Many months ago, back in Ecuador, I invited my cousin and her husband to join us in the Cusco area of Peru when it would be time for their “winter vacation” in November/December 2023. They had visited us many times before, mostly when sailing on our then 35ft catamaran Irie. The idea of having them travel with us on the Baja peninsula in Mexico two years prior fell through and, last winter, when we had just arrived in Colombia, a visit had seemed too soon.
Plans were set in motion, with the only potential caveat our allotted time in Peru upon entering the country. When we crossed that border between Ecuador and Peru the end of July, Mark and I asked, pleaded, and begged for a six-month entry stamp at Peruvian immigration, something we knew friends had been able to obtain, which was one of the reasons we had picked this particular crossing. Our request was denied.
We received 90 days in the country with a “visa” expiration date of October 27th. Not enough time to cover my family’s visit. Yet, we did not despair. Despite the extension system in Peru having just been scrapped in early 2023 due to all the indigenous protests, we knew of ways to get more time in the country and gave my cousin the green light for a trip to Peru.
Fast forward to the end of October, when our time in the country was running out and my family had their holiday in the Cusco area sealed: from November 20th to December 6th. We had heard and read and learned that it was possible to drive to the small border of Kasani in Peru, park the car, check out at immigration, walk across the border into Copacabana, Bolivia, check in and out of the country there, and return to Peru to receive another 60-day entry stamp. With that stamp, you could either apply for a TIP (Temporary Import Permit) extension for the vehicle online or at the border. So, that was the plan…
On October 25th, with a couple of days to spare (experience had taught us that officials in South America don’t like to deal with things too far ahead of time and many extensions and permits are issued last minute), Mark and I set our plan in motion. Not only was a positive outcome of this border run necessary to spend time with my family and friends who would return from Canada to Cusco during this period, we also had skipped Machu Picchu, Arequipa, and Colca Canyon – highlights in Peru – counting on being able to see them during our extra time…
Driving east along Lake Titicaca
Our water and fuel tanks were topped up, our fridge was relatively empty, and our Peruvian soles had been spent (an issue when trying to fill up in gas stations around Puno that didn’t accept credit cards), just in case we wouldn’t be allowed back into the country anymore. It was important to us that neither our camper, nor our dog left Peru to not make things more complicated.
Looking towards Bolivia from the parked camper
So, we parked Thirsty Bella in a parking lot on the Peruvian side of the border around 9am and walked to immigration to inquire about our options. The first officer I talked to made my heart sink: “You are only allowed to stay 90 days out of every 180 days. You will have to leave the country for three months if you want to come back.”
Long line of people checking into Peru
I requested to speak to his boss, who came out momentarily and explained he could grant us an extra 60 days in Peru, but we had to leave the country and come back later. Mark and I were stamped out and walked across the border into Bolivia. There, at immigration, we were honest about our intentions again, but the official didn’t quite get why we only wanted to stay for a minute. After some back and forth, he agreed to stamp us into Bolivia, but he couldn’t provide us with an exit stamp until the end of the day. He suggested we came back at 4pm.
We couldn’t leave Maya alone for that long, so the two of us returned to the camper and worked inside for the day, before meeting the same Bolivian immigration official for our exit stamp around 4pm. We had no time to lose as it gets dark around 5:30pm and we needed to get settled at our camping spot an hour away, before the sun set. Driving at night in these countries is extremely dangerous and not recommended.
Again, we walked across the border into Peru and – big relief – received another entry stamp in our passports for 60 days. We were legal again until December 24th! It had been a long day with loads of driving to reach this goal, but I was excited that the worst was over. Except, it wasn’t…
The border arch in Bolivia
What we thought was easy, obtaining a new TIP for the car once we had the new passport stamp, turned into a nightmare.
The temporary customs office in Kasani – many government buildings here were burnt down during the protests in early 2023.
When visiting customs (aduana) at this Kasani border, the officer had no idea what we were talking about and couldn’t help us. According to him, we needed to drive our vehicle into Bolivia, get a TIP there, have it canceled next, and then return to Peru to obtain a brand-new TIP. That was out of the question, because it would require taking Maya and entering and exiting Bolivia again as persons, which we had just done, and not to the pleasure of the local authorities.
The only other option, according to him, was drive to the other border with Bolivia, located in Desaguadero, a commercial crossing, to get our vehicle extension. “It’s close. Only half an hour away,” were his parting words, after exclaiming an authoritative “No” when I asked him if we could apply for this extension online.
So, we put the location he gave us in our gps and headed to the other Peruvian – Bolivian border more than an hour away, trying to beat nightfall … and failing. We had to maneuver between rows of eighteen wheelers, got stuck waiting for a truck that unsuccessfully tried to squeeze through, were told no customs was present at this border, had to backtrack through the chaos to another site, were told to actually head across the road to a heavily secured area, where we needed to register and eventually found a Peruvian customs official.
Navigating hundreds of truck at the Desaguadero border
By then, it was pitch black outside. Again, I did our spiel. The officer called someone in charge, typed a few things in his computer (yes!), printed out a form, and told us we had to apply for this extension online. We’d get a response within 24 hours…
At this point, we were two hours away from our favorite camping spot (that we knew worked out and was quiet), so, against better judgement (Don’t drive at night!), we risked the journey back, but not through the chaos of semi trucks. Mark found an alternative route on Google Maps, which started out awesome – fast pavement without speed bumps, villages, animals, or traffic. Until we had to make a right turn and entered a dirt road for the last 40 miles (60 km)!!!!
Country drive on dirt roads at night
To say this was a nail-biting experience, driving over single-lane, gravel, country roads without seeing further than a car-length in front of you, is an understatement. At one point, we reached a bridge that was closed, luckily with plenty of orange warning signs and a detour arrow, pointing us across the river through the water. Not able to detect how deep the stream was, we waited until another car showed us the way.
It was a long drive home, but we made it by 9pm and immediately cooked dinner, applied for the TIP extension online, and booked tickets for Machu Picchu on my birthday (November 28), the day after my cousin and her husband had reserved to go. We had made it back into Peru safely, after wasting heaps of time, fuel, energy, and money. Or so we thought.
Twenty-four hours went by and we didn’t hear back from customs about our vehicle extension. This needed to be resolved. What would we do if the police pulled us over for paperwork inspection, something that happened frequently?
Our next destination was Arequipa. Mark suggested stopping in Puno, a sizeable city we would drive through, and checking in with the customs office there to see if they could speed up the paperwork process for our permit. Not a bad idea.
We arrived at the aduana office around 9am, talked to a friendly clerk who made some phone calls, and, by lunch time, still nothing had happened. It was October 27th, the last day our car permit was valid. The helpful lady told us someone would call around 1pm. Of course, that didn’t happen. We entered the building again and finally talked to someone really willing and happy to help. He promised he would get us sorted out before the office closed at 4pm.
So, we ran a few other errands. When we returned to our camper, a missed call was waiting. We returned the call, spoke with someone higher up, resubmitted all our documents via WhatsApp, and waited.
At 3:30pm, the official called again, asked us if we had crossed into Bolivia with or without our car, listened to our honest answer, and said we had done something illegal. When a driver enters Peru with his car, he “technically” can’t leave without it (unless the TIP gets suspended). “But, not to worry,” he continued, “you are not in trouble. I just can’t help you with the extension. The only way to be legal with your truck now, is by leaving the country (into Bolivia) and coming right back, so customs can issue a new TIP.”
We swung by the main Puno office again, but our friendly officer couldn’t help us any further. It was 4pm by then. The Kasani border closed at 8pm and was a three-hour drive away. We had no other choice. And, I can pretty much guarantee you that this was not a fun ride, all the way back from where we came, as fast as possible, dealing with crazy drivers, speed bumps, traffic lights, potholes, animals along the road, … We both pretty much lost it and agreed that, if this wouldn’t work out, we’d leave and never come back. Peru had been “kicking out butts” long enough.
