After our crazy, stressful, and unexpected three-day “border run” to Bolivia, hoping to receive sixty extra days as a tourist in Peru (and eventually succeeding), Mark and I needed a quiet place to recover. Our next destination was Arequipa, but we were not in a rush.
First, we drove the three hours from the Kasani border to Puno, where we stocked up on groceries. Then, we continued for another two hours to a peaceful, remote lake, Laguna Sara Cocha, to rest and catch up on internet chores. Because the elevation was still quite high, at 13,800ft (4,200m), the nights were cold, so we couldn’t linger too long.
Laguna Sara Cocha
When our trio arrived at the lake, we were happy to find a pretty, free camping spot, surrounded by alpacas and llamas. Perfect!
Imagine our surprise, when at 6am the next morning, a Sunday, we woke up to the sound of hundreds of cars driving by. If we wouldn’t know any better, we’d think we were parked next to a gravel highway! We were baffled by the commotion and brainstormed reasons as to why traffic had picked up so much. Did the inhabitants of the little hamlet nearby all go to church – in their own cars – in Puno? Nope. The cars were driving in the opposite direction, towards no-man’s land. A massive party in the middle of nowhere?
When vehicles surrounded Thirsty Bella and people got comfortable on blankets and in chairs near us, I inquired. Apparently, the annual car rally around the lake took place that day and spectators drove in early to pick good “podium seats”! Unbelievable. Our peace and rest would have to wait until the following day.
We embraced this unusual event and reveled in the families having fun on a Sunday morning and afternoon. By the end of the day, only garbage remained.
Laguna de Salinas
Mark and I decided to take the slow and scenic dirt route to Arequipa, a journey of two days. The views were attractive and we rarely passed another vehicle on the remote stretches.
The gravel road was in decent condition, so we held a steady pace, listening to music through our Starlink satellite internet system and stopping sporadically for photos.
We saw plenty of llamas and alpacas along the way, as well as our first chinchillas.
After an extremely bad and super slow stretch of road surrounding the salt mining town of Salinas Huito, we settled in for the night by this giant salt lake. It was another scenic stop.
At 14,000ft (4,300m) in elevation, it would be the highest we ever camped. We expected a poor night of sleep due to breathing issues and a lot of condensation in the morning. We slept better than anticipated – Maya never suffers from altitude sickness or slow-downs! – but couldn’t believe our eyes when some of the condensation above our heads had actually turned into ice. Inside our home!
Arequipa
The second day of our dirt road adventure brought more scenic views, mostly of the Misti volcano.
We also made a quick stop at a small town, Chiguata, before reaching Arequipa.
It was Halloween (October 31st) and the next day would be a holiday. Something to take into account. We managed to stick to wide enough streets for our truck camper and parked for a couple of nights near a park and roundabout. Not ideal, but it was free, safe, and would do.
Camped in Arequipa for only two nights – it was quite noisy and busy
Arequipa is called the “White City’ due to its colonial architecture, built with white volcanic rock (sillar). The historic center is small, but worth a visit. Surrounded by four majestic volcanoes, the setting of this city is stunning.
During our two days here, we ventured into town a couple of times with Maya, managed to get our laundry done, and took care of a few work assignments. Then, it was time to explore Colca Canyon.
Colca Canyon
Often used in the same breath as Arequipa, this second-deepest canyon of the world is actually located pretty far away from the White City. Because we’d had great success following dirt roads towards our destinations in Southern Peru, we gave it another try. Big. Mistake. We didn’t believe the mixed reports in our go-to app iOverlander and quickly regretted our decision to follow this road less traveled. It consisted of washboard and pothole after pothole. Progress was slow as we rattled and jerked. Even the views of Volcano Misti from the other side couldn’t cheer us up.
After two hours of bouncing, shifting in our seats, and sighing, we reached pavement again for the last two hours towards our destination, Chivay. This part of the drive was smooth, easy, and stunning, the scenery opening up with incredible mountains, heaps of alpacas, llamas, and vicuñas, and a descent towards Colca Canyon.
