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A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Places (page 2 of 22)

Biking down Death Road in Bolivia – The World’s Most Dangerous Road

February 10, 2024 / / 33 Comments

Mark, Maya, and I had just started our camp host duties at Las Lomas in La Paz, Bolivia, at the end of December 2023 and our Canadian friends Sheri and Jeff were with us in their truck camper. Jeff and I had done a couple of crazy things in South America so far, like jump off a bridge in Baños, Ecuador, and order patitas from a toothless street vendor in La Paz. If you follow our Roaming About page on Facebook, you might remember that shocking food discovery. If not, I suggest you Google what patitas are. 🙂

An “official” stand for patitas
Don’t these look yummy?

So, when Jeff was looking for an adventurous buddy to bike down the World’s Most Dangerous Road, which is located near La Paz, the only thing that kept me from joining was the tour price of around US$70. Then I remembered I still had gift money from my parents. The game was on!

Group shot above a valley

The two of us did a bit of research into tour companies (these daytrips range from $60-$120), picked a middle-of-the-road agency with good reviews (Vertigo), and booked our mountain bike tour for December 29th. There was one problem, however: the company needed at least three participants to set out on Death Road. Luckily, we had a full campground by then and I succeeded in arranging a group of seven people to participate: six bicyclists and one sightseer.

Our transportation to and support vehicle on Death Road
Time to test our gear and start the day!
Impressive mountain scenery

The official name of Death Road is North Yungas Road. Its other famous nickname of The World’s Most Dangerous Road was appointed in 1995 after 200 to 300 people died yearly in accidents, usually from vehicles falling off the steep cliffs. The road is gravel and narrow, single-lane in most places, with barely a guardrail or space to pull over.

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One Month in La Paz, Bolivia – As Campground Hosts

February 2, 2024 / / 29 Comments

The Opportunity

When we first arrived at Las Lomas Campground in La Paz, Bolivia, on Christmas Day, we couldn’t wait to leave. It had been a pain to get here, the nasty approach caused damage to the camper before we arrived, the place was busy and tight, and we had an engine problem.

Location of La Paz in Bolivia
Big and colorful La Paz sign

Soon, however, the cozy environment grew on us. When we learned the owner, Marcos, was leaving on vacation for one month the next day and could use an overlander couple to watch his property and manage the campground, we made a quick decision. We committed to the job. Free camping with amenities in exchange for running this small (and at that moment quiet) business seemed fair – and our trio was more than ready for a break from the road!

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The patio and communal buildings
The communal living and dining room
The kitchen
One of the two bathrooms

The Campground Tasks

The first day we were “on duty,” only our Canadian friends Jeff and Sheri were here. We could get used to this! Being responsible for a small property and a couple of buildings we kept tidy, and sitting outside in the sun, chatting, lying low…

Full campground
Drone footage of Las Lomas Campground, early January 2024
Thomas and Sandra leave for their next adventure
Katherine is all geared up for her next trip
Watching our friends Katherine and Brandon leave for the umpteenth time. When will we see them again? Chile or Argentina?
Saying goodbye often is part of this lifestyle

Then, one after another camper showed up and soon, the place was filled to the brim with German and French visitors. Mark and I played Tetris to fit them all onto the property. Someone needed to spend their first night on the street, since there was no more room inside. And, when one vehicle wanted to leave, others had to move around and exit the gate to accommodate the departing campers. That was the scene for a good two weeks, over and after the holidays.

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From Cusco, Peru to La Paz, Bolivia – As Overlanders

January 29, 2024 / / 23 Comments

Peru

Cusco

After my cousin and her husband left Cusco on December 6th, Mark and I finished some work assignments and camper projects (and I created a 2024 calendar for my family), and socialized with our Canadian friends Sheri and Jeff. Just as we were ready to leave town, we learned our American motorcycle friends Katherine and Brandon would arrive the following day!

(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)

Great group photo of us and our vehicles in Cusco
Dinner out with Katherine and Brandon at our favorite vegetarian restaurant in Cusco
Mark gives our friends tips about how to reach Machu Picchu

We didn’t want to miss that, of course, and decided to camp on the edge of Cusco for a couple of nights to spend time with them – and work. We have met up with Katherine and Brandon in “every” country of South America so far: Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru. (And, most recently, Bolivia.) After seeing them several times in Baja, Mexico and Idaho and Oregon in the US.

