Colombia is expansive and diverse, as we would soon learn. It is the 25th largest nation and has the third-highest level of biodiversity in the world, after Brazil and Indonesia. The country is bigger than Spain and France (or Texas and California) combined. While it had a bad reputation for many decades due to drug trafficking and guerilla activity, especially during the eighties and nineties, it is now regarded as one of the safest countries in Latin America.
A thread you will notice throughout my upcoming blogs – and photos – about Colombia is that the people are incredibly welcoming, curious, and friendly, especially on the off-the-beaten-path and that the roads and drivers are incredibly awful; an interesting juxtaposition regarding human behavior!
(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)
I will take the opportunity to introduce a potentially new term to you here: “overlanders.” These are the people who explore countries and continents – even the entire world – overland, meaning by camper; truck campers like ours, vans which are the most popular means, jeeps with a roof tent, and real expedition vehicles, as in old, built-out fire or army trucks. We have also seen Class C motorhomes; a bit inappropriate as they are long, wide, and low to the ground. The act is “overlanding”. 🙂 Just like in North America, our main resource to find (free) camping is iOverlander.
Cartagena – Mompox – Playa de Belen
Mompox (Bolivar Department)
After being stuck in hot and humid Cartagena for five weeks, waiting for Thirsty Bella to finally show up and blowing our budget on Airbnbs without having much fun, we wanted to leave the coast ASAP. We’d need a few days to straighten our home and life out, but most of that would have to wait until we found a cooler, more comfortable climate in the mountains. Once Bella was safely in our hands, we spent a total of five hours on getting ready for the road, filled with propane and fuel, and left the massive city.
Some overlanders meander north from Cartagena, others head south, few drive east (or southeast), and a handful rush through this country with Medellin as their next destination and Ecuador a week or two later. Why go through the hassle, money, effort, and patience for a meager six-month South American whirlwind?
Mark and I were granted three months in Colombia upon entering the country with an option to extend this allowance with the same amount of time. Since we already “lost” five weeks before we even started this adventure, we would apply (and eventually receive) this extension – for the two of us and our camper – in January/February.
Mid-December 2022, Mark, Maya, and I decided to head southeast to the heritage town of Mompox (also called Santa Cruz de Mompox or spelled Mompos), which took us two tough and hot days to reach, mostly over slow and potholed roads. Because Mompox is located in the Magdalena River valley, it was even hotter and muggier than Cartagena and we decided to spend our one night there in a cheap hotel ($10/night). Finding one that we could reach – and park at – with our big vehicle was a challenge.
Despite it being the dry season, Colombia has suffered heavy rainfalls this winter, so part of the cute waterfront was flooded. On top of that, most of downtown was a construction zone. Sometimes, it wasn’t even possible to access the sidewalks. These realities took away from the experience, but the climate didn’t allow us to stay long anyway. Only because we’d had our fill of that after those weeks in Cartagena.
The day we arrived in Mompox, the three of us walked into the historic center after 5pm, to go out to dinner. We managed to photograph a few of the cute houses, squares, and churches, but darkness (and mosquito time) arrived fast. On the walk home, we enjoyed the lit-up scenes for Christmas, which was around the corner.
The following day, we had another long drive on the agenda. Mark and Maya were not up for exploring (aka sweating) more, so I quickly dipped into the center myself, to check out a few more buildings, peek into the cemetery, and buy bread for lunch. By 9am, we were on the road again, east, to Playa de Belen.
Playa de Belen (Norte de Santander Department)
Playa de Belen, called La Playa by the locals, has nothing to do with a beach. It’s a small, cute village in the mountains, northeast of Ocaňa, a bigger city. Like Mompox, it also happens to be one of Colombia’s seventeen Pueblos Patrimonios (heritage towns), designated for their historical, cultural, and/or architectural significance. This was the place where we’d put the camper back together and relax for a while, during the week before Christmas.
How do we pick our destinations on an extensive trip like this multiple-year overland adventure? Most of you probably already know that Mark and I aren’t big planners, or even researchers, when it comes to our travels. We embrace the unknown and like to be pleasantly surprised when arriving. Planning leads to expectations, which often result in disappointment. Better to go with the flow, have a few pointers, and be impressed by the unexpected. ????
Every time Mark came/comes across a Facebook post (under my account), blog, video, or comment that mentions an interesting place, he adds a pin to Google Maps. Once we began this trip in Colombia, we have been aiming for these pins and creating a route trying to visit as many as possible. Only when a destination appears to be a substantial detour, we do a bit more research about the road conditions and if it’s worth the many hours of rattling, effort, fuel, and patience.
