Sedona, Arizona is one of those places we had heard a lot of praise for but knew nothing about. Our Lonely Planet USA – a big book about a big country – mentions that Sedona is “nestled amid striking red sandstone formations,” is “the center of ‘vortexes’,” and “offers outstanding hiking.” Partial to hiking in beautiful scenery, we decided to make the detour. This also allowed us to check off a few things on our to-do list in Prescott, make a pit stop in the old mining town of Jerome, and climb up to Flagstaff in order to pick up our initial route. I’ve reported on these destinations here.
View from the Templeton Trail
(As always, click on the photos for enlarged versions or click/hover to read the captions.)
Camping
We’d read on iOverlander about a plethora of boondocking sites in Cococino National Forest, about eight miles NW of Sedona. We started on the bumpy dirt road from the west. Much to our surprise, it was extremely busy with campers. Five miles in, we finally scored the most incredible site and we discovered that there was a quicker way out. We spent three free nights here to explore this side of the city.
For our last night, we secured a level parking spot in town, which allowed 24-hour parking for free. It was the perfect base to walk around the center of Sedona.
Parked for the night in town
Palatki Heritage Site
Unbeknownst to us, rock art and cliff dwellings were to be found in close proximity to our first campsite. After seeing a sign, we decided to walk to the Palatki Ruins, 2.5 miles away. In true Liesbet and Mark fashion, we had not brought our wallet (which contained our National Park pass, valid at this site) and were unaware that the site is only accessible by guided tours, which you have to reserve. Luckily, payment (or display of the pass) is only required to park a vehicle and we managed to hang around long enough to be accepted on a tour and learn about the Sinagua Indian Tribe.
Devil’s Bridge
There are literally hundreds of trails in the Sedona area. Based on the internet and brochures, we picked a few favorites. The first one was Devil’s Bridge. To avoid packing up camp and exposing Zesty to more dirt and rough roads than needed, we biked the six miles to the Mescal Trailhead, surprisingly absent of a bike rack. From there we connected to the Chuckwagon and Devil’s Bridge Trails on foot. The total hike was five miles. Most of it was scenic and enjoyable, but the last stretch was extremely crowded. That’s when we realized (again) spring break was in full swing. Hordes of college kids, heaps of families, and the usual tourists all piled up on the narrow trail, causing bottle neck situations where exerting patience was key.
Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park
Fellow campers told us about this peaceful park on the edge of Sedona. After we freed up the best campsite in the area, we drove to the park and checked it out. I walked around the stupa three times – clockwise – and turned the prayer wheels – clockwise – to wish for peace, in the world (how cliché) and in my head. It gets very convoluted in there. 😊
Chapel of the Holy Cross
This modern-looking church is built into the red rock and overrun. We lucked out with a parking spot (otherwise we would have left), as tons of cars were stuck in traffic. We followed the masses of pedestrians uphill to the entrance of the church, where expansive views materialized. The photos didn’t come out great as it was a cloudy day.
Cathedral Rock
Sedona is located at an altitude of 4,350ft, which is not that high. But Mark and I had been spending months in the low deserts of California and Arizona, so I contributed my headaches to the higher elevation. As a result, I decided not to join Mark for the strenuous climb to Cathedral Rock and its vortex.
Instead – because I couldn’t just wait and relax in the camper – I took Tylenol and opted for the Easy Breezy Trail. I followed it to the Templeton Trail (which seemed like a beautiful, relatively flat trail) and gazed at the scenery there.
Sedona Town
We probably didn’t do the center of Sedona justice. We only strolled the main road and went out for happy hour. To be fair, we planned to spend a second night in town to explore more, but plans changed.
Intriguing Invite
As Mark and I enjoyed a rare happy hour drink and a split appetizer together, we were approached by an eccentric woman and her Australian Shepherd dog. A fellow traveler, writer, dog lover, and social being, she was interested in conversation. One thing led to another and she called her partner. “Bruce, I was out with Mookie and I met these two travelers, Mark and Liesbet. They’re coming over for dinner.”
…followed by burritos on the edge of town
Next thing we knew, Darielle took us home in her car. It was only one mile away, so we could easily walk back to our own home on wheels later that night. We were introduced to partner Bruce Eckhardt and a second dog, Gator. Writer Darielle showed us around their incredible (recently purchased and renovated) house with views to die for, while artist Bruce offered us a peak in his studio. If only we could afford one of his fabulous necklaces! To understand where we landed, check out Bruce’s jewelry website (and prices!) here. Yes, he is a famous jeweler with clients in rock star circles. The entire house resembles an art gallery and we didn’t know where to look first or what to ask next.
Darielle insisted we took a shower – having traveled all over the world, she remembers how nice it is to be spoiled by the generosity of locals – which was another treat, involving a rainfall shower head and blinking disco colors ranging from green to red. Bruce made chicken burritos for the entire family and we had quite a unique evening.
Family night with Darielle and Bruce and the pups
West Fork Trail
The trailhead for this hike was much further out of town – following a narrow road with overhanging trees – than we expected, hence we decided to continue on towards Flagstaff afterwards instead of retrace to Sedona. It is also located at 6,000ft, which explained the colder temperatures. Each time the weather warms up, we somehow end up “norther” or higher. No matter, shorts and sandals it had to be, since this 7-mile trail contains 13 river crossings.
This hike came highly recommended in our resources, so we didn’t mind hanging around in the parking lot until a spot opened up. Circling around was made difficult because of illegally parked cars and low-hanging tree branches. Once on the trail, we grabbed a stick and took in our surroundings. During the first four river crossings, it was possible to keep our feet dry, as we balanced on rocks and sticks. Then, it was onward and forward, forging the river. Oak Creek was ice-cold and the sun absent. That and extremely slow progress made us turn around after three miles and happily warm up in Zesty, ready for the next adventure
Frugal tip:
Don’t go to the airport overlook in Sedona ($3 to park your car – no fee for pedestrians or bicyclists, but it’s a long, windy way up to the viewpoint), but visit the Chapel or the Cathedral Cove area instead for spectacular views that are free.
The view from Cathedral Rock (photo by Mark)
Have you ever been to Sedona, AZ? What were your highlights? Any recommendations?
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April 17, 2019 at 16:51
Wow! What a great trip! I’ve never been to Sedona, but I have been to the Tucson area. The desert is full of so much life, contrary to what some think. Confession…the paranoid and suspicious side of me, who works for the police department and has seen way too many horrible things, was thinking DON’T GET INTO THE CAR WITH DARIELLE! LOL! I’m happy she and Bruce turned out to be such a nice couple and you all had a nice time, Liesbet. Thanks for sharing your beautiful photos!
April 19, 2019 at 16:40
Haha, Jill! I surely didn’t expect this answer. Seriously, do you really work for the police department or is that a fictitious statement? As in, are you a police officer in some of your books?
After all my years of travel – internationally – I’ve been in quite a few situations myself and this one didn’t even make me blink. I do have intuition – and I had Mark with me, so the thought never even entered my head. Plus, life would be dull if we walk around fearfully. 🙂
April 17, 2019 at 17:01
Up until a year or so ago, they never charged for that airport road scenic overlook. Made me made when we tried taking family there and now charge…. no thanks. How fun to meet locals and have them invite you over. Looks and sounds like you made the most of your Sedona visit. I always enjoy my time there!
April 19, 2019 at 16:41
It was an unpleasant and unexpected encounter with that ticket booth on the hill, Ingrid. Like you, we have our principles, so we turned around and left, slightly annoyed and disappointed. But, it was a cloudy day, so that made me feel better. 🙂 We’d love to return to Sedona one day – it’s a special place.
April 17, 2019 at 17:08
HI Liesbet
Sedona and surrounding area area beautiful. I’ve been to Jerome, it’s a quirky little town for sure. Besides the interesting places you visit, you sure run into some interesting people. Once again thanks for the tour through your and Mark’s eyes.
Safe Travels
Laura
April 19, 2019 at 16:43
Hi Laura! Sedona and Jerome are close to each other. I hope you’ll be able to return to the quirkiness of the mining town and fit in a visit to the beauty of Sedona. It makes me happy to know that you still enjoy the virtual tours. Have a nice weekend!
