Salmon return to their home waters, upstream, to spawn and die. That’s about all Mark and I knew about these fish and the “salmon run” when autumn approached. Other than their meat being expensive and tasty, especially smoked.
During our stay on Vancouver Island in September, we learned that it was soon to be the height of the Pink Salmon run. There are five different wild Pacific salmon species in this part of the world: Chinook, Sockeye, Coho, Chum, and Pink.
When we hiked along rivers, we peered into the crystal-clear waters, expecting hundreds of fish leap against the stream and up waterfalls. It wasn’t quite like that, but we did see a couple of salmon attempt this amazing feat. They were immediately swept back downstream to rest up and try again. Capturing them on camera was an even more challenging feat.
We heard about a fish hatchery in Qualicum Beach and decided to check it out, mid-September. The place was quiet, apart from a friendly employee who let us inside the compound for a close look at about 300 salmon in a water “pen”. He answered a few questions, but we didn’t learn much, except that “salmon season” had only begun.
Qualicum Beach hatchery
Upon our arrival in the town of Campbell River, Mark did a bit more research about the local fish hatchery. Every main river seems to have one of those in British Columbia, or at least on the island. The Quinsam River is no exception. “I want to see a bear catch a salmon,” he stated. I was all ears. Watching wildlife is one of my grandest pleasures in life. On our sailboat Irie, we were often in close proximity to dolphins, whales, rays, sharks, tropical fish, exotic birds, you name it (especially in the Galápagos Islands), but on land, encounters are less frequent. (Click on the blue links for some of those amazing wildlife experiences.)
That same day, I was Skyping with my friend Rosie, a rare occasion since I’ve been on the road full-time. When she asked what we were up to the coming days, I told her about our quest: “Mark and I are going to watch a bear catch a salmon and I will take a photo of it.” She laughed. “Good luck with that!” she answered. Did I sense a hint of irony and disbelief?
The next day, Mark and I drove up to the Quinsam River Hatchery and read the interpretive display about the salmon migration, their habitat loss, and the purpose of hatcheries. After spending years in the ocean, adult salmon return to the place where they were born, sometimes hundreds of miles upriver. They fight the current, pollution, predators and injuries as they make this arduous journey against all odds. They are attracted by the scent of the water that they were born and raised in. When they survive and their instinct brings them to this particular place, the females lie eggs in gravel patches and the males release their sperm to fertilize them. This action is called spawning. Depending on the type of salmon, the little ones remain in the river for up to a year, or immediately set out to sea, changing from a fresh water fish into a salt water one along the way. Incredible! Then, the cycle starts anew.
Because of the decline in salmon (overfishing our oceans has drastically reduced the amount of fish returning to the rivers), hatcheries attempt to reverse the process by guiding certain quantities of salmon into basins, killing chosen individuals with a quick blow on the head, artificially collecting eggs, and mixing them with sperm. Clean water is added to complete the fertilization. The incubation happens under a watchful eye. The eggs that have black dots (eyes) are kept, the others discarded. The fry are held in rearing ponds until big enough and ready to be released into the wild. Dead salmon are returned to nature, as they provide nutrients and food for plants and animals.
A black blur in the bushes
After we learned more about this process, Mark and I made our way to the river. A group of people sat quietly, staring through camera lenses. “I bet there’s a bear across the water,” Mark said. Sure enough, a black blur moved among the bushes. The prime rocks were taken as spectator seats, so I squatted further along, out of view. A good choice, as the black bear moved that direction, stuck his head in the water, appeared with a fish in his mouth and returned to the forest. What just happened? Mark managed to see the sequence through binoculars, while I snapped photos of the dark surroundings. It was incredible, and I wanted more.
About a week later, after exploring some of the north island, Mark and I returned to the same hatchery on a sunny afternoon. It was a hub of activity this time; we couldn’t believe our eyes. Guided tours, tons of visitors, men and women at work with the salmon, piles of dead fish trapped along the gate downriver, and less Pink Salmon making their way upriver.
