Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Travel (page 14 of 28)

Tale of Two Towns – Mulegé & Loreto in Baja California Sur

Mark, Maya, and I entered Baja California, Mexico, on February 1st 2021 in Zesty, without much of a plan. No surprise there! The main reason for our decision to cross the border was threefold: we needed a break from the US and its chaos, politics, and atmosphere, we aimed to find warmer weather, and we were both ready for a little “vacation” after all the hard work on my travel memoir Plunge.

Other than that, we’d drive until we found 1) warmth or 2) an area that spoke to us. Number two came first in the form of Mulegé, a town off the beaten tourist track about 2/3 down the Baja peninsula on the Sea of Cortez side.

Why Mulegé?

Sometimes, when you find a place that touches your heart, it’s difficult to describe why. Mark and I drove through and stayed in this town – actually in the exact same campground – fifteen years ago on our journey south (which brought us all the way to Panama and back) in a truck camper with our dogs Kali and Darwin. But it didn’t leave an impression. Also, we had different goals of sightseeing and exploring back then, not hanging out and immersing ourselves.

Here’s what we liked about this little gem on our recent visit:

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Monthly Expenses – March 2021 (on the Baja Peninsula, Mexico)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Pretty much the entire month of March, Mark, Maya, and I lived and traveled in Zesty in Baja California, Mexico. In general, life is cheaper south of the border, with the big exception of fuel. That’s why these final numbers were a bit surprising to me; I thought we’d do better. But, there were some unusual additions to our normal spending habits.

One of them was the annual city tax for our camper, which ironically is rarely ever in Newburyport and when it is, it just sits on the driveway unused. We splurged on a whale tour, which was seriously worth the money – but not so much the effort getting there… Our annual Chase Sapphire Reserve visa card fee is always due in March. While this seems high, we get much more than $150 back in credits, points, and other benefits during a year of usage. We also had a wonderful dinner out for Mark’s 50th birthday.

One of the many whales approaching our little boat

The utility category is higher than usual, because we kept our affordable and discontinued AT&T plan in the US  ($35/ month for unlimited data use) while also buying a Mexican equivalent from Telcel for our time in Baja. The same happened with our dog, Maya. We needed new dog food in Mexico, which wasn’t a good idea (more about that in an upcoming blog) and which resulted in ordering better food that awaited us upon our return across the border.

On the flipside, groceries were affordable. We only bought enough for a few days at a time and ate out frequently. Based on that, I did expect the dining out category to be higher, especially since it includes a fancy (very!) delayed birthday meal for me, joined by our friends Sandie and Karsten. On my actual birthday (and book launch), our bubble of friends only had snacks to hold us over because nobody felt like cooking.

While it sure adds up, camping appeared cheaper than anticipated as well. Half of the nights in Baja, we paid for Zesty to be parked at an official campground ($10 a night) or on the beach ($7 – $10/night), where Mexican concessionaries would collect their fees. I did bargain when we stayed longer in one place along Bahia Concepcion and we intermittently camped for free in Mexico and always once back in the US.

To see how fellow nomads Duwan and Greg made out in March, click here.

March 2021 Overview:

Camper (diesel: $184; city tax: $77):

Groceries:

Camping:

Bank charge (visa card):

Dining out:

Entertainment (whale tour):

Utilities (internet: $61; water: $9; prop: $6; Skype: $5):

Dog (food: $61; vet: $4):

Gifts (B-day dinner Mark):

Household:

Alcohol:

Clothing (flip flops):

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$261

$189

$162

$150

$97

$94

$81

$65

$50

$25

$8

$6

$6

———

$ 1,194

Compare this result to the one from last month – also in Baja California – here. Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Writing Update April 2021 – Baja Bounty

Every first Wednesday of the month, the IWSG (Insecure Writer’s Support Group) engages writers to share their fears, thoughts, progress, struggles, excitement, encouragement, or anything really, about their writing. A different question is posed each month as a writing prompt. Answering it is optional. For April, the question is: “Are you a risk-taker when writing? Do you try something radically different in style/POV/etc. or add controversial topics to your work?”