April 17, 2019 at 17:28
Hi Liesbet! Yes Sedona is stunningly beautiful in parts but every time we’ve gone we’ve hit crowds too. It can also be pretty expensive unless you travel with your own bed so that’s why we don’t go to often. But so glad to hear you had a great time…and how cool to meet some new and wonderful people. Oh, and your photos are awesome too. ~Kathy
April 19, 2019 at 20:36
I can see how Sedona could be expensive. Mark compared it to a resort town, like Breckenridge in Colorado. For some reason, these are the towns we end up going out for happy hour, which is never really that cheap… Being able to park in or near town and then walk or bike to get a drink is attractive to us. Usually, we are “boondocking in the boonies” with nothing around, so when finding free overnight parking in town, we try to take advantage of it. From your account, it sounds like Sedona is always busy. I’m not surprised. Thank you for visiting and commenting, Kathy!
April 17, 2019 at 17:31
We have been to Sedona a few times. We didn’t enjoy the crowded town but the surrounding areas are gorgeous. I love that the two of you were adopted for the evening and you got to enjoy good food, good conversation, and a hot shower. The stories of the adventures that you have had make you ideal dinner guests (and, of course, you are really nice people). Bruce’s jewelry is beautiful but way out of my price range too.
April 19, 2019 at 20:42
Sedona and crowds seem to go together, based on your and other people’s comments, Janis. I guess I shouldn’t feel too bad about hitting the area during spring break. The people we met who live on the edge of town say that it’s an oasis where they live, compared to downtown. So, once outside of town – and avoiding the highlight destinations – it does get peaceful.
Isn’t Bruce’s jewelry outstanding? Maybe we should try and become better friends with them. 🙂
Thank you for that nice compliment about us being dinner guests! Wouldn’t it be nice if we could get invited more often in return of stories? That reminds me of an old sea salt we met in St. Martin. He would go to bars and have patrons buy him drinks in return for sea gypsy stories. 🙂 He’s a great guy and became a good friend during our time there.
April 17, 2019 at 18:58
HI, Liesbet – My initial thoughts were the exact same as Jill’s — “DON’T get into the car with a strange woman whom you just met!” It looks like you had a fabulous evening — which I would have missed out on because of my lack of risk-taking! 🙂
April 19, 2019 at 20:45
Hi Donna! I didn’t realize you were such a careful, non-risk taking person. I’m sure you’ve met many people over the years, strangers whom you met and maybe became friends with. Or, invited them into your house. 🙂 It’s always hard to judge what occurred when you’re not in the situation itself. But I totally understand the apprehension for this situation. All I can say is that it’s best I don’t report on some other encounters I’ve had over the years… Maybe that’s for another memoir. 🙂
April 17, 2019 at 19:14
You sure found some great places around Sedona! We loved the place too, but missed most of what you found. Guess we’ll have to go back! Thanks for sharing.
April 19, 2019 at 20:47
Yes, Leslie, you will have to go back. But first, you have more intriguing destinations on the agenda!!! I’d be curious to see what you think about the European mentality. I’ve found the people there much “cooler” than in the US. I hope you will meet some amazing hosts as well.
April 18, 2019 at 01:10
Really looks stunning, and how great that you met such lovely people.
April 19, 2019 at 20:49
Is there anything better than the combination of amazing scenery and good company? Well… nice weather, I guess. But still…. 🙂
April 18, 2019 at 01:24
It sounds like your visit with Darielle and Bruce was a highlight of the trip. As inveterate travelers, you may have developed a sixth sense about people, though I see here in comments some of your readers thought accepting their invitation was a big risk.
I clicked on some of the photos to make them larger. What fantastic scenery. Thanks for all this, Liesbet!
April 19, 2019 at 20:59
Hi Marian! I’m glad you liked the photos and the virtual tour of our little sojourn in Sedona. By the way, you taught me a new word today (I had to look up the translation): inveterate. Thank YOU for that.
