In Part 1, we shared our first impressions of Paraguay and explored its historic Jesuit missions. Now, our journey continues with reunions, big cities, muddy roads, and a deeper look at life in this underrated country.
Back to Encarnación: Reunion Time
On May 19th, we reunited with our American friends Duwan and Greg from Make Like An Apeman, who’d just finished backpacking South America for a year. They had booked two Airbnbs — one in Encarnación, the other near Areguá, an hour from the capital — and invited us to stay.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
We quickly separated the camper from the truck, parked on a concrete pad, and shut down our fridge to enjoy house life for a change. The next few days were cozy and productive: we took turns cooking dinners, I did heaps of laundry in the available machine, Mark and I ran errands and caught up on work, and our group explored the city and waterfront with Maya.
We also followed a boardwalk to the colorful city “letters” and strolled past Encarnación’s cathedral and central plaza.
Sapucai: An Old Train Yard
As our friends stayed behind for another night, we hit the road towards Asunción, because we required two days of driving to reach the capital area. We stopped in Sapucai, known for its old train yard.
Unfortunately, the train museum closed earlier than indicated (we managed to visit in the morning), our fresh water tank ran dry (so we struggled with the little bit of drinking water we had left), and loud traffic and fireworks made sleep impossible (we should be getting used to this.)
Still, we walked Maya on a bike path and tried to stay flexible, adjusting our plans due to impending rain and muddy red dirt roads.
Yaguarón: The Wooden Church
Before reaching the capital region, we visited Templo de San Buenaventura in Yaguarón, known for its ornate wooden interior. A local guide explained the church’s intricate design for a tip.
We attempted to explore town and buy local produce, but firecrackers scared Maya, cutting our walk short. Respecting our principles (and her nerves), we left.
Areguá: Pool, Pizza, and Rain
Our next Airbnb near Areguá, east of Asunción, appeared fancy and comfortable. It had a big yard and a pool, a flooded field full of mosquitoes, and one bathroom for four, of which the toilet flooded after a heavy downpour. We still enjoyed the luxury and surroundings, though.
We again offloaded the camper, fixed our water pump, and reassembled everything two days later, before predicted storms arrived. Sightseeing had to happen first, when we had our truck available.
Highlights at the Airbnb and in town included: homemade onion rings and pizza nights, a cold-weather dinner out (with Maya under the table), cocktails on the patio, and pool time… just once, when the sun briefly returned.
We also met a fascinating expat named Dave, a former Michelin-star chef from Buenos Aires who now lives in Paraguay and went for a walk to the lake.
Asunción: Exploring the Capital
On a Sunday, we visited Asunción. Our first stop were the popular botanical gardens, where we were immediately overwhelmed by crowds, heat, humidity, and mosquitoes. Then, we parked by the riverfront.
A walking tour in the center of the city took us past the Cabildo (now a cultural center), some notable historical buildings, the National Pantheon of Heroes, the municipal theater, Independence House, and the Presidential Palace (Palacio de López). Tip: don’t get too close — whistles will blow. 🙂
We finished our walk on the riverfront as the sun set and ended the visit with a Korean dinner and ice cream, tired but satisfied.
Areguá Town Visit
Before the storms hit again, the five of us visited the center of Areguá, where we climbed to the cathedral, took photos by the colorful las letras, and walked cobblestone streets to the lake.
Maya had a brief stalker situation involving a very persistent black dog, which ended our lakeside peace. Back at the villa, we battened down for more cold and wet weather.
Yguazú: Ramen and a Fall
We said goodbye to our friends and headed to Yguazú, a town with Japanese influence. There, we enjoyed delicious ramen — a rare treat.
Unfortunately, I tripped on the road edge walking back and badly strained my ankle. It took weeks to heal but didn’t stop our travels (just slowed them a bit).
Ciudad del Este: Borders and Falls
Our next stop was Ciudad del Este, Paraguay’s border city with Argentina and Brazil. We visited the “Triple Frontier” viewpoint, where all three countries meet.
We also camped near the lovely Monday Falls, a smaller but impressive precursor to the famous Iguaçu Falls. Maya could join us on the trails — a win for dog-friendly travel.
