When we left Rio de Janeiro, the idea was to meander up the coast and eventually make it to the state of Bahia to reconsider our route and plans.
Since our camper is for sale, we had to be flexible. The issue with Brazil is that it is huge! And because, as Americans in an American vehicle, Venezuela is off limits for safety reasons, we couldn’t drive the northern loop back to Colombia. This meant that wherever we drove in Brazil, we would have to backtrack that distance south in order to leave. There are no (decent) roads in the Amazon.
Brazil in South America
Since Niteroi didn’t work out for us, we needed a plan B, namely driving north to Cabo Frio and camping there. We had a horrible day on the road with tons of (unmarked and camouflaged) speed bumps, narrow and busy lanes, hot weather, and three potential camp spots that didn’t work out, because of new rules against campers or the wind being too strong, whipping up seawater.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
São Pedro da Aldeia
Eventually, we settled in a quiet waterfront suburb of São Pedro da Aldeia, on the south side of the giant saltwater lagoon. The wind was less strong, the people were friendly, and our backyard was grassy with palm trees and nice views.
Despite being parked close to the dirt road with through traffic, we enjoyed our stay and walks with Maya and even returned from Cabo Frio once the wind picked up again.
Cabo Frio
Close-up Cabo Frio
We had hoped for a pleasant week of beach camping in Cabo Frio, but it was not meant to be. This area is notorious for its strong winds. The three of us did manage to snatch a few nights and our new Australian friend Larry joined us. We’d seen him in Rio as well, but due to my work assignment we hadn’t had time to hang out with him.
In Cabo Frio, we went for beach walks and a stroll into the dunes. Across from our parking spot was a small freshwater lagoon, which was perfect for doggie rinse-offs after sandy and salty outings. The weather was heating up a lot.
Arraial do Cabo
The four of us (including Maya) organized an Uber from Cabo Frio to the most popular and stunning beach of Arraial do Cabo. Except, the driver could only drop us off 4km away from the praia – only authorized cabs and vehicles were allowed past this point – so we faced a steep, hot, and sweaty walk to cross the hills towards the beach.
Once there, a refreshing dip in the icy waters followed for me and Maya, who seemed to be tolerated on leash, despite the information we had read beforehand about dogs not being allowed on the sand and in the water.
Larry, sweet and considerate as he is, rented three beach chairs and a parasol to ease my discomfort and turn this day into a real holiday! It was the first time for all of us (in fifty years) to experience a beach rental and touristy beach time, like most other visitors.
Relaxing on the beach
(Photo courtesy of Larry Tofler)
For the next couple of hours, we ordered snacks, drank heaps of water, chatted, watched the scene, and relaxed. An industrious boy “snagged us” with bracelets for a return trip by motorboat. The dog could go for free. No more climbing and sweating this way!
Since we weren’t in a hurry and my migraine stayed at bay thanks to the liters of water I gulped, we prolonged our vacation day with more treats in town, finally eating our very first (and, unfortunately, last) açai bowl. Delicious! Larry and we kept treating each other back and forth.
It turned out to be a super day and made us realize we really should have fun and splurge more often. We are not on a vacation – overlanding is our life – but that doesn’t mean it has to be all work, research, and chores with no play. 🙂
The Airport of Cabo Frio
And that’s when Mark suggested I ought to start my extension process to stay another 90 days in Brazil, which was not an issue for him as an American. I’d entered the country on my Belgian passport, because Belgians don’t need an $80 visa like Americans, and I’d heard many accounts of other Europeans obtaining extensions after their initial 90 days. I had about two weeks left on my entry stamp at that point.
Well, after two hours of trying to talk and reason with the immigration officers at the Cabo Frio airport, it became apparent, for the first time, that I might be out of luck. Belgians can only visit Brazil for 90 days every 180 days, just like Brazilians can in the Schengen countries of Europe. Darn.
We felt like we still had two options: try the extension plea in another, less touristy office (Dutch friends of ours succeeded on their second attempt) or use the loophole we’d also heard about: overstay one day, pay the $20 fee, and receive 60 days to leave the country (and sightsee in the meantime). We’d try the more official way when driving inland the following week.
Búzios
Realizing my time might be running out in Brazil, we had to speed up a bit. Búzios had been on our wishlist; many locals had raved to us about it and the place wasn’t much of a detour. We spent two nights close to the downtown and beach area and were joined by Larry for one of them. We really liked our camping spot by a peaceful pond and – of course – wished we could have stayed longer.
