Nature – Page 6 – Roaming About

Category: Nature (page 6 of 19)

Back in Baja (Kind of) – A Week of Dunes, Drives & Decisions

It might not have been obvious in my previous blog posts, but Mark and I were antsy about returning to the Baja California peninsula of Mexico this winter, because we had a great time here last spring, meeting like-minded travelers and taking a welcome break after publishing a book. On this subsequent visit, we hoped to hang out with friends, explore this 1,000-mile narrow stretch of land a bit more, and relax on its many beaches. Our initial goal was to arrive in early December and stay until sometime in April.

Shell Beach vista

After multiple delays – trying to find jobs in Arizona, going to the dentist in Los Algodones, more camper projects in the desert, and a few important phone calls while still in the US with good cell service, we finally crossed the border into Baja on January 12th, six weeks later than planned. It was a good day! We had arrived back in Mexico and we could feel the stress and anxiety leave our bodies. Yet, we realized it would take a while to fully adjust to the life we intend to have: one of plenty adventures with a good balance between work and leisure, and plenty of walks for Maya.

On the access road to Shell Beach, 4WD is recommended

Parked at the end of the dirt road. We didn’t feel comfortable driving and camping on the soft-sand beach

Now that we have a 4WD vehicle (as opposed to our campervan Zesty, last year), more remote campsites are accessible and we feel that’s what a lot of Baja California is about: reaching peace and solitude surrounded by nature and the sea. One thing we noticed from the start, though, is that it’s much busier than last year. We were spoiled in 2021, when rarely a soul crossed into Mexico, and we often camped by ourselves.

A big shell!

Walking Maya on the pretty beach

Half an hour south of San Felipe is “Shell Beach” along the Sea of Cortez. This was our first stop and an awesome one. Miles and miles of empty beach, low dunes, gorgeous sunrises, clear night skies, and oh-so-quiet.

Sunrise on Shell Beach (Photo courtesy of Mark Kilty)

The empty beach runs for miles

The mountainous backdrop of our camping spot

Small dunes along the beach

A huge flock of pelicans on a sand spit at low tide

Huge sand spit

Discoveries in New Mexico – Gila National Forest

December 16, 2021 / Liesbet / 70 Comments

We had heard good things about it – hot springs, hiking, off the beaten track. We had seen the green blot on maps – including the words “cliff dwellings” in small print. We’d driven south of it multiple times, crossing the country, not having time for a detour, thinking it would take ages on dirt roads to get there.

Gila National Forest

Until this fall. When we left Massachusetts in our new set-up, Mark wanted to stop in the Badlands of South Dakota and I was finally going to find Gila National Forest’s treasures in New Mexico. We made it happen in early November of this year. Unfortunately, we only had three nights to spare in this expansive area. Fortunately, we have the means to return.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Unexpected and fabulous viewpoint when we climb the roads of Gila National Forest

On top of the world

In true Liesbet and Mark fashion, we had no idea what to expect. There were the recommendations of friends and the attraction of the map, but that was the extent of our knowledge about Gila. We didn’t research and we didn’t look at photos ahead of time. This way, we are open-minded and malleable. It allows for genuine surprises and discovering new-to-us treasures. It avoids expectations and disappointments.

Welcome to New Mexico!

Cebolla Mesa

When we entered New Mexico, right across the border from Colorado, we stopped at a remote but free campground on Cebolla Mesa for a couple of nights. To our shock, we found ourselves on the edge of a deep canyon, carved out by the Rio Grande. Mark and Maya braved the steep 2.6 mile R/T descend and ascent (770ft elevation gain). I turned back after a few switchbacks, fearing a massive headache from the exertion.

Maya looks out into the Rio Grande valley

Well above the Rio Grande

Campground view

Not a bad spot – peaceful and pretty

Mark and Maya enjoying the sunshine along the edge of the canyon

Tiny campfire, just for the atmosphere

Mark and Maya hiked all the way down there (and back up).

Mark and Maya setting off to the bottom of the canyon

Snowy Encounter in Mystic, SD – An Artist’s Sanctuary in the Black Hills

November 24, 2021 / Liesbet / 31 Comments

When Mark and I met Jon and Gail on a remote, gorgeous beach in Baja California, Mexico, this past spring, we hit it off immediately. Jon Crane is a renowned, accomplished, and outstanding painter and his lovely wife, Gail, had just published her book Mystic Travelers around the same time I released Plunge. The four of us had a lot to share – stories, food, drinks, and art.

Jon and Gail (who travel with their cat, Cosme) in front of their truck camper

Gail and Jon sign our copy of her book.

“Mystic Travelers” by Gail Crane

The couple spends half a year on the Baja peninsula in their truck camper and the other six months in the Black Hills of South Dakota, where they built an incredible home based on Jon’s vision and skills. Ever since I read about their place in Mystic and saw a photo of their unique house in Gail’s book, I’ve wanted to visit. So, when we found ourselves in the Badlands, two hours east of the Black Hills, we got in touch with our friends. Would they still be home mid-October or had they already left for Baja?

Exploring Badlands National Park with TT

Mark and Liesbet in the Badlands

We were in luck. Jon and Gail were still around for a couple of weeks and more than happy to see and host us. But there was one problem… They live in the middle of nowhere, deep into the black hills, and the first snowfall of the season had arrived when it rained in our neck of the woods. No worries. We’d amuse ourselves for a couple more days and assumed the snow would be melted when we ventured into the hills.

We stopped in Rapid City to do some shopping and say hi to a bunch of presidents.

(As always, hover over or click on images in galleries to read the captions.)

Mark looks for the president route on his phone.

President Barack Obama and one of his daughters

President George W. Bush

President Thomas Jefferson

President Franklin Roosevelt

President Harry Truman

President Martin Van Buren

Then, we left civilization and were greeted by this. Yikes.

Entering the Black Hills

What just happened?

Mark and I are warm-blooded humans. We don’t do well in cold weather and we certainly didn’t plan on seeing any of that white stuff when driving across the country, except, maybe, if and when crossing the mountain passes in Colorado!

The road condition deteriorated the further we drove.

Five Days in the Badlands of South Dakota – A Photo Story of Spectacular Scenery & Wandering Wildlife (& a Daring Dog)

October 27, 2021 / Liesbet / 59 Comments

Day One

We approach Badlands National Park mid-afternoon, after crossing the width of South Dakota. The burning question: do we buy the $80 annual National Park pass (what we usually have) or a 7-day ticket for $30? We’ve been doing without a pass for over a year. We are leaving the country soon. It’s nice to be covered “everywhere” and sometimes get discounts on camping, though. But, we usually camp for free anyway. If we have to spend another summer in the US (instead of heading to South America in 2022), we will need and use the pass… “We either lose $50 or we lose $30,” Mark says, “Your choice.” Life has become very expensive on the road. Eighty dollars is a lot of money. We buy the week-long entrance ticket.

That’s when we realize we didn’t even check the pet rules… A quick search online reveals that dogs are not allowed on ANY trails. As a matter of fact, they aren’t even allowed at the look-outs. Pets are only welcome to walk around in campgrounds and parking lots. Great! Did we just waste $30?

I go for a short walk. Mark is annoyed and takes Maya around the parking lot. We drive through a small part of the park to our first free campsite for the night, in Buffalo Gaps National Grassland. Much more dog-friendly!

We crest a little hill and pick a flat spot among smaller badland humps. Because of the underground (sticky clay and sand), you don’t want to park here during rain. Many cars and campers have gotten stuck here, doing just that. But, there is no rain in the forecast, so we should be fine!

We take Maya for a walk and then this happens…

New York Surprises – Waterfall Extravaganza!

October 4, 2021 / Liesbet / 42 Comments

“Where are you going first?”

This is not a weird question at all, when you talk to people hitting the road indefinitely. And the poser of said question might get annoyed with the ever-present “We don’t know yet” answer coming from our mouths.

But, first things first; Mark and I had to take care of a few specifics before an actual destination could be determined. Once our departure from Newburyport became imminent – the truck camper was taking shape, the bikes didn’t fall of the new ladder rack, help was in place for my in-laws, ties with friends and family were rekindled, and personal projects reached a stopping point – we could finally look at a map.

Two days before we coasted out of the driveway with our dog, Maya, and our belongings, Mark and I decided to head towards Chicago, Illinois, after visiting a couple of friends in Massachusetts and New York. I contacted three sets of friends in the Windy City, aka Chi-Town, to gauge their availability and location for a meet-up. Then, on September 17^th, 2021, the three of us left Newburyport for the last time with a new-to-us vehicle and – somewhat of – a plan!

