Note: For more info and photos of Cusco and the Sacred Valley, which Mark and I visited before, check out this post and this one.
(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)
Cusco
After our two-week adventure in Arequipa and Colca Canyon, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the tourist mecca of Cusco. We slept the first night for free on the edge of town to walk to the grocery store and stock up, and to have dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Teryaki.
Shrimp poke bowl at Teryaki
The following morning, the three of us walked to and through the two areas we had booked Airbnbs, to get a feel for them. We stumbled across a “market” along a busy street, where locals were selling puppies. It put a bad taste in our mouths. There are so many stray dogs that need help and a good home, yet, just like in the western world, people would rather buy animals than rescue them.
After our reconnaissance, we relocated higher up, to the Quinta Lala campground, where we met our American friends Heather and Rodney. The idea was to relax for one week, catch up on much needed sleep, and prepare for the visit of my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, on November 20th. Of course, that didn’t happen.
Mark was hired by our friends to install their new Starlink system and did his freelance job other times and I received translation project after translation project, leaving little time for fun and rest. Whenever we had a moment, we enjoyed the company of Heather and Rodney.
Homecooked dinner with Rodney and Heather at Quinta Lala
They had brought parts for us from the US, among which a new laptop, so we focused on fixing and installing a few things in – and on – Bella and getting Mark’s computer ready for use. It was all time consuming.
We also had to make sure Maya received enough exercise, did laundry by hand to save some money, met up with a Canadian friend (tour guide and climber Marie, who surprised us with maple syrup and maple butter), cleaned the interior of the car and camper, and walked into town a couple of times, taking a cab back up the hill. All the while, we needed to consider daily downpours, as the rainy season in Peru had started in earnest.
On November 20th, we packed up Bella, loaded some of our belongings and Maya into a taxi, and checked into our first Airbnb in downtown Cusco. We went shopping for food and drinks at the Plaza Vea supermarket and swung by the San Pedro local market, where we stumbled upon an interesting yet disgusting display of animal parts.
The three of us settled into the apartment and awaited the arrival of my family. Griet and Wim had traveled throughout the southern part of Peru for the previous two weeks, starting in Lima and ending in Cusco. We had lots of stories to share that evening!
Unlike our day-to-day life and travels, we had compiled a tight schedule of sightseeing and driving for their 16-day stay with us. Unfortunately, I started this “vacation” already worn out from the previous weeks and all our lodging selections only caused this feeling to get worse. I never slept well, due to noise at night, either outside or inside the buildings/rooms we rented. In addition, paid work kept arriving. Since this usually happens sporadically, I needed to jump on these rare chances to make money. I tried to work on assignments 6am-8am, before our communal breakfasts; Mark most often worked at night.
On our first full day with family, we explored the sights of Cusco and had lunch at our favorite local almuerzo (set lunch) spot. Because their service was running late, I kept watching the time on my phone, in order to make our reserved Free Walking Tour at 1pm. In all the commotion and while chatting away with my cousin on the walk to our meeting point, my smartphone was stolen from my unzipped pocket.
This awful event threw a loop in our plans and surely ruined the mood (but hopefully didn’t set the tone) of our family reunion. Griet and Wim went on the tour by themselves, while, Mark, Maya, and I spent the afternoon at the tourist police station, filing a report that wouldn’t lead to anything. I was resigned to using my old camera again to record our time and excursions (including Machu Picchu) with family.
Sacsaywaumán
I joined my cousin and her husband to the archeological site of Sacsaywaumán, where we bought three 10-day tourist tickets (boletos turistico). Since this site is close to the campground, Mark worked in our camper and Maya joined him.
In the afternoon, we took the camper off our truck and stored extra belongings inside Bella. We’d use the truck for our wanderings in the Sacred Valley and beyond. After sitting out a massive rain and hail storm, we returned to our apartment in town.
Pisac Archeological Site
The following day was a busy one! Our group took a cab to the campground to pick up Thirsty, the truck, and set out on a three-hour drive to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. Along the way, we stopped by the small sites of Q-enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay. Mark and I had visited these places already, so I just joined my cousin and her husband for the last one.
Our next stop was the Awana Kancha Museum, which consisted of live animals and weaving displays and history. We couldn’t take Maya inside, so Mark and I took turns looking at the exhibits.