Búzios was “discovered” by French actress Brigitte Bardot and, despite us thinking the place might be overrated and swamped, we actually liked the vibe and the town a lot. It would make a great vacation destination.
The downtown area is relatively cute and very walkable, with beaches everywhere! And Maya was allowed on them. We strolled along the sands on our only full day and climbed a trail over a hill to see the bays on the other side.
We enjoyed an excellent lunch at Maria Maria based on Larry’s recommendation. We have to admit it’s one of the few places in Brazil where we thought the food was tasty, healthy, and homemade.
In the afternoon, the heat increased again as we strolled the boardwalk and reached the opposite end of the bay. A historic area with lots of trees, flowers, and a church with a statue of Mother Teresa greeted us there.
Church and Mother Teresa statue
Across every hill awaited another beach. I read there are seventeen in the Búzios area. But the sun and our dwindling energy sent us home mid-afternoon.
We returned to the waterfront for drinks and dinner, which concluded our short-cut beach time in Brazil. On top of that, my photo files were corrupted on my ancient computer when I moved them over from my phone. The only photos left are the ones I retrieved from a Facebook post.
Ouro Preto
Mark and I had two more must-do cities in mind. They are located in the state of Minas Gerais, a huge detour on our route to leave the country in Paraguay. We found ourselves driving north for two days to reach Ouro Preto with a stop in the bustling city of Juiz de Fora, where we spent the night at a noisy truck stop and tried – in vain again – to obtain that 90-day visitor extension for me.
After all the driving, we found a really nice camping spot south of Ouro Preto, mostly in nature. Apart from a couple doing sunset shoots in the hills, we were alone. It was the perfect space to do another oil change, the downside being me having to travel with 7 liters of used oil and the resulting trash at my feet for many more hours of driving to leave the area.
Ouro Preto is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a fascinating city from colonial times. The houses in the center are colorful and picturesque. The churches, parks, and squares are plentiful and we even stumbled across a piece of nature and quiet in the middle of the city.
The streets of Ouro Preto are steep and narrow, which we knew ahead of time. We found a perfect parking spot next to a church on a hill, where we could have spent the night, but we preferred the natural area. It promised better sleep. Except when the wind picked up so much that the camper rocked all night and Maya was antsy and bothersome.
Tiradentes
Our last highlight in Brazil was this unassuming colonial town of Tiradentes, which isn’t on the radar of many land travelers. We snatched a prime camping spot upon arrival: on the shady side of a small park, in the midst of the train action, but away from the town’s buzz and traffic.
Tiradentes is the arrival – or departure – point of an old steam train, which puts it on the tourist list. We didn’t quite realize the implications of this until we returned from a walk in the cute town at the exact time the unique train arrived. How cool to witness it pass by and be hand-turned for its return journey!
The historic town itself was a joy to explore. The streets were less steep than in Ouro Preto, the vibe more relaxed, and everywhere was easily walkable, providing picture-perfect scenes, including the horse-drawn carriages.
We only stayed one night to account for a week on the road, being prepared for possible delays. Yes, we would have loved to spend more time in Tiradentes; it quickly became our favorite town in Brazil.
Leaving Brazil
We had decided to leave the country for a few reasons and prepared for the long haul of 1,000 miles (1,600km) to Foz do Iguaçu at the border with Paraguay, planning to cross into Ciudad del Este, familiar terrain. Why were we ready to leave Brazil after barely three months, almost half of that sitting still because Mark left to the US and I had a big translation project?
Last Brazilian destinations
Worry: We didn’t feel 100% comfortable going the “overstay route.” What if they’d deny me, 1,000 miles from the closest border? Principle: if they don’t want me in the country to spend my tourist dollars, I’d rather leave. The roads and the drivers: Brazil has been extremely stressful each time we hit the narrow roads without shoulders but packed with aggressive drivers, huge semi-trucks, low, overhanging tree branches (trees are not trimmed here) and electrical wires, and hundreds of hidden speed bumps.
And the realization that Brazil is not a good place to sell our camper. Most overland travelers skip the country entirely; others only touch the surface, driving to Rio and turning back. Paraguay would be a better, more central location for travelers wanting to start their overland adventure in South America. In our truck camper.