A quick, one-night stop at good friends in Uxbridge, MA, was followed by a Saturday night visit to a work friend of Mark’s in New York, who cooked his staple meat-loaden pasta sauce for us, following an amazing family recipe.

It was on Sunday, when our trip west was to start in earnest, that we realized we weren’t in a rush anymore. Why hurry to Chicago? We’d returned to our own home, our own routine, our own lives, our own priorities. We were our own boss again with few responsibilities! And, the weather was unseasonably pleasant with temperatures in the mid-70s Fahrenheit (mid-20s Celsius).

“Let’s explore New York a bit,” I exclaimed. A state so close by, yet so far away, as I’d never actually ventured into upstate New York for any length of time, other than quick visits – to our friend Sean and Mark’s college town Troy once, when on one of our many road trips across the USA.

(As always, click on or hover over photos to read captions.)

Schenectady

Mark grew up in Schenectady. I’m pretty good at spelling, but when he challenged me with this one years ago, I miserably failed. To make matters worse, Mark also lived in Niskayuna, a town to its east. I still have to look up how to write that one. But, I’m happy to say that I finally visited both cities, thanks to our friend Sean, who offered us a quick tour, that Sunday of our “real departure.”

Circle in the Stockade

The house to the right belonged to Mark’s parents many years ago.

Typical street in the Stockade

Native American statue

While both men convinced me there is “nothing to see” in Schenectady, I enjoyed a stroll through the Stockade, an 82-acre historic district located on the banks of the Mohawk River. It is the oldest neighborhood in the city and has been continuously inhabited for more than 300 years. The National Park Service describes it as “the highest concentration of historic period homes in the country.” It is here that Mark’s parents used to own a house, while their son attended college and lived on campus nearby.

Walking along the Mohawk River with Sean, Mark, and Maya

Old house reminiscent of Holland

Historic neighborhood in the Stockade

Spectacular Sunsets on the Water – A Photo Blog

June 23, 2021 / Liesbet / 84 Comments

The following photos are my favorite sunset shots, taken on our eight-year sailing journey (2007-2015) in the Caribbean and South Pacific, aboard our 35ft catamaran Irie. These photos are shown in their “original” form. No editing has occurred, except for adding my watermark. The sun can really be this bright and colorful. 🙂

My travels and experiences (and then some) on Irie have been memorialized in my recently published travel memoir Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary. You can find more information about this compelling, “refreshingly honest,” well-received book here.

Caribbean Sunsets

Sunset in Puerto Rico

Caribbean sunset at anchor

Sunset in the Grenadines

Monthly Expenses – May 2021

June 9, 2021 / Liesbet / 47 Comments

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

The entire month of May, Mark, Maya, and I lived in our “room above the garage” in Newburyport, Massachusetts. We helped out my in-laws, worked, and researched pick-up trucks. It’s been a huge battle finding the right set-up for our next adventure in this post-pandemic, elusive, and inflated Super Duty truck market. One day, I hope to share our experiences about that in a blog post. So far, unfortunately, there is no end in sight.

Spoiled dog!

Maya loves squeezing in tight spaces – a camper would be the perfect home for her!

May 2021 was another expensive month for us, mainly because we bought two plane tickets to Belgium, for the end of June. That being said, we have no conclusion yet if Mark gets to go, based on European travel restrictions being lifted. What’s a bit more stress… I should be okay with my Belgian passport. Fingers crossed! As prices for flights keep rising, we didn’t want to risk waiting too long to book the tickets. They are exchangeable for vouchers in case we/he can’t go, something we confirmed before paying money. If all goes well, our friends Duwan and Greg will watch Maya for two weeks.

Beach walk on Plum Island

Maya in the dunes

A man and his dog

Our grocery expenses are still high. We blame it on New England being more expensive than the American Southwest, let alone Mexico. We are careful, but each time we pass a Trader Joe’s (which isn’t often), we have to buy a few of our favorite specialties. And, when we visit friends, we can’t show up empty-handed of course. Or maybe the number remains high because we are eating too much?

