Before Mark, Maya, and I drove north to “explore the Canadian Maritimes a bit”, we didn’t plan anything, as always. The only thing my husband and I discussed was visiting our friend Woody in the Halifax area – he received three days’ notice – and our friends Alex and Dave “somewhere on Prince Edward Island” (PEI). We didn’t inquire where on the island they were located, until a couple of days before we headed that way. We let them know about our arrival, which happened the following day, as things sped up thanks to Hurricane Dorian. There’s a fine line between a “surprise” visit and a “planned” visit when it comes to hosting us. You are warned!
In a car or camper, PEI can be reached by bridge or ferry. The exorbitant toll of the bridge is paid on the return journey; when you leave the island. A little-known fact is that the ferry to the island is free as well, even if you return via the bridge. The prices online are for the return trip on the boat. But what if you want to take the ferry there and the bridge back, because that makes more sense logistically? You could reserve a one-way spot and pay $79 for that privilege. Or, you could just show up early enough, get in line, and pay zero dollars. Guess what we did?
Wood Islands
Wood Islands Provincial Park was the perfect introduction to the cuteness, cleanliness, and charm of PEI. From the moment we drove off the ferry, we turned into this relaxing and beautiful park.
(Hover over the photos or click on them to read the captions and enlarge.)
Point Prim Lighthouse
I love lighthouses! Noticing on the map that we were about to pass the Point Prim one, we had to make the short detour to check it out.
Charlottetown
Our main destination of the day was the picturesque, historic, and wonderful capital of the island: Charlottetown. Since we had a big agenda, we strolled by the main attractions of town and moved on after a couple of hours. We wished we had more time for this little gem.
North Rustico
A quick detour and stop at this seaside hamlet whetted our appetites for the northern shore of the island. We contemplated staying for the night, but there was not much going on, so we decided to complete our scenic haul to Cavendish, where our friends Alex and Dave were located.
Cavendish
People who are familiar with my blog and our recent adventures might remember that we sat out Hurricane Dorian in Cavendish. I wrote about that experience here. The event was predicted and we were prepared, but it greatly inconvenienced and shocked us. We barely got to spend time with our friends, as they worked at the Inn, Kindred Spirits. Hurricane prep and clean-up was substantial and the property was without power for days. We left before things turned to normal.
The surprise came in the devastation to nature caused by the storm! The morning after Dorian passed through, Mark, Maya, and I went for a quick walk to famous Cavendish Beach, along the trails of Prince Edward Island National Park. This is what we found:
Summerside
When the roads were cleared, it was time to leave the island already. Zesty’s car battery was having issues. Three times over the last two weeks, we needed help to get jump started. Luckily, we had that full and sunny first day on the island. The plan was to return to the US in two days and buy an affordable battery in the Walmart of Presque Isle in Maine, before returning to Canada and heading towards Quebec City.
On an impulse, we decided to still check out the town of Summerside and look for a battery at their Walmart. Yes! They had the one for a Mercedes Sprinter Van. For once, we ignored the fact that our part was $30 more expensive than in the US. It bought us piece of mind, no more hassling other drivers, and extra time on PEI and in New Brunswick.
Having a new battery meant that we could spend the night at a comfortable and quiet parking lot on the edge of Summerside. From there, it was an easy and enjoyable walk along the waterfront to the center of town. How convenient. We could go out for drinks, dinner, and dessert without having to drive anywhere!
The following morning, we finally mounted our bikes to ride part of the Confederation Trail. This multi-use path is 273km (170 miles) long from one side of Prince Edward Island to the other. Including the spur trails, it has a total length of 435km (270 miles). Unfortunately, Dorian had caused havoc here as well. Our intended direction was blocked multiple times, so we headed the opposite way for a bit.
Victoria-by-the-Sea
Since we were not in a rush anymore, we made the detour to Victoria. The lobster roll of the Lobster Barn came recommended, so we had to splurge again. And, there was another lighthouse!
Confederation Bridge
Then came the dreaded moment of parting with CAN$48 to take the bridge back to the mainland. The Confederation Bridge is the “longest bridge over a body of ice”. Fortunately, there was no ice when we crossed, but the 13km (eight miles) bridge span was impressive nevertheless. Yet, we think “most expensive bridge fees” would make a better, all-year-round, claim.
The Confederation Bridge
Despite sitting through a hurricane, the three of us thoroughly enjoyed Prince Edward Island and we’d return in a heartbeat. Whenever we save up another $50. ????
Have you ever visited PEI? What were your impressions?
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October 1, 2019 at 12:35
We loved PEI too. So glad you got to Victoria. We got permission to camp in the seaside parking lot there so we met several of the colorful local characters. Has the chocolate factory closed? I assume so since you didn’t mention it.
October 1, 2019 at 20:02
Hi Leslie! We didn’t see a chocolate factory and the seaside lot had “no overnight camping” signs everywhere. Nice that you got to spend a night in Victoria. It’s one of those places that charms and where one could get involved with the local characters and culture. We were leaving the island the day we visited, so had no interest in spending the night there, but I can totally see the draw!
October 1, 2019 at 15:01
Boy, little Zesty just keeps on cruising! I loved this post, Liebet. Your photographs are stunning and you know I love the lighthouses! They would make great jigsaw puzzles. I’ve never been to PEI, but I’d love to see it one day. Thanks for sharing. Safe travels!
October 1, 2019 at 20:06
Nova Scotia, PEI, and Maine boil over with lighthouses. I see a fun road trip in your future, Jill. Maybe as research for a next romance novel? 🙂
Since we bought Zesty two years ago, we’ve put 30,000 miles on him.
October 2, 2019 at 01:52
I think you’re right, Liesbet! Really? I figured Zesty would have at least 100K by now. Roll on! 🙂
October 2, 2019 at 04:59
We have another long trip the end of this month, but then we will be stationary for a couple of months. I’m glad Zesty doesn’t have 100K miles yet. We’d like to sell her with relatively low mileage still. These vans easily go up to 200-300K, so there’s no rush yet. 🙂
October 1, 2019 at 15:34
We have never visited PEI, but it looks lovely. Charlottetown is so charming… I would have liked to spend a few days there too. Oh, and lighthouses! I guess it makes sense that there are so many, but it’s also nice that each is a little architectural gem on its own. I’m glad to see that you allowed yourselves to splurge now and then.
October 1, 2019 at 20:09
We’re getting better at the splurging, Janis. We will see how that is reflected in our monthly expense reports… 🙂
I think next summer, you and Paul should plan a road trip and vacation on this side of the country/continent. You probably have been to Maine – with its many picturesque lighthouses – so PEI might have to be your next destination. Very different from Vancouver Island!
October 1, 2019 at 17:27
I have a hard time reading your posts lately – I’m so jealous. But we only have a couple more days and we are on the road again – so can’t wait!
PEI looks very nice and it looks like you had some good splurges! I’m sure paying $30 extra for the battery was worth the piece of mind.
Are you still in Canada? Friends recently visited Grand Manan. It looks gorgeous. It’s another Ferry ride – but not quite as expensive as going (or rather coming back from) PEI.
October 1, 2019 at 20:14
I’ve heard and read about Grand Manan and if we ever go back to New Brunswick, I’d love to visit and hike the island, but we skipped it this time. When we were close to it, the weather wasn’t great. Plus, between the fee for the ferry and the longish ride there, we decided it wasn’t for us. At that time.
We’re not in Canada anymore. We actually just returned to our “home base” in Newburyport, MA, with my parents. Now, we are managing two pairs of parents. 🙂 Soon, I’ll be envious of you two as we don’t have more excitement planned this year. It will be work and stationary lives for a bit.
October 1, 2019 at 18:14
So many lighthouses!
Dorian hit there harder than she hit where I live, which is still freaky.
What would you do without Maya now? She’s with you in so many shots.
October 1, 2019 at 20:17
Hi Alex! I’m trying to figure out where you live, to get an idea about Dorian’s impact…
You are so right, it’s hard to imagine life without Maya anymore. We’ve had her four months now and she is an integral part of the family. As with our previous dogs, she does everything with us and joins us wherever she’s allowed. And, by now, she has met both sets of her “grandparents”. 🙂
October 1, 2019 at 23:21
Hi, Liesbet – I love Prince Edward Island. Your post brought back many fond memories for me. I’m glad that you have enjoyed your time in Canada. We’d love to have you here even more often!! 😀
October 2, 2019 at 04:56
Hi Donna! I can definitely see why you love PEI. If it wasn’t for the cold (and in some areas, rainy) weather, we would seriously consider moving to Canada! 🙂
October 2, 2019 at 06:24
PEI looks beautiful. I’ve long wanted to visit–I loved Nova Scotia. But it is expensive, especially the food. The lobster rolls are worth it, though.
Hopefully you thought so too.
October 2, 2019 at 13:08
I rarely eat lobster rolls, but I enjoyed the one we tried in Victoria-by-the-Sea. In general, I find crab has more flavor than lobster, so I happily eat that as well. Although, ever heard of a crab roll? 🙂 One of the ways we keep our expenses to a minimum – in Western countries anyway – is by cooking almost all of our meals in the camper.
October 2, 2019 at 12:39
Nice pics
October 2, 2019 at 13:09
Thanks!
October 2, 2019 at 13:23
We really liked PEI, though I think we were only there two nights. Not long enough! We went over the bridge and returned by ferry.
October 2, 2019 at 14:56
Aha, you did the opposite of us getting to and leaving PEI. I’m glad you enjoyed the island. I guess we both have to return one day. 🙂
October 2, 2019 at 13:33
You captured quite a bit of tension in this post. Beautiful and scary. 🙂
Anna from elements of emaginette
October 2, 2019 at 14:57
You always beat me to it, Anna! I intend for you to read my IWSG post on IWSG post day, but I never have my post up in time for your visit, so instead you always find one about my recent non-writing adventures… 🙂
October 2, 2019 at 14:08
Hi Liesbet,
Dan and I have been to many of the places you mentioned…PEI is rolling-hill pretty with quaint villages. We also visited the Anne of Green Gables site…
And, in my opinion – because I harbor an irrational fear of bridges and love boats – the ferry is the way to go!
And sometimes convenience trumps price. Just sayin’. Glad the battery worked out.
October 2, 2019 at 14:59
We love ferries (and boats as well) – in general – so I can see why you prefer them as transportation devices. And, yes, sometimes convenience beats price. Unfortunately, we are rarely in that situation or mental state to pay the extra bucks. Since, usually, the convenient way is more than just a few extra bucks. I do expect this to change as we get older. 🙂
October 5, 2019 at 15:30
Prince Edward Island is so beautiful – it’s too bad the storm prevented you from seeing it at its best.
And I feel your pain about the expensive car parts. It’s SO annoying to see the U.S. prices on websites and know that we’ll pay twice as much here “just because”. But I’m glad you feel safe and confident in your van again – that’s worth a lot! 🙂
October 8, 2019 at 09:57
We often felt sorry for you, Canadians, when buying groceries and other items north of the border, Diane. We even had to buy some wine at three times the price of our favorite (and affordable) red blend in Trader Joe’s. And that was the cheapest bottle we could find. Fuel is the worst, though, so not having to commute is a big win for you!
On the other hand, propane gas is much cheaper than in the US and so are bags of potato chips. 🙂 I highly recommend not looking at sites like Amazon anymore. And, enjoying your vegetable garden as long as possible!
October 8, 2019 at 12:32
Excellent advice! 🙂
October 7, 2019 at 18:57
You make a fantastic tour guide Liesbet. Thanks for featuring this beautiful part of my country. The photos are spectacular as always. <3
October 8, 2019 at 10:05
Thank you for those wonderful compliments, Debby. In another life, I could be a tour guide. I’d actually enjoy it. But, one has to live in one particular area to do so…
October 8, 2019 at 12:07
So sorry I missed this Liesbet, your images are stunning of the lighthouses! Been super busy with things, hope you are having a good week!
October 9, 2019 at 16:07
Same here, Terri, incredibly busy!!! Now that my parents have left, I hope to catch up on some blog reading and writing, commenting, paid work, and memoir queries… Wishing you a fabulous week!
October 16, 2019 at 21:58
I want to visit!
October 17, 2019 at 16:24
Go ahead! 🙂
November 1, 2019 at 14:01
I would love to visit PEI some day. Your photos are great.
We tend to be fairly spontaneous when we travel too. The advantage is that when we find a place we really love, we stay longer and really explore it. On the other hand, certain things do need to be planned in advance or you miss out on it.
Jude
November 2, 2019 at 20:28
And that’s why we miss out on quite a few things, Jude, because we never plan. We love to be spontaneous and flexible and hate the stress and time restrictions when plans are put in motion, so we have come to terms with missing out as much as we do. Sometimes, we are just too lazy to figure things out too much ahead of time as well. Traveling can be exhausting! 🙂