We scanned the river edges and watched how Coho Salmon that had made their way into the hatchery with the Pinks were released back into the river. It wasn’t time for them to be handled and processed yet. As we strolled back, again, a bunch of people scouted the opposite bank of the river with cameras. A healthy black bear, uncaring about his intent audience, trotted along the river, looking for a snack.
Black bear out for a stroll
He caught a salmon and disappeared into the woods. Searching for a good vantage point, I had missed it! Mark explained what happened. I was disappointed. But… the bear returned, waded into the river, played with a dead fish, caught another salmon, discarded it, and snatched a healthy one, before returning to the trees.
His picky behavior produced the video I so desperately wanted to shoot. Some of you might have seen it on Facebook, but here’s the footage again.
And, so it happened that we satisfied one of our two desires. The other one, kayaking with orcas, did not work out, as it was too late in the season for this adventure. We did have plenty of other amazing experiences on Vancouver Island, though. More about that next week.
To read the photo captions, hover your mouse over the images, tap them once, or click to make them larger.
Note: I’m slowly catching up on blogs about our RVing lifestyle, which started the end of July. Our current location can be found in the right column of this website.
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October 19, 2018 at 22:56
You saw two different bears in a seven day time frame? That’s like winning the lottery! Great shots!
Awesome post and photos.
Enjoy Oregon — the gang is missing you here in Palm Desert!
October 21, 2018 at 18:38
Thanks, Donna. It was amazing. I do think that, in the fall when the salmon run, with patience, anyone will be able to see a bear in the vicinity of this particular hatchery. Being able to do so within five minutes of arrival the first time and about an hour the second time is where luck comes in! Maybe we should buy a lottery ticket one of these days. The jackpot in the US next week is over one billion!! 🙂
I’m happy to read that you’re having such a good time back in the desert. And, I’m missing the gang (and the weather)! Luckily, we have a string of friends to visit on our way south, so we are not lonely at all. 🙂
October 20, 2018 at 05:18
You scored big with catching bears catching fish!
I guess the fish raised in those ponds will return there and it’s safer for them?
October 21, 2018 at 18:40
Yes, many will return to these waters and then follow the “attraction channel” into the hatchery (the way they left), or they will return upriver in a more natural environment. Most of the released salmon will die, however, as only a very small percentage survive and die a natural death.
October 20, 2018 at 05:27
Wow! These are fabulous photos, Liesbet. We’re adding professional wildlife photograph to your already extensive resume. Thanks for sharing your visit to the hatchery with us…I learned so much. Safe travels, my friend.
October 21, 2018 at 18:42
Not sure those photos had to do with skill, Jill. 🙂 If you have time, check out the links to all the other wild animals I mention in one of the paragraphs. That’s what I miss most from our previous lifestyle… It’s all about being in the right place at the right time!
Thanks for the well-wishes. Mark and I are slowly making our way south, to California.
October 20, 2018 at 09:14
Great captures of the bear catching a salmon Liesbet, what a treat to see! ???????? xxx
October 21, 2018 at 18:43
I’m glad you liked the shots and the experience! And, thank you for visiting my blog. Do you have a blog/website as well?
October 22, 2018 at 01:31
Yes dear Liesbet, I have two blogs (Whippet Wisdom and Tranature) and you have visited many times already! ???????? xxx
October 24, 2018 at 11:10
Haha! You got me there, Xenia. I didn’t recognize the name “Tranature”.
October 21, 2018 at 07:36
So amazing! I thought the initial photos were great, and then you came up with more of them AND a great video. I’d love to see both of these creatures in action someday. When my husband worked at the Dept. of the Interior, he used to send me links to some of the nature cams the department had and the one with bears and salmon at Katmai NP in Alaska was always my fave!
October 21, 2018 at 18:47
Oh, those nature cams are just spectacular! That must have been spectacular to watch the “real thing” in Alaska, via the webcams. I’ve only seen documentaries about that. I guess you have to be lucky with the cams as well, to be alert at the right time. I had no idea your husband worked for the Dept. of Interior. He must have some fantastic stories to tell as well!
As for seeing the bears and salmon in action yourself: autumn on Vancouver Island. 🙂
October 21, 2018 at 09:30
Great post with awesome bear photos and video, Liesbet! It’s such a thrill to see wildlife in their habitats from a safe distance. Thank you for sharing.