This amazing, supportive group of writers was founded by Alex J. Cavanaugh. Today, the co-hosts are PK Hrezo, Pat Garcia, SE White, Lisa Buie Collard, and Diane Burton! Click on their names to see what they are up to this month..

My answer to the question – Do I take risks when writing?

People who have followed this blog for a while know that I am not averse to risk taking. Although I call my swift decisions, adventurous lifestyle, and “going with the flow” attitude “calculated risks.” ???? You only live once, so you better do the things you’re passionate about, and enjoy your precious time on earth. That sometimes involves expanding horizons, nudging comfort levels, taking risks.

I don’t feel like I’m taking big risks with my writing as it reflects my personality and doesn’t push my personal boundaries. That being said, I am aware that my travel memoir Plunge is different and a tad controversial. For starters, the story is set in the present tense, taking the reader along for the ride – physically and emotionally. I don’t cover things up, have no taboos, and touch on the good as well as the bad and the ugly when it comes to my alternative lifestyle and 24/7 relationship with my husband. This makes some readers uncomfortable; they are not used to “brutal honesty” and don’t care for an exposed soul (another aspect that makes my memoir unique).

Based on that – and the fact that this approach led to a one-star review and some criticism – I guess I am a bit of a risk-taker in my writing, too!

Sunrise at the beach

My book news

Mark, Maya, and I spent February and March enjoying our lives in Baja California, Mexico. This was a reward for all the hard work finishing and publishing Plunge last year. I knew that once we arrived on the peninsula, internet would be sparse and unreliable and that my time would be better spent charging my batteries (other than usual work commitments). Therefore, I laid a lot of groundwork spreading the word about my book before we crossed the southern border of the US.

Relaxing and reading

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A Special Baja Birthday – My Husband’s 50th

Mark has a fantastic group of tight-knit college friends. Most of them turn 50 this year. The plan was for the men to gather somewhere fun in the spring of 2021 and have a mighty good time. But, because of Covid, no such plans were made. It was up to me to throw a two-person and one-dog special birthday party! How? By renting a small casita along Bahia Concepcion, via AirBnB.

The blue casita is where we stayed for Mark’s birthday weekend

A jaunt to Mexico seems to be my go-to when it comes to quick Mexican-themed birthdays for my husband. Three years ago, we ended up in Puerto Penasco, because I couldn’t find a restaurant in the middle of the desert of Southern Arizona to treat him (he loves Mexican food). In March 2006, we found ourselves on the mainland of Mexico for Mark’s birthday celebrations.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read the captions. My images are heavily resized for easier downloading and uploading; I apologize for their inferior quality.)

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Baja Bound (Part Two) – Beach Time!

I’m running a little behind with my Baja blogs. Sorry! Blame my lack of internet. Or, just blame me. I haven’t felt like sitting behind my computer lately, or scanning thousands of new photos. I’ll get there. When time and WiFi availability allow. Soon. ????

Who wants to sit inside, behind a computer, when this view can be had while relaxing outside?

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read the captions. My images are heavily resized for easier downloading and uploading; I apologize for their inferior quality.)

From West to East

The Baja California peninsula is relatively narrow, so it doesn’t take long to get from one side to the other. Mex 1 is the main “highway” in this part of Mexico. It predominantly runs along the coasts with a few zigzags back and forth. After our stop in Guerrero Negro, where I left off in a previous post, Zesty transported us through the narrow middle, past desolate landscapes, cacti, dry terrain, barren hills, and small settlements.

We decided to stop in the oasis of San Ignacio, a lush and tropical reprieve from the desert that is Baja California. The town is exceptionally clean and well taken care of. Highlights are the town square and the mission, Misión San Ignacio Kadakaamán, which was founded by the Jesuit missionary Juan Bautista de Luyando in 1728.

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Monthly Expenses – February 2021 (on the Baja Peninsula)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Approaching Bahia Concepcion

The entire month of February, Mark, Maya, and I lived and traveled in Zesty in Baja California, Mexico. In general, life is cheaper south of the border, with the big exception of fuel. Even though we drive a campervan – some might call it an RV – we get 23 miles to the gallon. This is awesome fuel economy, especially compared to the 16mpg in our truck camper, fifteen  years ago, and to most other campers. Back in Arizona, diesel was cheap ($2.20/gallon), which meant we spent about $1 for every ten miles we drove. Here in Mexico, we pay double that ($4.50/gallon)!

