Not yet
The draw of Yellowstone – so close now – was strong and yet, hesitation arose, because we knew it would be busy, tourist-wise and sightsee-wise, after an already active period in Grand Teton National Park. There is a spot of “no-man’s land” between the two parks. It’s called John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway and we found a beautiful free campsite there. The reported mosquitoes in the reviews of this place were absent, the surroundings peaceful, and our site even had a picnic table, vault toilet, fire ring and multiple trees to hang a clothesline for laundry. We stayed two nights.
Why Yellowstone?
Yellowstone National Park was the first national park in the US and is one of the most popular. If there are two US parks people in Belgium have heard about, it’s this one and the Grand Canyon. I don’t know any visitor who hasn’t raved about the place. Images of geysers, colorful pools, bison, and bears urged me to put this destination on my “list for the future” over a decade ago, when the park didn’t make it on my RV itinerary on the way to Alaska.
In front of one of the beautiful pools
First impressions
We expected crowds at the most popular attractions, but we didn’t count on bus loads full of Chinese visitors being dumped on the narrow boardwalks, screaming kids and queuing past natural wonders.
Hordes of tourists
Mid-August is still summer in my book, even in the mountains of Colorado. Yellowstone, at 7,400ft gave us generally cool, cloudy days and frosty nights. Mist obscured the landscape in the mornings, which – despite a mystical atmosphere – didn’t make early starts ideal.
Twin lakes in the morning
It’s a huge park with an 8-shaped paved road passing all the sites. The upper loop is 70 miles long, the lower one 112 miles and doing the entire “grand loop” (the outer lines of the 8) means driving 142 miles. The free campsites outside the park were too far away, so Mark and I decided to check into one of the “first come, first serve” campgrounds within the park, for two nights. Norris Campground was our choice, because of its central location.
Driving through Yellowstone’s landscape
We left our quiet campsite of the previous nights at dawn, drove an hour-and-a-half skipping all the stops, waited in the freezing line for two hours hoping to get a site assigned, and ended up with a fair spot in the woods. The price was alright ($20/night), but our site was cramped, unlevel, difficult to get in and out, and the picnic table and fire ring were broken; a level beneath our usual free campsites. Yes, we are pretty spoiled!
Finally here!
Three days of delightful sightseeing
Mark and I gave ourselves three chock-full days in Yellowstone National Park to do “the whole thing”, or better, the attractions that appealed to us, which were many. The park is a marvel on so many levels, from wildlife to volcanic activity to hiking trails to historic lodges, waterfalls and canyons. (To read the photo captions, hover your mouse over the images, tap them once, or click to make them larger.)
Day 1: Norris Geyser Basin and Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
From our campground, we could walk to Norris Geyser Basin, where we leisurely strolled around Porcelain Basin and Back Basin with its geysers, steaming fumaroles and hot mineral pools. A group of die-hard geyser watchers (there must be a better name for them) sat in chairs for days, waiting for the next major eruption of Steamboat Geyser.
On the walk back to our site for lunch, we saw our first bison in the park, spitting distance from Zesty. It was a treat to observe him from our perch under the trees, with nobody else around.
In the afternoon, we drove to Canyon Village, from where viewpoints and trails around the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone could be reached. Our first peek of this canyon was mind-blowing. The Yellowstone river has carved a deep path through the rocks and transforms into roaring falls. We had no idea of the forces that take place here and were solemnly impressed.
Day 2: Major stops on an 11-hour driving excursion
The western side of the lower loop in the park is packed with sights in close proximity, making this the most popular part of Yellowstone. Geyser basins with geysers, hot springs, and steam vents are separated by hiking trails, stretches of road, rivers and waterfalls.
Firehole Lake Drive, a short spur off the main road, surprised us with an eruption of one of the geysers.
Midway Geyser Basin offered a peek into the world’s largest hot spring, Grand Prismatic. Visitors reach all the sites via boardwalks. We had a stroll through the Black Sand Basin, but skipped Biscuit Basin. By noon, we were almost geyser basined out.
But, the biggest attraction of the park still had to come: Old Faithful. This predictable geyser is surrounded by what resembles a village and is part of the Upper Geyser Basin. One could spend the whole day here, timing some of the geysers, hiking and never getting bored. Old Faithful erupts about every 90 minutes. Mark and I stayed around long enough to see our first spout from a viewpoint up a hill, and our second one from the benches draped with hundreds of visitors.