October 21, 2018 at 18:48
A thrill, that’s a good description, Natalie. I wish I could watch wildlife forever. The other day, we saw about twenty spouts close to shore along the Oregon Coast. I could have sat and watched the whales at that viewpoint for hours! But, we had friends with us and needed to keep moving.
October 21, 2018 at 12:32
Good capture on the photos and videos! We were up there too late to watch this spectacle. Thanks for sharing.
October 21, 2018 at 18:49
Too late? So, did you guys have a lot of rain and cold temps then? You are even “braver” than us, traveling to BC in late fall or winter. 🙂
October 21, 2018 at 19:21
On my trip West years ago, we visited a salmon run, arriving during peak season and saw hundreds of fish swimming upstream to spawn. What a spectacle!
I’m guessing it’s chilly in Oregon this time of year.
Bon voyage, wherever you are now!
October 24, 2018 at 11:09
That sounds awesome, Marian. Mark and I pictured something similar in our minds, but didn’t quite see hundreds of them. You have to really time it just right! We lucked out with a week of sun and around 70 degrees here in Salem, Oregon (where we are staying with friends), but yesterday, fall arrived with rain and clouds. Time to move south again! I think we will be in California after the weekend.
October 22, 2018 at 02:55
I love this post, because like you “watching wildlife is one of my greatest pleasures in life” as well. Nothing makes me feel so much joy as seeing animals in their natural habitat. Contrary to that I do not like zoos and get very upset when I see caged animals of any type or any type of animal abuse.
Incredible photos and am so glad you got to witness those beautiful black bears.
And now you are in Oregon ~ have not been other than to Portland, yet I hear from so many about how dramatically beautiful the region is. Ben’s son lives in Portland so next time we visit him, we hope to select at least one place to add to the “itinerary”!
Super cool post. I so enjoyed it.
Peta
October 24, 2018 at 11:16
We can add that to our list of “shared pleasures”, Peta. Our friends here in Salem asked us yesterday whether they could treat us to a trip to the zoo, as they had the day off as well. We politely declined. The only exception I have made on that front is San Diego (zoo and wildlife park), because I know how they are making a difference with their conservation efforts and policies.
Oregon is a spectacular state. The underdog to California, I guess, but cheaper. Did you know there is no sales tax here? We have been ordering van parts and will stock up Zesty, before we leave in a few days. Portland is a cool city as well. Then, there are the mountains and the coast. Another long, photo-heavy blog post for the near future! 🙂
October 22, 2018 at 06:02
I was so disappointed we didn’t get to see a bear on our short trip to Shenandoah but now I have an even bigger goal – to see a bear catch a salmon! How cool! Loved the pics.
October 24, 2018 at 11:18
Haha! I guess it’s all about being in the right place at the right time. And, being there long enough. I remember seeing black bears in the Eastern mountains of the US and in the Yukon (Canada), and Alaska. This was many years ago. Not sure whether their numbers have declined, but I do remember spending days if not weeks in some of those areas.
October 22, 2018 at 19:12
You guys are amazing from land to sea, lol. Thanks for the education on salmon. Great photos! I really must be an east coast girl because I much prefer eating Atlantic salmon. Enjoy Oregon! 🙂
October 24, 2018 at 11:22
I had no idea there was a difference in taste between the Atlantic and Pacific salmon! I must do a taste test one day. We don’t eat it enough to have noticed, I guess. 🙂
Oregon is our cup of tea, Debby. Thanks for the well-wishes.
October 24, 2018 at 15:26
Enjoy! And even though wild salmon is the healthiest, I just can’t take the fishy taste. Oh, and the ultimate salmon is Scottish salmon! 🙂
October 24, 2018 at 16:45
I’ll have to try that one day. 🙂 Have a wonderful rest of your week, Debby!
October 23, 2018 at 04:16
Cool captures, Liesbet. I’m glad you managed to see the bears. Seeing them catching salmon and actually filming it is a big plus. I wonder if the salmon know that ‘bear’ danger lurks? The river looked quite shallow in places, so I guess them getting away was made much harder.
October 24, 2018 at 11:24
Good eye, Hugh! The river was very shallow. The bear could just wade across and take a pick. The salmon must know about the danger. It’s important for a healthy river habitat that they can hide under bushes and brush along the river side, and that there are slower flowing areas where they can rest up. The bears probably know about those areas as well. 🙂
October 25, 2018 at 04:19
I’m guessing they do, Liesbet. I wonder if bears feel like do when I enter a chocolate shop? “Which do I choose? So much choice.”
October 26, 2018 at 01:01
That certainly was happening with the last bear we saw. He was extremely picky! 🙂
October 23, 2018 at 04:46
WOW! I don’t call that luck, I call it perseverance. AND you were THERE. You had the desire to learn about salmon and their journey and their predators, and you were rewarded. Thanks for sharing with us all here. It’s incredible.
October 24, 2018 at 11:25
That’s a nice way to look at it, Pam. You must know how I dislike the word “luck”. 🙂 I guess we could call this kind of encounter “strategy”. 🙂 I”m glad you liked the footage. Thanks for reading and commenting!
October 24, 2018 at 00:30
What a cool experience! I would have loved to see that.
Thanks for sharing.
October 24, 2018 at 11:27
You’re welcome, JH. Maybe you could write a book that features black bears and salmon and then you would have to study them up-close in the wild for a bit, marveling at the interactions. 🙂
October 24, 2018 at 15:40
Wow! I only saw one bear on our trip to Alaska (none in Canada), and he was quite a bit in the distance. I’m so glad you saw him, got great photos, and managed to grab a video. Well done!
October 24, 2018 at 16:46
Thanks, Janis. I’m so glad you had that experience during such a short trip over there. I remember seeing black bears in Alaska (and the Yukon) many years ago, so it had been a while since I spotted one in the wild.
October 24, 2018 at 19:16
Fascinating and informative post with some wonderful photos and a great video. Well done.
October 26, 2018 at 00:51
Thanks, Roland. It was one of those fabulous moments that will be etched in our memories forever!
October 26, 2018 at 10:57
How utterly wonderful to snap the bear-catching-salmon shots, right up there for me with the full moon and the bald eagle, Liesbet! (Due to what I’ve learned in my recent photography class, I got the almost full moon shot last night). Salmon are such interesting fish. Our part of NorCal has several fish hatcheries, one right on the American River at Lake Natoma just a few miles from us. I’ve also visited one in South Lake Tahoe. I hope our federal govt can continue to help this species for the good of our planet!
October 26, 2018 at 13:35
We’ve only spotted one bald eagle so far, Terri. But, I have to admit that we don’t look up at the sky often enough! Full moons are lovely, but very difficult to photograph, so I’m curious to see photos of your latest session on your blog. And, maybe some tips? I assume you’ll try again once she’s totally full. Those fish hatcheries are an enormous improvement for the salmon population and education of the public. Yet, there are always groups with objections to any human intervention.
November 21, 2018 at 11:02
Great shots of the bears and salmon, Liesbet.
Having spent most of my life in British Columbia, I am aware of the importance of salmon to the ecology here. The salmon, especially the pinks, are the backbone of the ecology, and are an important food source not only for the bears but for all the plants and animals and the indigenous peoples along the rivers and the coast. Not only has commercial over-fishing decimated the salmon stocks, but so has deforestation and the salmon “farms” (which introduce diseases, kill the ocean life below them, and result in escapement of non-native species). The fish hatcheries have reintroduced some salmon runs but they are a poor alternative to protecting the salmon in the first place.
Because of their role in destroying wild salmon, I do not eat farmed salmon. In a fish store or restaurant, I always ask whether the salmon is wild before I buy it.
Jude
November 21, 2018 at 18:47
Thanks, Jude. You hit the nail on the head with your comment. Mark and I have been doing some reading and researching about this topic while we were on your island and came to similar conclusions. It was interesting to learn about the vital importance of salmon in the food chain and in nature, even after they die. Like you, we never buy farmed salmon and look for the wild kind, if we can afford it. 🙂