Itapú Dam: Engineering Feat
On the road to our next camp spot, we visited Itapú Dam, the second-largest dam in the world, co-managed by Paraguay and Brazil. A 45-minute Spanish tour gave us insight into this hydroelectric marvel.
Tacurú Pucu Park: Rest at Last
We finally slowed down at Tacurú Pucu Park, a free campground run by Itapú Dam staff. After an hour of waiting to obtain a permit, we were allowed to stay.
Home for a little while
Here, we waited on Mark’s Brazilian visa (a new requirement for US citizens since April 2025), did hand laundry, bathed Maya, caught up on work and research, and I finally finished Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harari — a year-long read!
There was one hiccup: we got yelled at for walking Maya outside the designated camping area, despite the local stray dogs roaming freely. Irony noted. Unlike other campers, we don’t let our dog loose without supervision and clean up after her. None of that seemed to matter.
We stayed a total of two weeks (the maximum) at Tacurú Pucu, with a two-day escapade into Brazil to visit Iguaçu Falls, which I will report on separately.
Cerro Corá: Final Stop in Paraguay
Our last stop in this new-to-us country was Cerro Corá National Park, where we planned a long hike. But intense heat and humidity shortened it to a couple of miles. I still ended up with a migraine.
However, we were rewarded with monkey sightings in the evening and an encounter with a lovely South African couple we hoped to meet again.
Final Thoughts on Paraguay
What started as an estimated three-week visit without expectations turned into five weeks, with us liking Paraguay. It is affordable, the locals are friendly, there is a welcome cultural and culinary diversity, and there are enough unique destinations to keep you busy.
It’s not the easiest country to travel in — the noise, infrastructure, and unpredictability are very real, just like in the rest of South America — but it’s also authentic in its own way.
Next up: Our monthly expense report for June 2025.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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July 3, 2025 at 15:05
It seems you deal with fireworks wherever you go. I shouldn’t complain. We’re gearing up for tomorrow and all the regular chaos that makes things difficult for our pooch. She wears a thundershirt, we give her something to calm her nerves, and one of us sits in the bathroom with her for hours with the fan on. Lulu is the most sensitive dog we’ve ever owned.
July 5, 2025 at 15:25
Hi Pete,
That time of the year again, huh? I hope Lulu (and you or Deb) did okay in the bathroom, last night. All our dogs have had a hard time with fireworks, thunder, and shooting. Maya seems to do a bit better with the fireworks and firecrackers when they are in the distance. The worst countries here regarding fireworks were our very first country (Colombia) and the very last (Brazil).
The tricky thing with Maya is that she is quite unpredictable, in the way that her behavior changes. I’ve never had a dog like that. Usually, there are things they hate and things they love. Maya likes to switch them up…
Well, as in loving something one day and not caring about it the next. Or hating one thing one day and tolerating it the next. The worst, however, is her fear of so many things. Especially the driving (because of the bumps and rubble strips on the road), things on the roof (from falling drops to leaves to other tree debris and bird paws), and storms. From the moment the wind picks up now, she freaks out, thinking stuff will fall on the roof soon. Yeah…
July 3, 2025 at 19:05
I am glad I get to live these adventures through you.
July 5, 2025 at 15:25
It’s like reading a travel memoir, one chapter at a time, right? Thanks for following along still, Alex!
July 3, 2025 at 21:49
🫶🏻😊 Still following and enjoying immensely. It’s like, when reading your Book, you wish it wouldn’t end. Here, there’s always more to look forward to. Thank You and Best to you!!
July 5, 2025 at 15:27
That is such a wonderful comment, Carol! Can you believe that we are still in South America? Almost three years!! Maybe there will be a new book, one day. Mark and I are happy you are still following along. The adventure never ends! xox
July 4, 2025 at 06:18
Glad you had a chance to catch up on laundry, errands and work while visiting friends. There goes that re-occuring theme of loud noise at night. 😳 Glad to hear you were able to walk Maya without incident, well accept for the firecrackers and then the persistent black dog, oh and being yelled at for walking Maya outside the camping area. Sorry to hear about your strained ankle. A few years ago I stepped off a curb and torn my achilles. My heart goes out to you. Beautiful photos of Monday Falls. Sounds like a wonderful time in Paraguay. Thanks for sharing. Jim
July 5, 2025 at 15:34
Hi Jim,
Life with a dog in less developed and more chaotic countries adds an extra flavor of challenge to the RV experience, haha.
