I’ve mentioned it before on this blog: Mark and I don’t plan much and often “wing” it on the road, whether that’s in regards to our route, what we visit, or where we park for the night. It’s just easier to go with the flow; we don’t have to plan, research, and be disappointed if things go wrong and we love putting our flexible minds to good use.
When the three of us left Newburyport, Massachusetts, the end of September, we had about a week to cover the 1,000-mile distance to Campbellsville, Kentucky. Two stops were anticipated: Greenwich, Connecticut for two days of quality time with relatives, and the southern Walmart in Hagerstown (yes, there are two), Maryland, to meet up with our awesome van friends Duwan and Greg.
Greenwich, CT
What can I say? It is always a joy to be with our brother-in-law, Brian, and his lovely wife, Margaret. Fabulous, smart, pretty, and beaming niece Chelsea came over for one of the days – the cherry on top. She introduced her rescued Korean dog Mochi to us and we also met the two new kittens. Can you tell why this is a happy place for us, with all this love for animals and people going around?
(Hover over photos to read captions or click to enlarge.)
Hagerstown, MD
Not that we are seeing anything of these two places along the way… Yet, being surrounded by like-minded people and fun friends brings us to the strangest places. Walmart parking lot or not, freezing cold or not, good company is more important than nice locations or warm climes, don’t you agree? We had a great evening with Duwan and Greg, sharing food and drinks in Zesty. Until we meet again!
And, the story might have ended here, since we had zero plans afterwards.
“Where are you headed to next?” Duwan asked, that evening in the parking lot.
“No idea,” came the answer. “There must be something to see in West Virginia as we drive through.”
“Well, Harpers Ferry is not too far from here,” our friend suggested.
The town sounded familiar. Not to be mixed up with Lees Ferry in Arizona. A quick look at the map showed Harpers Ferry as a small detour.
“Sold! That’s where we are going next.” I looked at Mark.
He shrugged. “Why not?” A quick Google search suggested a penitentiary, an asylum, and a few state parks to visit as well. Soon, we’d be running out of time!
Antietam National Battlefield, MD
The following morning, we said goodbye to our friends and hit the road again. As we followed the GPS route to Harpers Ferry, we passed a brown sign, Antietam National Battlefield.
“Maybe we should go there first,” I said. The name sounded intriguing.
“I’ve heard of that battlefield from the Civil War,” Mark added. “Sure, let’s go.”
That’s how we pulled into the parking lot of these grounds and managed to use our National Park pass again. Dogs are allowed on leash. If you wonder about the long rope attached to our furry companion, we forgot Maya’s leash in Greenwich and were too cheap to buy another one at a store. Instead, the one ordered online would be waiting for us in Kentucky.
Maya joined us on the 1.6-mile Bloody Lane Trail, that brought us past a few monuments, through Bloody Lane (which used to be called Sunken Road before the battle), up the observation tower, by the historic Mumma and Roulette farms caught between enemy lines, and back to Dunker Church, associated with peace and love during the civil war and acting as a temporary medical aid station by the Confederates at the end of the battle. The Battle of Antietam was fought on September 17th, 1862 and was one of the bloodiest battles in the history of the US, with over 5,000 casualties in that one day!
Almost Heaven, West Virginia
Every time I thought or talked about driving through West Virginia, the John Denver song (yes, that one) jumped in my mind and stayed. Not that I knew the lyrics, growing up as a Dutch-speaking teenager (I thought it was mighty mama instead of mountain mama, for example). So, I HAD to listen to Take Me Home, Country Roads over and over during this road trip through the state. Until I memorized the lyrics. Here goes:
Almost heaven, West Virginia
Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River
Life is old there, older than the trees
Younger than the mountains, growing like a breezeCountry roads, take me home
To the place I belong
West Virginia, mountain mama
Take me home, country roadsAll my memories gather ’round her
Miner’s lady, stranger to blue water
Dark and dusty, painted on the sky
Misty taste of moonshine, teardrop in my eyeCountry roads, take me home
To the place I belong
West Virginia, mountain mama
Take me home, country roadsI hear her voice, in the morning hour she calls me
The radio reminds me of my home far away
Driving down the road, I get a feeling
That I should have been home yesterday, yesterdayCountry roads, take me home
To the place I belong
West Virginia, mountain mama
Take me home, country roadsCountry roads, take me home
To the place I belong
West Virginia, mountain mama
Take me home, country roadsTake me home, down country roads
Take Me Home, Country Roads by John Denver
Take me home, down country roads
I only have to see this sign, or read this name, to have that song in my head!!