The drive to the Paraguayan border was not very exciting. It had the usual toll roads, patched-up secondary roads, thousands of semi-trucks, camouflaged speed bumps, flipped-over eighteen-wheelers (a different one for every day of driving), a tasty churrascaria for lunch, and the last Brazilian chores in Foz do Iguaçu. If the weather had been better, we might have returned to the famous falls to see them with clear river water, but that wasn’t meant to be.
The last place to share and to end this blog on a positive note was a camping spot we’d found in our free iOverlander app early on our drive back. Check this out: we squeezed ourselves between a fence and a tree for shade, next to a river with pretty little waterfalls, perfect for all of us to cool off.
In walking distance, privately-owned land sported more and bigger waterfalls, Salto Raulino. I went there by myself for a short visit, but Maya would have loved it as well. Luckily, we had our cute and free falls back home!
Yes, we would love to return to Brazil, but we do think it’s a country better visited by plane and backpack than by camper.
Next up: Our September 2025 expense report
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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October 1, 2025 at 13:47
I’m not much of a sunbather, but that beach looks incredible.
I’m not sure if I missed a post, but this was the first time I learned you are planning to sell your trailer. What’s the new plan? A new trailer? Has Thirsty Bella become too much of an economic liability?
October 2, 2025 at 10:23
Hi Pete,
We are not beach people either, not even when we lived on our sailboat. We’d go there for a walk early in the day or late in the afternoon, or for a swim. And we always need shade, which is hard to find on beaches. This was a special occasion and we wouldn’t have lasted without that parasol!
Mark and I put our camper up for sale about two months ago as we are wrapping up our South American travels. I put a blog out with the ad and I’ve been mentioning it sporadically. Once we have the money from this truck camper, we can buy something different and explore Europe. Well, that’s our current thinking anyway. We shall see.
Thirsty Bella has been the ideal vehicle and home for this continent, sturdy and reliable, but it is too big for Europe. We’d like to get some kind of van again.
October 2, 2025 at 10:25
https://roamingabout.com/for-sale-in-south-america-a-fully-contained-and-well-maintained-truck-camper/
October 1, 2025 at 14:42
Probably best to leave the country on your own terms. At least you got to see some of the places you wanted before doing so.
October 2, 2025 at 10:29
Hi Alex,
Yes! We managed to see the places we wanted to see in the areas we covered, so that was great. Whenever we go back to Brazil (there is still a lot to discover, like the Amazon to name one thing), we will fly. Of course, that will have to happen post-Maya.
October 1, 2025 at 16:22
It looks like you “discovered” several really cute towns along the way, Liesbet. I understand why you decided to leave Brazil, taking your chances on getting a simple fine and 60 more days would be stressful. Looking forward to your next adventures!
October 2, 2025 at 10:32
Hi Janis,
It wasn’t the easiest decision to leave Brazil as we had finally slowed down and wanted to relax more and drive less. But we were also getting antsy about selling this camper and being in an unattractive country for that. So, we decided to – again – cover a huge distance and relax in Paraguay instead. The issue here is the crappy climate, just as we’d finally found nice weather on the coast of Brazil. Oh well… The heat or the rain (and red mud and ferocious gnats) will chase us off from here, for sure. But hopefully not too soon.
October 1, 2025 at 17:21
You are making PROGRESS!
I smiled when I saw the McDogs logo–and the Brigitte Bardot sculpture. 😀
Safe travels!
October 2, 2025 at 10:38
Hi Marian,
Not sure what we’re making progress with. Not with selling the camper… But we are finally slowing down and chasing more comfort and peace. If we will find it remains to be seen. 🙂
Thanks for following along still. Brazil had some true gems.
October 2, 2025 at 10:00
I enjoyed this trip as always and appreciate that you always try to see the sunny side of events.
October 2, 2025 at 10:39
Hi Jacqui!
Mark and I are pretty pessimistic people who complain a lot, so I had to smile at your comment. I am trying to see things more positively these days and hopefully I can reflect that in my writing.
Have a great – and productive – weekend!
October 2, 2025 at 15:25
Liesbet, I understand this is your way of life, and that you are working most of the time, but you deserve a vacation once in a while. I’m glad you had a brief experience in a beautiful place. Those white-sand beaches look incredible. I enjoyed the steam engine video, and the photo of Bridget with Maya is precious. Two stars found each other.
