I am behind with my blog posts. A lot. Blame this crazy life of ours.
I want to write about all the improvements we performed on Thirsty Bella and the heaps of preparations we went through to ship her abroad. And what it all cost. But those stories feel boring to me at the moment (and, until recently, also irrelevant and obsolete – right!).
I hoped to have this particular blog ready by Thanksgiving Day in the US – a more appropriate timing – but, on that day, we had bigger fish to fry in a once-again turned-upside-down-world. I promise an update soon, but I am not ready for it; I can’t handle reliving it all (without a happy ending so far).
Ever since we returned to the US from Baja California, Mexico, last spring, our friends from the western states have played a key role – offering us a driveway to park and camp or a room to stay, allowing us access to their bathroom, kitchen, and laundry facilities, showing us support (mentally, logistically, and physically), and providing advice, help, knowledge, or their skills.
Our gang near the top of an epic high-altitude hike in nature
These have been amazing experiences and the highlights of our many months of work, effort, focus, stress, and investments to get ready for the next big adventure: traveling throughout South America in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella.
Us and Thirsty Bella in Austin, Texas
California
It’s been a tough road this year, with nothing going according to plan. We entered the country in California for a quick visit to friends Janis, Paul, and Amy in San Diego. This was followed by a pit stop on our friend Diana’s property in Julian, to clean and photograph our previous truck camper, Temp, before heading to British Colombia to pick up a Lance 830 truck camper we’d paid a deposit for. Diana is someone we house and pet sat for in San Diego twice, years ago. We became friends, stayed in touch, and she’d asked in the past if we were interested in property sitting this place. Now was the time!
Unfortunately, the Canadian owner of our prospective camper backed out of the deal and we were back to square zero, in a state with extremely high fuel prices. We frantically looked for, researched, and inquired about another Lance 830 and left the Julian property sooner than planned to pursue one in Northern California.
High fuel prices in California (we didn’t stop here)
Idaho
Our next set of friends to help out were Katherine and Brandon, whom we met two short months earlier in Loreto, Baja California Sur. She bought a paperback of my memoir Plunge, we got along really well, and they even invited us to their condo in Loreto. They also offered up their small house in Boise, Idaho, if we needed a place to crash or change gears. And that’s what we did…
For two weeks in May, we happily slept in their one-bedroom home while switching truck campers. This sounds easier than it was! We had to make the well-used and rough-around-the-edges Lance 830 we just bought and picked up in Auburn, California, livable before our friends returned, and… we had to sell Temp and ideally our e-bikes as well. All within three weeks. The pressure was on!
Of course, another twist was thrown our way when a serious accident occurred in Mark’s family and he had to fly back to Massachusetts a week sooner than planned to help out. The pressure was on even more. We were in panic mode and worked 12 hours a day to be able to leave Boise quicker than expected and with only one camper.
Oregon
St. Helens
Our next base – for over two months! – became St. Helens, Oregon, about an hour north of Portland. Our camping friends Ellen and Scott hosted us in our camper in their front yard, while our truck was parked outside the fence. During this time, we frequented the facilities inside their small house, as filling up our grey (sinks and shower water) and black tank (toilet contents) would be inconvenient. We used Mark’s electric bike (I had sold mine by then) to shop for groceries and hardware and left the state for three weeks each – Mark flew to Massachusetts and I to Belgium and MA.
Summer progressed fast, hot, and in a rollercoaster manner as we discovered serious issues with our “new” Lance 830 and almost gave up on it. In between projects, we managed to have some fun in a national park and with our friends on the porch.
Hayden Island
A quick visit to our South African friend Margie (whom we met in 2008 while sailing in the Dominican Republic, where she still lives most of the year) and husband Terry provided a wonderful distraction from camper stress. This adorable and hospitable couple treated us to a boat ride on the Columbia River, a scrumptious dinner and breakfast, and a comfortable night on their houseboat near Portland.
Newport
And then, we were off to the Oregon coast, where Katherine and Brandon (from Boise, Idaho) were renovating a fixer-upper they recently bought. This was a short and fun visit, with a few projects – to help them and for ourselves – and loads of seafood and camaraderie. We hope to see the couple again on their BMW touring motorcycles in South America one of these years.