You know, it never even crossed my mind that we could get in trouble accepting a dinner invite. I guess we are generally less suspicious than others when it comes to trusting fellow travelers. That being said, you are right about that sixth sense. I’ve been in many situations during my travels where I would not have gotten in a car (and a few times where I did and regretted it). Aaah, the stories. One thing most of my more suspicious readers would like to know, probably, is that I’ve mostly given up hitchhiking as I got older. 🙂
April 18, 2019 at 07:14
Lovely to visit Sedona again through your lens. Last traveled there in 2007 before I started photographing seriously and have very few pictures to remember it by. Wish I’d known you were going. One of my best friends lives there. Would have loved to have introduced you.
April 19, 2019 at 21:03
Hi Lisa! Good to know about your friend living in Sedona. If we ever go back, I’d love to meet her. I’ll warn you ahead of time. As much as I could do that. You know how little we plan. Usually, we only know our next destination a day or two ahead of time.
I did think about you when we drove through Gallup again on the way to our current house sit in Albuquerque, since you once mentioned you enjoyed visiting an old hotel there. But, we didn’t have the time or desire to stop. It’s kind of a weird place….
April 20, 2019 at 04:34
I tend toward quirky so weird is my wonderful 🙂
April 22, 2019 at 09:04
🙂
April 18, 2019 at 08:57
Wow – so much good fun enjoyed in this small area! I love that you got adopted for an evening (and that they turned out to be not only safe but fascinating people). It’s been many years since I’ve been to Sedona but I keep thinking we should try to go back. We have family near Phoenix so maybe we’ll give this a shot someday soon!
April 19, 2019 at 21:06
There are so many interesting destinations in the Phoenix area, once you get out of the city a bit. I’m sure you know and I think it’s a great idea for you guys to get to Arizona again soon and do some sightseeing, before the extreme summer heat. As a matter of fact, I think you should go to Northern Arizona mid-May and let us know where we can meet up. 🙂
April 20, 2019 at 07:03
Oh, that would be fun! We have to sit down with our summer calendar and plan out some shorter trips. I have some small family obligations here and there (and one of them is driving my parents’ stuff north in a U-Haul in mid-May). 🙁
April 22, 2019 at 09:05
Keep me up-to-date with your travel plans this spring, especially if they involve Colorado. 🙂
April 18, 2019 at 12:33
Sedona is another place on our ‘to-visit’ list. I can hardly wait to explore the desert landscape – so different from everything familiar here! 🙂
April 19, 2019 at 21:10
Yes! I remember being on the lush island after spending weeks in barren landscapes and loving it. Then, after enough rain and dripping moss and leaves in VI’s rain forests, we were ready for the desert again. 🙂
April 19, 2019 at 15:05
Yes, we’ve been to Sedona, but didn’t do as thorough a job as you and Mark! I’m particularly peeved at missing the stupa.
April 19, 2019 at 21:12
Anabel, has there been an area in the US Southwest where you haven’t been and which you would like to explore?
We were not aware of the Peace Park at all, until a couple of single women travelers told us about it. I think a lot of places have Buddhist monasteries or Stupa parks one can visit. It hasn’t been anything we’ve looked into as we seem to find peace elsewhere, in nature.
April 20, 2019 at 00:22
Oh yes! We did two big trips to Arizona and Utah and one to Colorado / Wyoming, but only scratched the surface of Colorado and haven’t been to New Mexico at all. So lots more to do at some time in the future.
April 22, 2019 at 09:03
Sounds like a plan! Our highlights in New Mexico are White Sands National Monument, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, and Santa Fe (and if you’re adventurous, Chaco Canyon as well). In Colorado, Mesa Verde NP and Rocky Mountain NP top the list. Not that you asked. 🙂
April 22, 2019 at 10:59
No, but it’s handy to know! 😀
April 22, 2019 at 13:25
🙂
April 19, 2019 at 17:48
Hi Liesbet, We were briefly in Sedona many years ago. I do remember the vortexes and a really unusual storm that came in quickly, resulting in spectacular skies. I also remember crowds everywhere we went. That was in September.
From your description of people and Spring Break, Red Rock Secret Mt. was likely not a big secret.