The main attraction and activity of the day was Pisac. Mark dropped the three Belgians off at the archeological site, where we explored the main section, before we set out on a strenuous multiple-hour downhill hike to the town. Rain threatened again, but we decided to first climb to the top of the ruins, before embarking on the steep descent.
Ollantaytambo
We met Mark and Maya at a café in town for a quick bite, before continuing our afternoon journey towards cute Ollantaytambo, where we had booked hotel rooms for three nights. We strolled through the historic downtown and went out for a nice dinner, before another sleepless night. The following day, we moved to the sister location of our hotel, which was a bit more peaceful.
Mark joined my family to the main archeological site, while it was my turn to work the morning away. In the afternoon, we explored a couple of lesser-known ruins, one of which didn’t allow dogs. I had climbed hundreds of steps before getting whistled at and needing to return downhill with Maya, to wait for the others. Oh well!
On our last day in Ollantaytambo, we had planned a day trip to a church in a cave and a waterfall, but it rained all night and throughout the day. This allowed each of us to catch up on internet and other chores and communications – and spend the afternoon at the chilly Cerveceria Del Valle Sagrado, the area’s well-known brewery. Since Wim is an accomplished beer brewer in Belgium, visits like these interest him. And Mark. Griet and I are the only Belgians who don’t drink beer. ????
Lunch and drinks at the Valle Sagrado Brewery
Aguas Calientes
Then, it was time for the highlight of this trip: Machu Picchu. Since it is not easy, straightforward, or affordable to visit this Wonder of the World, we needed three days for the journey and the actual visit. Base camp is the touristy town of Aguas Calientes, which can only be reached by foot or train. We planned on driving for four hours, leaving the car at a place called Hidroelectrica, and walking the three hours to Aguas Calientes, all in one day. Our approach did not go according to plan…
First, the gate to the paid parking lot of Ollantaytambo was locked when we wanted to leave (7:30am); we had a long and arduous day ahead. We started the drive at 8am and bounced on the windy, washboard roads for three hours. Mark had to stop frequently, so Griet and I – both extremely car sick – could heave and catch our breaths.
Precarious drive to Santa Teresa via Santa Maria
After an hour of driving through road construction, we arrived in the small town of Santa Teresa, where we walked to a hotel to book two rooms for when we returned from Aguas Calientes, which was portrayed as a zoo and a place you didn’t want to stay too long. We needed to make sure, in person, that dogs were allowed here. No problem!
The last part of this bumpy trip would have us cross a river and reach Hidroelectrica for the hike. But, no such luck. A landslide had blocked the road and another bridge was washed out. Our car could NOT reach Hidroelectrica. It took a while to figure out what was going on, based on Spanish reports. And, without knowing how to get there, panic arrived, since my family had early-morning tickets for Machu Picchu the following day.
More driving and investigating led us to the solution for this logistical problem: people and their gear were being hauled over the foaming river on a cable system, normally utilized to carry goods across. How on earth were we going to lift and transport Maya that way? We discovered this was not a safe place to leave the car and considered our options. Griet and Wim preferred to make this journey together, no matter how late we would arrive in Aguas Calientes…
So, the five of us returned to Santa Teresa, were declined a parking spot in front of the police station, realized there were no secure parking lots, and left our Thirsty parked alongside the main square, hoping everything would be fine in three days. Then, we took a minivan to the “cable car,” waited in line (sunny and hot at this lower elevation), and took turns being pulled across the roaring river. It was a scene to remember – and quite precarious.
On the other side of the river, overpriced colectivos waited to bring passengers to Hidroelectrica, the end of the road. We had no bargain power and sucked it up, being exhausted before even starting our 7.5-mile hike along the train tracks.
We all persevered and slogged for three-and-a-half hours along the slightly upwards trail and through beautiful scenery, giving a wide berth to a couple of passing trains. We weren’t able to enjoy the walk much as we needed to keep going to beat nightfall and everyone was tired.
Reaching the bottom of Aguas Calientes at nightfall
Once in Aguas Calientes, at 6pm, darkness set in and we faced a long climb towards the artificial town and our hotel, finishing with steep steps in the commercial district, and being told our room was located on the seventh floor. Yes, it felt good to finally arrive!
