stuff “falling” on the ceiling — whether it is in a camper or an apartment. A USB fan we brought from Bella helped create “white noise.” When the pounding was too loud, I used our broomstick to hit the ceiling.

Our kitchen was missing necessary items, but that wasn’t an issue as we’d brought stuff from the camper that were duplicates or gifts. Construction in the hallways happened about half of our days there and every bit of commotion seeped through the thin door, but we did appreciate being on the back side of the building instead of alongside the busy road.

The kitchen was spacious and decent.
The luxury of renting an apartment across a Grido store: a freezer and fresh ice cream!
This was the only cheese and carrot grater – not big enough!
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Five Days on Easter Island – The Perfect 50th Birthday Present

January 13, 2026 / / 34 Comments

When I realized early last year that I would turn 50 in 2025, I promised myself to do something special for this milestone occasion. But I had no idea what this would be yet. Because of our flexible lifestyle and undetermined schedules, who knew where we would end up in November? It could be Brazil. Or Chile. Or back in Colombia.

Once we secured buyers for Thirsty Bella, whom we would meet in Santiago de Chile at the beginning of December, my excitement for a destination grew. I’d always wanted to visit Rapa Nui (Easter Island), which belongs to Chile. Mark and I actually had plans for a week-long vacation there in 2014, when we were sailing in French Polynesia. But fate had something much less fun and more impactful in mind twelve years ago. So, we hopped on a plane to the US instead of Rapa Nui to deal with Mark’s health.

Sunrise on Rapa Nui/Easter Island

This magical destination had always been in the back of my mind. Now that I’d be in the capital of Chile, the only place left with regular flights to Hanga Roa, the main town of Easter Island, it was the perfect time to book this trip. Unfortunately, prices for everything—from hostel rooms to flights to the national park fee—had gone up immensely since the pandemic. I sucked it up, yet tried to keep my five-day excursion as cheaply as possible.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Ready for my flight to Rapa Nui!
Our route – Easter Island is not close to anything.
I was the only one on this big, commercial plane wearing a mask
Our plane has landed in Hanga Roa, Easter Island
A welcome sign and local drummers

With only one personal item (Latam Airlines charges extra for carry-on bags as well), I took a cab to the airport early on November 16th and hopped on a plane for five hours. This domestic flight was comfortable and smooth. There was entertainment and—to my surprise—a meal was included. When exiting the plane, passengers were welcomed with Polynesian drumming and dancing. I felt immediately transported back to the South Pacific of our sailing days. It felt great! I had missed the islands and the culture.

To save money, I walked the half hour—a bit overdressed—from the airport to my hostel, enjoyed the views of the ocean and some old and newer statues along the shoreline, and was settled by 2pm, ready for my solo adventure.

Walk along the shoreline to reach my hostel
Another piece of art along my first walk
One of the modern statues along the way
The town’s man-made swimming beach and bay
One of the many statues along the waterfront
The first moai-looking moai I passed by
I have arrived!
This was the moment that I felt I was really and actually on Easter Island

That first afternoon, I had hoped to book a “full” island tour, buy my mandatory national park ticket, inquire about activities, and get my bearings. But because it was Sunday, I couldn’t do much more than explore the town of Hanga Roa and enjoy my first sunset over the moai of Ahu Tahai.

The view from across my hostel
I really liked the grassy areas along the waterfront, made for relaxing.
One of the two protected harbors on the island
Turtle!
Side view of one of the moai along the town’s shore
A different view from the harbor near me and its colorful boats
Sunday at the beach!

I had three full days to take in the sights of Easter Island. My return flight would leave on the afternoon of day five. It seemed like plenty of time.

Almost time for sunset
First sunset on Easter Island
Sunset at Ahu Tahai

On Monday, my plan was to hike along the northern shore and end up at a couple of national park sites to peek at. I had bought my pass for $102 (which had gone up that month from $75 and the bad exchange rate with the US$ made it even more expensive), but most of the sites are only accessible with a guide. Another change since Covid.