I remember those photos of you in your cast from the blog posts of that time. I hope your foot totally healed after that incident. It always happens in the most stupid situations, right? And our bodies don’t recover as easily as they once did. Thanks for the compassion about my ankle. It’s mostly healed by now. I think.
Thanks for your lovely comment, as always, and I hope you’ll stick around for our Brazil adventures. I’ve looked forward to visiting that country for a while…
July 4, 2025 at 09:33
Your photos make the story real, Liesbet, including the fancy chef items. Obviously, you thrive because you stay flexible, adjusting your plans that always include Maya. 😀
July 5, 2025 at 15:35
Hi Marian,
I guess flexibility is one of the most important virtues of this lifestyle. Also: tolerance, patience, and positivism. I have to agree that some of those are lacking at times! 🙂 But, yes, Maya is the queen.
July 4, 2025 at 11:17
There is a lot more to Paraguay than I ever imagined. Did your friends really backpack through SA? Oh my. They are energetic!
July 5, 2025 at 15:38
Hi Jacqui,
Yes, Duwan and Greg traveled around with a backpack for a year, in Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru, with a few house sits sprinkled in. They mostly stayed in Airbnbs, though, so not the “backpacking” how it’s called when climbing and hiking in nature and the mountains and staying in tents. That would be crazy energetic, indeed!
July 4, 2025 at 17:26
I’m glad that you were able to have a bit of a catch up break, unhook your camper, catch up with friends and other things that you wanted to get done. I knew almost nothing about Paraguay so appreciated traveling there vicariously with you.
July 5, 2025 at 15:40
Hi Donna,
I’m glad to enlighten you about Paraguay. It’s not a highlight in South America, but, since we were here, how could we pass it up, right? We had no strong feelings about it either way, but certainly enjoyed the affordability. 🙂
We were so happy that both Airbnbs were located in quiet areas. Yes, it was a nice break and it always helps when we can be productive as well.
July 4, 2025 at 20:46
What a nice surprise Paraguay was! Waterfalls, monkeys, and ramen… what more could you ask for? I am also fond of mojitos, but that one looks a bit intimidating… did it live up to the hype?
July 5, 2025 at 15:43
Hi Janis,
One of the things we enjoyed most in Paraguay was its international flavor – in both senses of the word.
About that mojito… Let’s just say that it looks tastier in the photos, haha. It’s the prettiest cocktail any of us ever bought, but it tasted very superficial. And you know how Mark is not fond of sugar and sugary things. Needless to say, he didn’t order a second one. Or any other alcoholic drink for that matter.
July 5, 2025 at 09:57
A comprehensive post with lots of moving parts – I’m happy to see that Duwan and Greg are recurring characters in your story. It must be comforting to reconnect with dear friends and meet new ones along the way. Mark’s review of the Mojito? Inquiring minds want to know?
July 5, 2025 at 15:47
Hi Suzanne,
Surprisingly, we don’t meet many likeminded people on the road down here. It’s a “popular” lifestyle now, which means “everyone” is doing it and we don’t click or connect well with the younger generation of Instagrammers and YouTubers. So, when we do meet adventurous couples closer to our age, it usually turns into a fun night or two. Meeting up with long-standing friends in a different continent is a whole different level of awesomeness! 🙂
The mojito looked really pretty, but it was very superficial tasting. Mostly sweet and candy-like; nothing minty and nothing like a real mojito, really. I was happy just having one sip out of curiosity, but gladly left the rest to Mark, who needed the entire evening to finish it, haha. Not recommended.
July 6, 2025 at 19:49
It’s nice to hear that you (mostly) enjoyed Paraguay. Your adventures seemed generally more positive, but the thought of the inescapable loud noises makes me shudder. Maya and I have a lot in common! 😉
I hope your ankle is better now.