Construction and demolition work next door would not bring much peace at this hotel, though. It should also be noted that the humid room had a mildew scent, no mirror above the sink, and we could see – and smell – the bathroom next door through an opening above the wall between rooms!
Machu Picchu
The following morning, Griet and Wim left the room at 4:30am for an early breakfast, bus ride up the mountain, and visit to Machu Picchu. We’d follow suit the next day, on November 28th, my birthday, while they watched Maya. This day would become the culmination of much stress and numerous attempts to get an “extension” in Peru, to be able to meet up with my family and experience one of the Seven Wonders of the World with our own eyes. Would it be worthwhile? Was the MP hype granted?
It rained the entire evening and night. We had no expectations about this highly-acclaimed site, but our hopes deflated when hearing the rain all night long. An early start followed, with breakfast at the hotel at 5am and walking Maya to offer her a potty break and exercise. It was dry outside!
Then, Mark and I followed the hairpin roads up by bus. We had obtained the last seats, so I sat in the back row, fighting motion sickness. We entered the site and climbed to the first viewpoint. The fog cleared… and there it was: majestic Machu Picchu!
The mist and clouds came and went, offering us a mystical and mythical perspective of this world-renowned archeological site. Grazing llamas added to the scene. We stood there, watching, contemplating, and photographing for half an hour. We’d been lucky with the weather.
Around 7am, we climbed to the Inca Bridge, which was visible from afar and not that special, really. Why had the Incas built a bridge here, while everywhere else they managed to carve paths out of the cliffs? We will never know.
Inca Bridge
The two of us returned to the miradors and took in the “million-dollar view” for just a bit longer, before descending the mountain towards the actual structures and features that make up this site.
We had booked tickets for Circuit 1 & 2 (+ Inca Bridge), allowing us access to the most incredible parts of Machu Picchu. While our time of arrival stated between 6am-7am, nobody kicked us out. We recommend this first slot, to avoid the crowds arriving by train at 10am and to allow plenty of opportunity to wait until the fog clears; clouds are a common occurrence during the rainy season.
I thoroughly enjoyed strolling past the renovated structures and taking in the lush surroundings for another hour, before we finished our walking tour. Mark took the steep steps down the mountain, while I waited forever for an empty bus to show up and take me back down to Aguas Calientes.
I then climbed to our hotel, to retrieve Maya, my family, and the luggage. Our group met Mark near the train tracks for a small lunch of empanadas, and a three-hour hike back to Hidroelectrica. Our slightly downhill progress along the tracks was a bit more pleasant this time, especially since Mark carried the backpack!
Walking back from Aguas Calientes along the tracks
Santa Teresa
The landslide had been cleared upon our arrival, so we managed to return to Santa Teresa with only one minivan. Our truck looked good, other than scribbles from kids and teenagers on the dusty sides. Our hotel rooms turned out to be the worst ones of the entire trip (the bathroom had flaky hot water from a “suicide shower” – a contraption with electrical wires, no shower curtain, no toilet seat, no space for our knees, and no dry spot for the toilet paper), and the run-down town had no good options for drinks or dinner, but we did finish my birthday off with a decent meal and cocktails.
After another short and noisy night, the long, bumpy, and nauseous ride back to Ollantaytambo followed the next morning. Once at our hotel there, I needed to rest and catch up on a few things. Napping was out of the question due to screaming kids and other noise in the building. I failed to feel better hours later, so the gourmet dinner I had looked forward to for many weeks (we sourced this restaurant of choice during a previous visit to Ollantaytambo) was not meant to be. I’d have my delayed gastronomical birthday dinner back in Cusco.
Naupa Iglesia & Catarata de Perolniyoc
Our schedule was tight, so we hit the road again the following day; another long journey. On the multiple-hour drive back to Cusco, we stopped at an Inca “church” in a cave and a trail to a waterfall. Since this would be a strenuous climb, Griet and I stayed behind, strolling through the valley instead.
We managed to make a favorite and affordable buffet lunch stop of ours in Urubamba, before reaching the Maras salt flats (Maya couldn’t enter) and the archeological site of Moray. A pretty country drive brought us back to our final destination, where we needed to fill the truck with gasoline and pick up more gear at the campground.
