When I realized early last year that I would turn 50 in 2025, I promised myself to do something special for this milestone occasion. But I had no idea what this would be yet. Because of our flexible lifestyle and undetermined schedules, who knew where we would end up in November? It could be Brazil. Or Chile. Or back in Colombia.
Once we secured buyers for Thirsty Bella, whom we would meet in Santiago de Chile at the beginning of December, my excitement for a destination grew. I’d always wanted to visit Rapa Nui (Easter Island), which belongs to Chile. Mark and I actually had plans for a week-long vacation there in 2014, when we were sailing in French Polynesia. But fate had something much less fun and more impactful in mind twelve years ago. So, we hopped on a plane to the US instead of Rapa Nui to deal with Mark’s health.
Sunrise on Rapa Nui/Easter Island
This magical destination had always been in the back of my mind. Now that I’d be in the capital of Chile, the only place left with regular flights to Hanga Roa, the main town of Easter Island, it was the perfect time to book this trip. Unfortunately, prices for everything—from hostel rooms to flights to the national park fee—had gone up immensely since the pandemic. I sucked it up, yet tried to keep my five-day excursion as cheaply as possible.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
With only one personal item (Latam Airlines charges extra for carry-on bags as well), I took a cab to the airport early on November 16th and hopped on a plane for five hours. This domestic flight was comfortable and smooth. There was entertainment and—to my surprise—a meal was included. When exiting the plane, passengers were welcomed with Polynesian drumming and dancing. I felt immediately transported back to the South Pacific of our sailing days. It felt great! I had missed the islands and the culture.
To save money, I walked the half hour—a bit overdressed—from the airport to my hostel, enjoyed the views of the ocean and some old and newer statues along the shoreline, and was settled by 2pm, ready for my solo adventure.
That first afternoon, I had hoped to book a “full” island tour, buy my mandatory national park ticket, inquire about activities, and get my bearings. But because it was Sunday, I couldn’t do much more than explore the town of Hanga Roa and enjoy my first sunset over the moai of Ahu Tahai.
I had three full days to take in the sights of Easter Island. My return flight would leave on the afternoon of day five. It seemed like plenty of time.
On Monday, my plan was to hike along the northern shore and end up at a couple of national park sites to peek at. I had bought my pass for $102 (which had gone up that month from $75 and the bad exchange rate with the US$ made it even more expensive), but most of the sites are only accessible with a guide. Another change since Covid.
Nevertheless, I enjoyed strolling over the bluffs and the volcanic rocks, following horse trails, and spotting the “sunset statues” by day, without the crowds. Statues on the island were erected to honor the (affluent) deceased and later in history, (mass) burials took place underneath the platforms.
Continuing along the shoreline, I passed another single moai and eventually, I walked through a gate where I was immediately yelled at and kicked out by a ranger. Luckily, a more friendly local gave me a ride back to the village.
Since I thought I had plenty of time to explore this island, I relaxed that afternoon and finally caught up on my diary writing. The resident cat and two dogs often kept me company. I had made arrangements for a scooter rental to tour the island the following day.
When I woke up after a noisy and restless night, I made a last-minute decision to cancel the scooter and book a half-day tour instead. I scrambled to eat breakfast, pack a bag, and make lunch in order to join an island tour. This trip did not include the highlights of Rapa Nui National Park, but we did stop at one of the sites I really wanted to visit: Ahu Akivi.
Tourist map of Rapa Nui
This was our first stop and the only ahu (platform) with statues facing the ocean. All the other (finished) moai face inland towards the villages and the people they offer protection to. Our guide told us the history and legend of these warriors.
The tour van then stopped at a couple of ruins and the hill where the “top hats” of the statues had been mined. They are made of a different, softer rock than the moai themselves. Only noblemen were able to commission and afford them.
Our group also checked out a single moai, which had free access. Still, I was glad I didn’t rent a scooter, because I wouldn’t have had a guide, wouldn’t have been able to enter most sites, and would have had to drive myself.
Near the airport, we visited Ahu Tahira, which was part of the Vinapu site. Here, we mainly saw toppled statues, remnants of the platform, and other ruins.
The view over the Rano Kau crater and its lake was spectacular. Our guide told us the story of the Birdmen here (which is depicted in the 1994 movie Rapa Nui), because the actual O’Rongo site and village were closed because of a landslide. This was unfortunate, since it is one of the highlights on the island. The museum documenting the history of Easter Island was also closed (I was told, for political reasons). It left me disappointed to pay so much money to come here and to then face unexpected closures and raised prices. My research hadn’t mentioned any of these.
