Mark, Maya, and I had five weeks to explore the Canadian Maritimes, before my parents would arrive from Belgium. Time flies! Especially when all hiking and sightseeing is postponed on rainy days. We knew we couldn’t circumnavigate Nova Scotia in its entirety, due to long distances, expensive fuel, and time constraints.
Crossing New Brunswick took about a week, then we spent another one in the Halifax area, where we had to choose: travel about the southwest corner of the province or the northeastern part. We picked the latter and headed to Cape Breton Island, many hours and kilometers away.
We hit the Cabot Trail – a famous scenic drive – on the first day of September. Another traveler had recommended we’d drive counter clockwise to take in the dramatic vistas from the best angle, so we did. While pretty, it wasn’t as spectacular as we anticipated; the nicer parts reminded us somewhat of the Acadia National Park shoreline in Maine.
Baddeck
The Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site is the most prominent landmark in cute Baddeck. The inventor of the telephone was a well-traveled man and had a summer house across the bay from the museum. We didn’t stay long as we wanted to get to the National Park while sun was predicted.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park
The main reason for our visit to Cape Breton was this attractive national park that borders the top part of the Cabot Trail. Mark and I worked around the weather (as much as possible) and free camping options outside the park in order to hike a few trails and stop at viewpoints. These visits were spread over multiple days.
The most dramatic and beautiful part of the Cabot Trail drive
We especially enjoyed our first and last hikes. Middle Head Trail, a moderate path that follows the headlands and starts at the Keltic Lodge, offered nice views under blue skies. It is on the East Coast.
The easy 4-mile Corney Brook Trail on the West Coast guided us to a pretty waterfall. The day started with heavy cloud cover and rain, but cleared up in the afternoon. Since we managed an early start, we barely saw anyone else on this popular hike.
In between, we checked out beaches and viewpoints, which we found more scenic along the west side of the island.
For another impression about the park, check out Anabel’s blog here.
Neil’s Harbour & White Point
That first long day on the Cape, we were curious about the extreme north and veered off the popular Cabot Trail. A quick stop in Neil’s Harbour to glance at the lighthouse (I love lighthouses and the ones we encountered on this two-month trip might demand a separate post) revealed the cute structure being turned into an ice cream parlor. If it wouldn’t have been this late in the day, I could have easily been seduced!
Our trusted iOverlander app lured us to a pull-off along the road towards White Point. There, we were the first campers to arrive and rewarded by a not-too-shabby view. From that moment on, most of our overnight spots would be shared with other tent campers or RVers.
Meat Cove
On our way to the top of the island, we stopped at Sugarloaf Beach for a very enjoyable walk. Nobody else was around, so Maya had the time of her life.
When Mark was six years old, his parents took him on a camping trip to Meat Cove, where they “drove a dangerous dirt road, where cars had fallen off the cliffs and rusted away in the ravines.” Of course, we had to check that out. Unfortunately, there’s not much in Meat Cove apart from an extensive campground along the entire waterfront and a few walking trails. We decided to follow an old road bed in the woods for a moderate 4-hour hike to Cape St. Lawrence Lighthouse. Except, the lighthouse was no more and the path was extremely rocky and steep. We did see rusty car skeletons. Might this have been the old road Mark’s parents tackled?
After an hour of climbing with no views, we decided to return. What a waste of a beautiful day. But, we’d seen one of the most attractive and perfect overnight parking spots ever on our drive up and looked forward to spending the rest of the afternoon there, staring over an expanse of ocean and maybe spotting whales.
Yes, the level concrete slab was available! We made our narrow way into it and managed to face Zesty outwards after a 30-point turn. Frustration built. There wasn’t much room and pointy, tire-popping rebar stuck out everywhere; the view made up for it. Then, we discovered a pile of human waste. I won’t go into details of how that happened. Needless to say, we moved on. Not all campers are considerate, decent human beings!
Pleasant Bay
Our daily drives were longer than anticipated. Yet, based on what was coming our way, it was a positive thing that we made a lot of progress in a short amount of time. We found a nice free camping spot along the water in Pleasant Bay. Being surrounded by grass is perfect when rain is predicted. It prevents mud and dirt from entering Zesty. All we have to deal with is damp towels, dripping coats, and a wet dog.
Margaree Harbor
Our last night on Cape Breton was spent at another lovely spot, overlooking the water. It’s so nice that places and towns like these allow free overnight parking; a huge benefit of traveling in the Canadian Maritimes as opposed to New England in the US.
Where the Cabot Trail turns inland to complete the loop, we kept going down the coast, towards the Prince Edward Island ferry in Pictou. The weather wasn’t ideal and a special storm was brewing…
Inverness Beach
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September 22, 2019 at 01:53
Of course, you had to drive that dangerous road in Meat Cove…lol! Thanks for taking us along on your trip, Liesbet. Your photos are stunning!
September 22, 2019 at 04:42
Hey Jill! You’re getting to know me! 🙂 Thanks for the photo compliment. In my next post (about Prince Edward Island), I have more lighthouses for you.
September 23, 2019 at 03:13
I love lighthouses!
September 23, 2019 at 12:49
I know!!!
September 23, 2019 at 15:18
🙂
September 22, 2019 at 02:05
Snap! We have that same picture of Middle Head,
https://glasgowgallivanter.com/2012/08/07/cape-breton-the-national-park/
September 22, 2019 at 04:54
Yep, same photo. Funny you picked that particular one to post for that hike. We didn’t do the Skyline Trail as it was the only trail in the park that didn’t allow dogs. Happy to read that you are familiar with the Acadians as well!
September 22, 2019 at 04:56
Thanks for linking!
September 22, 2019 at 18:58
Happy to do so.
September 22, 2019 at 02:26
Meat Cove – what a name for a place – sounds vaguely disturbing!
September 22, 2019 at 04:54
It sure does sound disturbing. We should have asked the meaning behind it, but the “town” was extremely quiet when we visited.
September 22, 2019 at 22:28
I believe that the name ‘Meat Cove’ originated from the area being used by hunters to dress animal carcasses.
September 23, 2019 at 12:50
You believe right, Donna! I looked it up yesterday and that’s exactly what I found on some website. 🙂
September 22, 2019 at 06:22
All your lovely pictures and travel notes take me back to when we camped (tented) and hiked through much of the same territory. What a nice memory, though my favorite hikes are still in western Canada (and the US). Looking forward to your next adventure and already wondering where you’ll be now that this 5-week adventure is ending!
September 22, 2019 at 19:03
Hi Beth! Like you, we are more fond of the American and Canadian West – the scenery can’t be beat – yet we’d been curious about the east of Canada and are happy to have explored a bit of it. Newfoundland still speaks to the imagination and Quebec is so big, that there’s always more to discover. Yet, we don’t like cold and wet weather, which makes some of these areas tricky.
Currently, my parents flew in from Belgium and are visiting with us for almost three weeks. We just spent some quality time in Quebec City and will slowly follow the Maine Coast south to our “home state” of Massachusetts, from where they will return home as well. 🙂
September 22, 2019 at 06:48
Some people are disgusting, aren’t they?
You probably saw more of that area than most people do since you had so much time. Very beautiful from the photos.
September 22, 2019 at 19:04
Thanks, Alex. One advantage we usually have by living on the road is that we can take our time exploring areas in depth. That being said, there always seems to be some kind of deadline. 🙂
September 22, 2019 at 08:59
Great and informative post. We hope to follow in your RV footsteps in the future. Looking forward to your post on Prince Edward Island!
Cheers!
September 22, 2019 at 19:06
Hi guys! Thanks for reading and commenting. That’s exciting that you have RVing plans as well. Full-time or temporarily? Any concrete plans yet? Ideas? Destinations? Kind of vehicle?
September 22, 2019 at 13:23
Wonderful photos! I wonder how Meat Cove got its name…
September 22, 2019 at 19:14
Thanks! Fancy a guess about why the fishing town is called Meat Cove? 🙂
September 22, 2019 at 16:19
One of my favorite places on the earth! I’ve never done the Cabot trail but happy to hear it wasn’t as spectacular as you expected (with the nicer bits being reminiscent of Acadia which I have done). Still, I am wowed by the dramatic view point that you share along the trail. And I adore the snaps of the lighthouses at Neil’s Harbour and Margaree Harbor. Maya seems happy as a clam. You’ve really made some miles in Zesty. So glad that she didn’t fall off the cliffs to rust away in the ravines at Meat Cove.
September 22, 2019 at 19:18
I’m still a tad surprised at Nova Scotia being one of your most favorite places on earth, after all the travels you’ve done, the cultures you’ve been a part of, the experiences you’ve enjoyed, and the unique places you have visited, Lisa. My guess is the climate, friendly people, and maritime atmosphere combo suits you well. 🙂
Maya is awesome and happy and Zesty has been put to the test, especially now with two extra adults (my parents) and their luggage. We should have left our bikes behind this time, as we haven’t been able to use them and they add a lot of weight to the van.
September 22, 2019 at 16:52
I could write my usual comments about the beautiful things you saw and the sweet dog you have, but what I really want to know is how Meat Cove got that (kind of unappealing) name?!
September 22, 2019 at 19:21
There seems to be a lot of curiosity about the name and origins of Meat Cove, Lexie, so I just looked it up. Apparently, “its unusual name is believed to have originated from the area being used as a popular location for hunters to dress animal carcass’ during its early history.” Voila! 🙂
September 22, 2019 at 17:04
Stunning photos Liesbet. Maya looks so happy and contented with you both. I do wonder why people name areas with such unrelated titles, sometimes the history of the place can unearth the reason.
September 22, 2019 at 19:24
You were right about the history of Meat Cove offering a glimpse into its name, Suzanne. I guess hunters used to skin the killed animals there and took the meat home.
Maya puts a smile on our faces every day. She is such a wonderful, sweet, and beautiful dog and an easy, well-behaved companion. 🙂
September 22, 2019 at 22:30
Hi, Liesbet – I am so happy to read that you, Mark and Maya enjoyed this trip into Canada. Your overnight camping spots were amazing, and Maya is gorgeous. Wishing you all safe travels ahead!
September 23, 2019 at 12:52
Thanks for the travel wishes, Donna. After my parents leave, we are slowing down! 🙂 The entire family enjoyed our time in Canada this summer. Hard to pick a favorite coast, though. I’d love to visit Banff and Jasper and the national park(s) there. I have a feeling that those might top it all.
September 22, 2019 at 23:26
Wow, you did the Cabot Trail properly! Over 30 years ago my dad and I drove it, but we were pressed for time and ended up driving it in two days – not really long enough to see everything. I’m glad you got some nice views, and nice weather. (Before the storm!)
September 23, 2019 at 12:56
I’m sure you saw most of the Cabot Trail in those two days with your dad. At least the scenery. But, yes, to do some hiking and museum visits and other attractions, a slower pace is required. I feel that we rushed a bit as well, but – to be honest – we weren’t too impressed, so moved on to other places, like Prince Edward Island, a bit sooner than planned. This worked out well in regards to the arriving hurricane, as we would not have stayed on Cape Breton during that.
September 23, 2019 at 17:24
You guys are daredevils taking some of those crazy roads. Thankfully, you live to tell and shared beautiful photos of Eastern Canada. 🙂 x
September 29, 2019 at 15:16
I’d do anything for a good story, an amazing experience, and a fabulous photo, Debby. Mark… not so much. 🙂
September 24, 2019 at 12:31
Such a lovely tour of this area of Canada, Liesbet! Fabulous photos! Looks like amazing weather. I always enjoy your images, but I really like the benches in the sunset! Enjoy your time with your parents!
September 29, 2019 at 15:20
The benches in the sunset is one of my favorite photos of Nova Scotia, Terri! I played with it a bit for Instagram, but on this blog, the photos are always unedited (it already takes more than enough time to resize and caption and review and post… :-)). I really ought to post less photos with my blogs, but they are only a fraction of the photos I take. I have a hard time making selections.
