Paraguay – The Underdog of South America (Part 1: First Impressions and Jesuit Missions)

Paraguay is a country often skipped by overlanders and tourists alike. With no world-famous attractions and sandwiched between popular Brazil and Argentina, it remains overlooked. But after traveling through increasingly expensive countries, Mark and I were more than ready for a change. Paraguay promised affordability, authenticity, and, according to our friends — sushi!

Encarnación: Entering Paraguay

We crossed into Encarnación on May 11th without any issues — unless you count Mark knocking over the customs officer’s mate cup. That moment confirmed a fun fact: in Paraguay, mate is served cold, unlike in Argentina. Another surprise? The now soaked and hand-written vehicle permit had to be recreated.

The city gave us a place to run long-delayed errands, save on gas prices, and visit a grocery store that had many items we couldn’t find or afford for a year. We loaded up, grabbed BBQ from a Sunday street stand, and sat by the river feeling like we’d finally entered another budget-travel paradise.

But reality hit that night: loud motorcycles, thumping music, and little chance of sleep reminded us that we were still very much in Latin America.

Life on the Waterfront (and a Sushi Dream)

Knowing Paraguay would be cheaper than Argentina or Chile, we’d saved up chores and repairs. In Encarnación, we tackled a camper ladder repaint, installed a mirror, and found transmission parts — choosing to do the work ourselves to save $400 in labor. The waterfront became our “work station.”

Despite the chaos, one night stood out: Mark and I finally went out for cocktails and indulged in a sushi boat at Hiroshima, a Japanese restaurant. We hadn’t felt that luxurious in years.

Jesuit Mission #1: San Cosme and Damián

A failed border train attempt for me on Independence Day (despite being told it would run) sent us scrambling. Instead of picking up Maya’s international health permit in Argentina, we picked up our camper ladder and made for the Jesuit mission of San Cosme and Damián after a quick stop in Carmen del Parana, a quiet beach town.

The San Cosme and Damián site and village is famous for its early 1700s astronomy work by Jesuit priest Buenaventura Suárez. A guide led us through the observatory, while Maya chewed through her leash and found us after breaking loose — thankfully, without incident. After two of those chewing sessions in six months, it was time for a new leash.

Dogs are allowed at the ruins, so Maya joined us for the rest of the visit.

We explored the grounds before settling down near the town’s river beach.

Star gazing that evening was hazy, but a spectacular moonrise made up for it.

Back to Encarnación (and More Fixes)

With Maya’s paperwork waiting in Argentina, we had to return to Encarnación. I took the border train to Posadas and, after walking all over town in the humid heat, picked up her health permit and made it back in just a few hours. Success!

That afternoon, once the engine had cooled off, we changed our transmission fluid ourselves for the first time. Two hours later, the job was done. Not eager to stay another night in noisy Encarnación, we hit the road again.

Jesuit Mission #2: Trinidad by Night and Day

We reached the Trinidad Mission just in time for their evening light and sound show, which turned out to be a guided night tour through the illuminated ruins. Our Guarani guide spoke clearly and slowly — a welcome change from the usual rapid-fire “swallowed” Spanish.

That night, we camped by the site. The next morning, we visited a quarry where the mission’s stones were mined (now home to mystical wooden creatures) and braved packs of aggressive local dogs with Maya.

We then returned for a quiet, daytime exploration of the best-preserved Jesuit mission in Paraguay.

Jesuit Mission #3: Jesús de Tavarangue

A short drive later, we arrived at Jesús, the third mission. We were greeted by purple wildflowers and took Maya’s photo before walking the grounds with an English audio guide.

Unlike the other sites, Jesús was never completed. The Spanish expelled the Jesuits before construction finished. Still, the site tells the interesting story of the peaceful and mutually beneficial relationship between the Jesuits and the Guarani people.

Hohenau: A Swiss Campground Reprieve

After the missions, we headed to Hohenau, a town with German-Swiss roots, looking forward to several nights at the Swiss-run Manantial Campground. Affordable only after three nights, we committed to – and had planned for – that amount of time. But on arrival, we were told the entire place was rented out for a wedding.

Thankfully, after some persistent negotiation in my poor Spanish and German, we were allowed to stay — but outside the official camping area. One night, we even had to move for guest parking. Relaxation would have to wait.

Still, we enjoyed hot, pressurized showers, long walks with our dog on the massive property, and friendly chats with other overlanders. Maya collected burrs and sticky seeds every time she set paw outdoors.

A Cold Front and a Change of Pace

The long-anticipated warm Paraguayan climate suddenly gave way to cold, wet weather. Storms flooded grassy campsites, brought days of overcast skies, and required long clothes. We had to keep moving…

Next Up: Paraguay – The Underdog of South America (Part 2 – Friends, Asunción, and Eastern Paraguay)

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir: