Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Friends (page 1 of 5)

Summer in Belgium – A Special Time

Where do I begin? This was the first time in 21 years that I returned to my home country for more than two weeks. It’s very different to “live” in Belgium instead of frantically seeing all my friends and relatives in a span of fourteen days every year or two. That method always felt like it was a dream; a whirlwind of activity that seemingly didn’t happen because it flew by so fast. I skipped last year.

Mark, Maya, and I made the decision to visit Belgium for two months straddling July, August, and September, to take an extensive break from our life on the road in South America and to enjoy quality time with my family and friends.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

My parents let us use their small vacation house nearby, so we had the privacy and comfort of a real home, while being in driving, biking, or walking distance of everything we needed and everyone we wanted to see, including them. I also had first dibs on their only car. Life was easy!

The first two weeks, we got settled in “the little house” as we came to call it and worked a lot, while sprinkling in visits to family members and going for daily walks with Maya in the natural areas around us.

Being able to just walk outside and follow trails around the lake (Donk) any time we wanted was a big plus of this location!

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A Break from the Road – In Massachusetts (USA) and Belgium

Many of you know that I, Liesbet, was born, raised, and educated in Belgium. But, did you know that it has been 21 years since I actually lived there (July 2003)?

That’s right, I have officially been a nomad for over two decades now. During that time of sailing, RVing, house and pet sitting, and overlanding (a fancy term for roughing it internationally in a vehicle), I tried to return to my home country once a year or every other year. During Covid, it took three years before I was able to see my family and friends again. Too long!

For me, it comes easy to leave everything behind, because I have an adventurous streak and do just fine on my own (and with my husband and furry companions). If I were to get homesick easily, miss my loved ones too much, or crave familiarity and routine, this roaming lifestyle would not be a good match! That is not to say I don’t enjoy summer visits “back home,” usually for two or three weeks at a time.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Mark, Maya, and I are currently in Belgium. For two entire months! This is beyond exciting and special. For once, there is no need to rush, have an overfull schedule, and feel more tired when I leave than when I arrived. It’s not a vacation – Mark and I still perform our jobs – but to be living in comfort with a healthy dose of routine, convenience, and luxury is something we don’t take for granted and enjoy immensely.

This visit to Belgium follows a hellishly busy three weeks in Massachusetts, USA, during which we combined tons of health visits and follow-ups (22 between Mark and me; two for Maya) with work, taking care of my mother-in-law, dealing with (extra) issues regarding her car, running errands, preparing for our trip to Belgium, buying gear for Thirsty Bella in Argentina, and squeezing in leisure time with friends.

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Mendoza Province, Argentina, Part Two – Atuel Canyon & San Rafael

Mark, Maya, and I would meet our Vermonster friends Heather and Jon in Tupungato, where we’d spent a few chilly nights previously, and travel together through Atuel Canyon and San Rafael for a week or two. If I complained about the cold in a previous blog post, well, winter seemed to have arrived early. That’s when living in a poorly insulated, solar-powered camper becomes less enjoyable.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Tupungato

After hugging our friends from Meat Around The World goodbye in Mendoza, our trio drove back south to Tupungato. We would have loved to meet Heather and Jon at Bodega Giaquinta to buy more wine, but the new, restricted opening times didn’t fit our schedule, so we returned to the municipal campground. Our friends would buy extra wine and meet us there.

We parked in the same spot, were accompanied by the same, wagging dogs, and enjoyed more walks among the fall colors. But, by now, it was way too cold and cloudy to sit outside or walk to the shower block. We used our own amenities, filled up with drinking water afterwards, and managed to plug into the electric system of our friends. This allowed our Lithium battery to finally charge to 100% – a huge help – which hadn’t happened in six months or so!

It was wonderful to see our friends again and spend more time together. On this first evening, Mark made ossobuco and squash risotto for the group. Delicious!

Manzano Historico

It was grey and it was cold, so we weren’t in a rush to explore the canyon yet. On the drive to Manzano Historico, we made a brief stop at Bodega Azul. We managed a little wine tasting and bought a couple of bottles of wine (Mark and I really like their Chardonnay), but the place was expensive and fully booked for lunch, so the atmosphere wasn’t ideal. We moved on early afternoon.

Little did we realize our next destination was even higher up… That dawned on us when I saw all the roofs in town were white and wondered why. Snow! To our horror, the picnic tables were covered with the white stuff when we pulled into the municipal campground. We needed the heater here during the day as well.

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Mendoza Province, Argentina, Part One – Mendoza City & Surroundings

After spending two weeks in Santiago, the capital of Chile, Mark, Maya, and I headed towards Argentina again.

Since we wanted an early start for the border procedure, we slept our last night at an extremely loud and busy fuel station, still in Chile, forgetting that we could have returned to a better spot in Argentina, before crossing the actual border.

Parked by a loud fuel station

You see, official formalities take place in one building for each country and these buildings are 16 miles (25 km) apart! When you leave Chile, you don’t have to stop at the Chilean border facilities and vice versa. So, you can drive into Argentina and camp, before checking into the country. As a matter of fact, the actual border is located in the Christ The Redeemer Tunnel, which cuts through the Andes.

The actual border between Chile and Argentina is in this tunnel

And, a provincial park that contains the tallest mountain in the Western and Southern Hemisphere, Aconcagua, is also located in Argentina before crossing the border. Confusing?

Aconcagua Provincial Park

Our “early start” actually didn’t help, because we still needed to drive an hour to the border, navigating the tight and plentiful switchbacks called Los Caracoles to reach the Los Libertadores pass.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

This area, including the border, frequently closes in the winter months due to heavy snowfall and rock slides. As the busiest and most popular commercial border crossing between Chile and Argentina, you can imagine the delays this might cause. Luckily, all was fine when we passed through in late April, but a week later, the pass closed for the first time this winter season.

On our drive, we also realized Aconcagua had to be seen and stopped at before the border formalities. I had hoped to do a hike here, but dogs weren’t allowed, you had to book ahead of time, it was freezing and super windy outside, and we had no idea how long the crossing would take. So, we briefly stopped for a free viewpoint and overlook of this majestic mountain.

Los Libertadores crossing into Argentina

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A Surprising Side Trip to Santiago, the Capital of Chile

As overlanders, Mark and I are not city people. Being camped in nature without any human presence or noises is our happy place. Yet, the three of us spent a full two weeks in Santiago de Chile, a capital city of 7 million! This was our all-time “stationary” boondocking record after a year and a half in South America. Jardin, Colombia, is now the runner-up at nine nights. What happened?

Well, this lifestyle is full of surprises. Bad ones and good ones. It had been a while since fate smiled down upon us, but Santiago – which is expensive and not even an interesting tourist destination – ticked some of our required boxes. With ease. We were quite happy there. Read on to learn why…

Group shot in the park
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)

Why back to Chile?

If you’ve been following our blog, you might have noticed that some hardships were encountered in Northern Argentina. Nothing disastrous, really, but after getting tired of similar issues in Peru and Bolivia, mostly regarding loose, aggressive dogs, dusty and dirty surroundings, and third-world living conditions, we had hoped for a reprieve of those in Argentina, especially after finding cleanliness and modernity in Northern Chile. When not finding that quite yet, we opted to return to Chile for a bit.

Another consideration was Maya’s international health certificate we obtained in Chile, the end of February. It was valid for sixty days, allowing free entries and exits for our dog between Argentina and Chile until the end of April. We figured we’d take advantage of that permit again, three weeks before it expired.

But the most important reason for our little sojourn back into Chile was truck maintenance. Imported parts are much cheaper there than in Argentina, as we realized when buying our first set of two new tires in Iquique a couple of months ago. Unfortunately, we didn’t purchase four at the time.

That being said, we chose Santiago to replace the other two tires, install a new battery, and do another oil change. Yeah, our expense report for April won’t be pretty again…

Our Providencia neighborhood in Santiago by night
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)

Our fantastic camping spot

The biggest surprise that greeted us in Santiago was the place we opted to wild camp at, based on reviews in iOverlander. It was easy to see why every overlander seemed to flock here!

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

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Biking down Death Road in Bolivia – The World’s Most Dangerous Road

Mark, Maya, and I had just started our camp host duties at Las Lomas in La Paz, Bolivia, at the end of December 2023 and our Canadian friends Sheri and Jeff were with us in their truck camper. Jeff and I had done a couple of crazy things in South America so far, like jump off a bridge in Baños, Ecuador, and order patitas from a toothless street vendor in La Paz. If you follow our Roaming About page on Facebook, you might remember that shocking food discovery. If not, I suggest you Google what patitas are. 🙂

So, when Jeff was looking for an adventurous buddy to bike down the World’s Most Dangerous Road, which is located near La Paz, the only thing that kept me from joining was the tour price of around US$70. Then I remembered I still had gift money from my parents. The game was on!

Group shot above a valley

The two of us did a bit of research into tour companies (these daytrips range from $60-$120), picked a middle-of-the-road agency with good reviews (Vertigo), and booked our mountain bike tour for December 29th. There was one problem, however: the company needed at least three participants to set out on Death Road. Luckily, we had a full campground by then and I succeeded in arranging a group of seven people to participate: six bicyclists and one sightseer.

The official name of Death Road is North Yungas Road. Its other famous nickname of The World’s Most Dangerous Road was appointed in 1995 after 200 to 300 people died yearly in accidents, usually from vehicles falling off the steep cliffs. The road is gravel and narrow, single-lane in most places, with barely a guardrail or space to pull over.

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One Month in La Paz, Bolivia – As Campground Hosts

The Opportunity

When we first arrived at Las Lomas Campground in La Paz, Bolivia, on Christmas Day, we couldn’t wait to leave. It had been a pain to get here, the nasty approach caused damage to the camper before we arrived, the place was busy and tight, and we had an engine problem.

Soon, however, the cozy environment grew on us. When we learned the owner, Marcos, was leaving on vacation for one month the next day and could use an overlander couple to watch his property and manage the campground, we made a quick decision. We committed to the job. Free camping with amenities in exchange for running this small (and at that moment quiet) business seemed fair – and our trio was more than ready for a break from the road!

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The Campground Tasks

The first day we were “on duty,” only our Canadian friends Jeff and Sheri were here. We could get used to this! Being responsible for a small property and a couple of buildings we kept tidy, and sitting outside in the sun, chatting, lying low…

Then, one after another camper showed up and soon, the place was filled to the brim with German and French visitors. Mark and I played Tetris to fit them all onto the property. Someone needed to spend their first night on the street, since there was no more room inside. And, when one vehicle wanted to leave, others had to move around and exit the gate to accommodate the departing campers. That was the scene for a good two weeks, over and after the holidays.

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From Cusco, Peru to La Paz, Bolivia – As Overlanders

Peru

Cusco

After my cousin and her husband left Cusco on December 6th, Mark and I finished some work assignments and camper projects (and I created a 2024 calendar for my family), and socialized with our Canadian friends Sheri and Jeff. Just as we were ready to leave town, we learned our American motorcycle friends Katherine and Brandon would arrive the following day!

(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)

We didn’t want to miss that, of course, and decided to camp on the edge of Cusco for a couple of nights to spend time with them – and work. We have met up with Katherine and Brandon in “every” country of South America so far: Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru. (And, most recently, Bolivia.) After seeing them several times in Baja, Mexico and Idaho and Oregon in the US.

Sheri and Jeff – who we were supposed to meet down the road – had finished their Sacred Valley explorations by then and joined us as well. We had fun times together, especially when Jeff revealed one of his T-shirts… I mentioned in a previous post that our friends had a few surprises for us. ????

Tinajani Canyon

Us, truck camper overlanders, moved on and drove for two long days. Our first stop – after filling up with propane at the other end of Cusco – was Tinajani Canyon, where we had camped and walked before.

It was quiet at night, but a tad chilly at 13,000ft (around 4,000m). We paid the cheese factory a visit, but they were out of Gouda. This is where the exhaustion and sickness caught up with me, leading to an extra night of staying put, for me to rest. The symptoms reminded me of the flu and I was “out” for five days.

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Overlanding from Lima to Cusco in Peru – Paracas, the Famous Nazca Lines, and Other Attractions

Paracas

Before heading inland again from the generally unattractive Peruvian coast, Mark, Maya, and I stopped in the beach town of Paracas on 9/11. The commercial center didn’t do much for us – it was touristy, expensive, and unfriendly – but when we arrived at a free parking lot late afternoon, we liked what we saw. This camping spot was big and relatively level, quiet, pretty, and litter free. Maybe we could stay a few days? The sun was present in a blue sky when we walked Maya, and later gloriously set over the peninsula that is Paracas National Park. Not bad…

(As always, click on or hover over the images in the galleries to read their captions.)

We watched in awe as local men pulled boats out of the water on a rusty trailer, pulled by an old, extremely noisy pickup truck, pulled by a newer truck. We deducted that they keep using the crappy, ancient truck to deal with the salty water and the fancier one higher up the beach for its power.

Truck pulling truck pulling boat – a daily occurrence next to us, outside the sand storm days

Mark and I had parked our camper next to a big, stationary power boat on a trailer that didn’t seem to have moved in years. It had bent axels and flat tires. We figured our spot was wise; out of the way and somewhat blocked by the trailer.

Imagine our surprise when, around sunset, a group of guys in pickup trucks arrived, inflated the tires of the trailer with a compressor powered by a generator, removed some wooden blocks, and, after a few attempts, managed to pull this mastodont with a truck pulling a truck, all the way to the street and out of sight, taking down an electrical wire along the way. The scene was insane!

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Mindo, Pululahua, and Ibarra in Ecuador – Hiking in the Jungle, Camping in a Crater, and Being Stationary for Three Weeks

After our time in Quito, Mark, Maya, and I had less than a week left, before Mark would fly out of Ecuador for seventeen days.

June stops in Northern Ecuador

We contemplated traveling to Amazonia/El Oriente, the jungle in the eastern part of the country, but soon realized we’d need more time for that massive detour and unique experience. So, we headed west, to Mindo.

Mindo

Mindo is a popular destination for travelers alike, especially backpackers and families. While the town is nothing special, activities in nature abound. From tubing to hiking; from cable cart riding to ziplining. We found a decent place to camp for free near the center of town, which allowed us to splurge at some of the western-style restaurants.

We also moved to a riverside spot for one night, to be able to sleep better, but since there was no cell signal, we couldn’t stay long.

Our main reason to come this way was a hike in the jungle among a plethora of waterfalls. Mindo is at a much lower elevation than we have been used to in Ecuador. At only 4,000ft (1,200m) above sea level, the climate turned hot and humid, yet still very rainy. It’s the perfect place to grow mold and we can’t quite see the attraction of living there. Is that why so many properties are for sale?

In tourist towns, everything is more expensive. The usual way to reach the park with the waterfalls is via two cable carts, in which Maya was allowed. The lower one was pricey; the second one was included in the waterfall trail walking fee of $5 a person. Since the entrance to the park is quite the hike up and our camper couldn’t fit over the bridge to get there, we paid for a single cab ride.

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