Back in Cusco
After another heavy rainstorm, our group checked into our last lodging: a week-long Airbnb stay in a peaceful location near the San Blas neighborhood of Cusco. I had looked forward to this more relaxed time in one place. The apartment, however, was cold, with an inadequate kitchen and showers and neighbors upstairs, who were loud during the pre-dawn hours. Mark and I kept our work schedules and I still made it a point to practice Spanish on DuoLingo each evening, in addition to tracking our expenses and outings.
During this last week with my family, we had fun times as well, of course, especially in the evenings, when we enjoyed cocktails at home and dinners out together. The culinary scene and choice of excellent restaurants in Cusco is on par with Lima, the food capital of Peru.
Cusco & Surroundings East
Tipón Archeological Site
On the last day of our tourist tickets, Mark, Maya, Griet, Wim, and I braved the Cusco traffic and drivers in our truck to visit the last archeological sites on our list. Tipón was a relatively quick visit and offered ruins, cool Inca steps, and water features. Mark and Maya waited in the parking lot.
Pikillacta Archeological Site
I thought Pikillacta would be small. On the contrary. After being able to drive inside the outer walls, where my loved ones could sit in the shade, us Belgians discovered a crumbled Wari city stretching over a massive area. We explored part of the old pre-Inca pathways framed by tall walls and chatted with one of the workers, responsible for the renovation of the site. As often in Peru, none of the sites we visited had information signs and their spelling differed.
Still in Cusco
On the drive home, we stopped by the campground to drop off the truck. The wooden platform in its bed was getting warped by all the rain and we still had water in the ceiling of our camper, something we didn’t manage to solve before my family arrived. We put a tarp over the bed of our truck and Mark decided to climb up to the campground the following days to deal with our ceiling.
Maya and I joined my cousin and her husband into the historic center of Cusco a couple of times, and I decided to wash all our clothes and linen, including Maya’s, in the washing machine at the Airbnb. I also suffered from intestinal issues. Were we eating out too much?
In the meantime, our good friends Sheri and Jeff returned to Cusco from Canada. It was awesome to see and hug them again after eight months! They brought more packages for us – and a few surprises… The idea was to prep our campers and hit the road together after my family left.
When Griet and Wim went on a long daytrip to Pallcoyo – Three Colored Mountains – Mark, Maya, and I drove into town to get security film added to our truck’s side windows. Repeated reports from overlanders getting their cars broken into in Chile caused us to take this precaution. Because I was feeling too crappy for more errands, we took our truck to the carwash another time.
On our last day with family, the five of us went for a cool hike in the hills around Cusco. We explored “hidden” caves, trails, and unexcavated Inca ruins, and Mark surprised me with a new smartphone (arranged by Sheri and Jeff). Maya had a good time as well; a better birthday for her than the actual one the day prior. A massive rain and hail storm had us return to the campground soaking wet.
That evening, we finally went out for my delayed birthday dinner, at Cusco’s #1 restaurant, KusyKay. It turned into a fantastic evening, with great company, yummy drinks, and fabulous food. We can’t recommend this place enough!
After another short night and sending Griet and Wim off to the airport on December 6th, the three of us had a day of errands (including a carwash and loading the camper back on the truck at Quinta Lala) instead of my wished for “quiet day at the Airbnb,” since we had one more night there. I finished up my laundry tasks and we had a lovely dinner out with Sheri and Jeff.
Then, it was time to wrap up our stay in Cusco and – slowly – head to the border with Bolivia. But first, there were more projects, socializing, and job assignments to attend to. My continued exhausted state and its toll on my body needed to be taken care of as well. Yet, we were more than ready to leave Peru after five months, two of which in the Cusco area!
Moved to a quieter spot in the campground
Next up: Our yearly expense report for 2023
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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January 20, 2024 at 15:21
You’ve got far more patience than me, Liesbet. As a fellow car sick sufferer, I empathize. Machu Picchu is pretty spectacular though.
January 21, 2024 at 12:07
Hi Pete,
As you might have gathered, I am a very determined (some might call it stubborn) person, who hates to miss out on things because of my body’s protests. 🙂 Luckily, sea sickness and car sickness are temporary inconveniences, like altitude sickness. You stop driving or sailing for a bit (or jump on shore), or you move to lower elevations, and the symptoms disappear. There is a solution.
My migraines, on the other hand, seem to last for many hours and make me feel like I’m going to die. So, while I can handle nausea pretty well – just puke and get it over with – the pain and discomfort from my migraines is something I should try to avoid.
January 20, 2024 at 16:06
Was Machu Picchu worth it? What an adventure to get there. Maya is quite the trooper.
I hate that is was so exhausting and that your accommodations weren’t good. We stayed in a campground in Mexico with a dodgy shower set up. We had to flip a switch above the shower for the hot water and were told we needed to be careful not to be shocked. But it was a good shower and a great campground and the warning was nice.
I wonder if those puppies were bred or if they are just street puppies people gathered up to sell?
All the ruins look amazing. And the food, and good company!
January 21, 2024 at 12:13
Hi Duwan,
Yes! Machu Picchu is worth it. 🙂 It’s one of those “lifetime experiences” people rave about that is actually worth the hype. To be honest, I think the difficulty of getting there is part of the charm. On hindsight.
Most people take the train from Ollantaytambo, which is pricey and you still have to get to that town first as well. There used to be trains from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, but for some reason (monopolies of the bus companies bringing people to Ollantaytambo?) that service has been paused or cancelled. We do know there are freight trains on that route, so you gotta wonder…
We are pretty sure those puppies were bred, which made our hearts bleed. So many helpless puppies and dogs in Peru already…
The biggest annoyance to us about those accommodations not working out quite well is that we have a perfectly comfortable camper (for which we paid storage anyway) – that was parked in a good campground with hot, pressurized showers, … – yet, we paid all that money for lodgings that were less than adequate. We have learned our lesson: next time we receive visitors, they will stay in hotels/Airbnbs and we will stay in our own home. 🙂
January 20, 2024 at 16:28
You certainly went through a lot to get there, but Machu Picchu looks worth it. I am sure that Having that experience with family was special.
January 21, 2024 at 12:15
Hi Suzanne,
We are very happy to have gone through the effort and expense to visit Machu Picchu – it is surely a highlight of Peru, the world, and our travels. Thinking about you and Malcolm. <3
January 20, 2024 at 17:14
Whew! I’m exhausted just reading about your outings. I had no idea it was so difficult to see some of those sites. I do hope you eventually got to rest and recuperate.
January 21, 2024 at 12:18
Hi Leslie,
Yeah, this was a super long post and I sure hope I can write and crank out the next ones a bit quicker, making them easier reads as well. But, I’m still far behind with my blogs… Sigh.
Mark and I are always so darn busy. I sometimes don’t understand how it keeps happening, especially since we don’t have a time frame for our travels. A lot always happens – and goes wrong. It’s part of this lifestyle, especially in under-developed nations.
January has been easier on us, because we have sat still for the first three weeks, running a campground. Those days are coming to an end, though, and we will hit the road again, somewhat refreshed, this week.
January 20, 2024 at 19:27
OK, that Shrimp Poke at Teriyaki has almost convinced me to go down to Cusco. ???? Did you ever find out what someone does with a cow snout? Cook something with it? Use it to scare spirits away? I am at a loss. So sorry to hear about your iPhone being stolen. I know how that feels because just a few months ago in Memphis, our truck was broken into where Carmen’s purse was stolen, our $1600 Sony camera, $1,000 of hidden (or so I thought) emergency cash and a $200 truck key FOB. Ouch!!!! If I count correctly, you had ALOT of rainy days that caused you to change plans. As I sit here writing this, it is 34 degrees outside and is expected to get down to 20 tonight with possible rain. We are on the gulf coast in southern Alabama and this is very unusual. I feel your pain. I would love to hang out at Cerveceria Del Valle Sagrado. I ❤️????. What a story about getting to Machu Picchu. The VIDEO!!!! You are so much braver than I am. And the 3 ½ hour hike. Oh man! Then the 7th floor. As I have said so many times reading your adventures… you just can’t make up this shit. By the way Happy belated birthday! Great photos of Machu Picchu. Amazing! Glad the truck did not experience any damage or theft. I cannot believe your hotel rooms in Santa Teresa. Again, reality is so much more fascinating than fiction. Glad to hear ending back in Cusco was a good experience. Jim
January 21, 2024 at 12:27
Hello Jim,
Thank you for taking the time to read through my extensive post and leaving such a detailed and thoughtful comment.