Regarding Playa de Belen, we “anticipated” a quiet place to rest up and give Maya a break from the fireworks that already started mid-November in Cartagena. What we found was a very cute and non-touristy village that happened to be the area’s epicenter of Christmas celebrations, exploding sounds, and crazy traditions… Aaaah, the irony of our life.
After a long drive, we parked along a quiet street for the night and were welcomed by the residents. We immediately had a good feeling about the place, enjoyed the peace, and poured ourselves a drink. Right around that time, fireworks exploded from the church a block away, pointed towards the field we were near. Maya immediately perked up, jumped on our bed, hid behind my pillow, and panted for hours. This nook would become her safe zone and this habit would be repeated multiple times a day for weeks to come. Sometimes, she would hide in our bathroom, another cozy spot.
Of course, we couldn’t stay camped at the entrance to the village, so the following day, we moved towards its northern edge and settled next to a soccer field. It was level and great for organizing and straightening out our rig and do a few projects. Except for the biting insects in the grass. It was a hard lesson learned as I itched for weeks and still bear the scars, months later. Of course, firecrackers, bottle rockets, and fireworks were heard multiple times a day – from the town square and private homes. This put a damper on things. We started to think it had been a bad idea to do this trip with an anxious dog like Maya.
After getting our camper up to snuff, three days later, we moved to the national park, Los Estoraques, which was close by and “hidden” behind some rocky outcrops. Surely, the noise would be better here? Our Canadian friends Sheri and Jeff, who we’d met in Cartagena, joined us here after their northern exploits. Mark and I had decided to skip the North coast of Colombia, as we’d sailed and stopped there in 2011 for a few weeks (read about our visit to Santa Marta here and to Tayrona NP here). And, because the climate is similar to Cartagena.
From this official, paid camping area (the equivalent of $4/night per couple), it was an easy ten-minute walk to town and the sandstone spires and formations of the park were visible and accessible from our camper. The national park charged a one-time fee of $2 per person.
Every morning at 6am, fireworks were launched from the church. This was repeated at noon and 6pm, so we tried to time our explorations of the surroundings and walks to town (with Maya) around that. The mornings worked best for hikes to viewpoints, like the cemetery and cross. We’d then combine that with a stop at the bakery to pick up savory bread for lunch.
The national park always offered an inspiring trail and backdrop. Mark and Maya often disappeared in there, away from the Christmas commotion. That being said, this campsite was the quietest place to be in Playa de Belen this time of the year.
Once, I took a minivan to Ocaňa to grocery shop and find homeopathic drops to calm Maya’s nerves. With our friends, we also went to dinner twice. On one of those occasions, Mark had to return home with Maya, as the explosions intensified around 8pm. Sheri, Jeff, and I stayed behind to check out what all the fuss on the main square was about. This is what we witnessed…
Never have I experienced something crazy like this, and I have seen impressive things in my nomadic life. Teenagers ran around the square with a box of fireworks on their backs. These bottle rockets shot off in any and all directions. The kids loved to aim the tubes at the square, where children and adults alike screamed, hid, and laughed as the flares and sparkles whizzed about. The audience jumped, ran, and ducked to avoid the sizzles. Seriously, while extremely dangerous, it was exhilarating and great fun!
The following evening, we left Maya at home and returned, so Mark could witness the craze. But this time the event was less chaotic, with a talkative DJ and boring marching band. Every once in a while, real fireworks were launched from the four corners of the square. It was quite the (family) affair.
After a week in Playa de Belen, and needing to escape from the culmination of the festivities, the two truck campers headed out towards quieter and more relaxing environs. Or so we thought… Stay tuned for our not-so-merry Christmas story.
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February 25, 2023 at 15:30
Poor Maya… I think I would have been hiding with her. I never quite understood to love our southern friends have for fireworks. I’m glad to hear that Columbia is now much safer. I remember when it was known for its high crime rate.
February 25, 2023 at 21:45
Hi Janis,
I remember your comments and observations in the past about the abundance of fireworks “south of the border” as well. It’s tough to travel these countries with dogs. Yet, we’ve never been in a place where they shoot of bottle rockets and firecrackers every day – multiple times a day – for over a month. Poor Maya, indeed. She’s not had an easy life here so far.
February 25, 2023 at 15:44
What a trip! I am not very adventurous and you are exactly the opposite!
February 25, 2023 at 21:47
Jacqui, you create your adventures on paper – and enjoy reading about them from the comfort of your own home. It sounds relaxing and comfortable. 🙂
February 25, 2023 at 15:53
Hi, Liesbet – I was so engaged in this post that I wanted to keep on reading. I now eagerly await your ‘not-so-merry Christmas story’.
Big hugs to Maya — those crazy noises would have been impossible for her to understand.
