New Hampshire’s attractive White Mountains are located 150 miles (241km) northeast of our current home base in Massachusetts. It takes a little over three hours to get there in our van (as opposed to 2.5 hours by car), since we stick to an average highway speed of 55-60mph (90km/h) in Zesty. This consumes less diesel, and we rarely have to pass anyone!
White Mountain National Forest was our destination this past week. It is huge, at 800,000 acres (which expand into Maine), attracts millions of visitors annually, and offers countless recreation possibilities, like 1,200 miles of hiking trails. When Mark and I returned from visiting people in Maine and Vermont in June, we drove through this stunning area and were impressed. We vowed to return for a proper immersion.
(Scroll over or click on images to read photo captions in the galleries.)
Fearing we wouldn’t find a free campsite in the forest if we left on a Saturday, we scrambled to make a Friday departure happen – finish work projects, laundry, shopping for the in-laws, and loading up most of our belongings, clothes, kitchenware, dog gear, and food by Thursday evening. I biked to the clinic for a blood test before breakfast, we did some last-minute packing and moving stuff into the camper, and at 9:30am we were ready to head out. Except, our radio (which is a small computer containing our GPS and needed apps, like iOverlander) didn’t work.
Our car radio/GPS
For an hour, Mark tried every trick in the book, but to no avail. The only option was to reset the unit to manufacturer’s default, which meant losing EVERYTHING he ever installed and created. Hours and hours of work; too much to deal with on Friday. We used my iPad for directions and he attempted to reinstall a few things while I bought and stored groceries for the week.
Needless to say, we arrived much later in the woods than planned. By 3pm, all the free campsites (and probably the paid ones as well) in three different regions were taken. Darn. It was busy, since the White Mountains are the playground of urban areas in New England and it is summer. An hour away from the region we hoped to stay, we found a pull-out along a mountain road and called it quits at 5pm. It beat a Walmart parking lot or driving all the way back to our room above the garage.
The spot was close to traffic, which started before dawn as most hikers attempted to climb one of the presidential peaks (Mt. Jefferson) along this dirt road. Tiny biting bugs made it through our screens and the nights were sticky. It was one of those situations where you have to pick: sheet and sweating or no sheet and bug bites. We didn’t sleep well.
Our serene creek to rest and have happy hour
The saving grace of this otherwise uninspiring “campsite” was the proximity of a creek, which we could hear from the van and which offered a respite from the passing cars. We discovered, again, how Maya loves creeks, scooping up water in her mouth, trotting along the rocks, wagging her tail. Just like in Colorado. And, the White Mountains consist of many rivers. Just like the Rockies.
On Sunday, we planned an early start in order to find parking at a popular trailhead. We succeeded and had a fabulous time hiking the 5-mile Zealand Trail to the Zealand Falls and hut. The path was easy until the last stretch, a vertical climb over boulders.
Mark decided to add another 3 miles by following the strenuous, rocky trail to a viewpoint and back. Maya and I stayed behind, relaxing on the rocks under a cloudy sky. Her paws and my headaches couldn’t handle the extra effort.
Mark’s view from the top of the Zealand Trail
That afternoon, we returned to one of the free campgrounds and snagged a fantastic spot, raised and shady, with our own private creek. This was to be our base for the remaining three days.
One of those days, we walked to the end of the dirt road (1.5 miles) and followed a path along the rushing river for a mile, before turning back. Another day, it rained, so we stayed home.
On our last day – Wednesday – we opted to hike Sugarloaf Mountain trail. This moderate 3.5-mile path combined two summits, North and Middle Peak, and offered multiple viewpoints. While not very long, it was uphill the entire time and involved a bit of huffing and puffing and sweating from me. The views were fantastic and the weather perfect!
While the start of our little getaway was far from ideal, we managed to make the most of our stay with a good balance of exercise and relaxation. There is so much to see and do in this area, that a return visit might be necessary!
Another – failed – attempt for a group photo. Even the sun threw a kink into the process!
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August 1, 2020 at 15:17
Nice getaway…good for you! I’m curious as to why you keep returning to the garage apartment. Can’t you keep traveling around? Once you completed the required quarantine in Maine, you could have explored that entire state, which has a lot to offer.
August 2, 2020 at 12:21
Hi Leslie!