It was after 4 pm and we’d only made it about halfway around the southern loop. We needed to get going, through West Thumb, along massive Yellowstone Lake, past Mud Volcano and back around to our campground.
The highlight of this last stretch was observing a big herd of bison along the side of the road.
So amazing to watch
Day 3: Wildlife and hot springs
Mark and I love wildlife watching. Our most pleasurable moments – on our sailboat Irie or when traveling with our camper van Zesty – are no doubt when animals are present. Since all we’d seen in Yellowstone were bison and marmots, our last morning was spent hiking a “wildlife” trail, recommended by a visitor center employee. We drove to the Yellowstone River picnic area in the Tower-Roosevelt region of the park and set out on a 4-mile hike to a bluff, above the river and into the meadows. Just when we gave up all hope, we stumbled across a herd of shy pronghorn.
In Mammoth Hot Springs, another congested area of Yellowstone NP, we drove the upper terraces in Zesty. The one-way road was narrow and windy, but the scenery was splendid.
Later on, we walked the lower terraces and had another nice surprise involving local residents…
After our short visit to this extensive, mind-blowing national park, we entered the state of Montana and read up about our next destination.
Note: I’m slowly catching up on blogs about our RVing lifestyle, which started the end of July. Our current location can be found in the right column of this website.
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September 26, 2018 at 23:33
What awesome adventures you have been having! Your photos are exceptional — I especially love the pronghorn.
I meant to ask when you were here – what plugin do you use for your photos on your blog?
September 30, 2018 at 14:37
Hi Donna. I’m not sure about any plug-ins I use for that. My theme (Hemingway) has a selection button “add media” when I create my posts. I resize my photos with the free app/program Fotor on my desktop first and upload them onto my blog. Then, I pick the photos out of the list and usually do “create gallery” within WordPress, to put my galleries together. I think we talked bout that last year and tried to find all this on your blog, but I forgot what the outcome was. Maybe your theme doesn’t support the photo gallery?
September 27, 2018 at 06:33
I’m glad you finally got to tour most of the park. We camped there when I was a kid and it would be fun to go back. We never saw any bears, but we saw plenty of the other animals plus some bighorn rams.
September 30, 2018 at 14:38
Those bighorns are pretty cool, right? Mark and I have been hoping to spot them since we visited Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado last year. No luck yet! Good for you, Alex!
September 27, 2018 at 06:39
I’ve always wanted to visit Yellowstone National Park and thanks to this spectacular post, I feel like I have. I really enjoyed reading about your visit, Liesbet. Your photographs are amazing, too! I’d love to see bison in the wild.
September 30, 2018 at 14:39
I think you should make that effort and get to Yellowstone, Jill. You never know how long these natural wonders will keep appearing. I know this volcanic activity is very different from the glaciers, but I don’t take anything for granted anymore. Especially when it comes to nature and wildlife.
September 27, 2018 at 08:14
Looks like you did Yellowstone right, hitting all the highlights for sure. We were there during high season as well, but still worth the hassle. It is such an incredible park! Would love to go back off-season and maybe even stay in the lodge. I did several posts of our visit. https://travelswithharvy.com/2014/08/19/beyond-geyers/
September 30, 2018 at 14:42
It is a spectacular park, Leslie. I think being there a week would do it more justice, but we were happy with our little trade-off. If there would have been free camping nearby, we would have stayed longer. Then again, it was a bit too cold for us. Although, I shouldn’t be talking like that, since it is much colder and wetter where we are now. 🙂
September 27, 2018 at 09:14
It looks like it was worth the hassle and the crowds Liesbet – what an amazing place! Wonderful photographs of the different geysers, I especially love your second one of Old Faithful :o) xxx
September 30, 2018 at 14:43
Thanks, Xenia. I often think Mark and I are spoiled, because of our past (sailboat) travels, where crowds were a rare thing. There’s a reason some places are busy and popular. 🙂
September 27, 2018 at 13:56
Fabulous! Brings back so many happy memories. We loved Yellowstone.
September 30, 2018 at 14:44
And now I understand why, Anabel. 🙂
September 27, 2018 at 18:18
Love the pictures. Sometime braving the crowds is worth it!
I want to go – but since we won’t be in Wyoming any time soon I wondered where else one might find geysers. Turns out – not too many other places. Only 5 countries have geysers. We will just have to hurry up and make lots of money and really retire – there is just way too much to see!
September 30, 2018 at 14:46
Excellent idea, Duwan. Or, you could head to Yellowstone right before next summer. The weather should be fine and you’ll beat some of the crowds. 🙂 Someone commented about geysers in Chili, and I wouldn’t be surprised there are some in New Sealand as well, in to Roturoa area. I was there before and remember the smell of rotten eggs and bubbling mud, but forgot about geysers.
September 28, 2018 at 05:33
Thanks, Liesbet, for sharing your delightful sightseeing and beautiful photos. I love the colours of the geyser basins, the geysers (similar to those seen in Chilean Atacama desert), and the wildlife.
September 30, 2018 at 14:49
Hi Natalie! Thanks for swinging by. I had no idea there are areas like these in Chili. I have to put that on the mental list, once we head that way!
September 28, 2018 at 09:54
Yellowstone is on my BL! Your journey, experiences and wonderful images bring it to life with the ups and downs of tourism and unexpected sights, Liesbet! It is amazing to think that the entire park sits on the giant underground caldera that makes up a portion of the West. One of these day, when we can go, I’ll pick your brain!
September 30, 2018 at 14:50
It is an incredible geological wonder, Terri. I hope you can add it to your route for your upcoming RV trip next year! Imagine the photo opportunities. 🙂
September 28, 2018 at 10:58
We have yet to make it to Yellowstone Park which seems like an utter shame. I had no idea it was so large so thanks for your in depth look at the park. Ugh to all of those tourists I have to say. I’m thinking perhaps spring or fall might be better, albeit colder.
September 30, 2018 at 14:52
And there is your next destination, Sue! Yes, I think it would be wiser to visit before Memorial Day and after Labor Day! I totally think you will see a difference and the weather shouldn’t be much cooler. Or, you could get lucky with massive portions of sunshine. 🙂
September 28, 2018 at 19:17
I absolutely love Yellowstone — thanks for sharing the beautiful photos!
September 30, 2018 at 14:52
You’re welcome, Janet. It seems like everyone who ever passed through Yellowstone has fond memories of it. Isn’t that amazing!
September 28, 2018 at 19:50
Definitely on my list! I’d love to go when the weather is still decent but the masses are gone (of course everyone wants to go then but at least being retired gives us some flexibility). We got pretty close to some bison in Wyoming a few years ago… they are BIG!
September 30, 2018 at 14:55
Big and impressive, yet, bison appear pretty docile. You have the flexibility to go to Yellowstone whenever, Janis, especially if it’s your main destination. That’s awesome and I will certainly recommend to go before Memorial Day or after Labor Day (I hope I don’t have those two mixed up). For us, heading north at a certain time of the year, it was either skip it or deal with the crowds and that was an easy choice. 🙂
September 29, 2018 at 08:26
Your pictures of Yellowstone brought back memories of when I first saw the movie 2012. What a stunning place to explore, Liesbet. Is that a hammock I see in the picture that includes the laundry? Frosts in August? I bet all that fresh air and chilly nights meant a good night’s sleep?
September 30, 2018 at 14:58
I’ll have to check out that movie, Hugh! Thanks for mentioning it. And yes, good eye, that’s indeed our hammock on the trees. It doesn’t come out often, but when I work on a sunny day, Mark gets to relax, this time in a hammock, now that he is temporarily “retired”. 🙂
The noise level seems to play a more important role than the weather when it comes to sleeping well at night. But, I do love to snuggle under our sleeping bag.
October 1, 2018 at 03:18
I can only image it being pitch black at night, but it must make star gazing a wonderful event given there should be very little light pollution in the park. Does the noise of the wildlife disturb your night’s sleep.
I’ve never tried a hammock. It must be a very relaxing way to take some rest, though.
October 1, 2018 at 11:46
On clear nights without a full moon, the skies are brilliant, Hugh. Especially since we have a big hatch (window) right above our heads when we lie in bed. Hammocks are nice for a little while, but I couldn’t sleep in them, because your legs are bent upwards in a funny way. Better to lie sideways if snoozing is in order.
