Rio de Janeiro – The Vibrant Heart of Brazil

In our lifestyle, flexibility is key. I’ve often mentioned that Mark and I both work while traveling the world as nomads—a routine we’ve maintained for over 20 years. Usually, as freelancers, we have a fluid schedule and can adjust our work around the demands and challenges of daily life. But every couple of years, a massive translation project lands in my inbox, forcing us to make solid changes to our plans in exchange for a welcome chunk of income. That’s exactly how we ended up in Rio de Janeiro earlier than planned.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

When Mark returned from his three-week annual visit to the US at the end of July (while Maya and I held down the fort at a campground), we were eager to meander along Brazil’s famously beautiful coastline, wild camping along the way. That plan lasted two weeks—until the translation assignment arrived. Soon enough, we were parked in the driveway of Fritz House, the property of a Brazilian man of German descent who welcomes overlanders for a fee. His setup included WiFi, water, electricity, toilets, and showers.

Since I had already started the two-week project en route, we ended up staying 11 nights at Fritz House. I worked full-time while Mark tackled camper projects like repainting our ladder and four electric jacks. We also did laundry that had to line-dry and cleaned the water tanks with bleach.

First Glimpse of Rio

During our stay, we hitched a ride with a tour guide friend for our first look at Rio’s famous beaches. To our pleasant surprise, dogs were welcome. We started at the “fancier” Ipanema Beach, framed by an impressive rock on one side (which technically overlooks Leblon Beach) and a scenic peninsula on the other, where we stumbled upon a professional photo shoot.

Getting to the second famous beach, Copacabana, proved trickier. After failing to find a waterfront route, we had no choice but to cut through town on a noisy, crowded road. The effort was worth it, though.

The massive bay opened up before us with golden sand and a vibrant buzz of activity. We strolled the shoreline for a while and eventually returned along the promenade.

Whether it’s Ipanema or Copacabana, you could sit for hours just watching the scene unfold. We chose a simple beach bar in Copacabana to do exactly that.

We had to return the same way we’d arrived, stealing another glimpse at Ipanema Beach.

Our outing ended with a visit to Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, after indulging in a wonderful ramen dish at a popular Japanese restaurant. Our first impression of Rio? Positive. We couldn’t wait to come back for more.

Exploring Central Rio

When I wrapped up the bulk of my project and was waiting on potential revisions, the three of us ordered an Uber to central Rio. We followed a walking tour designed by our friends Nikki and Ian of Above Us Only Skies and tried their recommended lunch spot.

The route began at the colorful but crowded Escadaria Selarón steps. After quickly climbing, snapping a few obligatory photos (skipping the endless selfie lines), we moved on to a nearby viaduct where homeless residents were omnipresent.

Next came a strikingly modern church, followed by a series of colonial-era buildings.

The highlight was the ornate Portuguese library, which we admired and photographed.

Before reaching the waterfront, we wandered through the African Quarter, where slaves were once traded. Touching murals and a small square—the prettiest in the city—made the stop memorable.

Along the waterfront, the scale of the Etnias mural, created for the 2016 Olympics, left us speechless. The futuristic Museum of Tomorrow also stood out against the backdrop of the bay.

By lunchtime, the sun was blazing, so we ducked into a street lined with outdoor restaurants and enjoyed a set meal. After a few more photo stops, we hunted for free WiFi (which is rare in Brazil) before arranging an Uber back to our base. Mark and I don’t have SIM-cards or internet away from our camper.

From the Camprgound to Lagoa

Tired of paying for a mediocre campground, we relocated to a parking lot next to the Lagoa. At just $3 per weekday (though a steep $14 on weekends), we suddenly found ourselves living in the heart of Rio for a couple of days.

From here, we attempted to reach Vidigal, a favela (slum) that hosts the trailhead for one of Rio’s best hikes. Unfortunately, things didn’t go as planned. Our Uber driver wasn’t allowed through due to one-way morning traffic restrictions and refused the long detour.

Determined, we walked uphill in the heat, hoping to catch a colectivo (shared van) in Vidigal instead of the typical moto-taxis, which weren’t an option with Maya. After an hour of waiting in vain for other passengers, we gave up on the hike. By then, the sun was too strong, and a migraine was starting to flare anyway.

Instead, we headed back to the coast, wandering barefoot along Leblon and Ipanema Beaches. It was the perfect day for a swim, but we weren’t prepared.

Farewell to Rio

Back at the Lagoa, the same migraine ruined our plans for a final dinner out. Still, unlike most cities, Rio is one we actually hope to revisit.

On our last morning, we rose early to catch the sunrise at a free viewpoint, Dona Marta, before our parking fee increased. Bad signage and rough roads made us miss that special moment, but the views were still stunning.

Later, after breakfast in the camper, we returned when the crowds had thinned and embraced the sweeping panoramas mostly by ourselves.

Our next destination was supposed to be Niterói, and we tried, but the sheer size, traffic, and chaos of the city convinced us to turn back. Instead, we pointed the truck north, eager to find some quieter beaches to unwind.

And that’s how an unexpected work project reshaped our time in Rio. It gave us a glimpse of the city’s iconic beaches, lively streets, and cultural highlights—plus a strong reason to come back one day.

I will leave you with an incredible and fun practice round of foot-volley on Ipanema Beach:

Next up: Our last destinations in Brazil and why we had to leave

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir: