Our route from Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca to Lima, Peru’s capital, was no joke. The first stretch of road (3N) towards a main east-west highway (Hwy 16) was riddled with potholes and took hours to complete. Each time we wanted to weave around a massive hole, into the other lane, someone else overtook us, forcing Thirsty Bella to slow to a crawl and go through the craters. Not a fun drive.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Barranca
Once we reached Hwy 16, the going was smooth and relatively fast again, towards the barren, desolate, littered coastline. We spent one night in the beach town of Barranca to break up the trip to Lima. It was the weekend, so not a surprise that loud music and a partying bar had us move camping spots in the middle of the night.
Miraflores
The estimated four-hour drive from Barranca easily took an hour longer due to the horrendous traffic of Lima. Slow progress is what it is, but when you have to fight for a spot on the road with massive semi-trucks, who make left turns from the extreme right lane and you’re pushed from all sides by impatient drivers, while literally everyone honks their horn, you can imagine driving around the capital (let alone in it!) is far from ideal!
Once we were settled at one of the many (secured) beach parking lots in the Miraflores area, we let out a sigh of relief and contacted our new American friends whom we met near Laguna Churup. Mark and I took Maya for a walk along the seemingly infinite “boardwalk” and grey shoreline.
Traffic noise was constant – we had parked our camper between the main road around the city and the Pacific Ocean – but we’d deal with it. A free campsite, watched by security, with trash cans, porta potties to empty our toilet, and plenty of walking opportunities for our dog was worth that nuisance.
The sidewalk, bike path, and our camping spot along the ocean in Miraflores
That first night, we climbed the endless number of steps to Miraflores proper to meet our friends and the following day, we repeated the trek with our dirty laundry. Lauren and Ryan were gracious hosts to offer us a hot, pressurized shower, receive three big bags of dogfood for Maya, and let us do a couple of loads of laundry. We took a taxi back home.
On our last afternoon in Miraflores, we enjoyed strolling along a couple of parks (like Parque del Amor), watching paragliders soar over the cliffs, and eating a delicious early dinner at the seafood restaurant Costazul. Thank you, Susan and John for the recommendation!
Barranco
Not to be confused with the previously mentioned Barranca. This neighborhood is talked-up as a lively place to stroll around and enjoy the nightlife. Mark and I tried our very first (and so far, only) Pisco Sour here, before taking a cab to another part of the city to meet with relatives of a US friend. We had a lovely evening with Walter and his family and learned a lot about Peruvian life. Apparently, Peru is the most dangerous country to drive, together with India… It doesn’t surprise us!
Historic center
Lima is known for its grey and coolish climate, but Mark, Maya, and I picked a decent afternoon to head into the historic district with a cab. The driver dropped us off at the northern edge of this attractive area and we strolled along interesting buildings and the temporarily closed-off main square (Plaza Mayor).
We stumbled upon the starting point of a “free walking tour” (tips expected) and decided to join the group. The guide was entertaining and we learned a thing or two tagging along for an hour and a half past colonial architecture and little squares (plazuelas).
From the historic center, we walked south towards another Lima attraction. We were impressed with the parks and green spaces all around.
El Circuito Magico del Agua
Probably the most known and cherished feature of Lima, the “Circuit of Water” is a series of fountains in Reserva Park. I’m not sure if you have to pay during the day, but once darkness arrives, a few hourly sound and light shows are presented in one of the water features. Dogs were not allowed (after 3pm), so I went in by myself for the one-dollar, 15-minute show. Mark and Maya waited outside.
Lima’s cuisine
Many people have been telling us the food in Peru is exquisite. Until we reached the capital, we didn’t experience anything better, different, or more special than in Colombia or Ecuador. And, even in the city, it seems like “good food” is only available for those who can afford it. Apart from the Caldo de Gallina or rooster soup (which is available throughout the country), the food was on the pricey side.
That being said, we had a chance to try the tasty “chifa” (a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian food) when visiting Walter’s family, splurged on a fancy meal in the gourmet restaurant Rafael in Miraflores, and – as mentioned above – really enjoyed the ceviche and seafood dishes at Costazul.
Corrupt Peruvian police
Peruvian police officers have a bad reputation among overlanders. Often, they pull gringos over, looking for handouts, coming up with a bogus infraction and then requesting a bribe to let you go. When giving into their commands, you approve of their behavior and you make it more difficult for the next tourist driving through. We NEVER pay bribes.
In general, when we are pulled over at police checkpoints in Peru, the officers have been friendly, just, and professional. We hand over copies of our original documents to avoid them holding on to the real ones (which has never been a problem), answer their questions, and drive on within five minutes.
Normal police checkpoint
Except for one time in Lima, when two motorcycle cops spotted us in front of a red light, came in pursuit, and gestured us to the side. We knew what would happen next… Again, we stayed calm, showed them our copies, and convinced them that foreign vehicles do not need reflectors (all around). We do have some, out of goodwill, but according to this pair, “not enough.”
Corrupt cops in Lima
A Peruvian man (as often) was taking photos of our cow mobile in the meantime, which triggered our cops. They harassed him next, asking for his ID and the photos on his phone. Not sure if they made him delete any. But they had lost interest in us, returned the papers, and sent us on our merry way.
Protests
A capital city is always prone to demonstrations, protests, and even riots. While we were in Lima, we spotted two protests and plenty of police in full-on riot gear. It was the reason the main square in the city was cordoned off when we were there (fear for riots). Nobody seems to be thrilled with the current president.
A new “family member”
As if buying five months’ worth of specialized food for Maya, over one hundred gallons of expensive gasoline, and a few pricey meals wasn’t enough to kill our budget in September, Mark and I bit the bullet regarding our challenging internet situation. We bought a Starlink satellite internet system in Lima. More about that not-so-straightforward process in our next expense report, early October. What we can say is that our new family member is a game changer in the most positive of ways!
Moving on
On our last day at the Costa Verde in Miraflores, we were politely asked by a security guard to move to another parking area. It was Sunday and he expected this lot to fill with beach goers from the city. We obliged and finished our one-week stay in the capital elsewhere. All in all, we surprised ourselves by genuinely liking Lima.
Next up: Our expense report for September 2024.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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September 27, 2023 at 19:05
Hi Liesbet! It was great that you found a place to plant yourselves for a week (mostly!) and visit with new and old friends. And also great when a place turns out to be more interesting than expected. Glad you took a breather and can now continue on to new adventures! ~Kathy
September 28, 2023 at 11:47
Hi Kathy,
The traffic noise was loud throughout the nights, but the fan helped and the honking usually didn’t start until mornings. 🙂 But, we found a decent base to explore the area from and deal with work and other errands, so not a bad stop at all.
September 27, 2023 at 19:18
It’s curious how habits develop within a culture such as honking at any minor irritation. Loud noises always seem to follow you wherever you go. I’d be essentially lost without Internet, one of the things I’d find most challenging about your lifestyle. Like anything, people adjust, so I’m sure I would too.
September 27, 2023 at 19:19
I’m assuming Spanish is the primary language in Peru. How is your Spanish?
September 28, 2023 at 11:58
Yes, in Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru (and most of South America), Spanish is the main language. The indigenous people speak Quechua and little Spanish at times. The places we visit and camp at are often remote, so knowing some Spanish to communicate is important. In touristy cities, like Cusco, some people speak English or the restaurant menus are in both languages. This throws us off! 🙂
Mark can get by in Spanish and I can have basic conversations and understand a lot.
September 28, 2023 at 11:54
Hi Pete,
Here in Peru, most honking does not have to do with irritation, strangely enough. It can mean “stay in your lane while I pass you,” “stop where you are, so I can use your lane to make my wide turn,” “I know you,” “cool camper,” “I want to go first,” “give me right of way at intersections or roundabouts,” “do you see me coming?” “don’t get on the road, because I’ll run you over,” and so on. Plus, there are all the official and non-official taxi drivers honking to pick up rides. I swear I should write a blog post just about traffic and the non-exiting rules here! 🙂
Starlink should be our solution regarding unlimited and reliable internet…
September 27, 2023 at 19:23
Hi, Liesbet I love your calm and unruffled attitude. It is essential for your adventures. I’m delighted that you enjoyed Peru and that your “new family member” is a game changer. I look forward to reading more.
September 28, 2023 at 12:00
Hi Donna,
You have no idea how much cursing takes place in our household at times, especially in the car when driving! 🙂
I’m sure you meant “Lima” in your comment above and not “Peru”, as, yes, we enjoyed Lima, but the rest of Peru has been a mixed bag.
September 27, 2023 at 20:01
Great recap of your time in Lima, Liesbet. Discouraging to read about the corrupt cops. Wonder how much that has to do with low wages or just a state of being. We didn’t experience anything like that but we weren’t driving of course. Have fun and be safe!
September 28, 2023 at 12:03
Hi Annie,
I’m discovering that tourists flying in, using public transportation, and staying in hotels have very different experiences in Peru – and other SA countries – than us, who are totally immersed in every facet of local life. Including heaps of trash, people peeing everywhere, noisy parties, rude locals, and dealing with corrupt cops. A lot has to do with driving ourselves and camping outside the tourist areas.
It is our understanding that wages in Peru are not bad. When you look at how well the economy thrives and you compare the higher prices for everything here with Ecuador and Colombia, I think the corruption might have to do more with attitude than low income.
September 27, 2023 at 20:23
It helps\that you’re a seasoned traveler when it comes to not relenting to paying bribes! 🙂
September 28, 2023 at 12:07
Hi Nancy,
You may be right. When we traveled throughout Mexico and Central America in 2006 (a lifetime ago), we were more apprehensive about the attitude of corrupt cops, especially in Honduras.
Now, we feel better prepared and more in our right. We never paid bribes in that far past either, but were more nervous about interactions with cops. We’ve become more relaxed about these encounters and know that patience and determination pay off. Of course all this is based on us actually not doing anything wrong or making a mistake in traffic. When you deserve a ticket, that’s another matter altogether.
September 27, 2023 at 21:02
Some good looking food. Lima looks beautiful. Glad you had friends to visit in the area.
September 28, 2023 at 12:09
Lima was a nice surprise, Alex, and the friends and good food helped with that! 🙂
September 27, 2023 at 21:37
I remember memorizing Lima as the capital of Peru in grade-school geography class, and now you are giving me a personal tour. The scenery is lovely, especially the mountains and beach, but my favorite photo is of Maya and Zeus.
Happy to hear you are meeting up with friends too and now have reliable WiFi service with Starlink satellite internet system. :=)
September 28, 2023 at 12:12
Hi Marian,
That’s cool that you actually had to learn the capitals of South America at school. In the US! 🙂
We had to memorize the locations of every country in the world (and got tested often) in geography classes in high school, but never learned the capitals. It has been one of my goals to know them all at some point. I have a sheet on which I wrote all the countries and capital cities of the world about thirty years ago, but I never succeeded in memorizing them all.
September 27, 2023 at 22:54
I think I see my hotel (and Larcomar) up above your camping spot! Pisco Sours – yum! You’re making me miss Peru! Glad you enjoyed Lima. I really disliked it the first time I was there but it grew on me as I continued to go back a few times for some old work I used to do. Stay on your good run of positive vibes!
September 28, 2023 at 12:17
Hi Lexie,
A lot of tourists don’t favor Lima, especially overlanders who just drive through and don’t want to deal with its traffic. Plus, many of us avoid big cities all together.
I can see how Lima grew on you – and how cool you recognized your hotel in Miraflores in one of my photos! It’s a nice area. It reminded me of Boca Grande in Cartagena. The same vibe, cleanliness, and “upscale” appearance.
So far, I’m not a fan of Pisco Sours, but I believe I should try another one here in Cusco one day.
September 27, 2023 at 23:50
Great recap, Liesbet! That traffic and trash would drive me nuts, but you managed to also find some beautiful spots. Good for you for avoiding fines. It’s a shame that practice is common.
September 28, 2023 at 12:44
Hi Janis,
I think we liked Ecuador, because nothing major happened and we were generally happy. Traveling overland seemed easy there. But, now it’s back to the usual “good, bad, and ugly” that defines our lifestyle. Peru has some highlights, but in general, we are not impressed with the country and the people. Sadly.
September 28, 2023 at 10:42
So much in your travels that would have smoke coming from my ears. If I ever travel internationally, you are coming with me. What a beautiful white dog… Always love how much fun Maya has… Looking forward for more on your Starlink service.
September 28, 2023 at 12:49
Hi Jacqui,
It’s all that stuff that would create smoke out of your ears that can become too much for us as well. Traveling like this is exhausting and we will need a short break from the road soon. We had hoped Cusco would be the place, but we always have so much going on (at the moment camper, truck, and Starlink projects and some health and logistical issues) that I don’t think a month of “relaxing” while renting a place is in the cards this year.
Maya has the time of her life and we barely ever leave her alone at home, so even her separation anxiety is not put to the test much. 🙂
September 28, 2023 at 15:55
Great post. Glad you liked the restaurant suggestion. Lima is definitely a place to spend a few days and Miraflores is the sweet spot. Free walking tours are a great way to learn a lot about the place you visit. Thanks for the shout out!
October 6, 2023 at 21:51
Hi Susan!
I will recommend my cousin to stay in Miraflores when they fly into and leave from Lima later this year. I do think that’s the nicest area to stay and live in the capital. We loved your restaurant recommendation and I wouldn’t mind returning to Costazul for another seafood lunch or dinner! 🙂
September 28, 2023 at 20:25
I’m glad you finally found a place to enjoy yourselves. 🙂 Those food photos made my mouth water – yum!
October 6, 2023 at 21:51
Unlike the boiled potato and still-in-the-peel egg, right? 🙂
October 7, 2023 at 17:10
LOL! Exactly. 🙂
October 9, 2023 at 15:52
🙂
September 29, 2023 at 03:49
I am glad you managed to stay in Miraflores, it is a good area from which to explore Lima. You did pack quite a lot into your week there. We also did the “free” walking tour and found it to be very informative.
Traffic in any big cities is a problem with a camper, but Lima really is one of the worst for driving. I remember when we were there, thinking we were glad not to be driving. Not just in Lima, but also most of Peru. We have also heard of the corrupt cops.
I hope you will have a chance to relax a bit soon.
October 6, 2023 at 21:57
Hi Gilda,
It sounds like you’re pretty familiar with Lima – and you are so right about driving a camper in this country, let alone the capital. In our entire lives, we have not encountered worse, less patient, and less cordial drivers than here in Peru. The way they drive (and “think”) is just crazy, insane, and ridiculous. I have no words anymore after dealing with those driving habits for 2.5 months!
For example today in Cusco (just driving with the truck): we waited until the light turned from red to green (they are timed, so people know exactly when to drive and when not to) and when it was our turn (namely a green light) and we started driving, we got yelled, honked, and gestured at by drivers ignoring their red light and wanting us to let them go. Crazy.
September 29, 2023 at 16:11
Not having reliable internet at times absolutely made us crazy, so I can imagine what a relief it is to finally have something that works. It really is a necessity at this point and can make all the difference when you’re living on the road.