When I returned home around 2pm, fellow hostel guests Gerd and Pauline had cooked up a wonderful lunch and they invited me to join them. Since I’d been making basic meals every day, this was a welcome and wholesome surprise. Speaking French didn’t come too easy, though, after all this Spanish.
A nice and welcome surprise upon my return from the tour: a hearty Mozambique-style lunch
That night was the opening ceremony of the PanAmerican va’a (outrigger canoe) races by Ahu Tiata. The location by the island’s main harbor was a half-hour walk and I arrived late for the festivities.
Nevertheless, I could enjoy the last singing and dancing acts, which reminded me of the annual heiva festivities of French Polynesia.
And I was happy to spot a few new-to-me moai and watch the local scene on my stroll back home.
The big highlight of my trip happened on my last full day. I had booked the main island tour with the same company, Hanave. It only runs on certain days, hence me taking a different tour the previous day. Our guide was very talkative and explained everything much longer in Spanish than in English, so our small group of gringos often lost focus and each stop dragged on.
If you go to Easter Island and only do one excursion, the “full day tour” is the way to go. We began with the more boring sites of Vaihu, a reconstructed village, and Akahanga, which contained ruined platforms and toppled statues.
One of the highlights of the island is Rano Raraku, also called “the quarry”. This is a magical place with a spiritual aura and significant historical value. On this hill, all the moai were created—carved from the volcanic rock—before being transported, upright, to their destined platform.
Many statues were never finished, so the hillside is scattered with mostly erect moai. Some of them stood taller than others, which has to do with the erosion of the terrain.
The idea had been to reach Anakena Beach for lunch, but lunchtime came and went due to our “slow” and talkative guide. I was glad I snuck in a sandwich while others had a toilet break.
The next stop on our day tour was Tongariki, which we spotted from the quarry earlier. This row of 15 statues on the same platform is awe-inspiring and another highlight of Easter Island. We circled the site, which allowed photography from all angles. This is a very popular site for sunrise as well.
Before finishing our tour at the beach, we made a quick stop at Te Pito Kura, which sports a unique, perfectly round magnetic stone believed by Rapa Nui people to hold spiritual energy.
This is also the site of the largest statue that was ever successfully erected on Easter Island. While currently lying face down with a broken neck, the Paro moai once stood 10 meters (33 feet) tall.
It was already 3:30pm by the time we reached Anakena Beach, our final destination on the tour. Here, we were allowed one hour of “free time.” I found a spot under the palm trees for my second sandwich and took in my surroundings. The beach was quite stunning, with white sand and clear water. I had not expected that. Surrounded by grass and palm trees, it surely looked tropical and nothing like the rocky shoreline I’d experienced until then.
Rested and with a full belly, I walked up to more moai on higher ground. This felt like another unique location, what with the calm bay, exotic sand and palms, and a cultural touch…
Of course, I had to dip my toes in the South Pacific waters. I hadn’t brought a bathing suit, because I did not expect pretty beaches or hot enough weather for a swim!
Quick rest by the beach
Our tour ended in town around 5pm. Everyone I met that day had planned a sunrise tour—with the same company—to Tongariki, written up in guidebooks as a must-do. I’d spent a lot of money on excursions already, so had no intention to go the following morning. But when I heard that others managed to get a deal when booking three trips at the same time, I tried that approach, since I had gone on two other tours with Hanave. I just hadn’t booked everything at the same time. The employee consulted the owner of the travel agency and, yes, they allowed me to join the next morning at a discount. Otherwise, I’d have to pass.
That evening, I revisited Ahu Tahai for a second, and better, sunrise. I had to go, because it was only a 15-minute walk from the hostel.
And then, my fifth day on Easter Island, started and finished with a super early start at 4:30am and a slow sunrise behind the moai of Tongariki. It was another magical experience.
After packing up and checking out of my hostel, I lucked out. The hostel owner had to pick up paying guests at the airport and offered me a ride for free. Soon enough, I was on a plane back to the mainland of South America and this special trip felt like a different world and a distant memory already.
Early morning pose in front of the fifteen statues
Yes, it was expensive. And yes, some parts felt commercial and rubbed me wrong, but I am very glad I jumped on the chance to visit this faraway destination with its intriguing history.