Chivay
Our first few nights were spent next to Chivay’s famous hot springs, Termales La Calera. It was late and we were tired when we arrived, but we fully intended to soak in the hot pools the next day. That evening, however, we went through our expenses of October and were shocked by the high amount. We really needed to reduce our spending. This meant skipping the official hot springs…
Luckily, we knew of natural springs in the Rio Colca, which we were camped along. So, one day, we walked Maya east along the river for about an hour and discovered these pools (based on the trash around them). We had the termales all to ourselves – and they were free! We also found a “natural” bath near La Calera, after watching locals appear from there. Initially, it was fun to take a little soak in this tub, but over time, people didn’t take care of it and subsequent visits only grossed us out, especially after a serious rainfall.
From Chivay – the only town in the region with an ATM, fuel stations, and decent produce market – we moved on to Yanque.
Yanque
We managed to get somewhat level in the sloped parking lot of the Uyo Uyo ruins of Yanque, which were free to visit. We did just that later in the afternoon; a decent climb.
A waterfall was located higher up. Since I feared a migraine, exerting myself more at this elevation, Mark and Maya hiked to the falls without me. Apparently, it hadn’t been much further, so I could have easily managed. Instead, I explored the ruins a bit more and stumbled upon a local man and his dogs, setting fire to the dry brush. Was he a farmer? Was this legit? I’d never know since the attendant of the park had gone home.
After a peaceful night, the three of us hiked down towards the canyon and crossed it on a skinny footbridge. This was the shallow part of Colca Canyon, which was deeper than the river valley, where we had soaked in the natural hot springs.
We glanced at some old tombs in the cliffs and continued walking to the town with its interesting-looking cathedral. Tour groups pass through here much earlier, so the vendors were already cleaning up their wares at 9am.
Pinchollo Geyser
With our camper, we followed the potholed road along Colca Canyon, with viewpoints showing fertile lands and an increasingly deeper ravine. Our next destination was another 2,000ft higher: a cool geyser in the middle of nowhere. It was located above 14,000ft (4,300m), so breathing wasn’t the easiest.
Mark, Maya, and I had Pinchollo Geyser to ourselves. It was located at the end of a bouncy, single-lane dirt road. We made sure our dog stayed far away from the bubbling mud and boiling pools of water, while we watched in awe as steam spouted up high, next to an ice-cold river. This would have been a great area to camp in, but high and cold. We decided to move on for the night.
At this point, we had entered the fee area. For 70 soles per person (US$18), we could explore Colca Canyon and its surroundings and hike to the bottom and back. I couldn’t help but wonder why tourists would drive all the way up here first, to then hike steep down for hours and back up the next morning, while they could have walked in the river valley with much more ease and joy in Chivay. I guess the scenery was more dramatic here and the accomplishment grander.
Mirador Cruz del Condor
The night was spent at the condor lookout, but all we saw were cacti and cows. Spotting condors was done before noon. Like clockwork, a couple of these massive birds of prey showed up between 8 and 10am. And so did the crowds. When our patience wore thin and taking photos proved difficult, we left. We could always come back another day.
Mark, Maya, and I checked out a few viewpoints in Cabanaconde and strolled the quiet town. Later in the afternoon, we returned to the Mirador Cruz del Condor, the main condor viewpoint, to work and book more lodgings for when my cousin and her husband arrived in Cusco.
These were extremely busy weeks, during which we tried to combine driving, sightseeing, dog care, daily life commitments, paid work, and figuring out logistics for an upcoming family visit. We also were on a bit of a schedule, since friends were returning to Cusco, from the US, with Amazon packages for us.
Our camping spot for two nights at the condor viewpoint
It rained during that last afternoon at the mirador, which produced snow on the mountainous peaks around us. We woke up to wonderful, snow-topped scenery and very cooperative condors the following morning.
It was truly magical to not only see, but also hear, these majestic birds – closely related to vultures – swoop by through the canyon. Tons of them.
To get an early start for the long journey to Cusco, we decided to spend our last night at La Calera Hot Springs in Chivay again, after a day of driving and working. Then, we opted for major roads back to Peru’s most popular city.
The trip was a combination of slow, bumpy, muddy roads and pavement that sometimes disappeared. We spotted car wrecks in ravines and two accidents – all on the same day. It is a testament to how Peruvians drive…
After two days on the road, one night camped in a field, and more work commitments, we eventually reached Cusco again on November 10th. It was time to meet up with friends and family!