Nevertheless, I enjoyed strolling over the bluffs and the volcanic rocks, following horse trails, and spotting the “sunset statues” by day, without the crowds. Statues on the island were erected to honor the (affluent) deceased and later in history, (mass) burials took place underneath the platforms.

Revisiting Ahu Tahai the following morning
View over the platform and a single statue
One of the most-defined statues on this platform
Looking back towards Ahu Tahai and the top hat statue
Restored moai with eyes and a “top hat”

Continuing along the shoreline, I passed another single moai and eventually, I walked through a gate where I was immediately yelled at and kicked out by a ranger. Luckily, a more friendly local gave me a ride back to the village.

Sea crashing over the rocks along the north shore
Walking along the coast towards another moai
I really liked this guy.
My walk along the shoreline revealed another, single moai.
Close-up of this solitary moai
Many rocky bays along the north shore
Leaving the horse trails to follow the main, dirt road for a bit
Naturally carved out rocks
Rubble and ruins along my track
Walking back along the road after being “tossed out.”
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The Last Six Weeks in Our Truck Camper, “Thirsty Bella”, in Central Chile

December 22, 2025 / / 20 Comments

In October, Mark, Maya, and I swapped Paraguay for Chile for two reasons: to pursue a Vario van for our next adventure and to be able to sell our own Thirsty Bella easier, since Central Chile is the starting point for many overlanders. Flights to Santiago are more affordable than elsewhere in South America, gear is easily available in a plethora of well-equipped stores, and there are companies selling cars to foreigners. Since our car was registered in the US, the transfer to a new owner would be easy, regardless.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Back in Chile for the seventh or so time
Los Caracoles is a famously winding mountain road
Looking down Los Caracoles with little traffic

After long days of driving across Argentina, we arrived in Santiago, Chile’s capital, for the second time. We had fond memories of urban camping by Parque Metropolitano, which we’d hoped would become our base soon. We only stayed one night, to confirm if this was still an attractive overnight spot (it was), to fix our back window before the next rain, and to visit Suzie Santiago CTW’s office within walking distance. We would hire them to do the paperwork if we were to buy a Chilean Vario. It was all part of our months of research, gathering data, and interacting with potential service providers.

Camped for one night by the biggest park of Santiago on a cloudy day
Resealing the small back window of our camper
Hello Maya!
Climbing the hill for better views
Exploring the park with Maya
Cable cars go up and down the mountain
Can you spot Thirsty Bella?
A viewpoint in the park
The Costanera building – the tallest one of the city – is visible from many places.
This is the Jumbo grocery store on the ground level of the Costanera building in Santiago de Chile. It is the best supermarket in all of South America!

We also checked out Suzie Santiago’s workshop on the outskirts of the city and spent one night at a noisy truck stop before heading south towards Pichilemu, where we would set eyes on a Vario van that had a horrible conversion done to it.

Visiting Noam’s workshop
Chatting about the work Suzie Santiago CTW does
One short night at a truck stop

The idea was to confirm everything we were told by the owner—the vehicle was supposed to be in “perfect condition”—and make an offer. Then, we’d start the registration process in our name, bring the van to Paraguay to have it built out by a factory we’d visited and agreed on a quote with, and eventually ship it to Europe for the next chapter in our lives.

Since we couldn’t visit this Vario until Monday, we spent the weekend at a nice wild camping spot on a bluff in Navidad, with a pretty view over the ocean and good walks for Maya. Despite this being our favorite spot in a while, we didn’t return because of the strong onshore breezes, covering our camper with salt water. Since Mark had recently repainted our ladder and jacks, he didn’t want corrosion to return before the sale of our camper.

View over the river basin
Back at the Chilean coast!
Sunset by the sea
View of the Pacific Ocean
Walking along the bluff
Maya enjoys this calmer pool in the sea
A cool hike with views
Our camping spot on the bluff in Navidad
It’s always chillier on the coast than inland.
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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – November 2025 (Chile)

December 10, 2025 / / 21 Comments

 

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In November, Mark, Maya, and I drove short distances to check out a couple of Vario vans in Central Chile and to run errands, but we mostly waited around in our home on wheels, Thirsty Bella, until her new owners showed up. And I made a “little side trip”!