Friends in our Uxbridge guest room

Mark and his buddies Ryan and Chris

Holly and Liesbet

Take-out dinner with friends

Playing Jenga with friends

We are fortunate to have the use of Mark’s parents’ car to run errands and look at (rusty) pick-up trucks and truck campers in the area. “The area” stretches throughout Massachusetts, to Connecticut, New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York. Most of our fuel goes to these widespread, time consuming pursuits. We are drinking alcohol again after a multiple-month hiatus. We also shipped a spare part we kept for Zesty to a friend in Arizona, now that we sold our camper van, and tentatively paid for a camper insurance policy (more about that later, if it sticks).

Visiting family in Connecticut on a detour from a truck “inspection”

The only other “high” expense was for a vet visit, in nearby Salisbury. Mark and I took Maya to another vet, in Newburyport, a couple of years ago and weren’t too happy with the inflated prices. So, we tried a different one for a check-up and small procedure, figuring it couldn’t be any worse. The vet and staff were friendly and professional; the doctor said everything was fine. Maya was healthy, the liquid that needed to be expressed was surprisingly clear, and there were no infections.

Maya’s favorite spot in the house these last months: under my desk

Maya getting comfy at my feet

And, where do my feet go?

As we were ready to leave his office and pay our bill, he asked his assistant to grab a container of probiotics and another with antibiotics. Mark and I were confused. “Does she have an infection, or not?” my husband asked. “Yes,” the vet answered. What do you do when a doctor recommends medication, but you don’t quite believe your pet needs it?

We moved to the check-in counter to pay, as the nurse approached with the container of probiotics. “How much does that cost?” Mark inquired. “85 dollars.” What? We declined. We’d feed her a couple of spoons of yogurt each day, if needed, or look for probiotics online. Could we decline the antibiotics as well? This was a toughie. We let that one go ($40 for a generic brand) and for the next two weeks, we fed our dog drugs we didn’t think she needed.

Again, we were disgusted by how vet clinics upsell their products and try to make money. It’s all about money, especially in this part of the world, we once again concluded. Capitalism. It’s been confronting us every step of the way this year. We’ll look for yet another vet next time.

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Monthly Expenses – April 2021 (& Another Cross-Country Road Trip)

May 19, 2021 / Liesbet / 64 Comments

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Mark and I sold Zesty last month! If you missed that post, read it here.

Apologies for the late expense report, but I wanted to update everyone about the sale of our camper van first, as it impacts everything we do. We are homeless and carless since April 3rd and rented a vehicle to drive back to Massachusetts, a trip that cost us about $1,000.

Once we removed the bike bag, our ride was smoother.

On hindsight, we should have driven Zesty. It would have saved us a bunch of money and interest was strong enough for a potential buyer to pick the van up on the opposite coast. Also, knowing what we know now – that finding a suitable truck is close to impossible unless we are okay spending $10K more than pre-inflation rates two months ago – we might have held on to our home on wheels a bit longer. Oh well.

April was a decent month, taking the pricey road trip – car rental, four dog-friendly Motel 6 nights, and gasoline to drive over 3,000 miles – into account. We mostly prepared our own meals, even though this was tricky with the early starts, windy conditions, and not having our own kitchen anymore. It made our days on the road even longer.

Early starts

The grocery category is quite high, because we pretty much ate everything in the camper before we sold it and had to re-provision from scratch once we arrived in Newburyport, MA. We contributed some money to the water fund of our friends in Arizona and ordered dog food and vitamins ahead of our arrival.

The food prep and storage zone in our current room

The car expense was off-set because we received a refund for part of our cancelled camper insurance. Also, $288 for a one-way, one-week rental with unlimited miles is cheap. I commend Mark once more for his research abilities and always finding the best prices for anything we need. We purposefully left gear in Zesty for the new owners, so the camper was turnkey. This means we have to buy those items again, now (like a new router) and later (solar panels, outdoor mat, leveling blocks, …).

Driving by Oklahoma City – I do wish to visit, one day, when we have time.

Scene in the Midwest

I mentioned last week that I would touch on our five-day cross-country drive in this expense report. There really is not much to share: it was a hellish 3,200-mile ride of 10-12 hours in the car, each day. Stops were made to let Maya pee, eat lunch, get fuel, adjust the flimsy bike rack, shop for food, fetch or prepare dinner, work, and sleep.

Me, catching up on work at night

Plus, we made a detour to Arkansas to check out two truck campers. I didn’t have enough space in the passenger seat to work on my computer, so I mostly vegged, listened to music, and consulted my iPad.