Bend
The end of August approached and stage one of our camper prep was mostly finished. There were only two major upgrades left, which we would tackle in Colorado. This one-week respite at our sailing and camping friend Patti’s house in Bend was therefore less stressful and busy than other stops. We had a pile of packages to pick up, a few smaller projects to finish, and lots of social time. We enjoyed sleeping in a real bedroom with en-suite bathroom, AC, and lots of space.
The five of us (Patti, her two dogs Koozie and Pekoe, Mark, Maya, and I) even managed a bit of sightseeing: an epic hike in Deschutes National Forest, a quick walk to a waterfall, and a stroll in bustling, downtown Bend and relaxed Sisters. It was still incredibly hot out; this never really let up for us.
Utah
Because of the incessant heat – and our need to pick up a new, DC refrigerator – we only stayed one night at the rental house of Mark’s nephew Randall, his wife Rebeccah, and their dog Duke in Salt Lake City. We enjoyed some walks and a lovely dinner together.
The following day, I finally met an old blogging friend of mine, Ryan, his wife Sheryl, and dog Athena in Southern SLC. Again, we were spoiled with good food, drinks, and company. Then, it was time for another serious drive and more projects.
Capitol of Utah in Salt Lake City
Colorado
We met Christine, daughter Sophie, and boyfriend Danny in Baja, Mexico, this past spring as well. Christine and I hit it off, after she bought a copy of Plunge from me in Loreto. We met up a few times on the peninsula and they gave us an open invitation to stay on their property in Ignacio, Colorado. Danny has a workshop and is a skilled welder and carpenter, so those were the cherries on top!
The three of us spent about two weeks in and near Danny’s workshop, used the kitchen and bathroom inside his empty house, embraced his help and skills building a new fridge cabinet and installing an extra freshwater tank, and joined the family on a camping trip in the mountains, where sweating was finally not an option.
The highlight for me was when we parked at Danny’s ranch and small cabin in Pagosa Springs, CO, for a few nights. The pack of (work) dogs, litter of kittens, free roaming horses and chickens, and view of Chimney Rock made this a magical place!
Christine brought us to Chimney Rock National Monument on her free day and she and Danny took me horse riding on their and their neighbors’ properties one evening. How cool is that?
Texas
Austin
Our next significant stop was Austin, Texas, where our friend Rachel still lives. She and I became friends in 2007, when Mark and I stayed at my ex-boyfriend Karl’s place for three months after finishing our Central American RV adventures (referenced in Plunge).
Unfortunately, we could only stay for one night – just enough time to pick up a mountain of packages, find reprieve in the pool and air-conditioned house, and enjoy a lovely dinner and breakfast together – because our replacement fridge was waiting for us in the Houston area and we needed to install it the following day. The brand-new fridge from SLC had been defective… Otherwise, we would have stayed in Colorado until the temperatures in Texas became manageable.
Houston
John and Harriet were RVing pioneers in the early 2000s, by driving to Panama and back in 99 days. They wrote a travel book about this experience and that’s how we eventually met them. After our own Central American journey using their guide, we visited them and their dog Brindle (who looked like Maya) in Houston. We returned to the same house fifteen years later, but now they have a rescue dog called Creamer.
Visit with John and Harriet in Houston, Texas
We caught up with them one evening and camped in their driveway. They invited us to use their condo in Galveston, which would have been perfect if the shipping of our camper from Galveston to Cartagena would have gone smoothly. Of course, it didn’t. But we eventually took them up on their offer, when we couldn’t handle the coastal heat and humidity anymore, after dealing with it in Texas for a month.
Again, the couple became instrumental in early November, when we used their Houston home and driveway to get Thirsty Bella ready for shipment to Colombia. Being able to sleep in the guestroom and use the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry facilities while packing flight baggage and organizing, securing, and wrapping up our home on wheels made this task so much easier.
A negative of being nomads is not having a comfortable home to take a breather, tools for major projects, a driveway to work on camper issues, improvements, and maintenance, an address to receive packages, and a tap to fill up our water tank, clean our vehicle, or give Maya a bath. We are extremely fortunate to have so many friends throughout the US and the world, who are happy to see us and to make our challenging lives a tad more comfortable, convenient, and easy! ¡Muchas gracias!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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November 27, 2022 at 14:57
What an odyssey, Liesbet. Your trials and tribulations have been monumental, but you and Mark have handled everything with grace … and a healthy sense of humor. The Tribe of Friends you have gathered is a testament to your indomitable spirits.
I know that you and Mark have been planning this adventure for a long time. Hopefully you will be reunited with Thirsty Bella very soon. Hugs, Terri
November 29, 2022 at 14:08
Hi Terri,
Thank you for your understanding and encouraging words. It’s been a crazy road these last months, and I’m not sure about that sense of humor. But, we are determined to get our camper here, despite the extra time, patience, and cost. Still no end in sight, unfortunately. I have to admit, we thought about giving up on the entire adventure, this last week, and researched return flights and dog regulations.
November 27, 2022 at 15:20
I hope you have an adventurous time in South America. Do you have a rough idea how long you will be there, or does preplanning go against the life of a nomad? I’m curious how the price of fuel compares to here?
November 29, 2022 at 14:12
Hi Pete,
You are starting to know me better and better regarding the whole planning concept. 🙂 First things first, and that’s finally getting our camper here. As long as that hasn’t happened, anything can change and the adventure might finish before it even begins! It almost did this last weekend.
So, while we hope to spend 2-3 years in South America (just to tell people something), I have yet to open a guidebook or a map and figure out where we will go.
The fuel stations in Cartagena, Colombia, advertise gasoline prices as $2 a gallon; much better than in the US. Once we start driving again.. 🙂
November 27, 2022 at 15:33
What a travelogue you have here. Gallivance calls it an odyssey, and I think that’ s better word for it. You have a detailed record here of past adventures as you set out on your next ones. I don’t think you ever need to apologize for being late to blog here, especially in your “once-again turned-upside-down-world.”
Soon we’ll hear about your fond reunion with Thirsty Bella. Forward ho!
November 29, 2022 at 14:14
Hi Marian,
We hope to hear soon about a certain vessel dropping our Thirsty Bella off in the port of Cartagena, but this is still to be determined. Once I write about that saga, anyone will scratch their heads. It’s been insane, the amount of bad luck and delays we’ve had. So many hiccups that I’ll have a hard time remembering them all!
During the prep work, our friends have been instrumental!
November 27, 2022 at 16:29
I can’t imagine dealing with all the stress and setbacks you’ve had this year, but it sounds as though your wonderful friends have made it (almost?) worthwhile. Here’s hoping your current crisis will resolve soon!
November 29, 2022 at 14:18
Hi Diane,
We are so grateful for our friends along the road. Of course, it was awesome to catch up and hang out and they have been instrumental on this journey, but I’m thinking that those meetups might have been even nicer without all the struggles and mental disappointments we’ve had this past year. Yet, our friends made us feel better and happier.
I think if Mark and I are honest, we might have approached things differently on hindsight, though. Because we’ve had such a tough year with disappointments, bad luck, and frustration. Luckily, our physical health has been fine. 🙂
November 27, 2022 at 17:57
I’m glad you had other friends in the Houston/Galveston area because we certainly were not in a good position to be of much help at the time you were here. I would say it was terrible timing, but at least I found a half-day to meet you briefly, something we had not managed in any other location over the years!
November 29, 2022 at 14:21
Hi Lexie,
I’m so glad I finally got to meet you. And like you mentioned, your area wouldn’t be suitable for our big camper anyway. But, I agree, John and Harriet were instrumental to our time in Houston, especially since we hadn’t seen them in a while and hadn’t been in touch much prior to our visit, so no expectations at all. And, they coincidentally have a condo in Galveston. How much better can it get?? 🙂
November 27, 2022 at 18:43
You managed to make the rounds of friends and driveways while dealing with a LOT of stress and uncertainty, Liesbet! This was a testament to your desire to change your lifestyle and you seem to have handled everything with patience and humor. Now that you are in Colombia, this will soon seem like a distant memory, I’m sure.