Good question, with multiple answers. 🙂 If we had it our way, we’d be traveling in Zesty in Wyoming, Montana, or Colorado right now. We have little interest in Maine, compared to other US regions. There are no decent boondocking possibilities in Maine and New England, except the White Mountains. We tried in the past and have explored this state on multiple occasions… Plus, we needed to return to MA for several doctors’ visits and to help out Mark’s parents whenever possible. That was the past, throughout July. We initially planned to leave August 1st.
Now, we are here because of work. Mark has a job with the Census and I will complete my memoir. Both are not possible from our van. So, convenience, comfort, and the choice to work right now (better to make some money instead of just being stuck) are keeping us here another two months. For good or bad…
August 1, 2020 at 17:31
Stunning views! Maya loves Mark’s ear, doesn’t she? Very cute.
August 2, 2020 at 12:23
Haha! Maya loves EVERYTHING about Mark. For some reason she is incredibly attached and latched on to him from the beginning. Not always a good thing (as this causes issues for me sometimes), but if that’s her only “flaw’, we take it! 🙂
August 1, 2020 at 17:57
These are fantastic photos, Liesbet. I’m happy you enjoyed your time with nature. I love that last shot!
August 2, 2020 at 12:26
Hi Jill! In nature, I find peace. Hummingbirds for you; babbling brooks for me. 🙂 My monkey mind still spins, but I managed to not turn my computer on for an entire week. Another doctor’s appointment had us return to civilization too early for our liking.
August 2, 2020 at 18:15
A week without the computer sounds wonderful!
August 3, 2020 at 09:16
Right!? I’m looking forward to more of that next year. 🙂
August 1, 2020 at 18:45
Hi, Liesbet – I love how you and Mark are always prepared to make the best of all situations (regardless of rocky starts). I’m glad that this adventure turned out so well for you. Your photos are absolutely gorgeous!
August 2, 2020 at 12:28
Hi Donna! We took inspiration from you and packed a few hikes in while we were in the mountains. 🙂 I prefer flatter circumstances, but, according to Mark, those are not “hikes”. Haha. I guess I prefer walking to hiking, according to that definition. Or, I prefer “easy” hiking to moderate or strenuous trails! As we age, we seem to take disappointments a bit better.
August 1, 2020 at 19:19
Hi Liesbet, getting that perfect park up seems hard to achieve during summer, we avoided the North Island (NZ) for that very reason. Though having said that your hikes certainly made up for it. The Zealand Falls and Sugarloaf mountain both stunning places. I am pleased you have another home-base. I would imagine it is less stressful being part-time than full-time motorhomers?
August 2, 2020 at 12:36
Hi Suzanne!
We should have known better about the crowdedness in the White Mountains over the summer weekends. I think we’ve been pretty spoiled in the past, and especially out west, to not needing to take other campers into account (too much). Florida over the winter was busy as well, but because we’re flexible (and there are more options), it worked out OK. Here, in New England, choices to boondock are restricted and campground fees are high (and they’re usually fully booked over the summer).
This “home base” in Massachusetts has been our official residence for fifteen years, but we usually only stop in for a few weeks a year, to see family, friends, and doctors. This time, it’s different. Because of Covid (and Mark’s job being postponed by two and a half months), we will end up being here (on and off) for almost six months. Crazy!
It’s good to have this place, but it’s not all that comfortable. Mark compares it to living in a hotel room (as it has its own bathroom, entrance, and small fridge) for months on end… Not ideal. But, it is less stressful right now, for sure. If we had it our way, though, we’d still be full-timers. Soon…
August 1, 2020 at 20:35
Hi Liesbet, Glad your getaway to the White mountains turned out well despite a bumpy start. Beautiful scenery and the hikes sound wonderful. Thanks for sharing your fantastic photos.
August 2, 2020 at 12:37
Hi Natalie! I’m glad you enjoyed your virtual travels with me. It was nice to be in nature again, to hike, and to take interesting photos. It had been a while. 🙂
August 2, 2020 at 03:44
As a little girl, I remember reading about Nathaniel Hawthorne’s Ernest and The Great Stone Face.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Stone_Face_(Hawthorne)
Thanks for including so many scenes in this post. The story I read relied only on line drawings.
In spite of early glitches, you seem to have ended up with smiles. Good to see you and the “fam” here!
August 2, 2020 at 12:42
The New Hampshire mountains appear to be very rocky, Marian. But, we didn’t decipher any faces or special features during our hikes. Out west, we have visited rock formations similar to the one from Hawthorne, in red and grey stone. Like reading cloud formations, those special features bring a smile to our faces.