Northstar Liberty truck camper

Northstar Liberty SS truck camper

Here are a few notes I took:

We should have stuck with the full-size car. What were we thinking to downgrade and pay extra when booking our transport method for the week?
All our belongings fit! Barely… But, we didn’t have to leave anything behind, except four rolls of toilet paper. Did you know small, 4-packs are not readily available anymore after the Covid outbreak? We had to buy a 12-pack in Zesty. Where to store all that?
Our sturdy swing-out bike rack had to be disassembled. It didn’t fit in the trunk, but we managed to lay it behind the seats on the ground. Not much else fit in those foot wells.
Maya needed half of the back seat. All okay. We made it comfy with blankets, pillows, and her dog bed.

Maya in her little nest

Maya was awesome on this long ride!

The new bike rack attached to the trunk is crappy — we bought one for three bikes and luckily our electric bikes fit after lots of trial and error. Alas, it needs to be adjusted every time we stop as the straps keep loosening up.
This Nissan has no power. (Another reason why a full-size car would have been a better option – a stronger engine.)
First day: over 3,000rpm constantly. Struggled to keep up the maximum highway speed. After removing the bike bag, things settled down and the ride was smoother. Then, we had to also store the big bag.
The fuel tank only holds 10 gallons, so we have to stop at a gas station two or three times a day! (Another reason why a full-size car would have been a better option – a bigger gas tank.)
We are so low by the ground. Every car that passes us is higher!

Most people need a U-Haul truck to transport their belongings!

Uncomfortable seats.
Where is the car parked on the lot of the supermarket? Hard to find! It’s a non-distinct white rental car…
We put the bike bag back at night, so nobody could see the bikes. Luckily, we managed to park in front of our motel doors.
We stay at Motel 6. Nothing fancy and often run down, but the cheapest place to stay with pets (no extra fee). Prices per night ranged from $45 (Tucumcari, NM) to $65 (Calvert City, KY).

Mark searching for pick-up trucks at night

One motel had hiking trails nearby – score!

Another night, another motel, more research.

No shampoo provided in motels? Ours is packed in the trunk, underneath the rack and bikes. No way of getting in there. We make due, washing our hair with soap (Mark) or dish soap (me). If you read Plunge, you know I have practice with that. 🙂 Just like we made due when needing our sheets hidden in there, staying at a friend’s casita for the night.
Windy in New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma. Hard to make breakfast and lunch! We miss Zesty for that. And for human potty breaks.

A nice picnic area to eat lunch

The picnic areas in Oklahoma were filthy! No trash cans, so garbage everywhere. No toilets either. Broken glass. No spot for Maya to rest without getting hurt. We couldn’t stay for lunch.
The radio has issues.
The glove compartment door is open on the sides so things get pinched (like my sunglasses) or plainly fall out, each time I open the little door.
The fuel gauge didn’t work at the end, so we filled the tank instead of aiming for the amount we received the car with.
Because I couldn’t be added to our car rental agreement without paying a steep fee, Mark drove the entire 3,200 miles!

Arizona license plate in Massachusetts – not a common sight. Where is the desert?

But, we made it to Newburyport, Massachusetts, in one piece. The bikes did get scuffed up, however.

Most of our belongings, back in the room above the garage

First evening with Mark’s parents – they are happy we have returned.

The “office” and lounge area in our current digs

The “bedroom” and dining area” in our room – one person sits on the bed, the other on a foldable chair

I’m sure Maya misses sleeping with us on big hotel beds!

Stay tuned for the continuation of our truck search saga!

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

I submitted this post to Natalie’s Weekend Coffee Share #20 link-up.

Monthly Expenses – March 2021 (on the Baja Peninsula, Mexico)

April 12, 2021 / Liesbet / 26 Comments

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Pretty much the entire month of March, Mark, Maya, and I lived and traveled in Zesty in Baja California, Mexico. In general, life is cheaper south of the border, with the big exception of fuel. That’s why these final numbers were a bit surprising to me; I thought we’d do better. But, there were some unusual additions to our normal spending habits.

Sunrise at Playa La Perla

Our favorite campsite along Bahia Concepcion: Playa La Escondida

Laundry facilities at our campground in Loreto

Laundry prices – $1.50 per load of washing and $1.50 per load of drying

The only facilities at this $10 a night campground of Rancho Mil, an hour south of the US border, were trash, pit toilets, and cold showers.

One of them was the annual city tax for our camper, which ironically is rarely ever in Newburyport and when it is, it just sits on the driveway unused. We splurged on a whale tour, which was seriously worth the money – but not so much the effort getting there… Our annual Chase Sapphire Reserve visa card fee is always due in March. While this seems high, we get much more than $150 back in credits, points, and other benefits during a year of usage. We also had a wonderful dinner out for Mark’s 50th birthday.

One of the many whales approaching our little boat

The utility category is higher than usual, because we kept our affordable and discontinued AT&T plan in the US ($35/ month for unlimited data use) while also buying a Mexican equivalent from Telcel for our time in Baja. The same happened with our dog, Maya. We needed new dog food in Mexico, which wasn’t a good idea (more about that in an upcoming blog) and which resulted in ordering better food that awaited us upon our return across the border.

Eating out(side) with our camping friends Sandie and Karsten from Germany

Free camping south of Mulege

Camped for free near Mesquite Canyon

On the flipside, groceries were affordable. We only bought enough for a few days at a time and ate out frequently. Based on that, I did expect the dining out category to be higher, especially since it includes a fancy (very!) delayed birthday meal for me, joined by our friends Sandie and Karsten. On my actual birthday (and book launch), our bubble of friends only had snacks to hold us over because nobody felt like cooking.

Free camping near Posada Concepcion

Calm morning walk

The settlement of Posada Concepcion

Free camping north of Loreto

Beach and view towards Loreto

More chances to do my favorite walk along Bahia Concepcion

While it sure adds up, camping appeared cheaper than anticipated as well. Half of the nights in Baja, we paid for Zesty to be parked at an official campground ($10 a night) or on the beach ($7 – $10/night), where Mexican concessionaries would collect their fees. I did bargain when we stayed longer in one place along Bahia Concepcion and we intermittently camped for free in Mexico and always once back in the US.

Free camping between Bahia Concepcion and Loreto

View over the bay

Maya enjoys being outdoors

Parked overnight (for free) at Villa Jesus and Maria on our drive back north

Free camping south of San Felipe

To see how fellow nomads Duwan and Greg made out in March, click here.

Compare this result to the one from last month – also in Baja California – here. Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Encounters of the Whale Kind

April 5, 2021 / Liesbet / 44 Comments

The shallow Ojo de Liebre Lagoon (also called Scammon’s Lagoon) and the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California, Mexico, are the breeding grounds of the California gray whale, who migrate here every winter. Peak season to watch the adults and babies is from January through March. Ojo de Liebre (“hare eye lagoon”), a coastal lagoon near the town of Guerrero Negro, is a prime location to spot these humongous yet gentle creatures.

Whale and tail

Attempt One: Laguna Ojo de Liebre Campground

Sometime in February, Mark, Maya, and I drove 12 miles down a bumpy, gravel road past a salt mine to reach the departure point for whale watch tours ($50 per person) and set up camp for a few days.

Salt mine

Driving through one of the salt mines

Maya enjoys the scenery

It’s a beautiful location with lots of birds and trails to walk Maya – all for the price of 100 pesos ($5) for however long you’d like to stay. We could watch whale spouts through binoculars all day long. While a tad pricey for us, I decided to sign on for one of the tours, using birthday money from my parents.

Nice and quiet campsite at Ojo de Liebre (as long as it wasn’t too windy)

Maya dug out a shady hole in the dunes to rest

I could sit there and look for whales all day.

Frolicking Maya

Sunset over Ojo de Liebre

Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Nature (page 6 of 19)

Back in Baja (Kind of) – A Week of Dunes, Drives & Decisions

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Discoveries in New Mexico – Gila National Forest

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Snowy Encounter in Mystic, SD – An Artist’s Sanctuary in the Black Hills

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Five Days in the Badlands of South Dakota – A Photo Story of Spectacular Scenery & Wandering Wildlife (& a Daring Dog)

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New York Surprises – Waterfall Extravaganza!

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Spectacular Sunsets on the Water – A Photo Blog

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Monthly Expenses – May 2021

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Monthly Expenses – April 2021 (& Another Cross-Country Road Trip)

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Monthly Expenses – March 2021 (on the Baja Peninsula, Mexico)

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Encounters of the Whale Kind

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Roaming About – Liesbet Collaert & Mark Kilty & Maya

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