I’m so sorry that your car got broken into! That really sucks. And, those thieves seem to be smart, or at least very professional, if they found hidden money and treasures. Yikes. It’s such an awful feeling of being violated.
We recently had security film installed on our truck windows. Maybe that’s something you could look into as well? It makes it harder for banditos to break through the windows. The window still breaks and needs replacing, but nobody should be able to access anything in the car… There are some interesting YouTube videos about that. Search for “3M security film”.
I had a feeling that you and Carmen would appreciate the wonderful dining experiences we had in Cusco. Here in La Paz, Bolivia, we have actually been splurging with gastronomical feasts in high-end restaurants. But that is for a future blog post. 🙂
I think they use the cow snouts to make soup. I can really not think of anything else to do with those.
I’m glad you still enjoy reading about our adventures – yep, reality is much crazier than fiction… When you overland in South America anyway, haha. Stay warm and hugs to you both!
January 20, 2024 at 20:13
What an adventure, Liesbet! Love that you both make money as you travel–Mark installing Skynet and you on translations. How awful about the phone. I worry about stolen smart phones because so much is on them anymore, but I bet you wiped it quickly and now just need a new one. Rest up!
January 21, 2024 at 12:33
Hi Jacqui,
Making money on the road is quite challenging. We’ve often considered returning to our home countries for a bit, make a chunk of money, and then enjoy traveling fulltime again with all its joy and lack of stress and job commitments. Logistically, that would be a hassle, though, and we’d need to pay for accommodation and/or utilities in the US or Belgium, which would then eat into our earnings… So, we will stick to the travel-work situation. 🙂
I did get a new smartphone by now, but I had mixed feelings about it. Luckily, I mainly use the phone as a camera, so the worst part – apart from losing the money – is losing photos that haven’t been backed up yet.
Resting right now. Kind of. 🙂
January 20, 2024 at 20:49
I know how much you crave rest and an easier schedule, but I believe your Belgian family and others appreciated your investment in time and effort. You often mention noisy nights and high prices; I hope some day you can just relax and not worry about money or a tight schedule. I can tell you had a great time celebrating birthdays—yours and Mays’s—though.
Thanks for the videos, especially the cable system adventure and of course the highly touted Machu Picchu. I’m with Jacqui: get some rest!
January 21, 2024 at 13:19
Hi Marian,
The way we live and earn peanuts, I doubt we will ever reach a position in which we won’t have to “worry” about money. Thing is, though, even if we would be better off, I think we’d still be careful with our expenditures. After decades of living this way, it is seriously engrained to be frugal. 🙂
Mark, Maya, and I are finishing up a month of campground hosting in La Paz, Bolivia, so life has been easier, less challenging, and cheaper in January!
January 20, 2024 at 23:14
Hi, Liesbet – I am breathless reading about this incredible adventure. I am so sorry to hear about your smartphone being stolen. Machu Picchu looks absolutely amazing. I sooooo want to go there!
January 21, 2024 at 13:23
Hi Donna!
I hope you and Richard get to visit Machu Picchu one day. And, if you ever go to Peru, shoot me a message as – after five months in that country – we surely have a good feel for what’s worth checking out and what’s not.
One of the reasons I wrote this extensive blog was to weave the living factors into the traveling and touristy factors. Because this is our lifestyle, we always have so much going on. Sometimes, I wish we could just enjoy the sightseeing and the travels (or visitors), but then we’d have to find a normal job for a while first! No, thank you! 🙂
January 21, 2024 at 12:27
Wow ???? Every time I read another paragraph, frought with struggles, loss, difficulty, impossibility…I’d think….nope, I couldn’t do that. Then, the breathtaking photos, yep, that would make it all worth it. Thanks for a wonderful, enjoyable post! Happy Birthday and best to all of you!
January 21, 2024 at 13:26
Hi Carol,
Isn’t it nice sometimes to just be an armchair traveler? 🙂
You know, I always thought that my book, Plunge, would have all the challenges, ups, and downs one could have in a decade, but I have to admit that this last year and a half on the road has given me many situations to expand and reflect on! It must be related to the lifestyle we have chosen!!!