Another bigger-than-normal expense was the gift category. Mark had a special birthday on March 1st, but his main “present” was bought in February. More about that later. We also bought tourist cards upon entering the country.

Our camping/accommodation category is usually zero. In Mexico, we decided to take things a bit easier and more comfortable while at the same time supporting local businesses that are hit hard due to the pandemic. For the same reasons, we savored plenty of take-out and outdoor meals. We love street tacos, especially the fish ones!

The utilities category is also higher than other months, because we are paying for two data plans: the one from the US (which we are not using at all right now) and our Amigo plan (8GB for $25)  in Mexico, which comes in handy around towns. Staying at official campgrounds has allowed us to be frustrated with take advantage of intermittent WiFi. We are filling our fresh water tank up with agua purificada from water-dispensing stores, so we can keep drinking it instead of buying and refilling 5-gallon jugs. Doing the dishes and showering with “pure” water does feel a tad luxurious!

February was a month of few expense categories and enjoying a quiet, basic lifestyle. This is reflected in our less-than-average total, despite the extra money for certain conveniences. I am a bit behind with my blog posts and – certainly – with my blog reading and commenting, but I happily blame the lack of internet for that, which has been blissful! 🙂

To see how our friends Duwan and Greg made out in February, click here.

February 2021 Overview:

Gifts (birthday Mark):

Camper (Mexican ins.: $143; diesel: $114; maint.: $17):

Groceries:

Camping:

Dining out:

Utilities (internet: $67; water: $11):

Customs & Immigration:

Alcohol:

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$277

$272

$196

$172

$86

$78

$61

$20

$5

———

$ 1,167

Sunrise over the Sea of Cortez

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Baja Bound (Part One) – A Change of Scenery

The Plan

Mark and I had been playing around with the idea of going to Baja California, Mexico, during the winter since the fall of 2020. But as long as I needed reliable internet every day (first to publish my book, then to promote it, on top of other jobs and blogging commitments), crossing the border was not going to happen.

As January approached and we found ourselves in an uninspiring, windy California desert that turned even more chilly from the moment the sun set (before 5pm), the desire to find warmer weather grew. Don’t forget our home measures only 80sq feet, so being able to live outside is a requirement. Whenever my live webinar/presentation for the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) was delivered, we would leave the US for a chunk of time.

Except, the day after my “performance,” rumor had it that the border officials in Mexicali were cranking down on non-essential travel into their municipality. Would they turn us back if we crossed there, even when only driving through? We didn’t want to lie about our reason for visiting (saying that we were going to Mexico for dental work for example), besides, I’d just been to the dentist.

So we changed our plans, added a few more days to prepping our crossing, which now included an extra drive back east to a different border town after doing laundry, washing Zesty, and stocking up the van in Yuma, AZ, instead of El Centro, CA.

The interior of Baja California seen from the interior of Zesty

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read the captions. My photos are heavily resized for easier loading of the page.)

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Fun in Southeastern Arizona & California

People who have been following my blog the last six months (and longer) know that I have been extremely busy with a personal project that finally came to fruition the end of November. This doesn’t mean the work is finished, as December and January still had me glued to the computer to promote my travel memoir, Plunge. The question is: did we have any fun throughout the focus and dedication towards my book?

(As always, hover over photos or click on them to read captions. My photos are heavily resized, so I can easily upload them and so this page loads with weaker internet connections.)

I have offered glimpses of that in previous posts, expense reports, and writing updates, but I have left a lot out as well. It is my intention to fill in the gaps today. Since my memory is nothing to boast about, I will let the photos do most of the talking. ???? My last sightseeing update documented how we arrived in Arizona, the end of November. You can read about that here.

On the drive to Tucson from Wilcox Lagoons, we briefly stopped in Benson to meet a fellow Westy owner.