Harpers Ferry, WV
The town of Harpers Ferry is located along the Patomac River (there is even a bike path from here all the way to Washington DC, called the C&O Towpath) and contains Harpers Ferry National Historical Park with 19th century buildings and museums. It’s most famous for the (failed) raid against a federal armory, led by abolitionist John Brown, in an attempt to start an armed slave revolt and destroy the institution of slavery.
Blackwater Falls State Park, WV
I’m a sucker for waterfalls, so when we discovered that the Blackwater Falls were on our way southwest, we had to stop. The three of us walked the easy path to the falls and followed one short trail, but decided to skip real hiking, as we were too cold. Whine. Whine.
We had half a day left…
“How about that asylum,” I asked Mark.
“Let me check how far away it is and at what time the last tour leaves,” he responded.
The drive was two hours in a normal car, closer to two and a half in our Zesty, and the last tour took place at 5pm, at which time it would be dark and cold to leave Maya alone in the camper. Plus, we still had to figure out where we would camp. It was 1:30pm; I was determined we could make the 4pm tour.
Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum, WV
We pulled into the parking lot at 3:50pm, quickly settled Maya, and ran to the entrance of the building. First, we had to sign a waiver. Then, we paid the entrance fee of $10 a person, plus tax, for the one-hour tour. There are many different tours and an intriguing museum. Talk about a spooky place… But a popular one, based on its Facebook page with over 180,000 likes!
Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum
The Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum (aka the Weston State Hospital) is a National Historic Landmark that served as a sanctuary for the mentally ill, from 1864 until 1994. It’s the largest hand-cut stone masonry building in North America and is purportedly the second largest in the world, after the Kremlin. It holds fascinating stories of Civil War raids, a gold robbery, the “curative” effects of architecture, and the efforts of determined individuals to help better the lives of the mentally ill.
The rooms are in the same state as they were when the asylum closed in the 1990’s and it was extremely cold. The building is currently closed for renovations, but if you visit in the fall or spring, bring a warm coat!
Charleston, WV
I did a little happy dance when I found out we were going to drive through Charleston and that this is the capital of West Virginia. For some reason, I’m into seeing state capitols, so I wasn’t going to pass this one up if I could help it. I convinced Mark to make the small detour into the mellow city. We paid for an hour of parking and walked to the impressive building, which – unfortunately – had its dome wrapped up. We also had a peek at the Governor’s Mansion and enjoyed the sunshine along the river. Did you know that West Virginia remained within the Union and that’s why it seceded from Virginia, which supported the Confederates?
Bonus Stop: Harrisburg, PA
Just to prove my point about state capitols, we also made a quick and frigid stop in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, when I discovered this was a capital and it was on the way. Yes, I need to read up and learn about US geography and history a bit more… The Pennsylvania State Capitol was a piece of art and a truly enjoyable visit, inside and out!
And that concludes this tour of our route between Newburyport, MA and Campbellsville, KY. Thank you for coming along. In the next post I hope to finally explain why the heck we drove to the middle of Kentucky!
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December 13, 2019 at 01:24
All of these stops look great in different ways. That asylum looks downright spooky with all those dummies everywhere. I love the photo of Mark and Maya on the edge of the forest. I bet Maya can’t quite believe her luck!
December 13, 2019 at 12:06
Hi guys! West Virginia had quite a lot to offer in our opinion. And, yes, that Maya is a lucky girl. Not sure whether she realizes it, but she does soak up all the love, attention, and walking and hiking. 🙂 A tail-wagging dog makes us smile!
December 13, 2019 at 04:25
You really packed a lot of interesting stops into that 1,000 mile journey! Hope you are both holding up well in Kentucky and that you are having better weather than we are. HaRVy’s heater is really getting a workout. Take care.
December 13, 2019 at 12:09
Hi Leslie! You guys are still braving the UK! We might have left by now… The weather in Kentucky has been hit or miss. Some unseasonably comfortable and sunny days (luckily on our days off so far) and then snow flurries, frost, and lots of rain. Ten more days… It’s doable, especially with our amazing little electric heater. 🙂
December 13, 2019 at 05:54
I really enjoyed reading about your travels, Liesbet. The asylum is kind of creepy. My family is from West Virginia. My parents met in Charleston and my mother worked at Charleston General Hospital. I was born in Huntington. I’m so happy you shared the lyrics to Country Roads.I’m a huge John Denver fan and this some is a favorite of mine even though I usually cry when I hear it…lots of memories. Thanks for sharing!
December 13, 2019 at 12:12
Hi Jill! I didn’t know you had connections with Charleston and that you were born in West Virginia. I really enjoyed exploring and getting to know the state! I hope I didn’t make you cry with the lyrics this time. Of course, that song has been playing in my head for days again (I’m wondering whether that’s happening to my readers as well), as I composed, picked photos, and later posted and reviewed this blog! It is one of those songs that could evoke strong memories; hopefully they are good ones.
December 13, 2019 at 08:35
So much beauty that you found in West Virginia but I think my favorite was the visit to the Lunatic Asylum …what a crazy place 😉
Country Roads was written by Bill Danoff, Taffy Niven and John Denver. I met Bill and Taffy through a comedian that I dated in New York. There is an interesting backstory to the song on Wikipedia that I think you would enjoy. Bill and Taffy also found fame with Afternoon Delight which you may remember.
December 13, 2019 at 12:17
Hi Lisa!
I remember your (photography) interest in some spooky places during your sailing journey, so I’m not surprised you were drawn to this asylum. The fact that it was cold, barren, and eerie didn’t help with feeling comfortable during that tour!
Thanks for the tidbits about the Country Roads song. You have met the most interesting people in your life. I think it’s worthy of a memoir! 🙂 I’ll check out the Wikipedia story. I’d have to hear the Afternoon Delight song to find out whether I know it or not. I’m bad with names.
December 13, 2019 at 12:22
Lucky you didn’t tour the asylum by yourself ;-). I almost want to caution you against listening to Afternoon Delight because it will be stuck in your mind for a long, long time
December 13, 2019 at 12:30
Now you got me even more curious about that song. I’ll have to wait to listen until Mark is up, though… His five days of night shifts have started again and he is still sleeping above me at the moment.
December 13, 2019 at 10:14
Really entertaining post. Thanks!
December 13, 2019 at 12:26
I’m glad you enjoyed it! As ex-sailors, seasoned travelers, and successful expats, you guys know everything about being flexible and going with the flow. 🙂
December 13, 2019 at 12:06
Hi Liesbet,
Harper’s Ferry is on our list for traveling next year. The asylum looks creepy, but I think I’d like to see that, too!
December 13, 2019 at 12:32
Hi Nancy! I wish now that we spent more time in Harpers Ferry to see a few of the museums, visit the fort, and walk further along the river. It’s a very enjoyable (and touristy) town to spend time. The asylum sure is one of a kind as well. Sounds like you have a pretty cool road trip in mind for next year!
December 13, 2019 at 12:40
I love reading your endless adventures on the road, Liesbet! You packed a lot into this leg of the journey. I feel the same way about John Denver songs, one of my favorite artists growing up. My only visit to the east coast was to Baltimore and Washington DC years ago. Seeing that part of the US is special and perhaps now that you are a citizen, you feel some pride in learning US history as you travel to various destinations.
December 13, 2019 at 20:15
Isn’t that John Denver song the perfect one for a road trip, Terri? You guys should make sure you can play it on your winter RV adventure! I’ve always loved the Baltimore – DC area. My ex-boyfriend was living there when I first came to this country. Washington DC is actually my favorite city in the US to visit. Lots of history in the east, indeed. And you are right, learning about it all does affect me differently now!
December 13, 2019 at 12:59
You are married to the right man for these adventures, Liesbet! And on top of that – traveling with the right doggy. Thanks for printing the lyrics to that familiar song. I never knew the phrase in the refrain is actually “mountain mama”!
Choice line: Walmart parking lot or not, freezing cold or not, good company is more important than nice locations or warm climes, don’t you agree?
Yes, I do agree!
December 13, 2019 at 20:18
Hi Marian! I may not forget that Mark and I are a pretty good match when it comes to living this less than ordinary life, despite the challenges we face. We’ve been an amazing – close-quartered – team for fifteen years. So, did you think “mountain mama” was “mighty mama” as well? Please, say “yes”! 🙂
I’m glad you agree with my accrued wisdom that happy social times with people we like are more important than being in places we (might) like!
December 13, 2019 at 13:02
I so admire your flexible ways and being able to embrace suggestions as they come. I’m not sure if we will ever get that good at it but Perhaps we could make a start by not having every single night booked on a trip! The asylum tugs at my heart strings. We had them here in Canada as well and as a nursing student I trained in a city that had one. Luckily my shifts were in the new facility but the tour in the old one with patients still there left some very sad and vivid images.
December 13, 2019 at 20:22
If you’re used to planning (and reserving) everything, it will be very daunting to step away from that method, Sue. It’s best to try a little bit at a time, with a (planned) back-up plan and see how you do.
I had no idea about your experiences in a Canadian asylum. Doing a tour in one of these (especially when not in use anymore) as a visitor surely is not the same as having worked and/or trained in one. I can imagine that there was a lot of unorthodox and shocking stuff going on and to think about these individuals being stuck in one of those asylums for the rest of their lives – often without getting visitors – is extremely sad.
December 13, 2019 at 13:55
So I have passed by the Georgia state capitol building in Atlanta probably hundreds of times but never ever thought about visiting it or even looking at it up close. It does have an impressive gilded gold dome, though. Perhaps we will take a tour next time we are in Atlanta.
I really enjoy planning. I like to have lots of options that I know about ahead of time to pick and choose from – especially off the beaten path places you don’t find in normal travel guides. I often find planning on the road to be stressful but we do do a bit of making everything up on the fly, too. We also very easily change our plans – when we hear about some place interesting to visit that we didn’t know about previously, to meet up with friends, or as has happened quiet a bit lately because Ballena Blanca has other ideas.
You made a lot of great stops! We were just at a civil war medicine talk yesterday and someone brought up Antietam. Gotta go there now. And I love the Lunatic Asylum. Glad you made it in time for the tour.
December 13, 2019 at 20:30
When something is extremely familiar, we don’t think about it, let alone see it in a different light and contemplate visiting it. The same happened with those historic buildings in Newburyport, MA, when my parents visited and enjoyed their architecture.
I know you enjoy planning a lot, Duwan – and your ideas and planning have helped us, even! 🙂 I think you got a healthy balance going with the plans, anticipation, and flexibility, and you sure don’t miss out on anything if you can help it. We always miss out on a lot, because of our laziness and different use of time…
December 13, 2019 at 16:19
We’ve visited West Virginia a couple of times so I know some of these places. Local people seemed to think we were really weird to want to visit there from Scotland, but we always found lots of interest. West Virginia didn’t join the Confederates because it was too poor to have slaves is what I remember.
December 13, 2019 at 20:34
Hi Anabel!
Local people can be funny… I have a story about that from an encounter with a Kentucky local recently as well. What’s familiar to them would not look special to others, I guess. I remember growing up in Belgium and wondering why anyone would ever visit my country, since there was “nothing” to see! 🙂
I didn’t know about the poorness and not being able to own slaves is West Virginia story. I should look that up. Thanks for the insight.
December 13, 2019 at 20:07
Good for you for going wherever your whims take you! I would have loved to visit the asylum… for some reason, I like those types of place (perhaps I’m crazy 🙂 ). I know I’ve been to West Virginia before (didn’t know about the history of its succession, though) but probably just to pass through. It looks like I may need to plan a longer stay next time.
December 13, 2019 at 20:39
We do love our flexible lifestyle, Janis, but we often feel we are missing out on a lot as well. I think sometimes we are just tired of planning or figuring things out or having the need to “see and do it all”. Well, I used to have that need as a twentier… Tiredness and laziness and maybe contentment and older age have taken over that desire.
West Virginia surprised us in a very positive way. I know there is something to see in every state, but we didn’t really expect anything here (or in Kentucky), so that’s when those pleasant surprises happen. Another reason to wing/whim things! 🙂
I’m a tad surprised you would have loved to visit the asylum… Next time you travel through West Virginia, it will have to go on your list!