Thank you for the wishes and I’m glad you enjoyed the stories and the photos.
January 21, 2024 at 13:12
Hi Liesbet, I hope you’re feeling much better. Machu Picchu is hard to get to but well worth it IMHO. If it’s more easily accessible, I think it will loose some of its magic. Thank you for sharing your story and photos.
January 21, 2024 at 13:29
Hi Natalie,
You are so correct about your assessment of Machu Picchu. The reason it has stayed hidden until the 1920s was because of its inaccessibility and keeping it that way is part of the charm and the “reward” of the visit. And of the magic that is revealed at the end of the journey. Right now, there aren’t even trains from Cusco to Aguas Calientes anymore, so the trip has become more time consuming and tiresome for all the people, even when they take the train.
January 21, 2024 at 15:18
OMG, Liesbet! That is both terrifying and magnificent all at one. Machu Picchu is still on my list of places to go, but I’m not sure I have the energy any more.
January 22, 2024 at 09:24
Hi Anabel,
You sum parts of our lifestyle up so well: terrifying and magnificent. It’s not often terrifying, though. I like to use the words challenging and exciting. 🙂
I hope you do make it to Machu Picchu one day. Most tourists – of all ages – take the train. There used to be a route from Cusco all the way to Aguas Calientes and then you take a bus up the mountain for MP. There are quite a few stairs to get up to the viewpoints.
Now, you have to take a bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo and then a train to Aguas Calientes. Or, the easiest way is to book a one-day tour from Cusco and then everything is arranged and you even have a guide on site. But, if the weather is bad, you’ll have to keep moving and might miss the epic view.
January 22, 2024 at 10:43
Maybe someday! We certainly wouldn’t hike the trail which we thought about maybe 20+ years ago, then did something else instead. A missed opportunity.
January 25, 2024 at 15:16
Yes, the multiple-day hikes to Machu Picchu are tough – the Inca Trail and the Salkantay Trail – and at the end, most hikers take the bus up to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes, because they are too tired to climb all the way. Driving and walking along the train tracks, or taking the train is much easier. 🙂
January 21, 2024 at 16:35
Hi Liesbet! This adventure sounded EXTREMELY challenging but those photos of Machu Picchu are stuff that travelogues are made of. Bravo! And it sounds like your sister and her husband are as tough as you and Mark. Glad you “survived” Peru and look forward to hearing about your days ahead. ~Kathy
January 22, 2024 at 09:28
Hi Kathy,
My cousin and her husband are good sports and super flexible and relaxed. They visited us many time when we were sailing and they are the perfect guests, up for pretty much everything. 🙂 I just wished we weren’t so busy. Every time they come, I hope to carve out time, but something always gets in the way, usually work related and challenging logistics. That’s why we are more relaxed ourselves when we visit them in Belgium.
Yes, we are happy to have left Peru. Despite its epic scenery, it was our least favorite country in South America so far. Let’s see what Bolivia brings.
January 22, 2024 at 16:58
Wow, what a grueling experience this trip has been for you! I can relate to your motion-sickness – I have the same problem unless I’m in the front seat of the vehicle. That’s enough to spoil any trip for me!
I might have a guess as to the purpose of the Inca Bridge: Maybe it was a ‘security feature’. If attackers were coming up the path, the bridge deck could be removed or destroyed, leaving no way past. (Or maybe I just have a vivid imagination.) 😉
January 25, 2024 at 15:20
Hi Diane,
I’ve been doing better with the car sickness, since I sit in the front passenger seat. But, for some reason, when the camper (weight) is off the truck and we just drive around with the vehicle, the ride gets much bumpier and faster. This causes the car sickness to be really bad, despite me sitting in the front. Maybe when I drive it’s better, but that would be super scary on these roads!
I like your guess about the reason for the Inca Bridge. You might be right! How can we find out? So little is known about the Inca civilization. Even in current times!
January 22, 2024 at 20:23
Just wow! Great documenting of your wild trip up the mountains. I’m glad you had a fantastic birthday dinner after all that! Happy Birthday! Hugs xxx
January 25, 2024 at 15:23
Hi Debby,
Life is quite adventurous these months. 🙂 Better than sitting still in the same place, I assume… Although we were ready for a break from the road after those months in Peru (and took it), we are now stuck in La Paz, Bolivia, because the major roads are blocked by protesters and we can’t drive anywhere. Always something…
January 25, 2024 at 12:08
An amazing account of your journeys. You two WORK hard and PLAY hard (play being not quite the right word – ADVENTURE hard?). As always, I’m so impressed with the challenges you walk/drive/work through to reach your destinations to see these spectacular sites. Me? I get so motion sick that it can take many hours to (or an entire day) to recover. I’m a wimp and I give you a huge “well-done!” hug.
January 25, 2024 at 15:34
Hi Pam,
So much has been happening (again) the last few months… I have to admit that this lifestyle can get a bit too hard and challenging at times. But, then we need to recognize that and take a break, like we recently did in La Paz, Bolivia. Except, now we are stuck here because the roads are blocked by protesters and we can’t get going again… 🙁
Sorry to read that your motion sickness is bad. There was one day in Peru, where I didn’t recover for an entire day as well, which brought my special dinner in jeopardy. So, I guess this sometimes happens to me as well. Maybe as I get older, recovery takes longer? There’s nothing quite as awful as motion sickness, though. Apart from major migraines…
Thank you for the hug! I am cherishing it. 🙂
January 25, 2024 at 20:30
Hi Liesbet, Different friends have gone to Machu Picchu and everyone has a unique story. As you describe well, ‘worth the hype.’ The maple syrup and maple butter made me smile…funny what is associated with Canada. I cannot imagine how stressful having your smartphone stolen.
Your lives are always an adventure and this was definitely a mixed bag. Thank you for sharing an extensive and comprehensive post. The photos are spectacular and enticing!
January 26, 2024 at 08:20
Hello Erica,
Thank you for swinging by and leaving a comment. I haven’t met anyone who didn’t enjoy their Machu Picchu visit, especially when the viewpoints offer a clear vista of the site. Yet, nobody really mentions how difficult it is to get to. Except overlanders. 🙂
Traveling this continent by our own means/wheels is so very different than the experience fly-in tourists have. It’s definitely more challenging and adventurous!
January 31, 2024 at 06:58
Is that the second phone you had stolen, Liesbet? I remember reading in a recent post that you had your phone stolen. If it was, I’m sorry it happened again, but glad to hear you got a new one as a gift.
Just reading this post made me think how on-the-go you guys are. You never seem to have five minutes to yourselves. And what with stolen phones, roadblocks, horrible weather and sleepless nights because of noise, it’s a no wonder you were not feeling very well.
But I’m delighted you got to see Machu Picchu, even if it was tough getting there. The photography is amazing.
Can I ask about attitudes towards gay people there as I saw the rainbow flag in one of your photos (the one with the dog looking out of the window). I just wondered if Peru was a place where being gay is seen as a crime.
February 3, 2024 at 16:58
Hi Hugh,
No, luckily, I only had one phone stolen. I mentioned the phone issue before, during a monthly expense report. Those blogs are more up to date than my other blogs, as I create then right after each month, and having it stolen had to do with extra costs. I am/was two months behind with our adventure blogs.
You are so correct about us being extremely busy on the road, what with lots of driving, sightseeing, running errands, fixing things, taking care of Maya, working, and keeping our virtual lives going. Every day. But, when you read my latest blog, you will see that we finally took a little break. 🙂
I’m glad you’re asking me about the “rainbow flag.” I’m putting it between quotes, because, despite it looking exactly like the Rainbow Flag you and I know, the flag actually has a different meaning here. It is the flag of the Quechua and Inca (indigenous) people and has nothing to do with gay and lesbians. Whenever you see that flag down here, in the Andes Mountain region, it is showing pride for their own culture.
The flag of Cusco in Peru is similar as well: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_Cusco
That being said, I’m pretty sure in big cities like Lima and Cusco, gay people are respected and not frowned upon. In the smaller villages, showing open gay behavior might raise eyebrows.
February 9, 2024 at 07:02
Glad to hear it was just the one phone, and not two, that were stolen Liesbet.
And thanks for the information about the rainbow flag. It’s good to read what it is being used for. ‘Pride’ and ‘respect for each other is what it is all about.
February 10, 2024 at 14:38
Hear, hear, Hugh! If only respect was a global virtue…