Next up: Our monthly expense report for December 2023.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir, a perfect holiday gift:
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January 8, 2024 at 20:07
I’d like to be a condor, I think.
January 9, 2024 at 14:50
That would be super cool, Jacqui. But, they are endangered…
January 9, 2024 at 07:52
I am awed by this post at every turn. First, I am not sure that some of the passages you traveled classify as roads, but wow, did they take you to some amazing sights. Obvisouly, the geyser is a favorite, and I loved all the alpaca sightings. The photo of Thirsty Bella coming through the cliffside tunnel was spectacular. I assume you know ahead of time of these potential hendrences?? Be careful out there.
January 9, 2024 at 14:57
Hi Suzanne,
Alpacas are so cute! Most of them – and the llamas – are farmed, so I actually don’t know if they exist in the wild. Vicuñas are almost always wild and the shyest of the bunch. Always cool to spot wildlife. It’s something we miss from the boat life.
Yeah, we did some crazy roads in Peru. And, honestly, you never know if you will make it as there are no signs about road closures or there is no information available. We have had to turn around in the past. The biggest worry are landslides during the rainy season, which we happened across a lot in Colombia.
Regarding the tunnels, as you might have noticed, there are no height restriction signs. Ever! On paved roads, we don’t worry too much as buses and big trucks go through and we get a good feel for our chances. But, on these dirt roads, it’s a bit of a gamble.
In this particular situation, we sent queries out and asked other overlanders who drove this road in what kind of vehicle they managed to get through. So, we had a good idea about being able to fit. Sometimes, it’s still tight! 🙂
January 9, 2024 at 07:54
What grand sights! I bet during the day, you forgot the elevation until it got really cold at night. (Although I’ve hiked at high elevation and you do lose your breath quickly.)
January 9, 2024 at 14:59
Hi Alex,
Yes. Good point. During the day, the temperature in the Andes is pleasant, even at high altitudes. But, once that sun dips behind the horizon/mountains, it gets really cold, really quickly.
Here in La Paz (at 12,000ft), I do forget about the elevation as the weather has been fabulous. Yet, when I stand under the campground shower and I need to hold my breath for a few seconds, a panic comes over me and I’m suddenly short of breath. So, once in a while, breathing is still hard – during the day and at night.
January 9, 2024 at 08:36
Laguna Sara Cocha is a beautiful spot, but wow, $13,800 elevation? I mean, the highest mountain in the lower 48 states is Mt. Whitney at 14,505 feet. Sometimes your luck is absolutely amazing. An annual car rally in the middle of nowhere on the morning you are there! The drive to Arequipa looks beautiful. And then the 14,000 elevation of Salinas Huito? Wow! I love the architecture of Arequipa. Some of the photos of Colca Canyon are breathtaking, as was your experience with the condors. Thanks! Jim
January 9, 2024 at 15:04
Hi Jim,
Thanks for reading along and marveling at our experiences and photos. This was a cool post to put together.
I have contemplated these high elevations a few times in relation to the mountains in the US. I remember being in Colorado once, boondocked at 10,000ft, and suffering enormously from altitude sickness. Now, 10,000ft is nothing and I only feel effects above 15,000ft.
Back in those Colorado days, I learned that you are supposed to sleep lower than where you were active during the day. Not an easy rule to follow when you are driving in the Andes Mountains. 🙂 But, we have learned our limits. For hiking, sleeping, and breathing.
I was recently telling some camping friends that Colca Canyon and Arequipa weren’t a highlight of Peru, but now that I looked at all the photos again and remembered our experiences, I have to admit that it was an interesting and exciting side trip. Especially the drives and the scenery.
January 19, 2024 at 22:02
That area was certainly a highlight for us, too. Interesting how sometimes you look back and realize how truly fabulous a place was even though that wasn’t clear at the moment.
January 20, 2024 at 09:45
Hi Annie,
That’s a good observation and it is also why opinions about highlights differ between travelers. So much has to do with the weather, the mood, the circumstances, and so on, to really appreciate a place, no matter how attractive, fascinating, or beautiful it is. When the mood isn’t right, the place is not going to feel right either.
January 9, 2024 at 08:39
A lot to take in here.
Ruggedly beautiful terrain. Happy travels! 😀
January 9, 2024 at 15:05
Hi Marian,
This certainly was a rough, pretty, and interesting region to explore. But, we are still happy we have left Peru! 🙂
January 9, 2024 at 11:46
I would say that was all good, with no unexpected hitches? I hope so, after your border travails. Beautiful photographs as usual.
January 9, 2024 at 15:07
Hi Anabel,
I have to think. I’m sure a few things went wrong on this ten-day side journey as well. But the memories right now are all positive and looking back at our time in Arequipa and Colca Canyon, I don’t find much to complain about… 🙂
January 9, 2024 at 14:10
Wow, just the thought of those altitudes make me gasp for breath! (The scenery is breath-taking, too.) 😉 And the condors were spectacular. It sounds as though you’ve finally found a more peaceful area – what a relief that must be!
January 9, 2024 at 15:12
Hi Diane,
As often, looking back on these adventures make me happy we experienced them. For some reason, working on this Colca Canyon post put things in perspective for me. Mark and I were both in such a bad place for most of our months in Peru that I’m actually surprised at the positive emotions I felt thinking back (and writing about) about this particular area.
A lot happened in Peru that made us overwhelmed and the local people never left a good impression on us, yet, the scenery and some of the experiences we went through were amazing and incredibly special.
Happy to be in Bolivia, though, where we are able to take a breather right now. 🙂
January 9, 2024 at 15:31
What great wildlife sightings! We saw California Condors in Arizona. They seemed real chill until enough tourists showed up and then they seemed to put on a show, soaring overhead. You mention many “peaceful nights!” That elevation is crazy – and ice inside the camper sounds super cold!
January 10, 2024 at 13:58
Hi Duwan,
Wow, that is so cool that you saw condors in the wild in Arizona. I’ve only seen them in captivity in the US (in the San Diego Safari Park). I wonder what the differences are between the Andean and the Californian condor…
Yes, we had a lot of peaceful nights in Peru, which was nice. Because there is so much nature and open spaces, we slept pretty well. This was not the case in Colombia – and to a lesser extent – Ecuador.
January 12, 2024 at 06:51
You guys finding perfect camping spots, and then hundreds of people and vehicles turning up. I’ve lost count of how many times it has happened to you, Liesbet. It reminds me of the time we found a massive, beautiful, deserted beach, picked a spot, only for a large family with smart speakers to come and sit right next to us when they could have chosen anywhere else on that empty beach!
I’m not 100% sure, but the dog in the photo of Chivay meat market looks like a corgi! I could not believe me eyes when I saw it.
I love all the wild llamas and alpacas, though. The wildlife looks amazing, as does all the wonderful scenery, only spoilt by all that discarded trash. Glad you found some free bathing spots in those hot springs. That must have warmed you up after discovering condensation turning into ice inside Thirsty Bella.
January 13, 2024 at 13:52
Hi Hugh,
I think there is a human tendency to “stick together” as in camping, parking, sitting, … close to others when arriving somewhere (new). I don’t really understand this as a westerner. But, even when we were sailing, we would anchor in a quiet corner of an empty bay, only to have a (usually French) sailor anchor on top of us! And when they are noisy, it’s even more annoying.
There are a lot of strays and loose dogs in Peru – and elsewhere in South America – that are mixed breeds. I think it is totally possible that the dog at the market in Chivay has corgi features! 🙂 What I find sad, though, is that richer families buy full-bred dogs here, while they are so many other dogs desperately needing a home. A bit like in western countries, I guess.
The scenery is Peru’s “saving grace,” in my opinion. It’s a shame that it is not better cared for and appreciated by the locals.
January 12, 2024 at 13:55
Ah, just reveling in your lovely photos of those gorgeous desert landscapes. Brings back memories of my own time in Peru. Hope this finds you safe and happy and healthy. Wishing you a most lovely New Year!
January 13, 2024 at 13:54
Thank you for the lovely wishes, Atreyee. I hope 2024 started with a positive bang for you as well. Wishing you a fabulous, adventurous, creative, healthy, and happy year!!