Andalusia, Part Three – Attractive Villages in Spain’s Granada Province

This is the last blog of three about our six weeks in Andalusia, Spain. The first one covers Ayamonte and Sevilla – and a side trip to Cadiz – while we stayed in El Rompido for two weeks (you can find it here) and the second one focuses on the pretty white villages in Málaga province. Read about them here.

Órgiva

The funky cottage we booked in Órgiva was the accommodation we had looked forward to the most. And while it was indeed super pretty and unique—with a few inconveniences—our fear of being cold in the mountains during the first half of March turned out to be justified. Whenever we were home, we needed either the gas heater or the smoky wood stove on.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The shower was in a separate, unheated building, which made washing up… less than pleasant. Have you ever taken a hot shower with low pressure and felt the water turn cold by the time it reaches your feet? (The opposite is true as well, when you take a cold shower and the water feels lukewarm by the time it gets down.) Add in patches of skin remaining dry from uneven water flow, exposed to chilly air, while you awkwardly turn in circles trying to get clean… That was our daily experience. Going outside to pee in the middle of the night was less uncomfortable.

This place would be amazing on sunny days, or in spring and autumn. One positive of visiting in winter was that the closed windows kept out the constant barking of dogs at night.

This video will give you a great feeling of our special cottage and garden.

Órgiva had been marked on our map as a potential place to live someday. It didn’t take long to cross it off the list. While there are a few cute alleys, the overall vibe felt a bit rough—more struggling hippies and noticeable homelessness than we expected.

On a better day, Mark, Maya, and I went for a long walk along the stream and into the hills. Despite having to take multiple steep detours due to the swollen river, we enjoyed peaceful moments and decent views.

Lanjarón

This neighboring village—also on our list—left a much better impression. It’s relatively small, clean, and less touristy than Órgiva, with beautiful views and great access to hikes into the river canyon.

There are plenty of trails in the surrounding mountains, one of which Mark and Maya explored while I took it easier. During our stroll through town, we came across castle ruins perched on a hill. Of course we had to climb up.

Overall, we didn’t find anything negative about Lanjarón as a potential place to live, but it also didn’t quite make it to the top of our list.

Salobreña

On another somewhat sunny day, we chose sightseeing over relaxing in our colorful garden and looked for something on the coast, hoping for higher temperatures. We ended up in Salobreña, a surprisingly charming white village perched on a hill, with sea views and narrow streets. And a foggy climate.

As usual, we found free parking on the edge of town and made our way up through the alleys to various viewpoints and a castle (which didn’t allow dogs).

After exploring the village, we headed down to the beach and a short promenade. Despite its charm, we couldn’t ignore the downsides: dog poop, some grimy corners, and not the friendliest atmosphere.

Soportújar

While searching for things to do in the area, we stumbled upon Soportújar—the so-called witch village—just ten minutes uphill from us.

It’s a bit of a tourist attraction, but since we visited on a weekday, it was quiet. We wandered through the small village, following a public map to find all the witch-themed statues and decorations. It was a fun and quirky outing.

Frigiliana

And then… Frigiliana. The town that truly drew us in—and brought us back.

On our first visit, we wandered its steep, narrow alleys, occasionally dodging cars squeezing through to supply shops and restaurants. As we climbed higher past the main church, we spotted ruins on a steep hill. At first, I wasn’t thrilled about the climb, but I’m glad we did it.

Unfortunately, Saharan dust had rolled in, erasing the views of the Mediterranean Sea just 8 km (5 miles) away.

On our way back down via a different route, we spotted a canyon below, and Mark immediately decided we had to return for a hike with Maya. The town felt clean, welcoming, and simply… nice. We slowed our pace just to soak it all in.

After tasting the local muscatel wine, we wrapped up our visit with a Polish tapas lunch and a quick stroll through another part of town. Frigiliana is undeniably touristy, but that also means it’s well-maintained and offers great food options.

On our second visit, Mark and Maya hiked through the canyon—discovering clear water and small waterfalls—while I enjoyed a leisurely photography walk (and more local wine).

We ended that morning with a long-awaited paella lunch, a belated birthday treat for Mark. This is one place where we could genuinely see ourselves living. Hopefully, we’ll return for a longer stay.

Nerja

We only briefly stopped in Nerja, since it was on the way back from Frigiliana. It definitely deserves more time.

In about an hour, we explored the shopping streets, visited the famous Balcony of Europe viewpoint, and walked along the lively coastline. A quick impression—but a positive one.

Granada

No post about Granada Province would be complete without mentioning the city of Granada itself. I’m happy to report that I truly enjoyed it. Mark prefers Seville.

After a one-hour drive—and the realization that our Portuguese-plated car could only be parked in an underground garage due to low-emission rules—we set off on a self-guided walking tour (thank you, GPSMyCity).

The city center offered a mix of churches, impressive buildings, and lively squares. The Moorish quarter felt cozier and just as enjoyable to explore, with several viewpoints overlooking the Alhambra.

We didn’t visit the Alhambra itself because of high entrance fees, no dogs are allowed, and you need to book far in advance, which is not our style. 

For lunch, we chose an outdoor Moroccan spot on a pedestrian street. I really appreciate cities that create car-free spaces—something that’s surprisingly rare, even in tiny villages where cars still squeeze through the narrowest streets.

In the afternoon, we wrapped up our visit with a walk through a beautiful park and past a couple of restored city gates.

After two weeks in our colorful (and chilly) cottage in Órgiva, and exploring Granada Province, we set off on a long drive back to Portugal. Stay tuned!

Next up: Village Life in Southern Portugal

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir: