Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Hiking (page 6 of 12)

Canyons, Dead-ends, and Lessons Learned

The Plan

Things don’t always go as planned. Not that we plan often. But after our exhausting house sit in Albuquerque, the idea was to spend a couple of days at a quiet, free campground in El Malpais National Monument, drive to Canyon de Chelly to spend a day hiking and sightseeing, move to the Hopi Reservation in Navajo Nation for an affordable tour and a free night at the Cultural Center, and visit the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. That park opens on May 15th every year and—reputedly—has smaller crowds than the well-trotted South Rim. Our temporary end destination would be Kanab, Utah to volunteer at the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary for two weeks. (Click on or hover over the photos to read the captions.)

Panorama from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Albuquerque, NM

But… two important packages—to fix an engine problem in Zesty—refused to arrive as scheduled, before our departure from Albuquerque. Mark did all he could to reroute them to Kanab. Everything seemed in order; we left for some rest in El Malpais, an hour and a half west of the city. Luckily, we picked up a cell signal with AT&T there (we never did with our previous carrier T-Mobile). After a cold yet peaceful night, both packages were to be delivered at our pet sitting address, that Saturday. In awful weather, we returned to the house. The USPS parcel had arrived by 11am, but we waited for the UPS package until 4:30pm; it was the last stop on his route! We drove until 7:30pm to make a little bit of headway in the right direction and “urban camped” in Gallup, NM. Detour: three hours.

Lessons learned: Don’t believe everything is in order, until it actually is! And, don’t venture too far away if packages are “in transit”.

Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Canyon de Shay), AZ

One of the most rewarding experiences of having no expectations is arriving at a new destination and being awed. We rekindled with that feeling we discovered in Bryce Canyon and Arches National Parks last year, in Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Navajo Nation, Arizona. This park is free! Staring into the canyon the first time, we found vertical walls, branched off side canyons, a meandering river, and a lush valley.

Canyon de Chelly NM

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Completed House Sits – Albuquerque, NM (April 6th – May 10th, 2019)

After Mark and I finished our six-week house sit with Gunner and Beckwourth in Albuquerque last spring (you can read that post here), we never thought we’d be back. While spring isn’t great in New Mexico, circumstances did lure us in for another five weeks. As a repeat sit, the introduction to the tasks was brief and straightforward; the biggest difference a third adult Labrador, named Fitzpatrick. 

The Dogs

Three big dogs are a handful. We easily spent three hours a day taking care of their basic needs – peeing, pooping, feeding, walking. This doesn’t include brushing, bathing, clipping nails, cleaning ears, or cuddling.

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Where Utah and Arizona Meet

As Mark and I wrap up our five-week house sit in Albuquerque, New Mexico, it is more than time for me to wrap up my blog posts about our explorations in Zesty before that.

Driving through inspiring landscapes

What follows is a series of snapshots of fascinating areas, which didn’t make it in previous posts. Northern Arizona and Southern Utah—it was often not clear in which state we were hiking, camping, or sightseeing—have so much to offer in terms of natural beauty (and an animal sanctuary) that we are returning soon.

Horseshoe Bend
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Catching “The Wave” Means Winning the Lottery

“Will you try to go to The Wave when you’re there,” fellow travelers kept asking us as they learned about our plans to visit the Lake Powel area in Northern Arizona. Mark and I had never heard about it, so said, “Maybe.” We rarely plan and certainly not weeks ahead of time. We knew the surroundings of the lake were pretty from Ingrid’s blog and that was it.

When a “Good luck!” followed, we wondered why luck is involved to hike to a sandstone formation. Apparently, there is a lottery involved. “Over 100 people a day apply,” a new friend told us. Hard to believe and it was still too cold to head north, so we kept The Wave in the back of our mind. As more and more people either raved about this destination or wished they could have hiked there, it was time for a quick Google search.

The Wave
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Sedona Surprises

Sedona, Arizona is one of those places we had heard a lot of praise for but knew nothing about. Our Lonely Planet USA – a big book about a big country – mentions that Sedona is “nestled amid striking red sandstone formations,” is “the center of ‘vortexes’,” and “offers outstanding hiking.” Partial to hiking in beautiful scenery, we decided to make the detour. This also allowed us to check off a few things on our to-do list in Prescott, make a pit stop in the old mining town of Jerome, and climb up to Flagstaff in order to pick up our initial route. I’ve reported on these destinations here.

View from the Templeton Trail

(As always, click on the photos for enlarged versions or click/hover to read the captions.)

Camping

We’d read on iOverlander about a plethora of boondocking sites in Cococino National Forest, about eight miles NW of Sedona. We started on the bumpy dirt road from the west. Much to our surprise, it was extremely busy with campers. Five miles in, we finally scored the most incredible site and we discovered that there was a quicker way out. We spent three free nights here to explore this side of the city.

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Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in Arizona

No matter how you look at it, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is out of the way. Bordering Mexico, it’s a detour from the most southern highway (I-8 hitting I-10), which is why we never paid a visit before. Plus, there is no cell service in the park. Being so close to Mexico on the other hand, encouraged us to jump across for Mark’s birthday weekend early March.

But before that, we found a quiet, beautiful, and free campsite north of the park boundary – with cell service – and spent a few days exploring this desert park. Our annual National Park pass covered the $25 entrance fee.

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Arizona Adventure at a Glance

Disclaimer: This post contains a lot of photographs!

Mark and I left San Diego – and our last (short) house sit – on February 1st. It’s been quite the 9-week adventure! The first month, we focused on work and staying warm in Southern California. Both with mixed results. Early March, we dipped into Mexico for a few days, after biking and hiking in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument (Southern Arizona), which I hope to post a photo gallery of this Saturday.

Organ pipe and saguaro cacti

By then, our list of chores had grown out of proportion. We chose Phoenix as the city to take care of laundry, a van problem, shopping, collecting packages, and catching up on internet chores. Our attractive boondocking spot on BLM land north of Phoenix offered views and hiking trails. (To enlarge photos and read captions, click on the images – or hover over them.)

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California Desert Escape

What do you do when you feel like you’re overstaying your welcome at a friend’s house in San Diego (and you have a husband antsy to return to nature and could use a little break from memoir work yourself)? You pack up, jump in your camper van, and head into the California desert for a couple of days. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is huge. You opt for the Borrego Springs area as an initiation to this region since you don’t have much time.

Zesty on desert roads

You boondock in solitude and under a million stars.

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The Yeasty Beasty Experience

Today, I would like to introduce you to an incredible couple, who we are happy to call close friends. Some of our best friends are the ones we met when living on the road or on the water; there’s nothing like hanging out with kindred spirits, or visiting them again during our travels.

Mark and I met Tom in Green Turtle Cay in the Bahamas, in 2008. He was sailing his sturdy little Ellida and would meet up with his girlfriend further down the Caribbean island chain. In St. Martin, we caught up with him and Karmen, who is a chiropractor and aspiring photographer. Her traits came in handy, as Mark was suffering from a bad back one year and he and I had a romantic plan the next year.  Continue reading

Completed House Sits – Ojai, CA (November 18th to December 7th, 2018)

Every house sit Mark and I complete constitutes a chapter in our book of life. They are all different and compelling, whether it is because of the location, the house, the owners, the pets, or all of the above.

I just loved this crisp mountain view every day

Mark and I committed to our most recent sit in Ojai while we were traveling for a few months in our camper and didn’t plan on house sitting too much anymore. The home owner had contacted us in February, asking whether we’d be interested in a three-week sit in the fall. I had been vague – sure, we’d be interested (we had heard nice things about Ojai and being in Southern California that time of year is not a bad choice), but it was way too early to commit. She checked in with us every couple of months and in August, we bit the bullet and decided to be there, after confirming our 11ft high camper could park in the driveway.

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