October 2, 2025 at 22:25
Hi Suzanne,
Haha. I had to laugh at your last sentence. I guess, in a way, Maya is a star as well.
And, you’re right, we do deserve a vacation – or at least a fun weekend – once in a while. I’ve been too hard on myself and then being annoyed that nobody understands how our life is challenging and how we never take vacations. While, in reality, I – or we – can decide for ourselves to slow down and switch gears at times.
October 7, 2025 at 16:58
What an adventure! But where are you going to sell Thirsty Bella? Have you checked out the shipping cost to get her back to US and sell there? >😍
October 8, 2025 at 09:29
Hi Debby,
We are trying to sell Thirsty Bella here in South America – ideally in Chile, Argentina, or Paraguay – to other travelers who are ready to embark on their South American journey.
The cost and stress of shipping a camper back to the US are high, which we know from experience. And we want a different camper for Europe (we are not returning to North America). This way, nobody has to deal with shipping – not us and not the potential buyers. Many campers have switched hands, sometimes multiple times, while being on this continent. We just have to wait for the right couple/small family that’s looking for a well-maintained and robust rig like ours. This might take a while…
October 8, 2025 at 10:04
A little behind on my commenting, but here I am 🙂 Looks like you followed some of our tracks in Brazil. We loved Cabo Frio and Buzios, but Ouro Preto was one of my favorite Brazilian stops! Those churches absolutely blew me away (and I’m not a churchy person). Especially the one with all the gorgeous, colorful rococo details on the inside – I forget the name of it. Sorry you have to leave Brazil, but I have a feeling you’ll be back someday. Good luck selling your camper – we’ll be following your Paraguay adventures closely since we haven’t been there yet.
– Susan
October 9, 2025 at 14:20
Welcome back, Susan! We have returned to Paraguay and – other than the increasing heat and biting gnats – are enjoying our time here as we await the sale of our camper. When you fly to Brazil, it’s easier to focus on the highlights. I keep saying that a two-week vacation in the Rio area would tick off a lot of Brazilian highlights for the average tourist. Ouro Preto is out of the way for any itinerary, but it’s so worth the detour. We didn’t visit many churches inside as there was usually a fee to pay.
October 8, 2025 at 21:17
Liesbet, I’m glad you had a good time at these small towns. The beaches and the town buildings in your photos look great. I think taking a short vacation here and there is good and necessary to prevent burnout. Good luck selling your camper!
October 9, 2025 at 14:24
Thanks for the wise words and the sentiments, Natalie. We should allow ourselves short vacations once in a while, but when you’re a freelancer on a budget, it’s not always easy. We are constantly on stand-by for work and, of course, are often busy just with the intricacies of living on the road. As we get older, we do get wiser about this, though. 🙂
October 9, 2025 at 16:31
I love the train and the beaches. I hate it that you didn’t get to stay in Brazil longer. All these different rules for different countries are frustrating. Why keep out people who just want to come and spend tourist dollars!
October 13, 2025 at 12:36
We’re with you about the rules in some of these countries. You’d think they want their tourist dollars. Oh well. We will return to Brazil another time, ideally by plane, and travel more comfortably and less frustratingly. 🙂
In general, the Brazilian coast has a nice vibe to it and some areas would make perfect vacation getaways. One day! And if we ever plan to go back for six months, I’ll know to use my American passport and request a visa.
October 9, 2025 at 22:41
What beautiful beaches! Not worth potentially getting into trouble for overstaying, though (IMHO). I have to admit I was on the edge of my seat wondering whether your adventurous spirit was going to go for the “oops” option. I’m glad you didn’t – just thinking about it gives me the shivers. I guess that’s why you’re out adventuring, and I’m sitting happily at home typing on my computer. 😉
October 13, 2025 at 12:42
Haha, Diane. We all have our different strengths: you are an amazing wordsmith with a wonderful sense of humor and wit, I have an adventurous streak. 🙂
To be honest: you pretty much called it and it seems you know me all too well. For the longest time, we were actually leaning towards the overstaying option as that would have allowed us – most likely – to spend two more months in Brazil. It would be the back-up plan when “all else failed”. But, more dilly dallying would potentially delay our future plans, which involve selling the camper. So we decided to leave.