Our expenses were all but usual, with some big hitters, namely my five-day birthday escape to Rapa Nui (Easter Island), buying two one-way flights from Santiago, Chile, to Boston, USA, and a pricey Airbnb for our last three weeks on the continent. I will share that final expense in the December 2025 report.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The flight was on time
Waiting to board my plane to Rapa Nui
Entering Rapa Nui – Isla de Pascua – Easter Island – Paaseiland

Therefore, the highest category in November was travel ($1,050), which accounted for those plane tickets to and from Rapa Nui ($566) for me and the one-way flights to the US for Mark and me ($484 – we used points for the other half of the cost).

Posing by a group of moai at the quarry site

A few weeks after booking our US plane tickets, the price dropped by $250, so we dealt with the headache, frustration, stress, and time sink of eventually receiving credit back and rebooking the same flights. Since these are airline points, they didn’t make this expense cheaper, but we now have extra credit for future flights. That’s how we stay busy!

The grocery category was average at $354. We started to finish off staples, knowing that we’d move out of Bella at the beginning of December. Meals were mostly planned around “getting rid” of stuff.

Local grocery store in the small town of Rapel
Vegetable store in Rapel
Look at those strawberries, for under $2!
Amazing lettuce heads in Rapel: three for one dollar!
Birthday breakfast from a French bakery in Santiago
Maya always gets to lick out the empty peanut butter containers. She loves them!

Finally, our car was not the priciest item of the month. Our drive to Pichilemu from the capital was the furthest we ventured and, of course, we had to return, run errands, and leave enough gasoline for the next owners.

We also spent $22 on Chilean tolls and $18 on a 24V Mercedes Vario OBD adapter that we never used. We have our own 12V scanner, but this didn’t fit into the console of the grey Vario, so we managed to order a 24V adapter for our scanner with the help of friendly locals to check the red Vario we planned to pursue but eventually never did. Unfortunately, it’s impossible for foreigners to order parts online on most websites due to not having a RUT (local identity number), a local credit card, and a local phone number.

Borrowing the address of a local – and the credit card of another one – to order this Mercedes part
A 24V adapter for our 12V OBD scanner

The $240 entertainment price tag was mostly mine, apart from a cable car ride for our trio in Parque Metropolitano in Santiago on my birthday ($7). I also bought a discounted eBook written by an author friend ($1).

Teleferico in Santiago
Taking the cable car up the tallest hill in the park
The skyline of Santiago with the Costanera building being the tallest one

The national park pass on Easter Island went up from $75 to $102 right before I arrived, and I booked three tours with the rest of the money in this category. While initially appalled at the high entrance fee required to access most of the island, I thought it was all worth it in the end. I will post a separate blog about this magical experience.

One of the many moai on the island
Side view of Tongariki site
Sunrise at Tongariki

Likewise, the close to $200 “we” paid for accommodation went to my four hostel nights in Hanga Roa, the capital of the island and its only town. It was expensive for what it was. I slept in a private room with a shared bathroom.

My hostel on Easter Island
My private room on Easter Island

Trying to save money on my “little side trip,” I only ate out once for about $15. The rest of our dining out category went to glorious French food on my actual birthday and a few other restaurant meals, like a local lunch and take-out Chinese.

Amazing appetizers of salmon carpaccio and octopus at the French restaurant
Main birthday dinner course: fettuccini with two kinds of salmon for me and duck for Mark
Chinese take-out in Bella
Lunch at a Chilean restaurant in Rapel
Ceviche in an open empanada in Hanga Roa

Almost all of our meals were prepared at home.

Sandwich lunch by the river
Stir fry noodles
A healthy salad with Buffalo cauliflower
Easy pizza at home with a store-bought crust
One of my favorite homecooked meals by Mark: mushroom burgers from scratch served on a bed of lettuce with aioli and white rice (sprinkled with seaweed)
Homemade spring roll meal – tasty, healthy, and a lot of work

I was early this year with my Christmas gifts! As always, I created personalized photo calendars for my closest family members and managed to get these to them a month early, because I had time and our best group shots of 2025 had been collected already. Plus, I had no idea what December would bring…

At $64, our monthly Starlink subscription went up again with the Argentinian peso. Half of this amount is paid by us and the other half by our freelancing business. Because we failed to top up our propane tank in Argentina before crossing into Chile and we wanted to leave a full bottle for the new owners, we made the effort to get it filled at a professional outfit in Santiago. It was the most expensive, but the most efficient propane fill on the entire continent! Potable water top-ups were free as usual.

Getting our propane tank filled in Santiago de Chile
The filling was quick and easy and we could even park on the grounds of the building.
Filling with potable water at a gas station

Since we had to empty our camper cabinets, including our alcohol stash, we only spent $40 on this category in November. No complaints here!

Our favorite rum in the world! We had to drink it all!
Happy hour by the river in Rapel, Chile
Homemade pizza with a fantastic bottle of cheap red wine

I had forgotten to incorporate transportation to and from the airports in my Easter Island trip budget, so I had to skimp in other areas (like dining out). I used an InDrive taxi ($14) to reach the international airport of Santiago when I left and a shared van ($10) upon my return.

Waiting for an hour at the airport to take a shared van back home

On the island itself, I walked the 30 minutes from the airport to my hostel (I only brought a small backpack as a free personal item) and lucked out with a free ride back from the owner because he needed to pick up paying guests at the small airport building before I left.

I wanted to buy a few small souvenirs ($16) on Rapa Nui, because it is such a special place, and Mark needed more allergy medicine and a fresh asthma inhaler ($6) while in Santiago. These made up the miscellaneous category.

The drinking out category shows zero, because the only time we enjoyed a few cocktails at a restaurant was on my birthday and they were covered by my best friend Rosie. Thank you!

First drink: mojito
Second drink: pisco sour from Chile
Third drink: a glass of Carmenere wine

We boondocked (wild camped for free) the entire month and didn’t spend money on laundry, because I did a few loads by hand in the beginning of November and we saved the dirty clothes and linen from the second half of the month to wash at our Airbnb, which came with a machine.

Hand laundry by the river in Rapel, Chile
Hanging our laundry to dry by a river in Chile

And that almost concludes 2025. It was a very expensive month, but if you consider that $1,068 of our total of $2,487 went to my five-day vacation on Easter Island and another $484 was spent on plane tickets, November was actually quite cheap at just $935 of normal living expenses. We shall see what the future brings…

We camped here for a few nights after the Pichilemu fiasco.
One night at a loud truck stop near Santiago
A few nights of free camping near San Antonio on the Chilean coast
We returned to our river spot in Rapel for another week, before heading into the capital of Chile.
Our favorite urban camping spot in South America: Parque Metropolitano in Santiago

November 2025 Overview:

Travel (plane tickets to Easter Island and Boston, MA):

Groceries:

Car  (fuel: $237; tolls: $22; Vario part: $18):

Entertainment:

Accommodation:

Dining out:

Gifts:

Utilities (Internet: $32; propane: $30):

Alcohol:

Transportation (airport taxis Liesbet):

Miscellaneous (souvenirs):

Medical:

Drinking out:

Laundry:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$1,050

$354

$278

$240

$198

$150

$69

$62

$40

$24

$16

$6

$0

$0

$0

———

$ 2,487

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Our last month of Chilean and South American travels in Thirsty Bella!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Our Crazy Mercedes Vario Idea in Chile – A Waste of Time?

November 27, 2025 / / 30 Comments

Warning: This is a summarized yet long story about what we have really been doing the last four months.

I’m trying to remember when this crazy idea first emerged. At least six months ago, Mark was researching campers in Europe, since we thought/think this will be our new overlanding location. He must have stumbled upon a Mercedes Vario campervan, thought it looked cool and roomy, remembered our German friends Sabine and Michael having one, and focused his research on the 4×4 kind, only to discover that in Europe you need a special driver’s license for this “more truck than van” vehicle, prices wavered around a steep US$100,000, and there are many rules regarding registration, yearly inspections, insurance, and so on.