We had a good time in the forest. A nice distraction from our current “normal” room-life. 🙂 I wanted to create this post before the usual topics are covered, in the beginning of the month.
August 2, 2020 at 19:28
Loved this! Keep calm and carry on, as they say!
August 3, 2020 at 09:21
Will do! In a couple of months. 🙂
August 2, 2020 at 07:41
Sorry about the bugs but it looks like a beautiful area. I think your group shot is awesome.
August 2, 2020 at 12:45
Thanks, Alex. We do have fun with our crazy dog… Thing is that I need thirteen decent family portraits every year, to create a new calendar for my family at Christmas. Maya has not been cooperative in that pursuit! 🙂 But we do like the spontaneous results that occur in these shots.
August 2, 2020 at 09:05
Looks like a beautiful place to escape to!
August 2, 2020 at 12:46
It was pretty sweet, Ingrid. And much cooler and less humid than the coastal region we currently are. As long as you don’t show up over the weekend, there is potential to camp and hike in peace. 🙂
August 2, 2020 at 10:54
Despite the problems, what a lovely get-away. Your family pictures are wonderful. What could be better–the two of you and Maya. I love how you said Maya “scooped water up with her mouth”. I like that image.
August 2, 2020 at 12:50
Hi Jacqui! We like those family shots as well and embrace time spent in nature, just the three of us.
We first thought it was funny how Maya would jump in the creeks and walk back and forth, nudging the water. She didn’t drink it, but let the water enter and leave her mouth. Then, we realized that it’s because dogs (except for chow chows) sweat through their mouth and this is her way to cool off, by scooping up water through her mouth. Whenever she was thirsty, she would drink the water afterwards.
August 2, 2020 at 16:25
I adore this part of the USA and am glad that you were able to score a good campsite for most of the visit. Have you guys thought of visiting upstate New York? So much awesome there. It was my stomping ground before I set sail.
August 3, 2020 at 09:16
I’m happy going and exploring anywhere. My guess is upstate New York (and the Adirondacks) are similar to the White Mountains. Mark grew up there. I’m also curious about the Great Lakes. I’d like to summer there one year too as I’ve only driven by so far. This country has a lot to offer! Mostly in the summer, though, and we will have “lost” that this year.
August 2, 2020 at 19:15
Glad you finally got a good spot. We try not to travel on the weekends or late Friday afternoons but it doesn’t always work out and we end up driving around for hours looking for a place to stay. We always get lucky but not everyone is. When we were in Grand Teton and camped outside of Yellowstone we often times when we left for our early morning excursions (at 5 am) we’d see rigs who obviously spent the night in parking lots and other places that didn’t allow camping. So glad it wasn’t us – especially when we were traveling with Ellen and Scott.
White Mountain NF looks wonderful. Love all those views!
August 3, 2020 at 09:21
Hi Duwan! I’m glad all your camping options worked out when traveling with friends. I was thinking about how you managed to arrange all that. 🙂 Some luck comes in handy. And, not being too big.
We like the “first come, first serve” principle, as we aren’t fans of planning and arranging things and then being “stuck”. But, if you don’t arrive early enough or on the right day, you could be screwed! We always tell ourselves that we will figure it out, until we actually have to figure out a less attractive alternative and drive around for hours, haha.
August 2, 2020 at 19:40
What a beautiful part of the country! I’m sorry you had a few hiccups at the beginning, but you managed to have a wonderful few days away. I love the pictures of Maya licking Mark’s ear… pure love.
August 3, 2020 at 09:24
Hi Janis! Yes, Maya loves Mark and is infatuated with him. She didn’t keep her eyes off the path he disappeared on, while she and I waited for an hour and a half until he returned. There was even som whining. We seem to have a lot of photos where she licks his (or my) face. Funny and sweet. 🙂
August 2, 2020 at 22:34
Liesbet, It is great to get out and explore a bit, while we can. Darn, on the issues with your radio. We do rely on GPS and specific apps. The “reset” is a scary option. I always appreciate when you candidly share the real world when camping. Not always idyllic conditions. Darn on the bugs and/or sweating. Yay, about the creek. I am happy your remaining days were a different story. Stunning photos of the scenery. Your “failed” photo…….the best!xx
August 3, 2020 at 09:29
Hi Erica!