Drinks and popcorn in Bella with Katherine and Brandon
Katherine carries dog food for strays on her motorcycle – Maya knows!
Waving our motorcycle friends off again – not for long, this time…

Sheri and Jeff – who we were supposed to meet down the road – had finished their Sacred Valley explorations by then and joined us as well. We had fun times together, especially when Jeff revealed one of his T-shirts… I mentioned in a previous post that our friends had a few surprises for us. 😊

Back at Piss Alley, where we camped near Jeff and Sheri’s camper for our last nights in Cusco
Drinks out in Cusco with friends – Jeff and Sheri surprised us with this funny T-shirt!
A slightly better look at the surprise T-shirt Jeff was wearing

Tinajani Canyon

Us, truck camper overlanders, moved on and drove for two long days. Our first stop – after filling up with propane at the other end of Cusco – was Tinajani Canyon, where we had camped and walked before.

Crazy drivers in Peru – they always have to cut you off. Always.
Another, long-term, road closure in Cusco
Company of a skinny stray dog while patiently waiting for our propane tank to get filled.
Getting our propane tank topped up on the edge of Cusco
Road work – at every bridge – between Cusco and the border
Arriving in Tinajani Canyon for the second time

It was quiet at night, but a tad chilly at 13,000ft (around 4,000m). We paid the cheese factory a visit, but they were out of Gouda. This is where the exhaustion and sickness caught up with me, leading to an extra night of staying put, for me to rest. The symptoms reminded me of the flu and I was “out” for five days.

Camped in Tinajani Canyon with Jeff and Sheri (Photo courtesy of Sheri Ouellet)
My favorite spot to hang out – protected from the strong winds and enjoying the nice view
Can you spot Thirsty Bella?
Maya keeps me company, but has an eye on the camper (which contains Mark) at all times!
One more visit to the local Tinajani cheese factory
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Cusco, the Sacred Valley & Machu Picchu in Peru – With Visitors

January 20, 2024 / / 40 Comments

Note: For more info and photos of Cusco and the Sacred Valley, which Mark and I visited before, check out this post and this one.

(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)

Cusco in Peru
Cusco & the Sacred Valley

Cusco

After our two-week adventure in Arequipa and Colca Canyon, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the tourist mecca of Cusco. We slept the first night for free on the edge of town to walk to the grocery store and stock up, and to have dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Teryaki.

Shrimp poke bowl at Teryaki

The following morning, the three of us walked to and through the two areas we had booked Airbnbs, to get a feel for them. We stumbled across a “market” along a busy street, where locals were selling puppies. It put a bad taste in our mouths. There are so many stray dogs that need help and a good home, yet, just like in the western world, people would rather buy animals than rescue them.

Locals selling puppies
Puppies crammed in crates
More puppies being sold

After our reconnaissance, we relocated higher up, to the Quinta Lala campground, where we met our American friends Heather and Rodney. The idea was to relax for one week, catch up on much needed sleep, and prepare for the visit of my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, on November 20th. Of course, that didn’t happen.

Working on the roof at Quinta Lala
Parked next to Jeff and Sheri’s truck camper, before they arrived

Mark was hired by our friends to install their new Starlink system and did his freelance job other times and I received translation project after translation project, leaving little time for fun and rest. Whenever we had a moment, we enjoyed the company of Heather and Rodney.

Homecooked dinner with Rodney and Heather at Quinta Lala

They had brought parts for us from the US, among which a new laptop, so we focused on fixing and installing a few things in – and on – Bella and getting Mark’s computer ready for use. It was all time consuming.

Our friends Rodney and Heather brought a bunch of gear back from the US for us
We needed a new 12V vacuum cleaner (our old one broke) to dry out our ceiling.

We also had to make sure Maya received enough exercise, did laundry by hand to save some money, met up with a Canadian friend (tour guide and climber Marie, who surprised us with maple syrup and maple butter), cleaned the interior of the car and camper, and walked into town a couple of times, taking a cab back up the hill. All the while, we needed to consider daily downpours, as the rainy season in Peru had started in earnest.

Treats from Quebec, Canada, brought by our friend Marie
Rodney takes a break near the top of the steps
Aqueduct in Cusco
Climbing steps in San Blas
Cute bars, restaurants, and decorations in San Blas
Another mural in Cusco’s historic center
San Blas church and square
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Arequipa and Colca Canyon – Exploring Southern Peru in a Truck Camper

January 8, 2024 / / 22 Comments

After our crazy, stressful, and unexpected three-day “border run” to Bolivia, hoping to receive sixty extra days as a tourist in Peru (and eventually succeeding), Mark and I needed a quiet place to recover. Our next destination was Arequipa, but we were not in a rush.