Driver’s side view of a Vario

It seemed like the Vario idea dead-ended right there. But on June 3rd (I checked my diary), an available 4×4 Vario appeared on the South America Overlanding Facebook page. There were only two problems: it was for sale in Peru with Peruvian plates and it was not converted yet. We inquired at a shop in Uruguay — the only place in South America we knew about — about how much it would cost to build out a van. More research followed and from the moment we realized that a vehicle can only leave Peru if it is owned by a Peruvian resident and that a new build would cost close to US$90,000, the idea was discarded again.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The 4WD Vario in Peru
The owner had bought insulation, but never installed it.
The empty van in Peru
The Peru van came with some gear
He also bought fans to build out this van.

Fast forward to sometime in August when Mark discovered that Chile had imported hundreds of 4WD Vario vans from Europe to use in the mines as passenger transportation vehicles. Another problem arose: these vans had been well used and came with a bus door instead of a passenger door. Replacing that with an RV door would prove almost impossible, let alone dealing with the paperwork, the language, and other crazy logistics.

Bus door
Closed bus door
The bus door from inside

Soon after, Mark had a revelation. For months, he’d known about a Vario van that had been built out by a Chilean and had been for sale for a couple of years. It was located along the Chilean coast, four hours south of Santiago, but he hadn’t been interested because the camper section was poorly built and unattractive.

His revelation was this: it had a normal door and two seats in the cab, it was already registered as a camper (as opposed to a company vehicle), and becoming the owner of a new vehicle in Chile was straightforward and popular. It’s why many new overlanders buy a car or camper in Santiago to start their South American overland travels. Why not buy this crappy camper, gut it, and rebuild the living space from scratch?

Passenger side view of the Pichilemu Vario camper – with a normal door

By then, we had found out that there was a company in Santiago — Suzie Santiago CTW — that built out vans for a much better rate — but inferior quality — than the expensive shop in Uruguay. More research and communications followed with companies regarding the build and the paperwork. So many months of work and focus went into this pursuit! It’s pretty much all we did during our five weeks in Paraguay. We even drew up the perfect layout. Fun!

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A Whirlwind Drive through Argentina 

November 15, 2025 / / 23 Comments

In the middle of September, Mark, Maya, and I returned to Paraguay without a deadline. We would use this landlocked country as a base during the spring until it turned unbearably hot or until we found a buyer for our camper. Neither had happened when we decided to leave.

Yes, two days each week were miserably hot, but it was still manageable. No buyer had appeared, but we felt Chile would be a better location for any prospective buyer to start their journey on this continent. The other reason we changed countries has to do with a concept that’s been emerging over the last few months. I can’t elaborate on that (yet) since all our attempts to reach this goal have been failing so far. But, if you’ve read our previous expense report “between the lines,” you might have gotten a hint about this idea.

Leaving Paraguay at night

Once we decided to head back to Chile — on the opposite side of the continent — we felt an urge to do this as quickly as possible. Like I mentioned in a previous blog: first, we wanted to eat sushi one more time. Over dinner, skipping an alcoholic drink, we decided to cross the border into Argentina that very same evening. We knew of a good camp spot in Posadas on the other side and hoped for a quick and easy crossing that late in the day. It was the middle of October.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Driving in the “wrong lane” and having to back up all the way – The height limit (about 3m?) had not been stated.
Entering Argentina in the good lane
Bella is ready to be scanned. Maya probably not…

Border officials were friendly, passports were checked, our Paraguayan TIP (temporary import permit) for the truck was returned and an Argentinian one obtained, and we had to back out of a narrow lane, because no height limit was indicated for a low arch up ahead…

Then, just when we thought all was fine and nobody had asked about Maya, we were told to exit the car and our camper was scanned by a massive machine! It was loud and intimidating.

Afterwards, the official stepped out of the giant scanner with our paperwork with only one question: “Do you have a dog?” Our “yes” was answered with only a nod. There’s no hiding from this futuristic machine! Luckily, people had told us earlier that nobody checks dog paperwork at this particular post.