December 14, 2019 at 23:07
West Virginia was like my back yard when I was growing up in western Pennsylvania. We kept a boat near Morgantown, and in high school, certain people drove down over the border on weekend nights because their drinking age was only 18 and PA’s was always 21! I belt out that John Denver song on any drive through the state, and I do that drive a lot, even now when I go by car from Texas back home to PA. I have so many favorite stops, but you hit some good ones. If you do it again, let me know and I’ll give you a new list to try!
December 15, 2019 at 12:53
Hi Lexie!
I can totally imagine you playing that John Denver song and singing along on your many road trips through the country and through the state! I’ll take you up on that West Virginia list of things to see and do. The problem will probably be that we won’t know we will drive through it again, until we see the state border sign. If there is one…
If we end up driving through Texas in the spring, I’ll let you know!
December 16, 2019 at 20:19
Thanks for this wonderful tour again Liesbet. This little tour is probably the closest I’ll get to visiting those parts – so much more on my bucket list. 🙂 Your zest for life shows up in all your travels, maybe that’s why you named your van Zesty? LOL. Happy holidays my friend to you and Mark <3
December 16, 2019 at 22:39
Hi Debby! You nailed it. That zest for life is certainly there, in our lives and travels. And, Zesty rhymes with Westy, which is the “brand” of our van, a Mercedes Sprinter – Westfalia, aka Westy. 🙂
Happy Holidays to you as well, my dear friend. I hope you can stay warm!!!
December 17, 2019 at 09:40
LOL, love it! And thanks for the lovely wishes. 7 More weeks and off to the heat of Mexico! <3
December 18, 2019 at 13:12
Wow, you sure cram a lot into a trip. Despite all your lovely photos, the one that caught my eye (and not in a good way) was that Tranquilizing Chair. YIKES! That just gave me the creeps.
Stay warm out there! 🙂
December 19, 2019 at 19:24
Based on your comment, it sounds like you travel even slower than us, Diane, as I think this road trip took us seven days. 🙂 I hear you about that tranquilizing chair – the museum exhibits were what gave me the most creeps as well.
December 19, 2019 at 16:37
I’m always inspired by your journeys, unexpected and planned. Your photos lead us along the way, both entertaining and really lovely. We’ve just welcomed a new cat in for our 7-year-old granddaughter. She named him ‘Cupcake’ — and he’s already a treasure. The dog arrives this Friday for the 5-year-old. Both are thrilled, and so are their parents. Now for road trips. We’re heading south for rainy Oregon and then a week-stay in Puerto Vallarta, so I’ll follow your lead and post some pictures. Happy travels in 2020!
December 19, 2019 at 19:27
Hi Beth!
Yay for the new pets! Did they move in with you two, or with your child? That will bring some extra activity and heightened fun into the household! Looking forward to seeing photos about your road trip and vacation to the sun!
Happy travels and exciting writing projects to you in 2020 as well!
December 28, 2019 at 14:43
Wow, that John Denver tune took me back to my teenage years. One of my close high school friends was a huge John Denver fan and we listened to this song a lot (on an 8-track tape in his car). Either that or Gordon Lightfoot.
Jude
December 28, 2019 at 20:30
Hi Jude! Thank you for binge reading all my posts. 🙂 And, did you have this John Denver song in your head for days after seeing the lyrics and reminiscing? Such good memories of your high school friend! Cherish them.
January 10, 2020 at 20:29
Hi Liesbet, A very interesting post, Liesbet. I learn a great deal from you and live vicariously through you and your adventures. I agree with you on how good company is more important. When I saw the name “West Virginia” I also thought about John Denver. I think I know all of John Denver’s songs by heart. And now you know all the lyrics to this song, too, Liesbet. The photos of the asylum gave me the heeby jeebys. I think using the word “lunatic” does not help. Thank you for an informative tour and I always appreciate the photos!
January 13, 2020 at 20:43
Hello Erica! I’m so glad I still manage to capture your attention with my trips and photos. As always, I appreciate your reading and commenting. And, complimenting! I think it’s time to listen to John Denver again this very moment! 🙂