July 7, 2025 at 20:18
Hi Diane,
It seems like both you and I have a lot in common with Maya. Maybe it’s a female thing: loving food and eating, preferring quiet environments, wanting to take it easy. 🙂
We have come to terms with Latin America being a loud culture. We knew this from our year in Mexico and Central America in 2006, but for some reason, we thought it would be better here. And it is, but only when you can find a camping spot in the middle of nature. Unfortunately, to get around, we need to take roads that go through cities.
Anyway, as you can imagine, the noise, sleepless nights, and uncomfortableness are getting to us, so we are slowly planning our escape from the continent. Or from this lifestyle on this continent. 🙂
July 8, 2025 at 14:52
I think I could return to Paraguay. We, of course, enjoyed all the new bird species!
Monday Falls looks lovely. And the termite hills are fascinating!
It was great to be able to meet up with you guys! Next time I will try and not be sick the entire time.
July 9, 2025 at 10:23
Hi Duwan,
There are a few places we wouldn’t mind returning to in Paraguay as well, to get a break from the road without breaking the bank. Of course, we have yet to experience their famous and dreaded hot and scorching summers.
It was great to catch up. Sorry you felt crappy the entire time, and you were exhausted from what South America throws at us.
July 9, 2025 at 21:17
Hi Liesbet. I hope you get this comment. I commented on Part 1 and had trouble getting it through. Paraguay looks like a place you enjoyed very much. I hope your ankle is healed. I mentioned in comment in part 1 that my best friend’s son is married to a girl from Paraguay, and they are seriously considering leaving Toronto for a simpler and cheaper life there. too. Hugs xx
July 11, 2025 at 12:26
Hi Debby,
Yes, I’m getting all your comments, but maybe you are not seeing my replies or getting them in your inbox. I left a reply to your previous comments, on Part one as well. So cool about your friend’s son potentially moving to Paraguay. Their summer heat and humidity will be tough, though.
My ankle is still not 100%, but then again, I never actually let it rest and kept doing what I wanted to do. Certain movements are still painful, unfortunately, and it feels very stiff when I try to exercise.
Hugs back!!
July 11, 2025 at 12:28
This was my reply to your previous comment at Paraguay Part 1:
Hi Debby,
I’m so glad you’ve heard about Paraguay and kind of know someone from there. I’m not surprised about the couple wanting to relocated there. To be honest Paraguay is becoming a very attractive expat destination, especially because Argentina is getting out of control and becoming unaffordable. We’ve met quite a few (German) expats while there. They love the freedom and the affordability of that country. There are even German-Swiss communities. It does get very hot and humid during the summer, though!
I hope you’re receiving these as messages in your inbox or the WordPress reader.
July 12, 2025 at 06:53
Sorry to hear about the fall and the injury to your ankle. It sounded very painful, but it’s good to hear that it didn’t stop you from getting around, even if at a slower pace.
And what about Maya’s stalker? Poor Maya. Shame it cut your visit short.
What amazed me more than anything was the contrast in weather conditions. From cold and wet to hot and humid, you seem to have gone through all four seasons.
July 14, 2025 at 13:08
Hi Hugh,
My ankle is still not totally healed. And I never got X-rays taken, so I have no idea of the extent of the damage done. I’ll have to give it more time.
I wish I took a photo of Maya’s stalker. Often, I do, but we were with friends and this black, short-haired stray really annoyed us, so we had our hands full chasing him off, which didn’t happen. He kept pushing his snout into Maya’s crotch and didn’t give up. Poor Maya! Usually, she sits down in those cases, but this dog refused to leave her – and us – in peace.
We did experience extreme conditions in Paraguay, where one day, it was in the thirties, sunny, and humid, and the next it barely got up to 12C and we needed sweaters and jeans again. Strange indeed!
July 12, 2025 at 12:26
This was an engrossing read, Liesbet! It brought back some great memories and also introduced us to some new places that sound exciting.
July 14, 2025 at 13:10
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reading and commenting. Paraguay was an interesting country. Not sure we will go back, but we did like the diversity and price tag. So far, it would be our choice of country to sit still at a comfortable, affordable campground to focus on work and relaxation.