November 29, 2022 at 14:26
Hi Terri,
I hope you are right about our current struggles soon being a distant memory. At the moment, our patience is getting more than tested! The hardest part is that we still don’t know when Thirsty Bella will arrive, so we can’t make plans around locations, accommodations, logistics, paperwork,… yet.
We can’t thank our friends enough for making this journey in the US easier and more enjoyable.
November 27, 2022 at 19:14
Liesbet, thank you for this incredible retelling of recent events. Typically, I balk at reading a long post, but I always fly through yours, hanging on every word. Wow! I get what you are saying about not having a home base. At least you have a lot of incredible friends who step up when needed. Truly a testament to your character. May your current situation have a ‘happy ending’ very soon. Blessings
November 29, 2022 at 14:31
Hi Suzanne,
I hear you about long blog posts. I’m not a fan of them either – writing or reading them. I just find myself not blogging enough anymore and then, when I finally manage to catch up or put an experience or update out there it goes on forever. Especially when the post covers multiple weeks, or in this case, multiple months.
Thank you for sticking with it to the end! And for the wonderful wishes and sentiments. The “happy ending” is hanging on a very, very thin thread. We were supposed to be reunited with our camper this week, but too much got messed up, so it’s either going to be mid-December or early January… We think.
And, yes, I’m so grateful for all our friends, all over the world. Even here in Cartagena. A bonus of traveling and meeting people everywhere. 🙂
November 27, 2022 at 23:18
Hi, Liesbet – I remain in awe of how you and Mark deal with setbacks and challenges with calmness and balance. No wonder you both have such great friends around the world. You are remarkable people who others want to be around. Wishing you smooth sailing ahead.
November 29, 2022 at 14:34
Thank you for this amazing compliment, Donna! We are quite fortunate and unbelievably happy having friends all over the world, especially when things don’t go smoothly. But it would be even nicer to meet up with people without “needing them.”
I have to admit that our patience and determination has been wearing thin, lately, and we almost gave up on the whole adventure this past weekend. Enough is enough. But, here we are. Still in Colombia and still waiting for our home on wheels. 🙂
November 28, 2022 at 11:13
As we can attest, your friends love to see you coming because you bring not only your youthful energy and sense of adventure, but prepare wonderful food additions for the table and pitch in when needed around the house. You’re the best guests we have ever had!!! Love to you both, and happy birthday, Liesbet!
November 29, 2022 at 14:37
This is such a nice note, Gail. Your words warm my heart and you are such a gracious, positive, and wonderful friend. Thank you so much! We try to not take our friends’ hospitality for granted or take advantage of it. We appreciate every minute together and enjoy every slice of comfort offered. 🙂
November 28, 2022 at 17:19
Maybe I’ve told you this before but I don’t think one can do this life alone. Well, maybe they can, but why would they. When friends help you they become part of the journey. We have had so many people help us along the way.
I find it interesting that a few of these friends were brand new this year. Liesbet you have such a wonderful welcoming personality. I think it is one of your biggest assets in yours and Mark’s journey. We travel to take in the beauty of the world but sometimes that beauty is the new friendships we make along the way.
And I’m totally impressed at how well you stayed on track. You had big goals when you got back from Baja and you made your deadline to be in South America by the fall. You overcame lots of setbacks and have dealt with a lot of uncertainty.
I think this is a lovely ode to your friends!
November 29, 2022 at 14:44
Hi Duwan,
You of all people understand the importance of friends and safe harbors along the way. We both bubble with appreciation for every slice of comfort, help, and hospitality offered. I enjoy these visits so much that I sometimes wonder if we are becoming too old or worn out to keep this lifestyle going. Mark even said at times: “If you like staying in a house so much, maybe this is not the right lifestyle for you anymore.”
I agree with you that new friendships are one of the nicest things about travel, especially if we can maintain them. Your comment here is so heartfelt and well written, that I know you know how I feel about these connections. Thank you!