Thanks for your input. I pride myself to “tell it as it is” and I’m glad you appreciate that. It’s tricky as magazines prefer the glossy versions of stories and I want to stay true to reality in all my writing. My beta readers called my memoir “brutally honest”; hopefully I can keep that up.
There are always multiple sides to a story and to a place. Perfect doesn’t exist. Otherwise, we’d be living there. 🙂
August 3, 2020 at 03:10
I love the last ‘failed’ shot!
August 3, 2020 at 09:30
Based on the reactions here, that last shot might not be a failure after all. 🙂
August 3, 2020 at 06:47
What stunning scenery, and I love all the greenest of the tress and vegetation, Liesbet. Was there any signs of life in the creeks and rivers? The water looks so clean and refreshing. I guess it comes down from the mountains?
Hope the problem with the radio was sorted out? I hate to think of all that hard work being lost.
August 3, 2020 at 09:36
Hi Hugh!
We didn’t see any life forms in the rivers. Not even fish. The water was ice cold, coming from the mountains. This area gets a lot of snow in the winter.
Yes, our radio is pretty much back to normal right now. Before doing the hard reset (the last resort), Mark saved some of the apps on a memory stick and reinstalled them afterwards. He adjusted all the settings again too and we seem to be back in business. The annoying thing was that he actually had turned this radio on and installed updates the day before our departure, and all was fine. Ideally, the glitch would have happened then, so we wouldn’t have lost precious time the day we left. Oh well…
August 4, 2020 at 06:00
Technology can sometimes decide to test our patience. I recall a wine-cooler deciding to go faulty on the morning we were going on a cruise. We couldn’t get the alarm on it to stop beeping. At the time, we were living in an apartment block and were worried that the neighbours above and below us would hear the alarm. In the end, we switched the power off to it and the alarm stopped beeping just before we left to catch our flight. All holiday, I couldn’t think of anything else other than that alarm deciding to go off again while we were away. Fortunately, it didn’t.
I’m glad Mark got the radio working again.
August 4, 2020 at 10:54
Oh Hugh, that’s quite the story. So stressful. But, all I could think was “I hope none of that wine went bad!” Or, I hope you managed to transport all the wine into a normal or secondary fridge. I’m sorry to read that this event caused so much grief on your vacation.
Technology, right? There are good and bad experiences with it and I don’t think this will change any time soon. My motto is, “The less gadgets, the less (potential) issues!”
August 5, 2020 at 05:54
Haha, yes. I suppose the same could be said about people too. I like to think of myself as a peoples’ person, but there have been occasions where even I was at breaking point with some people.
Yes, the wine was all ok. It just needed re-chilling when we got back. Didn’t take long, although the wine cooler had be replaced.
August 5, 2020 at 17:08
Oooh, don’t get me started on people, Hugh! Ever since we ran a business, trying to make each customer happy and suffering from the consequences, we have become quite bitter about certain people-related aspects and interactions… Time for a glass of wine!
August 3, 2020 at 10:10
Beautiful! This brings back so many wonderful memories of our trip to VT and NH two summers ago. Glad you were able to get away and that the camping was salvaged by that great campsite for the final days!
August 4, 2020 at 10:38
Hi Lexie! I didn’t realize you spent quality time in the VT and NH area, recently. As long as the bug population behaves, it is pretty and enjoyable territory. Really, as good as it gets in New England. 🙂
August 3, 2020 at 17:21
Fab photos, and knew you couldn’t sit still much longer lol 🙂
August 4, 2020 at 10:41
Is this you, Debby? You came up as “anonymous”. Hopefully not another WordPress glitch. You know us – and our itchy feet – well. 🙂 Luckily, the New England area is pretty safe right now and people respect the mask-wearing and 6ft distance, even on the trails.
August 3, 2020 at 22:27
Such stunning vistas! I think I would be staying with you and Maya though as mark went onward. Sorry to hear about the headaches. Hopefully not a recurring problem.
It was wonderful that the second campsite afforded a quieter location. In reading you reply to a question in the comments I can see why you are staying where you are for now. Life is a balance.
August 4, 2020 at 10:48
True words, Sue. Everything in life is a balance. We will try and make the most of this less than ideal situation. It looks like you and Dave are doing the same. It helps to live in an exciting, beautiful area. 🙂
Unfortunately, my headaches are a reoccurring problem and have been for many years. Every time I hike (uphill) in warm conditions, I get headaches. It’s worse in the tropics and with high humidity. It’s quite simple: each time I exert myself, a headache follows. My doctor recommends taking Tylenol before my efforts, instead of during or afterwards. It’s either that or not hike anymore (which Mark keeps questioning my sanity about).
