In the middle of September, Mark, Maya, and I returned to Paraguay without a deadline. We would use this landlocked country as a base during the spring until it turned unbearably hot or until we found a buyer for our camper. Neither had happened when we decided to leave.
Yes, two days each week were miserably hot, but it was still manageable. No buyer had appeared, but we felt Chile would be a better location for any prospective buyer to start their journey on this continent. The other reason we changed countries has to do with a concept that’s been emerging over the last few months. I can’t elaborate on that (yet) since all our attempts to reach this goal have been failing so far. But, if you’ve read our previous expense report “between the lines,” you might have gotten a hint about this idea.
Leaving Paraguay at night
Once we decided to head back to Chile — on the opposite side of the continent — we felt an urge to do this as quickly as possible. Like I mentioned in a previous blog: first, we wanted to eat sushi one more time. Over dinner, skipping an alcoholic drink, we decided to cross the border into Argentina that very same evening. We knew of a good camp spot in Posadas on the other side and hoped for a quick and easy crossing that late in the day. It was the middle of October.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Border officials were friendly, passports were checked, our Paraguayan TIP (temporary import permit) for the truck was returned and an Argentinian one obtained, and we had to back out of a narrow lane, because no height limit was indicated for a low arch up ahead…
Then, just when we thought all was fine and nobody had asked about Maya, we were told to exit the car and our camper was scanned by a massive machine! It was loud and intimidating.
Afterwards, the official stepped out of the giant scanner with our paperwork with only one question: “Do you have a dog?” Our “yes” was answered with only a nod. There’s no hiding from this futuristic machine! Luckily, people had told us earlier that nobody checks dog paperwork at this particular post.
After one short night in Posadas, we hit the road in an attempt to spend as little time as possible in Argentina. There are a few reasons why we don’t like this country, but I won’t get into that now. Our first day was productive, despite the rain and the mix of road conditions with smooth pavement in the morning and uneven patches, dips, grooves, and bumps in the afternoon. We ended up at a familiar camp spot but had to navigate slippery mud to get there.
On day two, a Saturday, we were met with multiple slowdowns because of the weekend. First, there was a religious procession with hundreds of walkers on a pilgrimage. Then, there was a traffic jam due to an accident near the tunnel under the Paraná River. Slow progress followed through the big city of Santa Fe. A detour was needed to fill up with gas again, and in the afternoon, we managed to make better progress until sundown.
By Sunday, we had written our friends in Mendoza, telling them we’d be at their property by happy hour. We had to make this deadline since only the weekend would allow a quality visit, as they both work.
After another long day on the road, Richie and Abigail — and daughter Zoe — welcomed us with open arms and a culinary feast! It turned out to be a lovely, social evening.
Two more days in Mendoza followed because we had to deal with extra paperwork for Maya to cross into Chile. We usually opt for the three-day process by the agricultural department, Senasa, because that is by far the cheapest route, but the vet we hired to fill out Maya’s health permit, needed by Senasa (which is only open until 1pm on weekdays), messed up the form.
This meant we had to return to the vet twice and to Senasa three times before the ordeal was over, in addition to wasting time, sweaty energy, and money.
So when we left Mendoza to reach a favorite camp spot closer to the border, we weren’t in the greatest moods. Add to that the fact that a professional propane store couldn’t fill our tank up after wasting an hour and a discounted product we wanted was not on sale anymore by the time we reached the congested store, and you can imagine our crankiness.
As we reached the Andes Mountains and their pretty views, Mark passed a slow truck over a solid yellow line (common practice in South America) in a safe manner, but we were awaited by the police, resulting in a ridiculous fine, which I wrote about in my previous expense blog.
When we finally arrived in Uspallata, a town we love, we were drained and ready for bed! This was also the time we had interested buyers for our camper, but not until a year from now. Oh well. And, because this unlucky day wasn’t finished yet, our flaxseed grinder broke (irreplaceable here), the ice cream shop’s credit card machine wasn’t working (our last cash had been spent as we would leave the country the next day), we ran out of tinfoil to grill dinner, Mark hit his head on a sharp cabinet door, which made it bleed, and even hard-boiling our eggs in order to bring them into Chile failed. Time to escape Argentina!
We had an early start for the two-hour drive, to reach the border by opening time (8am).
The border crossing into Chile proceeded as expected. Like last time, it took an hour and a half, and we were treated as if we were the first overlanders to ever pass through this frontier — the busiest and most popular between the two countries. Everything was checked and approved: paperwork and interiors.
The last three-hour stretch of this drive was bouncy and curvy, but very pretty. From the moment we reached the capital, Santiago, we sprang into action: we bought the high-quality caulk we couldn’t find in Argentina; we resealed our back window, and we continued chats about that “little project” I mentioned before, but now in person. We had covered 1,400 miles (2,100km) – and the width of the South American continent – in one week!
The following day, we aimed for the Chilean coast to pursue what we hoped would lead to the next chapter of our lives. Unfortunately, we were met with disappointment. More about that later…
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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November 15, 2025 at 13:05
You left me wanting far more, Liesbet! Curious about the project you’re planning, what happened to make you disappointed, and where you hope to live once you sell Bella. I hope it all works well for you in the end.
November 21, 2025 at 19:16
Hi Annie,
We have had some crazy experiences regarding this “mystery project” which has been called off by now. And we have some crazy times ahead, trying to figure out what’s next for the three of us. Like you, I hope it will work out in the end. We just don’t know what that end looks like, haha.
November 15, 2025 at 13:37
Hey… a cliff hanger! Inquiring minds want to know. 🙂
November 21, 2025 at 19:17
Patience, my dear. 🙂 But let’s just say that we are facing yet another big transition.
November 15, 2025 at 14:15
Dog paperwork? For heaven’s sake!
And the massive machine scanning Bella. Argh! So sorry for Maya.
Now I’m in suspense until the next installment, Liesbet.
November 21, 2025 at 19:19
Hi Marian,
Nothing is easy here, so we are keen to switch continents by the end of the year. We’ve come down a bit of a chaotic road recently and the uncertainty won’t disappear for a while, but we will figure something out. If I sound too cryptic, it’s because I am, haha.
November 15, 2025 at 15:19
Poor Maya! She must have freaked out going through that machine all alone. You’ve left a few breadcrumbs but no clear path to your latest thoughts about your future. Looking forward to learning more.
November 21, 2025 at 19:21
Hi Janis,
Here’s the thing about our future: the plan we had conjured up failed. So, for good or for bad, we actually have no real plan for our future. We do have some thoughts, though. But first, we need to close this chapter, which is planned to happen in two weeks!
November 15, 2025 at 21:04
That’s a lot of driving in one week. I hope you find a buyer for your camper soon and have a comfortable place to camp until then.
November 21, 2025 at 19:23
Hi Natalie,
It looks like the first part of your wishes for us has come through. The second part is to be determined. We are camped in Santiago right now and summer has arrived with soaring temperatures. So, the comfort level is not so great. We hope for cooler temps next week.
November 16, 2025 at 10:06
That arch you had to put Thirsty Bella through–it reminded me of the arches they put nuclear submarines through after a deployment to demagnetize them. Interesting stuff at the border crossing!
November 21, 2025 at 19:24
Now that’s quite the comparison, Jacqui! I do admit that this arch machine looked quite futuristic and sophisticated for a country like Argentina. And, yes, I’d call most border crossings interesting in one way or another.
November 17, 2025 at 13:25
Another epic journey! My back is aching just thinking about driving that far. And another disappointment? Argh! You’re due for some good luck soon, aren’t you?
November 21, 2025 at 19:26
Hello again Diane,
I’d love some good luck! We might have gotten a little bit of that recently, but we are indeed all ready for a bit more comfort and normalcy. At least for a little while. And in the spring, we could use a bit more luck to be able to continue our travels in Europe.
November 18, 2025 at 22:21
Wow, and what a cliffhanger? And any bites on Thirsty? Maybe you could stay in Chile? 🥰
November 21, 2025 at 19:28
Hi Debby,
We can only stay in Chile for 90 days. I believe those days are up on January 17th, so by then, we need a plan. 🙂
And, yes, we’ve had a big bite for Thirsty. As a matter of fact, if all goes well, Mark, Maya, and I will be homeless on December 5th. An interesting gift for my 50th birthday. But now I’m getting ahead of myself…
November 23, 2025 at 10:30
Argentina seems like the place never to visit again, what with the bad luck it seems to bring you guys. And I have to ask how Maya got on while that huge scanner was scanning Thirty Bella.
It sounds to me as if this post was all about you guys going down hill, with some plateaus every now again (such as when you met and stayed with your friends and their daughter).
I saw your comment to Debby. And with the 5th December only two weeks away, you got me biting my nails wondering what’s going to happen next.
November 23, 2025 at 12:58
Haha, Hugh. Welcome to the thriller that is our life. I’m sorry to have you on the edge of your seat. I did reply to your previous comment about where we might be on Christmas and New Year’s Day. That is, if everything goes according to plan. But with us, you never know. Such is our unpredictable and soon-to-be homeless life.
Yeah, Argentina has become one of our least favorite countries down here, but that’s mostly because of personal experiences and preferences. The scenery in this country remains amazing.
And I actually have no idea how Maya experienced that machine scanning our car. It was loud but that kind of noise usually doesn’t scare her. Luckily, it didn’t take too long and she seemed to act normal when we returned to the car. The custom’s officer made us leave the car beforehand.
November 25, 2025 at 10:27
I only just saw that comment, so now I know where you guys will be on Christmas Day, Liesbet. I’m guessing there must be some bargains for flights on that particular day? I’ve always wanted to fly from New Zealand just after midnight on 1st January and land in L.A where it’s still New Year’s Eve. Two New Year’s celebrations in one day, but I’d probably fall asleep.
November 28, 2025 at 14:26
That must be fun and special to fly east over the dateline on New Year’s eve, Hugh. I remember reading something about that for the year 2000 and how some people wanted to experience that at different times and in different continents. Or be the first one to ring in the new millennium. Actually, the flights are not cheaper on Christmas Day. We had hoped so, but the seats before then have the same price. On the 26th, the rates go up substantially. So let’s hope we can stick to plan!
November 26, 2025 at 20:29
That scanner is wild! Do you know what they are scanning for? Besides, dogs, I guess?
Sounds like a really hard trip. It was nice you could break it up and visit with friends.
Looking forward to the rest of the story and, of course, hearing about your excursion to Easter Island.
November 28, 2025 at 14:28
Hi Duwan,
My guess is that they mainly scan for guns and drugs with that scanner going into Argentina. I doubt they’re scanning for dogs or produce, as we didn’t get into trouble or asked any questions by the agricultural department.
I’m looking forward to posting about Easter Island here, whenever we get a moment of quiet. 🙂