Mark and I met up with two befriended couples and fellow overlanding nomads, Duwan and Greg (and their van Ballena Blanca) of Make Like An Ape Man and Ellen and Scott (with their tiny Scamper) of Ellen Jacobson Author, for Thanksgiving, my 45th birthday, and my book launch. I wrote a post about that milestone event here and Duwan did a better job with that here. For the next few weeks, we would see our friends on and off.

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“Plunge” in the Ironwood Forest – My Book & I Featured on Make Like An Ape Man

My good friend Duwan, a fellow nomad, adventurer, vanlifer, ex-sailor, and frugal spender, wrote a touching and compelling post about me and my travel memoir, Plunge, on her informative and entertaining blog Make Like An Ape Man. I have linked to her posts before, as we’ve been on a similar path and traveled together in the past, but this story of hers had me truly amazed.

Her prose is humbling and flattering and provides a different, more personal side to anything else being published about me (except for my memoir itself :-)). Plus, it has some funny photos! Check it out here. You won’t regret it!

Saguaro cactus in the Ironwood Forest National Monument

November 25 – December 1, 2020.

Towards the end of November three couples and the lovely canine, Maya, converged in Tucson. All ex sailors (except for Maya). All now wandering around on the hard. We had met one of the couples, Scamper Squad, years and years ago after reading their blog and discovering they were working on their boat in the same marina as us in Indiantown, Florida. We were introduced to the other couple, Mark and Liesbet, through their blog after my friend from Scamper Squad suggested that I check it out. Like us, they had sailed, had house sat, and were traveling the country in a van. We eventually met them in person in Arizona a couple of years ago. Now the three wandering couples were in the same place at the same time, and we had big plans.

Gilded Flicker in the Ironwood Forest

We all left Tucson for the Ironwood Forest National Monument – about 25 miles out of the city – and set up camp. Thanksgiving was coming up, and even though it isn’t a holiday Greg and I normally celebrate, we thought it’d be fun to share some good food with our friends. After all, this would be the first Thanksgiving that Liesbet, who is Belgium born, would celebrate as an American citizen. But even better than that, two days later Liesbet would celebrate her 45th birthday and the publication of a project five years in the making, a memoir of her traveling and sailing life during her 30s.

Our camp in the Ironwood Forest National Monument

When Greg and I first set sail a few people told me we should write a book. I thought, OK, but we really hadn’t done anything yet. Any wannabe adventurer can buy a boat and think that they are going to be sailors – lots do. And then after we got on the water there seemed to be so many people doing it. And there were already so many people who’d already written books. I wasn’t sure what I could add to the canon of nautical memoirs.

And at first, I wondered this about Liesbet’s book too. But Liesbet has had a much more interesting traveling life than we have. Since falling in love with travel in her teens, she has hitchhiked in Europe, backpacked in Asia, traveled North America in a truck camper, and sailed through the Caribbean and the South Pacific. She has only lived a few years of her adult life in a traditional dwelling, has traveled in six out of the seven continents (planning to tick that last one, Antarctica, off her list in the coming years), and has visited over 60 countries.

Continue reading here.

Monthly Expenses – January 2021 & The Mexican Dentist

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

A new expense year has started and I can hardly believe the first month of that year is already long gone. Before I resume “normal programming” on Roaming About next Wednesday – about things other than Plunge and money updates, like… our travels – I will report on our first numbers of 2021.

Late afternoon at American Girl Mine Road, Imperial, CA

In January, Mark, Maya, and I lived full-time in our camper van Zesty, predominantly in the desert of southeastern California, where we celebrated New Year’s Eve with our friends from Ballena Blanca and The Scamper Squad and remained in their company a bit longer.

We had some big health and camper expenses. The first one was planned and the main reason we based ourselves in the area of Imperial, CA, for a couple of weeks: I needed to get a root canal done and decided to take care of this process in Los Algodones, Mexico, where, at US$630, the cost is three times less than my quote in Massachusetts.