Southern Peru
Visited Sites Southern Peru

First, we drove the three hours from the Kasani border to Puno, where we stocked up on groceries. Then, we continued for another two hours to a peaceful, remote lake, Laguna Sara Cocha, to rest and catch up on internet chores. Because the elevation was still quite high, at 13,800ft (4,200m), the nights were cold, so we couldn’t linger too long.

Welcome to Puno
Driving by Puno and its Lake Titicaca
Laguna Sara Cocha

Laguna Sara Cocha

When our trio arrived at the lake, we were happy to find a pretty, free camping spot, surrounded by alpacas and llamas. Perfect!

Camped for a couple of nights by Laguna Sara Cocha
Greeted by alpacas
This is llama and alpaca territory
Curious llamas and alpacas
Flamingos live at high elevations as well!

Imagine our surprise, when at 6am the next morning, a Sunday, we woke up to the sound of hundreds of cars driving by. If we wouldn’t know any better, we’d think we were parked next to a gravel highway! We were baffled by the commotion and brainstormed reasons as to why traffic had picked up so much. Did the inhabitants of the little hamlet nearby all go to church – in their own cars – in Puno? Nope. The cars were driving in the opposite direction, towards no-man’s land. A massive party in the middle of nowhere?

When vehicles surrounded Thirsty Bella and people got comfortable on blankets and in chairs near us, I inquired. Apparently, the annual car rally around the lake took place that day and spectators drove in early to pick good “podium seats”! Unbelievable. Our peace and rest would have to wait until the following day.

Camped close to the action
A car race in session

We embraced this unusual event and reveled in the families having fun on a Sunday morning and afternoon. By the end of the day, only garbage remained.

Laguna de Salinas

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Two Highlights in Peru: Pallcoyo Colored Mountains and the Reed Islands of Uros in Titicaca Lake

November 21, 2023 / / 34 Comments

After we departed the Sacred Valley and Cusco, we had less than two weeks left in Peru, so we headed towards the border with Bolivia, slowly. The idea was to obtain another 60 days or more to meet up with family from Belgium and friends from Canada back in Cusco, the end of November.

Laguna de Huacarpay

Our first night heading east was spent along a small and peaceful lake, enjoyed by local families that Sunday afternoon. The night was relatively quiet, until we were awakened by knocks on the side of the camper at 5am. It was a Peruvian man asking us if anyone else had been camped here in a tent last night. Not that we knew, but why was that important enough to wake up two gringos? We will never know.

A popular campsite for dogs during the weekend
Laguna Huacarpay

Pallcoyo Colored Mountains

Then, we headed to what would become our favorite destination in this country to date. It was a tough one to get to. From the moment we turned off the main road and onto the one-lane side track, we had to back up for three tour vans. We figured in the afternoon, it would be quieter; hence our late start… These were tourists heading back to Cusco at 3pm, after two hours of driving down the mountain.

Luckily, we didn’t encounter anyone else on our way up this narrow, tricky road. After an hour of exercising steel nerves and concentration, we pulled over along the river. Our only company some locals passing by on motorcycles or cars, but mostly a shepherd and her flock of sheep, llamas, and alpacas.

Narrow road driving up the mountain
Camped among sheep, llamas, and alpacas
Curious llama
Our riverside camping spot for a few nights
Maya loves splashing in the water
The mountain river next to our campsite

The following day had one purpose: watch the traffic patterns on this tight, gravel road (to use that information for our drive to the top – and back down) and figure out if we would take the camper up or just the truck (leaving our home behind for half a day again). Or, to hitch a ride or pay our way with a tour van, which would mean less flexibility and a bigger crowd.

After deciding to take our entire truck camper up, we left at 6:30am to arrive at Pallcoyo Mountain, also called Three Colored Mountains or Three Rainbow Mountains, an hour later. I was impressed by the scenery along the way. It was as if we were driving through a nature documentary in the Andes Mountains (we were!) – stunning terraces, bucolic scenes like a kid tending to a donkey and a Quechua woman carrying a lamb in a bag on her back that jumped out as we passed, and spectacular yet barren mountain sides at this high elevation.