Driving back to the Bolivian border at Kasani, while a full moon rose.
The helpful custom officer in Puno had called the official at the border, so the man was expecting us. From the moment we showed up, in the dark again, he cancelled our old TIP. Right in time! If we would have “overstayed” with the car one day (without suspending the permit), the fine would have been the equivalent of US$300.
Parked by the customs office to get our TIP cancelled
Then, we were told to drive into Bolivia and come back. He meant the official way. But this involved checking out of Peru again and dealing with immigration in Bolivia, which we knew was not a ten-minute ordeal, even though the people on this side of the border assumed it would be.
Maya and I stayed outside our camper – we were not involving a dog into this border crossing mess – with nothing to our name, while Mark traversed no-man’s land, drove under the Bolivian arch, turned around, and parked outside of the Peruvian border. The custom agent’s mouth fell open, as Mark walked into Peru again, indicating he drove to Bolivia and back.
A discussion (always in Spanish) followed and we explained how it was impossible for us to “just” hop back and forth; Mark would have to spend the night there and Maya and I would need to find a hotel in Peru, while we waited for their return.
The hotel at the Peruvian-Bolivian border where Maya and I would have had to stay, if Mark needed to leave Peru overnight.
Our customs guy called his jefe and we could hear the conversation on speaker phone…
Did the gringo leave Peru? Yes.
Was his car outside the country right now? Yes.
Well, then he can drive back in and get a new vehicle permit. YES!!!
Mark was ordered to drive Thirsty Bella back into Peru and we were issued a new TIP to match our fresh immigration stamps.
We decided to camp at the border that night, ate dinner at 9pm (an improvement), and let my cousin and her husband know that we were, finally and securely, back in Peru for another sixty days. Never again!
Back in Peru for sixty more days
What we learned
The reason we didn’t all drive out of Peru, into Bolivia, and back again, was mainly because of Maya, who would have needed paperwork from La Paz, Bolivia, which would have taken two days to obtain, before returning to Peru. Without a dog, this would have been less of an issue and would have taken the same amount of time as it actually did for us on that first attempt.
Knowing what we know now, the following would have been the right approach (for us, with a dog): I check out of Peru and into Bolivia on my own, walking across the border, returning to Peru and dealing with my stamps. Later that day, or the next one, Mark would do the same, but driving across, while I stayed in Peru with Maya. He would then deal with immigration and customs (for the car) in both countries. Time consuming, but done correctly and legally…
Was it worthwhile to stay an extra two months in Peru? Stay tuned for those stories. 🙂
Next up: Our (delayed) expense report for November 2023.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir, a perfect holiday gift:
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December 20, 2023 at 14:49
Holy cow, Liesbet! I’m glad it all worked out but I could feel the tension just by reading your words.
December 20, 2023 at 20:08
Thanks, Janis. Yeah, this was not a fun three days. I think Mark and I are happy to pronounce that we – hopefully – will never come to Peru again.
December 20, 2023 at 15:23
Good f*** grief. I would have given up.
December 20, 2023 at 20:10
Jacqui, we were very close to giving up. Usually, when a country “doesn’t want us,” or we are tired of it, we just move on. But, we had “obligations” and agreements/expectations in place. I think we have learned our lesson with this episode! Some things are not worth the stress and continued trials.
December 20, 2023 at 16:23
Horrific! But you made it.
December 20, 2023 at 20:10
Yes, we did! Never again, though. Under different circumstances, we would have just left.
December 20, 2023 at 19:51
Wow, wow, wow… Such tension, I was squirming in my chair.
December 20, 2023 at 20:12
Haha, Mel. Sometimes, it is easier – and more fun – to be an armchair traveler! I have moments, where all I wish is to just sit on a comfy couch and veg! If only we had a comfy couch – and time to veg. 🙂
December 20, 2023 at 20:24
Reading about your nail-biting experiences makes me want to (almost) chew nails. Oh, my gosh!!