A new country, a new truck wreck…
Maya was a bit more at ease on these long rides.
Narrow and bumpy lanes in towns
Lots of road obstacles in South America
Like umpteen potholes
Or poorly filled potholes
Or never-ending patched roads
Or police checkpoints

After one short night in Posadas, we hit the road in an attempt to spend as little time as possible in Argentina. There are a few reasons why we don’t like this country, but I won’t get into that now. Our first day was productive, despite the rain and the mix of road conditions with smooth pavement in the morning and uneven patches, dips, grooves, and bumps in the afternoon. We ended up at a familiar camp spot but had to navigate slippery mud to get there.

Leaving a trail upon arrival at the free campground
Messy arrival and exit in Sauce de Luna
A great overnight spot for a road trip!
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Returning to Paraguay – The Interlude

October 31, 2025 / / 20 Comments

This is more of a status update than an exciting blog post…

When we discovered that I couldn’t get a 90-day extension to stay the full six months in Brazil as a Belgian—hoping we’d sell our camper by then—we needed a new plan. The closest border was Paraguay. Having great memories from our previous visit, we decided to make it our South American base for a while, at least until the heat chased us off or a buyer popped up for Bella.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Back in Paraguay to deal with the entry requirements
Getting our hand-written TIP (Temporary Import Permit) for the car at the border in Paraguay.

Tacuru Pucu, Hernandarias

After crossing the border in hectic Ciudad del Este on September 11, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the free Tacuru Pucu campground, managed by the Itaipu Dam organization. Just like five months earlier, we stayed the allowed 14 days, but the grounds and facilities had deteriorated further.

Bella at the free campground of Tacuru Pucu
Our palapa is the best place to find shade and a little breeze.

Some of the electricity and water hookups were broken, the WiFi worked intermittently, and none of the hot showers functioned anymore. Most days, it was hot enough to shower with cold water anyway—or we could use our own shower and refill the tank with potable water. Maya was only allowed in a restricted area, so long walks were out of the question.

Doing tricks with Maya
One of the many giant termite hills

Despite the bugs and the heat, we enjoyed a much-needed break. Our favorite amenity remained the covered palapa, where we could do hand laundry, eat at the picnic table, chat with new and familiar faces (including Larry, who stopped by briefly), and swing in our hammock. I even started reading a book again!

Reading a book again
Sharing the hammock with Maya
Laundry day in Paraguay!

Those two weeks filled up fast with cleaning nearly everything in and on the camper, cooking delicious meals, writing, catching up on Brazil blog posts, and setting up a new computer after more files got corrupted on my ancient laptop. Now, I’m getting used to two new-to-me devices.

The hammock is everyone’s favorite spot!
Eggplant parmesan dinner with friends
Homemade eggplant parmesan dinner with friends (Photo courtesy of Larry Tofler)

I also gave my published book some long-overdue attention and started experimenting with a virtual audiobook. After a few chapters, I abandoned the idea—Amazon’s beta version wasn’t ready for prime time. Meanwhile, Mark repaired our water pump after an entertaining ride to the free zone with a Colombian, a Cuban, and a Paraguayan.

Fixing our water pump
Maya’s favorite spot in the palapa to stay cool
Ice cubes to cool everyone off
Unbearably hot in the camper
An anticipated and happily expected storm arrives!

Nights were restless. Each blistering, humid day seemed to culminate in a violent storm, leaving us with a couple of chilly mornings before the heat built again. Maya was terrified of the thunder and lightning, and fireworks or gunfire from a nearby military base didn’t help either.

Panting Maya in the heat
Antsy Maya on the bed

Mark was sick for a few days as well; a bummer. When it was too hot to do anything but sit in the shade of our palapa, we fantasized and talked about the next chapter in our lives, after our camper sells.

Ñacunday Falls

On our way to Hohenau to revisit Manantial Campground, we stopped for a night at Ñacunday Falls. Reaching the campsite deep in the jungle required trimming branches, brushing past foliage, and careful maneuvering to get level, but the peace was worth it.

They allowed Maya to enter this national park.
The best view of Ñacunday Falls
Powerful Ñacunday Falls
Ñacunday Falls from above
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