Leaving with the first light
Making our way up the mountain, along terraced fields
Before we reach the real Colored Mountains
Signing in and paying our entrance fees
Thirsty Bella among colorful mountains
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The Sacred Valley in Peru – As Overlanders

November 6, 2023 / / 29 Comments

After two weeks in Cusco, doing camper projects, running errands, being sick, and exploring the historic center, our plans turned a bit tricky. My cousin and her husband, perfect guests who visited us frequently when we sailed in the tropics, had booked plane tickets to join us in the Cusco area for two weeks, towards the end of November, following a two-week bus tour through Southern Peru. Nothing tricky about that, except for the fact that our immigration stamps expired the end of October…

Based on accounts from other overlanders, we believed we had a good chance to obtain another sixty days in Peru, at the border with Bolivia; an ordeal we’d have to figure out later and something I worried about for over a month. It was mid-October now and we had two weeks left in the country.

We expected to visit the Sacred Valley with my family, but what if we wouldn’t be allowed back into Peru? Were we willing to miss out on this country’s highlights, like Machu Picchu, Arequipa, and the villages and archeological sites in the Valle Segrado?

Mark and I opted for an in-between solution: we skipped famous Machu Picchu (expensive and a hassle to get to) – for now – and bought a two-day tourist ticket for 70 soles/$20 each to visit the highlights of the Sacred Valley. This would be a different way of traveling for us, who usually take it slowly, camping wherever it looks attractive. We had two days to explore five sites and two historic villages!

Location Sacred Valley in Peru
Highlights of the Sacred Valley

Pisac archeological site

From the Cusco campground, we headed uphill, past the trio of ruins we’d checked out previously, via a viewpoint that offered potable water from a spigot, to a pull-out along a quiet road for the night. The following morning, we descended into the valley and spotted the famous terraced hills of Pisac.

Getting potable water at a viewpoint
The terraces of Pisac, seen from the viewpoint
Incredible stonework and paths!

Traveling with a camper makes it easy to leave our dog behind, in a cool and shady environment with plenty of water. Mark and I braved the long climb to the citadel, breathing heavily in the thin air and taking many breaks.

The Pisac archeological site is a large Incan complex of agricultural terraces, residences, guard posts, watchtowers, and a ceremonial center along a mountain ridge above the town of the same name. It was built around 1440.

Fort-like structure when entering Pisac
Buildings at a lower level
View into the valley and over the switchback road to the ruins
Structures higher on the hill, a serious climb away
Meandering through the old fort

Little is known about the site’s actual purpose. Researchers believe that old Pisac defended the southern entrance to the Sacred Valley and was an observatory and religious site.

Famous terraces of Pisac
Walking over the top terrace to get to another side of the grounds
Well-maintained Inca wall
The terraces and valley seen from the other side
Climbing up and among the buildings of the upper part of the site
Remnants of the old Inca village of Pisac

The best way to explore this destination is by taking a taxi or minibus to the entrance, climbing the hill, and then following a path down to Pisac town. Since we had our vehicle with us, we only visited the top part of this impressive site.

A llama and an alpaca grazing in the old walls
Trying to leave this touristy site that had gotten much busier by the time we finished exploring
Quechua mother and child on our way down the mountain

Pisac town

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Cusco & Surroundings in Peru – As Overlanders

October 26, 2023 / / 46 Comments

Most overlanders (RVers, campers) who visit Cusco stay at the campground Quinta Lala above town. It’s possible to walk to the city center from there and then have a tough climb back home, at 12,000ft elevation, or take a $3 cab ride. 

Cusco in Peru
Cusco, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay in Peru
Blocked in at our parking spot during the weekend

Mark and I decided to spend our first handful of days closer to the historic district, at a free parking area, a few blocks from the main square, Plaza de Armas. It was the perfect location to run errands and explore the beautiful heart of Cusco.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Plaza de Armas, easily the most beautiful plaza we have encountered in South America!
Beautiful buildings around the main plaza
Old church
Quechua women walking baby sheep and llamas to pose and be photographed for money
Cathedral
Narrow alleyways
Mural
Indigenous monument
Church in the hills, seen from the main plaza
Cute courtyard

We managed to get heaps of laundry done affordably (after hauling it up many steps to the drop-off store), but this required checking several of the numerous laundry places, as they cheat you with their scales, and multiple walks back and forth, since the task lasted longer than promised.

Steep and narrow roads to drive and walk
Don’t believe anything these signs say!

It took us a few days to find the right materials – in addition to parts brought from the US by a friend – for our Starlink mounting project. A couple of big grocery stores and the central market, as well as a wonderful bakery, Cosqo Maki, were within walking distance. 