How wide is the narrowest part of Devil’s Bridge? I am getting a panic attack just looking at your photo.
I love stories like the “intriguing invite.” As previous comments suggest, BE CAREFUL! Your energy and karma likely brought this fun meeting into your life.
Breathtaking views and photos. I enjoy all of your posts, Liesbet. You put a smile on my face:) Erica
April 19, 2019 at 21:19
Watching a storm among the red rocks must be spectacular, Erica! And, if there were still crowds in September, it’s probably always busy in Sedona. It sure seems to be a very popular town for US visitors and international ones.
You and Mark would get along well when it comes to Devil’s Bridge and “bridging” it. A lot of people we met on this hike were apprehensive about walking over this arch; usually the women in the group. And some men in front of me. All I can say is that it’s not that narrow, probably four feet wide or so, and that I’ve done scarier explorations in nature, like the Angel’s Landing walk in Zion NP and one particular hike in Acadia NP in Maine. When you have a fear of heights, this is not the place to pose for a photo. 🙂
You might be right about your karma comment. Sometimes, things like this work out. We love it! And, speaking of karma and energy… stay tuned for my next post.
BTW, your sweet comment and the joy in your words put a smile on my face!!! Have a fantastic weekend!
April 19, 2019 at 20:07
Such spectactular scenery. We have spent a bit of time there but clearly so much more to see. How wonderful to be welcomed by locals. The kindness of people around the world never ceases to amaze and inspire me.
April 19, 2019 at 21:21
Sue, I could see Sedona being a destination you and Dave would enjoy. The scenery and the hiking are pretty spectacular. I still can’t believe how many trails are in that area!!
Over the years, we have met quite a few welcoming and inviting people in North America. Time to put that observation to the test elsewhere in the world. 🙂
April 20, 2019 at 07:51
Another truly inspiring journey, Liesbet! Isn’t it amazing how slim some of those rock formations are? Sorry to hear about your headache. I can understand. We’ve waded through streams along rock beds in Zion National Park. And the arches terrify me. Did you notice that crack by your left foot in the photo? My children loved to scare me by pointing out all the cracks and crevices along the arches at Arches National Park. A beautiful post, Liesbet. All best to you.
April 22, 2019 at 09:09
I remember that hike in Zion NP, Victoria! I think it was called “The Narrows” or something like that. Mark and I didn’t do that one, thinking “Who would want to wade through cold water for hours?” Haha. Perceptions change sometimes… Although out hike contained of brief interactions with icy water, not an entire hike. Most people we saw on this hike in Zion were wearing big rubber boots.
I did not notice the crack in the arch. I’m a bit of an adrenaline junkie at times and have few – if any – fears when it comes to heights. I’ve had a few senior women tell me in the past that if I were their daughter, they’d panic and tell me to move away from the edge. 🙂
April 21, 2019 at 09:30
More evidence that you and Mark are charmed – great boondocking sites, hiking, and making friends with hot showers!
Sedona is still on my list – perhaps we will make it there next summer. Thanks for giving us the scoop on all the hikes. I don’t think we will be wading in icy cold streams with snow on the ground, though.
April 21, 2019 at 09:36
That was supposed to say next time (darn autocorrect). We will still be house sitting next summer.
April 22, 2019 at 09:12
I figured. But, maybe the next summer, you’ll out west all year long. 🙂
April 22, 2019 at 09:12
You know Duwan, before you used the word “charmed” I had never heard it used in that context, let alone thinking we could be it. 🙂 Yeah, that hike along and through the river in the canyon wasn’t our favorite. I found it pretty boring as well. So spoiled we are! I do hope you’ll be able to get to Sedona one day – so many amazing hikes and formations around town. As long as you can get away from the crowds a bit, all is irie!
April 21, 2019 at 15:00
Most of this is well documented territory but it’s good to see again, Liesbet. Feeling awfully full and a bit sleepy after my Easter celebrations. 🙂 🙂
April 22, 2019 at 09:16
So nice that you managed to visit Sedona in the past, Jo. Some places on the beaten track are certainly worth a look and a feel. 🙂 Sounds like Easter 2019 was quite satisfying.