Buying parts to build a new Lithium battery bank ourselves involved a huge cost as well, but still only ¼ of the price than if we were to buy the same amount of “power” readily outfitted (which we wouldn’t do). This is a project Mark will tackle in spring and that only became feasible because of our second stimulus checks of $600 a person. We dedicated this $1,200 of “extra money” to the dentist and the camper. Since we upgraded our tires in September, we finally bought a bigger spare tire (used) before crossing into Mexico as well.

Unfortunately, 2021 didn’t start great for me. I suffered from flu symptoms the first week of the year, despite receiving a flu shot in the fall (to avoid potentially burdening the health care system with a flu, when resources would be needed for Covid). Not only did this make me sick while I continued to work on promotion efforts for Plunge, it also involved getting a $75 Covid test done. Usually, I would just stick it out at home. But these are unusual times and we had been camping with our bubble of friends for a while – all of whom had dentist appointments – so answers were needed.

Line of cars waiting for Covid tests in Yuma, AZ

So, Zesty cued in line for two hours at a testing facility in Yuma, AZ (where we also did our shopping, as it was the closest town to our campsite, with cheaper prices than California) to order the “rapid test.” Negative! But because I showed Covid symptoms, the clinic wanted to send a sample out for lab testing as well. No problem. Except… a second swap had to be collected. I gingerly offered the nurse my other nostril for this second attack on my brain, eyes tearing up from discomfort. A few days later, I received another negative result. Dentist time!

The horrific swap – they stick this device VERY deep into your nostril.

My appointments with the Bernal Dental Group couldn’t have gone better! My experience was similar to that of our camping friends Duwan, Greg, Ellen, and Scott. The office was quiet and Covid precautions were taken seriously with a shoe bath, body spraying, temperature check, and mandatory use of hand sanitizer and masks. The team was professional, friendly, and prolific in English. Usually, they start new patients off with a dental exam, teeth cleaning, and X-ray session for US$100, presenting an extensive “to do” list. Because I had specific demands and recently saw a dentist in the US, I managed to skip this process and cost.

Crossing the border is easy. On the US side, you can choose between parking your car for US$6 a day in a giant lot or for free along the entrance road, before the “no parking” signs start. This second option requires a ten-minute walk, which was our preferred method.

Then, you stroll across the border – no paperwork needed – and enter Los Algodones town. All the dentist offices are pretty much located within a five-minute walk from there. During the pandemic, the border closes at 2pm local (California) time. Bernal Dental Group, however, is on Arizona time, which is an hour later. You want to get back with plenty of time to spare, because the line to cross into the US can be long and seems the worst between noon and closing. A passport is required to return. Dogs don’t need anything for this particular border crossing.

Line to cross back into the US. Luckily, everyone wears a mask. Except when drinking a beer.

Mark and Maya (and once our friends) joined me into Mexico to explore, buy cheap medicines, or sit in the park. My first visit involved the root canal procedure, installing a post, filling the gap, and making an impression for the crown. This took about two hours. During my second visit two days later, Dr. Aldo ground the ceramic crown to perfection and glued it into my mouth. Half an hour later, I was good to go. An hour later, I was ready for fish tacos at the town square. I was never in pain and am very pleased with the result. Recommended!

We camped for free all of January, I didn’t spend a dime on my writing, and the alcohol category was low. Our friends offered to split the cost for my Covid test, but we refused. Stubbornly, they contributed tequila and rum! The rest of our monthly expenses was pretty normal. We needed to fill our propane tank, inconveniently right after settling in the middle of nowhere for a welcome break from running errands, and our grocery bill still seems high. But, if you take the two giant expenses out, our total was well below average at under $800.

To see how our friends Duwan and Greg made out in January, click here. Their month looked pretty similar to ours. 🙂

January 2021 Overview:

Medical (dentist L: $630; Covid test L: $75; Albuterol M: $7):

Camper (battery: $504; diesel: $49; tire: $35; car wash: $10):

Groceries:

Utilities (phone: $35; propane: $19):

Health & Fitness (vitamins M):

Dog (food):

Laundry:

Alcohol

Dining out:

Gifts (B-day card niece):

Household (toilet brush):

Accommodation:

 

TOTAL:

 

$712

$613

$420

$54

$54

$39

$25

$24

$18

$5

$1

$0

———

$ 1,965

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

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