We finally found a plexiglass shop!
Buying a piece of plexiglass and having it cut to our dimensions
Church by the central market – there is a big supermarket here as well (Orion)
Many different varieties of potatoes at the San Pedro Central Market
Our favorite bakery

And, our Italian friends Valeria and Davide joined us after their terrible radiator problem came to a happy end. We explored town together and shared a few yummy meals – and drinks.

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Overlanding from Lima to Cusco in Peru – Paracas, the Famous Nazca Lines, and Other Attractions

October 19, 2023 / / 30 Comments
Lima to Cusco via Paracas, Peru
Route from Lima to Cusco

Paracas

Before heading inland again from the generally unattractive Peruvian coast, Mark, Maya, and I stopped in the beach town of Paracas on 9/11. The commercial center didn’t do much for us – it was touristy, expensive, and unfriendly – but when we arrived at a free parking lot late afternoon, we liked what we saw. This camping spot was big and relatively level, quiet, pretty, and litter free. Maybe we could stay a few days? The sun was present in a blue sky when we walked Maya, and later gloriously set over the peninsula that is Paracas National Park. Not bad…

(As always, click on or hover over the images in the galleries to read their captions.)

More trash along the coast
Our first impression of Paracas town and beach
Afternoon walk along the boardwalk without hordes of tourists
Maya meets a buddy on the boardwalk
Sunset on our first evening

We watched in awe as local men pulled boats out of the water on a rusty trailer, pulled by an old, extremely noisy pickup truck, pulled by a newer truck. We deducted that they keep using the crappy, ancient truck to deal with the salty water and the fancier one higher up the beach for its power.

Truck pulling truck pulling boat – a daily occurrence next to us, outside the sand storm days

Mark and I had parked our camper next to a big, stationary power boat on a trailer that didn’t seem to have moved in years. It had bent axels and flat tires. We figured our spot was wise; out of the way and somewhat blocked by the trailer.

“This boat must have been stored here for many months and will never move,” we thought.
How could it move, right?
Well, it did!

Imagine our surprise when, around sunset, a group of guys in pickup trucks arrived, inflated the tires of the trailer with a compressor powered by a generator, removed some wooden blocks, and, after a few attempts, managed to pull this mastodont with a truck pulling a truck, all the way to the street and out of sight, taking down an electrical wire along the way. The scene was insane!

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Peru’s Capital, Lima – A Pleasant Surprise

September 27, 2023 / / 44 Comments

Our route from Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca to Lima, Peru’s capital, was no joke. The first stretch of road (3N) towards a main east-west highway (Hwy 16) was riddled with potholes and took hours to complete. Each time we wanted to weave around a massive hole, into the other lane, someone else overtook us, forcing Thirsty Bella to slow to a crawl and go through the craters. Not a fun drive.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Leaving the snowy Cordillera Blanca
A road sprinkled with potholes
A man filling potholes in return for tips
Even in the towns, the road surface can be horrendous.
Approaching the coast

Barranca

Once we reached Hwy 16, the going was smooth and relatively fast again, towards the barren, desolate, littered coastline. We spent one night in the beach town of Barranca to break up the trip to Lima. It was the weekend, so not a surprise that loud music and a partying bar had us move camping spots in the middle of the night.

Parked at our first choice in Barranca
On Sunday afternoons, everyone comes to the waterfront to blast music and drink beer.
As the sun set, more crowds gathered to party.
Another grey, coastal city
We moved to this spot in the dark, hoping for a quieter night.

Miraflores

The estimated four-hour drive from Barranca easily took an hour longer due to the horrendous traffic of Lima. Slow progress is what it is, but when you have to fight for a spot on the road with massive semi-trucks, who make left turns from the extreme right lane and you’re pushed from all sides by impatient drivers, while literally everyone honks their horn, you can imagine driving around the capital (let alone in it!) is far from ideal!

Back at the coast, back at the trash piles
More trash along the Pan-American Highway
Stuck in Lima traffic arriving
Trucks making crazy maneuvers
Stuck in Lima traffic leaving

Once we were settled at one of the many (secured) beach parking lots in the Miraflores area, we let out a sigh of relief and contacted our new American friends whom we met near Laguna Churup. Mark and I took Maya for a walk along the seemingly infinite “boardwalk” and grey shoreline.

Coastline in Lima
Lima attracts a lot of surfers
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