I do like how you plan for contingencies: “just in case we wouldn’t be allowed back into the country anymore.” But still. . . .
Here’s hoping 2024 will give you a little time to veg. 😀
December 22, 2023 at 14:37
Hi Marian,
Traveling the way we do – including the risks we take, it’s a good idea to have back-ups. Especially when we “decide” on a place to free camp, often circumstances have changed and the spot might not be available/safe/attractive anymore. Yet, at times, we don’t have alternatives and REALLY hope whatever we have in mind works out. But, flexibility is a must!
Thank you for your wishes. I feel 2023 was more challenging than it should have been, but maybe that comes with the “territory.” I do think we might have picked the trickiest countries in South America first, though. 🙂
December 21, 2023 at 11:24
Sorry to hear your 6 month visa for Peru was denied. As I was reading I was elated you got a 60 day extension. But… then the TIP experience!!!!!! WOW! Driving at night on a single lane dirt road in a place you have never been before had to be a horrible drive. OMG, driving your rig through a river?!?!?!? And then being jerked around at the customs office and told you had to go back to Bolivia.?!?!?! You know, you can’t make this kind of stuff up! Reality is so much more bazaar than fiction. What an ordeal!! Glad it finally all worked out. Jim
December 22, 2023 at 14:46
What’s life without a challenge, right, Jim? It would have all been so easy if we’d been given those six months (or five) in the country from the beginning. Oh, my. We could have planned without worries from the start and not have to go through hoops to make it all happen…
And, I always say that reality is much more exciting than fiction (which is a nice realization when you write memoir :-)), and you are so right: “You can’t make this shit up!” Not quite your words, but it is another quote I use more often than I actually care to! I feel like so much happened in Peru, that I can’t keep track of it anymore. Too many stories. Too many challenges. Too much crazy sh*t. We are happy to have left that country behind us, even though I can still see it across from Lake Titicaca at the moment!
December 21, 2023 at 13:12
I am exhausted from reading this, but relieved that the story had a positive outcome. I’m sure you would have thrown in the towel if not for your cousin’s visit. Please tell me you got to Machu Picchu after all of this?
December 22, 2023 at 14:48
Hi Suzanne!
You are 100% correct. If it wasn’t for my family – and our friends (and the parts they were bringing) – coming to Peru in November, we would have planned our visit differently and be more than ready (not just mentally) to leave Peru after three months!
And, yes, spoiler alert: we did visit Machu Picchu on my birthday – and it was magical! 🙂
December 21, 2023 at 13:24
Hi, Liesbet, Mark and Maya – I continue to admire how you take extremely difficult moments and continue to persevere onwards. Me, I usually run away screaming (no lie). No wonder I love following your adventures so very much.
December 22, 2023 at 14:53
Hi Donna,
I can tell you one thing: I’m glad you are following our adventures virtually and not in real life! Our time in Peru has been super challenging and we are at a moment again where we could really use a little break from the road. But, since that didn’t happen in Cusco (high rental rates and not really the place for us to live stationary for a month or so), we remain exhausted. I think we will have to take it a little bit easier – and even slower – in 2024, if we want to keep our sanity. And, we need to find a good balance between work and socializing and sightseeing and rest and self-care. But, now I’m getting ahead of myself! 🙂
December 21, 2023 at 19:48
Yikes! What an ordeal! I could feel my blood pressure soaring just from reading your account and imagining your predicament. I hope your “bonus” 60 days are extra-good, to compensate for the pain you went through to achieve them.
December 22, 2023 at 14:57
Hi Diane!