No noise from wildlife interfering yet. Usually, the rest is disturbed by traffic or inconsiderate youngsters messing about the parking lot, when we end up sleeping in or near a city.
September 30, 2018 at 00:34
It is the most incredible landscape, isn’t it? I shall allow myself to be quietly jealous. 🙂 🙂 Or even noisily!
September 30, 2018 at 14:59
An extraordinary place, Jo, one that is pretty unique, it seems like. But, once you are under a blue sky and sunshine “forever”, our jealousy roles will be reversed. 🙂
September 30, 2018 at 09:32
This is one of our favorite national parks and the one we are most familiar with. You have captured so many of the sights that draw millions to the park annually. I love the bison, especially during the rut. They are fascinating to watch!
September 30, 2018 at 15:00
I’m glad you’ve had the chance to visit this park, LuAnn, and by the sounds of it, more than once. It’s a unique experience, creating long-lasting memories.
September 30, 2018 at 16:11
I am so envious since YS has been on my “dream ” list for a very long time. I have seen geysers and other geological wonders in Iceland few years ago and it was wonderful, all natural wonders are simply mesmerising. Great post and photos 😄
October 1, 2018 at 11:40
Guess what, Gilda? Iceland is on my list. 🙂 We just stopped over for one night on the way to Belgium last year, so we didn’t get to see any of natural wonders there yet. One day. Just like you will get to visit Yellowstone. 🙂
September 30, 2018 at 23:16
HI Liesbet
Your photos of Yellowstone are beautiful. I’ve never been, but hope to someday in the near future. I’ve know several people over the years that have gone, but have not seen such nice photos or been given so much information. Good to know about the crowds.
Thank you for the tour
October 1, 2018 at 11:42
Thanks for the compliments, Laura. I guess when you take a hundred photos every day of sightseeing, some will come out pretty well. 🙂 I hope you get to visit this spectacular park one of these springs or falls…
October 1, 2018 at 13:24
For many (all dumb) reasons, we keep postponing Yellowstone, and we need to stop doing that! We’ve been just thinking lately that next year will be the year for a big trip out west. We’ve been in all the states, but just have never taken the time to really see this park. Your notes on your visit make me even more excited about the idea, and the photos of the geological and wildlife wonders are great!
October 1, 2018 at 13:27
Thanks, Lexie. It is funny how sometimes the places that are the closest by (as in our own country, or in my case, neighboring countries to Belgium) are the places we just haven’t gotten to visit (extensively) yet. A big tour of the west sounds awesome! Hopefully, we are still around here next year so we can organize a little meet-up! 🙂
October 1, 2018 at 15:56
Totally agree – on all of these points!
October 1, 2018 at 18:56
Wowwwwwwww truly spectacular tour and photos. And those geysers, oh my. Memories to last a lifetime! 🙂
October 3, 2018 at 12:19
I’m glad you liked this virtual tour, Debby. A lot of variety in this park, for sure!
October 2, 2018 at 18:13
I visited Yellowstone long ago with a girlfriend and her parents, but I remember the sights and smells. When you mentioned a cramped camp site cramped, unlevel, I was reminded of spending many uncomfortable nights of our honeymoon in a camper with a “top.” Yes, we were poor!
October 3, 2018 at 12:22
You went on a honeymoon in a truck with a camper shell? That’s quite adventurous and a good start to see whether you both travel well together. 🙂 These days, we have blocks to level out a little bit, but, very recently, when visiting friends on their boat on Vancouver Island, the parking lot of the marina (where we slept) was so sloped that even blocks couldn’t get us level. Almost like living on a sailboat again. 🙂
October 15, 2018 at 15:54
Wonderful photos of Yellowstone! The one time I went there with my kids many years ago, there was a wildfire so access to some areas was closed, and we did not drive the full loops. Also, the smoke impacted the views. Still, I do have amazing memories of the park.
Jude
October 19, 2018 at 00:18
The park is very special! I heard that there was a big wildfire in Yellowstone last year as well and they had to close the park down. So unfortunate, all these fires. Especially for the people and animals who live in the area. And, for tourists having planned their vacation there for a long time. We are fortunate we can just change our plans when something prevents us from visiting a certain place.