February 25, 2023 at 21:52
Hi Donna,
The worst about a month of hearing explosions is the longterm effect it had on Maya. And that’s what we feared. It took us years to put her at ease and not be so frightful anymore (when we adopted her, she was a nervous wreck). We feel most of that work and training was lost while – and after – she had to deal with the fireworks. Now, the smallest sound has her anxious and scared – a slamming car door, a backfiring motorcycle, raindrops on the roof. Not ideal.
I think you’ll be on the edge of your seat when you read the next story…
February 25, 2023 at 16:11
We spent a total of almost five and a half years overlanding in South America on 2 trips.
Colombia remains one of our favourite countries.
We wish you an amazing journey.
February 25, 2023 at 21:56
Hi Yasha,
Welcome to Roaming About and thank you for engaging in the conversation.
Wow, 5.5 years on this continent. That’s incredible! What rig did you have? So many adventures and experiences you must have “collected!” Do you have a blog or website as well?
Thanks for the wishes. I can understand why Colombia was one of your favorites. We’ve been enjoying our time here, but the roads are so awful that driving has become super exhausting. I think we will be ready for Ecuador after six months in Colombia. 🙂
February 25, 2023 at 17:20
Christmas looks beautiful there.
Mosquitoes! And all the other deadly bugs there. That’s why I will never visit South America.
February 25, 2023 at 21:57
Haha, Alex. I haven’t encountered any “deadly bugs” so far. I’m hoping our shots will help if we get bitten or stung by any of them. Colombians certainly like their Christmas decorations and lights. The nights in these towns are very atmospheric.
February 25, 2023 at 17:38
Wonderful architecture so similar to the Spanish ones and all those churches. What an adventure you three will be having. I would still be very cautious as there would be too many people with nothing to lose. We never once felt unsafe while travelling though there were places when we took extra precautions. Safe travels and enjoyed what you have captured, Liesbet.
February 25, 2023 at 22:01
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for following along. You are right about having to be cautious in certain areas. My next story will have you shaking your head at us…
The architecture in some of the small towns here has been very pleasing to the eye and the camera. One day, I’ll extensively travel in Spain to see what you mean. I hope you and The Squire are doing well.
February 25, 2023 at 22:27
Liesbet, you made me laugh at me shaking my head. As if, she says. Every place is different though there are similarities. You two are explorers and I admire you both. Look forward to the next instalment. Take care and yes thanks we are fine.
February 26, 2023 at 04:47
Wow, Liesbet, I’ve never seen people WEARING fireworks! We spent a New Year in Zermatt where people were chucking fireworks at each other. I thought that was bad enough. Poor Maya. I really empathise. Our poor little Rosie is terrified of fireworks but it sounds like it was impossible to avoid them.
I love your approach to trip planning. It’s very similar to ours and it’s a great way to turn up hidden gems that are off the beaten track.
I’m holding my breath for the next instalment…
February 26, 2023 at 21:51
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for following along. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: I think you and I have so much in common!! Every time I read an interview or hear a podcast with you, I can’t stop nodding my head.
Sorry to read about Rosie. Most dogs I know are unhappy with fireworks, but with Maya it’s so engrained and affects her so much that it’s honestly ruining our trip a bit. Because now she’s scared of everything. Some leaves or twigs or nuts are falling on our roof as I write this and she’s a mess. We barely sleep at night anymore. Just like on our boat. Then, it was the weather. Now, it’s Maya. 🙁
February 26, 2023 at 06:39
The buildings are pretty, the art seems playful, but the terrain–mighty rugged. Thanks for catching us up on your “overlanding” experiences, Liesbet.
February 26, 2023 at 21:52
Hi Marian,
Thanks for coming along for the ride. We’ve seen some amazing colonial town centers since we’ve been here, as you might have noticed on Facebook. I’m many months behind with the blog and I sure hope I can catch up before we leave this country.
February 26, 2023 at 11:17
Ha, not a lot different from celebrations in Miami’s Hialeah! Except there, they shoot guns into the air along with fireworks. Poor Maya. You are experiencing quite the cultural emersion. You have me on the edge of my seat for what comes next.
February 26, 2023 at 21:57
Yikes. Gunshots as well. Luckily, we have not suffered from those sounds here, as guns are illegal. I’m hoping to write and post the next installment in a week or so.
February 26, 2023 at 16:24
Crazy! I’m surprised no one is killed or injured. I think i”d be cowering with Maya.
February 26, 2023 at 22:02
Hi Anabel,
It was a very crazy scene. If you watched the video carefully, a spark actually hit the tree I was filming next to. I’m surprised as well that accidents didn’t happen!
February 26, 2023 at 18:52
Fireworks at 6:00 a.m.? Really? WHYYYYYY? Poor Maya. Fireworks are just the worst when you’re a doggo. I hope you all can find an escape soon and get some peace. Especially since, otherwise, it looks like a pretty fun and beautiful country!! Your shots of the national park are just awesome!
February 26, 2023 at 22:08
Hi Laura,
During the “Christmas” week we were there, the fireworks were related to the church. Maybe it announced the services? Likewise, each time we have been parked at a square (where churches are located) for the night, the bells rang at 4:30am the earliest or 6am the latest.
Unfortunately, despite the firework season being over (until Easter), we are all still suffering from Maya’s neurotic behavior. She is now scared of every pop, boom, and crackle, which there are many of here. Backfiring motorcycles. Slamming car doors. Raindrops on the roof. I’m not kidding.
At this very moment, it’s 10pm and the tree above us is dropping items on our roof. Twigs? Leaves? Nuts? Old raindrops? Maya is freaked out and panting on our bed – shaking the camper – and nobody can sleep. We are at a loss.
February 26, 2023 at 20:25
Poor Maya. It must be quite stressful for her. The national park looks beautiful. I hope you find more peaceful places. Look forward to your next installment.
February 26, 2023 at 22:08
Thanks, Natalie. I wish I had more time for blogging these months, but our life on the road is too busy and taxing.
February 28, 2023 at 15:35
That National Park is beautiful. I could go hang out somewhere like that for a while.
It’s interesting, the similarities between Mexico and Columbia. The Pueblos Patrimonios are like the Pueblos Magicos in Mexico. The little towns are so lovely. And the fireworks! They are dying down here but we still hear them sometimes. A friend was in town last week and got a video of a school celebration. Apparently one child wore bulls horns and ran around with fireworks shooting out from his head! Crazy!
I wonder why Columbia has become so much safer. I love to hear that for not only tourist, but the people who live there. I wish everyone felt safe where they live.
So what was up with that cemetery worker? Did you talk to him? Did you let him record the conversation?
March 5, 2023 at 12:25
Hi Duwan,
Camping at the national park was a joy and it wasn’t too expensive either, about $4 a night for both of us. The only issues were the fireworks from town, which we could still hear, and the nasty bugs in the grass. Everywhere there’s grass in Colombia, we have to use bug spray or long pants, socks, and shoes. They are like no-see-ums and their bites are terrible!
Fireworks are just a part of the Latin American culture. We are okay with it happening once in a while, but continuously for over a month was a bit too much, especially for Maya. Without a dog, our experiences in South America would have been slightly different and we would be able to enjoy some of these important celebrations with the locals.
Getting rid of the Medellin Cartel by the government and negotiating with the guerilla groups for truces, peace, and involvement in politics is what caused a drastic change for the better in this country, in the nineties and 2000s. Narco-trafficking is still a thing, but it is mostly hidden and in areas were no tourists venture.
The cemetery worker eventually caught up with me and asked if he could film me having a conversation with him, which I agreed to. We had an informal chat in Spanish and everybody was happy. 🙂 I just didn’t have a lot of time as I was rushing to see a few things, while Mark and Maya were waiting to leave – and have an early start – from hot and humid Mompox…
March 8, 2023 at 07:20
I’m so impressed with the Christmas decorations and the street art, Liesbet. So good to see the street art undamaged. But, boy, those crazy firework scenes. Can you imagine that happening in Belgium?
I feel so sorry for Maya and all those fireworks. My two dogs are exactly the same about fireworks. Thank goodness we only experience them twice a year on Nov 5th and New Year’s Eve.
Your photos are great to look at taking me into another world. I love looking at them. Some of the scenery is amazing, but thankfully I can’t feel the heat and humidly. Waking up to a blanket of snow this morning, the difference in weather is at opposite ends.
I hope those insect bites have eased up.
March 8, 2023 at 15:28
Hi Hugh!
Poor Toby and Austin. Yes, fireworks are the worst. What happens in Wales on November 5th? And, no, I can’t imagine all that ruckus in Belgium. I’d have the move… Wait a minute, I did move. 🙂
I’m glad you are enjoying the photos of Colombia. The heat as well as the bites have eased up. Enjoy the snow! My parents just sent a photo of their snow-covered surroundings as well.
March 9, 2023 at 07:29
November the 5th is Guy Fawkes night in the UK. It’s the one night of the year we now dread because of all the fireworks. We have to close out the noise and turn the TV up loud to try and drown out the sounds. But seeing them soo stressed breaks my heart, Liesbet.
March 14, 2023 at 13:34
For sure, Hugh. Our dogs are like our kids. When they are in pain or distressed, it is hugely upsetting!
March 11, 2023 at 16:28
Another adventure! Great post.
March 14, 2023 at 13:40
Thanks for reading. Now, my goal is to tell you about places you haven’t been yet! 🙂