Sunset across from my hostel
For anyone interested in the expenses of my five days on Easter Island, here is an overview:
- Return flight from Santiago to Hanga Roa: $568
- National Park fee: $102
- Three guided tours: $130
- Food: $30 (one dinner out at $12, bread, milk, and vegetables bought on the island; other ingredients brought from the mainland)
- Accommodation (hostel Vieroto): $198 for four nights
- Souvenirs: $16
- Taxis to and from Santiago airport to Bella: $24
The total cost for my trip comes to $1,068, which was a little bit lower than my estimated $1,100–$1,200.
I wore long clothes, hiking shoes, and a rain jacket, wore my long and warmest clothes, and packed everything else in a small backpack: my big camera, phone, tablet, clothes, toiletries, stainless steel water bottle, snacks, and dinner items. It was tight. 🙂
Can you believe all this fit in a small backpack?
Next up: Concluding our three-year South America journey the same way we started it, with three weeks at an Airbnb in a city.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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January 13, 2026 at 20:20
Wow, looks fabulous! I’m so glad you went! Really a lifetime event. Now I have to go sometime.
January 24, 2026 at 10:13
Hello Marie,
This destination was definitely special! And a very different way of traveling than our usual “take your time” and “immerse yourself” camper life. 🙂 I hope you get to visit Easter island one day.
January 13, 2026 at 21:03
Thanks for taking me along on your milestone birthday trip. The drums in the first video seem appropriate for your arrival.
Cliff’s birthday was January 9, and I made him an iron skillet dish that featured spinach, olive oil, beans, tomato sauce, and several eggs on top: healthy, like one of your food snapshots.
Enjoy your 50th year to the hilt, Liesbet!
January 24, 2026 at 10:14
Thanks for the wishes, Marian! And that meal for Cliff’s birthday sounds delicious, hearty, and healthy!
January 13, 2026 at 21:43
Great idea to do something really special for your 50th birthday. This looks amazing; I’d love to go someday myself!
January 24, 2026 at 10:20
Hi Lexie,
For some reason, I believe that you will make it to Easter Island one day! And, yes, I wanted to do something special for my 50th. As a matter of fact, I’m planning to do the same for every milestone birthday from now on. 🙂
January 13, 2026 at 22:33
this sounds like an incredible choice for a 50th birthday !
January 24, 2026 at 10:22
Thanks, Beth. I think so too! Easter island is a special destination for any occasion. 🙂
January 13, 2026 at 23:57
Incredible experience! A fascinating peek into history. A 50th birthday deserves a bit of splurge.
January 24, 2026 at 10:29
Hi Pete,
I agree! Special birthdays require special treats and celebrations. Easter island fit that bill. 🙂
January 14, 2026 at 02:36
What a fabulous and utterly memorable gift to yourself! I would absolutely LOVE to visit Easter Island. It looks like one of those places that succeeds in transcending its commerciality.
Happy birthday, Liesbet! 🙂
January 24, 2026 at 14:12
Thanks, Jackie. I bet you that whenever you all make it to South America for a while, you’ll be able to “hop over” to Easter Island at some point. But first: Morocco and Mongolia, right?
January 14, 2026 at 07:28
Glad you finally got to go! And a five day excursion anywhere would’ve been much more than that, so seeing Easter Island was a bargain. Way to spend a fiftieth birthday!
January 24, 2026 at 14:20
Thanks, Alex. I sure think Easter Island was a great destination for my 50th. To be honest, I have no idea how much a five-day vacation anywhere would cost as we never do this kind of thing. The Easter Island trip was my first destination and vacation like this in decades. I guess we better keep traveling the way we are to keep expenses in check!
January 14, 2026 at 09:08
Liesbet, this is not at all what I picture when I think of FP Islands. I can see why you’d want to visit. It is unique, rugged, and mysterious. The sunrise and sunset photos with the moai in the background are worth the trip. Treating yourself to something this special on your 50th birthday – priceless.
January 24, 2026 at 14:23
Hi Suzanne,
Yes, Easter Island was a special, one of a kind trip and adventure. What reminded me of French Polynesia was the cultural part – the singing, dancing, music, canoe racing, statues. Some of the beaches in FP are much more stunning, but that territory is so diverse and huge that some island groups consist of steep, rocky islands, while others are atolls and sand.
January 14, 2026 at 10:40
I’m really glad you got to do that sunrise trip at the end. It all looks amazing, but those shots are truly stunning.