April 22, 2019 at 15:14
Oh, Liesbet, your photos of Sedona are glorious (as I grind my teeth in jealousy)! You also went during a holiday time so you experienced the fun traffic minus the snow. This really motivates me to try again, maybe a spring trip or Fall, with the trailer. Hans loves adventures and now we know what to expect. I like that boondocking campsite you mentioned. We can easily boondock in our trailer, since we do this from now through August at the delta. Wonderful tips and inspiration for another trip to Arizona! Happy Trails!
April 22, 2019 at 16:12
I’m rooting for you and Hans to return to northern Arizona, including Sedona, Terri! It’s definitely worth coming back to, but maybe when not being on a tight schedule. It sounds like your trailer is well set up to boondock and live off the grid for a little while. We really enjoy being in nature like this with our Zesty. As a matter of fact, we are already looking forward to being on the road again, in 2.5 weeks. 🙂
April 22, 2019 at 18:09
Wow, of all your travels you’d never been to beautiful Sedona before? It’s my favorite place to visit when in Arizona. I’ve been there several times and every time I make it a point to go back to Chapel of the Holy Cross. I find Sedona a magical place, could be with all the energies from the vortexes, but magical for me. 🙂
April 23, 2019 at 16:05
Hi Debby!
I can see why Sedona is your Arizona favorite for all the right reasons. And, there are so many hikes and sights that more can be discovered during repeat visits.
Mark and I never spent much time in Arizona before. We’d only driven through the southern part “in a hurry” between house sits and stopped in Phoenix once (I forgot why, but it also involved meeting my brother who was on a business trip from Belgium and my ex who happened to be there as well) when we still had our two dogs, many moons ago. So, anything else came as a pleasant surprise and intriguing destination last month. 🙂
April 23, 2019 at 14:13
OK, we LOVE Sedona. But now I feel jipped because we didn’t get a dinner with Darielle and Bruce!
Our personal favorite trails are Wilson Mountain and Bear Mountain, both which provide some of the most spectacular views of all of Sedona. If you’re up for a good challenge, would definitely recommend them for your next trip!
Elise
April 23, 2019 at 16:10
Hi Elise,
Thanks for swinging by and leaving a comment! Next time you visit Sedona, you’ll have to go out for drinks during happy hour at the Oak Creek Brewery and Grill and maybe Darielle will be hanging out their with her Aussie Mookie chatting tourists up. Or, you could visit one of the fancy gallery and show some keen interest in Bruce’s jewelry. 🙂
Thanks for the tips about those strenuous hikes. We did see the parking lot for Bear Mountain (overflowingly busy), but I don’t know where Wilson Mountain is. I hope we will go back one day and then we will certainly tackle one of your favorite hikes.
April 23, 2019 at 23:10
Definitely the vortex. It was such an experience! Did you go? I was hoping it would heal me, but no such luck.
It’s a good thing you didn’t spend too much time in town. Your frugality would have been put to the test. Sedona does seem to be the capital of gorgeous jewelry.
What cool people you met! Love their house, from what I can see in the pictures. They sound incredibly kind, though I imagine that if you live in Sedona, you have a hippieish, peace-and-love vibe.
April 25, 2019 at 15:22
Hi JH!
Which vortex did you go to? I heard about a few different places, but never really checked any out. One was at the top of Cathedral Rock, which Mark climbed by himself. Another is supposedly near the airport overlook, but we were annoyed they wanted a fee to park, so we skipped that one. I feel like I have to return to Sedona to do more hiking and check out a vortex.
Yes, Sedona is expensive, but the couple we met sure fits your picture of the “perfect” Sedona inhabitants. 🙂 No way we could ever afford accommodation or jewelry there!
April 30, 2019 at 23:53
Drat, I can’t remember the name of it, but Cathedral Rock sounds familiar. I’ll have to ask Jared, the friend who planned our trip. I’m sure he’ll know.
May 1, 2019 at 09:02
No worries. There are a few and I haven’t been to any. Maybe we will return to Sedna one day. 🙂