Yes, the weather hasn’t been too bad (in my opinion) and one of the nice things about traveling and living the way we do is that we can often plan our bigger or more special sightseeing days around a sunny day.
So far so good on the trip with the parents! Thanks for the well wishes.
September 24, 2019 at 15:03
Hi Liesbet,
Dan and I have been to Cape Breton twice…once by car and the other time cruising Bras d’Or in our sailboat. Both times were quite memorable. We also went to Meat Cove…did you see the planks off to the side over the cliff on the road as you make your way up??? Want to make sure you don’t have too much to drink when parking THAT night! LOL.
We swam at Cabot Cove beach and went to a ceilidh in Baddeck. We loved both trips for different reasons. Sailing was neat because the tides are only 6 inches and the water stays pretty warm – for that part of the world! Totally loved your photos, they were like a trip down memory lane.
September 29, 2019 at 15:25
Hi Nancy!
I’m so glad you are liking these posts and photos and that they bring back nice memories. And, no, we didn’t see those planks in Meat Cove…
Visiting Cape Breton by sailboat must be such an awesome experience. I just read some posts and comments on the Women Who Sail Who Write Facebook page about women (potentially) sailing Nova Scotia and asking for tips. As I got ready to weigh in, I realized that – really – I have nothing to say or suggest, because sailing those waters is so very different than traveling the area in a camper van. As I read what others posted, I craved to be there in a boat and experience the Maritimes from the water. Only in the height of summer, though!!! 🙂
September 26, 2019 at 09:39
We love Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail. As your photos show, the scenery is stunning there. Wonderful that you found free camping. I guess with five kids in tow and a pop-up camper attached to our van, it would be close to impossible for us to have done so. I always enjoy reading of your adventures, Liesbet. All best to you!
September 29, 2019 at 15:28
I agree, Victoria! With a large family (and/or a larger vehicle) more planning and more reliable campgrounds would be advisable, especially when we park in small parking spots for the night. That being said, we have met families (usually in converted school buses) with 2-5 children who boondock almost everywhere they go. This, of course, is easier and more enjoyable out west.
September 26, 2019 at 11:11
What great boondocking sites. Good to know there is lots of free camping in Nova Scotia. Too bad about the “pile” at your almost perfect camping spot. I think some people just don’t know any better – I’ve made piles in the woods when I was younger but at least I did it away from our campsite.
What a great trip into Canada so far! I am so itching to get back on the road – just one more week!
September 29, 2019 at 15:31
I hear you about the piles, Duwan. The unfortunate thing is that this one was probably left by other boondockers – who should be adults and have experience camping – which is really sad! And, less than a foot where anyone would park,
I can’t believe you’re almost back on the road! Let us know what your plans are, whenever they exist! And, yes, I think one of these summers (maybe the next one already???), you should head into Nova Scotia!
September 28, 2019 at 07:23
I was wondering if you would do the Cabot Trail. Sorry to hear about the disappointment of campers leaving waste behind and glad to hear of your good experiences such as free overnight parking and of course the gorgeous views.
September 29, 2019 at 15:34
We actually had never heard of the Cabot Trail until we first read about Cape Breton, Sue! Our highlight of that area was still the National Park (you know us! :-)), as we always seem to gravitate to and enjoy being in nature. Being able to easily camp everywhere for free was such a nice bonus!!
October 2, 2019 at 06:31
Sounds lovely–except for the human waste part. Ick! Some people are so gross.
Meat Cove is definitely not the typical Maritimes name.
October 2, 2019 at 13:09
Meat Cove doesn’t sound cute or quaint at all, doesn’t it? I guess I have touched on a couple of less appealing/appetizing aspects of this trip we made. 🙂
November 1, 2019 at 13:45
I used to know someone who grew up on Cape Breton, and she was bilingual in Gaelic and English. Many of the the original inhabitants, including her grandparents, spoke Gaelic, apparently.
Jude
November 2, 2019 at 20:26
Hi Jude! We saw a lot of Gaelic signs and read that this part of Canada still has strong Gaelic roots, as well as a big presence First Nations.