Mark walks much faster than me as well and has a much higher endurance, so I’m trying to be more smart about it these days and realize my limitations.
August 4, 2020 at 11:34
I’m glad to see things improved from the first disastrous attempt to find a campsite. You did get some beautiful photos.
Despite the headaches–literal and figurative–it must be incredible to get to see so much of the country.
August 5, 2020 at 16:58
Hi JH! Seeing the country is going extremely slow right now. Let alone exploring the world. One day, one month, one year! But, this was indeed a nice break from the computer. Ready to follow in your footsteps (the editing ones) right now! 🙂
August 4, 2020 at 15:29
Liesbet, your photos of all the falls and creeks make the area look inviting. There’s nothing quite like camping close enough to water to be able to hear the falls or the babble of a brook. I’m not surprised to hear about the difficulties of finding decent campsites, free or otherwise. Starting tomorrow, we have a couple of days of “October in August” temps and humidity so we decided to sneak away for a quick camping trip. And even though we’re camping mid-week, it was tough to find a nice spot.
I think that parents are realizing that, with or without COVID, the kids are back in school soon so it’s the end of the summer rush to have a good time. I don’t begrudge them some outdoor time, but I look forward to September when things calm down a bit so campsites will be easier to find. ~James
August 5, 2020 at 17:02
Hi James! I hope you and Terri have the most amazing camping experience. We all need this so badly now. So much so, that we are willing to deal with more inconveniences than usually. 🙂 Being able to listen to rushing water when falling asleep, has been a favorite of mine ever since I started camping and later, boating. Although in that last case, you don’t want to anchor too close to those breaking reefs or lapping waves… Have fun in nature!!
August 4, 2020 at 19:49
Looks like a gorgeous area, despite the bugs and humidity, Liesbet. Glad you found a place to camp. You are right about being early birds to get the best spots. Even with our “early” start to June Lake near Mammoth, we were turned away. We ended up at a different lake and still had a wonderful time. I’ve been trying to keep up on Instagram while on my blogging break. Enjoy the rest of your summer!
August 5, 2020 at 17:05
Hi Terri! I’m glad your alternative campground worked out. First come, first serve sometimes “serves” us, but other times not so much. It’s interesting how our life stories often line up – from particular dog trouble to certain camping experiences – despite both of us being on opposite sides of the country. I have seen some of your photos on Instagram, but l should dive into it a bit more. Enjoy your travels and blogging break!
August 5, 2020 at 02:13
The freedom of the open road again, Liesbet! Well, almost 🙂 🙂 The size and scale of the US and those endless roads never cease to amaze me, and that’s definitely a beautiful area. Glad you could get there.
August 5, 2020 at 17:06
The open road remains very inviting, Jo, but for now, we have decided to stay put and “achieve”. 🙂 This was a nice “last hurrah” for a couple of months.
August 6, 2020 at 18:53
I’m glad you found a lovely campsite and were able to enjoy some hikes. I’m smiling at the thought of Maya playing in the creek! 🙂
August 7, 2020 at 21:09
Oh, Diane, the longer we have this dog of ours, the happier she is and we are. Every time I see that tail wag, I smile. Ideally, this happens in a creek or in nature, but even in our current room, whether it’s in anticipation of a treat, her dinner, when we play, or even in her dreams, it means joy to me.
August 26, 2020 at 02:13
Liesbet, the hikes you took in the White Mountains look beautiful. I agree with you about running water; it is such a peaceful sound. Wow, I’m surprised to read in the comments that you’re staying on in Massachusetts for a couple more months for work reasons. But it will be a great chance to work on your memoir revisions.
Jude
August 27, 2020 at 16:22
Hi Jude! Yes, this will be the longest period we have ever stayed in the same place, since 2003 (for me). Crazy when I think about it that way. We had one stint here, in the same room, over the summer in 2014 for health reasons. Other than that, the longest house sit we had, another summer, was 4.5 months. Anything else, camping, anchoring, visiting, house sitting, … has been way less than that!! But, like you pointed out, it is for good reasons – for safety (initially), to help out, and for work. All good! 🙂