Like a friend of mine commented underneath (which is also my experience): real life is crazier than fiction. Sometimes, anyway. You would know, being the queen of fiction writing! 🙂
We had really hoped to give Peru a “second chance” on round two – and we did – but we will never love that country! Yes, the scenery and archeological sites are incredible, and, yes, there were a couple more highlights (well, one anyway) during those last two months, but I only got as far as a “Top Three” for this country, after five months!
December 22, 2023 at 18:51
Hi Liesbet, What an ordeal! I’m glad it worked out at the end. I hope you have a peaceful, joyful and restful Christmas before ringing in 2024.
December 23, 2023 at 12:20
Thank you for the wonderful wishes, Natalie! Happy Holidays in Canada to you and yours as well, and “see” you next year!
December 25, 2023 at 10:07
I saved this entry to read when I had time and WOW! Worth the wait and it was a white-knuckle read! I was squeezing my coffee cup the whole time, willing the best outcome! Well, your outcome was hard fought and I’m so glad you did get to see your visitors, enjoy Machu Picchu, and felt your birthday there! (Happy belated, by the way).
Hope you all enjoy a wonderful Christmas and ring in the Nes Year with hope and joy and love. On to your next adventure ❣️
Much respect!
Carol Sue
January 2, 2024 at 15:40
Hi Carol!
Thank you for all the wishes and for following along – in suspense! We wish you and your family a fantastic new year and I hope I can keep you entertained – hopefully not white-knuckled (most of the time) – throughout 2024! 🙂
December 25, 2023 at 17:03
Hi Liesbet! I join all your other friends in just say “Wow!” What an ordeal and certainly not something I would ever want to navigate myself. Still you did a great job and from what I can tell you managed to “Keep it together!” That you and Mark haven’t killed each other from the tension is also a good testimony of your relationship. Please, for the sake of your friends and fans, take it a bit easier in 2024!!! 🙂 ~Kathy
January 2, 2024 at 15:46
Hi Kathy,
I had to laugh at your comment about taking it easier in 2024. I honestly hope we can do that, as we are both exhausted at the moment.
I also saw your comment as a sign… Mark and I were discussing staying put for one month in La Paz, Bolivia, running a campground in return for free camping as I read your words. We decided to take the owner up on that offer, so this gives us a bit of a break from the road. But, it’s super busy with overlanders here, so we are not resting or relaxing yet…
As for that second drive to the border with Bolivia, it was an awful three-hour ride that I never hope to repeat. Our relationship did suffer through this ordeal, so we will try to avoid anything similar in the future.
December 27, 2023 at 21:23
What an ordeal, the back and forth, the misinformation, driving at night! How incredibly stressful. Luckily in the end you found someone who could and was willing to help you. That first person could have told you that you needed to drive over the border.
I’m very impressed that you have been dealing with all this in Spanish. I’m pretty good to use my Spanish in restaurants but I can’t imagine communicating with customs. And I admire your honesty. I always feel like I’m doing something wrong at the border whether I really am or not.
I’m glad it all worked out in the end and you got to see your cousin.
January 3, 2024 at 13:48
Hi Duwan,
This entire border run was a disaster and we truly hope we never have to repeat such stress and ordeal. And, actually, that first aduana person did tell us we had to drive over the border and back, but since we were convinced there was another way – and we had just received the entrance and exit stamp for Bolivia, so couldn’t repeat that the same day – we followed other avenues (first). If we wouldn’t have had Maya, things would have been easier, more straightforward, and quicker. Live and learn…
I honestly don’t know how people get around here without knowing Spanish, especially fellow overlanders. Normal tourists seem to be okay, because they stick to the trodden path, go on tours, and use travel agents (like my cousin and her husband). But, the way we travel, we need car, medical, logistical, and often other assistance in the middle of nowhere…
I’m quite happy to be able to have entire conversations in Spanish now (especially running the campground and needing info or directions), but I’m far from fluent. Well, fluent in a correct way. 🙂
Yes, it was wonderful to meet my family, but I feel we paid a high price for that “privilege”. Next time, if a country doesn’t want us to spend more money there anymore, we will leave.