Yes, we tried to remain on track and had a lot of setbacks and delays. And, yes, we are in Colombia now, in the fall. But our camper is not and it’s looking like this adventure is not going to start until 2023 now. Once again, because things out of our control. We were supposed to start traveling in South America the beginning of November…
November 28, 2022 at 18:36
Liesbet, I think we can say “it takes a global village to live a nomadic lifestyle”. I am glad to read that you have a lot of incredible friends who step up when needed. I hope you, Mark and Maya are keeping well. Wishing you a satisfying solution to your current challenge.
November 29, 2022 at 14:45
Thank you so much, Natalie. For your well wishes and for summing it all up so nicely with your comment “it takes a global village to live a nomadic lifestyle.” I love that!
November 28, 2022 at 19:59
Wow, what a sojourn. What would we be without our friends? I hope things are settling somewhat in Colombia. No rush, we’re always here when you summon up the strength to write about it. Hugs <3
November 29, 2022 at 14:48
Hi dear Debby,
Thank you for continuing to follow along in our adventures and sagas. I think whenever I write the post about our mental condition and our bad luck to get the camper here, it will read like a true drama. Our friends have been of the utmost importance this year – online and in real life! Xxx
November 28, 2022 at 20:24
You and Mark are such open and positive people, you attract friends from all over the world. I’m so pleased that we met several years ago and have been able to get together multiple times since then. I know the past few months have been frustrating and stressful (to say the least) but having friends to help out and lighten your load is a blessing.
I look forward to reading about your South American adventure as it unfolds AND hearing your travel tales in person at some point when you return.
November 29, 2022 at 14:51
Hi Janis,
You are so right about the importance of friends. Just yesterday, we made new friends (Canadians) in Cartagena. They are fellow travelers waiting for their camper and they meant the difference between a terrible birthday and a fun and enjoyable one for me. Yes, we are grateful for these spontaneous encounters and connections.
To be honest, I’m surprised that you and I have been able to meet up so many times. Hurray for those circumstances and logistics to work out well! 🙂
November 29, 2022 at 21:38
What a year. Many ups and downs for you, but your friendships have helped get you through it. You are blessed to have so many friends 🙂
December 1, 2022 at 07:06
Hi Debra,
You summed it up well. I think our friendships have been the shining lights throughout this past year. Which is a good thing, because we won’t see many of them in the coming years (if ever again). Luckily, new friends will be made, starting here in Cartagena. I guess it’s one of the advantages of moving around so much. The good and the bad. There are lots of goodbyes and many hellos.
December 2, 2022 at 10:12
I hardly took a breath reading this, Liesbet.
Thank goodness for friends and friendship, yes? If I was living somewhere in the States, Mark, Maya, Bella and you would all be welcome to stop by and stay while you have to sort things out.
You guys have visited some wonderful places on this post, although I would pass on the ones with too much heat and humidity. Good to see you taking some time out for enjoyment and fun while visiting friends too.
I dread to think about what’s been going on since you wrote this post, but I hope everything is working out now and that you are reunited (or are soon to be reunited) with Bella.
December 3, 2022 at 15:07
Hi Hugh!
Whenever we visit Wales, we will make it a point to come and say hi to you both and Toby and Austin. Not sure if it will be with a camper – and a dog – in tow, though. 🙂
Yes, our friends were so important this year. We are grateful and happy to have made so many along the way and it is always nice to catch up (and take a hot, pressurized shower and do laundry, haha).
I sound like a broken record regarding our reunion with Thirsty Bella – still not happened and we have to keep looking (and paying for) accommodation, much longer than expected and planned. We are in our fourth apartment right now and at least one more to go. Maya has been miserable in Cartagena and doesn’t get any exercise. Hoping to be back in our home mid-December as of now…
December 4, 2022 at 09:56
I’ll keep everything crossed that Thirsty Bella arrives soon, Liesbet.
Poor Maya. I’d love to be there when you guys are travelling again and reach your first beach. I can only imagine how happy you all will be when it happens.
December 7, 2022 at 18:28
Haha, Hugh. Now that’s a nice thing to look forward to. Being camped on a beach (with shade) again with our home on wheels and all of us frolicking about! 🙂 Thanks for this wonderful vision, which might come true in a good week from now.