October 6, 2023 at 21:58
Hi Laura,
Yes, decent internet is priceless these days and Starlink has been great. But, unfortunately, there are still times when it has failed us: when camped in a deep canyon with tall walls on both sides, next to a forest, or during a dust storm.
September 30, 2023 at 17:13
I’m glad you found somewhere in Peru that was more likeable.
October 6, 2023 at 22:01
Yup. Thanks, Anabel. Likable places (to camp) seem to be hard to find in Peru, unfortunately. It seems like most overlanders are on the same page about this and can’t wait to leave. Some hasten their retreat out of this country and others even contemplate skipping Machu Picchu (yours truly included).
October 7, 2023 at 02:55
That’s the one place in Peru I’d love to go to!
October 7, 2023 at 10:48
I think the Sacred Valley is worthwhile and Machu Picchu probably as well, but now that we are meeting many travelers (here in Cusco) who have visited MP (and who are truthful), we have to lower our expectations about this magnificent site. Apparently, it’s a commercial zoo with thousands of visitors a day and a bit overrated because of all the hype. We will see. Or not. 🙂
October 2, 2023 at 23:05
What a journey my friend. The corruption doesn’t surprise. Sadly. Just stay safe and enjoy the ride. <3
October 6, 2023 at 22:05
We are trying to enjoy the ride, Debby, but a good chunk of our experiences makes this hard. Like I said to Mark today: “There isn’t one event, chore, or errand where I can just write in my diary or on the blog that this or that happened. No, there is always a story, conundrum, disappointment, or insanity that is involved/required. Nothing can just happen or take place without drama, disgust, and/or disbelief.” But I guess it makes for good tales later. Every. Single. Event.
October 7, 2023 at 09:54
I get the feeling! Just remember, I know it’s sometimes difficult to get some time to blog or whatever you wish to do on the internet. With so much happening, just make sure you have a little note pad to make short note to remind you of all your topics and experiences along the way until you can get to the computer. Stay safe! <3
October 7, 2023 at 10:50
Thanks for the tip, dear Debby. I do make a point of writing my diary. Sometimes, a few days late, but it does still happen. I’m just a bit exhausted (and now sick for over five days already as well). We need to rest, but don’t allow ourselves to do that, because we always have so much going on. We are in the nicest part of a Peru right now, but I’m not even up for visiting the ruins. Oh well. It is what it is. Machu Picchu is probably overrated. 🙂
October 7, 2023 at 18:04
No doubts you are run down. You need to rest up. The ruins will always be there. <3
October 9, 2023 at 15:53
Sure thing. Machu Picchu can wait! No matter how close we are at the moment, haha. It’s a huge hassle to get to anyway.
October 13, 2023 at 06:33
I’m glad you enjoyed Lima, although getting there and driving around there seem like nightmares. I’m don’t like driving, so iot would have been nightmare for me. Is it Mark that does all the driving, or do you also do some?
Thank goodness for friends like Lauren and Ryan. And they even had something for Maya. How nice.
I’m glad the police have not harassed you too much. It’s such a shame that many bribe drivers, Liesbet.
The fountain and light show was worth the money I hope. From your photos it looks amazing.
I hope the adventure is going amazedly well.
October 13, 2023 at 22:33
Hi Hugh,
Mark does all the driving here. He prefers it that way and me too! Peru is a crazy place (together with India the most dangerous to drive in the world) and I would just get in trouble, trying to match the aggressive style of the locals and being stubborn not giving in to their pushing and honking.
In the US, I sometimes drove just the truck, but never this truck camper. Our previous camper van of four years I did sometimes drive. To bring Mark to the airport. 🙂
We used to be intimidated by police and police check points and bribe encounters, but we have relaxed about that since we feel we have the last word, the patience, and the time. And, the truth.
The fountain park was cheap, Hugh, at about 1 euro per person, so strolling through the gardens and past the water features just to find peace in a busy city was worth it! 🙂