January 24, 2026 at 14:24
Hi Anabel,
I’m very happy that the sunrise trip was meant to be, as it surely became a highlight. I hadn’t expected that when I arrived on the island – that I was going to do it or that it would be a cool experience.
January 14, 2026 at 11:32
You make me want to re-read Thor Heyerdahl’s Aku Aku. I’m reading Kon-tiki for the first time–can’t believe I waited so long.
January 24, 2026 at 14:29
Hi Jacqui,
Those books are good recommendations. I first heard about Thor Heyerdahl in Norway, when I was a teenager on vacation with my parents. I actually didn’t expect to find references about him on Easter island. Not a lot of Americans know who he is. I should put those books on my TBR list as well!
January 15, 2026 at 10:23
Wonderful. Your pictures are great. I know it must have been so impressive in person. I love the top hats! And the island looks lovely.
January 24, 2026 at 14:32
Hi Duwan,
Easter Island was a quick trip that packed a punch. I guess this is how most people travel, though. But for me is was very different from what I’m used to and definitely felt like more of a vacation than the RV life. I just wish now that I sat with the statues longer to reflect.
January 15, 2026 at 15:56
Glad you made it to Rapa Nui before leaving South America, Liesbet! Your journey would not have been complete in my mind.
January 24, 2026 at 14:34
Hi Annie,
I agree that an exploration of South America isn’t complete without a visit to Easter island. That being said, though, there is nothing latino about Rapa Nui, other than the language. Everything there reminded me more of the South Pacific than Latin America. But it was special and I’m glad I went. The same goes for the Galapagos islands. They are a must-see offshore destination in South America as well.
January 17, 2026 at 13:30
What an amazing trip! It’s hard to imagine the scale of the moai from the photos – I can only imagine how impressive they must be “in person”. And your shrimp ceviche made my mouth water – yum! Honestly, food is really the only thing that motivates me to travel. 😉
January 24, 2026 at 14:38
Hi Diane,
It’s all about food. I agree! Except… Eating out doesn’t always end well. This was my only meal out on the island and it gave me diarrhea! The night before I was flying back (and had planned the sunrise tour) I sat on the toilet for a while… Yeah, I know. TMI. But I know you can handle it and it proves a point that cooking at home offers more advantages than healthy and cheap meals.
I must have some photos of the moai with people next to them, to give an idea about their size. But I seem to always single out the photos without other people in it. In this case a “crowded” photo would have offered a better perspective.
January 25, 2026 at 13:22
I always avoid having other people in my photos, too – just my personal preference. (And I guess it might be a privacy issue these days, too; especially if you’re posting photos online.)
I laughed at your “TMI” – yep, I can handle it. (But I’d rather not… “handle” it.) 😉
January 26, 2026 at 15:24
🙂
January 18, 2026 at 19:41
What an amazing and memorable birthday trip! Thanks for sharing, Liesbet.
January 24, 2026 at 14:41
My pleasure, Natalie. I had hoped to post the Easter Island blog a bit sooner, but it took a while to create and I have been extremely busy with work, research, and caretaking duties.
January 23, 2026 at 10:15
What a truly amazing and magical island, Liesbet. Those statues look amazing. I’ve only ever seen pictures of them, but to be close to them must have been something you’ll never forget. So pleased you went and had a great time. What a way to celebrate 50 years on this planet we call home.
January 24, 2026 at 14:45
Hi Hugh,
A visit to Easter Island was certainly a great 50th birthday gift. I’m very glad I allowed myself to actually go, explore, and enjoy this magical place.
Being in the presence of the statues is awe-inspiring, especially when nobody else is around, which is super rare. Still, after seeing photos of the statues beforehand (like you), I had expected this island and experience to be different than it turned out to be. It’s hard to explain, but the restrictions, commercialism, and popularity took away some of the anticipated magic.
January 25, 2026 at 05:59
That’s a shame, isn’t it? Commercialism seems to be taking over everything, making many events less special than they once were. I’m glad to have lived in an age before major commercialism. It’s a little like life before social media.
January 26, 2026 at 15:23
Hi Hugh,
Yup. I am very happy that my childhood didn’t involve social media or smart gadgets as well. And, my first cameras were from before the digital era. Although digital photography did open many doors. I’m also glad I don’t have to raise kids in this world, while they are buried behind their devices, acting all spoiled and entitled.